{"title":"/Welding/ Welding General #2","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763067,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"A place for anything to do with Welding.
Post your welds, ask questions and discuss sticking metals together.
IDK I just want a place to talk about welding.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1708736163458498.jpg","filename":"IMG_2172.jpg"},"posted":1708736163},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763166,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
>hey will you come weld some gussets
>we have everything, just head over
>it'll be cake
grab little inverter and a handful of rod because i know they're lying
drive over
>oh yah there on that beam 15 ft up
>already cut plates, but guessed on the length and used old scrap shit
>manlift controls are acting up, i'll run it from the ground for you
>here's the supples
>box of 6011 that looks like it came over on the mayflower
>let's do this.jpg
>about 9pm packed up and went home
nobody wants to take pictures of the welds they lay while hanging out of a manlift, welding over a ragged torch cut 1/2" gap. not my prettiest, but i can sleep at night and the check cleared","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1708752470483482.jpg","filename":"20240223_210951.jpg"},"posted":1708752470},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763166
At least they put them in. Looks structural even though I’m not exactly sure what they’re for.","attachment":null,"posted":1708753609},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763660,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
Can't get job as CDL driver, making a hot switch to welding. Hitting a school for the certs 'cause Canada is a red tape country. 7 weeks for CWBs+AWS certs. I want to focus on autobody and frame welding - I want to end up working repairing semi trailers, car frames, and assorted welding repair and fabrication on motorcycles/cars. I have experience with fab, but not with laying proper, professional quality welding. Am I a fucking idiot?","attachment":null,"posted":1708832284},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763166
When you say 'little inverter' you mean runs on 120vAC and about the size of a suitcase?
I saw one from the same vendor, that was really small. 1/4 of what I just described.
The only welding I did was stick, years ago. Before inverters were a thing. The football one seems like it'd be ok for tiny jobs but not much else.
I want to get into it, but like anything else, it's a funds and budget vs utility thing. Not to the general utility of welding, but the specific utility of it right now, in the scheme of what is going on.","attachment":null,"posted":1708844271},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763816,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763660
>Am I a fucking idiot?
No, everything you wrote seems reasonable and straightforward. How old are you?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1708875218604018.png","filename":"potatoes.png"},"posted":1708875218},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763844,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763175
Nta but structural engineer, looks like the bolted down piece goes right somewhere off camera, basically there's no good shear using the w beam like that since it's super short and not attached to anything on the other end, the gusset adds shear so it can't easily be torn off","attachment":null,"posted":1708880396},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763865,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763175
i'm not sure exactly what the guy was thinking. it's the hanger for the beams that his bridge crane runs on, so i think he wanted to counter horizontal axial loading
>>2763702
it's an esab 180 that will run on either 120 or 240v. it'll do about 80a on 120v/15a for most of a rod before it pops the breaker","attachment":null,"posted":1708884098},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763918,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763844
I could probably tear it off I'm pretty strong","attachment":null,"posted":1708892729},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2763936,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
I've got a piece of cast iron that I need to build up with weld material. Would prefer to just weld on some extra material normally but there isn't access to do it that way (small part). I've got some nickel rod but I don't think there's enough to do what I need, and some "regular" welding rod, can't remember the grade.
if building up cast iron with weld bead is it a bad idea to lay down a layer of nickel rod, then build on top of that with regular rod, or could that make it more likely to crack? Naturally I'd preheat the piece, but not got much experience mixing metals like this. The weld material I'm adding will have holes drilled into it and tapped, so will need to be able to hold a moderate load without peeling off.","attachment":null,"posted":1708895755},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764046,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there a way to assess a welder like this aside from plugging it in? Iirc they are basically a giant transformer, so can you just test continuity across the inputs and outputs?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1708910344835874.jpg","filename":"IMG_4163.jpg"},"posted":1708910344},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anon here.
2G 6010 root pass, very tough to do.
It’s hard to keep a consistent puddle and to burn the keyhole properly (I have to use elbow movements instead of wrist movements) and I keep getting slag trapped either between the weld or on the backside.
Sometimes the electrode flux also “fingernails” to one side and ends up burning lopsided.
Running 6010 at 75 amperes on about 1/4th inch mild steel with a 1/8th gap and 1/8th land","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1708917514668216.jpg","filename":"IMG_3085.jpg"},"posted":1708917514},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764128,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764100
www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZPRCN2TfJU
www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3J3193PQio
your gap looks brutal. close it up and i bet it gets a lot easier","attachment":null,"posted":1708921694},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764100
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yN1C5BWYQak","attachment":null,"posted":1708921825},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764149,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2763660
I had the d1.1 structural steel cert , very very very boring same thing everyday
Attention to detail having to focus the whole time
I would just pick up gas tungsten that was much much more fun exotic allows like inconel and titanium for race cars and shit
The most boring stick welding I’ve ever had to do was pipes, you do a 6010 root then filler rods like 7018 and it’s so so so fucking boring
I’d rather work fast food than go back to that
What’s new today oh cool another section of pipe, what are we doing tomorrow more pipe oh cool! What are we doing 6 months from now same shit","attachment":null,"posted":1708925417},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764173,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764100
What rod are you running? The welding school where I ran the toolroom got all sorts of donated rod from local contractors plus nicer-running stuff for bend testing. Sampling a variety was fun.
I like Lincoln 5P+ version of 6010 for its smooth arc and a bit less dig, but after you get your technique down weld with crap/old rod for practice on scrap to get comfy since you'll be running what's provided at the jobsite.
For 7018 I like Lincoln of course but ESAB Atom Arc is expensive and worth it. We bought Hobart 7018 for most of the pipe class training because it was cheap but tended to stick.","attachment":null,"posted":1708932168},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764149
What was the best money? If you love TIG do you like/have you done much casting repair?
That can support local automotive machine shops and be very useful to barter if you like to wrench. I bartered fixing their PCs to my machinistbro for choice drops which was magnificent for me and free to him since they were leftovers from customer jobs.","attachment":null,"posted":1708932371},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764387,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763816
Cheers. I'm 26. I've worked in the auto industry for my whole career. Wanted to be a driver, but the market is downright terrible atm where I am, and I want a trade I can work on both sides of the border. I want to work on repairing cars and trucks to dodge the problem >>2764149 brings up: I hate having the same thing to work on every single time in the same place. Would love to work up to mobile welding, but as a start, auto/trailer repair seems to be a good bet to me.","attachment":null,"posted":1708973882},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Weldanon back aka >>2764100
I managed to get most of the penetration on my 6010 root done, so I just have to run 7010 filler beads and cap it off.
I might do another practice plate later, I think I’m getting the hang of it. I’ll post more photos of me finishing the filler welds.","attachment":null,"posted":1709073464},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764985,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764983
Forgot to post image fuck me.
Here’s the root pass without any filler beads","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709073536339027.jpg","filename":"IMG_3092.jpg"},"posted":1709073536},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2764992,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764985
And here’s a filler pass, though I went too slow and overfilled it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709073840240484.jpg","filename":"IMG_3093.jpg"},"posted":1709073840},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765019,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764985
too cold and too long of an arc. turn it up to 80-85 and jam the rod in the vee like you're truing to snuff it out. use a fairly steep drag angle in the direction of travel.","attachment":null,"posted":1709076360},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764985
>>2765019
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bZPRCN2TfJU reposting bad link because you obviously didn't watch it","attachment":null,"posted":1709076949},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764985
please recognise that you've made garbage here and that it's still garbage under the filler pass.
root was fixable with grinding but then you kept going and made it into an arc gouging job.","attachment":null,"posted":1709077666},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765078,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765033
Arc gouging is a great skill to learn too so op just keeps the good times rolling on this welding journey. Or he cut his coupon and bent it already and is standing there with the ???? face looking at the enormous crack.
Either lesson is good.","attachment":null,"posted":1709084629},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765080,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764046
Usually the real old outside too long turds end up with the transformer steel laminate rusting under the enamel coating and if it's real bad it will short somewhere.","attachment":null,"posted":1709084836},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765101,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2764174
Most money I ever made was working in an office real estate and my dad was the registered broker I worked under
60k for a months work and just fucked around rest of the year","attachment":null,"posted":1709086531},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765029
Gave it a watch and it’s the same exact technique I’m trying to replicate with the keyhole burn technique and the 1/8th 6010 electrode at 75 amperes.
I was only running about 72 amperes with a 1/8th gap, and I wasn’t welding in the 3G position as shown in the video so it isn’t as easy to stack the bead using gravity.
2G means HORIZONTAL, which is the groove V facing towards you as shown in picrel.
But I’ll try jamming the rod as much as I can, and trying to not get too long of an arc.","attachment":null,"posted":1709097840},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765180
go back to padding beads on flat plate for awhile. i doubt your 1G roots are even close. you haven't figured out how to read the puddle.
tighten the gap to 3/32 or less. 1/8 gap is a disaster if your green. no different than the 3rd coupon in the video. vertical do not make it easier as you have to control the heat to keep the puddle from falling out the front","attachment":null,"posted":1709099651},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm in the final stretch of a 4 week welding class, thoughts on this weld? I had like zero knowledge of the metalworking environment or tools prior to starting.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709100235429698.jpg","filename":"20240227_215718.jpg"},"posted":1709100235},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765191","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709100269538419.jpg","filename":"20240227_215725.jpg"},"posted":1709100269},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765192
And the instructor cut it to show the inside","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709100314155359.jpg","filename":"20240227_215732.jpg"},"posted":1709100314},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765197,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">4 wk class
that's a pretty short time. don't expect to have it all figured out by the end
>>2765191
too slow of travel. you want a flat bead profile, not humped up
>>2765192
again slow, but better consistency. the heat built up because you were going too slow and caused the bead profile to change. you might have changed gun angle as you moved across the joint. it's all about consistency. you want to be rigid but smooth in your movements. always do a dry run before you strike an arc to make sure you can comfortably run the entire joint without an awkward shift
>>2765193
looks fine. you welded. it helded","attachment":null,"posted":1709101021},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765197
Yeah the positioning is the thing I struggle with the most. I had a problem early on where I would get tired as I progressed through the weld and start to slump on the second half, but I've been correcting that in the more recent classes. But I still haven't found a sweet spot for how to position myself, so I often have to shift slightly while moving.","attachment":null,"posted":1709101742},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Right handed training for TIG, having trouble with 6G pipe, I nail one side without an issue from top to bottom but the opposite side is like I've never held a torch.
Anyone got any tricks for walking/wiggling/whatever the cup in weird positions on root and other passes?","attachment":null,"posted":1709141254},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765479,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
How do I acquire one of these Finnish welding machines in the US?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709156677703238.jpg","filename":"miglet.jpg"},"posted":1709156677},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765479
>file name
kek","attachment":null,"posted":1709157726},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2765762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765479
migger?","attachment":null,"posted":1709203695},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2766201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
Is there any way to buy from Lawson products without setting up a company account? I just want some xtractalloy rods for fucks sake.","attachment":null,"posted":1709267004},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2766457,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've decided to buy a Tig machine made by Jasic, it's the most quality I can get for my money and probably the most I need since I don't run a factory. The choice comes down to either buying the analog or digital version;
https://www.jasic.co.uk/tig202a-analog-inverter
https://www.jasic.co.uk/tig-202d-digital-pulse-inverter
I personally like the analog just because it's cheaper and looks cooler than the dig, otherwise from what I see, the only things missing are the upslope, DC pulse duty cycle (fixed at 50-50) and arc force setting which I hope turns off automatically when you switch from SMAW to GTAW.
Any other things I should look for? Those I've listed don't seem like an issue for me except the arc force, I like it on stick but won't need in in tig","attachment":null,"posted":1709317650},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2767961,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2766457
Potentiometers are easier to replace than trying to find and fix the microprocessor and upslope is generally useless, just hang out at the start of your weld for a second longer and you have the preheat, or use a pedal if you really need it.
It appears the analog machine doesn't even have the arc force function which isn't an issue because of the high enough open circuit voltage needed for 7018, 6013s can be run on anything but realistically you're buying a full tig machine so stick welding shouldn't be the main concern","attachment":null,"posted":1709577023},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768083,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hello /welding/
I have no experience in welding but I've been encountered several projects where it would be handy if I could weld something myself instead of hiring someone. How much of a time/money investment is it to learn how to weld? I always hear welders complaining about shitty welds so I assume that welding isn't retard-proof - is welding something that I can pick up as an auxiliary side thing or is it something that requires a lot of dedicated hours in order to reach a usable level?
If it makes a difference, my prospective use cases are for aluminum and stainless steel.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709596928050413.jpg","filename":"1690507076242385.jpg"},"posted":1709596928},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768083
4000 dollars and about 100 hours.
i've pulled this number directly out of my ass. i took reasonable numbers and multiplied them by ten, to account for how retarded you probably are.
you asked 4chan for help so i'm assuming that you don't own any tools, not even a screwdriver, you don't have a car, you want to do welding inside your rented fourth floor apartment. you probably think you can get metal for free.","attachment":null,"posted":1709614332},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768232,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768083
Watch the fabrication series, weld com, Tim welds and Jody on YouTube, their content will cut your costs and frustration down. I'm self taught on a small inverter and learned quickly because I knew a lot of theory and mistakes to avoid.
Welding isn't retard proof but isn't a hard skill to aquire these days when you have a ton of free information online. It used to be hard for your dad or grandpa because all they had back then was the school or a local welder who might have told them something if he felt like it, plus the machines were shit back then and costed a fortune","attachment":null,"posted":1709623167},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've realized that walking the cup is useless unless you're dead flat on the pipe. No idea why everyone forces it as if it were the only way to weld, too sharp of an angle, oxidation right in front of your puddle and you weld over it, too much chance of contaminating the tungsten or work, pretty much impossible to do on the bottom
> inb4 practice
Yeah, when you start getting paid for it.
I also get undercut on the cap pass lately, but didn't get a straight explanation of why it happens and how to prevent it, I tried all ranges of amperage","attachment":null,"posted":1709658329},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768369,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768362
>undercut straight explanation
there isn't enough metal.
put more.","attachment":null,"posted":1709659590},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768369
It just creates a hill with undercut on the sides. I could try cooling the pipe to as low as room temperature if that's a possible issue but I'm out of ideas. The instructors don't give useful info on walking the cup or freehanding, they basically expect your brain and muscles to work like software","attachment":null,"posted":1709660293},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768372
Also, the only setup they have is fixed neck 17 torch with handle trigger, I saw the pros on the interwebs use flex heads and whatnot which make positioning easier, our torches are good for flat welds only I guess","attachment":null,"posted":1709661069},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768372
look at the puddle.
>>2768376
don't be that guy.","attachment":null,"posted":1709668237},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2768864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768438
They told me the test is gonna be with a 2 inch pipe, I'll keep things simple and freehand the entire thing, 2 cover passes. It's gonna look like a gas weld but idc, that's how grandpa used to do it, tig basically is oxy acetylene welding but with electricity","attachment":null,"posted":1709764526},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769460,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"These are my shitty 6010 uphill roots. I have a rape fetish.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709873225006488.jpg","filename":"IMG_4649 - Copy.jpg"},"posted":1709873225},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765374
Man its just tough, just stand there and try any twister combo you can think, torch held like a hammer, a pen, or by a back cap, ive looked like a retard but i make sure im comfortable moving along joints in weird spots, get most comfortable where your hands would be half way through the weld then contort to your start and stop, one simple way to get a good off hand side is to just lean your upper body 45 degrees and use your hands like you would welding it 5g, youll be sore after doing this","attachment":null,"posted":1709881513},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just finished making this welding stand to practice welding on different positions, wanted to laser cut the pipe and the 4 inch plates to make it more accurate but no one near me with a laser machine cut round tube.
tomorrow I will start doing some 3F and 4F, we are all going to make it bros.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709886075750676.jpg","filename":"stand.jpg"},"posted":1709886075},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769509,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769507
mechanism is just a notched tube with a hole and a pin that secures it in place. each movable arm, has different angles so i can practice not only verticals and 45°, but a bunch of more angles.
I can share the building blueprints if you want, just give me a good tutorial to learn how to make blueprints in autocad","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709886324865314.jpg","filename":"stand 1.jpg"},"posted":1709886324},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769507
That looks like it will be whippy, as in striking an arc will start it swaying like a extended scissor lift, made a stand like that trying to be cheap, had to triangulate to stop the sway,
>>2769509
On 3f watch out for getting too steep a upward rod angle that usually ends in a nasty saggy underfilled crater
On the 4f use the same amps youd use for 2f and dont let the flux run ahead of the puddle with 7018, thats how you get some sweet burn scars in your forearm crease","attachment":null,"posted":1709887967},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768864
Just freehand everything, walking is bad practice, takes too long to master and can't be used in tight spots which are more common in field than you'd think.
But do practice on various diameters of pipe, not just the one they told you the test is gonna be on, if you don't have a thick pipe at home, use thin walled tubing and run a single bead around it until you get consistency.
Here where we train, we only do 3 passes; root, fill to flush and cap, so I can't tell you anything intelligent regarding the hot pass but I will advise you to use 2 wires during fill pass, the less times you have to burn around a pipe, the less you'll overheat it.
Cap passes can be hard for freehanders but what I do is use a big torch angle, almost like I'm walking and do 2 beads side to side with a smaller diameter wire, circular motion. It does kind of look like a gas weld, takes a few minutes longer but no way to get undercut.
And don't be scared of stopping every few inches to reposition, just restart properly","attachment":null,"posted":1709912459},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709916063846197.jpg","filename":"1708298545944.jpg"},"posted":1709916063},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769674,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769628
Yeah that will work for one bead, sure
Has anyone had ideas of micro Tig welding with lab bench power supply? The ones that go up to 10 amps, I bet you'd need to grind tungsten down to surgically thin needle point","attachment":null,"posted":1709923943},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769674
What are you planning to do mold repair? Filling pitting on old guns? Miniature building with extreme accuracy?, a laser welder would be better","attachment":null,"posted":1709940690},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769783
I already have a tig and do small (not micro) things with it, it was just a thought.
But I saw some jewelers have miniature tigs they use for fixing porosity in rings and other stuff, I think they're lift arc only and are programmed for short pulse","attachment":null,"posted":1709967175},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769872,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I just figured I can make a custom or oversized tig finger from exhaust wrap. It can be cut to length and hand sewn in multiple layers","attachment":null,"posted":1709968192},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769874,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769460
giving or receiving?","attachment":null,"posted":1709969767},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769877,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769867
Oh i think ive seen those used by a guy welding chain mail links for shark armor
Oh an idea, fancy engraving but in reverse, tiny weld beads in scroll work","attachment":null,"posted":1709970711},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769877
2 axis CNC controlled micro tig welder","attachment":null,"posted":1709993260},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there something that will give me a visual confirmation that I turned my argon bottle off? Something like a pressure switch with a red light would be good","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1709994254521452.jpg","filename":"1709994236000.jpg"},"posted":1709994254},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Instead of welding I went into cyber security. Sometimes I feel like I fucked up.","attachment":null,"posted":1709994367},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2769967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769963
Watch the pressure needle drop if it's empty or just try to close the cylinder, why do you need to complicate things? >>2769965
Nobody says you're not allowed to learn welding, I worked as a mechanical engineer for 3 years and got sick of it","attachment":null,"posted":1709994550},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770341,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Time to try and make a heat shield out of this shit, wish me luck boyos.
Header wrap is cheap and seems thick enough to insulate anything","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710059542659154.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240310_093057.jpg"},"posted":1710059542},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770360,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769967
I want a visual confirmation that I remembered to close the cylinder, so I can just look into the shop if I get called away on short notice.","attachment":null,"posted":1710067386},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769963
there are no detectable changes for a pressure sensor to work on.
paint a stripe on your valve.","attachment":null,"posted":1710071414},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2770360
fix the leaks. i have a half dozen shop welders, and have gotten them all to hold at least over night without leaking off the pressure in the regulator and jump hose. it's no big deal then if you leave a bottle on","attachment":null,"posted":1710098989},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770627,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769515
>That looks like it will be whippy, as in striking an arc will start it swaying like a extended scissor lift,
I used it yesterday to practice 1F fillet and lap joints, i use the rest of the arm to support myself and it didn't move, it doesn't really swings at all that way, maybe when i start doing 4F i might encounter that problem, but it is pretty solid","attachment":null,"posted":1710119645},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2770733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2769957
That would need 4 axis, one for arc length, and a axial encoded swivel for filler wire in the direction of travel
Programmed and ran a orbital tig robot so i got an idea of the vairiables required for sound welds
Some youtube guy has tried a 3d printer with a mig gun to make a recognizeble benchy","attachment":null,"posted":1710148205},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771062,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"For filling in a blind hole 3/32" in size, MIG with 75/25 would work fine right?
Doing a pin and weld for a muzzle device on my upper","attachment":null,"posted":1710210849},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771551,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey fellas, any tips on getting started with a welding career from scratch? I finished a 48 hour MIG welding class and i'm planning on taking a stick welding course in April, but in the meantime I wanna try to get my foot in the door somewhere. Thing is, i'm not very good at job searching so I haven't turned anything up yet.
I live near the San Bernardino area of SoCal if that helps.","attachment":null,"posted":1710297725},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771573,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771062
It should work, but TIG would probably produce a more aesthetically pleasing weld.","attachment":null,"posted":1710303442},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to set up a booth at home, any recommendations on small welding table? Do they make them foldable?","attachment":null,"posted":1710308318},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771592,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771587
go pick an ironing board from the trash.
>folds flat
>height adjustable
>fireproof
>free","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710309328901861.jpg","filename":"DSC_1233.jpg"},"posted":1710309328},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771592
I'm too new to welding to know if this is a joke or not.","attachment":null,"posted":1710309744},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771594
i've seen torch gouges taken out of anvils, grinders run deep into vice jaws, arc strikes on lathe ways, a plasma cutter go through a forklift tine.
apprentices should start on garbage!","attachment":null,"posted":1710315385},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771614,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771610
>i've seen torch gouges taken out of anvils, grinders run deep into vice jaws, arc strikes on lathe ways, a plasma cutter go through a forklift tine.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710316369937299.jpg","filename":"632c7c47ce9df1ba752e5254a4cdc6da.jpg"},"posted":1710316369},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771645,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765374
>Anyone got any tricks for walking/wiggling/whatever the cup in weird positions
Learn to weld freehand and left-handed. At some point, try welding via inspection mirror.","attachment":null,"posted":1710327099},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771647,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768376
>fixed neck 17 torch with handle trigger
Every single manual TIG welder at my workplace uses this setup. There are some alternate torches around for reaching into odd places, but the need for those is rare. Keep in mind that "fixed neck" torches use a small copper pipe in the neck for the structure (and electrical/gas connection), and copper is flexible. You can bend the neck pretty far if needed. Just don't bend it back and forth (which will break the pipe). A slight bend "back" is usually reasonable for most tasks, but if you have multiple torches around, having a selection of bend angles can be good to have.","attachment":null,"posted":1710327598},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768362
>too much chance of contaminating the tungsten or work
Use a shorter stickout. Walking the cup on small pipe can be done with the sort of stickout you'd use for welding a fillet, but it goes a lot better with a short stickout. Like maybe 1/8" for the cover pass on 2" pipe.
>I also get undercut on the cap pass
Heat buildup is a factor. Turn amps down to reduce the tendency for undercut. The proximal issue is insufficient puddle control. At each side, aim the torch to the side, and dab the filler at the edge of the puddle. Maintain a tight arc. Move quickly to the other side of the puddle and repeat. Lower amperage until you can control the puddle sag and produce a good profile.","attachment":null,"posted":1710328193},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771692,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I drag cut with a cheap plasma cutter? All my parts look like they were chewed out by a beaver","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710340714833364.png","filename":"1710340687754.png"},"posted":1710340714},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771703,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771692
That's kinda just the way the tool is; at my workplace we used to have a CNC plasma cutter, everything cut got passed through an automated sanding conveyor.","attachment":null,"posted":1710344464},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771712,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771703
How does this guy get his cuts so smooth then? Is he just using an expensive cutter?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMlNYn7dpew","attachment":null,"posted":1710345515},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771592
>>2771594
I used an ironing board when I started out, just burn or grind the paint off. It's still useful for small parts if you can stabilize it","attachment":null,"posted":1710352008},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771766,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hi, can anyone help me assemble this? The torch head didn't come with any diagrams, spare parts or fittings but I did some blowing and figured out 3 is for argon while 1 and 2 are for water.
I only have a plain ground lead and separate hoses, is it possible to attach or solder a lug somewhere and clamp the hoses with wire?
Multimeter shows continuity between all 3 pipes except the circles part.
Also, I don't have the dedicated water cooler, I'll use a submersible pump and a bucket","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710352796816200.jpg","filename":"torch20.jpg"},"posted":1710352796},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771776,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771712
The cutter is sort of midrange, but the cut quality is due to smooth, fluid movements (as he explains in the video) and using cut templates (as also explained in the video).","attachment":null,"posted":1710354268},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771766
You can use hose clamps for 2/3. For 1, I'd get a female coupling and a male hose barb. A ground lug can be soldered to the coupling. If you want to use a standard handle, this will have to be very slim.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710355056954675.jpg","filename":"WP-20F.jpg"},"posted":1710355056},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771786,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771766
use a coaxial wire like god intended","attachment":null,"posted":1710355225},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771790,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771776
Well they ain't working for me. The tip keeps sticking to the metal when it gets hot. His torch has a more conical tip compared to my cylindrical tip, I thought that might have something to do with it","attachment":null,"posted":1710355893},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771792,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771784
It can fit inside a thin handle without issue, I tried it, I can even make a lug out of drilled and bent copper plate but the main problem is the thread, I couldn't find a barb adapter with a coupling this small anywhere I looked.
The only other way would be using a tap on a bigger one or clamping a hose to that part as well and soldering the cable directly to pipes","attachment":null,"posted":1710356109},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771793,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771790
Do you have a drag tip?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710356167347605.jpg","filename":"dragcuttingshield_vs_nozzle_300x150.jpg"},"posted":1710356167},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771795,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771792
Or >>2771786","attachment":null,"posted":1710356247},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771804,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771792
>>2771795
Another thing I don't get is why the connections and cables you're supposed to use with 20 style torches are so small, it being water cooled means it should handle up to 250 amps which would destroy thin gauge cable","attachment":null,"posted":1710358050},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771804
remember that you're water cooling the cable as well as the torch.","attachment":null,"posted":1710358627},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771818,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771812
I guess the heat dissipates from the entire cable since the connection is cooled rapidly and copper is a good heat conductor. Does the flow orientation matter? I think I'm supposed to pump the cold water through the shorter pipe that's got electrical contact","attachment":null,"posted":1710358979},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771879,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771793
Don't think so. I have one of these. My original question was how to drag cut with a cheap plasma cutter. I thought maybe there is a standard size of torch heads and / or drag tips","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710371587391898.jpg","filename":"1710371498228.jpg"},"posted":1710371587},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771945,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i may be a welder, but at least i have alzheimers","attachment":null,"posted":1710383957},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I keep fucking up on the vertical v-groove test.
As soon as I restart in the middle, I loose control of the puddle and everything goes sideways.","attachment":null,"posted":1710393764},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771879
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223594553071
You can also make it at home","attachment":null,"posted":1710396584},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2771992,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768362
Literally skill issue
Start with wider diameter pipe small pipe is harder to roll on","attachment":null,"posted":1710397083},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772008,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Any tips on passing AWS certification? I'm not sure what to memorize for the closed book portion.","attachment":null,"posted":1710406228},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772010,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771818
>Does the flow orientation matter?
Yes. The cold water keeps the electrical path cold, which minimizes resistance, which minimizes additional heat deposited in the conductor.","attachment":null,"posted":1710407791},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772011,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771879
>I thought maybe there is a standard size of torch heads and / or drag tips
These all vary by brand, with some brands having multiple lines of consumables for different purposes. Unless you have one made specifically to work with another company's consumables, you'd need to see what the manufacturer offers.","attachment":null,"posted":1710407985},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771989
I think you're right, I'll have to DIY something. The roller spacers don't work so well though, I've had best results with templates cut out of 12mm fiberboard.","attachment":null,"posted":1710412434},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772016
Place a hose clamp around the cup and lean it against angle iron if you're cutting straight lines, that's how they cut with acetylene torches","attachment":null,"posted":1710420838},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772093,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772038
Thanks","attachment":null,"posted":1710429429},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772103,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772010
Alright, that makes sense, I have to create an electrical connection on the threaded part and find a way to secure a hose to it. I tried using a wire but it didn't work well, plus I'm out of ideas on how to connect a lug securely. No luck with the fitting and adapter, nobody has something this small","attachment":null,"posted":1710431350},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772103
Or >>2771786","attachment":null,"posted":1710440357},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772103
it's time to swallow your pride and buy the off-the-shelf parts.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710441220452405.jpg","filename":"45V03SF_Connections_2_1200x1200.jpg"},"posted":1710441220},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772223,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772188
I'd do it if any was available near me, I don't have a dedicated water cooler anyway so this is bound to be a frankenstein whichever way you turn it
I'll use the 26 torch I got with my machine, it's not bad quality but I'll learn to hate it quickly","attachment":null,"posted":1710447659},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772239,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772223
Use a pressure washer adapter, it's got a female imperial thread, slide the hose over the slick part and clamp it down","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710449732856624.jpg","filename":"karcher.jpg"},"posted":1710449732},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772257,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Both dinse 35-50 connectors but one is shorter, does this cause any issues?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710453268592146.jpg","filename":"53idbsnqi1krfika.jpg"},"posted":1710453268},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772257
the peg engages a spiral groove in the socket, so if it locks in when you turn it, it's good enough.
but man, the chinese will cut *every* corner.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710482843898552.png","filename":"Capture.png"},"posted":1710482843},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771614
kek underrated post","attachment":null,"posted":1710545644},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772801,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Which AC balance are you all using? I'm testing a new tig machine and everything works perfectly until I start doing anything with AC, the controls are analog and the balance wheel goes from 1 to 10 which is the percentage I guess and the area between 40 and 50% percent is factory marked as recommended.
I seem to remember everyone saying keep the balance at 25-30% on the positive, but I've tried all ranges and haven't seen much difference with the cleaning action, tungsten just gets dull like you'd expect but doesn't disintegrate wherever I set the balance. Gas lens do help but I won't always have them available and I've seen people work without them no issue.
This is probably my fault as I'm new to alooominum welding and the machine has no issues otherwise","attachment":null,"posted":1710578421},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772803,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772801
i've never turned it down from maximum cleaning action. i wish there was a setting above maximum.
instead of a dial it should be a switch with two positions: fuck and FUCK.","attachment":null,"posted":1710579264},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772804,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772803
Kek, I learned tig from youtube and everyone I watched said if you use too much of a positive cycle the electrode with explode. It didn't happen to me, no balling either the needle just gets dull and starts looking like a used pencil tip.
I do see the oxide being broken up and puddle starts looking like a mirror so the function does work, just not as consistently","attachment":null,"posted":1710579637},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772805,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772804
Also, does anyone even use green tungsten now? I have a few electrodes but I've seen mixed opinions, some say don't use it on inverter welders while charts classify it as perfect for AC","attachment":null,"posted":1710579886},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772801
A higher electrode negative balance puts more heat on the metal, while a higher positive balance scrubs oxide better. The optimal balance depends on how much cleaning the metal needs, with only that much positive. In my experience, cleaning can get sketchy below 30% positive or so on cleaned mill 6000 series aluminum. Duty cycle drops fast with more electrode positive balance, especially with air-cooled torches. I generally set it at 70% negative and tune from there if needed.
>>2772804
>if you use too much of a positive cycle the electrode with explode
Electrode positive current puts most of its heat on the electrode, which severely reduces the duty cycle a given size of electrode can handle. Rather than exploding, it generally melts the tip into a ball that makes it hard to control the arc well.
>>2772805
Green (pure) tungsten has a higher melting point than the various doped options, which lets it run hotter and handle more electrode positive current. But it's nicer to use a larger, sharper electrode that's not on the edge of melting, and other formulations handle lower operating temperatures better. They're still usable for AC, but others are better these days.","attachment":null,"posted":1710585888},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772826
Alright, thanks for the explanation. I have a ton of gold electrodes 1.5% lanthanum I think so I'll try with them, I've done some digging and apparently the green tungsten is made for sinewaves on old machines, not inverters we have today which output squarewave voltage. Mine is the latter and the manual says the 1-10 scale is the % of positive cycle so I'll keep it around number #3.
Am I wrong about the amperage? Some recommend higher current than what is used on steel but it destroys the piece quickly in my case so I kept it at 30 amps per millimeter.","attachment":null,"posted":1710591675},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772860,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772845
>Am I wrong about the amperage?
Aluminum conducts heat about 4x as fast as carbon steel (you need more heat input to maintain a puddle), but its melting point is about half as hot, and its heat capacity is about a third lower than steel of equal size (it takes a lot less energy input to melt). So it depends, and is generally more finicky. On large pieces, the increased thermal conduction dominates until you get to an edge, so you need higher amps than an otherwise similar weld on steel. On pieces small enough to entirely heat up, you get massive preheating, and the additional energy needed for the weld puddle can be a lot smaller. It's useful to have a foot pedal or other variable current control, since it lets you set a high current for starting out, and cut it down once the metal gets hot. It's especially useful for reducing cratering at the end of a weld.","attachment":null,"posted":1710593691},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2772894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2772860
That makes a lot of sense, the parts I practiced on were small so they got fried quickly, I didn't use a lot of filler so it didn't even cool the puddle. I have euro torch with a trigger so no foot pedal but I plan on making one at home, will probably ask around here regarding the potentiometer values when I get to it.
Thanks a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1710602572},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773183,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Can you plug the hole of a valve in an air cooled torch neck? I have a 17V torch I used when I only had scratch start but now I have a big boy machine and don't want to throw the torch out, the valve is annoying and in the way","attachment":null,"posted":1710662994},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's the cheapest decent 120v MiG welder?
I don't intend to use anything but fluxcore","attachment":null,"posted":1710667235},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2773196
https://youtu.be/zUHyZhYOOKU?feature=shared
His tests are also about penetration and stuff like that which is mostly due to user error","attachment":null,"posted":1710684625},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2773280
>arc/wirefeed stability and limited parameter ranges do not affect "penetration and stuff like that"","attachment":null,"posted":1710707147},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2773183
just buy a non valved torch head if it bothers you that much. decent knockoffs are under $20","attachment":null,"posted":1710711641},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773660,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have a tig setup
Trying to get back into it after a couple year hiatus
What are some neat art projects or gifts I could make?","attachment":null,"posted":1710752614},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2773815,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2773660
SS diamond","attachment":null,"posted":1710782287},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
Can I use SMAW rods for oxy fuel welding? Presumably by smashing the flux off first, though I wonder if it would make a difference.
Gotta weld some thin shit and don't want to make a run into town just for some rg45 rod. Also, curious if anyone's tried it.","attachment":null,"posted":1710808852},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774053,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774017
No reason you couldn't","attachment":null,"posted":1710814836},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I just got into learning tig and it's way way easier than what people say, yeah I contaminate my electrode sometimes but it's not a big deal
> can see everything, no sparks or smoke
> full control, can add wire if I want and decide how much
> all welds penetrate
> even the worst welds look nice
Tig is the shit
I saw some extensions for sale in a shop near me, gas lens, do they make a difference or save gas? Are they worth buying? Because they're bigger than normal cups and cost more","attachment":null,"posted":1710829415},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774132
>gas lens, do they make a difference or save gas?
They give better gas coverage. You can turn the gas flow down for similar coverage, or use a higher flow to do things you can't with a normal cup, like using an extremely long electrode stickout to get into an awkward place.
>Are they worth buying?
Yes, if you regularly weld and/or have situations that need improved gas coverage. They are also more prone to damage (they do last a while, but it does happen), so you should keep a spare handy.","attachment":null,"posted":1710837386},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774153
Thanks, I saw welders on yt shilling them for stainless but I didn't see the point since you can wire brush and grind oxidation after you're done","attachment":null,"posted":1710838704},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774132
you can reduce the flow a bit on bigger cups and still get coverage. i don't think a #12 cup could even work without a gas lens.
most of the time you're gonna be using more like a #6 which isn't really flowing much, so you only get the side benefits.
the normal gas lens #6 lets you stick the tungsten out a bit more.
the "stubby" gas lens #6 is a very short cup that still gives ok gas coverage.
in this video they blow smoke instead of argon
https://youtu.be/Zy7YZHbUt3I?t=187","attachment":null,"posted":1710839048},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774161
I used only normal cups 4, 5, 6 and 7 and didn't find a need for anything other than 4. 7 just looks better on the torch kek.
I've also noticed as far as steel that I can get away with using way less argon that is recommended 1 or 2 liters per minute with 4 seconds post flow covers everything and keeps it clean. Overhead would probably get screwed up though","attachment":null,"posted":1710850692},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774204,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm going to make a small fixture table out of laser cut 5mm sheet and am planning to use holes smaller than the ones that are standard, the reason why is because I think 16mm holes will weaken the material too much and pins that large could warp it. Is it a good idea to set 8mm holes at around 4 inch spacing and use allen head bolts as fixture pins? They're big enough to handle force but cheap and you can buy tons of them. If I need to secure something bigger I can use the same bolts to screw in heavy angle iron to the table.
Doing this could cut down the costs since this will be a small table for a home garage.","attachment":null,"posted":1710854350},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Second year apprentice in AB. 2 weeks into doing stick at school","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710857239371735.jpg","filename":"4A4F5D25-4B9E-4F75-94D7-6CF2047CA4ED.jpg"},"posted":1710857239},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774299,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774204
>out of laser cut 5mm sheet
Fixture tables use much thicker material and/or structural bracing to provide stiffness. Unreinforced 5mm can be used to hold something in place, but it won't hold a weldment flat/square as it's welded. Most fixture tables use larger and closer holes than what you're proposing to allow more flexibility, but you're free to do other things if you prefer.","attachment":null,"posted":1710873287},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774311,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774299
I plan on making ribs for it on the underside with the side plates and all that if it makes any difference. I know fixture tables are really thick but mine will be 1/4 or 1/5 of their size","attachment":null,"posted":1710874891},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774569,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774311
>if it makes any difference
Well yes. It would provide vastly more stiffness than the 5mm sheet without any holes at all. Why are you worried about hole size at all?","attachment":null,"posted":1710923962},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774576,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774569
> Why are you worried about hole size at all?
Well for this thing to be functional you'd need a good amount of holes, 2 inch spacing between them for example. If the holes were big like on pro tables it would get dense for thinner steel and essentially turn it into a fence net","attachment":null,"posted":1710925368},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774592,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774576
Do you know how to calculate the stiffness/strength of a structure?","attachment":null,"posted":1710929749},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774604,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774592
No, I'm too dumb for that so I eyeball things mostly","attachment":null,"posted":1710933256},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774604
You could have 1" holes on 2" spacing, and it wouldn't matter enough to care about so long as the bracing is suitable. Depth gives strength and stiffness much more efficiently than using smaller holes in a slab. Do you imagine that the "pro tables" are floppy?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710936043281951.jpg","filename":"truss bridge.jpg"},"posted":1710936043},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774632,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774628
Alright so the most important thing are the side plates and ribs under the table top, small welds and clamping the shit out of it before doing anything?","attachment":null,"posted":1710936236},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774635,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774632
>the most important thing
Is to have proper bracing. See pic related for an example (the underside of a Certiflat table). It needs to resist bending in all directions, which takes something like a box structure.
>small welds and clamping the shit out of it before doing anything?
Better to have the parts snap securely together without welding (held together with clamps/bolts), and set up so that the structural welds will not cause it to distort, as e.g. the Certiflat there does.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710937112228957.jpg","filename":"certiflat.jpg"},"posted":1710937112},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774635
Ok yeah that makes sense, the full plates in the corners give it a lot of rigidity, I'll make something in cad and post it here, thanks a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1710939478},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774756,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774649
>the full plates in the corners give it a lot of rigidity
They're also where the legs attach.","attachment":null,"posted":1710958211},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2774997,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there a reason not to use oxygen hose for agron if it's washed from the inside and not cracked? The hoses they give out with machines are too short unless you keep your cylinder next to the welder. I don't want to mess up my solenoid valve and have a dusty hose laying around","attachment":null,"posted":1711022536},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774997
No problem, used oxygen lines and regulators with a special adapter to purge 12 in stainless pipe from a liquid argon tank","attachment":null,"posted":1711033473},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775057,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774997
i've always used an oxy regulator for my argon because i'm too cheap to buy an argon regulator AND too cheap refill my oxygen.
instead of the oxy hose i use 50ft of 1/8 nylon pipe with pushfit adaptors (b/c cheap) and it works ok. the unused length coils up to practically nothing and i leave it hanging on the bottle.","attachment":null,"posted":1711038623},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775064,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775033
The rubber doesn't shed from inside? I got 1m (3 feet?) of braided transparent hose with my machine and that's too short to be useful with my dumb shop layout
>>2775057
I've got a real regulator, I was just worried about running a "wrong" hose from it to the back of the welder. As far as torches are concerned I've used everything lol I've even had ideas of making a fake CK flex cable out of garden hose and ground wire","attachment":null,"posted":1711039602},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775104,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775064
you're thinking it. i bought a case of western enterprises 5/8 inert gas to npt adapters and put compressed air quick connects on all my welders so i can just use any air hose laying around. i've had 150 ft of chinkshit garbage freight hose strung out running dual shield until the regulator froze up and it didn't make a bit of difference. same for tig welding stainless. leave the cylinder in my pickup and drag hose way back in a building so i didn't have to lug the tank around. no issue","attachment":null,"posted":1711046541},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775104
>you're thinking it.
*over","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711046619726836.jpg","filename":"20231024_194255.jpg"},"posted":1711046619},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775112,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774997
The entire point of argon is that it doesn't react with anything under pretty much any circumstance. You can use any hose you can find and it wouldn't be a problem, as long as it was rated for the pressure.
But if anyone does like >>2775104 did, keep in mind that compressed air connectors can be kind of shitty. There's no hazard using them, it's just that the cheaper ones, especially, tend to leak a bit. Considering a 300CF fill of argon is like $70 now, using crap fittings could end up costing you more than they saved in the first place.","attachment":null,"posted":1711047877},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775144,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775112
I use an extension hose which I hang on my cylinder and it's got a quick disconnect from a compressor, it's made out of rubber oxy hose, works no problem. Never busted a solenoid in a machine, some people told me they handle moisture well and most of it evaporates from the heat of the machine or gets blown out by pressurized argon.
If it's something to worry about, I'd just run a burst of argon on the highest setting through the empty hose before plugging it into the rig","attachment":null,"posted":1711053279},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775112
>quality couplers
absolutely. i run euro high flow cejn 320 series
>>2775144
if you run long hoses, you want smith surge protectors on the machine end. they have a small orifice to keep from getting that hard start puff from the hose acting like a balloon. you can make your own. .026" hole for 20cfh, .032" for 30 cfh, .037" for 40 cfh @ 30psi","attachment":null,"posted":1711055261},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775179,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775161
Mine is 15 feet + 6 feet of what I got with my machine, it's just in case I need to move the machine closer to something I work on which is rarely","attachment":null,"posted":1711057669},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774219
Has anyone got the harbor freight Chicago electric 80 amp welder?
If so, does it output accurate amps?","attachment":null,"posted":1711059608},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Alright guys I need some help, recently I've got my hands on a Chinese Jasic tig and the machine kicks ass, the only thing I hate is the giant torch I got with it so I'm planning to use my old 17 with a foot pedal which I'm going to DIY as well, the reason being is that they're more expensive than they're worth here where I live and importing things takes too long and the customs rape your wallet if they feel like it.
I've ordered the replacement 9 pin plug which I need regardless and the foot controller is going to be a junk guitar or sewing machine pedal.
Which potentiometer value do tig welders use, is it universal? I can't find any useful information but here's the model of my machine https://www.jasic.co.uk/tig202a-analog-inverter","attachment":null,"posted":1711091612},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775321
typically put ground on one end, +5v on the other end and read a voltage between 0 and 5 from the wiper, so they don't care about the actual resistance of the pot.
then just a momentary switch for on/off.","attachment":null,"posted":1711098674},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775345,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775342
You sure about that? I've read the forums and they say millers and lincolns use different ohm values for example","attachment":null,"posted":1711099935},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775345
i don't have time to teach you basic electronics.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711113858213753.jpg","filename":"IMG_20210130_173535.jpg"},"posted":1711113858},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775386
So, theoretically, I can just steal a foot controller from a sewing machine and plug it into the pins?","attachment":null,"posted":1711122492},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've had another idea, what about using an accelerator pedal from any car? They have potentiometers and a micro switch inside them","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711123785287237.jpg","filename":"acc.jpg"},"posted":1711123785},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775452
they are 5v reference, you give it 5v and ground, you receive 0.2v-4.5v linearly as you press the pedal
Some really early ones might be 12v, maybe on bmw","attachment":null,"posted":1711124120},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775469,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775454
Ok got it, this sounds it could work and I hopefully won't blow up the machine.
On/off wires can be found with continuity on a multimeter and the remaining 3 should be 5, 0 and wiper","attachment":null,"posted":1711125664},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775503,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775469
it actually should be two complete separate sensors, so ???, 5va, "wiper"a, 5vb, "wiper"b, gnd
the wipers are inverted too and the differential signal is used by the car ecu to verify proper function of the pedal, obviously improper function could be dangerous so its redundant.","attachment":null,"posted":1711128788},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775503
This is all I have regarding the wiring, I've managed to make an on/off switch on pins 1 and 2 using an arduino button thingy and it didn't get fried yet","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711132016839720.jpg","filename":"torch specs.jpg"},"posted":1711132016},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775637,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775525
Ok so an automotive pedal won't work then","attachment":null,"posted":1711146324},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775861,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"HELP! How do you do uphill mig? I was doing fine in tig and stick and now I just feel like a dumb migger.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711205283292013.jpg","filename":"globs.jpg"},"posted":1711205283},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775877,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775861
your going the wrong way, you want to do downhill since there's no slag to be trapped.
try using a weave if it helps, decrease voltage and wfs by a tad if its still globby so you can deposit slower, uphill tends to make a mess with mig.
I have to do FCAW 3G which is a major pain in the ass (easy to get porosity if you're not at the right distance and since its already angled you naturally fuck up the angle when going upward)","attachment":null,"posted":1711207008},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2775920,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775877
I'm in a welding class, the assignment specifically says 3F Vertical Up beads on 3/16" plates. I offered the instructor a blowjob in lieu of a lab submission, but he said I'm too ugly to get him hard and the only way he can cum is if I piss on him and that's kind of weird. Man, I'm in over my head here, I really need help.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711217424502675.jpg","filename":"1664726436049096.jpg"},"posted":1711217424},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776172,"name":">>455392974","msg":">>2763166
wtf is that watching us??","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711248337782023.jpg","filename":"1000011374.jpg"},"posted":1711248337},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776199,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775877
FCAW S or G? For duel shield 3G I had to keep reminding myself to move the nozzle closer as I went up because your arms naturally pull away as you go up. If you keep that in mind porosity isn't a problem. Then for FCAW-S its just a bitch. You need to take your time with, you get a feel for it eventually.","attachment":null,"posted":1711253363},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How the hell do people eve work with these shit torches?
> Trigger too far away might as well put it on the bottom of the handle
> Shit dexterity, handle too wide to be held in any way except like a mig gun, still not as sturdy as plain slim handles
> Cable too stiff as if you're wrestling a fire hose, can't wrap it around your arm
Homemade or valve neck torches with a lamp switch taped to them are unironically better","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711303007407372.jpg","filename":"0006719_titanium-17f-tig-torch-12ft-with-single-button_58109d31-accb-4d61-9797-03840b1fc628_1024x1024.jpg"},"posted":1711303007},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776199
It’s FCAW dual shield yeah.
Pretty sure the gas is just 75% Argon 25% CO2
But I still hate my welding teacher, always whined about “nooo your heckin attitude why won’t you smile and be my frickin frienderino!!”
He’s threatened me twice or three times at this point with kicking me out of his class. Keeps making us rush our coupons too by not giving enough time to do prep, practice, etc
Only get about 1-2 hours a day to be in the shop anyway so","attachment":null,"posted":1711303572},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776426,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776422
go to the gender clinic and tell them you want to become a man","attachment":null,"posted":1711303622},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776429,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776426
We are supposed to have stiff cables in our pants, not hands","attachment":null,"posted":1711304562},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2776830,"name":"s10fag","msg":">>2763067
ive seen all those slo mo youtube shorts of welding, and finally saw one without any glare and the guy is moving the tip back and forth between the materials with extreme dexterity, am i supposed to be doing this? im just using a gasless flux core on farm equipment","attachment":null,"posted":1711384100},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2777778,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why is there so much smaw videos on yt where they place series of bad tack welds instead of a bead? It's annoying to watch and I'm willing to bet money they're not structurally sound","attachment":null,"posted":1711554560},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2777990,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
I'm gonna weld some cast iron with nickel 55 rods, is there anything i need to worry about other than preheating and cooling slowly? I don't weld with stick much but there aren't any good mig options for cast iron and i don't care for brazing big parts.
It's a wood stove if it matters, I'm gonna fire it up good and hot and wrap a fiberglass blanket around it and let it burn itself out when I'm done.","attachment":null,"posted":1711578188},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777990
run short 1" beads and peen the shit out of them as they cool. wait a few minutes between welding. cast is always 50/50 whether it holds without the dreaded tink crack sound as it cools","attachment":null,"posted":1711602759},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776425
You'll get dual shield soon enough. Wirefeed isn't too bad once you learn how to position yourself and that takes some practice.
As for your teacher that sucks. I got along great with my teacher, we talked about how 9/11 was impossible just as much as we talked about welding. But its just school you're there to learn, gtfo and start making money as soon as possible.","attachment":null,"posted":1711610729},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776830
You'll be fine running a straight enough bead as long as you're not getting porosity. But for it to be a good weld not just a good enough one weaving would help that.
>>2777778
Nearly every weld you'll ever see when you know how to weld will look like shit.","attachment":null,"posted":1711611028},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778268,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
is it worth it? or is brushless a meme and I should just buy a brushed makita/ non hpt metabo variable grinder.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711634930965017.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1711634930},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777990
Do you have a needle scaler? They work great at relieving the stresses from distortion","attachment":null,"posted":1711635466},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778336,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778268
>metabo HPT
Stick with Makita or real Metabo 5 inch corded grinders. They're the standard among pipe welders for a reason. And brushless corded grinders are a meme, there's no reason for a corded tool to be brushless.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711642476060156.jpg","filename":"+_7f79e0478cbd56d04a530d78a74582d8.jpg"},"posted":1711642476},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778268
brushless does give nice speed control, might be worth if this is primarily for a wire wheel.","attachment":null,"posted":1711652628},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778268
I would get one with a trigger and not an on/off switch.","attachment":null,"posted":1711662091},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778646,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2766201
Barring that, how would I go about spoofing a company to order from them?","attachment":null,"posted":1711685617},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2778685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Advanced Tig noob here
The machine I'm using has a pulse option, but it doesn't have a duty cycle setting so all I get is 50% main 50% background at whatever frequency I set
How do I make this work im my favour? It's not a must, I like the regular straight current but having a pulser is neat","attachment":null,"posted":1711699777},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2779501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776422
No respectable welder uses those shit torches that come with the welder although I know guys who prefer thicker handles for walking the cup on pipe.","attachment":null,"posted":1711842558},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2780650,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Damn this thread is dead","attachment":null,"posted":1712061986},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2780805,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780650
another non glamorous job. fire pit for a regular customer's wife's birthday on super short notice. he provided the old pressure tank. had to scounge some mesh off a dead john deere combine in the scrap boneyard for the spark screen lid. delivered with a 12 hrs to spare and he was happy. little bullshit jobs line this keep the wheels greased and the good work coming","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712086048329258.jpg","filename":"fire pit .jpg"},"posted":1712086048},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781224,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780805
Nice work anon
Bullshit jobs are the best, they pay well and don't take a lot of time and your friends will tell everyone you're the go to guy","attachment":null,"posted":1712173632},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I burnt my tit with filler rod and all my welds sucked ass today. My holes need punishment.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712194513121652.jpg","filename":"yum.jpg"},"posted":1712194513},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781385
Normal tig welder","attachment":null,"posted":1712199694},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777990
>good mig options for cast iron
Crown Alloys Royal 44-30 wire worked great for my machinery repair machinistbros who fix ancient cast equipment for the local sausage company (tho after a gear box full of maggots they now require steam cleaning before they touch the parts). I heard about it from aametalmasters posts on weldingweb and Shop Floor Talk where he welded parts like nasty exhaust manifolds without removing them from the engine.
My bros welded test coupons and beat the shit out of them with a sledge to test. They adopted the wire several years ago. I have a roll but haven't gotten around to breaking some test fins on the junk cylinders I scored for practice (I wrench old HDs and Triumphs).
It needs argon shielding gas.","attachment":null,"posted":1712202430},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778268
what is the fucking difference. i have a 15 dollar HF one and ive never looked back...","attachment":null,"posted":1712203654},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781448,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I am a poor fag and my only welding option atm is acetylene... i am starting to get the hang of it but its an art form to get it to look pretty.","attachment":null,"posted":1712203767},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781596,"name":"NKFC","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712240832185441.jpg","filename":"1000000100.jpg"},"posted":1712240832},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781598,"name":"NKFC","msg":">>2781596","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712240937973421.jpg","filename":"1000000103.jpg"},"posted":1712240937},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2781722,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781448
nigga you can get an inverter for price of a single acetylene tank refill","attachment":null,"posted":1712261925},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782329,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781443
Jesus, that shit's like $150 for a #2 roll. You could buy #5 of nickel 99 for that price and still have enough left over for a case of beer.","attachment":null,"posted":1712359202},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781448
If you were a real poorfag, you'd use a chinese shockbox with 6013s","attachment":null,"posted":1712387532},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781596
Yikes, someone PAID for that?","attachment":null,"posted":1712388733},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782951,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2764100
Lower your amps to 45ish and don't use your wrist or elbow but use your whole arm. Put the rod into the keyhole ever so lightly. If done right, the slag won't be a problem.","attachment":null,"posted":1712459684},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've got really good at 6G Tig in school, root and fill no issues but I usually mess up my cap pass when walking, which is preventing me from getting a cert.
Sometimes it's not consistent, sometimes I get undercut, both because I'm too dumb to get the body position right.
We're using small pipes (o.d. is cca 50mm) and are allowed to move them up or down on the stand without rotating.
Any advice?","attachment":null,"posted":1712472799},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2782985,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782982
Forgot to mention this
I didn't take pictures but you can immediately tell which part was the underside when I do it.
From around 4 or 5 o'clock to 8 is when the torch doesn't really cooperate, probably because I hold it backwards in the overhead position.
The rest of the cap pass looks sorta nice without mistakes.","attachment":null,"posted":1712473162},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785007,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bump for welder anons","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712791018827898.jpg","filename":"20240410_161618.jpg"},"posted":1712791018},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785007
Thanks for the bump. Nice track torch","attachment":null,"posted":1712793607},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785007
That looks expensive.","attachment":null,"posted":1712795304},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785049
it was new, but i snagged it at an auction for like $200. it's rack and pinion so it'll cut vertically, but the cut quality is dogshit compared to an airco beetle. you can see the gear teeth finely pantagraphed in the cut as it rattles along","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712806837500268.jpg","filename":"20210519_105542.jpg"},"posted":1712806837},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785378,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782982
wait for the pipe to cool before doing the cap. Thats the most important thing. Welding over hot metal is a great way to get a bunch of undercut.
Also wire brush the weld before you do your cap.
If youre good enough to root a 2 inch pipe properly then you can for sure put a nice cap on it, it just takes practise to weld out of position. I usually freehand anything thats in position and walk the cup when i have plenty of space and can roll the pipe around.","attachment":null,"posted":1712854990},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785696,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785378
Wait, are there guys here who don't clean between each bead?
Man, my job would literally fire me if I didn't hit every single bead with at LEAST a wire brush. Normally it's needlegun and rotary wire brush for everything that's not TIG.","attachment":null,"posted":1712904655},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2785812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785696
Im talking about Tig. Obviously you need to clean the slag off before welding over it but its also good to wire brush any oxidation off when TIG welding.","attachment":null,"posted":1712932862},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785696
I went to a welding school and there were some real retarded mexicans who couldn't grasp the concept of completely removing slag or slag inclusion.","attachment":null,"posted":1713067385},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's the best amperage when welding 16 gauge / 1.6 mm stainless steel. Fusion TIG welding without filler. My welds keep looking bad.","attachment":null,"posted":1713075704},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786501
my crystal ball says your problem isn't amps, it's bad fitup making your weld wobbly and gaptoothed, and no backing gas making the back side sugary and grey.","attachment":null,"posted":1713077477},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786508,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786507
the fitup is good and I can't use backing gas. Either the welds fuses well and looks good but the back side sugars up, or the weld doesn't fuse well but at least the back side doesn't fuse up. Doing T corner welds at 54 amps.","attachment":null,"posted":1713077793},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to make a folding welding table. I have knock off workmate I pulled off the side of the road that was broken, but I pulled the jaws on it and got a useable folding base. I was going to use it as a folding table using a piece of ply on top, but I bought some plastic folding event tables.
I don't know how big it should be, maybe like 2x3 foot or a bit smaller. Where would I find 1/4 plate without being raped and it costing as much as the actual hf folding bench? https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-steel-welding-table-61369.html","attachment":null,"posted":1713146202},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2786871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786842
>Where would I find 1/4 plate without being raped and it costing as much as the actual hf folding bench?
24x36x.250 == 61 lbs
the current price for steel from my supplier is around $2/lb for full sheets. you might get lucky at a scrap yard but most around me want $1-1.25/lb for wrinkly, rusty sheet that's often some shitalloy wear plate that's harder than a whore's heart, so you can't drill it.
buy the garbage freight table, then watch cl, facefuck, and auctions until a deal on a something pops up","attachment":null,"posted":1713150295},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786501
35-40 amps if you want a direct answer and assuming you're new to it. Otherwise you're always better off running stainless on slightly higher amperage and faster travel speed to outrun the haz and oxidation.
Sugaring will always happen on penetrative welds if you don't purge. This can be easily remedied by grinding the backside after the weld or just use borax or 308L flux to shield the backside if gas isn't possible to use","attachment":null,"posted":1713215925},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I need to fix a really bad mig weld that leaks on a few spots. Can I use Tig to wash over this? Grinding it down increases the chance of screwing everything up so I thought about washing over it but need some guidance.
And yeah of course I'll clean everything up before doing anything","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713216206191149.jpg","filename":"uglee.jpg"},"posted":1713216206},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787201
looks like an old 2-stroke expansion chamber, so absolutely fucking not.
just let it leak until you've saved up $50 for a new one.","attachment":null,"posted":1713217791},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787232,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787201
Normally, putting a cover over leaky garbage just results in slowly leaking garbage with a temporary respite. To really fix a problem, it has to come completely out and then get replaced by good weld. If it's an old piece of shit machine that's not going to last much longer anyway, then go for it. It's just not going to work for long.","attachment":null,"posted":1713220024},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787404,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787210
I wouldn't be attempting to fix it if I could find a new one, trust me
>>2787232
So grind it completely off and weld in sections? I'm trying to avoid fabricating an entire new segment because I'm sure I'd fuck something up","attachment":null,"posted":1713258392},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787404
Maybe not completely off if you know where the leaks are. If you can find the fault line, just opening that up enough to get a good amount of fusion between the two parts is enough. Basically your actual weld doesn't penetrate very deeply, so if you can create the conditions to weld deep by actually starting further into the metal, it'll be a much stronger weld. Plus if the fault is still underneath, it'll keep exerting pressure against your shallow cap until it breaks through again.","attachment":null,"posted":1713261634},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2787563,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787421
I ground it relatively flat and can identify only one leak point and I was sure there was more of them, looks like I'll need to do a cap pass on the entire length","attachment":null,"posted":1713281587},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2789155,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is muriatic acid good to strip millscale before welding?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713587176745524.jpg","filename":"1708153822725604(1).jpg"},"posted":1713587176},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2789684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789155
Yes but I wouldn't fuck with it, if you're not in a hurry use vinegar it's gonna do the same job","attachment":null,"posted":1713691823},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2789940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"let's keep bumping this so it reaches 300 and we don't have to see OP's face any more","attachment":null,"posted":1713738295},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2789941,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bump","attachment":null,"posted":1713738355},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2790362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do you deal with an asshole coworker?
>I am sorta moving up and working more with the engineering team
>still hourly but I no longer report to the floor supervisor
>he still handles my pay roll
>stay late Friday trying to finish a project
>don't finish, so I show up an hour early today because I want to get it moved out of the way of the other welders so they can use the space, it isn't normal production work
>he tells me I shouldn't be showing up early
>he says everyone there has been asking for over time but he's been told not to give it to anyone
>tells me I'm going to start offending others
>just tell him I understand
Should I have told him fucking get over it or am I over reacting? It's constant with this guy. Later that day I went to look at a station to see what we had set up there and I guess he was watching on the cameras because he finds me and tells me I don't need to be messing with stations. I'm about to take a prybar to his head if the boss doesnt get him to fuck off","attachment":null,"posted":1713821935},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2790386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790362
he sounds like average midwit middle management material. he lives to hassle people and act like he's important. odds are you won't win. hope he jumps ship for more money elsewhere or you do the same
remember, no good deed goes unpunished and the only reward for a job well done is more work","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713826797715378.jpg","filename":"20231226_170247.jpg"},"posted":1713826797},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2790629,"name":"s10fag","msg":"i have an old penske truck, it has 3" box hitch welded to the frame instead of a receiver, its a 2" ball welded to the hitch and its too low for my trailer
is a HF Titanium 125 flux core going to have the penetration to put a 2" receiver in place without my welds breaking going 65 down the hwy with 5k behind me","attachment":null,"posted":1713884238},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2790723,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790629
no.","attachment":null,"posted":1713896296},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790629
The classic combination for hobby use is a little wire welder for sheet metal and a transformer stick machine (AC is fine) with 6011 cellulosic rods. You do need to practice (not on your workpiece, that's the usual mistake) and destructively test samples so you know you can repeatably make sound welds. Most new welders fail to practice and fail to ensure clean metal (flap disc on an angle grinder does nicely).
If not sure you can cut and fit the new parts then use the wire welder to tack them and take the result to someone who can properly finish the job. Most time spend is cutting and fitting, not welding so even if you had to pay that saves a bunch.","attachment":null,"posted":1713980062},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791479,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790362
Yeah I think this Friday is my last day, otherwise it's next Friday.
>yesterday he comes and finds me in the shop
>he has the CEOs assistant with him
>he tears into for adding a part to the system wrong
>he tears into me for not telling him the order went through and needs to be added to production
>he tears into me for not telling him we already have material for the part, because he was about to order some more. Even though it's his job to check
>argue with him that I didn't do either of those things and how was I supposed to know he just orders material without checking to see if we have some stocked
>tell him the CEO put the part into the system because I was in training the day it was added
>he eventually fucks off
>the CEOs assistant apologizes to me and says she was the one who processed the order and forgot to tell him
>I tell her not to apologize, that's just how he is. Then walked off without going into more detail since I really don't trust her
>a few minutes later he comes out to apologize to me
>he asks if I felt like I was being accused
>when I tell him yes he tells me to explain why I thought he was accusing me
>I just "yeah" my way though the conversation so he fucks off
>CEOs assistant smiles at me later because she probably thinks she helped me by getting him to apologize
>later that day I make a little mistake in the shop
>told him about it when I shouldn't have
>he tells me "why don't you go back into the office, we want you somewhere that you might perform better so you can succeed"
>the decision to get me involved in office work was not up to him
>no one even bothered to tell him I was no longer in production, he yelled at me for coming in an hour late after I was switched to office hours
>tell him I want to stay involved in production
>he says we can go talk to the CEO and see what he wants
>tell him no
I just can't do this anymore. I applied for a production position at another place.","attachment":null,"posted":1714042631},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791581,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791479
godspeed anon. hope you get on at the new gig and it doesn't suck as bad","attachment":null,"posted":1714065005},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791678,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791581
Nvm. The head of the engineering department actually heard the tantrum this guy was throwing and went straight to the plant manager then the CEOs assistant about it to defend me, making it clear to them the mistake I made wasn't a big deal at all. The engineer and PM I guess have noticed how he talks to me for a while but never said anything to me until now. I am sure this guy will keep trying to pin mistakes on me but I'm a lot happier today than I was yesterday","attachment":null,"posted":1714085102},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791958,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791678
Nvm. I'm just gonna walk out next Friday. Thanks for reading my vent posts","attachment":null,"posted":1714157827},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2791976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791958
anon, sounds like you need a vacation at the least","attachment":null,"posted":1714161605},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792135,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791830","attachment":null,"posted":1714188990},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792182,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763166
I own things that have been sold in shops with worse welds on than that.
>>2776172
3 eyed wall toad. common in industry/construction. they have evolved beyond the need of water or moist environments, due to their adaption to consume blood.","attachment":null,"posted":1714206345},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778646
Can't you just make up a company name and list yourself as the owner? I don't think they actually ask for any company documentation.","attachment":null,"posted":1714210941},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792197,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"huffing is stupid","attachment":null,"posted":1714210977},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"only 48 more post until this thread is dead","attachment":null,"posted":1714211037},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792203,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bump 1","attachment":null,"posted":1714211411},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2792957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792197
for me it's nr212 smoke that hits the right spot
there's no better way to start your day than black coffee, cowboy killers, and the smell of 5p red rod burning","attachment":null,"posted":1714344504},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2793558,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792198
bumpity","attachment":null,"posted":1714435729},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2794102,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
just got my car back from getting lowered
does this look ok?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714542674778408.jpg","filename":"lower1.jpg"},"posted":1714542674},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2794458,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792198
the bumping of the wannabe tin man will continue until the welding content improves","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714604071076579.jpg","filename":"al flow tank.jpg"},"posted":1714604071},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2794480,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794102
It's beautiful.","attachment":null,"posted":1714607545},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2794781,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794102
Those three bolts hold the shock to the newly welded frame, one of the bolts isn't even threaded on all the way. Would recommend you tighten that down, use some blue loctite and check the torque but otherwise it's probably fine, assuming the welder did his job right.","attachment":null,"posted":1714678254},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2795690,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
happiness is a new pair of welpers","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714878234391627.jpg","filename":"welpers.jpg"},"posted":1714878234},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796248,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sounds like I'll be making a security gate like picrel, frames are a nightmare since I'm a garage warrior without a fixture table.
Got any advice on how to make this sucker efficiently and keep it square?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715003127553679.jpg","filename":"Iron-Bar-Gate-10-768x1152.jpg"},"posted":1715003127},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796270,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796248
square is easy enough with a tape measure, and a concrete floor is flat enough. when it goes into the hot dip galv it'll twist it up like a pretzel no matter what you do.","attachment":null,"posted":1715007308},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796273,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796270
It's gonna get painted but that's not my worry","attachment":null,"posted":1715007981},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796248
If you can't tack it down to a table (that can't bend, clamping it to a bendy table won't help), then using temporary attachments might help. Tack it all together and then weld a few scrap bars across it to prevent pulling. Cut them off afterwards.
You can also try to control your heat input by not slamming it super hot on one side. Alternate locations and sides so that everything is locked in before anything is finished. Maybe get some tempsticks/thermo crayons and don't weld if the temp is above 300 f.","attachment":null,"posted":1715030221},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796449
Oh, and don't put the crayon directly on the weld location. That shit causes porosity. Use them 1-3 inches away.","attachment":null,"posted":1715030287},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796451
You'd think that would be obvious, but knowing some of the welders I know... Also don't eat it. It might look tasty to some of you, but I promise it's not and it's probably very unhealthy. Stick to Crayola.","attachment":null,"posted":1715061221},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796650,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796449
Ok thanks, I might use the excess bars clamp it flat diagonally
I don't have a mig so this is gonna be 6013 only","attachment":null,"posted":1715083197},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2796664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
can i get some intel of OP pic?","attachment":null,"posted":1715087722},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797129,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've come into posession of an old Millermatic 35, 70's model. I have an old, most definitely out of date large 100% argon bottle.
Where the fuck do I go to get this thing refilled/exchanged? The obvious answer is a welding supply place, but will they take this old bottle? I really dont want to go to airgas.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715189870220026.jpg","filename":"20240508_133622.jpg"},"posted":1715189870},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797129
provided it doesn't have some company's name stamped in the metal or on the neck ring marking it as a rental, most places will swap it for a full cylinder and maybe charge $10-30 for a hydro test. rumor has it you can buff off a stamed name and repaint the bottle to remove the rental information if needed. also make the guy at the store look at it in the bed of your pickup and agree to swap it before giving them possession. shitbag gas dealers will take the cylinder, then make some bullshit up and refuse to give it back to you
t. owns about 25 gas cylinders","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715193834195403.jpg","filename":"SZmQczi.jpg"},"posted":1715193834},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765479
>migger, tha jew of welding
/pol/tards learn to weld","attachment":null,"posted":1715194720},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797172,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797156
Yeah, I called a LWS like my retarded ass should have to begin with, and they told me $50 recert, and $50 to swap for a new cylinder because I own it. lot cheaper than I thought it would be honestly.","attachment":null,"posted":1715195862},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797172
don't get straight argon if you're going to be welding steel. you want 75% argon 25% co2. they should swap for a bottle of whatever you want","attachment":null,"posted":1715196995},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797184,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797181
I intend on welding aluminum with it and all of the consequences that come with that. I only need to weld a few small cracks in my aluminum boat, so I think it will be fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1715197384},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2765080
Not that anon but I have a feeling that's gonna be what's wrong with my welder.","attachment":null,"posted":1715202174},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797221,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768083
Used 140a mig machine for 150-300
argon bottle i think was 150-200
hood, wire, clamps/whelpers, tip dip, tips etc, 100-150. Assuming you have die grinders, angle grinders, etc.
It's not that expensive. No, it's not retard proof but the fundamentals aren't that complicated and will make the rest much easier to learn intuitively.
I don't think it takes even 30 hours to do serviceable mig work if you're really putting in effort.
All it comes down to is reading the puddle and getting pace down. With mig you have a lot of sound cues that help. Once you lay a few decent beads you'll have a frame of reference to make adjustments from, then it gets easier","attachment":null,"posted":1715203847},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797225,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2768083
>>2797221
damn I'm retarded i didn't see you said aluminum/stainless. You'll want to get into Tig i guess, it is a lot harder than mig. You're pretty intimate with the weld.
You can weld stainless with mig if it's aesthetic, you just lose corrosion resistance along the weld because of chromium migration","attachment":null,"posted":1715204251},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797401,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797225
It's not that hard if you get through the theory on how it's supposed to work, people blow Tig difficulty out of proportion. Literally oxy acetylene but nicer
t. self taught, later certified tigger","attachment":null,"posted":1715250567},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797406,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm looking for a corded die grinder but not a lot of options are available around me, found a 400 watt makita for a really nice price. Does anyone have experience working with something in this or similar wattage? The ones that have 750 or 800 watts are too damn expensive to justify","attachment":null,"posted":1715251875},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797427,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797406
is air an option?","attachment":null,"posted":1715258079},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797463,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797427
I already have a pneumatic, it's not bad but my compressor is small so air tools Don get much use, that's why I thought about getting an electric one. It's more powerful than my dremel at least and I have a few carbide burrs in good condition","attachment":null,"posted":1715264344},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797464,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797463
harbor freight as big air tanks that will be plenty for under $300. I know that's not what you're asking, but I figured i'd mention if you didn't know and are in the US.","attachment":null,"posted":1715264872},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797467,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I’m a 28 yo jobless ex-graphic designer replaced by cheap pajeets and AI combo.
Local employment office keep asking me if I would be ok with learning welding to get a job.
Is it a viable career choice at nearly 30yo? Can I except to be paid more than minimum wage in my mid-thirties if I start now?","attachment":null,"posted":1715265061},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797468,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797464
I'm not in the US but here we have stores similar to harbor freight, and a real compressor is the next big thing I'm getting, air tools are cool","attachment":null,"posted":1715265075},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797471,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797467
> nearly 30yo
27 and recently started professional tigging, I have some previous experience though, I made some junk for friends and fixed some exhausts. It's a nice career for a change since I was an office dweller before but I don't plan on doing this shit my entire life","attachment":null,"posted":1715265194},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797471
Nice to know, I loathe office work too but at least it paid decently. Is it hard/long to learn if you aren’t /diy/ to start?","attachment":null,"posted":1715266363},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797468
>and a real compressor is the next big thing I'm getting, air tools are cool
Based. you should. I love air tools too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715267473},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797503,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797481
Which process are you going to learn? Do you have good dexterity and spatial awareness?
> Is it hard/long to learn if you aren’t /diy/ to start?
It's not if know the theory behind how it's supposed to work. It basically comes down to melting 2 pieces of metal and jamming more metal in the puddle which you need to constantly watch and this is the universal rule for every process, different metals react to heat differently but it's more of a consistency issue which is one of the main things you'll need to be good at. There's a lot of videos on jewtube and they explain it well. You can always ask here and someone will give you good advice.
A lot of people start with mig since it's the easiest one apparently but I was a poorfag so I learned on smaw, tig was surprisingly easy to learn though, you can identify mistakes immediately","attachment":null,"posted":1715271862},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797504,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797503
Yeah and one more thing, you'll need to git good with grinders and saws, depending on the job, you'll use them more than you use your welding machine. Don't fuck around with them, they're powerful and dangerous, just use your brain and you'll be fine","attachment":null,"posted":1715272013},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797555,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797406
i have a couple of the older milwakees. they do what they're supposed to. i'm not a dewalt guy, but their corded die grinder is cheap and gets good reviews","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715280380701388.jpg","filename":"20240509_114424.jpg"},"posted":1715280380},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797557,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797555
fwiw i have an old old (like 20yo) corded dewalt angle grinder and it's awesome.","attachment":null,"posted":1715280850},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797503
>Which process are you going to learn?
Haven’t decided yet. Employment office want to send me to learn TIG.
Thanks, very helpful anon.","attachment":null,"posted":1715289116},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797605,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796664
He got witnessed","attachment":null,"posted":1715290121},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797406
variable speed is the most important thing on a corded die grinder.
paddles are nice but not ergonomic. slides are ergonomic but you lose feathering the switch.
>>2797467
bait and switch bullshit.
is the literal easiest thing to teach someone to 'weld'.
as in it takes months to teach someone to be even allowed near electric, plumbing etc. vs having someone play with a welder.
If it's free take it.
Tell them you're interested in CNC machining. Very boring. But if you're on this site you're already qualified to get into it. Much easier on your body then welding.
any trade you're going to be a bitch. Welder be prepared to run a grinder and carry heavy shit all day. Machine shop be prepared to stare at a saw cutting all day. etc. You're also going to be bullied for being useless at your age. Ignore. Sooner you get into something the better.","attachment":null,"posted":1715300729},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797794,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797599
Checked and good luck, don't turn down a paid tig course but don't rely only on your instructors, I'm telling you from experience because some people don't know how to transfer their knowledge to someone else, you'll get skilled as you work but GTAW is 80% tricks like positioning or torch manipulation to make your job easier.
>>2797685
> variable speed is the most important thing on a corded die grinder.
I saw cheap ones with variable speed but I never had to use it really, I just keep it at max for anything, burrs especially
> is the literal easiest thing to teach someone to 'weld'.
This, I taught my sister in 2 hours, she's good but makes mistakes with torch height like most people, the issue is that some old dudes don't want to teach newbies because they feel years of experience will go down the drain","attachment":null,"posted":1715319861},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797838,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797794
>Checked and good luck, don't turn down a paid tig course but don't rely only on your instructors, I'm telling you from experience because some people don't know how to transfer their knowledge to someone else, you'll get skilled as you work but GTAW is 80% tricks like positioning or torch manipulation to make your job easier.
Can say that this is true for basically all welding. There's a lot of myths and half-truths that gets repeated while some facts are just completely left out.
For example when you're learning TIG basically the only thing you're told about grinding the tungsten is to do it lengthwise since it produces a more stable arc. The actual impact grind angle has on the arc and the puddle isn't mentioned. You're basically just expected to figure out which angle works for you and when. Even people who've worked with TIG welding for decades will say there's a difference but won't be able to articulate what that difference actually is apart from various possible explanations. But they'll still know that if they're welding a outside corner joint they get the best results if they pick a specific grinding angle, hold the torch in a specific way , have a specific arc length and use a specific size of filler wire, etc., because they've just done it a bunch of times and figured that out. If they tell someone else how they do it, the other person might struggle a lot because even a tiny difference in arc length, torch angle and deposition rate messes it up.","attachment":null,"posted":1715340935},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797838
I knew that stuff from the interwebs, when I started welding school to get certs my instructor told me to grind the electrode sideways but I thought I'd look like a retard if I argued so I kept doing lengthwise even when other students did it the wrong way.
> You're basically just expected to figure out which angle works for you and when.
This applies even more to torch holding, I'm in Europe so our torches have switches and you're apparently supposed to hold the thing like a hammer which absolutely sucks for anything and you get zero precision. Another thing I learned from experience with sheet metal is that you definitely can melt the wire first then mix the blob with base metal if it's really thin, it won't fail despite what everyone says, at least for SS or mild steel","attachment":null,"posted":1715343768},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2797857,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797854
Yeah and I pulled the trigger and bought this 400 watt Makita for 2/3 of the price, seriously the quietest power tool I've ever used. It kicks ass, carbide burrs are accurate, work fast and don't produce as much heat, everyone should have a few of them. Abrasives can suck a dick","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715344140674621.jpg","filename":"bzzzzt.jpg"},"posted":1715344140},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2798198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
post #300: good riddance to the tin man
new thread: >>2798197","attachment":null,"posted":1715395269},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2798277,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2771592
If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid. I use a shopping trolly I cut the bottom out of and welded onto the top.","attachment":null,"posted":1715416954},{"board":"diy","thread":2763067,"pid":2798695,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2763067
how the fuck did you get my drivers license picture","attachment":null,"posted":1715507413}]}
{"title":"Anyone else feels like academic engineering takes a lot of fun out of making stuff","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777276,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm not an engineer, I just like to make stuff. Naturally, lots of the content I watch often happens to be made by engineers (or engineering students), and seeing them go about making things sometimes makes me wanna kms. You've got a team of 5 dudes making a rc car, each bro i would assume assigned with his own task, trying to calculate every single thing that could possibly be calculated around said rc car before they ever dare to assemble the real thing. Listen I get why the methodology exist and I'm grateful for it, I don't want our buildings or bridges or commercial airliners to be eye balled, but following this workflow whilst trying to create something new is grating to watch. What happened to trying shit out? That's what the OGs did in the early 1900s and it looks a lot more fun than how we're going about it today.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711465825637415.jpg","filename":"triplanebomba.jpg"},"posted":1711465825},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777290,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"As an actual design engineer, I have to agree that just throwing shit together because it "feels right" is a lot more fun than digging out all the equations and tables and studies and spending a lot of time trying to do it "per the book", but ON THE OTHER HAND IT'S NICE WHEN IT FUCKING WORKS.
Good luck anon, but don't try to do anything more complex than a simple jump ramp.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711468442183933.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-03-26_11-53-32.png"},"posted":1711468442},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>What happened to trying shit out?
That is what I still do. Get an idea, try it out. Sometimes you have to change something on the fly if you see a problem popping up you didn't plan on. Sometimes you have to make a whole new version 2 or 3 with what you learned from the previous versions. No way in hell I would ever sit down and draft something up in great detail other than a basic napkin sketch. That would be wasted time for me. Other folks obviously vary.","attachment":null,"posted":1711470032},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777304,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
my ramp is gonna be cooler than urs. Also, sometimes there's ideas that just don't have equations and tables and studies. Or sometimes there actually IS useful calculation you could make but making prototypes and testing them is actually easier than wrapping your head around abstract mathematical concepts you don't even care about. There's a time and a place for both is all I'm saying.
>>2777298
dis what Im talking about. That leonardo davinci shit. Had davinci wasted time with the nitty gritty, he wouldntve been able to explore all the shit he wanted to explore. Excessive specialization is the antithesis of the renaissance man","attachment":null,"posted":1711470701},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I worked 20 years as a research engineer in an experimental lab. Our group was very data centric and we rarely started with equations. Things would get math heavy only in data analysis and then trying to model what we found. I'm sure I sent > $1M though machine shops with few design reviews. In many designs there are places where you have to do engineering analysis, but over analysis is easy to do when you are just trying to prove a concept. From my experience a 3 step process should be used. #1 make it work (this is the hard part), #2 make it work better, #3 see step 2.","attachment":null,"posted":1711471926},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777333,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>That's what the OGs did in the early 1900s and it looks a lot more fun
Many of the OGs in the olden days also spent their entire lives spitballing ideas and failing to make anything work because there were no existing examples to derive test data from.
Then when they did get some proof of concept working they often died young while attempting to gather that data, which is necessary to develop engineering standards.
not pissing your life away throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks and maybe dying in the process all for (maybe) being a footnote in the history books or a staple of old tyme engineering fail videos doesnt sound like much fun at all.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711473066224143.jpg","filename":"199o37l21hhddjpg.jpg"},"posted":1711473066},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777355,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777333
>not pissing your life away throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks and maybe dying in the process all for (maybe) being a footnote in the history books
Academic engineers are the ones who end up in the footnotes for inventing a "7.3% more efficient!!1!" variation of the idea of a natural engineer.
>not pissing your life away throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks
Hence why I mentioned that it's about balance. Reinventing the wheel every time you've got an idea is a waste of time, no shit. But if you ONLY ever go by the book (which is how modern engineers are trained it seems), you'll never create anything new, only very minute variations of what has been done a million times before.","attachment":null,"posted":1711475408},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777355
>it's about balance
nah, it's about brilliance. a Bob Widlar comes along once in a generation, and you can dream of being Bob, but you ain't Bob and you're never going to be Bob. All the loser engineers who create "minute variations" are doing the best they can with what they have. Go ahead and invent a better laser diode with your "natural engineering", and get fucking rich.
(Widlar, who was described as "more artist than engineer", at one point in time [Widlar and Talbert] were responsible – one designed them and one made them – for more than eighty percent of the linear circuits made and sold in the world)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711477642847131.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-03-26_14-23-51.png"},"posted":1711477642},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777384,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
I went through a pretentious music phase, and a pretentious movie phase.
When you learn the elements of music or you learn movie tropes and really analyze and break them down, they completely lose their magic.
Being "art" there is some intangible magic which can speak to you, but if you are breaking it down to the building blocks and figure out what its trying to do, its a lot harder to enjoy.
When designing something, its the exact opposite. There is no magic, there is no aura trying to make you feel a certain way.
Its a tool that has a job, and it does its job with little fanfare.
Breaking things down to their building blocks and calculating everything is fucking awesome.
You are trying to make something tangible in the real world. Putting serious thought and effort into every single part makes great end products.
I fucking LOATHE eyeballing stuff in my projects and avoid it if I can.","attachment":null,"posted":1711479155},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777355
I'd say it's a bit of both. Serious engineering often allows for developing ideas and concepts that would otherwise get laughed out. The Wankel engine for instance, people would say it's terribly inefficient, it will never achieve proper compression, the shapes are too complex for cost-effective machining and all. Well, with the proper math, you can show people that they are wrong and come up with an actual grounds-breaking concept. In practice, the Wankel did prove too expensive and not as efficient, but it's far from the pipe dream that its detractors claimed it was.","attachment":null,"posted":1711483270},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>>What happened to trying shit out
we still do, but stuff's so complicated now it can get expensive to try stuff out and find out you fucked up. You want to try stuff out? Get into doing simulations, it's a lot like playing a videogame. Computers make doing all those calculations much easier. Generally, the more math you do the more interesting the engineering gets. Take mechanism design, you know actually designing mechanical stuff. Designing fundamentally new mechanisms is a lot easier the more math you know. You can literally fucking mathematically prove mechanisms into existence.
>>2777355
>"7.3% more efficient!!1!"
that's pretty fucking huge. If you make a heat engine or electrical power supply more efficient by 7.3% you're gonna get RICH!","attachment":null,"posted":1711484830},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
How do I become a design engineer? I wanna be an inventor so bad man","attachment":null,"posted":1711491933},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Western exceptionalism is built around the fraternity of scolasticism and empiricism. Empiricism, though, comes first (See Faraday and Maxwell). These days, the balance is off.","attachment":null,"posted":1711492156},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777384
>I fucking LOATHE eyeballing stuff in my projects and avoid it if I can.
Nobody said you have to eyeball anything, you can still build with precise measurements without it being engineered or drawn up in CAD.","attachment":null,"posted":1711493169},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777454
>you can still build with precise measurements without it being engineered or drawn up in CAD.
I mean everyone does this with small and basic projects. The problem is when you want to start doing bigger better projects, its all in the planning. And planning quickly becomes messy and complicated.
The reality for everyday /diy/ers is, any halfway decent or mildly complicated project can be greatly improved just by using CAD.
People get scared of the though of CAD, but its piss easy to learn and its cheap/free nowadays.
When OP says "what happened to trying things out", thats the exact opposite of what you want.
Everyone has done projects where they forget some key component, something is wrong or doesnt fit.
You have to rework what you just did because of shitty planning, and the project suffers for it.
You would have caught that if you would have modeled it in CAD
It really helps you take the next step in your projects, especially with the built in testing tools. It literally does stress test and engineering for you.","attachment":null,"posted":1711497060},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777503,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
As somebody who is studying engineering (Aerospace Engineering, specifically). I agree, CAD is the bane of my existence, calculations can be greatly simplified to just rules of thumb.
I have built my own radio controlled aircraft before, using only rules of thumb (and they worked), but really, I do see the importance of calculations, just not shit like CAD. If anything, it slows down design and puts everything into a box.
That said, I think there is a difference in my mentality and the mentality of my classmates. I have an upcoming project to design a glider as a team and I already have a design in mind (based on Lippisch and Horten research into Nurflugel). The design would be really quite simple with only a half elliptical wing and a boom with a vertical stabilizer (no rudder, which can be controlled by drag rudders, which double as spoilers).
To me, this looks right, almost like a Seagull in flight. I would call this glider Mowe (German for Seagull), if I could. I need to convince my team, which has terminal Boeing mentality, to go along with it.
P.S: The airfoil is a Gottingen Goe 445.","attachment":null,"posted":1711501163},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
is it still more satisfying to throw shit together when throwing shit together usually involves lots of swearing and more wasted materials?","attachment":null,"posted":1711501480},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777517,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
Getting an engineering degree was really not what I was expecting. All the promo material showed students in electronics lab doing cool looking projects. IRL there was one project course per year and the rest of it was cramming calculus textbooks.
I find project work really fun and it motivates me to learn all the theory needed to make my project perfect and then some. Doing nothing but solving equations on paper isn't very interesting and it's often not clear how the theories relate to the real world. I got through my degree but it was a miserable struggle.
What's worse is after graduating I had some programming interviews. I taught myself programming in highschool and could have answered the questions back then, but I'd spent the last four years doing almost nothing but fucking calculus homework. Nobody ever expects you to solve a partial differential equation on an interview or on the job.
Now there's a lot of new grads who can't do anything hands on like soldering and breadboarding. They're not even aware that real life op-amps aren't always perfectly rail to rail like the ones in textbook problems.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711502196659705.jpg","filename":"the-shining-frozen-jack-nicholson.jpg"},"posted":1711502196},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777517
> Now there's a lot of new grads who can't do anything hands on like soldering and breadboarding. They're not even aware that real life op-amps aren't always perfectly rail to rail like the ones in textbook problems.
>>2777472 again. This is what I mean by terminal Boeing mentality: Kids who dream of working for Boeing, Lockheed Martin, Raytheo, Northrop Grumman, or any one of the "industry leaders" in their field or fields of engineering, while having no practical knowledge or experience.
Boeing is the most common company that I see the classmates in my field dreaming of as a job. (Probably why Boeing has made so many boo-boos in the past 15 years).","attachment":null,"posted":1711502731},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777525
>>2777503 here, not >>2777472 . Sorry.","attachment":null,"posted":1711502812},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777541,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>Anyone else feels like academic engineering takes a lot of fun out of making stuff
Yeah, because academic engineering isn't just about having an idea and trying it out, which is the fun part of engineering. It's about the final design being good at what it does.
The reality is, any fuckwit can make a toy RC plane, often with minimal or no education on the subject. But they're going to fuck critical things up, or, at the very least, end up with a working but inefficient design. That's fine, it's just a toy. It didn't cost much and posed minimal risk of damage or injury. That isn't the case when you're designing a 300-passenger jet for Boeing (okay maybe Boeing thinks it is but still). Or a 70-storey building. You don't get the luxury of just cobbling together something that looks cool and then ironing out the kinks later. Major design oversights on "real" projects can easily end up costing 7+ figures, a lawsuit, or both.
The more math-heavy side of engineering exists because efficiency is a desirable goal. Think of the earliest internal combustion engines. A lot of those were just made based on winging it, seeing how well it worked, and making improvements to the next version. And they were dogshit compared to even the worst of modern engines. One could easily weigh over a hundred pounds just to make single-digit horsepower. The basic design of a simple, carbureted engine has barely changed between then and now. However, between thew slew of small optimizations and materials improvements, the modern engine can be any combination you want of more powerful, smaller, lighter, more efficient, and cheaper.
That's the point of it. Optimization. You don't HAVE to do it (usually), but, reality is, you're kind of half-assing it if you aren't.","attachment":null,"posted":1711504574},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777503
Halt! Papiere bitte! This german aerospace enthusiast wants to see your Möwe.","attachment":null,"posted":1711527149},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777541
Your arguments are all correct, but I think the problem these guys and myself have is that optimization is cringe and gay. I think this can be avoided by is actually coming up with something new and original, in which case youre "allowed" to make it non-optimized. However, I also think you can NEVER throw theory out the window. Take, for example, the Wright Brothers. They went through the classical iterative design process, tried things out and improved after every failure. They were, however, also well versed in theory and supplemented their knowledge with experiments. Thats the reason the aeroplane was invented by them and not the hundreds of shmucks who had tried to do so before them.","attachment":null,"posted":1711527702},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
academia is a joke
even in egghead shit like software engineering academic types are seen as impractical retards not being able to produce results that matter","attachment":null,"posted":1711531321},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777503
A vertical stabilizer but no rudder? Sounds like bullshit to me anon. Maybe you mean a horizontal stabilizer/Elevator?","attachment":null,"posted":1711536274},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777503
Relax retard, noone cares about drag at those Res. You better get that weight down first.","attachment":null,"posted":1711536439},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777676,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777446
academics please respond","attachment":null,"posted":1711538554},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777815,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777541
For diy just doing it and trying stuff out just plain werks better. Even large complicated inventions with many parts can be broken down into simple sub assemblies that can then be linked together.
Now if you come up with a great idea and want to get it mass produced then that is where the engineering really comes into play to make it lighter, cheaper, and easier to mass produce.
As a diy'er I usually don't give a shit about lightness unless it is something I physically have to carry around, so I overbuild the absolute shit out of the things I make for super longevity in the hopes I will never have to touch it again in my lifetime.","attachment":null,"posted":1711559781},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2777887,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777670
NTA....but old hat, Foolio-
>"No rudders were used, and the vertical surfaces were simple fixed fins with no flight controls. "
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northrop_XP-79","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711565838748305.jpg","filename":"600px-Northrop_XP-79.jpg"},"posted":1711565838},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778042,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":"https://youtu.be/za4mN7YL1fA?si=mqqytRTbpSTkJ4YH","attachment":null,"posted":1711583904},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778065,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just dicking around and spitballing ideas gets old quick when stuff doesn't pan out and you need to show results.
I used to work in an engineering lab and was dealing with working on projects where you couldn't just use equations or computer models for a design since we were working in a highly non linear environment and they just weren't reliable. Scale model testing was used to evaluate and optimise the design and it was tedious work, changing a distance here, tweaking a dimension there just to fill out the parameter space. A lot of time and energy wasted going down dead ends or chasing shadows in the data. Null results may still be results but when there is a deadline approaching and you need actual results then you start to sweat and would give your right arm for a bit of guidance from the boring math stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1711585469},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778067,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
fun doesn't matter at work
fun is for hobbies
work is to earn enough to retire young then
pursue hobbies","attachment":null,"posted":1711585591},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778074,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":">>2778067
work won't matter for much longer
Everyone is focusing on the wrong thing.
The gold standard, race, anything but what actually matters.
The world's rate of profit, automation, productivity.
The ghost of communism will come back to haunt the world with a vengeance within a matter of years. What will good will the money you earn to subsist do you when they pull the rug? All that's left is high risk high reward. Its either that or it might as well be nothing at all.
I could be wrong but that's what i think. That's what they're saying. At the world economic forum...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711586301146815.jpg","filename":"images (4).jpg"},"posted":1711586301},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778087,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
I sympathize a lot with what you're feeling. A lot of anons in this thread are taking the words right out of my mouth.
>>2778067
>>2778074
Except (You). Both of you are profoundly retarded.","attachment":null,"posted":1711588773},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778112,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":">>2778087
https://youtu.be/IU-6YCXj6j4?si=B-tJSBpK8FOaJAQQ","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711591740500541.jpg","filename":"454.jpg"},"posted":1711591740},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778150,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":">>2778112
You know while we're on the subject. I've been itching to make a video speaking my mind a little bit on an unrelated subject but not come across as schizo or anything. Anyways here is what i perceive would be the most useful skills to survive a hypothetical robot apocalypse. I'm not implying i've mastered any of those skills or anything.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711596425309522.png","filename":"my-image.png"},"posted":1711596425},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777815
>For diy just doing it and trying stuff out just plain werks better.
Except, even then, that's not always true. Even just from personal example, I built a lifting gantry to move some heavy machinery. I COULD have just winged it, but the consequences of that are either having 2000lb of machine tool come crashing to the ground, or spending an extra few hundred dollars on extra steel that wasn't needed. Maybe I get lucky and manage to eyeball it correctly, but why would I do that when learning some very basic statics and engineering the main span properly took less than an hour? Never even mind the confidence of knowing I have a mathematically-validated safety factor of 5.0+. Standing anywhere near a suspended load that weighs as much as a small car is already nerve-wracking enough, fuck the potential added stress of "gee I really hope this holds".
As another example, I've also got a 3D printer design on the backburner. Using basic physics to see how fast it should be able to move with a given motor helps greatly with figuring out how much I want/need to spend on the servo motors.
As yet another, I'm working on an angle grinder attachment that involves some wheels at as much as 18,000RPM. A bit of research and math showed the bearings I had selected weren't going to last very long. Again, very little effort spent checking, probably saved me quite a bit more in re-doing parts of the assembly after the thing failed.
I won't lie, the vast majority of my design work is just based on best guesses and experience. I would guess a lot of industrial design work still is. Those do still count for a lot when fleshing out the overall design. But knowing where to and actually putting in the extra effort in critical areas is incredibly useful, no matter how you slice it.","attachment":null,"posted":1711598012},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778158
>But knowing where to and actually putting in the extra effort in critical areas is incredibly useful, no matter how you slice it.
Well no fucking duh. Yeah if you're building something like a gantry you probably want to at least research your beam size a bit not just get the flimsiest one you can up there. But that's still a bit different then sitting down at a computer and making a fully functional cad model of everything. Hell they have charts showing you how to size a beam properly, what kind of loads it can handle, etc.
And yes if you have things spinning at high speed with any kind of substantial weight you probably don't want to just slap some of the cheapest 608 bearings in there. Did you fully draft up the entire contraption in CAD and have it do a full analysis of the strain on every joint, and your material selection in order to get the engineer's stamp of approval?","attachment":null,"posted":1711601251},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778176,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":">>2778150
Well my dad just left. He came to visit. He and my mother law subscribed to my yt. My mom is subscribed as well. She commented on the deleted video. Regardless to say i'm going to have to tone it down a bit so they won't get worried. Really i owe it them since they have been helping me out financially and such... Like i said in my next video i will make it doomer theme talking about a hypothetical robot doomsday scenario I think. Now I happen to be a jack of many trades but my knowledge is stretched thin and im getting a little rusty really ive been trying to keep my mind sharp constantly learning but this year im going to be 35... And yes I do happen to have a wife with a kid. But let me explain. She's thai. That's my explanation. lol. Again im lucky to have my parents as a safety net and i haven't felt much need so really my doomerism as far as im concerned is a bit exaggerated. But going back to me being a jack of all trades. I don't happen to have deep knowledge regarding hacking, but I know somebody who does, but he charges a modest fee $50 for 3 months worth of stuff... for "ethical hacking" ;)
tell him peteblank gave you the referral and he'll add in a month and i'll get a small fee. I appreciate the views but i'd also appreciate a little extra. I help you you help me kind of thing and got to show something to my goldigger wife. I am not responsible what you do with the stuff on the telegram. He'll give you good stuff but you have to put in a little effort you know, get acquainted with privilege escalation on linux, python, cross side scripting. He also offers tutoring for a fee. Again what you do between him and you is not my responsibility. I'm on the fence on whether to advertise it on the youtube channel. Yes you'd be risking $50 but you can report and take down my channel if you don't get the things you seek.
Get on telegram and look up @V3T4L1
We're at a good spot for this kind of advertising because the channel is not like huge or anything.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711603726534438.gif","filename":"b9aa579e1028f7bdd1e8aaa196013eb2.gif"},"posted":1711603726},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2778182,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777446
Get a degree in mechanical engineering and then get a job in design engineering.","attachment":null,"posted":1711608485},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
if you want to make a plane that will kill only you seconds from taking off thats one thing...and still fucking retarded because you could easily kill somebody else. real things are made for money, and work usually isnt fun. stop being a fag","attachment":null,"posted":1711807406},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777503
a flying wing with an airfoil without reflex?
lol. lmao even.","attachment":null,"posted":1711838442},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779490,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>I'm not an engineer
yes that one is obvious. as for your example, i really wouldn't eyeball an rc car either, especially the batteries and motors
the engine fried itself before moving at all but hey at least you saved an hour of boring pen and paper work
also, context? if it was competitive in nature then "it just werks" is always doomed to fail","attachment":null,"posted":1711840489},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778170
nta but this reads like a strawman
>Hell they have charts showing you how to size a beam properly, what kind of loads it can handle, etc
indeed you can just look up a formula and plug in the numbers but i'd rather have it done by someone who understands the theory and limitations of the formula and tables than someone who doesn't
for example these don't take into account force concentrations or the anisotropic behavior of certain materials, fatigue, or just that drilling a small hole is enough to triple the local stress concentration","attachment":null,"posted":1711844058},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777517
What do you make of the train wreck competitions where engineering student groups trying and failing spectacularly? Are all of our engineers just fucking retarded now?
There was a big competition for hyperloop and like 9/10 groups didn't make it 5 feet","attachment":null,"posted":1711846196},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779542,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779531
its a bit of a humiliation ritual. how much can you possibly expect to get done by a group of peak dunning krueger kids in 1 semester? half these kids will end up at vaporware companies anyway and not even be aware of it lmao.","attachment":null,"posted":1711847073},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779553,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm a structural engineer and I get the best of both worlds. Stuff I design gets built within 6 months after issuing the drawings. And it has to be economical and practical or you're out of a job. So you have a continuous process of refining your skillset while beholden to codes standards and calculations.
The idea of being in development hell for 4 years and its not built because marketing department doesnt like it would drive me fucking insane","attachment":null,"posted":1711847778},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779559,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779531
because it's a dumb idea in the first place
elon musk has also managed to uninvent the subway and move traffic jams underground in death traps
>for your next engineering challenge you have to design an electric car that can drive 1000 miles in 10 hours without recharging
>wtf everyone failed are they dumb or something?","attachment":null,"posted":1711848213},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779559
Hyper loop being dumb as hell aside, The two best teams, one used an off the shelf rc car, and the other strapped a nitrogen bottle to wheel and let it rip","attachment":null,"posted":1711848416},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://www.youtube.com/@project-air/videos
this is a good channel about messing with rc cars and planes without really understanding what is going on. his "designs" often crash on their first flight and these sometimes involve expensive miniature jets
>don't need no slip-rol or pitch stability
>downforce, never heard of it
>i'm going things more aerodynamic by decreasing the wing's AR and reinforce the tail with wooden sticks
>i made this part more aerodynamic by adding a nose (when the back surface is completely flat)
jesus if you're going to make youtube videos about airplanes for a living at least read aerodynamics for dummies or something","attachment":null,"posted":1711851078},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779668,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"When you're building something even slightly complex you either need to calculate tolerances and everything or keep prototyping through trial and error. The latter gets old reaaaal quick","attachment":null,"posted":1711862701},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779736,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777517
how much of the math is actually needed, im thinking of picking up a book for math & physics for inventors or something like that(im not even at high school level of math)","attachment":null,"posted":1711885068},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779833,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
one of the best lessons in design engineering (t. BSE Inventive Design) was a random company making RC helicopters before the drone explosion. The students asked how did you do the calculations for the rotational force s.t. the blade didn't grenade when spun up. Calculations they said? We attach one end to the rafter then have our fattest guy hang from the other end and figure that's stronk enough.
The thing they DIDN'T teach us in any engineering class was *where* to get anything to actually make stuff. The difference between a channel like mark rober and me (20 years his senior) is a workshop full of motors, servos, controllers, equipment, screws, printers etc. Design engineering should be more about compliant mechanisms and when to use M5 screws vs. interference fit. I guess that would be DET (design engieering tech, a la EET vs EE)
In short it's sort of like "you can make this from free pallet wood if you a huge shop and $10k of tools"","attachment":null,"posted":1711902757},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779913,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":"I hate to get preachy again but listen.
Not all problems require same degree of creativity.
The invention of the microwave didn't require a lot of creativity, it was about calculating the right frequency to heat food. It has to be very precise.
The invention of the airplane however did require a lot of creativity.
Robots are more like the invention of the airplane than the microwave and so is AI despite it being heavy on math I think. If I could get a partner and you told me to pick between and architect or an engineer i'd pick an architect.","attachment":null,"posted":1711916144},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779931,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
in work designing toaster rack
why is the spacing 70mm
i liked that number. when i did the maths after the safety factor was 4.5x. but i like 70mm for holding 800kg 9000x700x15 plates, it feels right.","attachment":null,"posted":1711918541},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779968,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777355
>if you ONLY ever go by the book (which is how modern engineers are trained it seems), you'll never create anything new, only very minute variations of what has been done a million times before
The thing that many fail to realize is that just not going by the book is not enough, you also have to know *the* book ways very well to have a chance at creating something truly new, otherwise there's a great chance you'll be wasting time both reinventing the wheel and going against the book without realizing it.
There are also fundamentals (like basic laws of physics) that you either do by the book or you are 100% bound to fail.","attachment":null,"posted":1711924299},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779973,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779913
>The invention of the airplane however did require a lot of creativity.
bad example. it wasn't "invented" it was a series of innovations that eventually made it possible. and birds exist you know
the most difficult part besides the power to weight ratio was achieving a stable and controlled flight but that was already achieved with gliders in the 19th century","attachment":null,"posted":1711925940},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2779993,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>tfw good at math & physics
>Hate inventing, tinkering and taking stuff apart
>Hate that engineering collegues are boring uggos
I should've been an artist. I take all these inventions for granted and care very little for how they work.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711928989678815.jpg","filename":"1711150987930914.jpg"},"posted":1711928989},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780057,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
They are being confusing on purpose, to hide their mistakes, and make others dependent on them to explain it.
Jewish knowledge obfuscation is a bigger problem than anything else in academia and is a legitimate threat to civilization.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711942743183936.jpg","filename":"1711942488077.jpg"},"posted":1711942743},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777517
This. Engineering nowadays is more a maths degree than anything practical.","attachment":null,"posted":1711945578},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780070
not really. they teach you lots of maths in your first year because it's a tool to solve problems, in your later years most stuff can be derived with highschool algebra, like the theoretical limit of power you can extract from wind, or the optimal bypass ratio in turbofans
and if you encounter a DE you just put some forward euler script in matlab or python and call it a day. a bad habit i know but it gets shit done","attachment":null,"posted":1712009962},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779736
in my first year it was calculus followed by even more calculus but i have a presumption it was there to weed out the brainlets
didn't really need it for later courses but i took the brainlet mechanical engineer route. the first year was everyone together so i can only speak for myself
at least i'm not a civil retard. they even have to interact with the "architects" and these are considered especially retarded even by civil engineering standards, and that just took a very short conversation with a friend of a friend
i know how to calculate a beam but they have courses about concrete with a digit behind it","attachment":null,"posted":1712015741},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780495,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778170
>Did you fully draft up the entire contraption in CAD
Most of it, yes. It's almost always way better to do at least a rough model beforehand to suss out any stupid issues like "oh, this part literally won't fit in the gap I left for it" and greatly cuts down on the inevitable "shit, now that I've got this together I can see it would have been way better to do [whatever]". The only time I don't bother is when the assembly is literally like 4 parts of minimal complexity.
>have it do a full analysis of the strain on every joint
I mean, I could...but I already know, based on experience, that strength isn't the limiting factor anywhere in the design. It rarely is for personal 1-offs.
I don't even know what your or the OP's point even is anymore. By now, it's little more than just whining about how, sometimes, some people want you to do math on some parts of some projects. You already know you don't have to do this for many designs. You technically never have to do it if it's just something you're putting together for yourself.
Nobody's stopping you from fucking around and finding out on a regular basis, other than the ones in charge of expensive corporate projects. You literally never have to bother with the parts you don't like if you don't want to outside of that scope. WTF is there even to complain about?","attachment":null,"posted":1712023103},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2780581,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780495
Some people are just too lazy and ignorant to do things properly even when they really should so they start inventing excuses why their fucking around is just as great, if not even better way to achieve results.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712044591217273.png","filename":"sinking vessel seeker.png"},"posted":1712044591},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783034,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777384
also, the disadvantage of knowing the mechanics of story telling (hero's journey and stuff like that) and all of the arts of film-making and editing, you can only go on to make Nerdwriter style videos on it, or write pseud articles for a magazine that no one will read. Being a critic sucks.","attachment":null,"posted":1712491860},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
a lot of the time when they 'eyeballed shit' they ended up dead","attachment":null,"posted":1712504184},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"this video right here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTpa0WVHspA
i generally like his videos because like OP has said just eyeballing things and see what works can be entertaining to watch (because i don't have to) but here he made a 20 minute video about boat propellors and he's going to find out by which one is the best by 3D printing and testing every single one of them
the first thing i asked myself was "bro what about your motor speed and torque efficiency" he didn't mention that at all
if i was him i would have read a book abour boat props, then made a parametric prop and slapped a vortex panel CFD software on it and let it run to get some data and designs without the need to print them out and test them in the field, but i suppose that would make a boring video
the one good thing about the comment section in his videos is that the usual brown nosing isn't that significant relatively speaking and he usually gets called out by people even more autistic than me
people being overly reliable on their 3D printers is something that i notice more and more
tl;dr, he could achieve the same with a lot less time and effort if he thinks before he does","attachment":null,"posted":1712541992},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783465,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777639
I forgot I made this post, I will bring you some bread in the next hour, but I think I will make some slight changes.
>>2777671
The construction material of a full size would be Sitka Spruce, maybe not the best material, but comfy, soulful and even fit for purpose as a hobbyist aircraft. A model would be constructed from balsa.
>>2779472
I am a newbie, but would washout not serve the same purpose? I might revise my idea to have this. Reflex could be a simpler solution, but it would not work with drag rudders, unless there is an uneven split, which would make matters harder to solve.
Also, I am thinking of dabbling in lighter than air stuff, specifically for RC. I will probably buy a ready-made envelope from Windreiter and then figure out thrust lines and counter weights, since this will be of a design like that of the Goodyear-type designs. Does anyone know why Goodyear switched to pusher configurations after WWII? Was it because they were louder (so it would draw more attention to the advertising?","attachment":null,"posted":1712543299},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777639
Bread has been served.
Yes, I know it is a rough design proposal and I did not include a third view, but this should give most of what you need to know. More of a napkin sketch than anything else. The ranges and such are educated guesses given visual references. Calculations can be done later.
I might as well make mention, there is such a thing as "too light" for a glider. This is where the craft is unable to penetrate the wind.
Interestingly enough, a similar design has been attempted and is now commercially available.
Sauce: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4123391-Dlg-bow-110
I will now revise the sketch and add washout. Wish me luck, anons!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712545478618183.jpg","filename":"mowe.jpg"},"posted":1712545478},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783483,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783481
Also, I am wondering if a thicker wing is better? Maybe a wing with progressively changing airfoils?
For instance, the center is Goe 8K, then Goe 7K, Goe 6k and finally Goe 5K at the wingtips.
Any advice?","attachment":null,"posted":1712545700},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783498,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783465
yes it does, but you need a significant amount of sweep and that reduces the efficiency unless you're countering transsonic effects, it also affects the lift distribution
i've worked on one for a bit, can't say i'm an expert and reflexed airfoils generally have a lower lift over drag ratio so this is kind of a trade off
it's up to you to make it work but for a first time project it seems like asking for more on your plate than you should
btw i'm genuinely interested so if you give more info about the limitations that would be helpful. i did a similar project, even the match checked out, who knew
forgot to mention adding vertical stabilisers sort of defeats the purpose of trying to get rid of parasitic drag","attachment":null,"posted":1712547516},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783483
depends on what you're trying to achieve. more info would be great","attachment":null,"posted":1712547576},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783501
Just a functional glider for a final project grade in a class. I am thinking outside the box, since it should be of simpler construction than a full fuselage glider. It also should provide an easy work around for using high aspect ration wings.
The airfoils would provide a slight degree of washout, thanks to some differing camber and leading edge positions.
>>2783498
>forgot to mention adding vertical stabilisers sort of defeats the purpose of trying to get rid of parasitic drag
Another oversight on my part, I got wrapped up in spin prevention by having such a fin in place.
These are very good points. Do you think that a slight sweep (five degrees, for example) would be an improvement?
I think that adding dihedral to the wing might also make the need of a vertical stabilizer to be pointless. Does this sound like a reasonable conclusion, or is this a genuinely retarded thought?","attachment":null,"posted":1712548359},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783516,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783506
you're absolutely right, sweep and dihedral have roughly a similar effect on slip-roll stability but dihedral is far more effective
you slip in one direction and that sideslip causes a rolling moment that causes a movement in the other direction to counter the slip
however there is a ton more to it and also dynamic stability is not my strong point so perhaps i should stop talking
>I am thinking outside the box, since it should be of simpler construction than a full fuselage glider.
the main point of flying wings and blended bodies is to actually eliminate the parasitic drag of the fuselage and tail section. it might simplify construction and be even more efficient but you're basically opening pandora's box containing airplane stability
there is an entire general on this board dedicated to rc planes, maybe these anons can also help out. designing is one thing but actually building it also comes with shit like the shrinking foil warping the wing
and when i did this it was with a vanilla layout if we had to work with a reflex airfoil balsa and shrinking foil might not have been an option","attachment":null,"posted":1712551142},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783517,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783498
>match
math","attachment":null,"posted":1712551207},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783520,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783506
oh fugg or were you talking about simple yaw control
i'm fucking off now, se you tomorrow whan my mind is a bit more clear
yeah i suck at stability, always neglected it besides the pitch that doesn't make you nosedive. i'm not that smart or talented, i just know certain things","attachment":null,"posted":1712551718},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783516
I interact with the model airplane guys sometimes. I might share my latest project with them later (kit built Fokker Dr.I). I think that they would be a great deal of help for this project too.
Reflex could be done by making fixed control surfaces. The disadvantage is more tip drag, since there are more corners i n the wing for vortices to develop. I would sooner use tissue paper and banana oil than foil, since this saves weight, Mylar would also be a good option.
>>2783520
The modern train of thought is stability = gyro. Gliders and GA are safe from this trend at the moment. There are advantages to instability, though I am sure you are aware of what they are.
Also, I am far from an expert (my grades explain that, I have a 69 in Calc III). The most important bits of calculus for Aerospace Engineering are series and integrals to find area and volume, which I can do.","attachment":null,"posted":1712581152},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783679
Could mess with spoilers on the wing
Generally rc scale flying wings are fine with just elevons.eleven.
Computer/gyroscope stability is a closes feedback control loop thing and can be applied to anything","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712585658844809.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240408_071159_Edge.jpg"},"posted":1712585658},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783744,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779913
you are the last person who should offer an opinion, as per usual you are absolutely wrong on both examples. shit son, seriously how do you even function in the real world being this retarded?","attachment":null,"posted":1712587092},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783747,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783506
maximum lift minimal drag. both are simple to calculate, that should dictate the profile shape and size of your wing because ultimately it has to also be strong enough to support itself. it's been done with paper airplanes and of course every design since lift was a thing. hobbyists do this all the time in the RC airplane sector. you are treading absolutely zero new ground, stop acting like you'll invent something new by throwing poop at the walls.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712587491553274.jpg","filename":"unnamed.jpg"},"posted":1712587491},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783769,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783481
Ah, Dankeschön!
Cool design, I like the 30s/40s look. I presume the straight trailing edge is for straight control surfaces? In combination with the low AR, your wing has some inbuilt sweep already, though nonlinear (and therefore has non-sinusoidal damping). It's interesting to think what that would do for stabilization. In general, thinner wings are less draggy, but I don't know how much beatings/lift force it needs to endure. I need to know more about this project, also. What are it's goals and limitations?","attachment":null,"posted":1712592121},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783813,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783769
The goal is to fly, or at least be conceptually sound. No limitations are provided, aside from it needing to be structurally sound and/or feasible, hence the aspect ratio.
P.S: I almost considered applying to TUM or TUB, so I could join a division of Akaflieg among other things, but I thought that it would be too much money for college, so I stayed local, since there is still a good college nearby. The AIAA is too expensive, though, plus the guys at college would probably want me to renew my AMA ($85/year after being free up to 18 years of age).
>>2783747
It is nothing novel, I am just trying to apply what I have learned (from my professors). I came up with this design more for the ease of construction, drag rudders would help eliminate the need for additional stab area for a rudder. A model is to be constructed, but the design must be transferred to a computer.","attachment":null,"posted":1712598032},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783841,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783747
What is the stability of the best glide? Compared with the optimal Cl/Cd shape, is it possible that a slightly deeper section is better for real flights, because reduced weight reduces the energy wasted by control surfaces?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712600908472008.png","filename":"DargPolarAL.png"},"posted":1712600908},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783679
yeah or wire cutting foam. it's quick, cheap, easy, durable, easy to repair
however it takes some skill and it restricts your design options. a half eliptical wing anon is suggesting isn't happening but at least it saves you the autism of having to cut all the airfoil profiles out of balsa. 3D printing wasn't much of a thing yet so maybe things have changed
>The most important bits of calculus for Aerospace Engineering are series and integrals to find area and volume, which I can do.
in my case i usually got by with highschool algebra. the most math heavy stuff i saw in this field were joukowski transformations and the lifting line theory derivation
the results are absolutely beautiful though. you can actually prove the moment of a wing around the aerodynamic center is irrelevant of the AoA or roughly calculate a wing's performance with only a few equations
also, the like the lazy arse that i am but more often than not you don't have a choice
>solving a DE?
>forward euler says hi, haha
almost supid how effective such a simple method is, but i usually use central differentiation. it's a second order method that uses the same amount of computations and takes no time to write or understand
just a coding suggestion if anon is going to simulate the flight","attachment":null,"posted":1712631328},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2783977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783841
you do realise that this is a very vague question, right?","attachment":null,"posted":1712631404},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784147,"name":"robowaifutechnician","msg":">>2783744
I'm going to double down and say yes I'd prefer an architect as a partner than an engineer. The inside can be imperfect, the code can be spaghetti but the outside must be good and I'd be willing to go as far as bruteforcing the motor values and whatever else. Now the wright brothers weren't engineers, they weren't scientists. They were bicycle repairmen.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712671446529970.jpg","filename":"michelangelo1.jpg"},"posted":1712671446},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784147
You are the architect in your pairing. You are the useful idiot with the big ideas. You need an engineer to tell you how to design a mold properly and how big booba need to be to provide maximal stability while pounding top down bottom up.
No sane person would be doing this. You need to pay an engineer a lot of money to even think about helping you","attachment":null,"posted":1712673075},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784165,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2784158
I made the mold. He's only helped me with choosing the motors for the back and legs and the gear ratio. He also suggested I use nickel strips for the batteries. Either way I got a thick skin and I'm not going to get upset over everyone's comments. He probably won't help me with the booba cause again he's a Christian. I don't think he'll be helping me a whole lot moving forward but that's okay because I can take it from here.","attachment":null,"posted":1712674967},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783977
Sometimes a glider will periodically stall. I could find a book about limit cycles or other nonlinear DE topics in the design of gliders, where the goal is to create or limit such stalling, but maybe it would be academic without any practical effect on design. In other words, since the aerofoil is straightforward to solve, what do you add next?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712676474479851.jpg","filename":"main-qimg-3eabdb7074a6f434363eeafac228e74d-pjlq.jpg"},"posted":1712676474},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784225,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784175
If you're an engineer making a 70mn flying wing. You can do a lot of math to figure out weight distribution and lift and how unstable you want it to be and how your should lay out the fuel cells to maintain the balance.
If you're making an rc scale drone its probably easiest to just balance the wing with the battery and see if you want it to be tail or nose heavy by moving some weights around in another comparment.","attachment":null,"posted":1712682512},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2784260,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>just try stff out dude
https://youtu.be/FBN3xfGrx_U","attachment":null,"posted":1712687564},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785045,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784147
i've talked to some civil engineering students when still in school, and they had some projects were they had to work together with architects
they said that they were idiots that came up with the most impossible designs for their eyesores and would always complain if you dared to suggest you need a couple of pillars left and right to not make it collapse
if you're too cheap to hire boring engineers you're going to get yourself killed
>Now the wright brothers weren't engineers, they weren't scientists. They were bicycle repairmen
ok you're a halfwit but i already knew that","attachment":null,"posted":1712795088},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785074,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2785045
Oh threatening me are you. I don't know if an architect is the right person. I want someone to make the exterior look nice is what I meant. You can try to kill me but that won't change the fact that capitalism is over and we're living on borrowed time.
What was the profession of the wright brothers btw?","attachment":null,"posted":1712797649},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
I'm a biomed. engineer, so maybe a bit of a different perspective from what you'd want to hear.
>What happened to trying shit out?
We still do, but engineering isn't just trying shit out, its working with what you already know to pin down things you don't within acceptable parameters (i.e 'good enough'). This necessitates having an intuitive grasp of some concepts and sound rules to reason out what cannot be grasped on its own.
>That's what the OGs did in the early 1900s and it looks a lot more fun than how we're going about it today.
They had no choice. It was 'do it + write it down for later' or it won't get done until someone else does.
We *still* 'make do' with what we've got, it's just that we've got so much more.
Trying things out 'to see if it works' is less an engineer's task and more of a scientist's whole purpose (which is rare to see in the modern academic world, I agree, but that's a whole other thread)
Read up on how Osborne Reynolds popularized a handy way to approach the following question: How do you figure out if liquid flow in a tube will be turbulent/laminar?
Guy just built a machine + tested parameters in meticulous, absurd detail so no one would have to compute Navier-Stokes eq's for the fluid dynamics, which would be
a living nightmare for anyone trying to figure it out in the late 1800s (Stokes published them in 1851).
Reynold's number is just one example of how we reduce uncertainty by trying out a bunch of stuff, failing far more than anyone else just to AVOID more complex computation.
So yeah, you best bet that whenever an engineer plunges deep into math, it is out of necessity + training.
Small projects are good to nail workflow before moving into complex problems.","attachment":null,"posted":1712837246},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785287,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2785280
Well for example think of a robot kicking a ball. It has to stand in one leg, move one leg back, then move it forward and balance itself while doing it. This adds a whole another level of complexity. Then yeah you'd need more math and physics to know how gravity is playing out throughout it's body etc... does that mean you can't do it through trial and error? Not necessarily I think. Companies however do want to ensure their stuff is safe though. A car has to be engineered well and so does an airplane and specially construction. An inventor however does not have to be an engineer necessarily. It's an advantage. A prototype can be imperfect and then later given to engineers to be made perfect if its good. A robot kicking a ball can be done through trial and an error now it playing futbol well that's harder. Lastly there's the fact that you can offload some of the more complex math to the computer but you'd have to know where to look. For example I could simulate the stress on the robot spine and by doing that I can use less complex math. Unreal engine is not the right tool for the job but I am more comfortable with it. I think.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712838539285204.png","filename":"Thinking_Face_Emoji-Emoji-Island.png"},"posted":1712838539},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785280
>How do you figure out if liquid flow in a tube will be turbulent/laminar?
Why can't I find the canonical equation/chart for flow in a thin linear elastic tube? Surely it's just one more dimensionless parameter.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712851794497041.png","filename":"Variation-of-friction-factor-at-the-wall-of-stenosed-arterial-segment-having-a-single.png"},"posted":1712851794},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785287
yeah or you could just take a course in linear algebra and mechatronics to learn how transformation matrices are useful to translate servo positions and velocities into wanted leg motions instead of just "trying to see what werks" and end up with something that in the best case barely moves in 10 times the amount of time
at least with your dumb robot you're not killing anyone and only wasting your own time and effort because math is for nerds xD","attachment":null,"posted":1712886182},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2785610,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2785606
You might not be aware of the functionality of unreal engine but you'd be surprised. You can give the models body's bones weights differently by section. It has inverse kinematics. It even has springs and joints etc... I can also simulate the motor for the back and give it torque.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712887113812890.jpg","filename":"images (8).jpg"},"posted":1712887113},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785074
...there is a reason nothing is named after them.
i always get triggered when they are lauded as some geniuses that invented the airplane from scratch when in reality their only significant contributions were reinventing control surfaces and making a better propellor, while other people also made working airplanes at literally the same time
by the way if you sum up all their contributions including their patent wars that severly handicapped the american aviation industry for years it's actually negative
only ignorant clowns who got their education from watching history channel bring them up, they're on the same level as edison who also did significant damage out of greed and spite","attachment":null,"posted":1712968942},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786019,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785610
sure man if clowning around with a program without knowing what you're doing is how you pass your time then i won't stop you
has boston dynamics called yet?","attachment":null,"posted":1712969106},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786044,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2786019
I do have a good idea of what unreal engine can do and simulating a robot physics happens to be one of those things. Again is not the right tool for the job the fact that it happens to be good for this is coincidence.
https://m.youtube.com/@Lusiogenic","attachment":null,"posted":1712973673},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Become an arcitect not an engenier.","attachment":null,"posted":1712975554},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786066,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786044
this is like installing CFD or other software thinking it replaces fluid dynamic books
saw it even on here, someone made a thread about how thick a beam should be, just a beam supported on two ends with the load in the middle. a clown with a program simulated the load for a bunch of different weights and sizes to get the deflection when this problem is so simple you can just plug the numbers in a formula and do it with pen and paper in 5 minutes
his mesh was atrocious too. a rectangular beam is the easiest shape there is to make a mesh for
as for CFD, the results you get are about as good as the user's skill
you're namefagging about robots yet just reading a bit about mechatronics is too much too ask, no you just download some software because don't need no theory. the credibility of the results it spews out... who knows lol","attachment":null,"posted":1712977591},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786067,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786055
not trying to meme but they're more often than not legit homos
i see them as artists and not "people" who try to make things work","attachment":null,"posted":1712977724},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786146,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
The best part is i can still look at what you built and whatbothers built and just throw something togheter and it will work. Ni Hao.","attachment":null,"posted":1713000951},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2786484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785280
this transition is pretty important in aviation as well, especially at lower reynolds numbers
laminar separation, i was considering bringing up to glider anon but he's probably overthinking everything more than enough already","attachment":null,"posted":1713069652},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2787066,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786484
Glider anon, here, I thought about Reynold's numbers a little bit, I thought that using a fairly low Reynold's airfoil would compensate for the drag rudders. I know what Reynold's means to lift and drag, I just hope that I applied it correctly, the highest number I have is 100,000, so it is a fairly "clean" wing. I know hang gilders use a wing with a Reynold's number of 1,750,000, but this only makes sense for slow speeds. I know that load factors also affect things, though.","attachment":null,"posted":1713192337},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2787090,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786017
>there is a reason nothing is named after them.
Are you literally retarded?
>"Wright-Patterson AFB is "one of the largest, most diverse, and organizationally complex bases in the Air Force" with a long history of flight tests spanning from the Wright Brothers into the Space Age...."
>"NASA named the first Martian airfield for the Ingenuity helicopter "Wright Brothers Field". The miniature helicopter arrived on Mars on February 18, 2021, attached to the Perseverance rover. A small piece of wing fabric from the 1903 Wright Flyer was attached to a cable underneath Ingenuity's solar panel.
>In 1969, Neil Armstrong carried a similar Wright Flyer artifact to the Moon in the Lunar Module Eagle during Apollo 11.
>Ingenuity flew five times from Wright Brothers Field between April 19 and May 7, 2021, then departed for other areas, making a total of 72 flights"
>"Wright State University is a public research university in Fairborn, Ohio, United States. Originally opened in 1964 as a branch campus of Miami University and Ohio State University, it became an independent institution in 1967 and was named in honor of aviation pioneers Orville and Wilbur Wright, who were residents of nearby Dayton..."","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713196594730761.jpg","filename":"bd7a73ddb23692254b897abcc6981231-1822153752.jpg"},"posted":1713196594},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789121,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787090
i meant in a scientific context in case that wasn't obvious
brainlet","attachment":null,"posted":1713581935},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777355
About here is where it became clear you have no idea how modern engineering works.","attachment":null,"posted":1713593536},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
This is a result of people having access to computers. You wouldn't be calculating everything if you only had a slide rule and some tables. Engineering is not science and too many people think that if you use complex mathematical models to describe your problems somehow your answer is an absolute truth because look how precise it is. Meanwhile in reality tolerances are usually in 10-20% range if you even get provided with them in the first place. Pic related was designed in year of our lord 1248. Immediately throwing complex math at a problem is usually not the right approach. A model should be complex enough, approximations and empirical findings are fine, we're doing engineering, not science.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713597953355437.jpg","filename":"Cologne_cathedral_aerial_25326253726-1900655365.jpg"},"posted":1713597953},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789190
>. Engineering is not science and too many people think that if you use complex mathematical models to describe your problems somehow your answer is an absolute truth because look how precise it is.
Of course not, but it's foolish to think that having a mathematical answer doesn't help justify many design choices made and doesn't make actual implementation easier. Control theory made the design of steam governors from a game of seeing if your design worked with no sound reasoning behind it other than tinkering to a precise enough science that could be replicated and redesigned to fit your own parameters for said problem. The same can be said for any field of mathematics made before the great crisis and reconciliation due to the nature of infinity in the 1800s: Reasonable, accurate and replicable mathematics was seen as the building blocks of any successful engineering design. There's a reason mathematics and engineering were inseparable until math started dealing with more abstract concepts.
>Immediately throwing complex math at a problem is usually not the right approach. A model should be complex enough, approximations and empirical findings are fine, we're doing engineering, not science.
It depends on your use case. If you want to build an RC car to fuck around with, of course. If you want to build electrical circuits, process digital signals or do any sort of engineering that isn't basic like robotics, power signals or fluid dynamics, you will have to understand complex mathematics in order to get the most meaningful results to base your model off of. The Internet runs of of the theory Claude Shannon laid out in the 40s and 50s and to engineer better tele-communication systems, you have to know that as a basis for whatever work you are doing. (cont.)","attachment":null,"posted":1713599155},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789193
(cont.)
Same principle goes for any field and even the people that build that cathedral there knew it too since a lot of structural design can be reduced to geometry, which an architect of the 1200s knew as a prerequisite to being an architect. Engineers look down on mathematics too much and it's almost always to their detriment because there are certain axioms, empirical data and approximations that makes the model easy to solve with mathematics and also much easier to implement and check if the work done is correct (irl and on paper). This is almost entirely a modern attitude because every society that has delved deep into mathematics did it for some practical engineering purpose (e.g. the Greeks'/Egyptians' obsession with geometry and seafaring, the explosion of calculus after Leibniz/Newton and the growth of the field of physical science, thermodynamics and the Industrial Revolution, etc) , so there is no need to distinguish between complex math and non-complex math. Just math you need to solve the engineering problem you have and math you don't.","attachment":null,"posted":1713599506},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789204,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789193
>If you want to build electrical circuits, process digital signals or do any sort of engineering that isn't basic like robotics, power signals or fluid dynamics, you will have to understand complex mathematics
You don't have to understand it, you just need to know how to use it. Mathematicians do the understanding part. I can use laplace transform to solve circuits, but I have no idea about intricate details of convergence, topological spaces or how to prove any of this. There just isn't enough time in one's lifetime to understand everything. Laplace transform in a mathematical sense is a complex operation, but from engineering point of view it gets rarely more complex than looking up a transform table.","attachment":null,"posted":1713602197},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789204
>You don't have to understand it, you just need to know how to use it.
Then what happens when you have edge cases that aren't easy to generalize? Communications people have to think about this all the time because that's a massive point of failure and they have to ensure their systems work within very tight bounds.Same thing for power systems people too. Math is a tool just as much as the tools you use on-site.
> Mathematicians do the understanding part. I can use laplace transform to solve circuits, but I have no idea about intricate details of convergence, topological spaces or how to prove any of this. There just isn't enough time in one's lifetime to understand everything.
That is a terrible attitude to have. Just because you can't learn everything about a subject that is important for your project doesn't mean you can't learn enough to get a good physical intuition of what it means or at the very least understand what is going on so you can apply it to cases that you have never seen before and might not be readily available to look up on a transform table. Something is better than nothing. It's a matter of whether getting a PhD in Pure Mathematics with a specialty in Operator Calculus is necessary or just a firm understanding of what a Laplace Transform is and how to do them generally to any sort of diff eq. you may find in addition to getting a sense of what is doing is enough.
I've heard it been said that engineers are consumers that understand what they are buying when it comes to math and mathematicians are producers. The best engineers are the ones that consume, but do so in a highly informed and tactical way rather than just because that was what was in front of them. Sometimes they end up being producers themselves, but their projects are the most successful due to them using the mathematical tools laid out in front of them in a way that ensured its success","attachment":null,"posted":1713605061},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789233,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789208
>Then what happens when you have edge cases that aren't easy to generalize?
Then you move one level deeper. There is no point in spending time pondering some advanced graph theory just to solve a basic problem. Deadline will come before you'll be able to understand even 1% of that advanced field. One can easily overdose on math and completely lose contact with reality. A great example of that would be modern physics (dark matter, cosmological constant problem, string theory). Or look at Artemis vs. Apollo program. To much knowledge of something will box you in certain thought patterns that can lead you in a completely wrong direction.","attachment":null,"posted":1713612924},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789233
>Then you move one level deeper. There is no point in spending time pondering some advanced graph theory just to solve a basic problem.
You should only consume when you need to not only understand the problem but to generalize it and solve similar problems like it. That's hardly pondering advanced graph theory on a PhD level and more like a basic undergrad or maybe master's level introduction to the material. It's perfectly doable if you really know what you are looking for in your engineering design.
>One can easily overdose on math and completely lose contact with reality.
That's more of a problem of not picking out what's important and what's not. There are many tells that something is so abstract and/or so pathological, you will never see it in real life at all meanwhile things like the Wiener–Khinchin theorem have effectively been implemented irl in DSP systems due to their ability to analyze linear time invariant systems (or their reasonable approximations) that aren't able to have their power spectrum analyzed with conventional Fourier methods. I'm not saying you have to do a deep dive; you just can't plug-and-chug and expect to get a reasonably good system when there's no theoretical basis versus a reasonably slim but solid theoretical basis, just like every other field.
> A great example of that would be modern physics (dark matter, cosmological constant problem, string theory).
A lot of that is physicists making up theories that are mathematically sound but not testable. It's not the maths fault that physicists decided to not to be physicists. Again, it's the person wielding the tool's fault, not the tool.","attachment":null,"posted":1713619616},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789264,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789259
>Or look at Artemis vs. Apollo program.
NASA's budget has been slashed drastically after the Cold War. A lot of the motivation for getting to the Moon is gone now that there is no ideological component to it. That in addition to the large amount of people who can calculate equations but not understand them now versus the people that had to understand why they were using this equation and where it came from in addition (a lot of the original people working for NASA were applied mathematicians and physicists) or else, we just killed the entire crew.
> To much knowledge of something will box you in certain thought patterns that can lead you in a completely wrong direction.
That makes no sense. You can easily pick out whats relevant and irrelevant for your problem at hand. You don't even need to get super deep into the proofs the way a mathematician would. What's important is that you understand the relevant theory, the major points regarding it and the intuition and connection to the problem you are doing. No one is asking you nor expecting you to retread old ground, but if you want to use said theory in your project, you should have a firm grasp on how and when to use it, just like any other tool. Going into navel gazing abstract nonsense for an engineering is pointless but doing the exact opposite and ignoring all of it just to use the theory without knowing how it works is just as foolish. And you can do this rather quickly as in a matter of hours or so. Just go to wikipedia and go over the theory of what you want to apply to your project. It's exactly the same as going over programming documentation before actually programming.","attachment":null,"posted":1713620277},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789302,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789259
>Again, it's the person wielding the tool's fault, not the tool.
The problem here is that the tool is able to modify the fundamental properties of a person who uses it. Math changes your thought patterns, sometimes this can be beneficial other times not so much and can in worst cases work against you. You learn math and start to see world in a certain way. But what if learning a certain math concept prevented you from seeing the world in a different way that could better fit your application? Sometimes knowledge from other fields can help you even if you don't see the connection at first. I'm sure you've seen numerous examples where nature was used as an inspiration to solve certain problems.
>>2789264
>That in addition to the large amount of people who can calculate equations but not understand them now versus the people that had to understand
I don't think understanding is a problem here. People have much deeper understanding of math than in the past. I'm sure there are still top talent applied mathematicians working at NASA. Aside from budget issues the main problem with artemis is overcomplexity and insufficient grounding in reality mostly thanks to Musk and retards who listen to him. Apollo was $257B (adjusted to inflation), artemis $93B. Considering a lot of things were already worked out in the past reduced budget shouldn't really be an issue. Here it also shows why adding more complex math can't solve everything. While equations remained, other knowledge was lost. Kind of knowledge you can't just conjure with a bit of math and a piece of paper.
>You can easily pick out whats relevant and irrelevant for your problem at hand.
Can you really? It all comes down to if you think you have control over subconscious processes that have influence over your conscious thoughts. There will always be a bias towards certain things. If you use something that you used before you'll be more likely to keep using that thing even though there might exist a better way.","attachment":null,"posted":1713624960},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789314,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789302
>Math changes your thought patterns, sometimes this can be beneficial other times not so much and can in worst cases work against you.
>But what if learning a certain math concept prevented you from seeing the world in a different way that could better fit your application?
What? I'm speaking from experience as a person who has gone pretty deep into mathematics and still is doing fine in my Electrical Engineering program. You have to determine what's important and what's not and it becomes very evident what matters to your current project and what doesn't almost immediately or if not immediately, in a short period of time. I've only seen math positively or neutrally affect a project's success. I'm not going to go dive deep into the realm of computational geometry or even differential geometry outside of R^3 even though that is the basis of the math I learned to accomplish what I want with my current project .
I don't know where that came from. The people that try to overdo it with the mathematical basis of their project/work tend to do it because they don't understand the core question they want to answer, the core pieces of theoretical information you need to solve it and making the connections yourself or are actively bragging about their mathematical acumen. You don't turn a simple geometry problem into one of higher dimensional topology unless you don't know what you're doing or are showing off. It's not a passive, subconcious process. It is very much active and in the forefront of your mind. The physicists that make string theory untestable do so because they don't understand what science is or want to get grant money and fame, not because math warped their brain or something.
I understand you are talking about how math changes your thought patterns, but it changes it in such a way that you pick up on things that make solving the problem at hand easier. I've never see a person learn math and have a problem become more difficult.","attachment":null,"posted":1713627002},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789319,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789314
All that thinking you need can be summed up as: identifying the problem, simplifying the problem to make it more palatable/easier, solving that problem and applying that solution to the real physical model as much as it can be applied. The theory part only comes into play as a thesaurus of possible tools to make all these methods generalizable to multiple systems. I've even seen a book about the mathematics of robotic system kinematics and dynamics, so I'm not saying anything revolutionary here: a reasonable amount of mathematical theory (something an undergraduate or master's student can understand depending on what you're doing) is probably necessary to get work done, but it goes a long way and often is necessary for a lot of more complex real life problems.","attachment":null,"posted":1713627372},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789335,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789314
>I've never see a person learn math and have a problem become more difficult.
I see this all the time. People messing about with complex models when it's clear that whole concept is fundamentally flawed. Result is lots of pretty CGI, FEM simulation results and pretty plots, but not a working product. Same thing happened with coof pandemic. Some "scientists" created an elaborate infection model, fed in garbage data into already flawed model, told us we will all die and as a result fucked up economy and countless lives. Instead of focusing on observations we trusted some questionable math because of course it's the absolute truth (that can be molded to whatever one wants), just look at those equations, it's like a word of god. How dare you criticize pandemic response if you don't even understand all the math? As with any tool you can build a nice house with a chainsaw, but it can also saw your whole leg off if you aren't careful. As convenient as math is, we still aren't sure that it represents our reality completely, it works remarkably well, but there are still holes and unknowns at fundamental level.","attachment":null,"posted":1713630028},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789338,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789335
>Result is lots of pretty CGI, FEM simulation results and pretty plots, but not a working product.
You said it yourself. The entire concept was flawed from the beginning, so no amount of math will make that work.
>Result is lots of pretty CGI, FEM simulation results and pretty plots, but not a working product.
And? That's an implementation problem, not the problem of math itself.
> Same thing happened with coof pandemic.
All of what you listed is just people misusing a tool for personal/political/financial motives. If you use a hammer as a wrench and it doesn't work, it's not the hammer's fault: it's yours for not understanding how to use it. It's the same sort of shit you see with polling firms and how they cook the data to get the results they want. Again, not a problem with math. That's user error.
You are really highly opinionated for something you clearly do not understand. That is not really a sign of someone that has any sort of competence to do anything that's close to engineering.","attachment":null,"posted":1713631912},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789338
>As convenient as math is, we still aren't sure that it represents our reality completely, it works remarkably well, but there are still holes and unknowns at fundamental level.
That is actually the most retarded I've heard today, especially considering the proven successes of the highly mathematical physical classical, thermodynamic, quantum and special/general relativity theories (and their more prominent sub-theories) . We live in an age where mathematics dictates large swathes of how we describe the physical world and have for at least 2000 years, with this model becoming better and better as time moves on. Literally, entire civilizations have been built and discovered due to geometry and calculus paved the way for us finding a way to model change in the world and hence make dynamical systems that are the basis of engineering for the past 300 years. We have mathematical models of nature that are so accurate, they can predict physical phenomena with an error of 1 part in about 1,000,000,000. That's an extremely accurate representation of reality. that's not to mention the highly accurate mathematical physical models that go into things like planes, network communications, integrated circuits and even physics that has an actual experimental basis. Just because some people misuse mathematics to do evil things with the pandemic doesn't mean math is bad and false. It just means you have to red between the lines and see if they are falsifying or misrepresenting data, which is always possible. But that's not the fault of math that people have a penchant for lying for their own benefit: it's the fault of the people lying.
If you aren't able to do math, don't do it. It really seems like you aren't able to think clearly enough to do it. But don't blame it for what amounts to user error and don't call it useless when the people who made the mathematical tools you use now used it specifically to solve physical problems. That is amazingly idiotic and ignorant.","attachment":null,"posted":1713632181},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789347,"name":"robotwaifutechnician","msg":">>2789340
Simulations may not be as fast and precise as math. But some day they will be.","attachment":null,"posted":1713633699},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789348,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
>american engineering
Can't speak for every country, of course, ubt at least in Germany and Japan (the two countries I studied in), engineering labs are usually "Here's a bunch of materials, try not to kill yourselves. See you next week". For your RC car example, we'd have calculated the torque of the engine to get the maximum gearing that could still move the car (assuming a somewhat high weight), then eyeballed the rest.
This whole "calulate everything and do nothing" bs is pretty much exclusive to people from "good" american universities from what I've seen. Same people who usually failed their foreign semesters...","attachment":null,"posted":1713633707},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789350,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789347
>Simulations may not be as fast and precise as math. But some day they will be.
They literally are mathematical operations on dynamical systems. There's a reason why the dynamics/kinematics of a system are called the equations of motion.","attachment":null,"posted":1713634130},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789357,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789338
>The entire concept was flawed from the beginning
Yes, but why was it flawed? Could it be that too much math made people too arrogant to consider otherwise?
>And? That's an implementation problem, not the problem of math itself.
Problem wouldn't exist without math. You need finite element theory before you can run such simulations.
>All of what you listed is just people misusing a tool
That's what I'm trying to emphasize. It's not that people are using hammers as wrenches. It's people using n-dimensional hammers with infinite nails to hang pictures on walls. Math is incredibly easy to misuse.
>You are really highly opinionated for something you clearly do not understand. That is not really a sign of someone that has any sort of competence to do anything that's close to engineering.
Maybe I don't... But all great analog electronics engineers such as Jim Williams say
>He never confused description with understanding. When he would give seminars on how to design piezoelectric transformer lamp drivers, he pointed out that professors who fill the blackboard with math really don't know how a circuit works. Jim knew that the math can describe how a circuit works but understanding how it works was a much more fundamentally intuitive and poetic endeavor.
And if you've ever done something practical (in physical world, not in software) you would quickly come to the same conclusion. Engineering is more than just complex math. That doesn't mean that advanced math is useless, but more often than not a simple "back of the envelope" solution will be good enough.","attachment":null,"posted":1713634509},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789364,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789340
>We have mathematical models of nature that are so accurate, they can predict physical phenomena with an error of 1 part in about 1,000,000,000. That's an extremely accurate representation of reality.
If you'd read the fine print this accuracy applies to a result of experiments under certain conditions. We only know that under those conditions model is accurate. Whatever happens when some other variable comes into a play nobody knows. I'm sure 10-20 years down the road there will be another crisis in physics because some different experiment will produce statistically significant discrepancy. Considering how evil and corrupt academia has been lately I would be careful about being too enthusiastic about the precision. Our knowledge of reality is still very primitive in the grand scheme of things and that 1 part in about 1,000,000,000 could be completely off and realty is doing something entirely different.
>If you aren't able to do math, don't do it.
What is this now? A math dick measuring contest? Yes, yes, I'm the idiot, you're the smartest guy in this thread.","attachment":null,"posted":1713635800},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789190
19th century actually. and with these old buildings there is also a very strong survivor bias you need to be aware of, you only see the ones that are still standing","attachment":null,"posted":1713635973},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789377,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789340
>We have mathematical models of nature that are so accurate, they can predict physical phenomena with an error of 1 part in about 1,000,000,000. That's an extremely accurate representation of reality.
turbulence says hi","attachment":null,"posted":1713636971},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789379,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789364
>If you'd read the fine print this accuracy applies to a result of experiments under certain conditions. We only know that under those conditions model is accurate. Whatever happens when some other variable comes into a play nobody knows. I'm sure 10-20 years down the road there will be another crisis in physics because some different experiment will produce statistically significant discrepancy.
It's literally a result of Heisenberg's principle: there's no such thing as a perfect measurement. 1 part in 1,000,000,000 is basically perfect and 1 part in 1,000,000 is a very good approximation.There's nothing wrong with the theory, you physically can't get better results because the measurements get fuzzier after that point.
>Considering how evil and corrupt academia has been lately I would be careful about being too enthusiastic about the precision. Our knowledge of reality is still very primitive in the grand scheme of things and that 1 part in about 1,000,000,000 could be completely off and realty is doing something entirely different.
MUH EVIL ACADEMIA. You're just retarded.
>What is this now? A math dick measuring contest? Yes, yes, I'm the idiot, you're the smartest guy in this thread.
I'm saying you're an idiot that failed out of college or high school and is blaming academia/education for your own personal failures regarding retaining mathematical knowledge and not being able to apply it to the world at large, like an actual engineer should do. it has nothing with me being some sort of super genius and everything with you being an underachiever and general idiot. You're basically like the average 4chan user that makes this his life instead of a hobby to waste time
>>2789377
That's why you build wings that are resistant to turbulence, which can be done via simulations and test flights. Not really a problem.","attachment":null,"posted":1713637156},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I fucking wish I were as smart and motivated to build shit as you all. I got my degree in industrial and manufacturing engineering instead of MechE out of interest. I was the kid that liked How It's Made instead of all this car and plane design shit. Is there a way to be a cool engineer but not have to jerry rig shit together all the time?","attachment":null,"posted":1713637245},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789379
>You're basically like the average 4chan user that makes this his life instead of a hobby to waste time
You're the one who started posting walls of text to impress people on the internet and own some retard that failed out of high school. Go solve some differential equations to calm down your autism.","attachment":null,"posted":1713637819},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789419,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789386
I'm not trying to impress you. I don't know you, I don't care about you and you are rather contemptible for thinking a high school dropout knows jackshit about math or engineering. I just like shitting on stupid people that think they know it all like you because honestly they need to be reminded they're fucking idiots.
Eat shit you retard. You can't even pass high school. What makes you think you have any right to tell anyone what's maths place in engineering when you haven't even gone past high school math? Fucking arrogant prick. At least a normalfaggot would disengage and realize they're out of they're depth with shit they aren't able to learn. Imagine thinking you are more intelligent than people who put blood sweat and tears into an Engineering or Math PhD just because you can RC cars. Fucking delusional retard. Go back to your autism pen and play with your kiddie toys.","attachment":null,"posted":1713640195},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789434,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789419
*their depth","attachment":null,"posted":1713641516},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789436,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789419
So much butthurt. Having a bad day? I don't know why you're so upset over some pointless argument over the internet?
>Eat shit you retard.
>Fucking arrogant prick.
>Fucking delusional retard.
This has to be funniest rageposting I've read in a while.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJDNkVDGM_s","attachment":null,"posted":1713641623},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789439,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777355
This post proves you think way too highly of yourself
We all want you to waste your life spitballing stuff so we can all forget you exist
"Natural engineers" don't exist
The people who actually solve real problems and create new things toil for years and years and years doing tests and math and gathering data until they make it
You're literally trying to "happily ever after" design and invention
This isn't a fairy tale, this is real life","attachment":null,"posted":1713642001},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2789587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789436
>So much butthurt.
Why would I be butthurt by a person that doesn't even know what they are talking about? You're an idiot and the only catharsis and freedom from that fact is projecting your worthlessness onto me. Like why would anyone be upset by what an uneducated high school dropout has to say, especially one that can't even do engineering properly like even the most braindead engineer has to?
>>2789439
/thread.","attachment":null,"posted":1713661492},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2790308,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789379
the point was that mathematical models can only get you so far. turbulence for example is notoriously difficult to resolve
"test flights", sure, that will get you the vibrations the vortices cause over the pipes in a nuclear reactor. "Not really a problem" when you have a supercomputer and lots of time and even then the results can be open for interpretation","attachment":null,"posted":1713816171},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2790340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"brainlets disparage one or the other, the true blue american jew uses both (where appropriate) to get shit done because results make money","attachment":null,"posted":1713819721},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2790579,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790308
That's fair. You can't model absolutely everything in a system using math because the real world has so many variables and it is constantly changing. There still is value in using mathematical models to get the fundamentals of your system in order though just like there is value in considering other sources of inspiration in your design.
Engineers aren't mathematicians, but we can use their results to improve our designs.","attachment":null,"posted":1713873645},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2790644,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
At home I fuck around and find out. At work I run the numbers and do it the boring way, mostly because I need to justify everything. Plus if something doesn't work right, I can look back and compare numbers. When it's a serious project at home I might do some math but not always.
>t mechanical engineer","attachment":null,"posted":1713885681},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792173,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777503
>which has terminal Boeing mentality
you mean they're indian or they want to fill the glider with people and crash into the ground while pocketing the difference?","attachment":null,"posted":1714205165},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792693,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790644
this. it's not black and white
when you get paid for minmaxing and have to explain your choices then yes you better do the math","attachment":null,"posted":1714299280},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792698,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789365
That is true for the upper third of the towers and the main structure without the actual sacral half circle. The foundations were already in place when they finally got around to continue it after 500 years.
The guy was simply experienced and knew what had worked in France on other churches. That being said it is not without flaws. The main columns along the pews are sagging slightly inward due to having to support the high vaulted ceilings and are actively being monitored. They are simply a bit too thin for their job.
Regarding the foundations he went quite overboard with them extending down a dozen meters onto even older churches and made from layered sandstone and granite piles. Which happen to be just flexible enough to make the church quite resistant to earthquakes.
All in all a mixture of experience, conservative rules of thumb and an anality to keeping walls straight over their whole height.","attachment":null,"posted":1714302308},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778176
fuck off glowie","attachment":null,"posted":1714307775},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792718,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777384
Form is about countless intangibles. That's why a painting someone spends 100 hours on is better than one with 20 hours. That's why a lifelong musician will have style elements amateurs won't. That's why songs you know are uncanny valley when a new player just attacks them after reading the tab.
I used to be about pure function in most things. idk why it too me so long to use the skills I had gained to shift my focus to form, but it's a big step in my overall standard of living. I would say this can be aesthetic, ergonomics, textures, or several things people favor but might not consciously process. Levels of refinement take a great deal more time and effort to execute. You can charge a fortune for the work. There is a bit of magic because you're often working without a clear final goal or are working against defined limitations.","attachment":null,"posted":1714308051},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792698
kind of a miracle it mostly survived the allied bombings. the one in dresden collapsed because it got so hot inside the bricks started to crack
on topic there are plenty of churches and buildings that collapsed and we are only left with the paintings, or churches that according to structural engineers shouldn't be standing.
i would rather live in a house where someone did the math than where someone eyeballed everything because that's how his grandfather did it
>do i really need an engineering degree to do X
no, but it helps","attachment":null,"posted":1714310890},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792755,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
A lot of things were invented by just trying shit out, problem now is that we have reached a point where optimization is interesting and not necessarily inventing.
See Gas turbines for example work at max 1400 degrees celsius. What are we doing now? We started to cool the turbine blades, so they don't melt. You can't just say "let's drill a couple of holes into that bad boy and put water as cooling fluid into it and see what happens.
What would happen? The engine would obviously blow, in addition with such a sheer force that the roof would probably fall apart (100MW engine).
I'm not saying you shouldn't have your fun in doing something new, but projects are costly, so a good planning is important. We are far ahead the stage of just sticking a couple of rags on wood and call it a plane. We know the ideal designs for such things, now only the calculations are left to do for a specific use case.
>t. chemical enginner","attachment":null,"posted":1714316081},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792833,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792755
You make it sound like pilot plants aren't a thing.","attachment":null,"posted":1714329147},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792912,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have so many ideas but as a small apartment living asshole I have no access to a proper machine shop or equipment. I think this is the biggest hurdle for people these days. With unlimited access to a proper shop I could make all sorts of things ive been imagining.","attachment":null,"posted":1714338849},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792912
and none of them would work","attachment":null,"posted":1714341519},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792936,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792833
he was specifically talking about a turbine. the first stage is usually the limiting factor of how high the temperature and pressure can go (the higher the better, see carnot) so they actually managed to make mono crystalline turbine blades and air cooling is also a thing i guess but the course about turbines and gas turbines has been a while","attachment":null,"posted":1714341824},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2792982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792833
oh and i actually have been behind a control pannel in a training centrum of a gas power plant
they had given us the simple task of shutting down the turbine but no one could. my idea was to just cut off the gas, it will turn off eventually even though it would be ugly but we would do what was asked. and even that was a challenge. yes i failed
fuck me yes i don't know how to operate a gas power plant in 5 minutes. i've seen a control room up close and there's at least a dozen of people there","attachment":null,"posted":1714347832},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793086,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777446
>>2777676
>>2778182
>Get a degree in mechanical engineering and then get a job in design engineering.
Design engineering is something of a unicorn job, you're going to need more than just a basic ME background to snag the job. Also understand that a lot of the artsy and UI side of design is actually its own field, Industrial Design.
To have a shot at a design engineering job, you're going to need an extremely solid CAD background and ideally a portfolio of projects to show off. It's also going to help if you have a solid understanding of GD&T, so your part drawings are very clearly understandable by outside parties (especially details like what tolerances you're making different features on your parts to).","attachment":null,"posted":1714362399},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793086
this is what one of the teachers told us, you're not going to reinvent the wheel, you're going to to maintenance work and looking at tables will be your bread and butter
at least he wasn't spreading delusions. the teacher that came before him actually sort of invented a welding technique that made him loaded but i'm not going to do that, i'm dumb
i don't know anything about welding and material science to me is a black hole. steel bends and twists in a certain way but that's it","attachment":null,"posted":1714386671},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793224,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785362
>Why can't I find the canonical equation/chart for flow in a thin linear elastic tube?
there isn't one. i don't know the specifics of what you're trying to do but laminar flow in a pipe was already aids enough, this is something else entirely. seems like a subject worthy of a master dissertation","attachment":null,"posted":1714397033},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793247,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793224
It's already been done, it's just that it hasn't been summarized in a way that retards like me can easily use.","attachment":null,"posted":1714399804},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793263,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793247
i tell myself that i know quite a bit about fluid dynamics but blood flow in a human body, ehh
you're not retarded, i don't know the specifics but i'm already gagging just by thinking about it","attachment":null,"posted":1714401014},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793327,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785362
how in the world deos somebody end up with that in their name","attachment":null,"posted":1714408444},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793332,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789439
>"Natural engineers" don't exist
They do, though.","attachment":null,"posted":1714408991},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789379
>wings that are resistant to turbulence
can you elaborate?","attachment":null,"posted":1714422682},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793187
I strongly encourage investigating Industrial Design courses if you want to get into stuff like product design. Ideally a certificate in it could open some doors, but again if you show a flair for it in your personal projects that might be enough.","attachment":null,"posted":1714422955},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2793469,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793459
my ambitions have long gone lol. there was a job interview when i was still green where i expressed my interests in aviation but that was torpedoed immediately
i'm also a passive twat. initiative too spicey
and design, did you miss the part where i said i'm dumb? i even refused a phd partially because of this reason. the teacher said it was an oppurtinity and if i refused the position would be filled by yet another chick or a pajeet
LES, they can have it","attachment":null,"posted":1714423795},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795400,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777446
>I wanna be an inventor so bad man
Can you reasonably come up with a new idea on how to make something more efficient/streamlined? Most "inventors" just have a eureka moment. If you are good at connecting the dots this should come naturally.","attachment":null,"posted":1714824434},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795402,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784147
>Now the wright brothers weren't engineers, they weren't scientists. They were bicycle repairmen.
To be fair its not like they woke up one day and started building a 737, but they did get the initial idea 'off the ground'.","attachment":null,"posted":1714825025},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
the chad rule of thumb vs the virgin "my calculations say..."","attachment":null,"posted":1714825547},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795408,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795402
To be fair...
>The Wrights developed basic techniques still used by all modern aeronautical engineers, such as their pioneering use of the wind tunnel.
>Systematic flight testing was critical to the Wrights success. Their method of evaluating data gathered in these tests, then refining their design based on the results, remains an important tool in aerospace research and development.
>A key term in the lift and drag equations was Smeaton’s coefficient, which accounted for the density of air. A value for the coefficient of 0.005 had been widely used since the 1700s. Using measurements obtained from their glider tests at Kitty Hawk and the lift equation, the Wright brothers calculated a new average value of 0.0033 for Smeaton’s coefficient. Modern aerodynamicists have confirmed this figure to be very accurate.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714827495226462.jpg","filename":"wright-brothers-wind-tunnel-01.jpg"},"posted":1714827495},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784147
Bicycle repair in their era was far from just parts replacement so they needed all the skills relevant to making and modding bicycles and components including making much of their own equipment.
That was an era where it was worth torch welding shattered castings (like auto engine blocks). They would have been well read and studied far more than a modern parts swapper. It was typical for any decent machine shop to have its own small foundry to make parts which are weldments today. The Wrights were officially bicycle repairmen and made money doing it but that job title should not define them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714843146},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795408
so they used already existent technology like the wind tunnel and corrected a wrong constant that in reality isn't constant
this is why i hold theoretical contributions in higher regard
>Wright brothers calculated a new average value of 0.0033 for Smeaton’s coefficient. Modern aerodynamicists have confirmed this figure to be very accurate.
this is why you shouldn't take anything from wikpedia at face value because it's not accurate at all","attachment":null,"posted":1714843888},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792912
If you want that kind of life, integrate your interests completely into your life.
For example I wanted space, freedom to work as I see fit, and low cost of living in a slow growth area so I could have acreage, isolation and easily affordable (thanks to DIY) comfort. I was willing to do anything and go anywhere to get what I wanted so I got it. If a choice was briefly inconvenient well tough shit, I did it anyway. All it takes is determination and planning.","attachment":null,"posted":1714843985},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795577,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777374
high interest in the persona
thanks for the read anon","attachment":null,"posted":1714855353},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2795925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
>ON THE OTHER HAND IT'S NICE WHEN IT FUCKING WORKS
Then why doesn't it in so many cases, like my fucking dishwasher, egghead?","attachment":null,"posted":1714933431},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2798243,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777333
>777333
nice","attachment":null,"posted":1715403380},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2798247,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777276
Wait till you get to career engineering. It only gets worse.","attachment":null,"posted":1715404573},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2798251,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
That's how I feel, I look at my box of useless shit thinking "Oh, I can repurpose all this into something cool! It's not garbage!" Then I go to a project and realize that if I want to do it right I need to design and/or purchase materials and tools to do it right. Something I've learned is that you can do the job with shit tools, but they have to be the RIGHT tools. Same applies to the materials. Growing up I didn't really have access to that stuff and makerspaces weren't even thought of. I built one of those Proton Packs from Ghostbusters out of a shoe box when I was a little kid, I loved it of course, but it makes me appreciate the access I have to 3d printers, drills, and electrical wire (among other things) as an adult with money.","attachment":null,"posted":1715405637},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2800249,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777290
Disagree
It's more fun to have all the numbers and spreadsheets together and know something works inside and out, make a fake gay digital copy, show it to other people, let them steal it, realize you wasted years of your life only for lying faggots to cash in on your work while you regret not writing in some fatal flaw their goldfish minds can't comprehend.
That's much better than building something with your own to hands because THAT COSTS MONEY.","attachment":null,"posted":1715830728},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2800251,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777333
Personally I think there was an active effort to suppress and prevent Normies from learning that flight was possible.
It was one of the gay humiliation rituals/pipedream techs like fusion or quantum computers nowdays.
Then some fucking bike mechanics who must have flown under the radar were hosting airshows and everyone freaked out.","attachment":null,"posted":1715831026},{"board":"diy","thread":2777276,"pid":2800255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784147
Wright brothers were fucking autistic which is why it worked out for them.
Trying to apply their own autism to the legal realm and meeting a man named Langley arguably fucked them.","attachment":null,"posted":1715831587}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I decided to under cut my fireplace to install laminate flooring. It turned out okay all things considered.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713746507031171.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240421_090803028.jpg"},"posted":1713746507},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713746528905113.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240421_183609526.jpg"},"posted":1713746528},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I only broke out one brick on the corner to make room for other big pieces. It should be easy to grout back in with a squeeze tube.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713746604034480.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240421_183557530.jpg"},"posted":1713746604},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Holy fuck….run floor up to brick, leave1/4 gap
Silicone base shoe to flooring ….jesus dude","attachment":null,"posted":1713747159},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789986,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713748191644813.gif","filename":"pepe-cringe.gif"},"posted":1713748191},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2789989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If you don’t want to use adhesive angle your trim nailer and shoot the base shoe to the floor thru the gap.Not happening now…It still needs base shoe anyway. Sheeez …you could have also used a door way transition as trim….nope you chose the hardest most fucked up way possible.","attachment":null,"posted":1713748724},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790004,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Not picking on you op it looks good
But damn brother talk about an easy deal made hard and messy.","attachment":null,"posted":1713750885},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790023,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I like seeing people make the effort to make things look nice, instead of just slapping on some quarter round.","attachment":null,"posted":1713752489},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790026,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790023
Youre a fucking idiot it needs trimmed even after that shit show. Never in 40+ years have I EVER seen anyone under cut brick EVER","attachment":null,"posted":1713753043},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790042,"name":"Prez/o/","msg":">>2789975
Smart move bud. Allowing an 1/8” gap for movement and finishing with a quarter round makes far too much sense, you did the right thing.","attachment":null,"posted":1713755434},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790044,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
lol","attachment":null,"posted":1713755684},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790047,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It's never going to look quite right unless you add a little trim over the top. Mainly because the brain sees 'brick above wood' and knows that shit doesn't make any sense structurally. You need to re-introduce the impression that the brick continues downwards to ground, and adding trim at this edge is the only good way to achieve this now.","attachment":null,"posted":1713755845},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790052,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790042
>>2790023
>>2789975
Samefagging cringefest leave diy now never to return.","attachment":null,"posted":1713756570},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790064,"name":"Prez/o/","msg":">>2790052
Stupid newfag, each time your shitty laminate floor creaks due to improper expansion gap think of my fat cock sliding in your mothers anus","attachment":null,"posted":1713758307},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790118,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"That looks like shit and no hearth is probably not to code","attachment":null,"posted":1713777769},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790136,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790064
Being this stupid….is there an adult there with you Lester ?","attachment":null,"posted":1713783741},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Had to show this one around the shop this morning
Great laughs to start the week off","attachment":null,"posted":1713788355},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey OP cant wait to see you undercut the bath tub","attachment":null,"posted":1713788419},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"OP would respond but hes still cleaning the dust from the whole fucking house
>>2790118
Derp derp","attachment":null,"posted":1713788837},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
if that's a working fireplace, it needs min 16 inches of tile in front of it for the occasional flying ember","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713790558693803.jpg","filename":"tile in front of fireplace.jpg"},"posted":1713790558},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
how do you even have the skills to do this and still come up with this shit?","attachment":null,"posted":1713790760},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790164,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
>OP doesn't ask how do I laminate
>OP doesn't ask how do I brick
>OP doesn't ask what is that wood that goes around edges
>OP uses tools
>OP does a project
>project looks nice
>/diy/ loses it's fucking mind","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713792226956019.jpg","filename":"OPdiyoes.jpg"},"posted":1713792226},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790166,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790158
My guess is a diamond blade on a side cutting grinder…the dust had to be off the chart","attachment":null,"posted":1713792328},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790168,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790164
>OP defends herself again","attachment":null,"posted":1713792416},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
>>2790023
>>2790042
>>2790164
Same fagging continues","attachment":null,"posted":1713792665},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790186,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790118
It seems to be an american thing
I saw someone on /out/ put a wood burner on top of beige fucking carpet","attachment":null,"posted":1713796317},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790186
Yeah fuck you its an idiot thing nigger","attachment":null,"posted":1713797891},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790192
An idiot thing only americans seem to do","attachment":null,"posted":1713799346},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790240,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Based retard. Looks nice.","attachment":null,"posted":1713805826},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790302,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Ok here. Not same fagging like some retard hopes. I'm doing the whole upstairs in one piece floating floor, no transitions. I'm not going to use trim on brick, then I'd have to grout/caulk that to the brick and it would never look good. Maybe I'll do something different on my basement fireplace.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713815919595424.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240421_183624296.jpg"},"posted":1713815919},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790309,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789976
>>2789977
Caulk that hole boy. You won't want to regret having fleas under the floor.","attachment":null,"posted":1713816376},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790312,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790157
That must come from some sissy code book. You ever actually ran a hot fireplace before? If a spark is flying, you best believe it'll kobe bryant past 16 inches","attachment":null,"posted":1713816511},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790320,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789976
>>2789977
looks good
fuck them haters","attachment":null,"posted":1713816938},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790322,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790302
>whole upstairs in one piece floating floor,
anything other than carpet upstairs is woeful lol.
>americans wear shoes indoors
i love sitting in my house hearing cunts stomp and clatter around upstairs lol
>>2789975
you know what fair play for doing it, no idea what cunts are on about dust or whatever clearly you are going manual mode making a reasonable job of it.
>>2790047
this is my only concern, personally i would look at it and think hold on...
>>2790157
looks like ops brick is what the hearth sits on. there is already some tile up there and then an odd looking trim (odd looking because theres only breaks for the corners lol is it plastic?)
i would have just tried to mirror the top edging on the bottom.","attachment":null,"posted":1713817080},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790322
>anything other than carpet upstairs is woeful lol
Fuck that the house has carpet upstairs when we bought it. Dog piss soaked carpets. The corner trim on the brick is foam, presumably for "safety". We have 2 small kids so I'll keep it on for now.","attachment":null,"posted":1713817786},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790341,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Why do you want to make it look like firebrick is bearing on wood?","attachment":null,"posted":1713819958},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
thats some good meth, nice job!","attachment":null,"posted":1713832697},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790412,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790411
You win the internet today","attachment":null,"posted":1713833207},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790448,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790026
Quarter round in any house is shit tier nigger work it's fucking ugly brother","attachment":null,"posted":1713838282},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2790452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790448
I so agree you’re on point","attachment":null,"posted":1713838540},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791407,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Diamond blade on a jamb saw
t. Hardwood floor guy","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714014709869137.jpg","filename":"49678908.jpg"},"posted":1714014709},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791409,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791407
Used a diamond blade on my angle grinder. Almost finished the room now, just wrapped the otherwise of the fire place. I have 4.87 rows to go, feels good not having a tiny piece at the end.
t. OP","attachment":null,"posted":1714015633},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791428,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791407
is this as sketchy to use as a toe kick saw?","attachment":null,"posted":1714022130},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791498,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
>Posting on /Diy/
>Not poorly rebuilding your entire fireplace to fix an easily fixed, often encountered problem
You're doing it wrong, OP","attachment":null,"posted":1714047673},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791500,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789976
>That gap
You should have lowered the whole fireplace, anon","attachment":null,"posted":1714047783},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790448
this 100% quarter round anywhere looks like absolute dogshit. OPs work looks clean and nearly seamless. fuck all you autistic collars who think "bUt BrIcK sHoUlDnT bE oN wOoD" fuck you it looks way nicer than transition and caulk.","attachment":null,"posted":1714053378},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2791700,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791525
Thanks some of these retards don't even own tools let alone a house. Ive been doing it piecemeal after working my full time job. Wrapped the otherwise of the fireplace yesterday, I chipped the board a bit but plan on building a book shelf there anyway. Just 1 full row and a partial left to do.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714090333920607.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240425_063506356.jpg"},"posted":1714090333},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792559,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Complete","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714266545399807.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240427_081810994.jpg"},"posted":1714266545},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Nice try queer","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714267256682502.jpg","filename":"IMG_3145.jpg"},"posted":1714267256},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792568,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790157
Just get a steel mesh ember guard . Problem solved","attachment":null,"posted":1714267572},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792570,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792566
He shouldn't have tried a project this scale for his first diy. Obviously.
>>2792559
There's always next time OP! Bonus marks for the dedication without a pussy assed question uttered. You f'ed up all by yourself and I'm proud of you.","attachment":null,"posted":1714267659},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792896,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790026
As flooring installer with over 20 years of experience, I always undercut the hearth. It looks better and is fairly simple to do with anyone of 3 methods.
1. An undercut saw
2. A grinder
3. An oscillating saw","attachment":null,"posted":1714337065},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792901,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Nice job anon. Looks very professional. That is the proper way. I usually use my oscillating saw with a shop vac attachment. They make a special saw for undercutting brick and stone, but the price is absurd, and I have yet to find one at any tool rental places.","attachment":null,"posted":1714337718},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792903,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792566
>>2792570
Are you that same faggot from earlier samefagging about the quarter round? Upset because any retard can do your job and better than you at that? Sorry nigger turns out installing laminate floors and baseboard isn't actually a skilled trade and you are equivalent to a Mexican roofer in respectability and skill","attachment":null,"posted":1714337985},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2792940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Shloppy work….only retards would do this","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714343031150140.jpg","filename":"IMG_3147.jpg"},"posted":1714343031},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793023,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792942
>>2792903
>>2792570
Not involved in any of this shit. truthfully I have seen laminate fuck ups cause huge gaping holes down the line, but I cant fathom why anyone would be this tilted over something like this. Plenty of houses built the normal way have weird shit like this anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1714353807},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792559
looks good to me op even if i think you are kind of crazy. better than 90% of the threads on here","attachment":null,"posted":1714356905},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793234,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Good job OP, quarter round is for lazy people","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714398325971589.jpg","filename":"1688530840975677.jpg"},"posted":1714398325},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793238,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Still samefagging
Narcissist cannot handle any form of criticism
>>2793234
Its called base shoe idiot. Quarter round is an entirely different thing","attachment":null,"posted":1714398717},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793241,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792559
*notices cute Pokemon horsie","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714398852137930.png","filename":"pokemaster.png"},"posted":1714398852},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793249,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792940
Oh no no no no! He'll sit down in front of the warm fire, ready to catch any flying ember and all the time being reminded of how he permanently f'd up with making his fireplace look like it stands on laminate by that creeping saw cut.","attachment":null,"posted":1714400222},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793889,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"One of the guys at our union hall posted this picture on the bulletin board.
Its been the talk of the shop for days. It really is hard to believe. Especially to also brag about it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714507648},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793889
which union, the guys who lay bricks or the guys who install floors?
also were you the one who posted it?","attachment":null,"posted":1714508885},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2793978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793898
Go back to fagbook boy this isnt a chat room","attachment":null,"posted":1714519349},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2794188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789975
Looks good OP, Much tidier than scotia beading.
>>2790302
> I'm doing the whole upstairs in one piece floating floor, no transitions.
I'm a bit concerned about this.
I work in flooring in the UK and see builders and DIYers do this all the time, I also see the failures as different areas have different temperatures and humidity, so the laminate lifts at the ends and fails.","attachment":null,"posted":1714565687},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2794194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792940
anytime I walked by and saw that gap I would feel shame for what I'd done, good on OP for overcoming that","attachment":null,"posted":1714566384},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2794794,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793889
>Its been the talk of the shop for days
More than likely the union guys are amazed that someone actually did some work rather than just standing around at the union hall patting each other on the back.","attachment":null,"posted":1714681046},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2796505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789976
>>2789977
genuinely looks decent bud","attachment":null,"posted":1715035969},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797036,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792559
Ok job but personally I feel like the 'weight' of the brick fireplace is gone now that you can tell the brick is floating. So it feels fake to me. I'd have gone for some subtle baseboard. But god speed anon","attachment":null,"posted":1715177224},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797104,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797036
OP here. Can you find even 1 picture of someone who did this? I couldn't, not on brick or stone at least.","attachment":null,"posted":1715187145},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797113,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797104
>Can you find even 1 picture of someone who did this?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715188357399800.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-08_13-11-53.png"},"posted":1715188357},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797116,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797113
None of those show base board on stone.","attachment":null,"posted":1715188482},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797116
because that would look like shit. when he said "subtle" I assumed that was his way of saying shoe or quarter round. go ahead and USE THE EXACT SAME METHOD to slap bigassed base around your bricks.
and have your eyes checked.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715188882319847.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-08_13-20-55.png"},"posted":1715188882},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2797141,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797120
That's very clearly brick cut to allow the baseboard to slide under, which is no different than what I did","attachment":null,"posted":1715191570},{"board":"diy","thread":2789975,"pid":2799197,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Still defending your ignorant fuckup I see.
No you dont use base on brick, the proper way to run into brick is either buy or make a transition you turtle herder.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715614216972760.jpg","filename":"IMG_3202.jpg"},"posted":1715614216}]}
{"title":"DIY House, really that expensive?","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2790674,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So housing is too expensive as it is and I've been feeling ambitious as of late. So more and more I've been interested in taking a task like this. I have the know how and I have family that have built homes before that have taught me the ropes as well as would be willing to help, but I'm not sure about having the time at least right now, so it's more of a future project. People are saying 5000 sq ft would cost anywhere between 400k to 1 mil, so 10,000 sq ft they would estimate as more. 10467 sq ft total living space, fireplace, and basement are in the plans. Planning to build on the west coast, Anchorage Alaska, or in a few options in Russia. Foundations are the most expensive thing to build, so I could take care of that to cover labor costs. Does anybody have estimates for this being viable below 1 mil? Or would you say this is pointless dreaming?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713891411744444.jpg","filename":"fireplace and basement included.jpg"},"posted":1713891411},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2790676,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Plan in question:
https://www.dreamhomesource (dot)
com/plan/10467-square-feet-6-bedroom-6-50-bathroom-2-garage-sp115954","attachment":null,"posted":1713891477},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2790687,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
You sound like you're at the stage where it's pointless dreaming but you can get to where it's doable it just won't be quick or easy. My uncle did something like this (did much of the labor himself, used contractors where it was necessary) but he'd been in real estate/construction for most of his life. You also need to consider things like property taxes and the cost of upkeep. But first you need to figure out what it would cost you, which you can if you do the research.","attachment":null,"posted":1713892022},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2790793,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
>wants to diy a 5,000sqft mansion in russia
lol. lmao, even.","attachment":null,"posted":1713903457},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2790816,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790793
>10000 sq ft
>Russia
If I'll have citizenship then what's the issue?","attachment":null,"posted":1713905739},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2791538,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
>or in a few options in Russia
this is how you do it
just get some local drunkards to help you dig a shallow hole and shovel some concrete in it
then start laying aerated concrete blocks around the foundations
easy as shit. unless you're gonna build in a seismically active area then you are completely fucked because building out of any masnory there increases effort tremendously, it is very much possible but you need to pour loads of reinforced concrete now
>10000sqft
forget it lmao","attachment":null,"posted":1714055165},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2791719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
These days, the house isn't what's expensive, it's the land.","attachment":null,"posted":1714092331},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2791738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790816
Have fun losing all your money","attachment":null,"posted":1714094508},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2791775,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790687
>I don't know anything about it but my uncle might know something about it but yeah you'd need to learn more about it
Great post, thanks.","attachment":null,"posted":1714103810},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2791778,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
Steel barn houses are 1/3 the price. NEXT","attachment":null,"posted":1714104628},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2792586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791778
Stone is superior to steel, both in appearance and function","attachment":null,"posted":1714271122},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2793452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
Positives:
>complete customisation, you will be able to build the house for what you need instead of a housebuilder doing what's quick & easy and will sell
>It will likely be cheaper than than buying one.
>you pick the location
Why everyone doesn't do it:
>It is high risk, even if you do everything perfectly something catastrophic could happen.
>land is expensive and can be hard to get correctly zoned land.
>depending on where you live, planning permission is hell. It's slow, costs a lot and your entire project can get fucked over because of some 60 year old NIMBY or a single mature tree
>the process can take multiple years","attachment":null,"posted":1714422428},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2793768,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790816
> doesn't know how he is going to get robbed and gulag'd, unironically naive
Look forward to reading about you in the news","attachment":null,"posted":1714487615},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2794216,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
this already sounded overly ambitious if not straight retarded but
>in Russia
convinced me you are trolling","attachment":null,"posted":1714570224},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2794735,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
The amount of labor you personally put in for building yourself a 10k square foot house is going to be a drop in the bucket of the overall cost, unless you're legitimately doing it solo which would take you like half a decade plus. Even at $200 per sqft which is at the impossibly low end for custom new home construction, with 10k sqft you're looking at 2 million dollars.","attachment":null,"posted":1714668926},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2795027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm in a really lucky financial situation where I don't have to work and plan the same.
>I earn around 2k€ passive net income per month with my wife an additional 2k€
>I have an old house that I will probably be able to sell for around 200k, and around 100k in liquid money.
>additionally, I can get a subsidy financial loan from the government, will probably total around 300k with around 1.1k eur payment per month for 30y
any other europoors that actually build their own house?
I plan to do the following, 150sqm EG - 100sqm OG, no cellar:
>Foundation by contractor - 150sqm - around 60k €
>Outer walls with ICF/Neoporbetonschalungssteine - myself - around 50k€
>concrete for filling ICF + pump - contractor - 25k€
>Pitched roof by contractor - 40k€
>Filigrandecke by contractor - 20k€
>Sewage/Water system - contractor - 30k €
>heatpump - contractor - 20k€
>floorheating - myself - 10k€
>electricity - from an uncle - 2k€
>drywalling, plaster, paint - myself - 10k€
>windows - myself - 10k€
>doors - myself - 5k€
>miscellaneous - 50k€
around 340k for the raw construction.
I would use around 60k to get the house completely done with myself once again, my buffer would be around 200k€ which I plan to buy down the loan depending on circumstances.
I plan to build in a small nice village near a capital city and the only thing thats making me queazy is the local gov fucking me over","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714729314565479.jpg","filename":"maueraufbau-rohbau-thermowerk-bauelemente_small (1).jpg"},"posted":1714729314},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2795731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
Keep in mind you're gonna have to live there for the rest of your live because you're never gonna be able to sell it","attachment":null,"posted":1714890270},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2795930,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791778
Even better, steel construction with stone siding for material savings","attachment":null,"posted":1714935317},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2796175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795731
good, keeps faggot descendants from selling your property and land and forces them to live in it","attachment":null,"posted":1714975696},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2796271,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796175
Or they'll just sell it for someone to tear down and set up their own thing. If OP already put in water, electricity and sewage it's prime real estate","attachment":null,"posted":1715007439},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2796287,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
If you knew anything about home building, you would never take on a build over 2000sqft solo
I do large renovations solo and just a good remodel without major structural changes takes a year. Imagine what having to do everything would take
That doesn't even mention that a small house is $100k+ in materials before foundation","attachment":null,"posted":1715008762},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2796566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I find it's around $80-$100 per square foot of materials for a house no matter how you slice it. Due to:
- Roof
- Insulation
- Exterior Cladding
- Structural Members
- Flooring
- Interior Finish Work
- Windows
- Doors
- Plumbing Materials
- Electrical Materials
The raw cost ends up being higher than you'd expect. Picking pennies can really keep costs down to 1/3rd of "a modern nice finished home". For example, a hardwood floor can cost you $25k, or a similar laminar floor like those cheap apartments can cost you $3k. That's the kind of stuff that will add up if you buy the expensive option time after time.
You could always have no insulation, and no floors, and save like $30/sq ft. But is that really worth it? Only you can decide.
Good luck op.","attachment":null,"posted":1715047928},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2797217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
A home like that doesn't make your life better because instead of you owning it, it owns you and not so many years from now you'll be too old and damaged to care for it.
You want it to show off. What makes that an intelligent use of money?
Building anything in Russia is stupid and tells 4chan you're wisdom-averse and make silly therefore poor choices. Do you own your current home? What is your income? What makes grandiose cost center displays the best use of that income?
How many years will you even use it? Do you have other life interests or will you be like that autspergtarded audiophile who blew megabucks on his sound system which went for couch money when he croaked?","attachment":null,"posted":1715203440},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2797413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
>10467 sqft
anon for that money you could move to france and buy a literal castle
https://www.my-french-house.com/property-in-france/ayen-corr%C3%A8ze-nouvelle-aquitaine/chateau/83997","attachment":null,"posted":1715256164},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2798054,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
assuming it's not a troll, if you're planning on building in Russia, buy a smaller plot of land and build a dacha first, made using the same materials and building techniques. this will give you some experience to use toward the main build, and after completing the smaller project, you'll get a better idea as to the feasibility.","attachment":null,"posted":1715375673},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2798169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
>5000 sq ft would cost anywhere between 400k to 1 mil,
Is the cost to build or to buy? I am sure you can find 5000k hoses under 1 mil in many cheaper states.","attachment":null,"posted":1715389970},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2798383,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790674
>russia or alaska
Have fun losing all your money on heating bills each month so the house doesn't fall apart or explode.","attachment":null,"posted":1715446620},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2798553,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790793
>>2791738
>>2793768
These 12 year olds watched CNN and it shows.","attachment":null,"posted":1715475091},{"board":"diy","thread":2790674,"pid":2801215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798553
True. Imagine a child coming into a diy house thread ready to give input.","attachment":null,"posted":1716048800}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there anyway how to get Solidworks for free? Solid Edge has free license for hobbyists but I would like Solidworks since its more popular.
I dont want to pirate it unless its only option.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712943894463270.jpg","filename":"maxresdefault.jpg"},"posted":1712943894},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Have you tried onShape? It is surprisingly good for being web-based CAD software. Been using it for free for years.","attachment":null,"posted":1712944164},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785912,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785898
I have but I dont like web-based apps.","attachment":null,"posted":1712947850},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785912
then mail me a fucking letter and I'll tell you how to do it without using the web.","attachment":null,"posted":1712947935},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
pirate it or get it through your institution
so probably pirate it","attachment":null,"posted":1712959853},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2785986,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You can sketch on freecad too. You can even simulate with add ons and do the complex shapes instead of sketching them like screw threads.","attachment":null,"posted":1712962174},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786078,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Just pirate it like 99% of people do
>muh torrents aren't safe
Skill issue.
Or just purchase a license with a cloned cc, they're pretty cheap anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1712981023},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786092,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2785898
Not intuitive imo I really ducking locked fusion man but they got greedy with it
Fusion worked well with people coming from solidworks and inventor","attachment":null,"posted":1712982882},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786128,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
>I dont want to pirate it unless its only option.
Learn to use a computer. There's no excuse for not getting comfy on the high seas. If you can learn CAD you can learn piracy. I've pir8ed since 1999 and many here much longer.","attachment":null,"posted":1712994050},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Moi3d","attachment":null,"posted":1713021939},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786243,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786128
I don't know if it's a wives tale but I basically never pirated solidworks because apparently it phones home. If they find out you made any money using the program they sic a lawyer on you for like $3k and say pay us and we will give us a license; don't and we will ruin your ass.
I'd probably only use it with advanced fire walls and an airgapped pc.","attachment":null,"posted":1713029484},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2786250,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786243
>install with wifi turned off
>block it via firewall
>cut your balls off so you can't spread your retard genes
>???
>profit
You have no business being nowhere near a computer.","attachment":null,"posted":1713030918},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787250,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Using proprietary software
ISHYGDDT","attachment":null,"posted":1713224303},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787262,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
you will need a seperate computer without a modem to effectively use high dollar pirated software. you will never prevent it from phoning home if it wants to.","attachment":null,"posted":1713226037},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787265,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786243
> If they find out you made any money using the program
Lot of heavy lifting being done by the word "if" here.
That being said a license isn't very expensive if actually you're making money via solidworks.","attachment":null,"posted":1713226364},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787299,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
>>2785978
>>2786078
dassault systems releases cracks and keygens for their own products on many torrent sites and then the telemetry in their software will let them pull enough information from your computer to determine if you are a business or employee or not. If you are or ever do work for someone, they will note down every file you touch and just wait until you rack up about a million bucks in damages before they reach out to you with a lawsuit.
Depending on the situation, they just force you to buy a real license, but its always at their discretion.
this happened to me at my work btw.
employee was running windows 7 and it was eol and time to upgrade, they were not paying the $1000 a year grift so their license key was useless unless they paid $5000 in back fees for all the license maintenance they didnt pay.
I decided fuck it and cracked it and 3 years later they made us buy a new license or they were going to sue us.","attachment":null,"posted":1713230145},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787301,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787299
I meant to add
if you do crack their software, either run it in a vm or run it on a dedicated laptop and keep it offline or on a vpn.
you are generally safe as a hobbyist, but their telemetry is invasive and really you should not be okay with that.","attachment":null,"posted":1713230276},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787305,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785913
Shut up faggot. Web based cloudshit is bottom of the barrel and HTML5 and javascript have been forced to do so much shit (poorly) and so much of your information is scraped you should avoid it like the plague.","attachment":null,"posted":1713230729},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785913
Webapps are trash, kid","attachment":null,"posted":1713236728},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787381,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787301
Are all torrented solidworks with telemetry? I downloaded a cracked version a while ago and the installation wasn't straightforward, it asked me to disable the internet connection and use local license that was generated on my pc","attachment":null,"posted":1713250989},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787480,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
FreeCAD, openSCAD, Solvespace, or whatnot should do pretty fine. They're open source and free as well.","attachment":null,"posted":1713273513},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787299
I had this happen to me.
Never used 3d cad but had to design a rd shield for a pcb I was making.
Downloaded solidworks from a torrent, installed it, found it too complicated for a beginner so closed it and did what I needed with some freeware shit.
Few weeks later the owner of the company got an email from siemens saying a computer in the company was running a pirated version of their software. They wanted like €2000 or something for a licence but the owner decided to argue with them and they came down on him.
Of course the torrent I downloaded was the full version with every add on you can think of so they came back to him looking for like 30k.
Week or two later I got a new job and left","attachment":null,"posted":1713276650},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787712,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Im getting stressed just looking at that thing trying to think how am i supposed to machine that thing on 3 axis cnc and what to say and how to complain on time","attachment":null,"posted":1713298794},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787856,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2787712
1 op, 2 rotations,
First top, profile circle, drill holes , profile lower shelf, hog out with an insert em in steps, finish with a finish em p decent stick out
Rotate towards solid jaw, new origin , profile rounded corner and support fin, rotate towards solid jaw again profile other round side and fin or just pop her in a fixture where you cut out a relief for the part","attachment":null,"posted":1713320033},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787860,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2787501
Why is it machine shop owners are always cheap pieces of shit,
Last week the owner of my shop, bitched about how I did a crappy job programming a part . I just hit page up twice so that he could see his own name under the setup notes denoting that he wrote that shit not me
Then he just went “oh, we’ll do better when making parts think about how you can make them better” and walked off
Then bitched that I was watching the machine while proofing it rather than sweeeping or wiping random
Shit down","attachment":null,"posted":1713320228},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2787867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787262
>you will need a seperate computer without a modem to effectively use high dollar pirated software. you will never prevent it from phoning home if it wants to.
exactly, I only run unpirated software or linux on most machines.
You want to pirate, not only run on separate machine for muh "no phone home" there is also an aspect of "no phone to trojan HQ". Not saying that all pirated software is trojan'ed, but if say 0.5% of it is and you got a lot of stuff, probably you're gonna get trojaned. Heck even vanilla linux some guy tried to trojan with the .xz exploit recently","attachment":null,"posted":1713321305},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785986
>freecad
did they ever fix the fatal flaw? I used it for some simple stuff for 3D printing, but was hoping they would fix it.","attachment":null,"posted":1713508753},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788734,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2787860
>just hit page up twice so that he could see his own name under the setup notes denoting that he wrote that shit
Kek","attachment":null,"posted":1713515784},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788736,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Just use FreeCAD","attachment":null,"posted":1713516999},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788866,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786243
If you're making money with pirated software, pay for a license or to get sued eventually. If you're just using it to learn you'll probably be ok","attachment":null,"posted":1713543055},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785986
FreeCAD for the win","attachment":null,"posted":1713543266},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2788889,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787381
i just use simplewall to stop any of it from using the network
been using cracked sw since 2014","attachment":null,"posted":1713544752},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2789666,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
>>2786243
>>2787299
>>2787501
>>2788889
Damn, I've been using cracked Solidworks and have never even thought about this stuff. Guess I'm fucked lads.
Sadly I'm not an engineer so my stuff is only hobbyist grade.
As a side note does anyone have good learning resources for Solidworks? Always looking to improve.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713682056486152.jpg","filename":"1703711835508663.jpg"},"posted":1713682056},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2789692,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785913
ok, what's your address?","attachment":null,"posted":1713694291},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790460,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Do people really shit on the streets that often in India?","attachment":null,"posted":1713840510},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790461,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790460
does the tin man have a sheet metal cock?","attachment":null,"posted":1713840669},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Isn't like $50 a year for hobbyists or something? Just buy the subscription you broke bitch.","attachment":null,"posted":1713842420},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789666
Solidworks Phones Home only if it's ever been online. As long as you're not a complete retard that operated SW on an internet capable PC then you're fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1713854304},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790764,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have an offline computer just for running solidworks","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713901230327513.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240422_074354_YouTube.jpg"},"posted":1713901230},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790971,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
I love these fake, overly complicated part examples that can be made from a single block with 3 holes drilled in it.
Even if you die cast it, you still have to drill the same 3 holes most likely.","attachment":null,"posted":1713928380},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2790972,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
I use freecad. Together with a 3d printer is a very powerful combination","attachment":null,"posted":1713928950},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've used many CAD packages but in the end I just bought Rhino. It's not parametric, but I'd rather pay 1k once rather than pay 1k a year forever. Fuck SaaS.","attachment":null,"posted":1713954806},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
the only way to get it for free is if you're a student and your university has an agreement with dassualt systems to hand out free installs to students
otherwise just pirate it
idk about this "phoning home" shit people are talking about, maybe if you have a domain-joined computer and install a pirated version they'd be able to tell and would try suing your work. I've been pirating it for years for making simple parts to 3d print and have never gotten a letter or anything
although I do run it on linux so maybe they're just impressed I got it to run inside wine","attachment":null,"posted":1713966334},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791131,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"buy a Rhinoceros cdrom for $40 on ebay","attachment":null,"posted":1713967691},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787299
A guy I knew in college was using a pirated version of Solidworks and one day he got an email from them listing every single time he used the software. They know, and they will do something about it eventually.","attachment":null,"posted":1713972241},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Someone suggested running sw on a vm, I tried installing our legit sw copy on a vm at the office but it didn't let me.","attachment":null,"posted":1713979633},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791193
I use it in a vm (as linux is my main os) and it works fine. It doesn't take much to configure a vm to make it not look like a vm to things like sw","attachment":null,"posted":1713982082},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790515
Oh I absolutely have, oh well lads guess it's over.","attachment":null,"posted":1714012567},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791759,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"A legit installation of SW can know if a file was made with a cracked copy. That's why we have to seats at my job now.","attachment":null,"posted":1714098520},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2791937,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787299
Bullshit, i use SW 2022 that i downloaded on piratebay, made over 150k on upwork as my main job, if they charged something reasonable for an independent engineer like me, I'd be ok with buying, but the prices they ask for to get some simulation modules? Fuck you, I'll grab for free and you wont even make a cent from me","attachment":null,"posted":1714153557},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2792113,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790971
My CAD/Additive Manufacturing instructor loved having us make these parts, and even have fusion generate designs like these.","attachment":null,"posted":1714186207},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2792123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791759
Can other software open their file formats and save them without watermark?","attachment":null,"posted":1714186954},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2793516,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791070
>I've used many CAD packages but in the end I just bought ...
What's about Designspark? Simply the best 3D Sw i ever used, free base version and very affordable.","attachment":null,"posted":1714428937},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2794152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787480
>FreeCAD, openSCAD, Solvespace
gtfo","attachment":null,"posted":1714558184},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2794179,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2790971
Pro tip, almost all parts on earth are just blocks with holes in it cut to fancy shapes to help sell them","attachment":null,"posted":1714563606},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796444,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"it is incredibly easy to find free version of SW without doing any pirating. I am a student and get it for free, but I remember some Indian on youtube had this tutorial. You just put in the code on the SW website.","attachment":null,"posted":1715029101},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796458,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786250
Is there a way to force a program to use a custom hosts file?","attachment":null,"posted":1715031107},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786250
>>2796458
I mean, a hosts file separate from your main one.","attachment":null,"posted":1715031137},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796464,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787867
I remember those threads. That was a fun time. I like to think Linus was spasming at his keyboard every time he saw or typed the letters x and z","attachment":null,"posted":1715031220},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
Holy shit what a garbage model tbqh","attachment":null,"posted":1715038827},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796541,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788734
>>2787860
some riveting posts from the tripfag","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715042516085951.jpg","filename":"crow.jpg"},"posted":1715042516},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796559,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm a little bit lay with all this sfotware sorcery and o after reading the thread and some more on the internet I got some questions. The only unavoidable problem seems, as if you make you sure you pirated SD dont get internet conection you are clear, to open a file saved in a pirated software on a legal one, that aparently the file carry info that would trigger a phone home in the legal. So if you make a file in a pirated SD, open in a Opensorce software, and saves it would it still phone home if the file saved in the open sorce was open in legal software? Some what like libre Office changes .txt (word) to .odt or this extensions doesnt really mean much.
There is a way to be caught or how to prevent if I take my file made in a pirated software to print, machine, or 3d print in a third party busnisses?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715046671695453.jpg","filename":"1702150282599.jpg"},"posted":1715046671},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796577,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2796559
Solid works doesn’t sign your files unless you have a student version then it marks the file student version forever
You export as an X_T for machining before you start programming for CAD
You export it as an STL for 3D printing or 3mf if newer 3d printing
Printer sliders don’t give a shit where you get your files as long as there aren’t any errors in the import , if there are it will auto repair but it smfucks up a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1715050868},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2796601,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796577
>Solid works doesn’t sign your files unless you have a student version then it marks the file student version forever
oh, from what I was reading online people were saying SD files can have your IP, key code etc saved on it and that when in original or in a pirated SD that has internet conection it, the software, can phone-home sending this infos.
Good to know. So it doesnt seems to to be that much of problem if one gets sure it doesnt get internet acess. I just graduated in eng and I was very against learning softwares as I had a professor that everthing I asked he replied "a software takes care of that" and it annoyed me so much cause in my eyes that isnt engeneering, but as now I'm trying get in the job narket I dont have where to run. maybe being so stubborn was a mistake.","attachment":null,"posted":1715059400},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791070
> Rhino
> Not parametric
> It literally comes with a built-in parametric powerful tool that allows you to do anything you want
Retard","attachment":null,"posted":1715196415},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797238,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
>>2785898
onshape is more than adequate for almost all hobbyists - i actually prefer the methods they use to make assemblies and referenced parts to traditional SW for assemblies of less than 30 parts
if you think you're going to properly use SW add-ons like finite element analysis and flow simulation, you are either deluded or already work for someone who can afford to pay for it
SW CAM software is mid at best, avoid unless you're being forced to use it for legacy reasons. same goes for its rendering engine
if onshape isn't good enough, then whatever youre doing is either so complex or so retarded that yes, you will need to pay or pirate SW
>t.SW2012 gigachad","attachment":null,"posted":1715206648},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797351,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794152
Dassault isn't going to raise your pay.","attachment":null,"posted":1715229694},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797370,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2796601
The IP address thing smells like bullshit, like I said I’m just a retarded tradie, not a full stack developer or someone that can exploit code
I just cut metal for a living like a low iq fuck wit","attachment":null,"posted":1715232341},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797371,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791937
Ok and? You pirated 2022, it's 2024. You have one more year or so.","attachment":null,"posted":1715232346},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797378,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
gonna shill a little for solid edge here,
been using it side-by-side with solidworks for a number of years (work has SW, I have solid edge at home). They're practically equivalent if you use the "ordered" environment in solid edge. Theres been a couple of things that are inconvenient on either one vs the other, but anything Ive made in one I can replicate on the other, and the skills transfer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715234670},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797238
isn't onshape cloud-slop though?","attachment":null,"posted":1715262740},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797466,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786243
>never make any money
>never get sued
as a bonus you don't have to pay taxes on what you don't earn","attachment":null,"posted":1715265043},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797474,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797454
it's browser-trash. also buried in the EULA is the fact that you're not allowed to make any money or use it professionally without a license so it's no better than pirated or Fusion360 for "free" software because the minute you make money you need to buy a license.","attachment":null,"posted":1715265266},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2797508,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
what was the last version that did not require the software to connect to the internet (i.e. spied on you)
get this version
???
deal with it","attachment":null,"posted":1715272428},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2798814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797238
i use fea just a little bit, like for things such as "will this bend with 50kg on it, or does it need to be a bit thicker?" you might only consider fancy usage since smaller people aren't supposed to have it","attachment":null,"posted":1715528496},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2798822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"send them email. hobbyists seems to be their big source of income.","attachment":null,"posted":1715529901},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2798889,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786243
>apparently it phones home
Negro, it's $50/year. If you make money on it just deduct it from your taxes.","attachment":null,"posted":1715542111},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2800259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787480
Open scad is not normal cad.
It's a bit different but very powerful, most people who want cad should probably not use it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715831929},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2800260,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791131
Gigabased.","attachment":null,"posted":1715832055},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802042,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785897
rutracker.org. Although like others on here have said, FreeCAD is better.","attachment":null,"posted":1716194876},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802066,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802042
FreeCAD is unintuitive crap. And I tell it to you as design engineer who works in SW, Inventor, NX and ProEngineer.","attachment":null,"posted":1716206170},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802066
It's not that it's unintuitive it's bad when you start doing anything else but mushing primitives together","attachment":null,"posted":1716211548},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802066
You've surface level skill if thats what you think.","attachment":null,"posted":1716282569},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What do people think of Inventor? It's basically the same as Solidworks, and its spyware is only marginally less invasive.","attachment":null,"posted":1716291785},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802546,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2802529
They were fucking useless for about 15 years
People that went with autodesk were generally like civil and electrical engineers
Most mechanical dudes went with dassault systems or whatever they call themselves now “sell your information and designs to china systems”","attachment":null,"posted":1716295845},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802550,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790971
it not a good design to be cast
or really good at all
which they would know if they used the stress modeling features solid works has","attachment":null,"posted":1716296764},{"board":"diy","thread":2785897,"pid":2802645,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787299
>dassault systems releases cracks and keygens for their own products
Fucking based. All you need to do to circumvent this is to lock it in a VM. No more russian vm-escaping ransomware, thanks dassault systemes!","attachment":null,"posted":1716312964}]}
{"title":"/hbg/ - Homebrew general","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2774824,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">commercial brewing legal advice edition","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710969613582325.jpg","filename":"1710969572684.jpg"},"posted":1710969613},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2774826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's everyone's spring lineup? I'm brewing a black IPA tomorrow for the eclipse","attachment":null,"posted":1710969746},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2774890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've got some questions about kegs. I mainly do cider and I'm extremely lazy. the idea of fermenting in a keg with a spunding valve and floating dip tube and having it naturally carbonate is extremely enticing. I'd have to get it to like 20-22 psi to get to 2.5 volumes at my basement temps though, and that's the main point I'm unsure about
most people ferment under pressure more around 10 psi, so I figure I'd likely do the same and then ramp up the pressure towards the end of fermentation, or let it finish at 10, then add priming sugar and bring it up to 20. if I then brought that down to a nice cool serving temp it'd drop to around 10 psi but be just as carbonated (based on a kegging calculator and my limited understanding, could be wrong), but what if I don't have a permanent cooling setup and I bring it back up to basement temps? will it remain as carbonated but climb back up to ~20 psi again? is there any issue with doing this multiple times, or would it be best to just use ice/chilled glasses and a long picnic tap and keep the keg at basement temps at ~20 psi? also I assume it's best to still buy a co2 tank to have hooked up when serving? that's a bit confusing in the context of naturally carbonating in a keg, most info I find online has people fermenting in a keg under pressure, then transferring it to a clean keg under pressure and then repressurizing with a tank, and I want to be as cheap and easy as possible so not doing that shit. if I was really worried about lees I'd ferment in a bucket, transfer to keg, then use priming sugar in the keg","attachment":null,"posted":1710985307},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2774936,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774890
All you need is co2 and a regulator and always keep it connected; at least at the beginning when headspace is minimal. Worst case scenario you might get a couple unpredictable pours at the beginning or you have to increase your beer line length if it foams continuously. Alternatively buy or build a pool table and keezer and live in the basement","attachment":null,"posted":1711000929},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775523,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"wife got a kit for her birthday
did a cider since apple juice was half off at the grocery store","attachment":null,"posted":1711131955},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775523
forgot pic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711132024018105.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-03-22-11-23-21-14_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1711132024},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775567,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I kinda just threw together a pineapple mead by blending it up, adding in honey, covering with cheesecloth until it bubbled for a few weeks, then filtered out the pineapple bits and let it sit for little over a month now. Will this work out? Everything was freshly cleaned, but I haven't done what everyone has been saying to do, trying to be lazy and use natural fermentation processes. Smells about right though.
Did I mess up?","attachment":null,"posted":1711137914},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775651,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775567
might not ferment completely dry, but as long as it isn't moldy it should be fine
Natural yeast is also work a lot slower, so it could still be working in 6 months","attachment":null,"posted":1711148211},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775676,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"An idea: Steep black tea and ginger, bottle with a pinch of bakers yeast and priming sugar, serve carbonated with honey and lemon. Disgusting? Tasty? Reasonable? Why the fuck not just get a ginger bug?","attachment":null,"posted":1711152792},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775970,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What are the best brands for high pressure flip top bottles?
Want something that could hold champagne levels of carbonation","attachment":null,"posted":1711225033},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2775993,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775970
I'm also wondering this. Grolsch bottles are good, but I'd like something with more volume.","attachment":null,"posted":1711227486},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776074,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Wanna make my third batch of mead soon and was thinking of adding some spices, ideally something to offset the extremely sweet flavour. What can I add? Maybe something like juniper or possibly hops?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711236897288965.png","filename":"Honeycomb.png"},"posted":1711236897},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776115,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
blackberries or tart cherries","attachment":null,"posted":1711242842},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775970
>>2775993
anyone have experience with EZ cap bottles? They're the only ones that keep coming up in my search","attachment":null,"posted":1711244051},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776143,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
Rhubarb","attachment":null,"posted":1711244678},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776132
alright you slow board cunts are useless
I orderes a 12 pack of 1L clear EZ cap bottles from ohio
Thought they'd be cheaper ordering from canada direcly but the shipping is fucking unreal","attachment":null,"posted":1711254990},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776143
How would I do that? just throw fresh stalks in the barrel? Cut it into strips or slices?","attachment":null,"posted":1711293126},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776372
I think most people make a syrup","attachment":null,"posted":1711300299},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"No exactly a wine guy, would I even like the taste of basic mead?","attachment":null,"posted":1711331514},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2776733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776610
That's a tough question to answer. Either buy some mead to try or buy some honey. If you like the honey you may like mead.","attachment":null,"posted":1711358542},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2777088,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"started my first mead","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711427705542394.jpg","filename":"IMG20240325213121.jpg"},"posted":1711427705},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2777221,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777088
What recipe? Gravity? Going to flavor it or drink it plain? Leaving it dry or backsweetening?","attachment":null,"posted":1711453364},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2777293,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777221
It's just 3lbs honey, water, nutrients, and yeast
Didn't get a good reading, since it was foamy and I don't have a cylinder, looked around 1.12
probably won't sweeten
I have some acid and tannins I may put in depending on how it tastes straight
Because it was my first mead I didn't want to go too crazy with it
My goal is just to get some experience before I try my hand at blackberry, plum, and rhubarb meads/ciders later this summer","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711469044781918.webm","filename":"VID20240326085325.webm"},"posted":1711469044},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778046,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey so last year I made cider and mead using Lalvin EC-1118 yeast. It was fine. Then I decided to make some wine using some Brewsy bags someone got be for Christmas. I scoffed at them but they actually make really good fruit wine. So good that everyone wants me to bring it to parties. It’s kinda hard to beta since it only takes 2 weeks to make, but is there something else I can use that is as reliable but not as expensive/lame as brewsy? Or is it fine? I don’t really mind the cost I just feel like I’m cheating at this.","attachment":null,"posted":1711584169},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Has anyone here tried making nuruk?","attachment":null,"posted":1711587050},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just to force myself to be uncomfortable and learn something new, I want to make a wine from storebought ingredients, mead, sake and cider. I mostly just brew beer, but have done a blackberry wine before during the season. Can I do all these with just a 5 gallon bucket setup, and bottle into swing tops? I brew beer with the ferment in keg method, and do oxygen free transfers etc. Is any of that important with wine, mead, sake or cider?
I'm not looking to make a lot, maybe gallon batches as final volume. I don't need a carboy or demijohn, right? And if oxygen-free transfers and such are important, can I do any of this stuff in my kegs?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711597328170988.jpg","filename":"1710618042437946.jpg"},"posted":1711597328},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778163,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778156
I have been really autistic about not having more stuff than I need and keeping footprint minimal / equipment list minimal, so right now my homebrewing stuff is just
>2.5 and 5gal kegs for fermenting and serving, spunding valve
>electric BIAB kettle and all that jazz (e.g, plate chiller, pump)
>kegerator, co2 tank, etc
>7gal homebrew bucket with lid (don't use it for brewing at all, but it's a nice bucket for random things which may now come in handy for it's original purpose)
I'm building a glycol chiller soon to precisely temp control the fermenting kegs. But overall it's a pretty tight setup in terms of square footage. I have no miscellaneous boxes of racking canes, tubing, bottles, etc and everything is easily tucked away when not in use. It's basically just kettle, kegs and kegerator.
So trying to get into wine/sake/mead/cider presents an equipment challenge. I wouldn't mind getting a couple 1gal carboys, I can fit those on a shelf somewhere and are easy to clean and handle, and stow when not in use. But I'm quite opposed to obtaining another 5gal carboy (I used to have a few). And to store the final products, I'm unsure whether I should go with corks or swings caps. I'd hate to have both, and I'm leaning toward swings since I don't intend to age long. My gut tells me to just get two 1gal carboys with airlock and bung, and maybe 8 swing tops, adding more as necessary.
Anyway I just bought the sake book and will be getting wine ingredients from the store tomorrow to at least get the easiest part going.","attachment":null,"posted":1711599206},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778156
I assume just the wine would be from grocery store ingredients? since you can't get the mold needed for sake at a grocery store. wine and mead often like aging a fair bit, but as long as your gaskets are good, swing top bottles can handle a year just fine. also they're perfectly fine to just ferment in a bucket
for the cider I would actually recommend treating it the same way you do your beers, as long as you don't mind devoting a keg to it. simply because it'll be easiest to carbonate that way
for wine and mead people typically like to age in a carboy for a while so they can get rid of all the sediment before they bottle, and it's not great to leave them sitting in plastic buckets for the amount of time it'd take them to clear up. if you use bentonite during fermentation and then do a good cold crash before bottling, you should be fine though. there's not a huge difference between aging in bottles versus in a carboy so don't worry about that. if you plan on oaking or anything like that though, you may want to add them during primary, and that can be a bit annoying if you want to mess with spices which may only need a couple days in there
I'm not knowledgeable about sake, I just know you need your koji (or other mold sources if you want to do a korean or chinese style rice wine), and that they don't typically age a ton. you should be fine doing that in a bucket as well though","attachment":null,"posted":1711610777},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778241,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Trying out homebrewing for the first time with a simple cider made from store-bought apples. Had a couple hiccups: used baker's yeast since I couldn't find brewer's yeast, didn't use sanitizer solution in the airlock at first, and I threw away the red cap on the airlock like a noob.
I did eventually find brewer's yeast, and am considering repitching. I cleaned out the airlock and filled it with sanitizer solution, and I covered it with a foil cap.
It does have a vinegar flavor now due to contamination, but I'm keeping it and calling it a traditional, ancient-style brew lmao. Plus everyone says apple cider vinegar has health benefits. It is still fermenting with the baker's yeast after a week, albeit very slowly. I can't tell if it stalled and if I should repitch. Also, baker's yeast is terrible at forming lees, so I think I may use the gelatin trick when all is done fermenting.
Thank you for reading my blog post.","attachment":null,"posted":1711627258},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778246,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778191
Awesome, sounds like I should be good by just grabbing some 1gal carboys and swing tops then. Thanks!! And yeah only the wine from store bought ingredients. I’ve only ever made blackberry wine from blackberries I picked myself, but I’d like to start making it from whatever.","attachment":null,"posted":1711628369},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775526
would 100% fuck your wife in her ass","attachment":null,"posted":1711632331},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778278,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774824
https://alcofermbrew.com/en/module/kalkulator/page.html
I have some apple wine aging in demijohns now a mix of apple caramel, apple plain and some mixed berry wine made with Saskatchewan berries and blueberry as well as figs and a few other fruits aging in bottles..
23 liters of stout I finished two weeks ago carbonating and conditioning atm.
Next batch will be blueberry wine, I plan on making around three gallons, because from what I remember I enjoy blueberry wine a lot.
After this blueberry wine I will be making a strawberry wine and so on.
I almost forgot, I have a tea wine fermenting now in a one gallon demijohn.
I used a couple different teas as well as 2 lbs of sugar and a half pound of honey, nutrient, acid blend. Added dried elderberries on a couple occasions and the color is amazing.
I also tried a different yeast hoping it will retain more flavors.
SG was 1.100 on brew day which was March 4th.
It has slowed a lot but still fermenting atm and smells great.
I have a corny keg I bought years ago, that I would like to start using to force carbonate brews but I'm sure I have to switch out the valves and get a lid with relief vale etc, also will need CO2 tanks etc I wonder if it is worth it in the end.","attachment":null,"posted":1711636165},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778279,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778278
>Saskatchewan berrie
Saskatoon berries","attachment":null,"posted":1711636267},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778259
Clean your thoughts, brother, our Lord is coming
>>2778241
bread yeast is fine for cider, you may just have to rack it twice
Sanitization is important, but it's actually really hard to fuck it up too bad since the CO2 also prevents mold from growing
airlocks work fine without a cap, you just have a higher chance of getting fruit flies in your lock","attachment":null,"posted":1711642058},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778241
if it tastes like vinegar it's likely you are acetobacter infected and it will eat any alcohol you may have had and turn it into only vinegar. just dump it and start over actually sanitizing properly as it's never going to improve","attachment":null,"posted":1711656892},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778334
Plenty of bacteria are anaerobic","attachment":null,"posted":1711657118},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778278
>worth it in the end
It is, having the ability to carbonate doesn't just extend to beer. Hop water, flavored water, dissolving brewer's chalk, pop, all these things are unlocked with CO2. Your keg lid should have a PRV in the lid, I don't see why you would need to do anything else to it, just figure out if it's ball or pin lock and get the appropriate fittings","attachment":null,"posted":1711657413},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778437,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778421
>>2778422
Ah shit, that sucks. Didn't realize they could live without O2. Should I heat the apple juice to try and sterilize that too before starting the brew next time? It was a tiny 1.5 liter batch anyways since I kinda anticipated fucking up somewhere.","attachment":null,"posted":1711659671},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778471,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778437
Nah apple juice from the store is already pasteurized just make sure it doesn't have any preservatives in it. Get some star san and an air lock for next time to avoid the same mistake","attachment":null,"posted":1711662890},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778437
>>2778471
Sorry didn't see you already had those things","attachment":null,"posted":1711662961},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778476,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778437
>Should I heat the apple juice
If you end up working with raw juice, know that you should use the lower/longer pasteurization temperature because high heat sets the pectin in the juice (the mechanism by which jam thickens).","attachment":null,"posted":1711663506},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778539,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778421
why dump it when you could just let it do its thing and have homemade apple cider vinegar?","attachment":null,"posted":1711669833},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778620,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Racked the cider and made a cyser out of 2lbs of honey we've had sitting around for over a year
Gonna try to natural carb the cider when our swing top bottles get here next week
it's super dry, but tastes good for being warm, flat, and made with the cheapest apple juice we could find","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711682437099861.jpg","filename":"1711682295839.jpg"},"posted":1711682437},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778665,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778334
Data on brewing with bread yeast is scarce as fuck, no surprise there. Apparently you can use a warmed gelatin solution, but not too hot to form jello, to clear up the suspended yeast.
>>2778472
>>2778476
Thank you for the tips/suggestions. Hear me out for a second though: after cleaning the airlock well a few days ago and making sure it's properly filled with a sanitizer solution, it no longer emanates an acetic smell. The brew doesn't seem to either (briefly unscrewed the cap, making sure to keep things relatively still knowing that CO2 is heavier than O2). Is it possible that ethanol vapors condensed into the airlock and fed some environmental AAB, throwing me off?
Some cursory research seems to indicate that anaerobic AAB is pretty rare, mostly a deep sea phenomenon (?).
>>2778539
Seems like a perfectly good recourse if all else fails.
>>2778620
Goals bro. Just learned what a cyser is thanks to this post.","attachment":null,"posted":1711692422},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778668,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"do yall use sanitary/triiclamp fittings?","attachment":null,"posted":1711693374},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778672,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778665
>gelatin
Biofine is easier to come across for me and keeps my Indian wife happy. I usually just cold crash at 31°F though unless I'm doing a lager
>is it possible that...
If you're happy with the end I wouldn't worry too much, to really know what (if any) infection you may have you need to plate and stain","attachment":null,"posted":1711695163},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778668
Yes","attachment":null,"posted":1711695234},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778683,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778046
If you want to go cheap, skeeter pee (lemon juice) is probably as good as it gets. For fruit, dried dates are in season (1.5kg/10L).
>>2778241
>threw away the red cap on the airlock
Back in the days when airlocks was made of glass and didn't have caps, ppl used a piece of cotton or a glass marble.","attachment":null,"posted":1711699276},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778892,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775523
>>2775526
does your wife have cute feet?","attachment":null,"posted":1711738861},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778421
le vinigger maymay is a bit overblown i think. yes alcohol gets converted into vinigger, but this process requires oxygen, and lots of it, which in a brew that is fermenting and saturated with CO2 isn't going to happen
Acetobacter btw are literally everywhere so you can have the best hygiene in the world they're still going to get in your brew unless you made your wort in space or something","attachment":null,"posted":1711739854},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778912,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My bottles are ariving today, lads
How much sugar do I put in ine gallon to get a good amount of carbonation?","attachment":null,"posted":1711741370},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778917,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778898
There are lots of different organisms that can contribute sour or vinegar-like flavor. Having the best hygiene in the world by definition would prevent acetobacter, as would just using quality ingredients and following good sanitary practice","attachment":null,"posted":1711742514},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778921,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778912
Plenty of calculators online based on sugar type and temperature, shoot for ~2.4 volumes of CO2","attachment":null,"posted":1711742756},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778942,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey so I'm the pineapple guy from before. I am making a new batch of drink. I had the idea to do cucumber, lime, and sweetened condensed milk this time. Am I just wasting money, or could this actually work? I've googled around, and each of these concepts work by themselves, but I've not heard of someone doing them together.","attachment":null,"posted":1711745938},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778943,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775970
uh. champagne fermenting is usually like 80-90 psi. a flimsy swing top bottle aint doing that shit","attachment":null,"posted":1711746464},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778947,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778917
they're airborne mate, unless you have a way to sterilise the air you're oxygenating with the vinigger bacteria can and will go into your brew (which is usually not an issue, as i have explained earlier)
it's like putting bread in a superheated steam cleaned breadbox and expecting it not to get moldy over time","attachment":null,"posted":1711746988},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778973,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778947
>I can't sterilize the air
Look at that, $8.99 for four of them too
>not an issue
Thank you for your 100% subjective contribution. You must have more knowledge than entire industries, I'm sure it's highly sought after
There are several microorganisms that can either produce acetic acid or mimic the smell/flavor; brettanomyces and lactobacillus to name two. OP said it went away anyways, so sounds like it was outcompeted. Better sanitation practice is still applicable though, just because your bread molds doesn't mean you shouldn't clean your breadbox","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711750617092919.png","filename":"1711749161084.png"},"posted":1711750617},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2778983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778912
I don't know if this will help you or not.
https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator","attachment":null,"posted":1711751829},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779001,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778973
do you always strawman this hard when someone points out flaws or inaccuracies in your posts? you claimed "just using quality ingredients and following good sanitary practice" would prevent acetobacter
it really doesn't
>You must have more knowledge than entire industries
entire industries, probably not, but apparently more than idiots like you
here, literally one of the first results when i google vinegar oxygen
>Acetobacter spp. are present in the wine must, on the surface of grapes, and on injured grapes. Acetic acid formation may only proceed when adequate oxygen is available, i.e. on fruits, in juices and in mashes. Under the anaerobic conditions of wine making, vinegary spoilage is rare.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/acetobacter
is what i have been trying to say but it doesn't seem to go through your thick skull","attachment":null,"posted":1711754617},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779001
Pretty sure you're the same fag from the last thread who wasted so much time on kegs vs conicals. I hope you find peace instead of being so argumentative, perhaps my suggestion that it could be something other than AAB triggered your monkey brain reply","attachment":null,"posted":1711760642},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779065,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779001
you are a literal mong. the oxygen concentration doesn't need to be that high and if the bacteria gets well established before the yeast starts pumping out co2 guess what happens einstein","attachment":null,"posted":1711765297},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778943
EZ-cap bottles claim to be rated to 100 psi","attachment":null,"posted":1711766383},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779080,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pressure transferring a black IPA for the eclipse. 5.1% at 1.007. If you haven't tried HBC 472 hops they're fucken worth it, a nice fruity/coconut nose with wood and more coconut. Named it Peligro since on every ladder the nigger is always the one clowning around and falling off","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711766541995588.jpg","filename":"1711766521863.jpg"},"posted":1711766541},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779082,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779080
Picrel, one less criminal","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711766628428801.jpg","filename":"1711766609368.jpg"},"posted":1711766628},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779083,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778983
>>2778921
thanks, I'll give it a shot tomorrow","attachment":null,"posted":1711766658},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779085,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779080
>>2779082
kek","attachment":null,"posted":1711767141},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779079
i wouldnt trust it. champagne bottles are hugely thick and the corks are so massive they need a special machine to compress them to fit in the mouth. but its your life","attachment":null,"posted":1711780537},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779165,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778673
Would you find use in something like this but way cheaper?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304281170412
Or do you just tighten/release with your fingers?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711783247921108.png","filename":"Untitled.png"},"posted":1711783247},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779165
Nah I just tighten with my fingers. Put the receiving side on the bottom, flip the clamp over the top so gravity naturally pulls the bolt into place, don't even need two hands","attachment":null,"posted":1711785121},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779269,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779157
>>2779079
I don't think the cork size matters. A champagne bottle would uncork itself if left uncaged and a flip top is basically a caged cork. Also just because champagne bottles are thick doesn't mean these can't hold the pressure. The glass is still rather thick. I'd probably test them by bottle conditioning a brew calculated to maybe 120psi before trusting them though.","attachment":null,"posted":1711809019},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779157
the ez cap bottles are definitly thicker than the chinesium shit you'd get off amazon
they got a different shape, too
Doubt I'd ever go much higher than 3-4 volumes CO2 though","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711823321020138.jpg","filename":"products-blue-1l.jpg"},"posted":1711823321},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"anyone here have a fruit crusher and press?
I was thinking about getting them, since we have a ton of apple trees on our property
any recommendations or things to look out for?","attachment":null,"posted":1711831448},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779430
Worms, bugs, fungus.","attachment":null,"posted":1711836253},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779488,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779454
nothing wrong with some protein and extra yeast, brother","attachment":null,"posted":1711840109},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779646,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778191
>carboy
cheap way to buy gallon glass jugs is pic related","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711858180203120.png","filename":"juice.png"},"posted":1711858180},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779430
I've been passively looking at presses for a while. From what I've seen, it makes sense to go with a hydraulic design versus a lead screw. I'm not sure how the latter is food safe or reliable with threads grinding away. Seems a jack wins for ease of use, longevity, and not getting small metal shavings in your cider. Crushers seem to be the same across the board, just depends on if you want a motor or not","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711860313701138.png","filename":"1711859783767.png"},"posted":1711860313},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779819,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779269
>I don't think the cork size matters
Cork size matters, they don't make mushroom shaped corks for champagne bottles. They make straight about 30mm corks and squeeze them into a 18mm something hole, that gives it the shape.","attachment":null,"posted":1711900227},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779065
look up the reaction senpai, the airlock that you see bubbling like a madman during the start of fermentation? you need that in reverse with oxygen to get vinegar.
even if you somehow managed to dump a bunch of acetobacter along with your yeast in your wort, during the aerobic phase of fermentation there is no ethanol to convert and when it gets going there is simply no oxygen to metabolise the ethanol.
it seems like i can throw around all the sources i want just so they can be totally ignored. arguing with idiots is always a challenge
>>2779033
take your meds schizo","attachment":null,"posted":1711919416},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2779949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779819
that is one thing i noticed when i nig rigged a stopper out of a champagne cork, i put it in water and microwaved it to boiling in an attempt to make it clean and when i took it out i was surprised the mushroom had turned into a cylinder
i already cut the cork to fit in the carboy so that took some rework
on topic i think champagne is very highly carbonated so perhaps these bottles might be overkill if you're only working with 10g/L of priming sugar. but at least you can be fairly confident they won't explode
i use corks from porto bottles, those are very easy to reuse but you need to secure them with metal wire if you're going to carbonate. pretty nice all these bottles have roughly the same internal diameter","attachment":null,"posted":1711921771},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780054,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779269
champagne corks only pop itself if exposed to temperature change or excess movement. theyre not supposed to be moved in the upright position at all and kept in a cool enviornment.","attachment":null,"posted":1711942083},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780519,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"got three bottle carbonating with ~5 gr of sugar each
One flat bottle is in the fridge to be had tomorrow
Gonna get started on 2 more gallons with different apple juices, one is a 3 apple blend and the other is a sweet and tart cider blend","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712029091620080.jpg","filename":"1712029014307.jpg"},"posted":1712029091},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780530,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779940
nope you are just a fucking tard. the oxygen concentration doesn't need to be that high. please do post your degrees though you can cover the name but tape and stamp with your post # and I'll post mine to compare and then I can laugh at mr ged's science knowledge","attachment":null,"posted":1712032837},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780519
I have similar bottles and I don't believe they're pressure rated. Did yours mention the max pressure?","attachment":null,"posted":1712052736},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780690,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780619
100 psi
https://ezcap.ca/collections/swing-top-bottles/products/e-z-cap-1l-swingtop-reusable-bottle","attachment":null,"posted":1712070279},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778191
>you can't get koji at a grocery store
You need to upgrade your grocery store","attachment":null,"posted":1712113223},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2780977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Made three gallons of blueberry wine today with a litre of red grape concentrate dumped in, added a couple bananas for body and some dried elderberries that I had left over. I also added a bit of Oak and a little over 4lbs of sugar, yeast nutrient, a bit of acid blend and a bit of tannin.
I will add more blueberries later in secondary.
SG was 1.085.","attachment":null,"posted":1712114901},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781023,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">popped open a fruit wine that I've made from my own garden fruit that's been fermenting for 3 months
Feels good man. Besides maybe the choice of fruit the first bottle is really good. Had various friends and parents over and everyone was complimenting it. I think I'm gonna try and brew more from different fruit once the harvest season comes this year","attachment":null,"posted":1712124946},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I had a cider go from 1.052 to 1.000 in three days
it tastes alright but it smells a little eggy
What do I do, lads?","attachment":null,"posted":1712246129},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781616
The yeast probably just needs more time to clean up the sulphur taste. What yeast did you use?","attachment":null,"posted":1712247839},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781638,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781628
71B","attachment":null,"posted":1712248941},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781650,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781638
Yeah, I would check it in a couple days and see if the smell goes away or at least is less. Do you plan on carbonating?","attachment":null,"posted":1712250639},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781650
I probably will carbonate
Should I throw some nutrients in before bottling?","attachment":null,"posted":1712252926},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781655,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781654
Nah you shouldn't need to add nutrients. Wait like 2 more days and check the smell. If it's less noticeable or (hopefully) gone then bottle; the yeast should carbonate and clean up the rest during bottle conditioning. If no change try raising the temp a few degrees for 2 more days but you may have to just wait for it to age out in the bottle","attachment":null,"posted":1712253760},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781655
Cool, thanks","attachment":null,"posted":1712254458},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone who could share some beer recipes they’ve had success with?
So far I’ve brewed a batch of undead pale ale and patersbier and both came out really nice but I have no idea what to go for next","attachment":null,"posted":1712259867},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781705
Can you brew lagers or just ales/stouts? What are you in the mood for?","attachment":null,"posted":1712262162},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781725
Don’t quite have the equipment for lagers yet but anything on the lighter side would be great, maybe a weissbier or something","attachment":null,"posted":1712263223},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781733
Just brewed this recently. It's a pre-prohibition lager I named Blue Yodel, but W-34/70 can ferment at ale temps. Sorry I don't have a good way to export recipes in brewfather as text. If you can find this style at the store it's worth it, much more flavorful","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712263664904392.png","filename":"1712263500059.png"},"posted":1712263664},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781745,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781733
This is the black IPA I did itt, add the dark malts at the last 30 mins of the mash so you just get color only. It's light on the palette even though it's dark. Coconut, woody, and bourbon notes","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712264271758363.png","filename":"1712264147635.png"},"posted":1712264271},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781749,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781740
>>2781745
Both of these you'll need to scale for your own equipment and also water profile unless you're also sending your water through 6 stages to strip out pfas","attachment":null,"posted":1712264506},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781740
>>2781745
Thanks a lot brother, think I’ll look into the 1st one","attachment":null,"posted":1712292688},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781963
You can do any hop you want with the first one, just check what's cheapest and go with that. Also with W-34/70 do a starter if you can, not a huge deal but will cut a week off of the fermentation time","attachment":null,"posted":1712295842},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2781979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781977
Also by "any hop" I meant any bittering hop (high alpha acid). Just finished that keg today actually kek","attachment":null,"posted":1712295946},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2782988,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779430
I have 4 trees and get too many apples to process easily. Two seasons I used a table-top juicer and it takes days to process them all (chopping apples and juicing one-by-one). Last season I bought a 5ga screw-press off amazon and built my own apple scratter but it took about the same amount of time and even more effort than the juicer (crushing apples then transferring in/out of the press takes a ton of time). This year I am looking at custom-making a giant juicer I can just toss apples in and have juice come out. I can use the press to crush the leavings or use them for "apple grappa". Some seasons I spray for worms and don't have many worms, and last season I didn't spray and had worms... and I fermented them anyway. I didn't notice a difference in the end product. I sprayed once for some kind of white fungus and it went away for good. If you have some idea about how many apples you'll net from your trees you'll be able to figure out what kind of crusher/press to efficiently produce the volume of cider you want to consume/sell. I use only a small fraction of the apples my trees produce and make about 20ga of cider per season. Rough estimate is 1hr labor per gallon. The only thing holding me back on making more is time/effort. I recommend making your process as automatic as possible. If there is some machine you just throw in apples and out comes the juice, get that one and share it on the thread so I can get one too. If you are going to go with some kind of manual press (screw/pump doesn't really make a difference), having a few friends/family help will make the work go faster but it is frustrating that the output is so slow. Last one is there is some kind of pheremone trap you should put out soon to prevent worms in your apples. I will try those this year on advice from a friend.","attachment":null,"posted":1712473957},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782988
I'd just crush the apples and use pectic enzyme to get as much juice as possible with minimum effort. HDPE 220L barrels open ferment, just cover with cloth for a under a week with the apples then transfer to secondary sive tru some cloth to remove pulp and continue closed fermentation with lid and blow off tube.","attachment":null,"posted":1712498610},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783078,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774824
I have a mead that's been in my closet since november.
I let it ferment with a bubbler for 4 week until it stopped but even now long later each time I open it there is significant preassure (multiple seconds of fairly intense hissing).
Surely it can't still be fermenting?
I just used bakers yeast btw","attachment":null,"posted":1712500099},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783090,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783078
It could be a lot of things at this point. If there is eg acetobacter those will very very slowly convert alcohol into acetic acid, producing CO2 as they go. But most bacterial infections should be visible if your vessel is clear. If the escaping gas has a smell, that could give a hint. If you open the vessel often it could just be temperature changes
At least check SG, if there is still some sugar content it’s probably just yeast very slowly fermenting the last bits.","attachment":null,"posted":1712502308},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783093,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779658
Hydraulic presses almost always leak oil, metal shavings will happily settle at the bottom of your barrel and are pretty much inert during fermentation. Not saying hydraulic is better but in reality it shouldn’t matter much and the effects are minimal. I wouldn’t be worried about metal dust, if you are just put a magnet near the threads.
>>2779430
I use a benchtop screw type press, put 10-20 apples at a time, press, then switch the bucket while someone else discards the pulp and loads new apples. Fastest way for me. Makeshift fruit presses using 2x4s and hydraulic car jacks are pretty popular among home cider makers but not worth the effort for me.
If I had a lot of money and 1000+ apples to process I’d probably buy an electric hydraulic one. But I’m pretty sure I can press 200 an hour this way","attachment":null,"posted":1712503132},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783078
>I let it ferment with a bubbler for 4 week until it stopped
If you removed the airlock you have trapped co2 that will slowly release as the preassure is released each time you open.
>>2783090
Good tier advise","attachment":null,"posted":1712518542},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I know rice hulls are a thing, but does anyone put like rocks or inert balls of sorts in a mash to assist with sparging/keeping water flowing?
I have a brewzilla and the grains always seem to be a pita in my malt pipe. The grain gets into a solid mass and doesn't let the pump run well when mashing and it does the same thing and when sparging and keeps the water up top and won't drain.","attachment":null,"posted":1712520292},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783291,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
BTW, still taking recommendations on this.
I dont wanna "spice" with something that is sugary itself, obviously","attachment":null,"posted":1712522763},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
>ideally something to offset the extremely sweet flavour
You could use less honey and have the mead ferment dry thus reducing the extremely sweet flavor..","attachment":null,"posted":1712532165},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783560,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Weird question but are there any problems with adding multi vitamins, protein concentrate, or creatine to beer?
I’m thinking about making lifters lager but I’m not sure how yeast would interact with the additives.","attachment":null,"posted":1712557673},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783577,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778156
I’ve seen images like this before, how can I find more?","attachment":null,"posted":1712560883},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783608,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783093
How do you get a good amount of juice without crushing the apples before pressing them? I have a screw-type press and I am reasonably strong, I don't get much juice from pressing whole apples.","attachment":null,"posted":1712567685},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783623,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783608
Id imagine any damage to the cells prior to pressing would mean less effort during the pressing. Would cutting the apples into rings help >>2783608
at all?","attachment":null,"posted":1712572388},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783560
Ascorbic acid is used for NEIPA style beers, the rest I would add post-fermentation and you might want to kill the yeast first","attachment":null,"posted":1712583398},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783707,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783608
Try freezing and thawing first?","attachment":null,"posted":1712583466},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2783736,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783093
Out of all the hydraulic presses on amazon there's only one that has one review mentioning leaking. The wear on the threads + mystery chinesium is off-putting for a screw press
>>2782988
Crusher + bladder press maybe. There are tons of crushers that are tall enough or have the ability to dump the fruit directly into the mouth of whatever press you're using","attachment":null,"posted":1712586045},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2784116,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778898
>Acetobacter btw are literally everywhere so you can have the best hygiene in the world they're still going to get in your brew unless you made your wort in space or something
Image related btfos your post.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712663113028869.jpg","filename":"stainless_steel_horizontal_laminar_flow_hood_with_spill_tray-2990271157.jpg"},"posted":1712663113},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2784215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781655
it was a lot better today
got it bottled this morning, as well as another cider I had going at the same time
I currently have six litres of cider bottle carbonating and two that are ready to drink
I need more bottles","attachment":null,"posted":1712681141},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2784221,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784215
Such is the struggle of a personal cidery. Glad to hear it panned out though","attachment":null,"posted":1712681976},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2784302,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
cinnamon","attachment":null,"posted":1712693491},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2784349,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
Cumin
Rose
Cardamom
Saffron
Spruce tips
India sells a unique soda called Jeeru that's pretty good and has cumin as its main ingredient. It compliments the sweetness pretty well though you'd have to experiment","attachment":null,"posted":1712698537},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2785958,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
Rosehips or hibiscus/roselle. They're tart, astringent and a little bit floral and they make an excellent mead. If you're too lazy for that, get some Wild Berry Zinger or Raspberry Zinger herbal tea and make a strong infusion and add that instead.","attachment":null,"posted":1712955826},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2786394,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just bottled my first mead and cyser
mead after 19 days of fermentation finished at .99 gravity, 17% abv
cyser after 16 days finished at 1.00, 14.4% abv","attachment":null,"posted":1713054995},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2786404,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have no more bottles","attachment":null,"posted":1713056371},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2787365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"the showdown between treetop and foodclub begins","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713242677579730.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-04-15-21-44-13-53_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1713242677},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2787403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Gonna order some ingredients soon and I wanna make a wheat beer.
What % of the grain bill should be wheat malt just so I know how much to order? Like I know rye is ideal at 30-40% but wondering if wheat is similar.","attachment":null,"posted":1713257402},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2788113,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">had some bits of strawberry floating around
>decide I will let it sink to the bottom, let it clarify for a week
>already backsweetened, just need to get it clear to bottle
>come back in a week
>fuzz all over the surface
Damn, wasted the past few months. This is annoying.","attachment":null,"posted":1713375218},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789126,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just bottled 5 litres of mead and am fresh out of ideas, what's another good easy microbatch I can do which won't require any prep work?","attachment":null,"posted":1713583198},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Thinking of trying to make a Philly sour for the first time. Planning on using a standard Berliner weisse grain bill of 50/50 pils and wheat. Will rack it on a few kg of berries.
I’ve read a lot of people add lactose to round the beer out and give it body, but I don’t want the shit to be sweet like some faggy milkshake drink. Any recommendations for grams of lactose to Liter of beer to benefit from some body without making it sweet?","attachment":null,"posted":1713593115},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789214,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788113
I'd toss bleach in it to spite the mold. Fulfill your biological imperative now you fuzzy bastards.","attachment":null,"posted":1713607633},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789275,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">it’s another “homebrew” general where 95% of the posts are meadcels and only 5% are beer home brewers
Sad.","attachment":null,"posted":1713621768},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789305,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789275
Black IPA and a smash with mosaic hops. Wouldn't recommend together but on their own both are very tasty","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713625552860286.jpg","filename":"1713625383251.jpg"},"posted":1713625552},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789177
Would avoid lactose altogether unless you want a milky flavor. Maybe maltodextrin but you'll give everyone the farts","attachment":null,"posted":1713625857},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789392,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789275
my wife doesn't like beer","attachment":null,"posted":1713638295},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789275
Interesting, given that beer is much cheaper to make than mead.","attachment":null,"posted":1713640216},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789429,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789421
Higher initial cost puts people off. You can make mead in a plastic bucket with 3 ingredients.","attachment":null,"posted":1713640863},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"just brewed a lager with some old hops Hana malt and s-189. it's pekko hops that I got years ago, basically impossible to get where I am now. Doing a 12 liter batch to use essentially as a starter for a pilsner, then a Vienna lager, then a festbeir. Anyone else a cheapskate that uses their yeast several times over? Never used s189 so not sure what I'm in for.
>>2789429
Yeah but who drinks mead. I couldn't imagine my normies friends going for that, they know beer and that makes the homemade aspect more palatable for them I think.","attachment":null,"posted":1713642289},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"how much does a basic beer setup cost, and what is required?","attachment":null,"posted":1713643111},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789449
12 gallon pot, muslin bag, propane jet burner, thermometer, 7 gallon bucket, airlock, enough tubing for a siphon, 60 bottles, capper, crowns","attachment":null,"posted":1713644047},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789530,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789454
I started out with a gallon carboy a 2gallon pot and a Muslim bag. I made 3 batches that way before I bought a brewzillla. The gallon batch equipment cost me £25 pounds in total.
After deciding the hobby was for me I determined that I would likely be able to save money on beer long term.
Since then I bought a brewzillla a few kegs 2 fridges ( one for dispensing and one for fermentation) a steel fermenter (wouldn't buy again) a bench top capper and a few odds and ends totalling at most 700 pounds now. In the last 3.5 years I have brewed at least 600liters of beer at around 70p a litre on average. If I hadpaid for 4.5% macro lager that 600 litres would have set me back at around 1.2k in that timeframe, realistically I was probably buying £3-4/L. So in theory I'm at around £1120 cost (equipment ingredients electricity) so I could argue I've broken even on those terms. I brew higher gravity beers so have avoided more in taxes but I have brewed batches for occasions where I have essentially given away whole kegs. Ultimately I think I brew beer significantly better than macro lager so I'm happy without thinking of the costs. You certainly could do brewing cheaper than I do but it's totally feasible to be breaking even in a few years if you think about the costs on those terms.","attachment":null,"posted":1713654134},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789536,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789442
I'm a noob but I have saved trub in a sanitized container in the fridge for a couple weeks and just pitched it as is. Worked really good and the ferm went really quick because of the high pitch rate.
You can dump new wort right on the old cake too, as long as the style is similar.","attachment":null,"posted":1713655346},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789585,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789275
previous threads have been almost exclusively beer focused","attachment":null,"posted":1713661079},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"place your bets
what'll the final gravity be?
will the d47 push it far enough, or will I need to add some high alcohol wine yeast to make it palatable?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713664070762132.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-04-20-18-44-53-13_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1713664070},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789617,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789305
Yeah I don't know if I'd ever do a black and tan with an IPA but they do look good.
>>2789306
Hmm, hadn't considered maltodextrin. I guess a tiny bit of a milk flavor would be okay if it's just an accenting note. I guess I could split the batch and single dose the bottles but that sounds like it would be a total pain too. Just worried about having a super thin beer, I've had sours with no body before and although enjoyable you can tell they're missing something.","attachment":null,"posted":1713666204},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789530
lmao what kind of clown country do you live in that taxes beer based off ABV","attachment":null,"posted":1713681913},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789668,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789617
I hate sours but consider maltodextrin if all you need is body. Lactose gives a milky/milkshake consistency that's really only good for stouts","attachment":null,"posted":1713682151},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789664
That was the way of things dating back to when people drank beer instead of water because there was no germ theory and brewing was a widow's profession. It's the entire reason for various beer styles being what they are (fitting into tax brackets). You ignorant nigger.","attachment":null,"posted":1713683644},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789675,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789668
I have had and enjoyed sours with lactose. It's generally strong ones that need the sweetness for balance. The souring is already giving a milky funk from Lactobacillus-produced lactic acid so what's a bit more milky funk in a fruity sour.","attachment":null,"posted":1713684019},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789693,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789664
The YoooKay sadly. The tax rate of beers increases at certain above levels. I think wine is subject to less tax at 14% than a imperial stout at 9%. It's specifically punitive on strong beers which is baffling as you can get trollied on wine and spirits cheaper anyway. Every pint I brew is less money going to the tax man.","attachment":null,"posted":1713694811},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789704,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789275
I can buy one of hundreds of beers in the store. Buying mead requires me to hunt down meaderies and spend $25-50 a bottle. Instead I brew it myself for $18 a gallon.","attachment":null,"posted":1713697204},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789607
If it went from 1.156 to 0.990 it would achieve 21.56% which is above even ec-1118 which tops out around 18% on average. D47 will get it to about 12%.
One more problem is if itll stall due to the high sugar content shovking the yeast.
Guessing 1.065 FG","attachment":null,"posted":1713697472},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789775,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789673
Brits didn't start measuring ABV of beer until the 1800s, just before Pasteur made his realization in the 1850s. It was also largely brewed and pioneered by the monasteries in the middle aged, hence the various styles and contents based on what the monks needed. Nice emotional reaction though nigger
>>2789693
Based, fuck the king or whatever","attachment":null,"posted":1713712949},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789861,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789775
Before actually measuring ABV it was based on the grain bill. Plenty of styles developed after commercialization, after the monastic tradition. Stop deflecting and admit that post was fucking stupid.","attachment":null,"posted":1713723780},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789878,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"are those buckets with a tap a meme or actually nice to use? i usually dont bother racking so i just stick a jug in the liquid when i want to drink it but im scared that it might get contaminated","attachment":null,"posted":1713725753},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2789992,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789607
I'd frankly be surprised if D47 did anything at all at that gravity. I'd say 1.010 once you get frustrated and pitch something sensible like 1118. If there's enough nutrition and a warm enough ambient temperature 1118 might even ferment to dry. I'm pretty convinced that shit would ferment anything.
enjoy your rocket fuel/spoilt sugar water (there is no in between with high proof meads)","attachment":null,"posted":1713749420},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">venture into home brewing dedicated forums
>it’s there most vile cesspit of autists screeching at each other over exceedingly esoteric shit like arguing how homebrew isn’t “real beer” if you don’t use a three step decoction on under modified malt (even though 95%+ of all commercial brewers today do infusion or step mashed) because in their autistic mind since that’s how Germans did in 200+ years ago that’s the only “authentic” ale/lager
Why does every niche hobby attract the worst kind of autist that should have been executed at birth?","attachment":null,"posted":1713756794},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790062,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790055
It's not that the hobby attracts them. It's that they can't help but make autistic reactionary posts and there isn't a fuckload of dullard normies to drown them out.","attachment":null,"posted":1713757903},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789861
That would be an ale connor before they used hydrometers but keep spouting random shit that you think sounds smart so we can all laugh at you","attachment":null,"posted":1713779209},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790124,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790055
Not even that, it's wannabe autists that take the first answer they find on quora and shit it back out without thinking so they can sound smart. Happens here all the time","attachment":null,"posted":1713779458},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790126,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789878
Compared to what you're doing they're worth it, unless the jug you're rawdogging into your fermenter is a ram's horn then I'd say continue on","attachment":null,"posted":1713779764},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790130,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789664
>>2789775
>>2790123
Why are you trying to pretend that taxing beer by strength is a weird thing? It was completely normal for a substantial length of time and fighting over details doesn't change that. I'm not about to go digging for citations because I just don't give enough of a fuck. It's comical but sad how you're projecting, but I guess at least you're self aware.","attachment":null,"posted":1713781023},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790133,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789878
they're worth it. you need to replace the tap every few years or you'll risk it breaking and wasting a batch, but they're cheap","attachment":null,"posted":1713782354},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790055
>why does every niche hobby
This is literally every activity in life. There are amateur car guys screeching about slapping a turbo instead of a super onto classic american muscle, when they don't own either. Cars arent a niche hobby.
They're just the know-it-alls who need to feel superior because they're absolute failures in life.","attachment":null,"posted":1713787755},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790148,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790130
Taxing beer at all is weird. Taxation is theft, lets have a Boston beer party.","attachment":null,"posted":1713787835},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790273,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790130
Please, show me your citations. You completely fabricate arguments and then abandon them as if that's some sort of moral high ground.
Beer vs water myth:
https://leslefts.blogspot.com/2013/11/the-great-medieval-water-myth.html
How tax was assessed by taste:
https://zythophile.co.uk/false-ale-quotes/myth-3-medieval-ale-conners-wore-leather-breeches-and-tested-ale-by-pouring-some-on-a-wooden-bench-and-then-sitting-in-it-and-seeing-if-they-stuck-to-the-bench/
Taxing beer based on ABV happens here in the first world as well, it's just the ranges and structure are much more logical. 0.0%, <0.5%, >0.5% are all different brackets since different tax law covers them. Federally real beer (>0.5%) goes by how many barrels you've sold:
https://www.ttb.gov/taxes/tax-audit/tax-and-fee-rates
At the state level it's generally the same rate with some specializations around 3.2 Mormon piss","attachment":null,"posted":1713810928},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789992
the d47 is pumping out some serious gas rn, though it wasn't doing much until I tossed in another round of fermaid O at 24 hrs","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713835744739165.webm","filename":"VID20240422182249 (1).webm"},"posted":1713835744},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790426,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"tfw","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713835824324655.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-04-22-18-20-54-38_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1713835824},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790429,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790425
well I'm impressed
>fermaid O
time to order some of this shit I guess. I love D47 but just got so sick of it getting stuck if I so much as looked at it funny","attachment":null,"posted":1713835990},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790432,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790426
only one casualty among 48 bottles is not too shabby though","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713836257865620.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-04-22-18-36-55-12_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1713836257},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790434,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790429
It was my first time with it, seems like pretty good stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1713836687},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790469,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What do you guys think of this girst for a Philly sour?
Adding the sugar because I read that adding some sucrose during boil will help lactic acid production in the primary ferment.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713841423503671.jpg","filename":"IMG_5243.jpg"},"posted":1713841423},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790701,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Not exactly homebrew but I figured best place to ask. I obtained some home made palinka at the jobsite and want to check the abv, but I have no equipment because I’m in a hotel.
If I slowly raise the thermostat over a few hours and check when it burns with a lighter, can i use pic rel to reliably determine the ABV or nah?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713892866981768.jpg","filename":"BEDAB276-BA22-497C-A25D-B4A3AF86C074.jpg"},"posted":1713892866},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790748,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790701
drnk it and measure how drunk you get","attachment":null,"posted":1713898462},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790768,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713901465390187.jpg","filename":"cherry tree.jpg"},"posted":1713901465},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790829,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm trying to get into distilling, I know nearly nothing. I just wanna find out by trying out. I'm currently fermenting some white grapes for wine (not gonna distill this) and I wanna try fermenting pineapple next which I want to distill.
most 2-10L stills are about 300-500 euromoneys, I think that's a bit expensive for just getting into things. Are there cheaper alternatives to this? I wouldn't mind getting one but it just seems too much.
or just any general advice pertaining to the setup of a still would be appreciated
also this thread doesn't have any OP information? or general guids/tips
I asked in the sqt and anonymous recommended me a countertop water distiller for around €100, I think getting a better one is just better in this case","attachment":null,"posted":1713906898},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790883,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790829
if this is available for you, it should be pretty good. 50l for $120, hopefully it's not too much more expensive if it's available in europe. I've heard pretty good things about vevor homebrew stuff for the price, but with the caveat that they may need more tinkering from time to time to fix shit. but I'm sure the home distillers forum will have all the information you could possibly need to figure things out
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Alcohol-Still-Stainless-Thermometer/dp/B09J582G8M
if I had the space I'd probably get that one myself
found a guy reviewing it on youtube and he said it's the perfect still for beginners who don't want to invest a ton when getting into the hobby. vevor has a few different models, I have no idea what would be best","attachment":null,"posted":1713912595},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2790977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I wish it was legal to distil in my state","attachment":null,"posted":1713931074},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790977
just don't sell anything you make, share it with stupid people, or allow your neighbors to know/be angry with you and you'll likely be fine. seriously, try and find articles about people being arrested for home distilling without one of those qualifiers. and with the latter two, the police will go after you because they assume you're selling it. I found someone on the home distillers forum who got into shit after a neighbor reported him, but he fought and got the charges dropped since he wasn't selling his hooch","attachment":null,"posted":1713943579},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790055
there's a lot of retarded elitism involved in homebrewing desu. for example just dare to suggest using bread yeast and you get verbally lynched
snowflake mead and beer makers are probably the worst","attachment":null,"posted":1713946377},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791021
I wonder if you could get around all that by throwing in some aromatics and saying you were making essential oils with ethanol as the solvent. Especially if you did it with a low temp vacuum distillation setup to gain extra credibility. That was all the rage 10-12 years ago when modernist cuisine came out and food nerds wanted rotary evaporators to copy some of the more esoteric recipes. You can make a vacuum still setup relatively cheap though without a crazy expensive rotavap tho. Now I also wonder how low temp distillation impacts normal alcohol production. I’m sure someone has tried it","attachment":null,"posted":1713947101},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791043,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791038
>no officer this setup is a decade old meme not an illegal still","attachment":null,"posted":1713948422},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791044,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791038
or that you need or prefer distilled water. those fermenting buckets in the corner are of course unrelated, you would never put alcohol in there because that is illegal haha","attachment":null,"posted":1713948687},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791139,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791038
>>2791021
It's illegal to own a stil in my state without a commercial license, so saying you're making something non-alcoholic wouldn't get you off the hook","attachment":null,"posted":1713969075},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790883
>$90 import and shipping fee
>still cheaper and more volume than most I can get locally
wtf!
thanks, that was a big help. I didn't think about looking on amazon, I looked only at local sellers. the price is comparable, for 50L it's €220 (no discount)
>space
they also have smaller ones indeed, I'm still gonna make up my mind but this has been a big help.
semi related general question but I read that the first bit that gets distilled is full of methanol and is toxic, is there somewhere I can read more about this?
>pic
>10L for one person
uuhhhh","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713973327515434.jpg","filename":"81nbvfXiGZL._SL1500_.jpg"},"posted":1713973327},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791157
>>10L for one person
oops I forgot to change it to 5L per person, point still stands (for now until it gets crazy drunk)","attachment":null,"posted":1713973389},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791158
that's input, not output, so you'll get something like 3-6 drinkable liters from 50 liters of input as far as I can tell
>>2791157
as for the methanol question, home distillers forum is probably your best bet, I'm sure they have a frequently asked by newbies thread that covers all that stuff. the big thing I know is that you can't get rid of all of the methanol, some will be present throughout the run, but it's apparently in a bit higher concentrations in the beginning and end of the run. but I'm pretty sure I've also read/heard that the amount present in the first bit are more things like acetone and whatnot rather than methanol. here's a thread I found quickly
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11640
I will say though, I've not spent enough time on the site to know if it's perfect, I just know it's THE resource for home distillers. taking a look at their wiki, it's got a bit of fud concerning freeze distillation, which is surprising since they're pretty good about dispelling other common distilling myths. at least they don't regurgitate that bs about apple palsy that everyone else does when talking about applejack, but I'm getting off topic","attachment":null,"posted":1713985067},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791467,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791043
You let the cop arrest you, the defense is for court
>>2791139
A still is illegal but does that include a low temp still? There’s still explosion risk but instead of the traditional still it’s basically a chamber put under vacuum that you heat much more gently. Because it’s under vacuum the boiling point of the solvent is lowered quite a bit so the working temps aren’t as high but the principle is the same. It still looks sketchy but doesn’t look the same although I suppose the giveaway would be the odor. Either way just don’t get caught. As long as you’re not blabbing to people about your shine you’ll probably be fine","attachment":null,"posted":1714037024},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Have any of you guys actually made good money from this?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714047967936457.jpg","filename":"1713975922513616.jpg"},"posted":1714047967},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791521,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791501
Like from starting a brewery?","attachment":null,"posted":1714052657},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789664
Ireland here and they introduced this bullshit here 2 years ago Supermarket beer nearly doubled in price overnight as did spirits. The cope given was to try and reduce the amount of drinking and funnel the excess taxes earned into the healthcare system. Instead it's being pissed away on all the refugees they are flooding the country with.
Seems to have gotten lots of people into homebrewing though since the webstore I usually use is constantly out of stock of nearly everything.
They'll probably ban homebrewing next","attachment":null,"posted":1714054537},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791529
They do that for a lot of shit in the US as well. "We're taxing you extra to save your own life and the environment" says tyrannists","attachment":null,"posted":1714060399},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791563,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791228
>that's input, not output
oh right I see
>second part
>https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=11640
thanks a lot, that beginner's guide does cover a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1714060625},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791583,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791501
only in that I spend a bit less making a batch than I would by buying the equivalent amount of booze. I have no intention of ever selling what I make, it's just too much hassle.","attachment":null,"posted":1714065344},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791641,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790425
>>2789607
Gravity is down to 1.07
D47 is still going strong","attachment":null,"posted":1714076309},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791933,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"who sells a good quality 5 gal fermenter?","attachment":null,"posted":1714152221},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"beer yeast is too expensive, bros","attachment":null,"posted":1714161252},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"speaking of, is there a difference in yeast for different types of drinks or does it not matter in the end? I imagine the alcohol fermentation process is the same for all, just the the type of ''feed'' (fruits, grain, etc.) or additives it gets matters.","attachment":null,"posted":1714162304},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791980,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791977
yeast is an ingredient, and they produce different flavors","attachment":null,"posted":1714163028},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791933
Depends on what you want and how much you're willing to spend. Anvil isn't bad for a basic stainless steel fermentor","attachment":null,"posted":1714163298},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791974
Could always take a gamble on a wild fermentation, you have all the yeast you need in your backyard","attachment":null,"posted":1714163366},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791986,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791980
I see that makes sense
but how does it manifest, can something taste ''more yeasty'' or not? or does it just take the taste of the type of drink it is","attachment":null,"posted":1714164043},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791991,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791986
The key word is "metabolic pathway."","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714165097402115.png","filename":"fix.png"},"posted":1714165097},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2791993,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791986
some yeast can eat malt sugars better than others, so that's a factor with beer specifically. but other than that they can enhance or create vastly different characters. some yeasts won't really create their own flavors, others will create pineapple flavors, others will create apple flavors. some will even convert some acids into a bit of alcohol, lowering the acidity. you could probably spend the rest of your brewing career following the same recipe but just changing the yeast, along with things like fermentation temps, and you'd get very different results","attachment":null,"posted":1714165423},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792003,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791991
that's pretty cool
I remember saving https://files.catbox.moe/m92eo6.jpg but never looked at it
>goaty
hmmmmmmm
>>2791993
thanks to you both
I think I'm gonna get a book or something that dives deeper into the principles of brewing, I assume that ''Principles of Brewing Science" is a good one?","attachment":null,"posted":1714167631},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792013,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792003
I don't remember if I found that book as a recommendation or just arbitrarily pulled it from a library genesis search but I've only skimmed through it. It is a technical scientific text rather than the for-the-layman conclusions that most brewing books are. You probably would benefit from the latter rather than the former.","attachment":null,"posted":1714169479},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791641
I'm still holding on 1.065 as the final.","attachment":null,"posted":1714172964},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"making a small batch of rhubarb syrup to test out fermenting in 1/2 gallon of cider","attachment":null,"posted":1714175471},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792083,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790432
I know we brew poison, but does the bottle being blue do anything else?","attachment":null,"posted":1714179669},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792086,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791974
>I can't afford $2
Jesus anon that's sad.","attachment":null,"posted":1714179861},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792150,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792086
I guess companies using the 10 cent part instead of the superior 25 cent part are broke, eh?","attachment":null,"posted":1714191849},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792164,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792086
beer yeast is like 4-7 bucks or more a packet compared to 1 for wine yeast","attachment":null,"posted":1714200075},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792150
cope and grow your own yeast if you want it cheaper.","attachment":null,"posted":1714212130},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792252,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792003
Not either of those anons and I’ve never read that book but I can personally vouch for “The Complete Joy of Homebrewinh” by Papazian and “How to Brew” by Palmer.
Both go into a lot of detail of not only yeast but of all of the core foundational knowledge needed for homebrewing.
I think Papazians book is more fun to read, Palmer’s book gets incredibly autistic and mathematical. Both are essentials IMO.
And yes, like the other anon said yeast is just as important to a beer flavor/style as the hops and grains you’re using. They’re wildly different and you can make entirely different beers by changing the yeast alone.","attachment":null,"posted":1714224926},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792263,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792252
Forgot to mention if you read these books make sure to supplement with online info and common sense. They’re a bit old and have some outdated information (recommending a secondary fermentation which no one does anymore, papazian suggests boiling bottle caps which ruins newer caps that have plastic oxygen absorbing seals inside etc)","attachment":null,"posted":1714225963},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792382,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"this hobby is gonna turn me into an alcholic why is it so god damn cheap !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!","attachment":null,"posted":1714244033},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792555,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792083
It blocks light like a brown bottle while also being pretty","attachment":null,"posted":1714266145},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792556,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792029
>>2791641
the d47 is starting to slow down
Going to give it a couple more days then measure the gravity again","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714266210575470.webm","filename":"VID20240427175840.webm"},"posted":1714266210},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2792725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792556
If you've been degassing it and its still bubbling like that, I'm revising my guess to 1.055","attachment":null,"posted":1714309673},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm trying to make the absolute cheapest sugar wash I can for distilling purposes. My plan is to only buy the table sugar, and as far as nutrients go I will just grab some random (or maybe not so random) leaves and blend them into the mix and pasteurize it, with maybe a little bit of vinegar for sugar inversion and pH control. Has anyone here tried this madness before?","attachment":null,"posted":1714366434},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793109
please for the love of god do not do that "nutrient" idea. if you absolutely don't want to buy fermaid o or dap or whatever, buy one of those 1 pound/450g bricks of baking yeast for ~4 dollars (saf is what I'm thinking of specifically, red star also has 1 and 2 pound bricks but they're more expensive for me) and then use boiled bread yeast as your nutrient
also I was curious and quickly looked up the cost per gram of sugar for molasses, blackstrap molasses, and white sugar. grandma's regular molasses gets you 117g sugar per dollar ($30 per gallon), golden barrel blackstrap molasses gets you 119g sugar per dollar ($19 per gallon), and finally walmart brand white sugar gets you 578g sugar per dollar ($3.14 per 4lb). molasses becomes a lot more efficient if you're willing to buy molasses meant for feeding animals, but even then it's a bit less efficient than white sugar at around 338g sugar per dollar, but that was evaluating the first result that didn't seem awful, there might be cheaper stuff out there
check firewater on reddit, I'm sure people have covered how to be as frugal as possible there","attachment":null,"posted":1714376888},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793109
if you want to ferment sugar water to distill without knowing what you're doing then tomato paste is my recommendation
it just werks. my fried liver says hello","attachment":null,"posted":1714383591},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm currently doing a sugar wash and I think its done. Problem is that the water trap still bubbles slightly once every half hour. Question is that can I crash the temperature with a cold water bath to stop any residual fermentation so I can clear it before distilling?
I don't have an alcometer since they seem to be rarer than hens teeth at the moment in my country so I don't know what the final gravity is so I am just going by the bubbling if that makes sense","attachment":null,"posted":1714408832},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793667,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774824
Ive never done any brewing and want to make the fermented drink Tepache.
https://www.simplyrecipes.com/tepache-recipe-5223710
Is there anything I should know so I don't kill myself?
None of the recipes mention any dangers, but it feels very weird to just leave an open container of chopped fruit around for a few days.
I'm a bit nervous but I've tried the drink and it's god tier.","attachment":null,"posted":1714457955},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793689,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793667
I've never made tepache, but I can alleviate most of your worries based on what I know. so when fermenting, botulism is the the scary thing since you can't sense it. if it goes moldy, you can see and smell that and toss it out (there's no fixing it if it truly gets moldy, toss it and start over, but it is common for newbies to assume benign things are mold. mold is fuzzy and usually not white). if something nasty gets going in there and turns it sour, you can smell and taste that, and if it tastes fine congratulations you made pineapple vinegar.
so those aren't worth worrying about, but what about botulism? well there are three things to know about it. it can't grow below 4.6ph (which is why homebrewing is safe, juices and honey are below that, and with beer the yeast will bring the ph down below that fairly quickly), it needs an environment free from oxygen in order to grow, and it takes time to grow. now I'm not sure the ph of the tepache water (I know pineapple juice would be low enough to be safe), but the last two points work against the botulism here. covering a container with something like a cheesecloth allows air in, and you'll drink it all within a week or two. if I had to guess I'd say the tepache water would be similar to beer, where if it's not below 4.6 when you mix it up, it will be once the yeast gets going. I know lots of homebrewers who make tepache use their setups with airlocks and they're not dying of botulism, so if you're really worried about the open container thing (fair enough) then you could buy a cheap wide mouth jar with airlock, or an airlock for a jar you already have. I'd personally go that route since that makes it less likely you'd end up with mold or vinegar","attachment":null,"posted":1714467226},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793883,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791501
I save money by getting over a dozen bottles of alcohol for the same price as buying 4 or 5 bottles of cheap wine","attachment":null,"posted":1714506709},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793689
is botulism even an issue in open air ferments like wild fermenting alcohol? im pretty sure like every other culture out-competes it","attachment":null,"posted":1714508851},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2793922,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793897
I should have used more definite wording than "the last two points work against botulism" and said "the last two points remove botulism as a threat"
but yeah, botulism isn't an issue at all with open air fermentation, mold or some other obvious spoilage will be your worries","attachment":null,"posted":1714511492},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794010,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought an irish red recipe kit to brew my first beer with","attachment":null,"posted":1714522551},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone have any experience with no chill or overnight chill for beer? I brewed a blonde ale that I intend to enter in my states homebrew cup. Just sampled and bottled it yesterday. It's nearly flawless in all regards, except it's a little on the hazy side. My plate chiller is out of commission, so I just stuck it in a sealed container in my fermentation chamber and let it cool overnight. I've seen both sides of the argument saying that not getting a proper cold break can be the cause of haziness, so I can't be sure if this is the reason. I also, didn't use any finings as I ran out and forgot to get more on my trip to the LHBS.
Recipe:
5lbs/45.5% Muntons Marris Otter
5lbs/45.5% Franco Belges Pilsen
8oz/4.6% Briess Honey Malt
8oz/4.6% Briess White What Malt
6g U.S. Magnum @60min
5g Galaxy @35min
5g Czech Saaz @20min
5g Galaxy @5min
1L starter US-05
60min mash @150F
60min boil
Fermentation @68F for 3 days and then slow raised to 72F over two days, followed by 3 day cold crash @35F for a total of 14 days","attachment":null,"posted":1714585062},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794355,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"gonna pick up some buckets from ace to make a few fermenters","attachment":null,"posted":1714589862},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794355
F O O D
O
O
D
G R A D E
R
A
D
E","attachment":null,"posted":1714594989},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794409,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794355
i just nicked a 10l glass carboy from my late grandfather but they're a pain in the ass to clean
i also don't know the difference between plastic and food grade plastic","attachment":null,"posted":1714599511},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793897
competing doesn't have much to do with it as botulism spores are almost indestructable, it just needs a specific environment to do its thing and in the context of brewing the ph is almost always too low
the only stories of people dying of botulism are from prison where they tried to ferment potatoes without knowing what they were doing","attachment":null,"posted":1714599831},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794418,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794409
order your buckets from an online home rew shop to ensure food grade.","attachment":null,"posted":1714600941},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794418
i was aksing what's the difference
do people who nig rig fermenters from buckets get plastic aids and go to hell? it's something i don't know anything about","attachment":null,"posted":1714601788},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794436,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794425
Homedepot food grade buckets and lids, the lids have spouts you can stick a bung and airlock into.
I use them for fermenting kimchi.","attachment":null,"posted":1714602643},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794465,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794385
ace buckets are food grade","attachment":null,"posted":1714605163},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794477,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794425
some are toxic, some cause cancer, and some cause you to become a tranny","attachment":null,"posted":1714607205},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794482,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794425
Flip the bucket over, check that it says HDPE. Check the sticker and make sure it doesn't say recycled HDPE. If both are true then it's food grade. Homer buckets work great but are only 5 gallons. Don't waste money at a homebrew shop for a bucket","attachment":null,"posted":1714607830},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794509,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"there are no homebrew shops within 150 miles of me
What would the cost of entry be if I want to open a homebrew shop","attachment":null,"posted":1714614174},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794518,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794509
Research it and see. Most of the shops I've been to also sell malt in bulk to local breweries, probably not a bad angle if you've got breweries near you since that'd be steadier. Watch Northern Brewer doesn't put you out of business","attachment":null,"posted":1714615283},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794518
I dont know of any breweries in the central Idaho sticks
all the breweries are probably closer to spokane or cour dalene which is where the closest supply stores are","attachment":null,"posted":1714617616},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794532,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794525
Sell to one of these fools","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714618568083293.png","filename":"1714618545290.png"},"posted":1714618568},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794482
that's nearly 20L. how much booze do you need?","attachment":null,"posted":1714669397},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794778,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"two more fermenters added to the lineup","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714677803655147.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-02-12-22-13-93_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1714677803},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794788,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794738
5.5 gallons post-fermentation","attachment":null,"posted":1714679866},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2794978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"55 out of 65 gallons of corny kegs full. Feels good. Separate kegerator not pictured. Planning to ferment another 10 gallons of cider soon, and a 15 gallon batch of hefeweisen. Most of that will go into bottles.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714712931250871.jpg","filename":"1713357337949.jpg"},"posted":1714712931},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795281,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Picked this guy up for less than half price, brand new out of the box. Overkill but nice throwing some one-step in there and walking away. Heats the water to 167°F","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714788865460417.png","filename":"1714788739670.png"},"posted":1714788865},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795343,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I saw a Mr. Beer at the second hand store for $9. Just the tank and bottles, no flavour syrup cans. Is it worth it?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714799746387277.jpg","filename":"9_luchshih_domashnih_pivovaren_exp_3.jpg"},"posted":1714799746},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795343
Nah","attachment":null,"posted":1714802816},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795542,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792725
>>2789607
Down to 1.038
It is super sweet, but I think it's passable as it is as a desert wine
racked it into another carboy for aging","attachment":null,"posted":1714849827},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795543,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795542
proof","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714849889443234.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-04-11-50-56-28_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1714849889},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795544,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If I wanted to grow hops which varienty would give me the most millage? I prefer amber and irish red ales","attachment":null,"posted":1714850605},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795572,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795544
We only grow noble hops since they're usually the biggest hop expense. Centennial, cascade, chinook, mount hood. Growing is easy, you won't get a lot your first year but after that as long as you take care of the rhizomes you'll get good yields. Drying is a pain, as is using them. You won't get max utilization if you use a hop spider and just throwing them in a pot will clog everything. Wish there was an affordable pelletizer","attachment":null,"posted":1714855070},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795584,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"brew day","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714855969494147.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-04-13-51-42-12_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1714855969},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795691,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"happy pascha, brothers
Christ is risen!","attachment":null,"posted":1714878520},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2795777,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795542
>aging that
lipstick on a pig desu","attachment":null,"posted":1714910832},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796037,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795777
I'm mostly concerned about it not actually being done fermenting and exploding in the bottle","attachment":null,"posted":1714949876},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"my local grocery store has about 2 dozen chinese and japanese crab apple trees in their boulevard. do you think they'd mind if some dumbass came and foraged all their fruits in the autumn. I highly doubt they mean for them to be anything but ornamental","attachment":null,"posted":1714954848},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796073,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796070
You could easily ask the manager instead of being a nigger","attachment":null,"posted":1714955218},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796535,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My mead has been going since january. Think it’s time to rack into another container? I want to bulk age this one until next year at least.
In the meantime, I was thinking about starting a strawberry mead. Any recipes?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715040793171421.jpg","filename":"B4E34217-9D0E-4DBB-A0CD-41F0F4B48324.jpg"},"posted":1715040793},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796549,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796535
Have you tried degassing it?
Is it kept in a cool place?
Did you take SG readings?
I am wondering if it is just releasing trapped CO2.","attachment":null,"posted":1715045312},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796549
no need to degas it if he's aging it
it's done fermenting, but the flavor of mead changes pretty signiciantly over the course of 1-2 years post fermentation","attachment":null,"posted":1715059247},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796699,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794788
i was actually strolling around in the hardware store just now, to see if they sell buckets with a lid to explore my options and to my surprise i found one with markings on the side up to 25L but 30L total capacity, exactly what i was looking for
PP on the bottom with a glass and fork sign so i presume that means it's food grade
only €14 as well. i'm not buying that anytime soon but if my alcoholism deranges even further i know where to go","attachment":null,"posted":1715096893},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2796776,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796599
Best I ever made was aged three plus years.
I still have a few bottles left.","attachment":null,"posted":1715113601},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797030,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796037
perhaps you can fortity it a bit to make sure the abv limit has exceeded
i absolutely hate sweet wine but when it's stronger like porto or becherovka i don't mind it that much","attachment":null,"posted":1715175792},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797292,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793159
>>2793177
I said fuck it and did it anyway, just a three cups shy of a gallon test with one pound of the cheapest sugar available and only leaves from plants I know to be benign. The blending and pasteurizing of the leaves was kind of messy but not horribly so, the end result was basically a herbal infusion I'd actually drink no problem. The rest of the process was pretty standard, and after just three hours of pitching it's bubbling like crazy. It's a bit frothy but I kind of expected it since I intentionally sought leguminous plants for the leaf infusion, and the blending was to make sure the cells spilled their protein rich guts. I'll post back when the bubbling slows down.","attachment":null,"posted":1715219209},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797324,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bros I want to bottle straight from the spigot in my 5 gal but it's got a ton of sedemint
how should I got about this? It's my first time brewing a 5 gal batch
I have a second bucket with a spigot but I'd prefer just bottling straight from primary if possible","attachment":null,"posted":1715226161},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797324
You need to add a sugar for the bottle to carbonate. If you want to bottle straight from primary you'll have to measure the right amount into each bottle, then you can put your beer in and cap it. If there's a lot of sediment just let it run slowly into another bucket until it starts to come out clear, then fill your bottles. A little sediment is fine and should drop out after a couple days anyways, just go slow on filling for minimal disturbance","attachment":null,"posted":1715229075},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797361,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797346
aight, thanks brother
I already know 1/2 tsp per 500 mL bottle is about the carbonation I'm aiming for since I've done that level with cider before
I'll try pre-draining it until it runs clear
I'll probably put it in a cup and drink it while bottling","attachment":null,"posted":1715231117},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797420,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797324
Sounds like you already know what to do. Pour into bucket 2, then the sediment transferred should be below the spigot and you can bottle from bucket 2. You'll likely have to wait a few days for it to resettle though.","attachment":null,"posted":1715257402},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797292
sounds like a lot of effort for a questionable source of nutrients when tomato paste is proven to work and they sell it everywhere","attachment":null,"posted":1715263677},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2797470,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797361
if i were you i'd measure the actual weight of a teaspoon of sugar first. using teaspoons instead of the actual weight in my opinion is already burger retardation but using that unit to carbonate is just bad
brewing is one of the few things where i never guestimate. a bit of extra sugar in your cake, fine, it will be a bit sweeter, but a bit of extra sugar in your bottle and you'll find out the hard way","attachment":null,"posted":1715265155},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to make wine. Problem is, I live nowhere near where grapes grow. Where can I get some good wine grapes?","attachment":null,"posted":1715375405},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798057,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797470
the bottles I use are rated to 100 psi
there is absolutely no way I could blow them up with an extra half gram of sugar","attachment":null,"posted":1715375895},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798058,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798049
just use juice from the store, or you can order concentrates if you want to make a specific kind","attachment":null,"posted":1715376349},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798516,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bottlin day","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715468519782479.jpg","filename":"1715468446238.jpg"},"posted":1715468519},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"my first beer
it's a bit cloudy, didn't add anything to help clarify it though, definitely will next time
Tastes pretty good though, once I'm down to a couple litres of it I'll order some stuff to try an all grain batch","attachment":null,"posted":1715470689},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798532,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798516
>>2798531","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715470757929050.jpg","filename":"IMG20240511163640.jpg"},"posted":1715470757},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798541,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798516
How well do those twist-off bucket lids work for you? Do they hold an air-tight enough seal for a CO2 blanket to form over the ferment? I thought of getting a couple and adding grommets for airlocks.","attachment":null,"posted":1715473558},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798546,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798541
yeah it worked great
you gotta tighten it down real hard to get a good seal though","attachment":null,"posted":1715474080},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798839,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798541
doesn't really matter in my opinion. i have a couple of stoppers that don't perfectly seal either with a dead airlock but it doesn't matter at all. just make sure bugs can't get in and you should be fine
>my seal isn't perfect
>oh no!
>anyway","attachment":null,"posted":1715532588},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798847,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798839
That's why I said air-tight enough for a CO2 blanket to form. You just need to keep the bugs and drafts out so oxygen can't hit the surface.","attachment":null,"posted":1715534558},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2798874,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797470
>Measure your sugar to three decimals cause "brewing is one of the few things where i never guestimate"
>>2798839
>Proceeds to guestimate
>>2798847
If you're trying to make the best beer possible then you should strive for a completely sealed fermentor. Simply preventing drafts doesn't matter since it's convection you're up against; cold air from outside will naturally want to replace the warmer air trying to escape from inside. The "CO2 blanket" is not some impermeable force field","attachment":null,"posted":1715539531},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799495,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791157
have you bought it or are you still shopping around? I did some more research since then, and that might not be the model to go with. a lot of people say thumper boxes are outdated and are more likely to cause problems, and then also that thumper box is smaller than it should be. so this would presumably be the one to go with, if you still went with vevor, 50 or 38l
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-50L-Distillery-Condenser-Pump/dp/B09L7YKY97
https://www.amazon.com/Moonshine-Still-Stainless-Distiller-Thermometer/dp/B07TNR4QF1/","attachment":null,"posted":1715673266},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799563,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799495
my bad I should've said what I did afterwards
I bought the 50L, my dad also wants to get into it so he was just get it and we'll see
lurking a bit more I've noticed a lot of people here are ''intermediate or advanced level'' and I understand very little so I'm just gonna fuck around and find out
I still stand by my point that the OP should have at least some basic guide/info to get started but it's fine, I know it takes work","attachment":null,"posted":1715698306},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799581,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798874
there's a difference between a leaky seal and blowing up bottles left and right because properly measuring the priming sugar was too much work
i can't and won't stop you from making potential bottle bombs, it's just my suggestion
>Simply preventing drafts doesn't matter since it's convection you're up against
what kind of open fermentation do you think we're talking about here. the leaks act as a pressure relief valve, no way oxygen is getting in there unless maybe from diffusion when it's done but that is going to take a very long time
when you reach that point you should have bottled it long ago","attachment":null,"posted":1715702420},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799581
Research your arguments first. Try varying the CO2 volumes in the bottle conditioning calculator of your choice for a 500ml batch so you can understand that small variances have little effect. 2-3 volumes is the sweet spot, which is between 2-4g depending on the sugar. This is larger than the margin of error in a kitchen teaspoon: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37875630/
>the leaks act as a pressure relief valve, no way oxygen is getting in there
I don't even know where to begin when you're starting things off at this level of brown retardation","attachment":null,"posted":1715709915},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799699,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791501
In the US it's difficult to just open up a brewery or winery or distillery.
Most people just do it as a hobby like baking.
It's cheaper than going to a craft brewery but more expensive than your shit beer like bud light.
Mead making is actually worth its time and effort.
Let us know if you have any other shitty questions.","attachment":null,"posted":1715722402},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799642
someone here is completely clueless about CO2 production and CO2 saturation disolved in liquid and it isn't me
you're a mongrel i get it but try to keep the insecurity about you being mystery meat to yourself instead of projecting your browness onto others
and if a bottle goes off in your hand perhaps there won't be much of a loss here if it hits one of your arteries. darwinism doing its thing i suppose","attachment":null,"posted":1715724499},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799642
also, try reading your own link, perhaps try bringing one up that is relevant. and this isn't about small variances, this is about using sloppy units where you'd better be accurate instead and responding to >>2797361 being off by 100%, more or less, who knows :)
maybe you'll end up with a fountain instead of a bomb, good for you, but i'm trying to avoid that","attachment":null,"posted":1715725178},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2799741,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799740
or am i supposed to interpret 1/2 as 0,5 instead of 1-2
use decimals ffs you fucking animal. and real weight units while you're at it","attachment":null,"posted":1715725312},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2800006,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799741
>>2799740
1/2 is 0.5, retard
why the fuck would I specify a range when talking about a measurement?","attachment":null,"posted":1715793615},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2800214,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"8 liters of store bought “natural” apple juice (from concentrate but no preservatives or anything added on the ingredients, I checked).
2KG of sugar
2 grams of EC-1118 yeast (activated in warm water with sugar)
A handful of raisins disinfected with booze.
Now bubbling away happily. Was concerned that the high initial sugar content would hamper the yeast but it seems to be fine.
We’ll see where this takes us, first time brewing with actual brewers yeast and not live breadyeast","attachment":null,"posted":1715824316},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2800300,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800214
Nice dude! You gonna backsweeten or go dry?","attachment":null,"posted":1715838576},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2800371,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800300
I’m honestly not sure, I I’ll probably test it around 12% ABV and judge the sweetness then. I bought some yeast stopper and a hydrometer along with the yeast","attachment":null,"posted":1715865495},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2800607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774824
I had a great time as an amateur homebrewer when my mom went to the local brew-pub and asked if i could shadow for a day.
I learned about all the ins and outs and did some labor like brooming all the used barley into cans for the local countryside farmers pigs. i got to walk into the hop fridge and see boxes of hops that were 1000$+ each
Added some hops. the brewmaster was a traditional dude and soft spoken. I got to drink a beer after the day ended,
"You brew one, you drink one!"","attachment":null,"posted":1715909367},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801315,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does /hbg/ have any noob frenly how-to info graphs?
t. New lurker and I would like to into brewing","attachment":null,"posted":1716064098},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801382,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801315
well what do you want to brew?","attachment":null,"posted":1716070965},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801382
Anything I'm not picky but mostly interested in kombucha and mead.","attachment":null,"posted":1716077255},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801452,"name":"Walking Corpse","msg":"I'm making beer, wine, and liquor out of black hensbane and blue lotus and I can't be convinced it's a bad idea.","attachment":null,"posted":1716083607},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797459
>a questionable source of nutrients
That's actually how I'd describe the tomato paste they sell near me, and while I have no problem looking a little harder for the genuine, organic stuff, it still costs more than zero pesos, which works against my original objective.
That being said I don't deny the leaf paste is kind of a pain to work with, though. The foaming got pretty ridiculous the day after pitching the yeast, so much so it spilled over like three times, I'm glad this was just a small test. On Thursday I thought it was going to do it again in the distiller but fortunately it behaved pretty well.
The end result was pretty good if I do say so myself, at least compared with the two other times I did it with molasses. Aside from that it was actually fun to experiment with this stuff, the yeast seemed to love it and it didn't produce any off flavors, so I'll definitely try more leaf concoctions in the future, hopefully less foamy ones.","attachment":null,"posted":1716089709},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I can get my dirty slimy hands on horticulture grade nutrients, would that be fine or is it not good enough since it's not food grade? What could be the worst that would happen if a lower grade was used?","attachment":null,"posted":1716126529},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are there any good books or guides on sake making? I want to isolate each part of the process and try all available techniques so that I can make the best homebrew possible.","attachment":null,"posted":1716146005},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2801759,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801719
its not purely about sake but consider reading Koji Alchemy if you want to do every step of the process by first growing koji mold for amazake, good book for koji fermentation in general but havent done any of the sake recipes in it yet.","attachment":null,"posted":1716150272},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"just bought antibacterial sanitiser. i just have a simple question, what's the difference between soap and antibacterial desinfectant soap? isn't soap inherently antibacterial?
checked the label and there's some acid in it apparently but other than that dunno","attachment":null,"posted":1716305078},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802599
they put like 0.5% of an ammonia biocide like bac or ddac.
squirt some kitchen spray into your pump soap and shake it, now it's antibacterial soap.","attachment":null,"posted":1716307552},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802611
>squirt some kitchen spray
yeah it's kitchen spray
read the label and it list 0,1% benzalkonium chloride in the ingredients but the rest is very vague shit like non-ionic surface active stuff, parfume, lemons, and "desinfectants"
thanks guys, the desinfectant contains disenfectants, very useful information
it says antibacterial on big letters on the label that's why i bought it like the gullible idiot i am but for the price i could also have bought 3L of bleach
that might have been overkill and damages your clothes so i went with that instead.
>just get star san bruh
relatively hard to come by here and i like to buy everything physically in nearby stores","attachment":null,"posted":1716312213},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802657,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802643
don't buy the big jugs of bleach.
bleach gets weaker while sitting in the jug; in 2-3 months it won't even smell of chlorine, and after a year it's just blue piss.","attachment":null,"posted":1716314805},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802672,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802657
they only sell it by 2 or 5L
probably because if they only sold them in smaller units they wouldn't make any profit and instead make you buy enough to guarantuee 90% goes to waste, it's not exactly expensive","attachment":null,"posted":1716318339},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802723,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802599
answering my own question here, perhaps i should google it first but i suppose asking anon's insight can't hurt, that' why we're here init
>Yes. When you wash your hands, you transfer a thin film of bacteria, skin flakes and oils to the bar of soap. A 2006 study of 32 dental clinics found bacteria growing on the soap in all of them – after all, standard soap doesn't kill bacteria, it just dislodges them
maybe i didn't got memed into buying more expensive antibacterial cleaner after all","attachment":null,"posted":1716326208},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2802946,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791501
There was one Germanon who posted in these threads ages ago who sold mead at farmers markets and made some money off it. Sounded like an insane hassle from the documentation he had to fill, sanitary inspections of his brew place and taxes he had to pay.
Commercial brewing is all about economy of scale. Making 5L of beer is more or less the same effort as making 20L, which is the same as making 100L etc. What costs more is storage, equipment, transportation etc. Because of this you'll never outcompete commercial brewers who have their production, storage and distribution lines set up unless you have the capital to rent a factory space, buy commercial brewing, fermenting and bottling equipment etc. and somehow negotiate distribution with vendors who are already up to their ears in local craft beers. Even then your hope as a fledgling craft brewer is that your brand name makes it kind of big and one of the giant conglomerates offers to buy you out to expand their product range.","attachment":null,"posted":1716370658},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803048,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802946
Still doesn't mean you can't make a few million, even if craft brewing is 25% of the market share or whatever. I think where a lot of retards end up going out of business is when they try to expand too soon or stop paying attention to their customers. In my area we just lost 2 breweries because of this, though they blamed it on SBA jewry and customers not patronizing anymore","attachment":null,"posted":1716393012},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803076,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803048
The point of the post is that you have to already be a millionaire to afford the scale of production that could make you a few million in the first place.
Nobody's making money selling a couple dozen bottles of oatmeal stout brewed from all grain out the back of their car
The only conceivable way to make money off of homemade alcohol would be illegal in most countries (moonshining), especially if you can distill stuff stronger than 40%","attachment":null,"posted":1716397961},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803076
Of course if you have a few million saved you could start a brewery outright, but for the rest of us you save up a couple hundred thousand dollars, look at what grants your local municipality offers, take out SBA loans and finance the rest with a good bank. Brewer's bonds are usually <5% of bond amount as long as you have good credit, brewer's notification is free, and then hopefully you live in a reasonable enough state like Ohio where a liquor license is $1500. After that it's real estate, equipment cost, and ingredients. You make it sound like it's impossible when it's not, you can start a brewery on a skeleton budget and after a year or two be in the black. You don't have to start a full-fledged fucken factory in Golden Colorado","attachment":null,"posted":1716400212},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803620,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2776074
Juniper could work, but I'd experiment with wormwood and gentian first.","attachment":null,"posted":1716500196},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803624,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Thoughts on foraged ingredients? Where I'm moving there's plenty of crabapples, hawthorn, wild hops, and other fermentable ingredients. I want to make something dry and floral for later distillation.","attachment":null,"posted":1716500663},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803620
>>2803624
Related to this, any joggers here made their own vermouth before? I have an empty 5L carboy and my family loves vermouth. Do you just heat up plunk wine with some sugar and botanicals and then let it sit? What kinds of herbs do you add to it?","attachment":null,"posted":1716505455},{"board":"diy","thread":2774824,"pid":2803783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803624
supremely based, efficient, and just all around cool. I'm taking notice of all the crabapples around me that I was oblivious to previously. there are like a dozen large ones in a nearby park, so I'll definitely be out there with a tarp shaking them off the tree once they're ripe and falling off on their own
also some hackberry trees, currant bushes, and (small) hawthornes. I'll definitely be adding around 10-20% crabapple juice to my ciders this autumn, the other stuff will depend on how fruitful they are.
not foraging, but I've got a friend with some apple trees in his yard. hopefully they produce fruit this year so I could make a fully local cider. it's really tempting to harvest and isolate wild yeast so it's truly local
definitely not an issue if you plan on distilling, but crabapples are often highly concentrated. specific gravities of 1.080 aren't uncommon","attachment":null,"posted":1716541709}]}
{"title":"New tool day (NTD) aka consoomer thread","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Post what you've acquired recently and why little paypiggies","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711636290401646.jpg","filename":"444.jpg"},"posted":1711636290},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778282,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"2nd hand set of wood chisels from the scrap store","attachment":null,"posted":1711636381},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778291,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Gearwrench 84 tooth flex head 4 piece ratchet set and gearwrench auto-bite pliers 4 piece set. Why? After I heard toolbarn was going out of business I browsed their blowout sale and these seemed to be an ok price. $87 for the ratchet set, the only flex head I owned was a long handle Pittsburgh 3/8 so this is a nice expansion for the socket drawer. The plier set was $35 so for roughly $9/pc I plan to just leave them scattered around. One at my work bench, in each glovebox of my two vehicles, one in a kitchen drawer. Can't hurt to have around, they seem nice.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711637006388325.jpg","filename":"20240327_192320.jpg"},"posted":1711637006},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought some Crescent adjustable wrenches from a vendor that claimed they were new-old stock made in USA wrenches from a warehouse lot they purchases. Both arrived in packaging that said made in USA but neither have it stamped on the tool anywhere, wondering if there could be shenanigans going on. But either way, I got a 10" for $16 and a 15" for $40 which is about the same price as their current chinese made adjustables so... not like I got hardcore scammed if they're not","attachment":null,"posted":1711641051},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778332,"name":"Këbin Vann Damm","msg":">>2778280
Awww yeeeaaaa
I ordered me some $38 Knipex and a ball joint puller kit. Got some counterfeits, returned em, got the real ones eventually.
>>2778291
Those are nice. I think the 84T has the smallest heads compared to the 120 and even the 90, and the 120 isn’t even worth it because the 84T are so smooth.
Also my 3/8” GW flex is probably my most used ratchet because the handle is a little longer than normal but not like breaker bar length. It’s the perfect size,","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711641871141695.jpg","filename":"IMG_7896.jpg"},"posted":1711641871},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778291
damn thats actually really solid on both of those. I might go see if they still got that shit available and grab a set to upgrade from my hazard freight shit
>>2778332
what in the alibaba temu chinesium fuck is that shit? I've never even fucking heard of twingrip knock offs circulating around until this post, jesus","attachment":null,"posted":1711653835},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778419,"name":"Bepperoni","msg":">>2778386
Look at the official Twingrip posting on Amazon and click on the 1-star reviews. I’m not the only person. It’s hard to tell if somebody returned the Chinesium or some independent chink vendor snuck in on the Knipex official page and sold that. It may have been the latter if Amazon themselves ran out for a day or two so they Prime same-day’d me the nearest third party seller. In between the time I ordered and the time I received the real one, I watched the Twingrips drop from 4.9 to 4.8 stars, and I guarantee it was because of the fakes.
The jaws of the knockoff were so bad.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711656579415141.jpg","filename":"B2346819-7E76-459A-A336-87CBC3F8DDF1.jpg"},"posted":1711656579},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778426,"name":"Bepperoni","msg":">>2778386
Gearwrench goes on sale on Amazon a lot, I’ve seen the 4pc 84T set go on sale around that price from time to time.
Got a couple Icon shits from HF I still need to use too. They send me those random “We miss you! Here’s 20% off!” and I’m a sucker for a coupon so I snagged a larger pipe wrench and those Snap On pistol grip pliers with the screw grabber tip, it looks like it might be good for a retarded clip or plug in an engine bay from time to time.
Also don’t forget to check your local Lowe’s for clearance steals. Those Cobras got disco’d in store awhile back when they got all the Klein so some employee stuck them on the tiny Wiha endcap they have by those Cobra knockoffs with red grips. I brought em to the register and they rang up for $11. And the Demel accessories were like $8-$9 off of $39, and Dremel consumables seem to last longer than the generic kits you can find for cheap. There were some of those Craftsman Overdrive kits for cheap too, that would be a nice kit for the trunk of the car if I needed one.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711657601628675.jpg","filename":"22199753-6127-4104-915D-88DE551743A7.jpg"},"posted":1711657601},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778468,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pic rel is just what i have on me, my toolbag contains screwdrivers, drill bits (for the drill), paintbrushes, hammer, driver bits, sandpaper, etc
I am trying to get into home DIY, I am not sure how far I'm willing to go, the caulk gun is my newest purchase, I am hoping to get into basic woodworking and joinery though so I will need chisels, a set of wood saws, I'd also like to purchase an oscillating multitool to cut away at wood, metal and other things if they need replacing/fixing
I currently cannot afford expensive powertools and I am aware that without a circular saw, sander, planer, router, mitre saw, I am never going to get any "serious" work done. But the goal is for me to have an extremely compact tool kit which enables me to do 80% of things, and the remaining 20% will be a long journey through the years where I learn and encounter big jobs.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711662630565331.jpg","filename":"Untitled.jpg"},"posted":1711662630},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778496,"name":"I love","msg":"Came in the mail today. Not sure if I will keep it or resell it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711665698992812.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240328_213245_BURST1.jpg"},"posted":1711665698},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778862,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
buying a chinkshit grease gun soon. any recommendations?
>wife wants camper trailer
>buys it with her own money
>one more thing i have to maintain
>axles need greased twice a year","attachment":null,"posted":1711733804},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778934,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2778862
Is there that much of a difference in them? I would assume they’re all really similar except that I bought a cheap Anvil caulk gun and proceeded to wreck if with a tube of silicone that was just a little bit starting to dry.
I got picrel when I saw it on clearance for real cheap at HD. It works I guess.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711744719717540.jpg","filename":"image.jpg"},"posted":1711744719},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2778962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778934
>Is there that much of a difference in them?
Well, data point of one, but I got the same one you have there online, without the branding. I don't mean similar, I mean...literally I can't see any differences anywhere between mine and yours outside of the lettering.
Looks like the same model is still sold, but it's blue now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166596281719
Has worked fine for me for occasional use, can't really say more than that.","attachment":null,"posted":1711749789},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779016,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2778962
Kek I’m not surprised to see the same shit unbranded as Lucas Oil would never actually make a tool. I don’t remember what the original price was, but I’m pretty sure it was discounted a bunch and was closer to $10 with the clearance tag. The handle and stuff seemed better than the cheapest HF model, but I haven’t tried to pump grease in an Alaskan winter with it yet. Not much consoomer stuff comes with zerk fittings anymore so it doesn’t get a lot of miles.","attachment":null,"posted":1711757113},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779028,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I love this lil fella like you wouldn't believe, seems like a decent deal at $200
Having exact perpendicular lines is so fucking handy, and paired with an adjustable tripod it's very versatile","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711759695535818.png","filename":"bosch-5-point.png"},"posted":1711759695},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779230,"name":"Këbin Vann Damm","msg":">>2779028
I got the cheaper Bosch one awhile back and got one for the father in-law too when they were like $40 during the holidays. Still want to grab the tripod. It’s nice for hanging these stupid floating shelves that women love","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711801068380397.jpg","filename":"IMG_7689.jpg"},"posted":1711801068},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Not new, but got these Kobalt vice grips at a garage sale. Pretty much unused. Never seen these at a store. Are they good, shit, or what?
Neat feature to follow ...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711851919294137.jpg","filename":"IMG_3248.jpg"},"posted":1711851919},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779604,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779603
Neat (?) feature: Button on bottom of handle switches the handle function from "squeeze jaws" to "release jaws". Works nicely one-handed instead of the usual release lever inside the handle. But I couldn't find another at the store.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711852085474626.jpg","filename":"IMG_3251.jpg"},"posted":1711852085},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
i finally folded and bought a picrel while doing rennovation... and it's become my most useful tool. i'm used to the auto world where the more specific a tool is, the better it is, but this thing is a better scraper than my scraper, better pry bar than my pry bar etc. the other tool getting consistent use is my oscillating multi tool","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711852884378693.jpg","filename":"5e618c05245d2a414d9f580b_Painter-Tool-9-in-1-Putty-Scraper-Multitool-Level5Tools-5-200.jpg"},"posted":1711852884},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2779660,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"With proper Bessel point stand of course.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711860551804481.jpg","filename":"signal-2024-03-30-14-42-26-178.jpg"},"posted":1711860551},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Tired of having mix sets of sockets/wrenches from different brands, different markings, etc. Ordered up a 153-piece Milwaukee set and a Gearwrench 32-piece ratcheting wrench set, about $800 total.
>>2779028
Keep trying to convince myself to get one of these. Will probably do it this summer when I reside the house.","attachment":null,"posted":1712014943},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780448,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779660
tfw no grade A surface plate","attachment":null,"posted":1712015371},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778426
The puller on the right is my favorite.
Well it was till my idiot boomer boss welded the cup to the shaft.
Fucking retard.","attachment":null,"posted":1712021670},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780561,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Arnold commands me to go into lidl to the non-food section everytime I am close. This time I picked up this for 20 eurobucks. Dont need it REALLY but want to play with it. Remove some bolts from my car like billie Herrington and rub my chest. Use it for some power cool things well see","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712039343428226.jpg","filename":"lidl.jpg"},"posted":1712039343},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780651,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780561
>tfw you finally want to take the parkside pill, because a class H vac for 250€ is just too tempting but of course it's sold out.
I don't even need an H, but I guess an M makes sense, but fuck, are they expensive, so parkside seemed like the easy way out.
tl;dr:
whats a good, cheap shop vac?","attachment":null,"posted":1712062049},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780669,"name":"Këbin Vann Damm","msg":">>2780561
Damn, for $20, can’t lose. If you do much wrenching at all or remove wheels on your car more than once a year, it’s worth getting down on a 1/2” rattle gun so you don’t have to deal with breaker bars while the car is on the ground. It’s like a 20+ minute savings every time you need to pull the wheels off a car and reinstall them.","attachment":null,"posted":1712065341},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone else addicted to buying shitty little components all the time? Mosfets, solenoids, DC motors, threaded rods... The list is endless. I wish I could be into buying shoes or something like a normie.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712066999520176.jpg","filename":"1710006435601907.jpg"},"posted":1712066999},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780845,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2780679
I did that with some resistors and other electronic components and haven’t used any of it, so I haven’t bought that crap in awhile. Haven’t had the time to go balls deep into electronic projects.
I’m a sucker for a hardware assortment or some automotive plastic clips. Sometimes a pack of 5 clips that you need one of is like $8 shipped, but a big assortment is $12, and I’ll always grab the assortment. But it feels good when you need an oddball door trim clip for a Toyota Corolla and it’s buried in a 500pc grab bag you bought on Prime Day 2019 for $7.99.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712091438854202.jpg","filename":"A441BE5D-BB38-4CC2-A0EA-E8EBB88E2ADB.jpg"},"posted":1712091438},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780850,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780651
I was looking into a dry wet vac from parkshite. Their corded ones are supposedly decent but battery powered are crap. I should pick one up soon.
>>2780669
I must have 25+ parkside thingies by now I really love it. Got a bunch of battery powered things like several lights and even a power bank attachment man I love parkside im a parkside boy desu
Yeah I was fiddling with car chairs the other day the bolts cannot be moved but now I can finally do it i think. What you mean I cant remove the tire with the car included tire wrench?","attachment":null,"posted":1712091871},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780856,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780679
No, but I do almost always overbuy on small stuff when I need it. I think my worst offense so far was needing like...2 or 3 quad comparator chips.
I still have almost all of the entire reel of 2500 that I bought.","attachment":null,"posted":1712092621},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2780862,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2780850
You can remove it with the regular tire wrench if it’s not overtightened, but when you swap wheels with hand tools, you have to crack all 16/20+ lugs loose with the car on the ground and parking brake on, then lift the car in the air and slowly spin them off by hand, and then the reinstall is 20 nuts on by hand and get it fairly tight, then lower the car and go tighten all 20 nuts again.
Compared with the ugga dugga, lift the car in the air, zip off 20 nuts in like 60-90 seconds, and the reverse with a second or two of hammering with the car still in the air and it’s good to go as soon as you drop the jack.","attachment":null,"posted":1712092965},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2781074,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
I bought a Barometer so I know what the weather is doing outside while I'm working. Saves me getting grease on my phone","attachment":null,"posted":1712136980},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2781075,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780862
I just crack them with one side of the car lifted, replace wheel, tighten, drop it, then lift the other side, once its all done, retighten on ground
the 5cm drop isn't going to do any damage if it slips anyway","attachment":null,"posted":1712137353},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2781165,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Bought a 7 piece set of these proto antivibe ballpeen. I knew of the mac tools version because I had used one before at my last job, but I wasn't willing to pay $60/hammer for a set. Apparently I've been living under a rock and didn't know they sell the exact same fucking thing rebranded under proto for about half the price on amazon","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712159867950364.jpg","filename":"98-652-1-Proto-AntiVibe-Ball-Pein-Hammer__10197.1550597471.jpg"},"posted":1712159867},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782319,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Soon...
Found the website for some independent brick & mortar store in ohio that had a site wide 10% discount for st patricks day and I grabbed two sets of wright tools wrenches they had already quite competitively priced compared to amazon and ebay. 18 piece metric (7-24) and 14 piece SAE (3/8-1¼). Took them a damn month to ship it, I sent an email inquiring order status last week, but soon they will be mine","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712358046993727.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240405_190000_Outlook.jpg"},"posted":1712358046},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782327,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2782319
That’s dope, especially for a set up to 24mm. It’s probably close to like the Asian-made Milwaukee-Icon wrenches in price when you consider the sizes, and those Wrighte should be lifetime sets.","attachment":null,"posted":1712359084},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782338,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
5 feet of UHMW and PTFE. Not even sure what I'm gonna do with them yet, but just playing with them gives me so many ideas.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712360954342291.jpg","filename":"20240404.jpg"},"posted":1712360954},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
new to me/used ebay pawn shop mini skilsaw. made some 2x6 cross cuts and it seemed plenty powerful enough with the ho battery on it
i hate these new fangled thin kerf blades that flex if you try to "steer" the saw in the cut. it's going to get a 0 rake non ferrous blade put on it for cutting alum and plastic mostly as i'm not a wood butcher primarily","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712365763569675.jpg","filename":"20240405_175830.jpg"},"posted":1712365763},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782412,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780446
there's a lot of situations where lasers that project a line are more useful
I find that point lasers travel farther and distort less though, which is great for what I use it for (footings, elevations and layout)","attachment":null,"posted":1712370233},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2782612,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780446
You don't need a laser to side. Pop a line then use some spacers that work like "Geco Gauges" and just keep your lines parallel. The "+" lasers are really useful for higher detail interior like tile and cabinets. A 6' level gets most of these just fine. A laser allows me to check the level across the full depth of the cabs and shelves and over most of a room without going back and forth to the lev.","attachment":null,"posted":1712417886},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783360,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2781165
Yes yess they arrived. I also picked up a wilde tools punch & chisel set, little booty blasted the listing pic and description said it came with a tool roll pouch but instead it had this rubber organizer thingy, guess it's not a super big deal. Also my local walmart had these hyper tough 2.5lb short handle sledge on clearance for $5.97 and I thought it might be nice to have a short handled persuader in the future.
Now I don't have to feel dumb hitting everything with a 20oz framing hammer anymore","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712532101821750.jpg","filename":"image000000 (1).jpg"},"posted":1712532101},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783387,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783360
>the one hammer turned to the other side
u trolling little nig","attachment":null,"posted":1712533964},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783443,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2783360
My Hyper Tough brethren!
I’m not gonna lie, I normally don’t spend big money on hammers, but that Proto set is nice.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712540696742211.jpg","filename":"image.jpg"},"posted":1712540696},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783857,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
vertical indicator i didn't need, but was priced less than a new chinkshit one","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712607991059250.jpg","filename":"clock dial thingy.jpg"},"posted":1712607991},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782372
this thing pissed me off today. had to cut some polycarbonate and needed glue straight cuts. clamped a guide bar on and immediately realized the saw would clear the clamps on the ends. bullshit how the motor sticks a mile out past the shoe. fuck you milwaukee, i'm not buying a fucking track saw","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712632018673633.jpg","filename":"20240408_154604.jpg"},"posted":1712632018},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2783983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783982
shitty mongolian forum rotating my pics because i fonefag","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712632128384832.jpg","filename":"20240408_200736.jpg"},"posted":1712632128},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2784411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I been kicking the can on buying new socket & ratchet set, been working out of this cheap harbor freight briefcase style set for a few years now, broke the 3/8 ratchet the other day and I've fucking lost one of the 10mm (it has a 1/4" 10 and HAD a 3/8" 10) so I'm planning to see if HF will exchange and give me a whole new set but also I'm going to retire it to trunk/loaner duty and I ordered these as replacements. The view-in-cart price was $149 and I decided that was good enough for me","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712702856716717.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240409_163859_Brave.jpg"},"posted":1712702856},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2784637,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783982
>>2783983
What is is with retards and not knowing they can cut the other way around? There are 2 sides to your fence, buddy.
Anyway, recently I bought a pair of knipex circlip pliers to take my reel mower apart, they worked great and I didn't want to buy the cheap chink shit and have them shear off or something. And I bought a cheap einhell drill because I fried my last cheap drill by running it too long and too hot on work it was absolutely not designed for. It still "works", but only on one speed and only in forward.","attachment":null,"posted":1712735170},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2784785,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
I don't have a home workshop or disposable income to spend on tools yet, but in my imagination I got a Milwaukee M18 FUEL jig saw so I can create some irregularly shaped cabinet doors.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712762109570649.jpg","filename":"81R+FSgvYJL.jpg"},"posted":1712762109},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2784854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Newest acquired is a 10 pound sledge head that I found a in a shed. Never bought a sledge hammer, but I'm slowly working my way through all the sledge weights by finding them. My 8 pound is the only one I found with a handle, though. The previous owner got in a shoot out with the police and it was the only thing worth keeping when his landlord asked if I could clean out the place.","attachment":null,"posted":1712768215},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785542,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I spent $1500 on tekton website today","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712873547557772.png","filename":"Clipped_image_20240410_181506.png"},"posted":1712873547},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785542
Wew lad I hadn't checked out tekton in years, it looks like they've completely purged their shitty chinese-rebrand stuff and gone all in on taiwan & US manufacturing. Trying to be a legitimate tool brand instead of digital harbor freight I suppose. Go on then, tell us what you bought","attachment":null,"posted":1712919814},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785787,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hi bepis","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712928176123909.jpg","filename":"9D9D0E3B-2164-4E8D-94BA-65147F2FB22D.jpg"},"posted":1712928176},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785858,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2785787
They should’ve put a zipper for when all the socket holders break after minimal use.
Wait, nvm, Wera doesn’t care about that. 99% of Wera buyers won’t pull the sockets out much at all after the initial unboxing video is edited and posted to Reddit.
This Milwaukee kit has been tempting me for a couple years, perfect to throw in the glove box and the ratchet will probably hold up unlike Wera when I need to kick it to remove a rusty 17mm bolt in a pinch","attachment":null,"posted":1712938400},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785859,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2785787
>>2785858
>This Milwaukee kit","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712938516177246.jpg","filename":"IMG_0560.jpg"},"posted":1712938516},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm $1.77 poorer.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712939240367557.jpg","filename":"valve-stem-remover.jpg"},"posted":1712939240},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785896,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785762
>Full set of 1/2" impact sockets SAE/memetric regular + deep, $625
>The same as above but 3/8", $222
>Stubby combo wrench set to replace my shitty pittsburgh set, $100
>Long double flex head ratcheting wrenches, $370
>mini pry bar set, $24
The rest was a bunch of socket, wrench, and plier organizers to organize the shit I've already got","attachment":null,"posted":1712943810},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785900,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
This thing is a piece of shit but the ways aren't as bad as I thought they'd be. Either way, having the drill press vise mounted to one of these is dank. No more fucking with clamps in odd positions or just freeballing it and getting the workpiece ripped out of your hand because you KNOW you shouldn't be doing that with a drill that big but you're too lazy to fix it down properly.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712944650038362.jpg","filename":"tabble.jpg"},"posted":1712944650},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785902,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2785896
Been tempted to buy those double flex head box wrenches for awhile. They’re expensive even from the mid-range brands, but the cheap Chinesium sets on Amazon all have horrible reviews and you know you’re going to be putting some torque on them. Plus Tekton sells more full sets, not crappy little 4pc skipping half the sizes.
In the meantime, I still love that Gearwrench long handle flexi pass-thru wrench. Plus I snagged the regular flexi combination Gearwrenches back when Advance Auto had them for $35 for a 7pc set, metric or SAE. Then I added a couple Tekton for the 8mm and shit.
>>2785762
They seem to be trying, they do USA made stuff where it makes sense and there’s manufacturers available. I don’t think it’s possible for them to do affordable sockets and regular wrenches in the US that surpass the Taiwan stuff at this point unless they built their own new factory and operated in debt for 20yrs til they paid it off.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712944906402578.jpg","filename":"IMG_6281.jpg"},"posted":1712944906},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785908,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785902
According to their website they are already doing 1st party us manufacturing in michigan for some of their products","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712947191521357.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240412_133044_Brave.jpg"},"posted":1712947191},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785944,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2785908
Interesting. Didn’t know those were USA made. I know their screwdrivers and pry bars and stuff are USA made because there’s still a few OEs left in the country that can do mid range drivers for a reasonable price. And then the first wrench thing seemed to be the ultra-thin wrenches, but those were stamped.
But what the hell, are those angle wrenches CNC’d? It didn’t say “forged” anywhere in there.","attachment":null,"posted":1712953459},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2785947,"name":"Anonymouse","msg":">>2785908
>>2785944
Wow the advertising makes it look like they’re trying to compete with Snap On now. $175 for an 11pc set, not exactly cheap but I’m sure the same set from Snappy is like 3x the price.
Fwiw a Sunex set is about $60 on Amazon.","attachment":null,"posted":1712953854},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786005,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784411
Hey home depot ships fast, HF DID let me do a full exchange, and also this impact wobble extension set I bought from Amazon showed up. Nice day for new toys.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712966519908348.jpg","filename":"20240412_185934.jpg"},"posted":1712966519},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Finally, das can play with the big boys!
(On Reddit)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713010780251646.jpg","filename":"IMG_1829.jpg"},"posted":1713010780},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786177
Hell yeah!
Dubs!
And a sticker I can put on my Tesla!","attachment":null,"posted":1713012136},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786180
Edit:
Forgot the pic.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713012211695418.jpg","filename":"IMG_1830.jpg"},"posted":1713012211},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786177
They do make nice screwdrivers tho I thought about buying that set with the display to put on my bench but decided to make my own display to put my shitty HF screwdrivers in instead. Some day down the line I may replace those drivers with wera","attachment":null,"posted":1713027549},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786231,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786181
>>2786177
You must be USA. Wera is the shit I get at the cheap aisle at the department store when I happen to walk by.","attachment":null,"posted":1713027946},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786303,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786231
But I is europ!
Dunno, they’re always in the locked cabinet at the stores I’m at, with the other expensive stuff, never been to a department store that sells tools.","attachment":null,"posted":1713039718},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786314,"name":"Bepis","msg":">>2786228
I thought about getting a VDE set just to try em and see how they hold up vs the other brands because I’m autistic, but I couldn’t get past the green SQ1 driver in a VDE set. Stupid ass brand. I looked at their stubby sets too but same retarded color schemes.
I would seriously consider another Felo set if I had a good excuse to get more drivers.
>>2786181
How many upvotes have you gotten on Reddit so far? Or are you waiting til you’re done editing the unboxing video?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713042956612736.jpg","filename":"BE697A97-6CAE-447C-A62D-E19AA8BFC53F.jpg"},"posted":1713042956},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786322,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786005
>impact wobble extensions
This makes me wonder, is there any reason you can't use impact extensions with chromes? They seem to be about the same width, so why wouldn't I just buy a set of impact extensions and use them as my primary extensions?","attachment":null,"posted":1713044305},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786328,"name":"Bepis","msg":">>2786322
They’re supposed to be made of different metals. Chrome sockets and extensions are supposed to be quite hard, but that means they could possibly shatter under the force of the impacts.
Also there’s probably something to be said for the anvil on the impact getting worn out with the harder chrome sockets and extensions while impact sockets will get worn with the abuse instead of damaging the tool.","attachment":null,"posted":1713045632},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786332,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786322
>is there any reason you can't use impact extensions with chromes?
I can't think of any. Just don't actually use an impact driver. Use the impact extensions as you would a chrome extension.","attachment":null,"posted":1713046850},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786337,"name":"Bepis","msg":">>2786332
>>2786322
Oh and the other way around, I fucking sheared off the square under real mild torque with a ratchet on a HF 1/2” impact wobble extension. It was one of the things that made me realize HF’s return policy is bullshit when they wanted me to return the whole 4pc set, and I would rather spend the $12 or whatever on a new set than drive home and search for the other 3 extensions.
Anyway, it could be HF’s dogshit tools, but it could also be that those impact extensions really don’t like the torque of hand tools, they’re soft and the square peeled off right at the thin point of the wobble surprisingly easily.","attachment":null,"posted":1713047483},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"harbor freight got them 18" magnetic tool rail things, which are only magnetic on one side and you're supposed to screw them to the wall right? they got them for sale for $1.90 right now, regularly $4.99, I bought 10 of the fuckers and just zip tied them back to back to stick em to my tool boxes","attachment":null,"posted":1713051380},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786627,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i just broke in my new Husqvarna 460 Rancher yesterday. Only PPE I got to go with it was a pack of ear plugs, a pair of those cheap ass leather work gloves, and the same fucking sunglasses i've been wearing for the past year. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't slightly intimidated by it. as a side question, does anyone know if Craftsman bars/chains are interchangeable with husqvarna chainsaws? I've got a smaller, crappier electric craftsman saw, but the bar and chain is more than enough for light work like limbing","attachment":null,"posted":1713108781},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2786629,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786627","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713108872700528.jpg","filename":"Untitled.jpg"},"posted":1713108872},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2787883,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785896
Oh shit, not good
I severely overestimated my tool carts capacity/underestimated the foot print of all the sockets I ordered. I managed to get everything in but my box is pretty much full now. It's one of those harbor freight 5 drawer mechanic carts. I'm starting to wonder if I should upgrade to a proper cabinet style toolbox and try to sell the cart, fuck me bud the slope was slippery indeed","attachment":null,"posted":1713325240},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788614,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784785
idk if i don't know how to use the angle setting on mine, or if it just sucks. Thing works great for straight cuts but make sure you're ok with the angle function before you buy.","attachment":null,"posted":1713486918},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788911,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How big is the chance that pic related still works AND that the battery won’t be totally fucked? Looks like a (heavily (ab)used) brushless one, so it can’t be too old. I kinda wanna try an impact drill and getting one cheap at an auction would be neat. Currently it’s at 15€ with 4 days left and zero bids, so maybe I have a chance to snag it cheaply. But should I?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713547950354039.jpg","filename":"IMG_1855.jpg"},"posted":1713547950},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788911
Same thing with this thing here, though that already has two bids. Yay or nay?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713548157728078.jpg","filename":"IMG_1856.jpg"},"posted":1713548157},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788972,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2788914
>>2788911
The corded grinder is probably a better bet. If it was used a ton, maybe it needs new brushes which cost a couple bucks.
For 15€, I guess it’s worth a bet on the cordless drill. Even if the drill is dead, the 5.0 battery plus the charger are worth it. There’s an M12 battery in there too for some reason.
They don’t list descriptions like “parts only” on broken shit? 30-day guarantee or something?
Also you can find decent hammer drills without going M18 Fuel. I know that shit is real expensive for Yuros.","attachment":null,"posted":1713558359},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788973,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787883
Post pics of cart + drawers so we can mock your organization skills and suggest improvements
>>2788614
Watch a youtube review you dunce they always go over the functions and how to use them
>>2788911
>>2788914
I'm not a gambler so I would pass. They've clearly been heavily used on a near daily basis and even if they still work there's no telling how much life they've got left in them.","attachment":null,"posted":1713558461},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788914
Brushed angle grinder covered in brick dust, I’d pass. I bought two in a similar state before and once the dust gets in there with the brushes they die pretty quickly in my experience
>>2788911
This I would get if you don’t have Milwaukee stuff yet and want to. A working used charger alone is $30, if you can get any life from the drill or either of the batteries that’s all bonus. Also even a bad battery is useful if you don’t have enough to cover charging time.","attachment":null,"posted":1713559454},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2788985,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2788973
>>2787883
Protip is to get yourself a real tool box and keep the cart for the main shit you would use on automotive jobs.
Tool carts aren’t that much storage before they overflow, especially with the random household stuff. I got my cart and filled it up quick. Now I need to get down on a 44” box or some shit.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713559644780424.jpg","filename":"DAE03433-4B80-4D65-ADCE-E83435661A90.jpg"},"posted":1713559644},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785944
i have an SAE set of those Tekton made in USA angle head wrenches. I'm gonna say they're definitely not forged and that's why their price is very reasonable. They look and feel very perfectly machined. they're very nice and good enough for my use without having to pay snap-on prices","attachment":null,"posted":1713573222},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785858
I ordered one of these Wera textile sets that goes up to 3/4" and the socket holder for 3/4" socket arrived broken at the plastic retaining nub. The drilled hole on the Wera socket is so sharp, combined with the heavy weight of the 3/4" socket, it sheared off the plastic retaining nub during shipping. I have no idea why manufacturers drill a single hole on the side of sockets. It's absolutely stupid and unnecessary. The sockets already have interior indentations for socket retention. I returned that shit, of course.
Apart from this incident, I find the twist-lock mechanism to be superior to all others. Not just wera, but also Ernst make them too. I keep my 3/8" drive sets on Ernst twist-lock socket rails. All my 1/4" drive stuff is on Wera's twist-lock rails and textile cases. The cases especially are really fucking awesome. I buy empty Wera cases and just put my Koken and Stahlwille stuff in them. Pic related my socket go-kit for line maintenance.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713574520945288.jpg","filename":"IMG_0986.jpg"},"posted":1713574520},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789113,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788973
I don't have pic of the drawers but I snapped a pic after I got all the sockets laid in","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713580360772688.jpg","filename":"20240418_101440.jpg"},"posted":1713580360},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789441,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788972
>For 15€, I guess it’s worth a bet on the cordless drill. Even if the drill is dead, the 5.0 battery plus the charger are worth it. There’s an M12 battery in there too for some reason.
Well, seems like it isn't going as hard as some other stuff (there's a box of new looking SDS drills that's attracting bids like crazy, and some retards are bidding on an Einhell multitool (new(?) in box, but still…) that's now at the price you'd simply get it off amazon) but now it's already at 40€. Guess I'll risk it for 50€, good catch on the M12 battery, I need more of them and buying a 2Ah new is retarded when the 5Ah is just like 10€ more, but I really like the 2Ah batts for their lightness and I want a 2nd charger.
Guess I'll also bid on some random 10€ boxes of junk (though that knipex in there is easily worth more than 10€). If I'm lucky, I won't the the milwaukee but 10 x 10€ worth of crap. If that happens, I certainly shall post my "haul" here.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713642270849149.jpg","filename":"junk.jpg"},"posted":1713642270},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789450,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2789113
When I got mine, it was the short window they had the 1-drawer model. Was about the same price as the 4-drawer with coupon but I wanted the 2nd shelf for blow molded cases, and the deeper top compartment thinking I would be able to leave an impact in there or something. Big mistake.
You have to remember that’s pretty much like buying a 26” bottom cabinet but removing the deepest bottom drawer, it’s not really any larger. They’re supposed to be supplemental with those tools you use a lot. I don’t even keep all the drive sizes in the cart, 3/8” is only deep, and I’ll grab a shallow, 1/2” or 1/4” drive if I’m too lazy to go to the main box. I could probably leave all of the SAE stuff out of the main box too.
Also I like the cheap metal socket rails because they’re so easy to cut to length. Some of those plastic rails in your pic have a ton of wasted space. The only downside is they don’t stand up great, sometimes I’m tempted to stick some sheet metal screws in there.
>>2789441
Stuff like this, if you see a couple brand name tools, maybe the guy had good taste and some other stuff is pretty good quality as well.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713643459093475.jpg","filename":"image.jpg"},"posted":1713643459},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789450
>maybe the guy had good taste
It's a liquidation of a company, so it's not about taste, it's about write-off and making money off the tools, but of course there's also bound to be some crap and some stuff that's way beyond the write-off time.","attachment":null,"posted":1713643588},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789452,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2789113
Also good job on the mag strips, but that’s a shit ton of weight on the lid. The lid on that box probably won’t close very straight after some use, it is Harbor Freight after all so those boxes are some thin folder chinese sheet metal. I had more weight on the lid of mine before and it got annoying.
You also have to be mindful of what you put on the magnets because those tools are going to get magnetized. I have some flush cutters on a mag strip and it’s quite a pain if I’m cutting ferrous stuff sometimes.","attachment":null,"posted":1713643644},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My little old Ryobi pressure washer died over the winter so I needed a new one and this was $100 off at Lowe's. Gonna try it in a bit. I'm a bit mystified about how the soap tank works though, there's no manual shutoff - I think it somehow pulls from the tank when the soap nozzle is installed but not with the other ones but I'll have to test with car soap (don't want to put more aggressive stuff in until I'm sure, since I use it for cars as well as house stuff) when I wash my truck later.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713644097365471.jpg","filename":"64772672-scaled.jpg"},"posted":1713644097},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789457,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2789455
My Ryobi pressure washer has the same thing with the tank. It seems to be what you said, it only really pulls from the tank when the low pressure soap nozzle is on there. It seems like it sprays out some slightly soapy water for a bit though when you switch back to a regular nozzle. I use the foam blaster attachment more though, it wasn’t much from Amazon and is more consistent.","attachment":null,"posted":1713644887},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789469,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789457
I have a nice foam blaster and a shorty gun to use it with, and I'm gonna keep using them for car washing. What I'm hoping is that I can use the machine's tank for the stronger stuff that you use for patios etc., don't want to put that in my car blaster, but it it gets through even when using other nozzles or contaminates the blaster's spray it's no good either.","attachment":null,"posted":1713647009},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789514,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789455
I never trusted wall gas pressure washers. Adjusted the valves and changed the oil in my subaru washer this last weekend and put another five hours on it. Float still sticks but I can't be bothered enough to fix it since just shutting off the fuel and letting it run out of gas before putting it away fixes that issue.","attachment":null,"posted":1713651598},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789469
Foam cannon is great. I tried the soap dispenser in my gas one once and it was way too much soap for way to long. My truck looked like it got bukake'd multiple times before it ran out.","attachment":null,"posted":1713651661},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789563,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2789515
>way too much soap
I noticed that a bit too, it will drink half a gallon of concentrate real fast, so I was diluting it in the tank like 3:1.","attachment":null,"posted":1713657322},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789575,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789113
You wasted a lot of money and are currently wasting a lot of fucking box space on those SAE sockets unless you've got a good reason for buying an entire damned master set of them","attachment":null,"posted":1713659414},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789575
fuck off eurocuck
sae is still everywhere here in freedom land. if you go to the hardware store on a saturday to get a could generic bolts for something, they'll be 1/4, 5/16, or 3/8 and your metric nutrounders won't fit","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713661714136409.jpg","filename":"1710562050036447.jpg"},"posted":1713661714},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789590,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Empire True Blue 120mm Hi-Vis Mini Laser Etched Rafter Square so I can cut straight lines on lengths of timber.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713661948292278.jpg","filename":"e2991m-1__03936.1626711489.1280.1280__69871.jpg"},"posted":1713661948},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
I just ordered a black Milwaukee case for my green Milwaukee tools","attachment":null,"posted":1713662409},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789588
I'm american you dunce and yes that's why I bought a set of cheapo SAE chromes and impact nut setters from home depot to handle the COMMON stuff, what the FUCK is that guy putting a 1-7/16" deep impact socket on????","attachment":null,"posted":1713663354},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789605,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786005
I bought these sockets last year, they're breddy gud. my biggest gripe about them is the toolbox which holds the sockets don't fit into a packout very easily which is fucking insane that they wouldn't make it fit their own toolbox system
additionally I bought one of these today to pull up floorboards, for the job it's a huge piece of shit. the teeth are way too thick to actually get under any boards and you can't even hit it with a hammer without destroying it. which is fucking dumb because prybars and hammers go hand in hand. I don't know what more i expected from
>crescent","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713663416764815.jpg","filename":"hq720.jpg"},"posted":1713663416},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789514
Yeah in an ideal world I'd run a gas washer as well, but I live in a hillside house, which I'm currently prepping for sale, and need to be able to carry the thing up and down stairs, so the much lighter electric is really the only option.
>>2789515
I'm just hoping it'll work OK for doing my patio and walls so I don't have to buy another blaster (really don't want to use the same one I use for cars).","attachment":null,"posted":1713664127},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2789634,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779660
Dang!
>>2785863
I throw those away when I’m done, that way I know I’m never going to find it and I should just get a new one.","attachment":null,"posted":1713672738},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790005,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788985
Ok I decided to follow this advice. Found a guy on faceberg getting rid of this box for $275, had two of them bolted together but said he was moving and didn't have space for both of them at the new place, also had a funny story about faceberg jews lowballing him on it for the last month when he first listed it at $350, then $300, and $275 was his final price before he just abandoned the box in the house out of spite
>>2789575
>>2789603
Pic also rel","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713750887523540.jpg","filename":"20240421_203904.jpg"},"posted":1713750887},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790008,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790005
Hiroshimoot pls","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713751050604261.jpg","filename":"1713750887523540.jpg"},"posted":1713751050},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789113
Nice. I gotta finish setting up my tool cart. Worked on this socket holder a while back, then got sidetracked with a damn laundry list of farm shit that had to be done right fucking now...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713751607285520.jpg","filename":"IMG_2024-03-01_03-12-49.jpg"},"posted":1713751607},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790018,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790005
>>2790008
Your tractor is the wrong color...","attachment":null,"posted":1713752102},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790022,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790018","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713752473500536.png","filename":"no u.png"},"posted":1713752473},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790032,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790005
I mean the black version of that box is only $348 at home depot RIGHT NOW so it's not exactly unreasonable people would expect the used market to be cheaper... $275 is a decent pick up, but not out of this world for it either. Still a nice pick up anon. Having read through the thread and kind of figured out you've made multiple posts acquiring a lot of things, I have questions about how someone with such a large shop and tractors and shit has apparently zero fucking tools or tool boxes but I'm sure you have your own situation going on.","attachment":null,"posted":1713754050},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790039,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790032
He said he thought $350 was fair because "you wouldn't have to pay sales tax buying from me" lol
Regarding the other bit: 3rd generation farmer, bought 40 acre property less than a 10 minute drive down the road from family and built my own shop/house. Been working through some financial stuff the past few years so the shop was a glorified storage unit until I got some things cleared up and now I'm looking at furnishing the place out so I can stop taking all my projects back to grandpa's workshop","attachment":null,"posted":1713754961},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790066,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2790008
>>2790039
Have fun. It will fill up quick if you try to stock up on any sort of automotive tools plus some random homeowner shit. But for <$300 and brand new, that’s straight. The 28” combos like that are often going closer to $500 unless you get that super cheap Craftsman 1000 series where the bottom is like one large cabinet and the top is only a couple drawers.","attachment":null,"posted":1713758457},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790184,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790022
No, I'm white. Thanx.","attachment":null,"posted":1713796200},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790263,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Chop saw at work for making new window screen frames","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713809619789451.jpg","filename":"17138095757944471764722353458947.jpg"},"posted":1713809619},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790265,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790263
Also this thing because it looked neat","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713809764434432.jpg","filename":"17138096808789113905474478357550.jpg"},"posted":1713809764},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790268,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790265","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713810089879256.jpg","filename":"17138099204424762522328061851349.jpg"},"posted":1713810089},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790274,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789634
>I know I’m never going to find it and I should just get a new one
This basically applies to every small tool I have that didn't come with a storage case.
>>2790265
>>2790268
I feel like this is either the worst PoS in existence, or a mind-blowing, life altering amazing tool. There is no possibility between those two extremes.","attachment":null,"posted":1713811077},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790281,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790263
you ever think the reason you need so many heating elements is because you store them by hanging on a nail by the element itself?","attachment":null,"posted":1713812147},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790268
I really don't understand the point of a compact silicone gun. It's going to be bulky either way, because of the massive tube of silicone. I guess it's a storage thing?","attachment":null,"posted":1713815999},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790348,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2790306
You can trim off any part of the tube behind the trigger since it’s already empty.
Also there’s no biy ass plunger metal rod thing in the back. With a regular gun, when you first start a tube, that thing is like 24” long because of the metal rod.","attachment":null,"posted":1713820616},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790274
>I feel like this is either the worst PoS in existence, or a mind-blowing, life altering amazing tool. There is no possibility between those two extremes.
Is ok
Compact size is cool, wish it were metal though. Seems like it could break
Really light weight and the weight balance as you go through the tube is neat","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713829062543521.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240422_162848.jpg"},"posted":1713829062},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790400,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790281
Those have been there since I started","attachment":null,"posted":1713829232},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790666,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788911
Oh, wow. Now it’s at 80€. If it were only slightly dirty and that’s it, that would be a good price, but knowing how stuff gets handled at the construction site, that’s a bit risky 4 me. At that price, I can almost buy a new M12 impact driver (without batteries).
But that huge hammer drill still doesn’t have any bids at 110€. Maybe I’ll risk it with that beast.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713890495902767.jpg","filename":"IMG_1877.jpg"},"posted":1713890495},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790726,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790666
welcome to the retarded world of auctions. junk shit will go for 125% of new retail prices","attachment":null,"posted":1713896523},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2790755,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790726
Yup. Getting close to 100€ now. But at least my knipex and gedore containing boxes of junk are still cheap. Let's see what I get.","attachment":null,"posted":1713899434},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790755
>Let's see what I get.
Kek. Everyone bid (bade?) like crazy, so I just gave up on most things I wanted way before their end price. However I got two boxes of what I hope isn't total junk for 70€. I'd say I've got a 50/50 chance that it pays off. I shall post my haul next week when I get it.
Also, I could buy a 2Ah M12 battery new from a decent shop for 20€. That's very tempting, because I really like those tiny, light batteries, but I already overspent on tools this month.","attachment":null,"posted":1713980065},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791415,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":"Snap-on FLF80A
Kinda converting everything from soft soi-handle to the chrome handle in the box.
Tool box is nothing but Matco, snap-on, bahco , and caterpillar now
Very very little icon, I got the gold plated one to use as a beater","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714019154095435.jpg","filename":"2F143BE3-74C9-412C-A794-049192C41216.jpg"},"posted":1714019154},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791417,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2786322
Impact sockets tend to be phosphate coated, I’m a machinist so everything I have gets soaked in coolant.
So I prefer chrome everything to get the coolant off of it.
Nepros stuff is my go to, snap-on is my second tier
But other than that yeah I’d just go impact for everything and avoid buying chrome if you aren’t dealing with machine coolant constantly
My toolbox always has my mitutoyo calipers on top, then the little pocket I stick the nepros ratchet + Allen socket
I hate t- handles","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714019615881715.jpg","filename":"59A418EF-B37A-41E5-86D8-CCBBE4D3211E.jpg"},"posted":1714019615},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791418,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2786177
There is a craftsman box with a fuck ton of these stripped Torx, and broken inserts in every machine shop in America…
Wera and wiha are both Garbo","attachment":null,"posted":1714019983},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791419,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2783857
I’m the same way with indicators, “I might need that one day”
I got a brand new starrett 196 and a once used bestest big dial in my box I rarely if ever reach for","attachment":null,"posted":1714020143},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791421,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2778291
4 crappy ratchets = more shit you have to store and rarely used . Sure $80 is cheap but now you have to move these every time you open your overpacked drawer to get to your good ratchets
I know you can put Matco 88 mecha in them but these aren’t super great","attachment":null,"posted":1714020395},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791470,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I got one of those chinese hydraulic hand crimpers after borrowing the boss's 3 or 4 times. Turns out it can also crimp ferrules for wire rope and I found a need for those for the first time less than a week after purchasing it.
Also got a vintage ottonawa hollow punch set on order.","attachment":null,"posted":1714038492},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791471,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2791421
Except those Gearwrench 84T ratchets are actually really good for the money.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714039257989776.png","filename":"IMG_0469.png"},"posted":1714039257},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791489,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2791471
It’s actually just an apex ratchet so Kobalt, husky, Gearwrench, are all he same
Also sold as Quinn by harbor freight","attachment":null,"posted":1714044962},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791565,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791421
Brother I don't spend money on expensive ratchets. I don't make money with my tools, I save money with them, so when my $10 HF chinkslop ratchet gets the job done for years despite all the abuse I give it, I don't see much of a reason to blow 20x that amount on a "good" ratchet. The long handle flex head has been a real soldier too, $25 with a coupon and I've been trying to break it for years without any luck. The gearwrench set was a conveniently priced expansion to my ratchet drawer so I have a larger variety of handle lengths now, I wouldn't have bothered if they weren't heavily discounted","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714061555676386.jpg","filename":"20240418_101458.jpg"},"posted":1714061555},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2791874,"name":"Beppu","msg":">>2791565
Those Pitt flex head ratchets aren’t too bad. They may have gotten worse over the years because that’s what HF does, especially as they released the Quinn and Icon, but the only downside I ever saw on the Pitts was the plastic selector switch.
Also what should I impulse buy on Amazon? I’m thinking about those USA made square screw extractors, Mayhew has a set, but that’s only like $25.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714141868479269.jpg","filename":"2B8BBFFC-67B0-4003-B688-51FC5EC9817C.jpg"},"posted":1714141868},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791196
> I shall post my haul next week when I get it.
Not great, not terrible. I wanted some bolt cutters anyways and now I’ve got some rusty, huge ass ones and I needed a crowbar. The rest is kinda meh. Already threw away the tube of leaking Hilti can’t-even-read-anymore-what-it-is stuff with lots of warning labels.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714413933676000.jpg","filename":"IMG_1911.jpg"},"posted":1714413933},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793379,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793375
The tool chest was better. Some new gedore pliers I wanted, a bunch of solido (never heard of em but seems ok) wrenches and the drills seem ok, though mostly metal (I’d need some for wood). But hey, 3x 6.5, 7 and 8 mm new really long würth drills which I don’t need but could probably resell.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714414406086591.jpg","filename":"IMG_1913.jpg"},"posted":1714414406},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793382,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793379
And more sheet iron cutters than I’ll ever need. Stubai and Bessey so I guess they’re not too bad and the saw looks ok too.
So 7/10, would probably try again.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714414546748104.jpg","filename":"IMG_1912.jpg"},"posted":1714414546},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793387,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791874
>Also what should I impulse buy on Amazon?
5 packs of drill bits you use often because being one deep is inconvenient. Other consumables best bought in smol quantities. Mixed hardware packs are often dirt cheap for the same fasteners you get raped for individually.","attachment":null,"posted":1714414902},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793570,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"First drill. Went with Hercules. Not going to be doing anything too serious so the 5 year warranty where I just throw it on the counter and tell them to get me a new one drew me in.
Waiting until the next parking lot sale to get another tool and battery for a discount.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714437283609438.jpg","filename":"muhtoolhaul.jpg"},"posted":1714437283},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793835,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Probably gonna offer a dude $40 for a corded Sawzall on marketplace. Wish me luck.","attachment":null,"posted":1714499396},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793837,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793570
I'm ashamed to admit how much I like Hobo Freight. I try to buy nicer power tools but I have so many of their sockets and single-use oddballs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714499469},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793837
I generally try to avoid their Pittsburg line but I've always liked their Quinn/Doyle and ICON stuff.
It's what got me to consider the Hercules. It's pretty close to price to Dealt but the battery price and warranty won me over.","attachment":null,"posted":1714504139},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793916,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793387
I got picrel so far. Plus some Mobil 1 and an oil filter for the wife’s car. She wanted a new rolling pin because the old wooden one is trash and the other one I got her is “too pretty to use” so I bought her a french style and a fancy nu-stainless one.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714510783260271.jpg","filename":"FB2AAC19-7E0F-4136-90A1-A915063EE6D0.jpg"},"posted":1714510783},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793920,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793570
Gross. You could’ve gotten a brushless DeWalt for about the same money if you looked around for sales I bet.
>>2793864
Anything from HF that’s “better” than their dirt cheap stuff is about the same cost as buying the name brand.
>>2793387
I got a larger pipe cutter yesterday too, was doing a little plumbing job for a lady and we’ll just say that was included in the parts cost because I didn’t want to drive back home for a PVC cutter. I went over there to bring her a milkshake because she’s doing radiation therapy for some lymph node bullshit, and I got stuck under her leaky sink for a little bit.
As for the drill bits, I’m straight I think. I have like 3 of those DeWalt bit sets laying around that are pretty much new becsuse I snagged em when they were real cheap. Same with the consumables, I already got the $5 metric nut and bolt assortments and o-rings and all that bullshit in the past because that’s less money than the gas I would use to go buy 2 bolts when I need them. Harbor Freight is actually decent for some of those things, especially when they had the 20% off coupons constantly and they don’t apply to any of the tools you want or need so you use it on some $8.99 assortment","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714511235266286.jpg","filename":"79A3007C-3184-4A98-B7B8-064E02A1015C.jpg"},"posted":1714511235},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793931,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793920
>Gross. You could’ve gotten a brushless DeWalt for about the same money if you looked around for sales I bet.
Why would I want to do that, DeWalt isn't as good. Has a worse warranty and a godawful warranty process.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512067},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793931
>worrying about the warranty
do hf niggas really","attachment":null,"posted":1714512195},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793935,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793920
>Anything from HF that’s “better” than their dirt cheap stuff is about the same cost as buying the name brand.
agreed and Pittsburgh is good enough for most jobs. the only thing i've fucked up is some bits i chewed up with my impact.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512259},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793937,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793934
Is this your cope?","attachment":null,"posted":1714512279},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793938,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793931
>dewalt isn’t as good as Harbor Freight
>dewalt isn’t as good as the budget knockoff version that copied dewalt’s tools so closely that the budget batteries will slide into dewalt tools if you clip off a tiny part of a tab
Ok. Hopefully they don’t Lynx ya before the end of that warranty!","attachment":null,"posted":1714512319},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793939,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793938
Glad you're discovering your favorite brands are made in Chinese factories.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512449},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793940,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793935
Cheap bits and blades are always awful. I bought Hyper Tough sawzall blades once… then I went right to Diablo. They’re so horrible and will make a decent saw perform like garbage.
I think the one buy that’s ok is when the titanium costed Warrior 29pc sets go on sale for $9.99 assuming you’re going to abuse them anyway and never put them in anything harder than wood.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512491},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793943,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793939
Yup, which is why considering they cost about the same assuming you shop DeWalt sales when you can, I would rather buy the name brand who cares about the reputation of their brand on the jobsite. Not the company that Lynx’d people and is constantly stealing IP and sending it to the cheapest possible factory somewhere in China and constantly changing suppliers between batches because somebody will make it for 0.3¢ less.
I’ve bought too much stuff at Harbor Freight over the years to start trusting them to do the right thing. It’s amazing when you start to look at the same product produced over a few years and you see how they cut corners a little bit more every time. HF is known for quite shitty QC, which is why they were finally forced to offer a real warranty on that stuff, and their warranty process is often annoying as well and very much up to the discretion of the manager working that day.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512806},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793944,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793943
>>2793939
Oh yea, a lot of people got Earthquake’d too. Especially the fellas who got Earthquake 12V’d. Them and the Lynx owners better learn how to rebuild battery packs! Or go buy fuckin Ryobi like they should’ve done the first time","attachment":null,"posted":1714512922},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793945,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793944
I saw Earthquake in Harbor Freight yesterday, anon.
Still holding onto fake info?","attachment":null,"posted":1714512958},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793952,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793945
Yea don’t worry Harbor Freight can’t convince people to get rid of standard size compressor fittings. But if you bought any Earthquake cordless tools? Good luck.
>tfw people try to argue and justify their bad purchases
What’s HF’s return policy when you realize their price comparison graphics are totally bullshit in the real world? Didn’t they lose a big lawsuit over that some years ago?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714514794802052.jpg","filename":"057C4824-D8D0-459B-8B23-E9DF3ADA2625.jpg"},"posted":1714514794},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793956,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I probably should have asked here first but has anyone looked at the klein modbox shit? I want rolling drawers because my car is at the bottom at a small hill.","attachment":null,"posted":1714515509},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793940
Diablo Auto Dismantling blades are so good my local pullapart issue them to their staff for special jobs (otherwise they get the cheap blades). I buy mine by the box.
I've cut the nose off a Silverado including severing the frame tubes to harvest LS engine and trans with one blade and had plenty of cutting life left.","attachment":null,"posted":1714515906},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793966,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793956
Those look pretty nice. The problem is, they’re all fairly expensive and like every single brand has started to sell them but they get pulled from shelves within a year.
If you’re doing a one time buy, go Toughbuilt or Klein or Flex or whoever has the best prices on the setup you like. The Klein might be around for years, but it’s brand new and so many of the brands sort of flopped and disappeared from stores. Ryobi came and went, Flex was like a seasonal display, I think Skil has em on Amazon.
Milwaukee seems to be the one that is going to stick around. The Ridgid boxes have been around for awhile too, but more limited options. And DeWalt’s has been around for some years as well but not as popular, plus I think some Craftsman boxes might fit the DeWalt stacks.
If it were about the same price between Klein and Milwaukee Packout, or even if the Packout was like $50 more overall for the whole set, I would take Milwaukee.
There’s reviews comparing them online from a few dudebros.","attachment":null,"posted":1714516548},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2793979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793966
I looked at several videos and articles and it looks like toughbuilt and klein are the best build and have the best features. I already bought one triple drawer box klein box and I am waiting for the drawer version of the rolling bottom end.","attachment":null,"posted":1714519380},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794013,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793979
Well shit if you’re already into Klein, keep goin. They have some neat new tool kits, their pass thru ratchet sets are intriguing but it was all SAE sockets for the most part.
Speaking of Klein, pic rel is pretty cool. Was gonna get the little $30 cube until I saw this feature.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714523531909808.jpg","filename":"E8AC1A6D-BCD0-4E70-B953-2A81E2566C4F.jpg"},"posted":1714523531},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794041,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794013
Their laser distance measurer was on sale and I almost bought it. Reviews were saying it sucks and sunlight at the right angle can cause it to error code. First time I've heard anything bad about Klein stuff and I have quite a few things of theirs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714531075},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794297,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">find a M18 Milwaukee battery in parking lot
>"hmm I don't have any Milwaukee tools but I'll keep it for the future"
>months pass
>find cheap used charger on Marketplace
>put battery on charge
>charges flawlessly
Fuck yes bros. I'm stoked to have the flexibility to buy multiple brands of cordless tools without paying out the ass for batteries","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714580939246733.jpg","filename":"coon_news.jpg"},"posted":1714580939},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794297
>paying out the ass for batteries
You soon realize with cordless tools, the batteries are really what you're paying for.","attachment":null,"posted":1714586339},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794405,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2794041
I got the cheaper Bosch laser tape when it was on sale, no complaints but I haven’t measured to 1/8” over 30ft because most of it’s use is shit >10ft where +/-1” won’t kill me.
There’s so many random China brands for those things, but it sketches me out a little bit, especially if you find out it’s not accurate at all halfway into a project after you purchased materials based on faulty measurements.
>>2794334
And even then, if you shop smart and stock up on batteries when there are sales, the price isn’t bad for 5+ years of use.","attachment":null,"posted":1714598399},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794513,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794297
I just took bepis’ autistic advice and bought ridgid.
$99 bought me 2 2ah batteries, and 2 brushed tools (impact driver and a drill with a metal jacobs chuck something Milwaukee and dewalt didn’t have on their entry level line) and a charger
$179 bought me a 6ah and 4ah high output batteries and a brushless 7 1/4” saw with a carbide blade and a charger
$89 bought me 2x 2ah batteries a charger and an inverter to run a airbrush to do warhammer on the move.
Everything has a lifetime warranty and all of it was cheaper than the ryobi one+ line that’s marketed towards homeowners","attachment":null,"posted":1714614756},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794536,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How'd I do bros? I can't resist the online auctions. Almost bought another loader this morning. Bid it up to 9700 and it brought 9800. If it wasn't smack dab in the middle of Longmont I might have bid higher. Fuck that place. Also drug home my farmpro chinese tractor that I bought a couple weeks ago. It said low compression won't start. Fucker fired up though and ran, but it runs like ass and has a shitload of blowby. Will probably be looking at an engine rebuild. At least I got to drive it some and verify that the transmission stuff all works as well as the hydraulics.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714619727246570.png","filename":"auction.png"},"posted":1714619727},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794536
I bought the circ saw mainly for the toolbox. Same with the M12 drill. Probably overpaid for the gear puller, but I like to have lots of options for those.","attachment":null,"posted":1714619793},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794540,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794537
Scrap the ladder and make money on it","attachment":null,"posted":1714620453},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794543,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794540
I can never have too many nice aluminum extension ladders around...","attachment":null,"posted":1714620813},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794551,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794536
nice grab.
i wonder if the little tractor got run without an air filter? might just be able to hit the holes with a rigid hone, ring slap it, and run it another 1k hrs","attachment":null,"posted":1714623168},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794644,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2794513
Just make sure you register all the stuff within 90 days.
The brushed drill and impact driver are basically Ryobi, that’s a new entry level Ridgid, but whatever, I’m sure they work if you’re not expecting DeWalt Flexvolt levels of power. The 7-1/4” saw probably has some balls though. I snagged the 6-1/2” brushless and it has a magnesium show and everything, not bad at all for $99 and it will be nice to rip plywood and stuff with no cord dragging behind.","attachment":null,"posted":1714652164},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794772,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794513
I would have bought Rigid for my first cordless tool if it wasn't like $20 more for a comparable Milwaukee or Makita. People shit on Ryobi but at least it's cheap as hell compared to the big boy brands
>>2794334
I bought a Makita drill and a Makita impact driver that bot came with batteries, and now I have a working Milwaukee battery since I bought that second-hand charger. I'd like to think I won't have to buy another battery for a very long time.","attachment":null,"posted":1714675881},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794779,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2794772
I regretted getting the Ridgid 12V because of the M12 sales a couple weeks later. But Ridgid has some real good sales from time to time. That’s whay sucked me into them. Before Ryobi even had the brushless tools, with holiday sales, it was like half the price to go with the higher end Ridgid starter setup than the M18 Fuel with fairly close specs. And the “free tool” sales, Milwaukee is always offering an older brushed model for free while Ridgid will give you the current brushless flagship models.","attachment":null,"posted":1714678198},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794792,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793375
>>2793379
Update: damn, even though they’re quite beat up, the two sola carpenter levels I got are really nice. The bubble is way more precise than on the no-name one I have too and they’ve got some amazing glow-in-the-dark coloring in it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714680383},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794802,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793382
>>2794792
Those Bahco hacksaws are nice too, and that one looks brand new.","attachment":null,"posted":1714682740},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794870,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794772
I think people buy ryobi because they hear it’s cheap , but during Black Friday it was actually cheaper to buy Milwaukee and ridgid.
You could buy brushed Milwaukee non-high output batteries cheaper than ryobi on Black Friday but people kept buying ryobi
And ryobi does stupid shit like throw in free cordless lights or cordless fans that just drain the battery and do a lesser job than a purpose driven tool","attachment":null,"posted":1714693821},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794872,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2793382
FYI bahco saws are snap-on they’re just a cheaper brand of snap-on marketed towards European home owners","attachment":null,"posted":1714693899},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2794875,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794870
Honestly I'd take brushless Ryobi over Brushed Milwaukee/Makita/DeWalt","attachment":null,"posted":1714694192},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Not a new tool yet, but I’m looking for something new:
Are battery powered lawnmowers any good? Price wise, they’re all over the place, from less than 200 to close to 2000. Most stuff seems to be in the 400 to 600 bracket, with some mower + batteries deals, but what can I really expect from a 4 Ah battery?
With my 12V drill, that’s two weekends of hobbies use, but my oscillator multitool eats my 4 Ah battery in less than 15 minutes.
But If I gotta swap batteries once to do my 400 square meters lawn and get a cheap entry into an 18V system (makita seems tempting, they got everything under the sun…) to supplement my Milwaukee M12 stuff for jobs where I don’t mind the added wheight, that would be ok.
But if said 400 square meters means buying 10 extra batteries and/or I have to mow weekly, lest the grass gets to high, I’d rather not.","attachment":null,"posted":1714767360},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795212,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795192
I don’t think I would go with an 18V mower unless you had a very small yard. Any that run off a single 18V pack like the cheapest Ryobi isn’t going to be great for much more than like the small yard off your patio in a condo. My 18V weed wacker runs through 2 bars on a 4.0Ah battery trimming along the fence and trees on a smaller yard, and that’s probably only like 10min or actual runtime.
The 18V x 2 battery mowers might make more sense, especially if you have some 6.0-8,0+ packs that you use with other power tools. Also sometimes there are deals like Makita’s 18V x 2 mower kit comes with 2x 5.0 packs plus a promo for a free 2pk of 5.0 packs, and it’s cheaper than buying the 4 batteries alone, and that would be a great buy if you were using other Makita 18V tools.
If you only have a 12V drill and won’t be getting down on any of the 18V tools, I would look at something like Ryobi 40V or Ego 56V that is similar in power to a gas mower and can do the average suburban lawn on one charge from a medium sized battery. You can also get trimmers and blowers that use the batteries, and watch for sales with free battery promos.
Or go gas. I have gotten rid of all my smaller 2-stroke stuff because the 18V edger and trimmer and blower work fine, but I’m not quite ready to run an electric mower yet, the $200+ higher voltage batteries are a deal breaker when even cheaper 4-stroke gas mowers require minimal maintenance and run fine for a decade easily.","attachment":null,"posted":1714772537},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795213,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795192
I bought a 36V mower and it's pretty good. Batteries were like 80 bucks for a pair of 4Ahs, I'm happy enough to pay that again in 5-10 years when the batteries die from light use once every couple of weeks in summer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714772847},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795212
>40V
Don’t really see any use in that, besides a mower and for really big stuff, that’s still too small, but the 2x18 V is what I was thinking too. Probably gotta look into that a tad more. If that works for US suburban lawns, it should fit for my euro lawn just fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1714796455},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795337,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":"Bought a snap-on tool box restoration project for $40
It’s an old KRA series top box","attachment":null,"posted":1714797774},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795339,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795337
those were good boxes except for the welded dividers in the drawers","attachment":null,"posted":1714798117},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795821,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795337
I alsp bought the first and only snapon thing I can afford. Pic related","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714920066209405.jpg","filename":"1697080128576.jpg"},"posted":1714920066},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795823,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I picked up a m12 heated hoodie. came with a battery and charger for 100$ compared to 200$ to buy a new one. I've always had v18 and m18 milwaukee tools, but this was a cheap entry to the m12 platform. good, because I want the fucking m12 ratchet","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714920299977449.jpg","filename":"1693119567857.jpg"},"posted":1714920299},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795909,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I got a 90 adapter because I'd never seen this style before. It's fun to play with but I don't know how useful it'll ever be.
In action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIte5al8_AY","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714931127864520.jpg","filename":"482_483.jpg"},"posted":1714931127},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795924,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2794872
Snap On parent company owns Bahco, and the Bahco facilities in Sweden seem to be the ones making the saws for Snap On. It’s not like the Bahco is the cheaper consumer version always, they sell the same exact saws for some models with different paint jobs and the Snap On models cost way more because you’re buying them off the truck.
This Craftsman was made in Sweden by Bahco, it’s exactly the same as the Snap On which is also made in Sweden alongside the Bahco version but the Snappy is painted red and the Bahco is silver and orange I believe.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714933116184538.jpg","filename":"78255C4C-82EC-4CA2-8D62-F8D08D8045C1.jpg"},"posted":1714933116},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789455
>>2789457
Forgot to reply about this, tried it and it does indeed spray soap when the correct nozzle is installed. Not a great spray but better than nothing.","attachment":null,"posted":1714937632},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795950,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778280
Ordered a gearwrench bit socket set and chang just slapped a shipping label on the thin cardboard box around the blowmold and sent it. Hinges were damaged in shipping, case came open, absolute fucking mess.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714938061520179.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240505_144048.jpg"},"posted":1714938061},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795952,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795821
Lol , nah I got a ton of snap-on tools I had them since I was a mechanic, bought off coworkers or bought through SEP back in the day.
I just wanted to restore something","attachment":null,"posted":1714938345},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795952
I was just kidding around. I found a vintage snap-on toolbox for sale a couple weeks ago but they want 1200 for it. I'll pass!","attachment":null,"posted":1714939444},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795986,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795950
Shame, looks like a nice set though. The medium-long socket bits look really handy I just might and try to get some, would you recommend","attachment":null,"posted":1714942421},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2795991,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795924
>>2794872
I’m a European home owner have lots of bahco stuff but they are nothing like the snap on stuff I have. I have Bahco Proficut and Prizecut saws and they are way worse than the €6 Irwin saw I go. Bahco products are hit and miss in my experience, the tape measure and level are really good tools, their files chisels and saws are terrible. Their adjustable wrenches are a lot worse than Snap-ons which is weird because they invented the adjustable wrench","attachment":null,"posted":1714943217},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796034,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795986
Haven't had a chance to use them yet but they seem fine. Only issue with this gearwrench set is the hinges being plastic joints that seem prone to fail easier","attachment":null,"posted":1714949372},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Should I buy a Makita Brushless or a Milwaukee M18 Fuel jigsaw for woodworking? They're the same price and I have both batteries. Leaning toward the Makita, I've heard they're better tools for woodworking.","attachment":null,"posted":1714949892},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796054,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795991
That’s why I said Bahco isn’t always the cheaper consumer stuff. If you buy cheap Bahco tools made in Asia, those will be more like Blue Point, which is on par with most Taiwan tier mid grade tools. A lot of the Bahco stuff made in the USA or Yurop is going to be the same thing Snappy sells. Snap On isn’t going to put its name on the cheaper Asian Bahco.
In both cases, the Bahco is going to be more affordable than the Snap On or Blue Point off the truck.
Same thing with Williams, which is Snap On Inc’s industrial hand tool side. The Asian stuff is like Blue Point and cheaper, and the USA stuff is made right along side the Snap On stuff and it’s nice. The USA stuff aint cheap, but it’s not sodomy pricing like Snap On.","attachment":null,"posted":1714952319},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796056,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796038
When was the Makita version released? If it’s like a 7 year old Makita model and a Gen2 Milwaukee that was released last year, think about taking a more in depth look at the Fuel.
I’m sure they’re both straight. And a jigsaw isn’t going to be something Makita’s limped batteries won’t handle. Do both of them have barrel grip models too if you like that better?","attachment":null,"posted":1714952504},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796090,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My 1967 zipp saw","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714958517964807.jpg","filename":"IMG_3162.jpg"},"posted":1714958517},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796092,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796090
Does it use standard sawzall blades?","attachment":null,"posted":1714958845},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796094,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796092
Sawzall, jigsaw, etc…","attachment":null,"posted":1714958986},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"The thing works like new, of course I cleaned re greased it. The cord is like new. I have 8 yr old saws the cords are toast. Planned obsolescence what a load of …","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714959444237597.jpg","filename":"IMG_3167.jpg"},"posted":1714959444},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796102,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796099
That cord comes in at a retarded angle, but they built in some nice strain relief.
That cord confounds me though. Don’t get tangled up","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714959578706895.jpg","filename":"BCDDEB54-E7FA-42D1-AB00-5314B08FE291.jpg"},"posted":1714959578},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796104,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796102
I dont use it I have all new 20v brushess Dewalt.
I collect old stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1714959791},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796141,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793916
Spent the rest of muh gift card","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714966254904850.jpg","filename":"4DBB0178-42F1-411A-A5EA-DBC3BBB8D573.jpg"},"posted":1714966254},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796359,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789590
Kango 3mm Masonry Chisel with Hand Protector so I can use it to help break plate glass windows at protests.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715017932940856.png","filename":"KCBOP_accessory-shot_0001.png"},"posted":1715017932},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796394,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789590
What are these things, how do I use them and why are they so expensive? What's the benefit over pic related?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715022173025407.jpg","filename":"1280px-Trysquare.jpg"},"posted":1715022173},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796395,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796141
Yeeeaaa buddy","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715022303750593.jpg","filename":"192FD5FF-F4F9-4199-B322-00C5B9BFA831.jpg"},"posted":1715022303},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796397,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796395
I waited too long to get a pick set. Mine are a cheap set from autozone but still, they're so useful.","attachment":null,"posted":1715022931},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796402,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796397
Those are the O-ring picks
If you want decent mini picks that are better than the cheap orange HF ones but don’t have some retarded big handle, check out the Mayhew Catspaw. Mayhew is like the go-to brand for pry bars, punches, picks, and the Catspaw is their Taiwan line that’s still nice but only like $15 for the 4pk.
I was going to get the catspaw o-ring picks too but I’m not going to abuse those as much as the regular picks and it was long ass shipping time.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715024169687275.jpg","filename":"F61D9CBF-7A4A-461D-8E0F-201910B57D4F.jpg"},"posted":1715024169},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796404,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796394
The rafter squares aren’t that expensive. The plastic ones and the metal ones from cheap brands are cheap if you’re willing to take that risk on QC. They do a bunch of things besides finding a 90deg angle, it’s super easy and quick to make marks at common angles and all sorts of tricks to be done with them if you find a video on youtube.","attachment":null,"posted":1715024387},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796446,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796397
Also if you’re one of those anons who was like me a few years back, going from oil changes and the rare brake job to attempting to fix whatever a friend pulls into your driveway, there’s a a few tools I’m like “How did I survive without that?” just like the picks when I finally stopped mangling screwdrivers.
Charge your cousin $200 for doing his brakes which would be $1000 at the shop, and get down on a few of these tools to make life easier in the future.
Flex head 3/8” ratchet with a little bit longer handle is a good start. Learning to use a multimeter is a gamechanger too. And being able to pull apart the top of engines in 1/3 the time with an impact driver is quite nice.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715029745991252.jpg","filename":"F7E1003C-C0AE-4CA2-ADAE-E88B0D1706B6.jpg"},"posted":1715029745},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796446
where can I learn how to use my multimeter. the manual that came with mine is ass","attachment":null,"posted":1715054110},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796404
you aint ever needed to use a speed square in a professional capacity in your life you damn weekend warrior fagget","attachment":null,"posted":1715055018},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796626,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794536
Got these the other day and cleaned stuff up.last night. Overall extremely pleased with my purchases. The ladder is meh, but I'll find a dedicated use for it. Black and decker sawcat 8" builders saw is like brand new. Probably only used a handful of times... Snakentainer box cleaned up nice and will be good to put something in. The jack is stupid simple and reliable and will go well with my railroad jacks and cable spool jacks. The combo squares are PEC brand (new are over $100 each) and cleaned up nicely. Starett dial caliper is like new, milwaukee drill works, box is nice and sturdy. Going to try and convert it to the newer lithium m12 batteries and see how she holds up. Ridgid internal pipe wrench cleaned up nice (new ones on ebay are $100-125) monkey wrenches are like new, and the gear puller is good and stout and american made has a brand cast into it but cant remember off the top of my head what it was now... Only thing I threw out was that crappy 90 degree clamp and some of the screws and other oddities that were in the drill box.","attachment":null,"posted":1715068484},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796648,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796586
Poke around on automotive stuff. 12VDC is easy enough, you won’t shock the shit out of yourself, don’t go messing with the ECU or PCM and you will be all good (although that’s mostly people with power probes throwing 12V into spots that don’t want 12V, so not really a multimeter issue). Worst case scenario is you blow the fuse in the meter if you accidentally try to measure current the wrong way.
I mean mainly you’re going to be measuring voltage, and see what voltage drop is (measuring at the battery as the starter is cranked to check battery health), continuity on switches and fuses and relays. And if your meter has a 10A fused port for current, you can check parasitic draw and such.
>>2796588
Yup, but it’s made me some money on the weekends and my point is still totally valid.","attachment":null,"posted":1715082166},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796722,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796446
Cool story’s bro…larpfag
Those are Daddies tools and there isnt a spot of grease or dirt on them. You’re cringey son…Rigid is junk btw….go back downstairs until dinner","attachment":null,"posted":1715101611},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796722
Rigid is solid. My issue with them is they aren't particularly cheap. Ryobi and Hercules are way cheaper than the big three but Rigid isn't. iirc when I bought my Makita drill and impact driver the Rigid was only like $20 cheaper. I would much rather spend the extra $20 on a Makita or Milwaukee just for the versatility of the batteries.","attachment":null,"posted":1715102984},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796747,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796729
>has never used “ good “ tools
Son ive used every tool made since 1980
Rigid suck…now go away you bother me son","attachment":null,"posted":1715107645},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796753,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It’s a bit underwhelming desu. Works well but I didn’t realise you can’t replace the leads, and the leather sheath thing kinda sucks","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715108162296796.jpg","filename":"AFD1EECA-EF3C-4C58-8707-1A101956BA15.jpg"},"posted":1715108162},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796754,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796747
I don't own a single Rigid tool but have fun shadowboxing","attachment":null,"posted":1715108354},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796757,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796753
>MMP3 Player
Dope
>>2796722
Yeaaa buddy! LARP so hard that sometimes it spills into LA and I actually repair something.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715108983756686.jpg","filename":"48F3C0BE-79C0-418C-ACFA-DA1F11F9F667.jpg"},"posted":1715108983},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796758,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796754
>>2796747
I don’t own any Rigid tools either. Nor any Milwakey. I’d have to double check on the Klenn.","attachment":null,"posted":1715109065},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2796767,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796722
Check it, I added another bleeder wrench so I don’t have to LARP a stripped bleeder screw! Good ol’ Amazon sales sucking me in.
There’s a 3/8” x 1/4” too or some shit to complete the collection. Which, I think last time I was bleeding something, it was 1/4” on a Wilwood clutch slave cylinder. I cracked that bitch with a 6pt socket, but the bleeder wrenches are nice.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715111247035328.jpg","filename":"57C805F1-1307-4F92-82B2-C0FEFADD1E81.jpg"},"posted":1715111247},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786181","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715288181687100.jpg","filename":"1630131886686.jpg"},"posted":1715288181},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797637,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796767
I got $70 for bLowes. What to buy? Lots of Knipex on their website. If I don’t waste it on Klein or Knipex soon, I’ll spend it on boring old man shit like grass seed and PVC fittings
>>2797632","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715293540238076.jpg","filename":"5143B479-9BCB-4864-9A41-94F2FA3F8006.jpg"},"posted":1715293540},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797810,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794334
I just bought a brand new m12 2.5 HO for $30 on ebay. Not bad batteries last a long time at least for me as a homegamer","attachment":null,"posted":1715328815},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797856,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797810
Just wait til you try some 18V tools
>>2797637
Now I’m thinking about picrel. I have a full size router, but I want to get down on a palm guy. Wondering if I pull the trigger on this or wait on it and get the cordless Ridgid or Ryobi.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715344070827855.jpg","filename":"A2E5E514-BB3E-4812-8677-60379ADAF076.jpg"},"posted":1715344070},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797856
Shiiiit negro, who are you telling. Every 6 years or so I'll grab 1 or 2 new batteries its not that bad. The tools themselves are hard to kill at least the brushless ones.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715346287007870.jpg","filename":"Fleet.jpg"},"posted":1715346287},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2797998,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought some metal storage cabinets. Pics looked good, vendor had a "flash sale" and I picked up two 6' cabinets for $110 and $120. Would only let me purchase one of each color or I might've grabbed a few more. Was impressed by how well packaged it was, and clear english assembly instructions despite being cheap chinkslop. Theyre back up to ~$300 now though.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715367370562689.jpg","filename":"20240510_110229.jpg"},"posted":1715367370},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798003,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797998
Had some galvanized sheet metal wrapped around it to protect the sides and corners, with a sheet of MDF on both sides to protect the flat sides. Quite good.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715367851463593.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240510_140006.jpg"},"posted":1715367851},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798029,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797998
That reminds me, the local Ace Hardware was resetting all their small fastener stuff a week or two ago while I was there. They has the big organizers for sale, one was like 8’L by 4’H of those deeper grey bins for $100 or some shit and it was tempting.
Then they had the section with all the slide out boxes that open up, but it didn’t include all of the boxes so it was pretty much a bunch of thin slots like a mail room.","attachment":null,"posted":1715371279},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798078,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797856
HD has this on sale for $90 now","attachment":null,"posted":1715377649},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"almost went corded but decided cordless at the last minute because of something i want to sand in my yard. it definitely chews through batteries but not as bad as i was worried about. also sands better than my corded Hyper Shit i gave $20 for several years ago.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715377825157665.jpg","filename":"IMG_5480.jpg"},"posted":1715377825},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798148,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2798078
It’s the same at Lowe’s. I’m tempted but I think it would be nicer to have the 18V version because cords are lame","attachment":null,"posted":1715387249},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798597,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Well hazard freight sent out them dang ol' 20% off coupons so I went and got me a 3/8" split beam torque wrench. Wasn't willing to pay full price but I'm going to need one for a project I got planned this summer so its perfect timing on the coupons","attachment":null,"posted":1715481988},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798602,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2798597
Harbor freight got me this weekend too:
Icon pistol grip pliers
Icon pocket knife
Might pick up the icon pliers wrench and the icon twin grip knock offs
Stuff is so cheap with the coupons","attachment":null,"posted":1715483286},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798602
I might go back for one of them pipe wrenches. I currently have the long-nose pistol grips and the raptor knock-offs, i forget what icon calls them, but both were bought when they were the solution to a problem in real time, I usually don't pre-emptively buy things, but I'm sure eventually that fucking pipe wrench is going to be the solution I need and I'll be mad I didn't pick it up when I had a 20% coupon","attachment":null,"posted":1715484236},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798926,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2798602
I got the pistol grips because it’s an oddball tool that I would never pay full price for.
With the twingrips, pretty sure the knipex is only like $10 more than the Icons, maybe $15 more with the coupon. And I did a little playing around between the Twingrips, the knockoffs (which I’m sure are worse than Icon), and then good stuff like Fujiya and Engineer, and the Knipex would grab shit the other pliers wouldn’t. If you’re going to use that a lot like your main pocket slip joint pliers, get the Knipex because that’s a tool where the final finish and proper heat treatment is going to make life much easier.
As for the pliers wrench, why not go the cheap one. I can’t remember the price, but I’ve used my 8” Irwin version a lot and other than a bit better handle shape on the Knipex, they work bretty gud.
>>2798606
Still kinda glad I didn’t pay full price for the Knipex raptors. It’s a cool idea but doesn’t come out much at all.","attachment":null,"posted":1715550074},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2798958,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795991
The snap-on saws and the snap-on adjustable is literally just a red bahco tool marked up 5x off the truck not blue point, not willams branded
Snap-on branded bahco products at tool truck prices those two tools are both bahco
Bahco also has cheap shit mixed in, but they have really high tier ratchets too","attachment":null,"posted":1715555955},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799464,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Helping my parents clear out and prep their property for sale, kept wishing I had a beater fixed blade for yard work, cutting up old boxes, etc. so I ordered this Mora from Amazon and got it today. Seems pretty great for $32 so far.
Also grabbed a big DeWalt impact bit kit on sale at Lowe's yesterday, been using my impact a lot doing this stuff too and my little Milwaukee set had lost a lot of its stuff over the years.
I'm also thinking about picking up a recip saw since I don't have one and there's a bunch of stuff I could use it for but not sure if I can drop the $200 on a brushless one right now.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715664350702980.jpg","filename":"nz-for-ss-02_2_1.jpg"},"posted":1715664350},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799786,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795950
the knot in the wood looks like a monkey who messed up your set ;)))","attachment":null,"posted":1715733015},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799836,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"new pick set. 10$ and lifetime warranty. probably not as nice as my mechanics' snap on set, but it'll do for me","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715740512023308.jpg","filename":"1686187269772.jpg"},"posted":1715740512},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799856,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sick of vacuums from retail stores that barely last 2 years and got one of these on the advice of a friend, don't let the goofy face fool you it's a powerful vac.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715745927238558.jpg","filename":"4082310.jpg"},"posted":1715745927},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799856
I lived in various hotels across Canada for 2 years. these are what the housekeepers use everywhere. but as for me ? I use a rigid vac.","attachment":null,"posted":1715747477},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799874,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"There's an auger that's in my battery family on sale and I want it on the off chance I might want to make a bunch of post holes in my yard in the coming years","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715750379773949.jpg","filename":"1699829419518556.jpg"},"posted":1715750379},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799884,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789455
>>2789457
it called the venturi effect, it how carbs work.
i was thinking getting one those 99 dollar shit box one without wheel, i use it like every week for 2 hours, they last me a year or two, and i change the fucking oil, not sure if it's worth gettingone the bigger motor ones...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715753828070617.png","filename":"VenturiFlow.png"},"posted":1715753828},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799885,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799863
Makes sense as they're pretty barebones, I almost bought a commercial one that came with 13 metres of cord instead of 10 but glad I didn't, I can still do my entire house/car outside from one socket it's great.","attachment":null,"posted":1715753912},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799886,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789590
more of a swanson man myself, i like indetions over laser marks.
>>2790274
>>2790306
this how i feel about those 50+ taijima or cox caulk guns are they really worth it? I mean atleast with ryobi I aint cocking the plunger to move.","attachment":null,"posted":1715754115},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799887,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793382
>>2794802
i was looking for new hack saw my undestanding is that bahco is good, but they got a higher version, but then I saw klien released a new hackasaw and that seems better buy. I fucking hate klien.","attachment":null,"posted":1715754543},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799888,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793570
you got scammed on the bit set. like really scammed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715754638},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799887
sandvik bahco #225. time tested and proven no gimmick bullshit that gets the blades guitar string tight","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715755032452439.jpg","filename":"225.jpg"},"posted":1715755032},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799933,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2799836
When you get bored of em, go with the Catspaws
>>2799888
Trips confirms. I didn’t notice how expensive that was. I got those Hercules 3” power security bits with a coupon because I refused to pay full price, and they don’t seem shitty, on par with DeWalt and such. But that $25 set anon got with his drill, those kits are on sale for ~$10 all day on some random endcap at Home Depot or Lowe’s from any of the good brands. You can find the 100pc DeWalt sets with 4 boxes like picrel for about the same money","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715772232200745.jpg","filename":"D52B8760-DE76-4C33-B024-22C1F2D6AAA3.jpg"},"posted":1715772232},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2799988,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799933
where I'm from, catspaw refers to nail puller. I thought you were trolling me for a moment. good plan!","attachment":null,"posted":1715789593},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800000,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2799988
It’s Mayhew’s affordable line of stuff not made in the USA. Mayhew is pretty much the go-to for pry bars and punches and all that shit for mechanical stuff.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715792529935552.jpg","filename":"1C74CB2D-DA1A-4098-A79B-FA3D0E599752.jpg"},"posted":1715792529},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800068,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799933
I picked this kit up for $35 at Lowe's the other day. Maybe a bit more than some alternatives like the one you posted but I like the case setup a lot more, worth an extra $10 or whatever to have everything laid out neatly instead of having to dig through 4 different small cases in my toolbag to find the right one.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715801797304389.jpg","filename":"81e0d9ugeWL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg"},"posted":1715801797},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800102,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2800068
Those long driver bits are nice too
>>2797637
Spent it. Got me a Kobalt palm router for $59. The big router and table has been ok for me so far. The $90 was tempting too, but I’m not woodworking enough and the Kobalt was on clearance from $99 to $59, plus came with an edge guide and stuff.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715808343310653.jpg","filename":"B1B2B329-4674-4A4E-B4D6-04FEF5EDF55D.jpg"},"posted":1715808343},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800240,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2800102
I have an idea on how to get a LSA router with Lifetjme warranty bits but let me try it out first before I saw anything
Picked these up today
They’re both 3/8” drive
The smaller one uses snap-ons 1/4” body for max clearance
I’m going to use the 3/8” low pro with those Astro low profiles harbor sells as quinn","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715829649831730.jpg","filename":"495B2658-FAC5-4353-A50B-F6969BC29AA1.jpg"},"posted":1715829649},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Another week another auction... The old Milwaukee vacuum was what I really wanted. I was actually looking into getting one earlier in the year, but they were anywhere from 530-650 dollars and most places that sold them actually claimed they are discontinued. Couldn't pass this one up for $27! Swivel sockets because why not... $4 file cabinet? Hell I'll find a place to put it... Couple more empty metal boxes to put stuff in? Hell yes! My wife wanted the stools and table for the front porch. And I've never seen a Rigid monkey wrench in that style with the flat jaws. It's made for putting on hex nuts and fittings...
Also bought another set of 3 Knipex cobras, a set of 3 Channelocks, and a set of magnetic trays and paper towel holder for my service cart off of Scamazon. Had a $100 gift card for there from my birthday I wanted to use up before I lost the damn thing... And just ordered another cordless Milwaukee Fuel sawzall off e-bay. I keep wanting another one up at my shop because my main one stays at home (actually it's been staying in my pickup here recently... Handy for chopping downed trees off of fence lines)
Last week I got a Dewalt battery powered backpack sprayer. I'm a Milwaukee guy, but the reviews on their backpack sprayer were not great and I didn't need the switch tank capability, and wanted something as light as possible because I don't want to have to pack around any more weight than necessary when spraying weeds...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715876465999298.png","filename":"auction.png"},"posted":1715876465},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2800450,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought some bi-metal blades for my hacksaw and lag bolts this morning. The dog was happy to come along for the ride. I hope anons have a great day in your projects.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715878927424520.jpg","filename":"Bobby Monster.jpg"},"posted":1715878927},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801000,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800450
That sounds chill anon.
I shit myself by accident today. Trying to work through the shame with some joinery.","attachment":null,"posted":1715997307},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801320,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798079
For me, it was metabo, the best sander.
Went for a metabo SXE 3150. Corded and cheap, but supposedly very good. So far, I went through 30 square meters of floor thrice and it just works. Also it really sucks up dust by itself, so I can leave my vacuum on low.
Now I just need some good discs for it. My local home depot equivalent just has chink shit.
Really tempted by finnish autism mirka abranet, but apparently, you need an interface pad for those, and they don't explicitly state that it's compatible with anything, but the holes on the pad saver look comaptible enough. But on the big set with all kinds of nets, the holes look anything but metabo compatible. but most of the chink pads have the same holes that are compatible with about 50 brands, so it ought to kinda work, but I'd hate to spend a lot of money on expensive pads only to see that they're mirka exclusive.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716065031125196.png","filename":"Screenshot_20240518_223339.png"},"posted":1716065031},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801326,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"picked up a 3.0 m12 from the pawn shop. got excited when I saw a red ratchet in store, but, alas it was snap on. fuck!!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716065442555938.jpg","filename":"1688903078904.jpg"},"posted":1716065442},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801394,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Dewalt Atomic 20v compact recip saw, on sale for $129 at HD.
Doing some light demo at my parents' house, hacking up half-rotten fencing and old furniture (including a metal-framed sofa bed that won't fit through the door without being cut up) in prep for the house going on the market in a few weeks.
It was either this one or a brushed full-size one and I felt like brushless was a good idea since I only have 2AH batteries, plus it's just easier to handle and store. Seems to work pretty well, ripped through the 2x4 stringers like butter and still showed 3/3 bars on the battery after 20 cuts or so, I can tell the included blade is gonna need replacement pretty quick though.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716074414070000.jpg","filename":"IMG_2112.jpg"},"posted":1716074414},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"These were on sale today at woot, the 150 foot versions are like $70","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716127798536300.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240519_100556_Outlook.jpg"},"posted":1716127798},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"picked this set up today for 40 canadian. my ps4 controller wasn't working very nicely so I risked it and took it apart. thankfully didn't break anything (and I have 0 experience). this kit costs half as much as a new controller so yeehaw.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716138775378404.jpg","filename":"1713649808750.jpg"},"posted":1716138775},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801791,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2801642
Dope. Using good drivers on those tiny screws is a good idea. I’ve had shitty experiences with a lot of cheaper precision drivers. When you start getting to those small bits, it only takes a fraction of a millimeter off machining to ruin the screws on whatever you’re taking apart. Also the cheap driver handles, if you put any torque on them, the shaft bends and turns.","attachment":null,"posted":1716154891},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801797,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801642
>3.5mm bits
What the fuck were they thinking?","attachment":null,"posted":1716156155},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801875,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801797
what are you referring to ? the ps4 controller screws were #00
>>2801791
such a good point. these are incredible compared to the full size milwaukee screwdriver set I have. those ones strip more and more each use","attachment":null,"posted":1716166891},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801945,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801642
>>2801791
>>2801875
Klein makes the best screwdrivers. I've never broken one, even when punching out electric box cutouts/chiseling with them. Idk how they harden the tips, but they're invulnerable even to the most stubborn Rabbi.","attachment":null,"posted":1716175583},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2801983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801875
Their newer microbits are a non-standard 3.5mm hex shank instead of the 4mm standard that a lot of other precision screwdrivers use. There's pretty much no bit comparability outside of these newly released Klein drivers.","attachment":null,"posted":1716180623},{"board":"diy","thread":2778280,"pid":2802064,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801983
interesting but not a big deal to me
>>2801945
lmao, that's great. yeah this felt awesome to use. loved that spinning piece on the very back. nice and easy","attachment":null,"posted":1716205329}]}
{"title":"Home nuclear reactor: Sci fi or possibility","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784959,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Disclaimer: i’m not planning to do anything of this. I don’t suggest trying any of this stuff without proper guidance ,knowledge and preventive measures.
Main questions:
is it possible to make a safe, small scale reactor capable of providing energy for a medium class home? How much would be it’s price ?
How much knowledge would be needed to handle such a device? Would a housewife be able to handle it with newly developed technologies?
And if an accident happened:
How large would be the area of effect?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712783454134573.jpg","filename":"6B38BD40-61A9-41E3-82F2-F10D5B508BFB.jpg"},"posted":1712783454},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Definitely beyond the capabilities of a phoneposter.","attachment":null,"posted":1712783772},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
There's proposals for neighborhood sized pebble bed thorium salt reactors with no maintenance.
You can't really go as small as ypu want because you need a certain amount of containment and fuel and downsizing has diminishing returns at a point and you go small enough and the fuel can't even function because there's not enough to react","attachment":null,"posted":1712783833},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784962
I know haha
>>2784963
Thanks a lot. Very informative and interesting","attachment":null,"posted":1712784351},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784962
/thread","attachment":null,"posted":1712786195},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If you can afford a nuclear reactor you better use that money for something else...","attachment":null,"posted":1712786257},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
They already piloted pace makers with nuclear power in the 60s and 70s.
It’s not a hard or unsolved problem.
The issue is getting nuclear material in hands of citizens.
This is only legal in the U.S. if you are going to use the nuclear material as an armament and use it to kill other american citizens (originally it was only for killing the brits, should they invade or impose taxes).","attachment":null,"posted":1712786720},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2784997,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
nigga my smoke detectors have nuclear material in them","attachment":null,"posted":1712789331},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785006,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
any man not rolling his own nuclear power in 2024 is a cuck","attachment":null,"posted":1712790970},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784997
Nuclear decay and nuclear fission aren't the same.
Radioisotope thermal generators (plus something like a Stirling engine) are far more realistic and "safer" than nuclear reactors.
Still not reasonable or safe though.","attachment":null,"posted":1712791938},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785023,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"galen winsor","attachment":null,"posted":1712792486},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785094,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Dont do it man big oil will hillbillary your ass
I made a funnel out of a heet bottle and big funnel is trying to get me bushwhacked over it","attachment":null,"posted":1712799535},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
>is it possible to make a safe, small scale reactor capable of providing energy for a medium class home?
The RTG would be the size of a car.
The technology will be prohibitively expensive.
You'd need a masters degree in nuclear physics.
No. The housewife will be too busy in the kitchen.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712812829762414.jpg","filename":"David Hahn.jpg"},"posted":1712812829},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785205,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785016
Fission is a type of decay, just very rare in nature.
>>2784959
In theory, something like a radioisotope which generates heat from natural decay, you could use it to heat water. But to do so safely would probably be more expensive than something like a ground source heat pump.","attachment":null,"posted":1712815224},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785205
that's spontaneous fission, i'm talking about induced fission by neutrons and in a chain reaction","attachment":null,"posted":1712815514},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"All these comments, and no one mentioned LENR or the Thunderstorm Generator / Malcolm Bendall. Martin Fleischmann Memorial Foundation quantumheat.org","attachment":null,"posted":1712832656},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785284,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Short answer: nah
Long answer: Nope, it would be to expensive, even if you try to make ot the most compact design the reactor alone would be the size of one and a half cars give or take.
Second, you would need someone capacitated to run it, a nuclear reactor is not your good ol' diesel generator, between all the shit that need to be regulated, maintained and operated, there are maybe degree requirements in 17 diferent specialisations.
Next up, the components would be hell of expensive, the nuclear fuel alone (uranium, or thorium if you're based) are worth more than the house itself. There are cases of some guy's successfully making a nuclear reactor at their garage with minimal cost, like this guy (I don't remember the name, sorry) who brought a shit tone of smoke detectors to extract the radon to use as fuel.
Wich leads to the most important issue, security, modern nuclear power plants have self destruct mechanisms to prevent a reactor to going into meltdown and create a radioactive fallout.
But guess that, that's hella expensive and degree requesting too, I'm going to be honest, I can't just guess how far the contamination would extend in this scenario, but I guess is reasonable to assume that it would be really bad if it happens.
Unless a mayor advance in technology happens to make the technology more secure, compact and easy to operate (and I mean, sci-fi levels of technology advance) that will remain impossible.","attachment":null,"posted":1712837640},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785312,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've heard that nuclear reactors give off very distinct neutrino emissions which can be picked up by watchdog satellites.","attachment":null,"posted":1712842554},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785316,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785284
“Cahtgpt, regulate my reactor”","attachment":null,"posted":1712843793},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785319,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785284
See Japan ( Fukushima )","attachment":null,"posted":1712844329},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785390,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785312
> Neutrinos?
I doubt that. Neutrinos are picked up underground by huge water tanks usually.
It’s star-trek FUD to scare people into not messing with any of this stuff.","attachment":null,"posted":1712856667},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785395,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
Also, D.U. rounds are plentiful, and shall not be infringed.","attachment":null,"posted":1712857174},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785572,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Ok here's my idea. You get a metal vacuum chamber like this, with an insulating pillar going into the middle. Down the middle of the pillar is a wire. On the pillar is held a piece of beta emitting isotope, especially nuclear waste like Strontium 90. The half life of this isotope is 28.8 years and the molar mass is 89.9g/mol. So for 1g of the stuff you'd start off getting 5.11E12 decays per second. Each electron emitted has an energy of 546keV so you'd get 2.79E18 eV/s, which is equal to 13W. Constantly, for a single gram, for decades. A kilogram could power a few houses. That assumes 100% efficiency of energy capture. Ideally, the electrons would charge up the outer shell to 546kV, so each electron that follows converts all of its kinetic energy into potential energy as it moves against the electrostatic field, preventing the heat buildup that makes RTGs so inefficient.
Also don't inspect gauss's law too closely.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712880559886866.png","filename":"beta capture.png"},"posted":1712880559},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784997
>>2784979
Smoke detectors and pace makers?
I thought it was harder to contain it
At some point there will be night lights and wireless headsets powered by the same stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1712939781},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785198
>You'd need a masters degree in nuclear physics.
I mean you don't.
>>2785867
not likely, we never even got to production level for vehicle sized. just too much bias. you should really look up david hahn he built a reactor in his shed, it's about the most based /diy/ story of all time.","attachment":null,"posted":1712940682},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">is it possible to make a [...] small scale reactor
yes, and the most well known example has been posted in this thread
>...[safe]...
how safe?
could you make it so no one dies? almost certainly, if it is very small
could you make it so it would pass inspection? with the skills, equipment and budget available to you: no
>capable of providing energy for a medium class home?
RTGs have been mentioned, but for a normal fission reactor: no this probably isn't practical for a single home for any amount of money, the smallest economically viable reactor would be too large
>How much would be it’s price ?
interesting question
it depends on whether this is a one-off where you eat all the R&D and procurement costs, or whether it's a large commercial enterprise
Rolls Royce is working on SMRs, small reactors, suitable for powering remote towns/villages and large single factories
they're less economically efficient than normal PWR/AGR/Gen IVs, but they overcome a big problem in nuclear finance, which is the high buy in price
in other words, you can invest in them without putting all your eggs in one basket, and it opens up nuclear investment from just government to commercial
>How large would be the area of effect?
depends on scale of reactor, means of containment, and how the contaminants are spread around which is affected by wind direction, but more so by whether you are moving the reactor around, and whether you realise it has failed
see the goiania incident, it was only so harmly because the scrappers kept taking it places
for another example here, governments do not consider a dirty domb a legitimate physical threat, it's only a psychological threat due to the radiation fear it would cause in the population","attachment":null,"posted":1712958896},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2785976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785198
>You'd need a masters degree in nuclear physics.
in my opinion it's not the physics knowledge that will hold you back, reactor kinetics is hard but not prohibitive for one man to learn
the engineering capabilities and economics will be the bigger hurdles, plus the fact that as it stands you would have to make this undercover whilst you shine a big beaming light (radiation) to any government agency who cares to look
>>2785312
>I've heard that nuclear reactors give off very distinct neutrino emissions which can be picked up by watchdog satellites.
gamma yes, neutrinos no
i'm not sure if it's satellites, a plane or helicopter works just as well
>>2785572
what you will get from this is called 'low grade heat'
it's not useful for power generation, because of the carnot equation, maximum efficiency = (tHot - tCold) / tHot
so if tHot and tCold are close, the numerator is almost small, remembering that those are in kelvin
so say you had 50C waste (normal temperature for a waste barrel at the start of storage), and 25C water (it must be room tempoerature otherwise your wasting another round of efficiency on generating the power used to cool it), you would have 323K and 298K
so your efficiency is (323 - 298) / 323 = 7%, and that's your maximum
for scale, PWRs get around 40% efficiency at best, so 100% is a very high assumption even under the best of conditions
this is why AGRs and most of the Gen IVs aim for higher temperatures: higher carnot efficiency","attachment":null,"posted":1712959461},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786002,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785284
Hella cool post good sir!!!","attachment":null,"posted":1712965758},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786042,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784962
you should know most of us post from phones and desktops / laptops nowadays, we aren't so poor as to only have one or the other","attachment":null,"posted":1712973598},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786047,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Post fissionable material or GTFO","attachment":null,"posted":1712974132},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786075,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Look up the aqueous homogeneous reactor and codyslabs uranium refining video, you will use the latter to make the former which is just a propane tank full of uranyl nitrate heavywater brine submerged in a pool. Once you have your uranium you extracted from several semi trucks worth of hi quality pitchblende ore(codys was dog shit), the main issue you will encounter is that natural uranium cannot undergo fission because the fissile isotope concentration is too low. However you can bypass this with heavy water, the reactor is a breeder type so the concentration will improve with time and you can use normal water or graphite as the moderator if you wish. To make the solution, pour nitric acid on the uranium metal powder to make the uranyl nitrate salt. Then stir it into heavy water and pour it into your tank then submerge it in a swimming pool. The water is your neutron reflector and radiation shielding, electroplating beryllium on the inside of the tank will help it if you want. Be sure to monitor the pressure, the radiation will split the heavy water into hydrogen and oxygen via radiolysis, once it does that its probably time to use a graphite moderator","attachment":null,"posted":1712979620},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785976
>what you will get from this is called 'low grade heat'
Did you read my post where I said:
>each electron that follows converts all of its kinetic energy into potential energy as it moves against the electrostatic field
I'm not saying to generate power from heat, I'm saying to generate power by charging up a capacitor to 500kV.","attachment":null,"posted":1712987777},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786109
Your idea is a good idea. It's called betavoltaics. Yes, it works. It isn't very efficient.
>>2785976
This is not a thermal process, so Carnot can go pound sand. Shockley and Queisser are the ones ruining the party here.","attachment":null,"posted":1712993099},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786134,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Didn't the feds raid the home of a kid in Texas that did exactly this","attachment":null,"posted":1712996106},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786141,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786123
>betavoltaics
No that's shooting beta particles at photovoltaic cells. They produce a fixed amount of energy per particle, equal roughly to their bandgap. Each electron will give you maybe 1~5eV of energy, depending on the semiconductor of choice. All the rest of the electron's energy will be turned into heat, be that 3eV or 3MeV. My method has each electron giving 546keV of energy each.
My idea is the opposite of a linear accelerator, like the one in a CRT TV. Instead of a slow electron getting accelerated by an electric field, a fast electron gets decelerated by an electric field. It's mostly elastic. The work you get is equal to:
>F = q*E
>W = F•d = q*E•d
As electrons leave the centre conductor, it charges up to a positive potential. The more electrons leave, the greater this potential. At the limit, the voltage difference will be 546kV, at which point the electrons will be so slow as to be stationary when they hit the outer wall. At this voltage, the power output capacity is zero, but the thermal output is also zero. The more current you draw from this system, the further the voltage difference will be from 546kV, and the faster the electrons will be when they hit the outer shell. This speed turns into heat. Again not going to be 100% efficient, but the efficiency is only dictated by the geometry of the system, mostly of particles being absorbed by the beta source itself.","attachment":null,"posted":1712999964},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
That works differently","attachment":null,"posted":1713009784},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786271,"name":">>455392974","msg":">>2784959
nuclear is for the gays. take the coal plant pill","attachment":null,"posted":1713035101},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786344,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786109
>Did you read my post
not in detail to be honest, I stopped just before you said that because I was in a hurry, my bad","attachment":null,"posted":1713048596},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2786611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785867
Nuclear powered phone, anyone?","attachment":null,"posted":1713106367},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2787229,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786271
eat scheisse, hans","attachment":null,"posted":1713219745},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2787266,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
>hospital saves you from heart failure
>gives you lung cancer instead","attachment":null,"posted":1713226371},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2787574,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
>>2787266
They're betavoltaics and stopped by shielding nuilt into the pacemaker.
They also make fuck all current. Someone asked the last time beta voltaic were in the news and you'd need like 150k $ worth of them to run a cellphone and it'd be a giant brick.","attachment":null,"posted":1713282110},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2787778,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785284
>like this guy (I don't remember the name, sorry) who brought a shit tone of smoke detectors to extract the radon to use as fuel.
He's dead.","attachment":null,"posted":1713307532},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2787922,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787778
David Hahn? Oh yeah he died 2016, age 39, from drug and alcohol use.
>was paranoid about people who he claimed "had the ability to 'shock' his genitals with their minds"
It's like another Terry Davis story.","attachment":null,"posted":1713331525},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2788261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787574
Too bad
How about a tamagotchi? Still too much?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713408902311625.jpg","filename":"DD129BBD-1288-4ACE-B88C-3E2AA70ECE0F.jpg"},"posted":1713408902},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2788280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784979
RTG Nuclear batteries are the absolute worst type of battery for anything that needs a lot of power all the time. The problem with nuclear is that for it to work you basically pick your half life. If you want lots of power it's going to get hot as shit and blast out radiation and last not long. If you only need a trickle of power you can get away with long lasting batteries but it's like microamps and for the size you could have just gotten a silver watch battery and it will last 10 years anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1713412700},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2788284,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785312
Read "The Killing Star" that's how aliens find and destroy earth (though it's not from reactors)","attachment":null,"posted":1713412945},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2788297,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788280
I still think there's a compromise to be made. You can get past a century half life and still get half-decent power output instead of being a retard and using carbon 14 like the diamond battery fuckos.","attachment":null,"posted":1713414845},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2788879,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788280
How many small, long lasting reactions are needed to achieve the power generated by one that is short lived and has lots of power?","attachment":null,"posted":1713544096},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2789218,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2788879
Generally, double the half-life, halve the instantaneous decay rate, and hence halve the power output. Assuming decay energies are equal. Ideally you want really high-energy beta decays at a long-ish half-life, but there aren't any uranium 235 fission products with half-lives longer than 100 years but shorter than 200,000 years. Samarium 151 has a half life of 88 years, but it's a low energy emitter, and not nearly as common in nuclear waste as Strontium 90, the 24 year half-life isotope. Maybe you can use Technetium 99, but the power output would be pretty low.","attachment":null,"posted":1713609688},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2789677,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
you wouldnt be able to make it yourself but RTGs are pretty small
good luck getting plutonium or americium","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713684312871183.jpg","filename":"RTG_radiation_measurement.jpg"},"posted":1713684312},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2790228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pic is a man holding a mock fuel rod from the Hanford B, an early natural uranium reactor. The real thing was "uranium" (not sure if metallic or some oxide) encased in aluminum, which would then be placed in a graphite brick. If such an assembly can reach criticality on it's own, why can't a small reactor be made with just one or a few? Not enough heat? Additional engineering problems like SCRAM, sensors, shielding, etc.?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713803891363030.png","filename":"hanford reactor b fella.png"},"posted":1713803891},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2790242,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790228
Such an assembly is specifically designed to not reach criticality on its own.
Nuclear engineering is complicated. You gotta have a couple fuel rods and enough that you can keep a reaction going while you replace one and you gotta have a bunch more to slow neutrons down and then a bunch more to control the reaction quickly","attachment":null,"posted":1713806060},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2790349,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790242
That explains it. I'd assumed that the neutrons didn't permeate the graphite and reach other rods. Explains why it's called a "moderator" and not a "reflector", too.","attachment":null,"posted":1713820639},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2790377,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790349
https://youtu.be/QGwWixRSQHQ?si=z8zzsKKEEK9YL2IB
Here I watched 30 seconds of it but it seems decent","attachment":null,"posted":1713825520},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2790503,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790349
In the first-ever nuclear reactor (built in a school gymnasium in Chicago with a manual labor force of football players and high-school dropouts), the complex five-part safety mechanism consisted of the following:
>Cadmium sheets nailed to plywood
>A manila rope
>An axe
>A nuclear physicist to use the axe on the rope
>Gravity","attachment":null,"posted":1713850081},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792350,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
You could build a hydrogen fusor at home.
If you're building a nuclear power plant start with a steam generator that runs on coal or oil first.","attachment":null,"posted":1714240097},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792369,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784997
Not the right kind of material and you'll need to refine it into a useable form . You'll also need metric tons of smoke detectors. You might as well just buy raw uranium rock and gaseous centrifuges.","attachment":null,"posted":1714242240},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792370,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785284
Nuclear boy scout didn't make a reactor, he made a neutron source.","attachment":null,"posted":1714242325},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
I don't understand this, why bother with fission if you can have fusion power at home?
And you actually can, the sun is a huge fusion reactor. All you need are cheap solar panels to harvest this energy.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714295159765196.jpg","filename":"e032840515d685698459797cfeb83c87.jpg"},"posted":1714295159},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792956,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
the USSR did this a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1714344378},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2792978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Handl
A swedish man tried this too but he made the fatal mistake of reporting himself to the radiation safety agency, inquiring about whether or not his experiments where illegal.","attachment":null,"posted":1714347438},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793092,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Someone would try and stop you I'm sure but something like the SNAP reactor (pic related) which is cooled with NaK would be small enough... jut mind the risk of fires.","attachment":null,"posted":1714363295},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793101,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Unfortunately most don't really scale down well, the closest would be a kilopower reactor like what NASA has had designed for the Moon and Mars.
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilopower
I think the primary hazard remains shielding.","attachment":null,"posted":1714365369},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793527,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786134
Yep. Created it, and when he started it up it immediatly went out of control and created a superfund site.
https://youtu.be/G0QMeTjcJDA?feature=shared","attachment":null,"posted":1714431582},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793581,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Think of how retarded your average voter is, then think about how half of them are even stupider than that. Would you truly want those people in possession of heavily radioactive material?","attachment":null,"posted":1714439315},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">harnesses the power of the atom to boil water","attachment":null,"posted":1714439869},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793832,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793581
Yes!
An IQ test where low scoring individuals are culled sounds beneficial.","attachment":null,"posted":1714498774},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2793833,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793832
>cull all “low IQ” individuals
>don’t realize the IQ test itself is arbitrary pattern recognition bullshit
>lose your population that does menial labour and service jobs
>”lol just import more migrants ecks dee”
>country is flooded with retarded browns yet again.","attachment":null,"posted":1714499296},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2794764,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Yes, it's technically possible to make your own nuclear reactor. Assuming you have the capital to fund it, the engineering, physics, and electrical knowledge to construct and operate it without killing yourself and your neighbors, and the means to attain the fuel and dispose of the waste properly. However getting thrown into federal pound-me-in-the-ass prison for a long time isn't really worth doing something that might break even in cost in like 2 or 3 decades.","attachment":null,"posted":1714674542},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2794765,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789677
I've got some particle emissions for her to detect.","attachment":null,"posted":1714674605},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793581
Your “average voter” depends on the country
+ at some point there will be programs to automatize some or all process related to nuclear porwer
= household wifes in japan will be able to operate that stuff in the future
=","attachment":null,"posted":1715013203},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715013375325725.jpg","filename":"CF65EE96-D1EC-44A3-BD82-D19371A5243A.jpg"},"posted":1715013375},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785023
Came here to post this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ROAO1saHEvs","attachment":null,"posted":1715013902},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796412,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
legal, and nuclear material aside, constructing and safely operating a nuclear reactor requires extremely precise machining, expensive, exotic materials, and destructive quality checks. this is outside the ability of one person. maybe a government funded team.","attachment":null,"posted":1715026342},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796853,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792680
Solar either requires either that you only need to use power during sunny days, or that you can store energy for entire weeks of bad weather. If you're in the middle of a desert then you might only need to plan for one day of bad weather, but the rest of the world necessitates some sort of medium-term storage. You can somewhat reduce the maximum no-generation period by supplementing with wind or micro hydro, but those are also weather dependant, and you might not live somewhere with a convenient stream or enough exposure for wind generation. And small mechanical generators means more stuff to go wrong. Energy storage on this sort of scale just isn't cost effective for most cases.
Also cheap PV doesn't last that long. 20 years if you're lucky.
Lithium battery chemistries exist because they're lightweight and energy dense, which means they're much more expensive than necessary for home storage. Sodium ion cells aren't in mass adoption yet, maybe they'll have good cycle lifetimes but we've yet to see that in practice. Flow batteries require infrastructure that scales up well but probably isn't practical for homes. Thermal energy storage and molten salt/metal electrochemical storage also get more efficient at larger scales and probably don't make sense for individual homes. Lead acid doesn't last enough cycles. Compressed air is inefficient and complex.
Hydropower or making heat for a steam turbine doesn't have this problem. Not that using nuclear is particularly practical for a home either, it has a different set of problems.","attachment":null,"posted":1715126333},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796880,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Ultimately your problem is getting ahold of materials, or parts, rather. Nuclear material slugs, graphite moderator, boron alloy control rods, proper shielding, coolant (water) pumps. The particle physics and thermo aspects aren't so abstract that someone couldn't figure out how to build one. if you were rich and resourceful you MIGHT be able to come up with the graphite and boron steel, but good luck getting your chosen fuel. It would have to come from an enrichment facility, things don't fall off of those trucks.
The better question is could an amateur figure out how enrich a meaningful amount of material within reasonable time/cost? If you could make that a yes, then things could get pretty silly.","attachment":null,"posted":1715130295},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796895,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2785261
Because we're talking about reality","attachment":null,"posted":1715134675},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2796949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796880
>not building a heavy water reactor to use unenriched uranium
ngmi","attachment":null,"posted":1715145540},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797220,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
you'd never be able to afford the propper shielding, it would cost more than your house.","attachment":null,"posted":1715203812},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797224,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
>Disclaimer: i’m not planning to do anything of this.
Translation
>I am definitely planning on doing this, in Minecraft","attachment":null,"posted":1715204225},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797231,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
Small scale/Personal Reactors have the "Flying car" problem.
We had the technology to build Flying cars since the 50's. Otherwise known as "helicopter". Look at how the average person drives.... The real issue is that operating a multi ton machine in 3 dimensions over a suburb is beyond the ability of most people. Do you want Bubba crash his Modified Chopmaster 9000 Raptor cockreplacement into your kids bedroom?
Same goes for reactors. Even if technically possible, the real issue is giving "regular" people access to something as energy rich, not just for the risk of abuse or terrorism, but simply because the "average" human is incapable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715205545},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797273,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797231
Nowadays, people started experimenting with self driving cars. I don’t see why people won’t try for a self operating nuclear battery/reactor.","attachment":null,"posted":1715213710},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797276,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792680
That’s an entire different thread to be had
“ what would happen if the goverment issued an order to have at least 1 solar panel on every buildings’s roofs?”
At most, there would be a disscount, but it would dissappear at some point because electric companies would raise their prices to compensate","attachment":null,"posted":1715214310},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2797415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786075
>Once you have your uranium you extracted from several semi trucks worth of hi quality pitchblende ore
what about the method of turning thorium into usable urannium like that boyscout did?","attachment":null,"posted":1715256540},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2798114,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797273
I'm not sure if this is meant to be assurance that driving is getting safer and hence nuclear reactors should be safer too, or if you're saying that people are already experimenting with dangerous shit so restricting nuclear reactors doesn't really make sense","attachment":null,"posted":1715382215},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2798130,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797231
there's also the issue of cost
helicopters are much, much more expensive than a car. like 100x as expensive to purchase and operate. it makes more sense to just buy a car and spend a little more time on the road than to try flying everywhere
personal nuclear reactors would have the same problem. it makes more sense to just buy (what is already extremely cheap) electricity from the power company than laying out millions of dollars to purchase and operate a one-family reactor.
on top of this, there are already technologies that will let you generate and store electricity using fossil fuels and batteries which are much safer and cheaper than nuclear power","attachment":null,"posted":1715385656},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2798225,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"TRIGA reactor configured to make power sounds like what you’d want, but that (particularly the fuel rod assemblies) isn’t the sort of thing you could DIY","attachment":null,"posted":1715400595},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2799901,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784959
>is it possible to make a safe, small scale reactor capable of providing energy for a medium class home? How much would be it’s price ?
yes
A high school student made one decades ago.
Also there are designs being tested for small modular reactors which would serve single neighborhoods.","attachment":null,"posted":1715762053},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2799915,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799901
>A high school student made one decades ago.
See: >>2792370","attachment":null,"posted":1715766958},{"board":"diy","thread":2784959,"pid":2801159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798114
It is meant to say “with the help of new technologies, we have been trying to automate a lot of stuff. Some of the attempts have been succesfull, “","attachment":null,"posted":1716042268}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791552,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What can I do with these?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714058858060955.jpg","filename":"6eca2964-ce95-418d-ab8b-efc923e04637.jpg"},"posted":1714058858},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791554,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Put eggs in them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714058936},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791561,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"they are the best sound proofing material. Sell them on Ebay if you don't need them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714059913},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
+dirt
+wild flower seeds
use as bio degradeable nursery for seedlings to restore the local eecosystem.","attachment":null,"posted":1714061680},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791567,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Put them in the recycling or give them to egg farmers at the farmers market to reuse","attachment":null,"posted":1714062054},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"mix dryer lint and melted candle wax.
pour some in each slot.
great firestarter.","attachment":null,"posted":1714069194},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Just throw them in the trash dumb hoarder. Can’t believe you morons hold onto literally garbage and then try and find a use for it later.","attachment":null,"posted":1714070070},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791614,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791561
This, eggcept they're actually shitty soundproofing material. But there's that meme, so guys will probably buy them anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1714072373},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791602
>Can’t believe you morons hold onto literally garbage and then try and find a use for it later.
just like your mom did when you were born","attachment":null,"posted":1714072710},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791626,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You can give them to the farm. Ran out of egg trays today. Laying 2 dz a day.","attachment":null,"posted":1714073438},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791626
this, I give them to the farm I buy eggs from","attachment":null,"posted":1714077122},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791615
Sick burn faggot, now go back to your hoard","attachment":null,"posted":1714078008},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791662,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Material for crickets to nest in","attachment":null,"posted":1714082048},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"hand them out to middle aged women. also I’ve seen some people use these to start seed potatoes.","attachment":null,"posted":1714086012},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791698,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791614
this is true one time a guy gave me $80 for some old puffy floor mats on ebay and even drove to my house to pick them up. you never hear from them again because they realize they're stupid and move on","attachment":null,"posted":1714089885},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
You can glue them to your wall to improve sound acoustics.","attachment":null,"posted":1714092092},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2791886,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791680
stop spreading such misinformation and disinformation bigot or your privileges with be taken away","attachment":null,"posted":1714143576},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2792114,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791615
>having kids just to use them
Sorry to hear that your parents didn't love yo.","attachment":null,"posted":1714186209},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2792188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791602","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714207420386965.jpg","filename":"1713087233165351.jpg"},"posted":1714207420},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2792189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
they make good single use seed trays, and you can "plant" them and they will rot away.
if you want to go really diy, you can mix them with water untill you have made a mush, spread it out, dry it, and make your own card sheets. I have heard of people passing the mush through a sheet of fabric to make their own paper.","attachment":null,"posted":1714207528},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2792206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
We used to use them as drying platforms for small wood staining projects. (It sucked tho.)","attachment":null,"posted":1714211929},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2792236,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791566
I like you. We ground up egg cartons, made them into dryish paper mache balls and put local wild flower seeds in them. Gave everyone at my wedding 5-10 and told them to chuck them around their neighborhood. They also got other things as a party favor but yeah, was fun.","attachment":null,"posted":1714219002},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2793350,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Hand them out to women that look like they are single and over 30.","attachment":null,"posted":1714411114},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2793361,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Raise backyard chickens to fill them. They're mostly trash though.","attachment":null,"posted":1714412587},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2793363,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"kindling for fire","attachment":null,"posted":1714412648},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2793365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792188
Get your unfunny tranime faggot shit out of my face queer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714413278},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2794493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
i give them to my dog and she rips them into little shreds. its funny","attachment":null,"posted":1714609635},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2794979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i put a potato in each egg slot a month before they go in the ground so they start growing
both potato and paper goes in the ground","attachment":null,"posted":1714712991},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2794982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794979
That's how you get toxic shock syndrome","attachment":null,"posted":1714714950},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2794986,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Use them for soundproofing in your rape dungeon.","attachment":null,"posted":1714717492},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2795445,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
if you wet it, until it's a bit damp, add some non toxic glue (paper glue works just fine), put the cartons in a vague mold form and repeatedly hit it with a hammer, it will stick together. if you let it dry, you have first class, long burning fire briquettes
alternatively you can store eggs in it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714835027},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2795527,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"breed cockroaches","attachment":null,"posted":1714846965},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2795627,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
If you light the corner and ember appears they burn slowly (no flame) and they smoke a lot. The smoke repels mosquitoes. I learned this trick from a fisherman friend.","attachment":null,"posted":1714863065},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2795634,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
pour oil into them, freeze, then toss them out, instead of pic rel.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714864506599075.jpg","filename":"l-intro-1653660657 (1).jpg"},"posted":1714864506},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2795940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"do this https://youtube.com/watch?v=0ItPfhx3ulw","attachment":null,"posted":1714936796},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2796208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
give them to me.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714985235677851.jpg","filename":"20240323_121448.jpg"},"posted":1714985235},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2796212,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
seeding and propagating","attachment":null,"posted":1714988625},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2797594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791714
yeah, you can make a musix studio room","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715287297382605.jpg","filename":"201d8f0a3c4c43b0a98eba6eafd87f61~tplv-photomode-zoomcover_720_720.jpg"},"posted":1715287297},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791614
I often see this but so far I have not seen the explanation. Are these transparent for sound? Will stacking egg cartons improve sound proofing?","attachment":null,"posted":1715456171},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791698
>buy soundproofing
>never heard from again","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715457265814488.png","filename":"kuh.png"},"posted":1715457265},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798440,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798430
If the measurement being obtained is how loud a sound is outside the room it's happening in, then egg crates inside the room aren't going to change that measurement very much. What they're going to be better at is dampening the high echoey noises inside the room, when measures from inside the room. Also they look cool.","attachment":null,"posted":1715457542},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791602
You'd be surprised what can be reused effectively.
These can be cut into individual cups and packed with sawdust and wax for better firestarters than you can get at a store.
But you don't care about reusing things, you want to shekel out for every single thing and beg your kike masters for more things to buy.","attachment":null,"posted":1715457772},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798440
So, still no explanation? How can it dampen echoes but not noise? I would have expected multiple reflections where each reflection is a little lossy would do the trick. If that were right, stacking egg cartons would improve the performance.","attachment":null,"posted":1715469405},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798533,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">it even has an afro","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715471259715439.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715471259},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">2791649
>2792114
>2793365
He's mad, kek. Consoomers don't like getting called out.","attachment":null,"posted":1715490372},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798877,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
blend them up with elmers glue or rice then compress them in molds to use as building material","attachment":null,"posted":1715540497},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2798908,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">2798642
how do you fuck up like that","attachment":null,"posted":1715546389},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2799221,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Egg cartons are fucking expensive. $1 each.","attachment":null,"posted":1715619086},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2799254,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798442
>dude uk ackshually I’m smarter because I hoard garbage
>*worthless projection*
Shut the fuck up retard.","attachment":null,"posted":1715624709},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2799274,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791552
Burn them or throw them in the trash like a normal non hoarder would do","attachment":null,"posted":1715628391},{"board":"diy","thread":2791552,"pid":2799298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798526
When the wave (the sound wave) hits the curved surface it distorts the wave making it incoherent thus unable to be heard as "an echo".
However what the egg carton does not do is significantly reduce the "amp" or energy of the wave thus there is still *background noise* that is unintelligable.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715633195179320.jpg","filename":"water.jpg"},"posted":1715633195}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790297,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Every farmer needs a real hoe.
Sure, there's plenty of mass production brands out there at the stores.
Those work OK if you're dainty with them.
But does anyone know where one can get heirloom quality hoes?
Hoes that can take a real man working the dirt with them","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713815322968326.jpg","filename":"hoe.jpg"},"posted":1713815322},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790301,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Had one for like 10 years, it takes a beating no diff","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713815860529090.jpg","filename":"fiskars.jpg"},"posted":1713815860},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790307,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790301
No offense but fiskars ain't exactly the wrought iron forged classic hoe of yore I was hoping to find suggested here. I need something to plow true grit. The kind of soil most men would take one look at, walk 360 degrees away and never come back to if they were planning on homesteading somewhere. The kind of frozen alaskan tundra that not even a kodiak grizzly could muster a foxhole in. Preferably something hand made, from a real blacksmith forge. Thick wooden handle. No fiberglass sissification please.","attachment":null,"posted":1713816166},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790313,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790307
Well when you get done larping, go get a Fiskars","attachment":null,"posted":1713816651},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790313
Son, it's not my first time touching fiskars.
They're fine for grannies and onions drinkers.
You just don't get it, so no need to even respond here.","attachment":null,"posted":1713816951},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
Prohoe/rogue hoe. Made on missouri. roguehoe.com. Don't listen to the inventory warnings. Get it from an established distributor,s who can order the item you want.
Morgan County Seed is a distributor who ships and will accept cards over the phone. 573-378-2655.
Caution that USPS, which used to be cheap to ship hoes and other oblong objects, switched to dimensional weight about a year or two ago. It is a hokey system that adds weight to the calculation - if something is odd-shaped, like a hoe. Even if it only weighs ~ 5-10 lbs, e.g. their 6" wide turnip hoe has a 60" fiberglass handle (that I think you can get in ash wood), the 60J, it runs the shipping costs up.
For the 40HX42 and 100CR, one of which is 60" handle, shipping together was cheaper with UPS vs USPS, which wanted something like $68 vs $50.
The tools are well worth it though. Buy once, cry once. Their tools have a welded collar. They are meant for dealing with the ozark hard clay and rock, so anywhere else is even better.","attachment":null,"posted":1713818960},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790337,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
honestly just buy a big block of steel (preferably tool steel or even just a decent medium carbon alloy), a plate of 4140 steel, and make a coal forge. heat the plate and hammer against the bigger block of steel until it's a hoe, dunk the tip of it in water after last heat and let the rest cool in air. take a torch and heat the tip after it cools until it's straw colored, then get a wood handle (sold everywhere) and shove it in the appropriate hole. cheap and cool like my working class balls","attachment":null,"posted":1713819553},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790339,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790334
Cheers.. Just saw rogue. Looks pretty good, glad to see it recommended Appreciate the comprehensive sourcing as well.
>>2790337
If I'm going to forge anything, I'll be sure to make a proper forge. Just not ready to go that far into production facilities yet. Thanks for the suggestion anyways","attachment":null,"posted":1713819652},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790344,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Mower blade welded to a handle mount.","attachment":null,"posted":1713820016},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
My sister's a hoe and she don't look nothing like that.","attachment":null,"posted":1713821155},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
SHW Friedrichstal or Idealspaten
https://shw-fr.de/handgerate/shw-friedrichstal/
https://www.idealspaten.de/hacken-und-hauen/hackenmodelle
both make like dozens of hoes and spades named after german regions or cities which developed acounting local soil conditions.
i like that they still hand forge in germany without being overpriced hipster shit they still make big lots and use robots for grinding a hoe is like 40€ and will last a lifetime.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713824875586605.jpg","filename":"SHW.jpg"},"posted":1713824875},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790374
if i had to buy a spade (my ideal spade from grandpa still works) i woud get one of those, forged from one piece, self sharpening and a long eye to fasten the handle.
but the old one does not break.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713825471456860.jpg","filename":"ideal.jpg"},"posted":1713825471},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790384,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790376
That is just sexier than everything on the store shelves in 'murica","attachment":null,"posted":1713826629},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790388,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790334
I have this one and I believe its single best garden tool ever made","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713826833227898.jpg","filename":"IMG_5916-510x340.jpg"},"posted":1713826833},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790384
Is there no high end spade for sale in the US?
One that is built like my Rogue hoe?","attachment":null,"posted":1713829346},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790404,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790403
Closest I could find online is from predatortools
They make tools mostly for metal detection hobbyists, but some garden and digging tools as well","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713829512337584.jpg","filename":"58LT ultra eagle.jpg"},"posted":1713829512},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790403
Personally I think "the raven" model is badass
You can also buy footpads/kick plates to screw on to the top to make it comfier to really kick down on","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713829650228553.jpg","filename":"raven.jpg"},"posted":1713829650},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790408,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
Google "grubbing hoe" and thank me later.
>>2790376
Self sharpening? No. Real spadesmen carry a file for touch up during the work day. One pebble and that self sharpening ability is gone.","attachment":null,"posted":1713831440},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790428,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
wwmfg.com, all steel, handmade. I've run over them with machinery and they don't break.","attachment":null,"posted":1713835962},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Mcloud","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713851934466609.jpg","filename":"aj463-in-action[1].jpg"},"posted":1713851934},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790524,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790388
This looks good but I can't tell if that's just a sticker or laser etching. Please tell it's a laser engraved hoe head","attachment":null,"posted":1713858487},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790527,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Spending more money on a hoe will not help it fill the hole in your life.","attachment":null,"posted":1713859116},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790527
That's fine. I need a real hoe capable of making so many holes in my lawn that I don't even care anymore about "mole damage".","attachment":null,"posted":1713859198},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790532,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790506
For those of who can't read minds, here's the link for that tool that anon could not spell the manufacturer of.
https://www.edarley.com/forestry-mcleod-fire-tool-1/
>>2790428
Sick.
>>2790404
I'm getting a shovel boner.
>>2790524
Gay.
>>2790403
Look at those raven shovels. I did. About $100.
>>2790388
I was going to post my top dog and 6" hoe, but fucked up the video. Yes, they are all dank.","attachment":null,"posted":1713859476},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790533,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790532
Cheers, shovelbror
Numb Diggers rise up","attachment":null,"posted":1713859695},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790618,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"True temper or razorback for a good forged shovel. Stamped shovels are bullshit. I also bought some good hoes from the local 2nd hand farm scrapyard place. They almost look like someone took a disk blade and wedged it up into pie sections and then welded a pipe socket onto it to accept a handle. But I think they are factory made by someone.
T. Farmer that actually uses shovels not some home gamer larping faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1713883525},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790623,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790618
You ever seen these predator tools for shovels?
>>2790405
Different strokes anyways
Thanks Farmer","attachment":null,"posted":1713883840},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790623
>You ever seen these predator tools for shovels?
No, I have never seen a shovel like that in the wild. Long handled forged irrigating shovels are what is popular around these parts. I suppose in different areas of the world you would find different form factors of tools preferred due to different environmental factors.
Kind of how there are a vast difference in farming techniques for different areas too depending on weather, irrigation styles, and soil types.","attachment":null,"posted":1713884211},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790628
Yeah - I needed a solid "regular" shovel anyways (for transferring dirt/gravel/compost and shit)
Thanks again","attachment":null,"posted":1713884567},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790659,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790405
Is it a root cutter?","attachment":null,"posted":1713889270},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
What about a mattock, anon? You can buy a vintage mattock off ebay for cheap as hell. Can be a lot heavier than a hoe, though.
>>2790297
There is nothing on this planet that's self sharpening. It's always a gimmick.","attachment":null,"posted":1713890401},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790665,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790664
Meant to reply to >>2790376","attachment":null,"posted":1713890483},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2790779,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790376
Self sharpening in relation to anything that goes into the ground is a meme, sharpening with a file is a must - makes a huge difference and won't take all that long. If you really care about efficiency improvements, you could also buff off any rust and coat with wd40 to reduce friction as much as possible. Sharpening will make the biggest impact tho.","attachment":null,"posted":1713902470},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790664
who the fuck sharpens a hoe
one with good steel and thin blade will not need it, and whatever edge you put on is gone the second it hits a rock
as i understand, self sharpening means it abrades the edge rather than rolling over","attachment":null,"posted":1714148258},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791926,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791913
Tell us that you've never used a hoe for actual work without saying it exactly like that... When you're out chopping weeds in the summer because it's too hot to dig (trees, that is, nursery work) and you spend the last five minutes or so of lunch sharpening up from chopping all morning, that first swipe when you start back, and it just sails through some horse weed or goldenrod or something, it feels so damn good. You just feel like a real hoer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714150141},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791932,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791926
last year i planted 300 saplings and the hoe used wasn't sharpened the last 80 years","attachment":null,"posted":1714151955},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791932
Every man who knows how to hoe keeps his hoe properly sharpened, and avoids contact with rocks or even dirt whenever possible.","attachment":null,"posted":1714152242},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791934
>and avoids contact with rocks or even dirt whenever possible.
i too keep my yard tools as wall hanger showpiece","attachment":null,"posted":1714153902},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791942,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791932
300? Dude, that's one row out of at least 40. I'm not talking about planting, I'm talking about weeding once they've been established in the block. And there are at least 20 blocks.","attachment":null,"posted":1714154495},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2791949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
Make one if want that but that's like caring about heirloom quality bog rolls.
>>2791926
> last five minutes or so of lunch sharpening up
Takes a few seconds with my flap disc on a cordless grinder. I hit hoes, shovels, pick axes, cane knives, machetes, and anything else appropriate early and often.","attachment":null,"posted":1714155680},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2792215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791949
>flap disc
>sharp
retard alert","attachment":null,"posted":1714213672},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793463,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792215
a good spade is self sharpening anyways
if you have to much time and take a file on it you stop the self sharpening effect.
i have like 3 of them and they stay sharp.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714423410318435.jpg","filename":"s.jpg"},"posted":1714423410},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790301
Fiskars is shit tier weak ass and garbage.
You must be limp-wristed to have that tool survive a single season. .
Structron makes strong tools. Ifyou want wood handles you'll have to look elsewhere. Just avoid european gayness","attachment":null,"posted":1714424347},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790307
Structron. But handles are synthetic","attachment":null,"posted":1714424421},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793488,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"if you make your own tools what's the easiest way to make a handle mount? grind a line down a pipe and splay it out?","attachment":null,"posted":1714424779},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
Rework an antique spit or similar piece of steel of proven high quality.
Starting with a spit has the advantage of easily fitting in an induction heater coil of suitable power.","attachment":null,"posted":1714424968},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793463
3? Wow. You do ball and burlap? How many a day?","attachment":null,"posted":1714426568},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793921,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790404
Detectorists","attachment":null,"posted":1714511486},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793930,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793488
I just use steel instead since I use my hoes harder than a Chiraq pimp. I found grounding rods with a vertical pull handle like Ames ergo rakes work great for raking thicc piles like when burning waste wood.
For a wooden handle socket cutting and splitting a section of pipe as you describe would work and to get an uninterrupted handle you could zip disc a wedge out of the pipe then heat and torch bend it together as a tapered socket.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512035},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2793941,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790301
Based Fiskars.","attachment":null,"posted":1714512506},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2794722,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790403
Forestry shovels run 100 USD and up
They look totally worth it, fully welded, better steel, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1714666123},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2795565,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793463
>self sharpening
Ah yes, it's the new england 1 grit soil doing that self sharpening right?","attachment":null,"posted":1714853867},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2795573,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790403
America is a theme park. Most major brands are flashy gimmicks. It looks fun from the outside, until you’re in it and realize the only thing you’ve ever eaten is cotton candy and dry chicken tenders. At some point the rides stop being fun and you crave something of actual substance. The only big winners are the park owners, fleecing us all with $15.00 sodas.","attachment":null,"posted":1714855203},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2795603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793463
>a good spade is self sharpening anyways
Lolno. Shiny doesn't mean sharp.","attachment":null,"posted":1714858486},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796119,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
WTF? no every farmer does not need a hoe.
>if you're dainty
that is the point.
>a real man working the dirt
hoes don't work in the dirt.
The one and only purpose of a hoe, is to "dainty" drag/scratch and pull up weed sprouts, once a week. You wanna dig? then get a sharp spade, You wanna peel clay?, then get an adze. Hoes don't dig or work in dirt. So get a lite weight floppy plastic hoe. who cares.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714962806407056.jpg","filename":"drag up weedling.jpg"},"posted":1714962806},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796121,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Farmers dont use a hoe you dumb fuck","attachment":null,"posted":1714963651},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796155,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I used a few bunch when I would weed an acre of corn since we didn't herbicide and the stuff wasn't super densely packed.
Having a dull one sucks. I have thin skin and could never develop calluses, so I usually wore gloves. Wooden handles suck, but the ones we had were super cracked and old. We had one with a soft cushion covering, but those never last long. Then i've seen cheap plastic hsndles which felt like cheap compacted fiberglass, and those broke quickly.
Anyways, i suggest wrapping your handle and then it's easy to grip with gloves if you have mire strength than your skin can handle.","attachment":null,"posted":1714969140},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796119
>whats the point if youre a dairy farmer
you need a hoe to milk the cows","attachment":null,"posted":1714974547},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790307
>t. Neckbeard IT support from commiefornia wearing a fedora","attachment":null,"posted":1714978805},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790321
>t. The "Hoemaster" an elite bountyhunter and counter terrorist known for decapitating like a million bad guys with his signature weapon, a DIAMOND HOE that he crafted himself.","attachment":null,"posted":1714978939},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796339,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796155
you could try not leaving them out to rot","attachment":null,"posted":1715015374},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796366,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790301
garden center retard lmao take your teletubbies shit and gtfo my /diy/
>t. self employed landscape architect, builder and maintainer","attachment":null,"posted":1715019415},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796119
Hoes are not meant to do any of the autist rambling that you decided to vomit out. You are the only one trying to dig with a hoe, nigga why are you trying to work clay with a hoe. they are for weeding you mouthbreather.","attachment":null,"posted":1715019555},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796396,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796366
>architect
Architect is a protected title, this means you are part of the chamber of architect ins the landscape architects branch, my question is is this worth it?
Thats 8 years of uni right? Is there a lot of wirk for landscape architects so that it will pay off?
Also what do you think of my comment here>>2796192
Its pretty funny eh?","attachment":null,"posted":1715022928},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796401,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796396
>Also what do you think of my comment here
>Its pretty funny eh?
cringe","attachment":null,"posted":1715024117},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796406,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
I just got mine from my grandparents, whenever the handle breaks i just go get another handle for it. you can find old hoe heads at local junk yards and shit idk bro a hoe is a hoe, to be honest a lot of the ones from 1930s and back are way more fragile than what you can buy at walmart today, they were trying to use as little metal as possible to keep cost down and so the "neck" or whatever you wanna call it of the hoe is usually pretty thin and the metal is typically not amazing quality.","attachment":null,"posted":1715024825},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796401
Are you even that anon?
Anyways be a baby about it then but that comment is still hilarious","attachment":null,"posted":1715027002},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796396
>>2796422
If your post was funny other people would have told you. It seems that only you think so. You are still just a garden center amateur like he said.","attachment":null,"posted":1715028888},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
I had a sledge hammer handle with no hammer and a hoe with no handle","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715054660577153.jpg","filename":"1000001326.jpg"},"posted":1715054660},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796589,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
I inherited my favorite one. Great grandmother to grandmother to aunt to me. It holds the souls of 1,000 beheaded snakes. The handle is splitting though and I need to either wrap it or replace it. Very long, lightweight, just about perfect.
Thinking of buying a loop hoe for weeding though.","attachment":null,"posted":1715055026},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796438
No im not a gardener at all but i fucking lmao at faggots who think theyre tough for gardening, kek
I was curious about what constiutes a good hoe so came here and then read that keyboardwarrior tough guy cringe, with these weird deluded fantasies","attachment":null,"posted":1715061418},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2796610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796438
Also in case you havent noticed this whole website is like goar simulator mmo simulator","attachment":null,"posted":1715061483},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2797239,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795565
take a rusty spade and use it, you will notice the rust one one side is ground up by the dirt much faster than on the inside.
if the spade is hot roled conicaly like >>2793463 here it will stay sharp. if its just a piece cut from sheet steel with a welded handle it will dull","attachment":null,"posted":1715207388},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2797269,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790297
Had a japanese coworker. Her name was Yuho.","attachment":null,"posted":1715213288},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2797271,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790321
>Son
people like you are a threat to the herd","attachment":null,"posted":1715213374},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2797272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790334
Morgan County Seed and Feed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715213485},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2797280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Iron ruins the soil. Use copper
Read viktor shauberger if you want to learn more
Remember that the earth is electro magnetic or whatever... the iron ruins the charge. That charge helps shit grow strong like bull","attachment":null,"posted":1715215883},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2798703,"name":"YoMamaFat","msg":">>2797280
Copper used incorrectly will cause growth issues. That shillenburger cultivate elevate didn't have his own farm. Just promoted it without practical use of it.
A steel shovel does not kill your garden. You could argue for no-till or preserving mycelium, but a steel (not 'iron') shovel does not by itself, inhibit growth.","attachment":null,"posted":1715509359},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2799757,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790307
What you need is called a grub hoe here in USA.
I bought two from easydigging, a 4” and 6” wide. Not cheap about $50 each, but free shipping if you get both. Heavy wood handle and thick steel blade.
It’s a wonder they are not more popular in the US and Europe , in the rest of the world they are the primary digging tool.","attachment":null,"posted":1715728078},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2801227,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799757
Historically they're the primary and often only digging tool, with many poor subsistence farmers owning no other.","attachment":null,"posted":1716049601},{"board":"diy","thread":2790297,"pid":2801248,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797280
this is bullshit
literal fucking magnets-tier nonsense","attachment":null,"posted":1716052105}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2790961,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"these are the dumbest mfers, just gaping at you. fuck off, there is nothing to see.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713926294929898.png","filename":"stupid_dumb_fucking_idiot.png"},"posted":1713926294},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2790962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have no ground and I must scream.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713926527105113.jpg","filename":"2-prong-receptacle-768x768-965889112.jpg"},"posted":1713926527},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2790966,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961
It’s upside down","attachment":null,"posted":1713927412},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2790978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961
I bet you think cars have faces too.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713932069209891.jpg","filename":"untitled.jpg"},"posted":1713932069},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791101,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790966
no it's sideways.","attachment":null,"posted":1713963764},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791102,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790978","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713963825524821.jpg","filename":"astonished tape player.jpg"},"posted":1713963825},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790978
>>2790978","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713964322704428.jpg","filename":"radio.jpg"},"posted":1713964322},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790966
There is no Code specifying direction, but hospitals/medical want it ground-up.","attachment":null,"posted":1713964376},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791111,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791109
not in the hospitals I have seen.
the only places I have seen them upside down, was in a datacenter, and in my house on the switched outlets. In chicago they are mounted sideways.","attachment":null,"posted":1713964534},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791125,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790966
maybe if you're some paranoid faggot who's worried about coins blowing up all your plugs.","attachment":null,"posted":1713966415},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791135,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791125
The forbidden plinko game...","attachment":null,"posted":1713968596},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791253,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790978","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713989462839323.jpg","filename":"does-your-car-have-a-face-55260_1-688992262.jpg"},"posted":1713989462},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790978","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714000493664109.png","filename":"IMG_1584.png"},"posted":1714000493},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791337,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714001434037303.jpg","filename":"aldsfm.jpg"},"posted":1714001434},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791343,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961
Hey man, they're just doing their job and biding their time, waiting for a dumb kid with fork.","attachment":null,"posted":1714002621},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791359,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961
I get the child safe ones because it looks like their eyes and mouth are closed. Creepy mfers.","attachment":null,"posted":1714005906},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791361,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791359
Just eyes I mean","attachment":null,"posted":1714006017},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791364,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is there anything more useless than a 20 amp outlet
i have never seen a single device that actually needed this","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714006449152568.jpg","filename":"HOM-PSHREC20WRW_1.jpg"},"posted":1714006449},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791369,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"why does the elctricity go into what you plug into it, isn't it happy enough in the plug? when i put in a huge resistor oven it tries to go through. is it stupid? am i stupid?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714007167948147.png","filename":"1659444715390576.png"},"posted":1714007167},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791422,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2790961
Keeps making that dumbass face at me, I’ll make it choke on my dick","attachment":null,"posted":1714020529},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
Heaters, big vacuum cleaners, compressors, and a concrete grinder to name a few.
You dont need it till you do and then youre stuck.","attachment":null,"posted":1714027870},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
I had an over-the-range microwave that used a 20 amp plug.","attachment":null,"posted":1714030269},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791453,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
You're moms vibrator needs one","attachment":null,"posted":1714033368},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791460,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"They won’t","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714035913523174.jpg","filename":"IMG_9917.jpg"},"posted":1714035913},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791461,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Stop","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714035995034045.jpg","filename":"IMG_9918.jpg"},"posted":1714035995},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791462,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Laughing","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714036055454958.jpg","filename":"IMG_9916.jpg"},"posted":1714036055},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791463,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Alwyas
Luahhing","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714036117122556.jpg","filename":"IMG_9919.jpg"},"posted":1714036117},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791464,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791337
Kek
>1337","attachment":null,"posted":1714036278},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791465,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791449
Portable AC unit. Mine kept blowing the 15 amp fuse until my electrician put a 20 amp fuse in.","attachment":null,"posted":1714036536},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791496,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
They're useful for when somebody burns out their 15 amp outlets by running a high wattage space heater 24/7.","attachment":null,"posted":1714047572},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791496
Yes, their internals are built better than a bottom-line 15amp outlet.
>>2791364
you
>>2791111
Ok, well I can't speak for mexico or squatamala, but it's common practice by electricians on the States. Like I said it's not actually Code, it may be an insurance requirement. Does insurance vary? Yes. Do things get grandfathered in? Maybe.
>>2791465
> 'electrician'
Was the wiring upgraded to 12/2 (US, 120v AC)? If it was properly wired to begin-with, the 15 amp breaker was to protect all wiring downstream, which would have then been 14/2. If a 20 amp is now installed, then why wasn't one used originally?
99% chance that it means the wiring was not rated for it. The price is the same between a 15 amp and a 20 amp, so if it was originally wired correctly, a 20 amp breaker would have been used. Congrats - you have likely increased the chances of an electrically caused house fire.
I could be off by a little - like not considering outlet limitations. Correct me if I am, if you are at a Journeyman or higher, or equivalent.","attachment":null,"posted":1714049502},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791505
technology connections tore open a 20 amp outlet and the internals were identical to a 15 amp outlet made by the same manufacturer","attachment":null,"posted":1714049662},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
In addition to the others said, power supplies and PDUs in server/network racks sometimes use them. What bugs me more is that whoever built my house had the good sense to use all 20A circuits with proper 12AWG wiring but used the 15A outlets. I mean, it'll never be a problem but it still bugs me. I understand since you can get a whole box of the 15A receptacles for the cost of one 20A receptacle.","attachment":null,"posted":1714053582},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791547,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791505
> 99% chance that it means the wiring was not rated for it.
He told me that 14ga wire was fine for a 20A fuse. When I questioned him, he literally said “look, I’m the one that passed the electricians test ok?”
It was too bad too, I really liked the guy up until that point. Oh well, home he’s not out there burning down too many homes.","attachment":null,"posted":1714057407},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791551,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791526
>I understand since you can get a whole box of the 15A receptacles for the cost of one 20A receptacle
Yeah, it's cheaper and code allows it since it's rare you'll ever plug in something that draws >15 amps at a single outlet.
Be happy you got 12 gauge wiring to all your outlets at least, my company uses 14 gauge anywhere they can get away with it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714058533},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791577,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714063954785940.jpg","filename":"1571621053488.jpg"},"posted":1714063954},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791592,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791506
All the ones I have worked with are substantially heavier than a 15 amp. Maybe he bought some cheap retail shit, or didn't consider the density/strength/weight, just the looks.
They will 'look' very similar internally. i wasn't talking about that, but if you are mostly concerned with looks, I'm sure the chinese have some second-rate non-UL outlets that look the same, that they'll sell you. Your call.
>>2791547
In the circumstance, that the 20 amp breaker is on a single-outlet convenience circuit, next to the main breaker panel, hung on a wall and run through metal conduit, how I would do it, it should be 'ok'. If there was an overload condition, the wire is so short, that wire heating will be secondary to the breaker tripping. Although it won't be current Code.
> electrician test
They tend to be proud. It's experiences, though, not a test, that sets an electrician apart. That answer was something (((YOU))) can google. Who paid the electrician for his work?","attachment":null,"posted":1714066821},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791755,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791465
Why didn't you put it in?","attachment":null,"posted":1714097623},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791819,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
somethings in your eye bro","attachment":null,"posted":1714117760},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2791823,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791592
> is on a single-outlet convenience circuit,
Haha, no just one of the two “garage” fuses. I did google it, learned about how even though 14ga is rated at 20 amp or whatever you have to fuse at 80%. Forced him to come back and swap the 20A fuses for 15. I paid him, because his job was to replace the old 15A fuses, which he did. He just thought he was doing me a solid by dropping in the 20A ones.","attachment":null,"posted":1714120224},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2794866,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790966
>>2791109
Its not called the damn sky","attachment":null,"posted":1714693568},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2794916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791111
also in australia","attachment":null,"posted":1714699691},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2795168,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791577
open wide and receive","attachment":null,"posted":1714763601},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2795265,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
you use it for things plugged into a 20a circuit obviously. how dumb is this post.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714785727970769.jpg","filename":"whyareyougay.jpg"},"posted":1714785727},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2796239,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791369
On one side of the plug there's a bunch of pixies all cramped up in a tight space and they wanna spread out.
On the other side there's a whole bunch of space for them, but no way to get there.
If you build a good enough bridge for the pixies, they'll do whatever it takes to get across it.
If too many pixies cross the bridge too quickly it'll heat up and catch fire.
We increase resistance to tell the pixies to slow the fuck down and take their time or someone might get hurt.","attachment":null,"posted":1715000400},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2796291,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790961
Nigga that pic is upside down
Ground always goes up for safety","attachment":null,"posted":1715009030},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2796292,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
Window air conditioners that were planned for are in every shitty apartment on earth with a 20amp plug","attachment":null,"posted":1715009091},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2796296,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
Only things I've seen that use actual 20A plugs are large (>13k BTU) room air conditioners and commercial microwaves.","attachment":null,"posted":1715009678},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2797286,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
Yes. Continuous use power draw devices (longer than 3 hours) derate the capacity to 80%. A 15 amp circuit is only designed to run 1440W for over 3 hours even though 15A is 1800w.
20a is 2400w, or rated for continuous use of 1920w.
Its a question of if you want to use that 15a device for more than 3 hours, not if your device actually needs 20a
>>2791369
Electricity does not move through the wires, all the electrons vibrate in place.","attachment":null,"posted":1715217368},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2797321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797286
vibrating is moving","attachment":null,"posted":1715225692},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2797326,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791364
everyone seems to reply to this post.
i just have to too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715226220},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2797595,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797286
almost all 15a receptacles are rated for 20a passthrough, so everything you just said is boloney","attachment":null,"posted":1715288131},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2797658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796291
Wrong. No NEC regulation says the have to be ground up.","attachment":null,"posted":1715296986},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799558,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796291
The only time I've ever seen someone drop something into a plug and blow it up was on an upside down outlet.","attachment":null,"posted":1715697519},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799560,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I draw one on every new house I work on.
Various builders have complained from time to time.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715698049747931.jpg","filename":"IMG_3204.jpg"},"posted":1715698049},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799618,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797286
> electrons vibrate in place.
AC is more like a push and pull DC current does exhibit electron drift.","attachment":null,"posted":1715707026},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799618
Everything else “vibrates in place”","attachment":null,"posted":1715707189},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791577
Sounds like a ... stretch","attachment":null,"posted":1715767469},{"board":"diy","thread":2790961,"pid":2799936,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791449
If I pull a vacuum cleaner out of the box and see that plug that shit's going straight back to the store","attachment":null,"posted":1715773823}]}
{"title":"Error correction","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to implement an error detecting and correcting system to keep my data perpetually.
I would need it to work through the deaths of individual drive, and I should be able to varry the amount of redundancy
It would also be great to know where there is already error correction in my data
Do y'all know any good resources, programs, etc?
Thanks","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714066114507505.jpg","filename":"Reed–Solomon_error_correction_Mona_Lisa_LroLrLasercomFig4.jpg"},"posted":1714066114},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have a similar situation. How do I know when to oil my bike chain, and what is the best oil to use?","attachment":null,"posted":1714068414},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791597,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"And another question: when I was in San Francisco every restaurant served delicious sour dough bread, and since then I've searched high and low for advice on how to make sour dough bread at home. Any tips would be appreciated.","attachment":null,"posted":1714068720},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791600,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I guess OP accidentally left SQTDDTOT out, but that's fine. I bought some GE silicone sealant in the caulk tube format a year or two ago, and just got around to using it. It seemed a bit runny but otherwise ok. Now, several days later, it's as gooey and runny as it was the first day. I did my entire bathroom, so please tell me it's going to cure eventually and I don't have to clean it all up. THANKS!","attachment":null,"posted":1714069843},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
>I would need it to work through the deaths of individual drive, and I should be able to varry the amount of redundancy
What you want is a RAID array on a NAS. Depending on your needs and cost restraints you will need to pick a raid level (see picrel)
Raid is only one part of keeping data perpetually, and should follow a 3-2-1 backup plan:
3 copies of your data
2 Different storage media (HD + Disc, HD + Tape, HD + SSD, etc)
1 copy off-prem (Stored in separate physical location to avoid catastrophe like fires or floods
Error correction is built into plenty of filetypes, but data should probably be re-written every 2-3 years on a hard drive to meet industry best-practices. there are drive cloning tools you can use to do this (I use Clonezilla). Obviously you need two disks if you are using cloning to rewrite your data periodically. IMO, many people have had data on hard drives for decades, but your risk tolerance is up to you. If you are okay with your data being non-ready you could always archive them with 7zip or winRAR. The compression algorithms have built in error correction on decompression, but obviously if you want to use the files you would need to decompress it.
I hope that helps. People love to scream that physical media is dead, but if you're looking for long term storage and don't mind paying a bit, you can always get a used LTO5 drive and write 1.5tb per tape. Those data tapes are still used for a reason- if stored well and kept in a controlled environment, they will last 30+ years. Biggest problem with tape is that the read/write hardware is often hundreds and hundreds of dollars, even used.
Let me know if you need me to elaborate on anything. this might be a better question for >>>/g/","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714071036096621.png","filename":"RAID_Level_Comparison.png"},"posted":1714071036},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791607
>People love to scream that physical media is dead
what other type of data storage media is there?","attachment":null,"posted":1714071307},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791632,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791607
Alright, see you there","attachment":null,"posted":1714074398},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2791685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791611
Cloud/hosted storage. I should have said "WORM" Write Once Read Many media","attachment":null,"posted":1714087583},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2792477,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
store them on the biggest blockchains...
make a virus that spreads on all the boomer computers in the world that just stores copies of your furryporn maybe with a backdoor so you can access it remotely...
go to all campuses and have all students download copies as an assignment and make it seem like a teacher told them to...
there's many ways...","attachment":null,"posted":1714256575},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2792487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791685
>Cloud/hosted storage
are you kidding? do you think the "cloud" does not use physical media?","attachment":null,"posted":1714257448},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2792623,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791597
traditional bread has the starter formed from what's in the environment. Look up grape rust. That's how san francisco sourdough got started. It's the same if you could tour over france a hundred years ago; variation, and deep flavor. With the advent of quick yeast, an engineered yeast that rises very quickly, it does not properly interact with the dough, to properly pre-digest it. Like a meat chicken, it's a frankenyeast.
You can buy san fran sourdough yeast. But it's not the same as what would have been naturally occuring throughout the region. Look into something like friendship bread, where the starter is handed-down through multiple people over an extended period of time.","attachment":null,"posted":1714278184},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2792635,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791600
>SQTDDTOT
>>2789553","attachment":null,"posted":1714280345},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2793068,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792487
Are you autistic? When people are talking about backing up data on physical media they're 99% talking about making disks or tape backups- things you control. Of course cloud storage uses physical media but from a data backup plan perspective it's not physical media controlled by you, it's hosted storage governed by whatever cloud storage provider you want's SLA. That's like arguing "What do you mean you're going to take an uber home from the bar? SOMEONE is driving!" you fucking retard.","attachment":null,"posted":1714359399},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2793951,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
take a look at snapraid
it gives you a lot of control over parity
it can mix different sized hdds
common raid systems like raid5 are focused more on availability (server does not go down) than on reliablity","attachment":null,"posted":1714514484},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794533,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
Nerd!","attachment":null,"posted":1714618799},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794561,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
so here is the thing, if you look into this the real problem isn't the degradation of your data it is the loss of encryption type. there are already image types that can no longer be decoded because variations on .jpg have gone defunct. it will happen to .jpg, it already is with .webp. kids these days don't know .gif was the o.g. transparent image. a dozen other formats have been lost. did you know there was a .jif image format? document types, images, movies - they will go the way of flash programs before your data degrades so what the fuck is the point?
>>2791596
every time you change the engine oil and also after you ride in the rain/through water or let the bike sit for more than two weeks.
>>2791600
oh shit nebbor what are you doing","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714626249435830.jpg","filename":"ck potato fudge.jpg"},"posted":1714626249},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
>Do y'all know any good resources, programs, etc?
PhD in computer science at a highly regarded university with 10-20 years in a research institute while specialising in data integrity & compression?","attachment":null,"posted":1714642241},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794561
This insight is INVALUABLE
Tell me MOAR
What file type categories get replaced the most often?
Make me ANXIOUS about my data
Also, links to further reading, plz","attachment":null,"posted":1714665399},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794716,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794561
>there are already image types that can no longer be decoded because variations on .jpg have gone defunct. it will happen to .jpg, it already is with .webp.
https://www.xnview.com/en/image_formats/","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714665781678977.png","filename":"XNView.png"},"posted":1714665781},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794796,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794714
>>2794561
Microfilm chads, we win again.","attachment":null,"posted":1714681558},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794801,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794796
Say I wanted to get into using microfilm, what would be the entry cost?
Is this medium compatible with error correction software?","attachment":null,"posted":1714682677},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2794803,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794801
>microfilm,
>error correction software?
Photoshop","attachment":null,"posted":1714682930},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795084,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794796
>Photoshop
Elaborate","attachment":null,"posted":1714746066},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795085,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794803
>Photoshop
Elaborate
Ignore previous reply","attachment":null,"posted":1714746170},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795087,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794801
https://worldmicrographics.com/planetary-microfilm-cameras/
I'm guessing you'd want a reader too considering you'd need to verify the setup and clarity of the result. $200 isn't awful tho, not sure about film costs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714746276},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795088,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794803
>>2795084
>>2795085
jasc paint shop pro","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714746440581457.jpg","filename":"ilya.jpg"},"posted":1714746440},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795098,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
>I want to implement an error detecting and correcting system to keep my data perpetually.
The only thing that comes into my mind is what NASA did to stop computer memories in space from flipping bits due to cosmic radiation, which is just relying on parallelism by building 4 computers checking each others. If one goes nuts, the others take control and correct the errors. They avoided 160 bit flips with this and kept stuff operational.
So you could just do something like a RAID-1, copy the same file on more memory devices, and check the integrity of each bit against its counterparts on other drives. If one bit is 0 but you have 10 registers telling you said bit should be 1, you can recognize it's an error.","attachment":null,"posted":1714748066},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795101,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795098
>So you could just do something like a RAID-1,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dougISKs2vQ","attachment":null,"posted":1714748801},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795087
>https://worldmicrographics.com/planetary-microfilm-cameras/
>buying a new microfilm camera when there are hundreds second hand that more than likely are just getting junked.","attachment":null,"posted":1714766267},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795085
>>2795084
>>2794801
Microfilm is not film like data tape, it's a physical photograph of whatever you want to capture, but stored on very very small (Micro, if you'd believe it) film slides. You can then use a special projector to view the microfilm. It's an entirely analog medium and it was created to store large volumes of print information in less space, before digital was even a thing. Each microfilm slide is 1/25th the size of whatever the source material is, so if you have 25 sheets of paper, it will take up about the same space as 1 sheet which was pretty good back in the day.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microform","attachment":null,"posted":1714766627},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2795418,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794561
I said "MOAR"","attachment":null,"posted":1714829321},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2797649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
I have a Dell R620 server, it has 10 SSD drives in a RAID60 configuration. when a drive goes bad it starts flashing the R/W light, I pull it and replace with one of the spares I have on hand.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715295790315430.jpg","filename":"DELL-R620_๑๙๐๕๐๙_0015.jpg"},"posted":1715295790},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2797802,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791611
Dual layer bluray m-discs","attachment":null,"posted":1715322753},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2797892,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797649
How much does this setup cost? Isn't having to change entire SSDs every time there's an error wasteful?
Is this even error correction?","attachment":null,"posted":1715349468},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2798008,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797892
Nta but I have a similar setup for my nas except it’s different hardware and a lot more drives with a mix of ssd and spinning drives. Oversimplification but the error is not just like “oh there was a teeny issue” it’s like “oh the drive is on its way out” and you pull it from the array and replace it so it’s contents can be rebuilt. It’s not a backup solution because sometimes the rebuild process reveals that 3 more drives were about to die as well and then the whole array is fucked but that’s not super common","attachment":null,"posted":1715368254},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2798297,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"multipar","attachment":null,"posted":1715427444},{"board":"diy","thread":2791587,"pid":2798512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791587
ZFS.
You can set it up so it will constantly scrub the data and fix any errors as they appear. Look into it, it's basically what everyone in this thread is trying to re-invent.","attachment":null,"posted":1715467907}]}
{"title":"/mcg/ - Microcontroller General: Motorola Edition","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2774325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Previous thread:>>2759901
Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.
For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.
>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts
digikey.com
mouser.com
arrow.com
newark.com
>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)
lcsc.com
>I need a part that does X and Y, with Z specifications. How can I find it?
use DigiKey's or Octopart's parametric part search. Then purchase from one of the sellers listed above.
>how do I get started with microcontrollers, where should I start?
There is no defined starting point, grab a book and start reading or buy an arduino off ebay/amazon and start messing around. There are a plethora of examples online to get started.
>resources:
https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics
>RISC-V microcontroller list:
https://codeberg.org/20-100/Awesome_RISC-V/raw/branch/master/RISC-V_MCU_development_boards.pdf","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1710876668030713.jpg","filename":"MC68701CL.jpg"},"posted":1710876668},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2774431,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How powerful is Csound? Could I use it to make a low-grade version of a live musician's kit? Record and loop input, adjustable digital effects pedals, putting together a patch, etc. Is there something else I should investigate that can do that better? I can do all of that at a computer in a DAW, of course, but I want something more portable to dabble with without shelling out several hundred bucks. And I'd like the project to get back into all of this - the programming, the signal engineering, the electronics. I'd probably design and build (make my twist on others' work) some analog pedals as well.","attachment":null,"posted":1710890217},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775277,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774431
just buy a mega2560 and make a digital synth, go from there
its obvious youre clueless","attachment":null,"posted":1711079258},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775305,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775277
be a fag somewhere else","attachment":null,"posted":1711087540},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775317,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774431
Audio is harder than it seems and needs way more than an Arduino in terms of resources if you want to do something, look at the history of DAWs in personal computers to get an idea of how much you can accomplish with each level of processing power, you are not more capable than the companies that made them so that is pretty much the limit for each device.","attachment":null,"posted":1711090111},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775331,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774431
>>2775277
>>2775317
Yeah you'll probably be needing something with the specs of an ESP32 at the very minimum. It's barely able to do a live FFT. Anything less involved than an FFT should be fine with such a chip. You may be able to do some simple Z-transform live audio effects with an 8-bit AVR, but those don't come with I2S hardware so it wouldn't be a good idea.","attachment":null,"posted":1711094342},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775777,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775331
>ESP32 at the very minimum. It's barely able to do a live FFT.
No, mega328 can do FFT just fine, and while also driving an OLED to boot, its actually way overpowered as far as basic DSP goes.
Honestly you mentioning I2S at all makes me think you're a bot or someone with ulterior motives because that makes NO sense in this context.","attachment":null,"posted":1711176165},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775780,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775331
kek no
>>2775777
This nigga is correct. Did this with PIC microcontrollers I was working with over a decade ago, a Mega328 is far more than capable. There are several competing Arduino libraries for this shit, hell here's a great resource:
>3 implementations of the FFT for Arduino AVR platforms!
https://github.com/Klafyvel/AVR-FFT","attachment":null,"posted":1711178134},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775794,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775777
>mega328 can do FFT just fine
With what kind of sample size and rate though? For starters, AVRs are incompatible with conventional 16-bit I2S ADCs/DACs, because they don't have I2S, and they're not 16-bit. Secondly, if you want a decent STFT, you'll want to make at least 3 overlapping windows, each at least 1/20Hz long in order to capture the lowest frequencies. More windows than that if you want better temporal resolution. Even one window is 16*44100/20 = 35280 bits, or 4410 bytes. A 328p has 2kB of RAM, so it's a non-starter. To actually fit it you'd need to crunch down on the bit rate, so go ahead if you want it to sound like shit, plus you'll be getting artefacts if you have just one concurrent sample. Being only 16MHz while juggling 44100kS/s at 16-bit without DMA also feels like it might be a stretch, but I haven't done the math on that one.
Yeah you could probably do an FFT on a 16-bit MCU with DMA and 8 or 16kB of RAM, especially if it has DSP instructions, but that kind of MCU would probably cost more than an ESP32 anyhow.
>>2775780
>https://github.com/Klafyvel/AVR-FFT
>30ms for 256 16 bit samples
Ah, seems this man has done the math for me, seems as if the sample rate is off by a few orders of magnitude. Keep in mind we're talking about the context of live audio. That would be fine for a pulse oximeter.","attachment":null,"posted":1711184872},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775794
It was provided as a reference. Check out one of the numerous other FFT libraries for Arduino.","attachment":null,"posted":1711210501},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2775944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2775794
It’s been decades since I’ve done audio FFTs, but, yeah, 2kB seems unreasonably tiny.
Plus usually you need to do other things with it, filter, scale, and/or reverse FFT and there’s just no way I think.
We used to code our FFTs in assembly, on PC class processors and it still wasn’t real time. For audio, even MIDI can cause delays that can be annoying, and that was designed as fit-for-audio purposes.
t. minimalist","attachment":null,"posted":1711220352},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777014,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is it fine to power my MCU with a buck converter? What about if I’m doing analogue measurements, how would you reduce the switching noise to the ADC? Linear regulators are only really good at 120Hz ripple rejection, should I put a capacitance multiplier before an LDO?
What if I made the measurements synchronously with the SMPS cycles?","attachment":null,"posted":1711414008},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777047,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777014
It’s fine.
Put some more .1μF ‘104’ decoupling capacitors and whatnot in there if you’re worried. You should have a big bag of them.","attachment":null,"posted":1711419984},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777053,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I accidentally ordered these kind of "independent" stripboards that have no bridged connections instead of the railed kind. What is the purpose of these? They seem way harder to work with.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805882522448.html
vs
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801061083792.html","attachment":null,"posted":1711421240},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777053
They are harder to work with. Some people blob solder across the holes, but it's tedious and looks like shit. Others blob solder across uninsulated solid core wire that they lay across the holes, which is quick enough and works ok. I run insulated wires on the top of the board along with the components, and have the stripped end enter a hole adjacent to the component leg, and fold over to touch the component leg directly where it's soldered. Looks kinda funny but works. Some would solder that wire to the adjacent hole itself and blob across the two, which is just the worst of both worlds.
That said, I much prefer the kind with connections like a solderless breadboard. I've recently taken to using strip/vero board, which I think I might like even more than breadboard style. But I'm not sure if they make strip board for FR4, I've only ever seen it on FR2. FR4 is usually double sided, which would make cutting the unwanted connections twice as tedious. A quick search shows some aliexpress guys selling it, but I buy mine locally.","attachment":null,"posted":1711422024},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777060,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777055
Thanks. I guess it should be possible to do everything I wanted to do with insulated wire but will just require more forethought than I was expecting for a stripboard project.
> Others blob solder across uninsulated solid core wire that they lay across the holes, which is quick enough and works ok.
yeah I was expecting to have rails like on breadboard so this should work.
I'll have to put some more forethought than I was expecting into my component placement but I guess it's not the end of the world.","attachment":null,"posted":1711422583},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777053
perfboard soldering","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711443858453027.jpg","filename":"1711407805807.jpg"},"posted":1711443858},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"perfboard soldering","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711443938444492.jpg","filename":"1711407766234.jpg"},"posted":1711443938},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"veroboard soldering","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711444042608514.jpg","filename":"1711408019913.jpg"},"posted":1711444042},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"veroboard","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711444112339211.jpg","filename":"1711407983950.jpg"},"posted":1711444112},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777209,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777191
>>2777193
ah yes, cold soldering ftw.
>>2777194
"talk" kek. i guess five year olds need to start somewhere.","attachment":null,"posted":1711448472},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does a MCU board with HDMI output exist?
The "best" I find it Pi Zero, which is more like a full SoC usually running Linux.","attachment":null,"posted":1711483512},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777414,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777411
Not that I've seen. Greyscale composite video is pretty easy to output from an MCU, Ben Heck even did so from an ATtiny10. I think CNLoHr did colour composite video through the interesting hardware of an ESP8266. I'm fairly sure colour VGA is pretty doable, it should be the same as greyscale composite, multiplied by three, plus sync signals that you're generating internally anyhow. I've heard that you can bit-bang DVI-D with an overclocked RP2040, not sure if it uses up both cores or if there's room to run another program. You can use a passive adapter from DVI-D to HDMI, so it would probably work for what you're looking at, but I'd double check the display's compatibility with whatever resolution you're able to compute. I think DisplayPort will be more difficult than DVI-D.
That said, it is possible to run bare-metal ARM code on a raspberry pi, without linux. But the architecture isn't brilliant for doing so. There's a bootloader that uses the GPU or something, idk they were talking about it last thread.","attachment":null,"posted":1711484004},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777427,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777209
>cold soldering
t. guy who doesn't have a clue
>>2777194
when you change from using a drill to cut the tracks in a hole, to using a knife to cut the tracks between two holes (cut twice at an angle to make a V groove) you can make some really dense (for dip) layouts. god i used to really enjoy refactoring vero layouts. pcb routing just doesn't have the same satisfaction.","attachment":null,"posted":1711485752},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777435,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777414
HDMI on a bare-metal Pi would probably be a pain because there's a good chance it'll only be accessible from the GPU and doesn't have any docs.
But what I actually care about is that I don't need to rely on a SD card. All the SBCs that target the Pi's market boot from SD card, except some expensive ones which have an eMMC on the board.","attachment":null,"posted":1711488195},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777435
>it'll only be accessible from the GPU and doesn't have any docs
>SD card
Both are problems with bare metal Pi. I'd probably want to run a stripped-down linux distro instead, maybe an existing RTOS if they make those with video output.
There is some strange crossover with SBCs and MCU dev-boards that might be more up your alley, but I'm not sure if they have video output capability. Like the BouffaloLab BL808. The Ox64 dev-board doesn't have any video ports on it, there's a small chance that the USB-C can do video output but I doubt it. It has an SD card slot, but I think you can just program its flash memory using JTAG instead. At least a more powerful MCU with more cores like this would be better suited to bit-banging digital video than an overclocked RP2040.
Have you looked into HDMI or DVI-D codec ASIC? Looking at ali I'm just seeing FPGA HDMIboards instead, for $13. FPGA programming HDMI sounds like a pain.
What do you want it for anyhow?","attachment":null,"posted":1711494171},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777463,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777459
I want to output something to an existing low-resolution HDMI screen. If I could design my own PCB I'd just skip HDMI and connect the LCD directly to an ARM MCU, but unfortunately this option is out. The simplest option would be grabbing one of the unused RPIs from my electronics trash bin, but I hate the general fragility of it, both in hardware and software.
>FPGA HDMIboards
This could be fun depending on the FPGA and IP involved.","attachment":null,"posted":1711494852},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777465,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777463
Or just buy a Composite-to-HDMI converter","attachment":null,"posted":1711495367},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777485,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777463
> low resolution
First thing to do is check the display PCB for an unpopulated VGA connector.
HDMI is just shit to deal with in every dimension.","attachment":null,"posted":1711499152},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777486,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777465
Isn't RGB over VGA much easier to generate?
VGA-to-HDMI converters are also cheaper.","attachment":null,"posted":1711499237},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777490,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777486
If you're doing colour, yes. If you're doing greyscale, composite is easier since it's 3 times less channels. Though I guess you can just put greyscale composite across all three channels of VGA and use some extra pins for the sync signals. If the adaptors are cheaper and you're not stretched for I/O pins, definitely go VGA.","attachment":null,"posted":1711499704},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777539,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Looking for some advice, but not sure if it would be better to start my own thread. Figure I'll start here and let you guys flame me if I'm being dumb.
I have this sensor at work that was purchased and we would like to use it. It connects over a serial port. There is software that can be downloaded, but it only runs on Windows. Our Cyber division said fuck you and won't let us install the software. Probably cause it is made by chinks.
I tested the software on a PC not controlled by my organization. The software doesn't seem to send/configure anything on the sensor, it just displays the output, configures the baud rate, etc. I'm wondering if it is feasible (in a minimal amount of time) to write my own software to capture the output? The manufacturer's software dumps out lines sensor data in ascii when in capture mode. Is it feasible to think they are just sending new line terminated ascii data over the serial port?
I loaded the exe into Ghidra but not having much luck hunting down anything related to the serial port comms. It doesn't help that I am unfamiliar with low level Windows code.
Any suggestions are appreciated.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711504433713659.jpg","filename":"1200px-Serial_port_(9-pin).jpg"},"posted":1711504433},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777547,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777539
Just capture the serial output. Can you capture the serial communication? Did you check the datasheet? Did you check whether it's simply sending data on its own to the serial output?
Sounds trivial.","attachment":null,"posted":1711505629},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777550,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777547
Yes, I should be able to capture the serial comm. I just haven't done something like this before and haven't started actually working on it yet, just thinking. Capturing the serial comms is what I planned on doing first, but wasn't sure if I could easily get some clues from the exe by knowing what DLL's to concentrate on. I'm worried it is dumping binary data over serial in a fixed format. I probably won't have the hours to try and decipher it.
I don't have any datasheets, this is a commercial item, not a simple sensor I can buy off an electronics shop. I guess if I really had the time I could crack it open and see whats going on in there.
Hopefully with this info it still sounds trivial.","attachment":null,"posted":1711505898},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777554,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777550
If it's just a passive sensor (no parameter setting or calibration or whatever needed) I'd expect it to be simple enough. But how is the sensor supposed to be used? Do they provide a protocol library or what?","attachment":null,"posted":1711506468},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777539
>I'm wondering if it is feasible (in a minimal amount of time) to write my own software to capture the output?
Absolutely, even if there is strange formatting. You could do it in 20 lines of python, or do it in a shell script, or whatever suits you. I'd start off by seeing if you can snoop the serial lines purely via software to find out what data the manufacturer's software sends and receives. If you don't need to send anything, then it would be a simple matter of plugging it in and opening the serial port in bash or python or the arduino ide or whatever.
>Is it feasible to think they are just sending new line terminated ascii data over the serial port
Very much so, a lot of RS232 peripherals use very barebones data formats. But only one way to find out.
>>2777550
>binary data over serial in a fixed format
Maybe, but a hex editor and a comparison of the raw serial data to the original software's dumped data should give you some clues.","attachment":null,"posted":1711516955},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What is the absolute cheapest thing I can run armbian on? The Orange Pi Zero 2W is nice but I don't need HDMI and it looks like there's no radioless version for less cost.","attachment":null,"posted":1711555265},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777808,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777784
You can Linux run on almost anything as long as you have enough memory. For specific distros such as armbian look at their list of supported hardware.","attachment":null,"posted":1711559254},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2777956,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777784
the Ox64 can run linux if you're careful.","attachment":null,"posted":1711575158},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777956
> ox64
I hate linux.
I hate RISC-V, and RISC in general.
I hate the pinecil.
I hate chinese made stuff.
However, I looked through through the Ox64 docs because I never heard of it, and all their other stuff, and what they’re doing over there is pretty cool.","attachment":null,"posted":1711600557},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"its been a long time since i touched my arduino and now its covered in dust. how best to clean it?","attachment":null,"posted":1711611546},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778205,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778196
dry compressed air
ipa + toothbrush if there's anything that compressed air won't get","attachment":null,"posted":1711615608},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778242,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm trying to learn about TPM and potentially use it in some designs, the problem I have is that the microcontrollers I'm used to can't disable their SWD interface, cryptographically verifying the firmware just to make it completely exposed and vulnerable through SWD is retarded, so what are some cheap microcontrollers with security features?","attachment":null,"posted":1711627495},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778196
if its a nano you can just swish it around in your mouth, my unos I take with me into the shower","attachment":null,"posted":1711659907},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778583,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777594
thanks for the response and direction my dude. hoping to be able to concentrate on it during the next week or two.","attachment":null,"posted":1711674801},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2778654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"so I've planned to buy a couple of raspberry zero 2's for projects, but do they have thermal issues? especially when used in 24/7 operations, i.e. as a Pi-Hole unit?
just wondering if it's overkill as I'm working on a case design that includes a 3007 fan to cool it","attachment":null,"posted":1711687737},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779233,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I ordered a Raspberry Pi 5 and a NVME PCIe HAT. Apparently it comes with several limitations:
> max 1A/5V
> issues with Phison controllers (most WD SSDs)
> issues with Polaris controllers
> experimental PCIe 3.0 support
Link to the HAT I bought:
> https://wiki.geekworm.com/X1001
This rules out like half the products on the market. Any of you drive a Raspberry Pi 5 with a NVME?","attachment":null,"posted":1711801967},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779251,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779233
>it's another RPI consists of half-assed hardware that would fail on the real market but "hobbyists" buy it as if it was gold coated poop episode","attachment":null,"posted":1711805691},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779271,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779251
You'll have to sacrifice some reliability for compatibility. It's an all purpose single-board computer that's meant for tinkering, prototyping and hobby projects. I'm not going to run critical infrastructure on it. My main purpose is something small that I can put in my backpack. I will install a VoIP/Radio-Simulator on it for work and probably jellyfin so I can use it as mediaserver. I was aware of most issues before I bought it. I give you, 100$ is overpriced for what it is, though the reason people buy it instead of the chink clones is compatibility with a huge variety of third-party hardware and software. Good luck achieving that with some niche product.","attachment":null,"posted":1711809462},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779471,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779271
Is there a reason to use SSDs for a media server, other than noise? I'd have thought HDDs would be more than fast enough, cheaper per GB, and will last more write cycles.","attachment":null,"posted":1711838193},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">have potentiometer tied to ADC channel A
>have current sense amplifier tied to ADC channel B
>at low pot voltages the current limit isn't detected at all, at high pot voltages it triggers even at zero current
>pot voltage is measured as being too high when current is high
>removing pot voltage measurement calls and only measuring current works flawlessly regardless of pot voltage
time for another game of "spot the firmware bug that causes crosstalk", fuck me
pic is my isr and start of the loop. putting the conditional checks in the isr has the same result, it just runs a lot slower. chip is an attiny13.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711848572461024.png","filename":"not free running.png"},"posted":1711848572},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779582,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
Since there is no /ohm/ thread I'll ask here. I'm using a servo as a spindle motor that's driven by one of these Chinese AASD driver and I'm trying to control the driver with a pulse controller SMC01 and I'm a little hesitant with the wiring. here's a screenshot of the AASD db25 port used to for inputing commands","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711849791478409.png","filename":"AASD CN2 PInout.png"},"posted":1711849791},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779582
and here is the pulse controller
I would try this:
>DC+ Pin 9
>DC- Pin 10
>Dir+ Pin 4
>Pul+ Pin 3
>EN maybe pin6? or maybe pin2?
>GND Pin5 and Pin14
what do you guys think?","attachment":null,"posted":1711850277},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779593,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779588","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711850393752807.png","filename":"SMC01.png"},"posted":1711850393},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2777077","attachment":null,"posted":1711862816},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779672,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779582
There is an ohm thread, it was just made too early and by a phoneposting zoomer who fucked up the title: >>2777077","attachment":null,"posted":1711862934},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779678,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779588
For the enable signal, it would be pin 2, but it needs to be pulled to ground to turn the servo on. So depending on the relative polarities of the enable signal on either end, you may need to add a transistor to pull it down.
Pin 6 is just a pulse output, not an input.
Pin 10 being 0V feels kinda ambiguous, since it has an unlabelled switch to the 0V of the PSU. Lower down the same pin is described as "Community port", so maybe COM refers to communication instead of common, but the connection does look like a 0V here. I'd look for a different pin description or wiring diagram.
Further down pin 1 is grounded, but that looks to be for the digital signals directly out of the AASD driver.","attachment":null,"posted":1711863895},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779699,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"im looking at how to control the arduino and the website keeps telling me to install their IDE but i dont want their IDE. what are my options?","attachment":null,"posted":1711871339},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779711,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779699
...install the ide also dont get into ardunio in 2024. Go Pico or ESP32","attachment":null,"posted":1711874047},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779713,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do you go about radio controlling a microcontroller? Like if you want to turn one into a rc car and another into its controller? Google is being surprisingly unhelpful. Is there a good module that I can get on aliexpress or something","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1711874159468488.jpg","filename":"1701703908084483.jpg"},"posted":1711874159},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779718,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779566
Wait, the current signal is always above 2.5V, so I could add a resistor in series with the high leg of the pot, making it always below 2.5V, and just decide which thing I've measured based off whether it's above or below 0x80. Might make the pot a bit further away.
>>2779699
Either way you need to install something to serve as the programming software. I'd recommend AVRdude + AVR-GCC + text editor of your choice, but there's also:
>VScode + PlatformIO
>Atmel Studio (windows only)
>MPlab X
>Arduino command line interface
>Arduino web interface
PlatformIO works for other brands of microcontroller too, the others are mainly for Atmel AVRs.
>>2779711
>Pico or ESP32
>not based Risc-V
>>2779713
I'd just buy a 433 MHz receiver and transmitter pair. If that proves insufficient, there are more standard methods of RC car control, for which you might want to inquire on /rcg/. Those guys make their own quadcopters all the time, there's probably some making RC cars too.","attachment":null,"posted":1711877342},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779720,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779718
i have vscode already so i'll try out platformio
>>2779711
i have the arduino sitting around >>2778196","attachment":null,"posted":1711877573},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779739,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779566
Holy shit that forest of 01001001110101010010101 magic numbers makes my eyes bleed. Use fucking constants for flag bits.
>inb4 #define ONE 0b00000001","attachment":null,"posted":1711885794},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2779967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I am not sure if this is proper thread to ask about FPGAs but I have no idea where to ask this kind of question. I have noticed that some telegram schizos recently started posting memes about those really powerfull FPGA boards that you can buy online. Is there something special about them? Are those like usefull for some kind of rebel purposes apart from crypto mining?","attachment":null,"posted":1711923994},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2780714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to get into python programming for cyber security work in the future. Should I get an electronics kit to learn it faster?","attachment":null,"posted":1712073219},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2780752,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780714
Can you send a link to that listing, uh for science?","attachment":null,"posted":1712079010},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2780797,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2780752
just google the words on screen, dummy","attachment":null,"posted":1712084694},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782069,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">ThreadX
>associated X libraries
Why is everything associated with Microsoft such a piece of shit?","attachment":null,"posted":1712320573},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782069
Company run by a bunch of indian MBA and marketing grads from a diploma mill.
What could go wrong?","attachment":null,"posted":1712337575},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782189
ThreadX is somewhat ok, except for the awful style. But the other libs seem to cause more work than they help.","attachment":null,"posted":1712339115},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
hello everybody
can you guys confirm for me that usb/serial to uart is the only way of connecting a raspberry pi 3 to a laptop for the purposes of baremetal programming? i don't want to constantly fuck around shifting the sd card, and i am guessing that ethernet and usb won't work without an operating system. actually i am not sure the pi3 has usb in. i dunno, lol!
thanks for your help.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712371471282741.png","filename":"sir do you realize you're a cat.png"},"posted":1712371471},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778242
microsoft had a line of 'secure' azure sphere microcontrollers. you could look into them if you haven't already.","attachment":null,"posted":1712372342},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782540,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">buy myself a nice custom soldered board (esp32 base) to avoid the hassle of countless hours of connecting pins and configuring shit
>Install library in arduino ide, select board, shit works like a charm, 20min setup time to start coooding
>"This is cool, but this ide is kinda shit"
>Discover platformIO, literally just a vscode plugin with a basic config file
>thisisperfect.jpg
>Spend 3 hours trying out old projects using platformIO for my board, none work
>Find out that the second the hardware is changed or customized in a new iteration, deviating from super generic esp32, any regular platformio config goes to shit, making it basically unusable
>You would have to spend countless hours making a custom board definition or meticulously copying it over from the Arduino ide boards
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Guess I'll have to keep using Arduino IDE.","attachment":null,"posted":1712404295},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782563,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782540
You can use the arduino plugin for vscode.","attachment":null,"posted":1712409461},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782565,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782563
Ist it any good?
For me it was more about the kino package management of platformio and being able to code normal cpp stuff instead of this .ino shit","attachment":null,"posted":1712409594},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782576,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782540
>>2782563
>>2782565
Nvm
Just got it to work with platformIO lmfao. Shit documentation made me waste 2 hours only to find out that you had to use CUSTOM_BOARDV2 instead of CUSTOM_BOARD as a build flag keeeek","attachment":null,"posted":1712412430},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782584,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pre-made MCU board with LCD that offers at least a 5 inch screen?","attachment":null,"posted":1712413217},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782601,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It looks like in pico/rp2040 you need a bit of delay to access value of goio inputs after setting gpio functions. I have a button matrix and I am enabling rows one by one and then reading columns to scan it.
Normally both rows and columns are input pull high. To read a row, I set row pin to output low and then read the gpio state to get button states for that row. And then reset row back to pull high. But it looks like I need a bit of delay (in useconds range) after setting row to output low and before reading gpio register
I didn't see anything in documentation about this","attachment":null,"posted":1712416310},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782601
Maybe some debounce shit going on? Some delay is inevitable, but microseconds would be too much.","attachment":null,"posted":1712416558},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782602
Sorry, maybe it is not in us, I didn't check how low it needs. I just put a 10 us delay and it worked","attachment":null,"posted":1712416735},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"if im getting into stm mcus from avr is it worth trying their cubeIDE or do i just go straight to bare metal programming?","attachment":null,"posted":1712428001},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782688,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782673
stcube is Arduino tier, in a bad way
I first found out about it ~10 years ago, and immediately realized that it was trash because it wanted to generate custom C files from guifag IDE configurations. You're fucked if you want to use svn or git or whatever for source code control.","attachment":null,"posted":1712431159},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782690,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782673
I always do bare metal programming. Especially for something that is going to be put into production.
I use IDEs for messing around though. Sometimes, you’ll disassemble code generated from a C compiler to see what does with it (i.e. write it for you) but you always have to look at it to make sure the compiler didn’t do so something stupid or inefficient (like not using obvious single instructions or addressing modes available on your microprocessor, or filling up the execution units and cache lines with multiple operations when one will do, or putting unnecessary things on the stack that don’t need to be saved, etc.)
Otherwise, you don’t really know what you’re doing. As some other anon mentioned, some of those generic library functions are hilarious. If it can’t be done efficiently as a macro at compile time, don’t do it.","attachment":null,"posted":1712431315},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782888,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782690
Is freertos bare metal?","attachment":null,"posted":1712452839},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782888
bare metal means no OS
freertos is an OS","attachment":null,"posted":1712456623},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782930,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782888
> freertos = bare metal?
No, freertos = fluffy.
Firstly, almost nobody needs the “real time” aspect of it. It’s also talored to the class of μC that is between real microcontrollers (8051, 68HC11, MSP430, PIC, etc.) and “PC Class” SoCs like the rasberry pi 3. These middle ground processors are usually some kind of RISC perversion as well (such as ARM) making them painful to code directly on and necessitating things like “C compilers” and, hence, the perceived need for ridiculous ideas like malloc() and multi-threading.","attachment":null,"posted":1712456961},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782930
How ridiculous. Writing ARM assembler is easier than x86.","attachment":null,"posted":1712457993},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782937,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782934
Neither is a breeze, but x86 (especially pre-flat-386) is a mess of dealing with segments and segment overrides. In comparison, ARM just needs to dump literal pools from time to time, like a dog taking a crap on a neighbor's lawn.","attachment":null,"posted":1712458263},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782937
> segments are hard.
How ridiculous. I think complaining about segments on their very few microconrollers out there is a bit of a “meme problem” and they can actually come in handy. They’re not the only ones that had to implement unusual shit to increase the memory addressability to 20 bits.
The other “meme problem” was processors (e.g. SPARC) that claimed you had to write eveything in, say, “C” because there was “too many registers”
Too many registers!?!? That’s like being too happy, or having too much money.","attachment":null,"posted":1712458914},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782934
Yeah, in the same way writing in “scheme” is easier than writing in common lisp. It’s a skill issue.
Ideally you want a lot of instructions that do shit you want to do, and have all memory addressing modes available on all those instructions including MOV [mem addr], [mem addr].
And do it all in one clock cycle like RISC was supposed to do. Most modern CISC cores do everything in 1 clock now which is why the idea of RISC became silly. In fact, now the bottleneck is those wasteful wide-ass instructions once memory became the bottleneck. That’s why ARM stole the “thumb” instructions from SuperH to try and clawback some performance leading to the big effing mess that it is today. “ARM” barely means anything now.","attachment":null,"posted":1712459599},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782952,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782925
>>2782930
The default ch32x035 project has no freertos. If I had freertos I would have one task for each job: communicating with the 3d printer, another task communicating with the pc, and another one to bit bang an h bridge driving a piezo. If I put everything into one main loop I have to commit to an ordering, and the piezo period has to be a multiple of the main loop period. This reminds me of imgui.","attachment":null,"posted":1712459694},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782952
> 3d printer
Hello zoomer.
> communicating with the PC
You have whole PC what do you even need a microcontroller for? I don’t get it.
> bit-bang piezo
You’re trying to make me start cutting myself aren’t you? You got the wrong piezo, you need the one that makes the noise already instead of spawing a task to spew a square wave into it. See picrel.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712462031096131.jpg","filename":"3BF9B232-F428-4CF4-915E-CF5C69003160.jpg"},"posted":1712462031},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2782963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782957
The PC only has one ADC channel and it's not as good as the ad7606. You're right that an active buzzer would be easier.","attachment":null,"posted":1712462823},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782944
No you mong, it's not simply "segments are hard", it's that assembly language support 8086 is hard because segments mean there are more things to keep track of, and you have to pay attention to shit like near vs far calls.
t.went with 68000 during that era","attachment":null,"posted":1712486683},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783662,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
i want to make a drone using arduino, anyone knows
found that you can make one using multiwii/wii gyroscope, but i dont know the basics of the brushless motor(what kind do i need) or the kind of battery that i need
any tips to get starting?","attachment":null,"posted":1712579802},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783855,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783662
>>>/diy/rcg","attachment":null,"posted":1712607042},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783662
>found that you can make one using multiwii/wii gyroscope
Could just get a MPU6050.","attachment":null,"posted":1712614414},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783902,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I’m ready to move up from Arduino and start programming MCUs in C. Should I continue with AVRs (atmega168) or should I just go directly to STM32? It seems like a pain in the ass to program the AVR compared to the STM32","attachment":null,"posted":1712615743},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783938,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783902
AVR was a school project by students in Norwegia.
The ‘A’ in “AVR” stands for ‘Alf’ — see picrel. Any more questions?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712623612534122.jpg","filename":"2D7A867C-263D-4985-84AA-24132C8F1EA9.jpg"},"posted":1712623612},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2783944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783016
> promulgating quickly googled meme problems
No, that’s not why there are near and far calls, and the 68k has the same shit for the same reasons—BCC, for example, has 8 bit branch-to addresses as well as 16-bit branch-to addresses
> doesn’t pay attention
Thank god you didn’t work in life support or critical systems.","attachment":null,"posted":1712625236},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784358,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hello everyone! Does anyone here have some experience with CC1101? I wanted to know how hard would it be to control its frequency with a microcontroller. I have read that people do it either by writing data to this chip's registers or by modifying capacitors/chokes on the circuit. Which approach is correct? is it even possible to do that? Thanks in advance.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712699088442961.jpg","filename":"CC1101-chip-physical-image-13-Design-content-and-program-demonstration-The-device-is.jpg"},"posted":1712699088},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So I picked up someone's project from 2006 on a PIC18F242 and want to make small changes + recompile on MPLABX.
I tried to use the standard (unlicensed) version of the C18 compiler with MPLABX, but it doesn't recognise headers
>#include "io18f252.h"
>#include "Inpic18.h"
and if I comment those out it raises
>WARNING: This version of MPLAB C18 does not support procedural abstraction. Procedural abstraction will not be run.
for this code:
[code]
__bank volatile __no_init char OutBuffer[256] @ 0x100;
[/code]
Can any old-timers or people otherwise knowledgeable about updating ancient products here give me tips on bringing this project up to date?","attachment":null,"posted":1712699730},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784419,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"do mcg still love Japan?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5MNLTc7YhY","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712703898989636.jpg","filename":"wiring5.jpg"},"posted":1712703898},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784440,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"reposting here. Kinda new, sorry. What do you guys recommend for small wifi enabled boards? I want to make a magnet sensor for my refrigerator that will talk with a pi to send an email to me so I know when my cheap & available carbs are in danger. Seeing a lot of feather stuff, but I'm going to want to eventually make like 6 of these, so don't want to spend a whole lot per board.","attachment":null,"posted":1712705344},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784444,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
Is there any way to make a intel 8088 be a microcontroller? Im very familiar with it and id like to be able to use it to drive io pins like an arduino","attachment":null,"posted":1712705745},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784453,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784444
With accompanying IO chip(s) I think it's doable for any microprocessor like that. Like the 6502's 6522, which might even work for you here too if the addresses don't overlap. If not it's basically a few address decoders and registers, might be doable to implement using a dozen ICs but that wouldn't exactly be compact.
This guy asks a relevant question:
https://www.reddit.com/r/retrocomputing/comments/106g6oh/questions_about_the_8088_and_its_functionality/
But I didn't stick around to see if there's a good answer in all the nested replies.","attachment":null,"posted":1712706604},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784453
I tinker with ibm pc compatibles and ms dos as a hobby so in theory any program i write in a dos BASIC, pascal, turboc etc can be programmed to an eeprom and run. I think theres ms dos microcontrollers out there but i want bare metal so i can cheaply install it in a permanently soldered project","attachment":null,"posted":1712707081},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784470,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784459
MPUs aren't exactly designed to be MCUs, and while there is overlap, it doesn't seem as if this was done with the 8088's case in particular. Either do more research than my 15s of googling, design a hodgepodge board full of decoders and registers, or pick a different chip. If you're aiming for a low-cost chip, the CH32V003 is looking pretty good right about now.","attachment":null,"posted":1712707707},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784444
First of all, you want an 8086 based microcontroller, not an 8088—that is crippled version. Second, you want 80186 or a NEC V20 or something.
I think it’s insane they don’t make any readily available and cheap 80x86 microcontrollers/SoCs… I would think all the patents expired on those like SuperH.","attachment":null,"posted":1712708723},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784499,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784489
>I would think all the patents expired on those like SuperH
You say that like there are readily available and cheap SuperH microcontrollers. The first box is ticked, but certainly not the second.","attachment":null,"posted":1712709223},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784557,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784499
They were selling super-h dev boards for a few bucks years ago, but the’ve gone way back up since then because of replacement of old parts.
There are some open vhdl and asic models for them, but nobody’s bothered to do anything with them thus far.
Imagine an alternate world where they took off and you were typing this on a SuperH based PC.","attachment":null,"posted":1712717213},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
Someone is trying to sell 107 EPROMs for $75. Worth it?","attachment":null,"posted":1712728917},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784419
I forgot that epson makes microcontrollers. Massive street cred.
24 bit registers. Nice.
Picrel dev board uses the one with LED drivers. Nice.
Unobtainium. Not nice.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1712732480346400.jpg","filename":"8AF89E1F-8506-4971-AC54-0EBF28DE1BE9.jpg"},"posted":1712732480},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784629,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784616
Eproms can be emulated pretty easily.
Are you making an art sculpture?","attachment":null,"posted":1712732624},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784631,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784616
>EPROMs
Wait you mean quartz window UV erasable EPROMs? Personally I love the way they look, but I already have a dozen of them and wouldn't really know what to do with more. I guess if you do a lot of stuff that would normally use a socketed EEPROM you can use an EPROM for that instead, but 107 sounds like a lot unless you're selling them as game cartridges for a retro console. Print off some cool stickers for the windows. Please someone do this.
Since I heard some boomer in a Jaycar mention it, I've always wanted to use an EPROM as an image sensor.","attachment":null,"posted":1712733236},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784631
>always wanted to use an EPROM as an image sensor.
Cool, pretty sure I saw somebody do that on hackaday.","attachment":null,"posted":1712735470},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784631
> quartz window
You almost never see them that way because we put foil stickers (like floppy disk write protect tabs) on top of them so some fucker doesn’t erase it when poking around with a high powered flashlight or leaves the cover off under a fluroescent lamp.
>>2784639
Some of the first “webcams” … you know, for your Apple II… which have nothing to do with the “web” were decapped RAM chips.","attachment":null,"posted":1712779169},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2784995,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784944
>decapped RAM chips
That was DRAM, not EPROM.
I don't think anyone has ever used EPROM as an image sensor, and anon was just not paying attention.","attachment":null,"posted":1712789081},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2785027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784995
>I don't think anyone has ever used EPROM as an image sensor
kodak got a patent for one using eeproms a long time ago
a company this innovative is a dream investment for your 401(k)","attachment":null,"posted":1712792633},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2785055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784995
>I don't think anyone has ever used EPROM as an image sensor, and anon was just not paying attention
Well EPROMs don't need to be decapped in the first place, but you might be right. But the topic was definitely EPROMs when I was talking to the guy, because at least one of us was holding an EPROM in our hand at the time. Yes Jaycar still sells EPROMs, but they're not exactly current products.
Found this comment on a hackaday article:
>There once was someone who made an image sensor out of an eprom
>Loaded all zeros or all ones to the eprom and then focused an image onto the array
>It was only black and white and had impractical long exposure times but it did work
>Unfortunately I cannot find the link anymore
I can't find anything else like it either. I imagine it was far slower than using DRAM. With DRAM you could vary the exposure period around the maximum time the memory cells can hold their charge, and see an image out of even a small difference. Since that charge holding period is much less than a second compared to the minutes for an exposure with an EPROM, you could probably do video with such a system.","attachment":null,"posted":1712796330},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786600,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do you need any additional wiring to send serial data from an arduino uno to an attached XBee transceiver if you have the XBee mounted on an XBee shield attached to the uno? I can get these little shits to talk fine using XTCU but it refuses to send API frames to the other transceivers despite being discoverable and the frames in my arduino sketch being valid. Should add that these are Xbee Series 3s I rolled back to the Series 1 firmware since my best source for how to do this is for the Series 1s.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713103569219077.jpg","filename":"1706980120571466.jpg"},"posted":1713103569},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786600
The hardware on the Xbee module itself may differ somehow, I'd try to use the series 3 firmware instead.","attachment":null,"posted":1713127520},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786731
Got it working in transparent (retard) mode where its just a glorified serial bus. I will take this W","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713129015680452.jpg","filename":"1712448357794262.jpg"},"posted":1713129015},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I find out the size of my binary, that will take up the flash space? I am building for pico.
Is it the size of .bin file?","attachment":null,"posted":1713134127},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786806,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"hi, retard who just fried two arduinos here,
just wondering if anyone has any guess to the fault in my application is if the damage manifests as the 5v now being permanently shorted to ground.
did it to a nano and and uno r3. the uno has removable dip and curiously the sockets for 5v and gnd are not shorted (implying its not a component or trace fusing?) AND the 5v and gnd pins on the dip itself are also not shorted(implying the chip itself is not damaged?). this must be bad probing on by part right? how else could that work? also again please guess at the kind of retardation which causes this type of failure","attachment":null,"posted":1713140762},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786838,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786762
Your compiler or programming tool should tell you? Maybe you need to use verbose mode. The bin file may not be accurate.
>>2786806
What did you do to cause the fault? Were any wires plugged into the arduinos when it happened? Did you power from USB or VIN or directly via the 5V pin? Was the DIP ATmega plugged in the right way around?","attachment":null,"posted":1713145675},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786853,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786806
Stop powering your micrwave using 5v pin of your arduino and pulling too much current from it. Or you are just straight up shorting it mistakenly","attachment":null,"posted":1713148218},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786838
>>2786853
sorry for not being clear. made a circuit by soldering female headers to perfboard and connecting with wires, then i plug the arduinos (and an H-bridge module) into those headers (directly in the case of the nano, with jumpers to test with the uno). the circuit is constructed by connecting the underside of the female headers with soldered wires.
by putting the arduinos into the circuit have constructed, they become damaged. obviously i have made an error in constructing my circuit (am retarded).
my question was more about if you can guess where the error in my circuit is based on the way the boards are damaged. the 5v and gnd pins are now permanently shorted when removed from circuit.
like would you expect this sort of damage if my circuit shorted gnd to 5v during operation? or would that provide a lower resistance path and actually prevent an overcurrent from that pin?
probably a stupid question, and i'm definitely going to basically restart the circuit, but i don't really know where the fault is. its pretty sparse in connections and everything looks okay, so my confusion must be a lurking issue","attachment":null,"posted":1713152828},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786893
Could have happened if you fed a higher voltage to your arduinos somehow. Draw a rough schematic of which pins were connected where.","attachment":null,"posted":1713165691},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786953,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786944
hope this is clear, made some changes between the frying of the boards to because suspected 12v vin might have been too much, but when i connected the uno up to the H-bridge i think thats when it broke? it was hard to tell. not pictured are some extra data connections that i think were working before.
H- bridge is one of these L298N like
https://www.handsontec.com/dataspecs/L298N%20Motor%20Driver.pdf","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713168007028919.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-04-15 024651.png"},"posted":1713168007},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786972,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786953
Which wire was the 9V wall adapter connected to in the second image?","attachment":null,"posted":1713174251},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786972
9v wall adapter was plugged via barrel jack into a breadboard compatible linear voltage regulator. the 5v output of this module was plugged into 5v pin of arduino","attachment":null,"posted":1713174503},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786974
Ah, those two lines in the image were one sentence.
Not seeing anything glaringly obvious. My only guess is that some shitty solder blob shorted something to 12V. Hook it up to power without the arduino and check the voltage to ground on all the L298N's pins. Also double check that the breadboard adapter outputs properly, I've had those die before.","attachment":null,"posted":1713175202},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786953
post pics of soldering","attachment":null,"posted":1713176902},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783902
AVR is significantly simpler than STM32. Both at an architecture level and programming the microcontroller itself with avr-libc. What pain points are you struggling with?","attachment":null,"posted":1713177200},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2786987,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786975
okay, so when powered the L98N's 5v input was reading about 12v, and all of the enable inputs were around five. reckon thats probably what fried my boards. have another L298N module that reads the expected 5v at the 5v. a little worried to go ahead with it though because i thought this first module was fine from previous use and i don't know what broke it","attachment":null,"posted":1713178907},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784358
I don't know anything about CC1101 but it should be obvious that you won't be modifying capacitors or chokes with a microcontroller. There will probably be an optimal frequency range based off the components that are on there but with the register writes you can force it to run at other frequencies with some reduction in quality.","attachment":null,"posted":1713186187},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786987
put 10k resistors in between the arduino and module on the en1/2 lines, and leave the 5v unconnected. this will reduce the chance of it destroying the arduino if it goes fucky","attachment":null,"posted":1713186530},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787091,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are my DRV8874 all rejects? I did picrel but the motor only turns one way. That is, IN1 high IN2 low on 2/3 of them makes it go but IN2 high, IN1 low doesn't turn the opposite way.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713196629348079.png","filename":"drv8874.png"},"posted":1713196629},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787093,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787091
As usual I find the problem right after asking. With PMODE logic high it does the right thing.","attachment":null,"posted":1713196948},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786987
IIRC there's a jumper on the L298N to set whether it gets internal or external power for its 5V rail, maybe something went wrong with that?","attachment":null,"posted":1713213562},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787223,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787021
do you mean as like a pull down like 1 or actually in series like 2?
>>2787190
yeah maybe, i had not been using the jumper because earlier iterations were using higher than 12v(this is fine according to documentation, and it was working). don't really remember but might have tried the jumper with higher voltages while troubleshooting.
anyway, will be using jumper on the undamaged module so i dont cook the 5v arduino pin, but still worried about the 5v high enables on the failure","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713219120884210.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-04-15 171144.png"},"posted":1713219120},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787297,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787223
In series like 2. But it’s also coming through the voltage pin, so that alone isn’t going to save you. Keeping the power supplies seperate and using the internal 5V regulator for the H bridge is probably the way to go. The only wires between the arduino and the H bridge should be ground, and signal wires with series resistors. Note that resistors might cause issues depending on the L298N’s input stage.","attachment":null,"posted":1713229860},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787302,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787223
I could only get L298N to slow down by setting the PWM to an unpleasantly low frequency (100Hz). The other motor drivers I've tried are much better in that respect. But for whatever reason L298N is still the first one in the curriculum.","attachment":null,"posted":1713230294},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787304,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2779471
I used mythtv since 05 or so, now emby. The heat output from SSD is or was lower, and latency or jitter is more predictable which might be important. Also loud music bass will not disrupt a SSD.","attachment":null,"posted":1713230383},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787320,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787297
yes, i will use the jumper on the module to provide 5v and power the arduino with an external buck regulator.
>L298N's input stage
i am not familiar with this, could you elaborate?
>>2787302
I am using this at full speed currently, just switching directions","attachment":null,"posted":1713232761},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787320
If the 30 or 100 uA across the resistor drops the GPIO's voltage below 2.3V it won't work according to the data sheet.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713233921623085.jpg","filename":"L298-datasheet.jpg"},"posted":1713233921},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
Anyone have experience using a LoRa module? Wich module and how bad it's the latency at +5km? It's LoRa the best option for having a constant stream of data, the packages would be ~100 bytes","attachment":null,"posted":1713269203},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787451
>constant stream of data
LoRa cannot do this, the protocol defines a need to have down-time between packets to keep the airwaves clear.","attachment":null,"posted":1713295477},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787693,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787451
Depends on what you define as “constant stream”
Lora sends data using a “chirp” like a bird.
TCP (well originally) could handle 5 minute idles with no packets and still maintain the connection at the OS level.","attachment":null,"posted":1713296142},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2787735,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787684
>>2787693
I would like a package every 100ms but one package every 2 seconds is the longest I can do","attachment":null,"posted":1713301892},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2788059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I’m traveling for work and brought my basement with me. Ended up in a section 8 extended stay and now I’m thinking about what sort of imporomptu security I can come with. I’ve got a good selection of ICs, relays, caps and resistors with me as well as esp32, laser/collector, small servo and a dc -dc super boost converter that’ll put out a couple good sparks so I’m not short on ideas just wondering what you would do. Also have a gun but that’s not as fun as an elaborate Rube Goldberg crackhead zapper.","attachment":null,"posted":1713367999},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789096,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I heard that there are issues with the ESP32S2 and its USB not waking up without replugging it. I’ve also heard that high polling rates can cause issues. I’m looking for a similar MCU with both USB HID and Bluetooth as the ideal mouse/keyboard/joystick controller. Enough GPIOs to run a 100% keyboard matrix would be nice too, but isn’t a requirement. Having existing code written would also be handy. Will other ESPs work for this, like the S3 or C6? Or should I look for something from Nordic? Or perhaps combine a USB HID MCU like an RP2040 or STM32 with a dedicated Bluetooth chip/module? I’d probably run it off a lithium iron phosphate cell, but those go up to 3.6V so probably need to use an HT7333.
I want to be able to run a corded mouse, and unplug the cable and have it seamlessly transition to wireless. The option of communicating wirelessly to the other end of the cord or to a dongle would be neat too.","attachment":null,"posted":1713577465},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787328
Lol, dark-mode data sheet. That’s a first.","attachment":null,"posted":1713655482},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789830,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hello /mcg/
I stumbled across HC-05 serial BT transceivers on ebay and have some questions. I take it these things talk TTL serial on the MCU side, BT on the other. Do I need a pair of them? or is there a serial BT standard, so I could get away with just a bog-standard BT dongle on a computer?
Also, how good is BT at passing through gyprock walls?","attachment":null,"posted":1713719403},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789830
It’s probably able to be picked up by the computer’s standard Bluetooth modem/dongle, but how that data is actually received isn’t necessarily trivial. I think my laptop’s Bluetooth hardware shows up as a serial port though so it might be pretty easy. Otherwise it’s probably pretty doable with a python lib.","attachment":null,"posted":1713732193},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782937
Segments weren't even remotely hard.","attachment":null,"posted":1713735263},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789925
No, especially since we had multiple dedicated segment registers.
But, don’t forget that zoomers can’t even deal with wires on their keyboard and mouse, so perspectives are changing as to “what is hardship?”","attachment":null,"posted":1713743900},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2789978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789967
>zoomers can’t even deal with wires on their keyboard and mouse
This isn't even remotely true, fuck face.","attachment":null,"posted":1713746872},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789978
t. zoomie","attachment":null,"posted":1713753266},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790027
Wrong, again.","attachment":null,"posted":1713754126},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790075,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2789978
Sorry, you’re right. I heard about zoomers that need those PS/2 wired keyboards because they have low latency true n-key rollover for pro mindcraft gaming.","attachment":null,"posted":1713759943},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790088,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790033
Lol no","attachment":null,"posted":1713764894},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790075
It's as if you enjoy being wrong.","attachment":null,"posted":1713771107},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782422
Wow this is an amazing question and somebody should answer it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713859455880144.jpg","filename":"1712532520083664.jpg"},"posted":1713859455},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790531
Yeah this thread can be brutally slow, I'm considering leaving it to die and merging it back with /ohm/, but when it is used it acts as a nice containment thread for a bunch of code posting. /g/ moves too fast for all but the simplest of embedded questions, though speaking of which you may have luck on the friendly gnu/linux general thread, they know something of raspis.
Are you the anon from last thread? I can't think of any other methods, assuming booting from an image on an external storage device is no more preferable than booting from an image on the SD card.
The whole GPU bootloader thing looks like a massive pain to me. All I can suggest to you is to consider:
>forking an existing bare metal project for the pi where all the hard work has been done for you
>choosing hardware that's actually designed to run bare metal code, like the Ox64
What's the project?","attachment":null,"posted":1713869933},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790645,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790562
Or look into rtlinux. It lets the linux kernel deal with the GPU, CD card and so on and gets out of the way so your code runs on the bare metal.
But I suspect that Anon is confused by the Pi's small size. They aren't mcus. You wouldn't expect to easily bare metal a 386-based board, much less a i7 or Ryzen. A Pi is no different.","attachment":null,"posted":1713885961},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2786981
The flashing process for the AVR seems much more complicated than for STM32. I have since found out about the USBasp and will try that soon. The STM32 dev boards seem to be the easiest way to get started but, like you said, the STM32 seems much more complex and thus AVR development is suggest for newbies to embedded (I started doing Arduino a few months ago)","attachment":null,"posted":1713887292},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790655,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790562
>>2790645
Actually the pi baremetal examples look pretty simple.
Regarding that anon's question, maybe the pi has jtag ports available?","attachment":null,"posted":1713888384},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790709,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2778205
>ipa + toothbrush
Does it have to be a specific brand? I only have hazy little thing in my fridge.","attachment":null,"posted":1713893562},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790819,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there a program I can use to simulate a STM32 or some other microcontroller and connect it with virtual resistors and shit? I don't have a job anymore and I've just been looking to practice embedded applications","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713905881098812.jpg","filename":"1704518411687613.jpg"},"posted":1713905881},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790860,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790654
The STM32 has a bootloader built into it that supports serial and (for suitably equipped models) USB firmware upload. It's much easier to drop in a bootloader when you have 32 bits of address than with 16 bits.
It also has a debug mode which is more or less equivalent to what usbasp uses, and you can load flash that way too.","attachment":null,"posted":1713909543},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790819
I'm not aware of anything free but you can emulate some ARM boards (including some STM32 ones) with qemu. If you want actual hardware emulation with analog electronics I'm not aware of anything free. There are dirt cheap actual boards though.","attachment":null,"posted":1713910124},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790935,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790709
ipa as in isopropyl alcohol, not India pale ale.","attachment":null,"posted":1713922468},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790969,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790935
Just use “2-propanol” like the iupac chads and remove all ambiguity.","attachment":null,"posted":1713927864},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790562
/g/ is fucking garbage and i'm pretty sick of their faggotry, not gonna lie.
>Are you the anon from last thread?
maybe? maybe not the last thread but i've asked related questions here before.
>What's the project?
just baremetal shit really. i want to get down low as possible, and was looking for ways to play with kernel.img without it turining into computing from the 80s (swap that disk motherfucker, now swap it again!).
>>2790645
>You wouldn't expect to easily bare metal a 386-based board, much less a i7 or Ryzen. A Pi is no different.
well i'd download a car if it could. i've fucked around on cortex-ms before, although that was mostly rolling c on a donor under keil and injecting via a usb cable. doesn't look like it's that easy on a pi. i intend to use one because i have a couple lying about, and some other arm systems to fuck with once i've got a bit further. or i might go back to fucking with the cortex-m i've got.
>>2790655
>maybe the pi has jtag ports available?
don't think they do, no.
i am considering connecting the two i have, then dual booting one with raspberry pi linux and my own kernel.img, if that's possible and it might be. i figure if my shit doesn't work i can reboot it in linux and use the linux-to-linux connection to modify the test image. other than that my only other idea is become homeless in LA and get all the free money and hobo-pussy.
would you call that hobussy? fuck it, i will.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1713930407547236.jpg","filename":"1643875371377.jpg"},"posted":1713930407},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790980,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790531
>>2790974
why don't you just do a microkernel project on the pi? I haven't tried myself, there has got to be a mature project out there.
With a microkernel you still get plenty of useful OS magic like bootloaders and driver blobs, then you can also tell the OS to fuck off and just run your app until it dies","attachment":null,"posted":1713932187},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790974
>don't think they do, no.
lol i'm wrong","attachment":null,"posted":1713932471},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790994,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790980
i kinda hate linux, c and gnu. i'm trying to get away from it. just a thing you know.","attachment":null,"posted":1713935356},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790995,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790994
>i kinda hate linux, c and gnu. i'm trying to get away from it. just a thing you know
ok do the same thing with bsd and fortran","attachment":null,"posted":1713936311},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2790998,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790995
>ok do the same thing with bsd and fortran
take hormones and wear knee socks? way ahead of you there buddy.","attachment":null,"posted":1713937085},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791010,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790819
There's a site called wokwi, personally I don't like it but it might be what you want","attachment":null,"posted":1713940566},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790974
VisionFive 2.","attachment":null,"posted":1713941789},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791023,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2787735
I found the RFD900 it just what I wanted but it's a little expensive, this one have a range of 40km if someone knows a ~10km version that it's a little cheaper I will send him pics of my anus","attachment":null,"posted":1713943989},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791016
i have looked at risc-v before but i don't want to go spending more money at the moment when i already have gear at home, even if gear at home is memealicious. i intend to get into it at an indeterminate point in future, along with all the other shit i will absolutely definitely possibly maybe get around to.","attachment":null,"posted":1713950160},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791172,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790974
>well i'd download a car if it could
Same here. My point was that unlike back in the day, when you could bit-bang a floppy drive (something I did back in school), modern desktop PCs are really fucking complicated and the Pi is a closer to a modern desktop PC then a mcu.
That said, I encourage you to keep at it. It seems the Pi has a JTAG https://pinout.xyz/pinout/jtag","attachment":null,"posted":1713975702},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791172
>RPI literally hogging the term pinout
"Makers" were a mistake.","attachment":null,"posted":1713982419},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791249,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2783897
>MPU6050
why would you use an ancient and obsolete imu","attachment":null,"posted":1713988950},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791249
Because it's cheap and what more do you need for a very simple drone? Especially if you were thinking of taking apart wii controller for your IMU.","attachment":null,"posted":1713989551},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791317,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790974
>>2791172
Pi is "easy to use", but only for some definition of use.
Documentation useful to system administrators and developers is hard to find, in within all the garbage guides aimed at the lowest common denominator.
And its boot process is bespoke garbage rather than following standard arm platform specs.
>>2791210
most of these makers can't even into typing `make` to build from a makefile.","attachment":null,"posted":1713996663},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791317
>Documentation useful to system administrators and developers is hard to find, in within all the garbage guides aimed at the lowest common denominator.
yeah, i have noticed this, and it has made me consider switching to risc-v or even x86 (lol, LOL LOL LOL). the raspberry pi forums aren't the best, but you can say that about most tech-related shit. /diy/ seems to be the least g-a-y. but here we are.","attachment":null,"posted":1714009144},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791390,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791380
I am still bitter from the serial port going away from the usual pins in rpi3 (or was it 3+?), as they connected it to the bluetooth chip instead.
Getting it back needs applying a dtb "overlay" using their fickle bootloader.
This carried over to rpi4 despite that one having several UARTs in the SoC, remappable to arbitrary gpios.
Sucks that they let rpi degrade this much.","attachment":null,"posted":1714010239},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791390
it always happens with these idealogical startups (we want the kids to learning!). they get to a point where they have to fuck something up. because it's not like they're cheap little educational single boards anymore, they're turning into value added shitty lin-boxes.","attachment":null,"posted":1714020686},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791424
I gifted my niece an Arduino kit instead.
As far as SBCs, I have moved on to RISC-V, not even bothering with the ARM ones again.","attachment":null,"posted":1714020984},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791444,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791425
What's RISC-V like for SBCs, and what do you do with them? Specifically, do you use linux, an RTOS, or bare metal? And do you require the GPIOs? For Linux stuff with existing software (and probably not using the GPIOs) then the Raspberry Pi boards seem to be the most compatible things out there. But if you're interfacing with the GPIOs with your own code, especially without an OS, existing software doesn't matter as much as well designed hardware.","attachment":null,"posted":1714025320},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791677,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"USE ZEPHYR RTOS","attachment":null,"posted":1714084833},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791681,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If an eeprom has been locked but it doesn't have a lock fuse.. Is there anyway to interface with it to grab the program like using a debugger in circuit? I've seen russian services for like $500 that can pull the program.","attachment":null,"posted":1714086449},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791681
Internal or external EEPROM? If it's external then you can just (partially) desolder it and scan through all its addresses. If it's inside an MCU then you'd probably have to use those janky hardware hacking techniques of strobing power during startup with just the right timing to bypass certain checks. Well even if you can extract the memory, converting it into human readable content may not be easy. Worst case it's encrypted.","attachment":null,"posted":1714093124},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791760,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791444
I run Linux (Arch Linux) just to play with Linux on RISC-V.
But there is fun on baremetal (assembly, uploaded and run via u-boot), RTOS (nuttx specifically) as well as alternative OS kernels, too.
atm haiku and serenityOS are working on their RISC-V ports. Haiku got their system with full GUI running months ago.","attachment":null,"posted":1714098812},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791780,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791760
Does risc-v architecture have a corresponding gpu or something?
Apparently a rasberry pi “boots into the gpu” so we don’t even need arm cpus anymore. Apparently.","attachment":null,"posted":1714104812},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791827,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790860
what are the upsides of using that instead of just sticking to tarduino?
is picrel any good?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714121428725961.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714121428},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791834,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791827
STM32s are definitely more powerful than 8-bit AVRs. Though the word "arduino" no longer just refers to 8-bit AVRs, they've released official boards with Renesas somethings and Microchip SAMD-series MCUs on them. The important thing about STM32s is they're used heavily in industry, and they have a very wide variety of chips running effectively the same architecture. Once you've learnt to program them efficiently, you can find an MCU for basically any project you want. The bad thing though is the boards from alibay are often fake. See:
https://github.com/keirf/Greaseweazle/wiki/STM32-Fakes
You also may not need the extra power of the STM32. Personally I've barely ever never needed more power than an ATtiny can provide. I bought a bunch of CH32V003s and CH32V203s just to mess about with though, they're neat chips.","attachment":null,"posted":1714127004},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2791963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm trying to connect arduino to a motor controller via uart. the controller is 3.3v, but 5v tolerant.
sending commands to the controller works great, without any issues.
receiving commands does not work. Serial.available() always returns 0.
I tried looking at the rx and tx lines with a logic analyzer. when i have everything connected, tx from arduino to rx on controller works fine, i can decode the commands sent. the rx line on arduino always stays high though. if I disconnect the rx line from arduino and look at tx from controller, the line works fine then (i receive the response im expecting).
Why does the signal (response) disappear when i connect everything? is there something holding arduino rx high?
Also, the rx led on arduino does flash when im expecting a response, but logic analyzer and arduino does not see anything. Do i need to rip off the ch340 chip? is 3.3v not enough to register?","attachment":null,"posted":1714158961},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792012,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791780
>“boots into the gpu” so we don’t even need arm cpus anymore.
for whatever reason the gpu boots first but then hands over to the cpu. so you still need the cpu.","attachment":null,"posted":1714169418},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792051,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792012
Thanks. Sometimes i wonder if those PC GPU cards have more power than the processors nowadays, lol.
I remember getting my first laser printer in the 90s and i read the specs and was disheartened to learn it was a powerpc processor way more powerful than my actual PC that was driving it through the centronics parallel port.","attachment":null,"posted":1714175522},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791963
You can’t use the Rx and Tx lines for UART, they’re already tied to the CH340 and UART doesn’t work as a bus like I2C does. Set the UART to alternate pins instead.","attachment":null,"posted":1714191453},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792172,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792051
>Thanks. Sometimes i wonder if those PC GPU cards have more power than the processors nowadays, lol.
i think a lot of them do, but it's a different sort of compute power. my understanding is that gpus are designed effectively as matrix calculators. so the circuitry is optimized for i guess linear algebra or vector calculus or fucking whatever, as this is important for graphics. turns out it's also important for number crunching in data centers and artificial intelligence, or as i have started to call it, advanced interpolation, but that's a copy pasta for another time. server side and shit they don't do graphics and don't have video output of any sort, they just crunch numbers. gpu seems to be a historical anachronism kept around just because. fucking nerds.
>I remember getting my first laser printer in the 90s and i read the specs and was disheartened to learn it was a powerpc processor way more powerful than my actual PC that was driving it through the centronics parallel port.
dude that's fucking nuts. every time you print something it's just sitting there, quietly judging you.","attachment":null,"posted":1714205009},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792147
thank you.
i tried to run software serial on other pins and it works fine now.
just a thought: if i want to use hw serial on pins D0 and D1, can i just remove the CH340 chip? i can still program the arduino via icsp using another one as isp, correct?","attachment":null,"posted":1714213989},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792217
Yeah desoldering it would work. Though at that point you might as well be using an Arduino Mini instead. Bootloaders were a mistake.","attachment":null,"posted":1714214899},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790994
>I want to do baremetal programming
>kind hate c
this is incomprehensible, fix your shit or get the fuck out","attachment":null,"posted":1714281348},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792642
Maybe he really just wants to program in ASM?","attachment":null,"posted":1714282667},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2792652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792649
Virtually everybody who programs in C long enough can also do ASM.
Ever heard of software bugs? Well, it’s a thing.
You break into the monitor, it’s all assembly. You can’t avoid it in the real world.
> i only use source level debuggers
Go back to designing web pages and python.","attachment":null,"posted":1714283331},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793623,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"has anyone built a custom arduino board per project, i.e. instead of using a standard arduino and making a bunch of ugly connections, make a PCB with an STM32 chip onboard and maybe FT232 and flash an Arduino bootloader into it and it basically becomes arduino? Then route only the connections you need and add other parts as needed for the project. Or use an external FT232 chip since it would be a waste to use a dedicated FT232 per project.","attachment":null,"posted":1714446430},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793626,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"can someone tell me why the following code gives me way less than 1 stepper revolution per second?
I have a simple setup,
-Arduino Uno
-Nema 17 Stepper motor (200 step revolution) pt num STP-MTRL-14034
-DM422E stepping drive (minimum 400 step/rev, the current setting)
The low/High change is quick enough for 400 cycles a second. Only it takes more like 3-5 seconds for a full rev, with no physical load on the motor, an ample 24vdc power supply.
These are sinking outputs if it matters (so only the PUL needs to go LOW for a step, the others are already LOW)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714446947537252.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-04-29 211139.png"},"posted":1714446947},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793627,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793626
NVM, i'm retarded.
The serial print was the issue, low baud rate. but either way fucks up the code timing","attachment":null,"posted":1714447064},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793669,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792642
>this is incomprehensible, fix your shit or get the fuck out
you're a fag, you get the fuck out.
>>2792649
basically yeah. thinking about hex just because.
>>2792652
>i'm a huge faggot, please rape my face
yeah dude we know. thanks for your contributions but no one asked and no gives a fuck about your precious bullshit so 'fix your shit' and get the fuck out you sperglord motherfucker.","attachment":null,"posted":1714459319},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793672,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2790709
>I only have hazy little thing in my fridge.
KEK","attachment":null,"posted":1714461707},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793682,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793626
>>2793627
[code]
#include <util/delay.h>
void gUARTWrite(unsigned char iByte) {
while (!(UCSR0A & 0x20));
UDR0 = iByte;
}
int main(void) {
UBRR0L = 0x1;
UCSR0B = 0x8;
UCSR0C = 0x6;
DDRB |= 0x8;
while (0x1) {
gUARTWrite((PORTB ^= 0x8) ? '1' : '0');
gUARTWrite('\\n');
_delay_us(1250);
}
return 0x0;
}
[/code]
Are code tags supported here?
Had to setup my oscilloscope for something, so I thought I'd just bang it out.
You need to adjust the 1250 delay by a fixed value, the entire loop and port toggle and everything runs in definite time, i.e. the same number of cycles everytime, meaning to get a perfect 1250 us delay, you need to adjust it down til the physical output matches.
Also, the output signal is in a perfect 50/50 duty cycle using a toggle, turning off and on and looping back is not a perfect 50/50 cycle, because the jump instruction back to the beginning of the loop biases the duty cycle towards the last setting, i.e. low in your application.
Also, I tested it on a Nano, but it should work just the same on an UNO.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714465717145422.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714465717},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793682
*Oh yeah, 500K baud rate for serial comms.
*And also the adjustment of the fixed delay value may even need to be positive (or may even miraculously negate itself) as the 16 Mhz CPU clock cycle often is too fast or too slow to a factual 16 Mhz cycle.
Serial seems to work, but of course the entire console gets flooded.","attachment":null,"posted":1714466351},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793694,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey /mcg/ didn't see a 3d printer thread so figured I'd ask here.
I'm going to be building an FDM printer. Going to be using an Adafruit Grand Central M4 Express (SAMD51 @ 120mhz) as the controller, and paired up with a RADDS v1.6 board, and 3x stepper expansion. Working on setting up Marlin for this, as the Grand Central isn't 100% pin-for-pin identical to the Arduino Due, and the current Marlin source code assumes use of the Grand Central with RAMPS which isn't identical to RADDS. Drivers will be TMC2226 in standalone mode, as I doubt I'll ever need spread-cycle.
My question is what board to choose for running octoprint. I don't plan on using a webcam, so it doesn't need to be stellar in terms of processing power.
Things I've considered:
>Beaglebone Black
Expensive for what it is, classic, tons of documentation, comes with Debian, guide for installing gentoo
>Mangopi MQ Pro
RISC-V, cheap (and cheap for what it is), extremely power efficient, potentially not powerful enough to do anything but run the octoprint server, good gentoo installation guide
>La\\Le Frite\\Potato\\SweetPotato
Probably the easiest option, but kinda the most boring. It would work, but there would be little to no tinkering.
What SBC in the <$75 price range would you all go with?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714468085056473.jpg","filename":"4064-03.jpg"},"posted":1714468085},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793708,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793623
Yeah, sorta. I frequently solder ATmegas and ATtinies into custom PCBs, especially tiny13s and tiny1614s. But I didn't go out of my way to use an ICSP programmer to put a bootloader onto them so I could use a CH340 to program them, because that would be stupid when I could just use the ICSP programmer directly. Bootloaders are a waste of space. The whole point of dev-boards is to prototype a circuit that you'll later convert into a PCB, not having ICSP being the default method of programming is real stupid, especially since we've got ourselves into a wonko world where not being able to debug or even read back static memory is somehow the norm. Soldering shit to a dev-board is truly poverty-core.
>FT232
lmao, take the WCH pill.
>>2793626
Use a constantly running hardware timer instead of delays, that way you can get the timing properly synchronised to your clock without having to worry about other code taking up time. Though you should probably use interrupts anyhow. If you write only a single character to serial it should take only a few clock cycles, your code won't have to wait for it to get sent, though knowing the arduino library's code quality it might still do so. I'm assuming it doesn't have buffer registers for multiple characters, idk I barely ever use UART on AVR.
>>2793685
Why not put the serial comms on an incrementing variable (like the aforementioned timer) so it only writes data every X full cycles?
>>2793694
Have you considered a 2nd hand android phone? That comes with the touch screen you'll probably want for interfacing with the printer.
also rip 3dpg lmao","attachment":null,"posted":1714471420},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793716,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793708
>Why not put the serial comms on an incrementing variable (like the aforementioned timer) so it only writes data every X full cycles?
Not my code, just reimplemented what the anon I replied to posted.
Maybe an application he's using requires the serial comms, idk.
>constantly running hardware timer instead of delays
_delay_us() is an AVR provided function that requires compile-time knowledge of the delay value, because it achieves the delay by precisely calculating cycle times of loops of nops.
I get what you mean, but *you* can use _delay_us() if the MCU ain't doing much else.
>you should probably use interrupts anyhow
Eh, depends again on what else the MCU needs to do.
For just switching on/off in at delays that are all known in compile time, interrupts might be a bit overkill.
>your code won't have to wait for it to get sent
You load a byte into UDR0 and the MCU does the rest (provided you've correctly set up the UART interface).
Then you poll UCSR0A & 0x20, if the bit is set, it's busy, otherwise you can load the next byte.
Ergo, code blocking because of serial communication is a programmer's choice, not a limitation.
>I'm assuming it doesn't have buffer registers for multiple characters
No, just the one, like I outlined above.
Inbound packets are also read from UDR0, and in this direction, the MCU buffers one or two additional bytes, can't remember.","attachment":null,"posted":1714473082},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793716
>*you* can use _delay_us() if the MCU ain't doing much else.
Not if you want to time the motor accurately. The issue isn't the lost clock cycles in terms of stuff the MCU could be doing, it's the fact you're adding the delay function to the delay of all the other stuff you've got in the loop. You're assuming the microsecond delay function's delay is significantly greater than the delay from all that other stuff, but obviously that's a wrong assumption to make. Yeah you could take that into account and decrease the delay accordingly (up to a point) but it's just a less robust and worse programmed solution compared to using a hardware timer. Everything uses hardware timers, this anon should learn to use them properly.
>interrupts might be a bit overkill
A lot of things use interrupts too (e.g. ADC code), this anon should learn to use them properly too.
>code blocking because of serial communication is a programmer's choice, not a limitation
If you're given that choice, yes. But you don't get that choice when you say 'serialWrite("High");' instead of writing the registers directly. That waiting and polling is filled with noops when you use the tarduino lib. A robust code would have interrupts on the serial writing too so you can do other stuff while the bytes send, but I think that's overkill if the baud rate is sufficiently high. Just writing a single character is a quick way of avoiding the problem regardless of baud, assuming it doesn't noop away the time spent polling until the final character is finished sending. Maybe it does do that, since it could make receiving serial comms more reliable.
If the AVRs had DMA then you wouldn't have to worry about it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714473886},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793722,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793719
>The issue isn't the lost clock cycles in terms of stuff the MCU could be doing, it's the fact you're adding the delay function to the delay of all the other stuff you've got in the loop.
This code >>2793682 runs exactly switches exactly at 399.5 Hz on my Nano.
Technically, using the serial interface introduces the unknown factor, yes, you're not wrong there.
But remove that all the serial and it will switch the port EXACTLY the same period every single time around.
There's nothing that could block it then.
>this anon should learn to use them properly too.
Not wrong, but I believe it's more important for anon to start coding AVR chips with real AVR code and not use the Arduino libs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714474610},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793719
>it's the fact you're adding the delay function to the delay of all the other stuff you've got in the loop
Already addressed here, by the way >>2793682:
>You need to adjust the 1250 delay by a fixed value, the entire loop and port toggle and everything runs in definite time, i.e. the same number of cycles everytime, meaning to get a perfect 1250 us delay, you need to adjust it down til the physical output matches.
Technically, you can calculate it by looking at the assembly instructions and adding up all the cycle times and then deduct that, but then you're not accounting for the resonator tolerances, so manually adjusting with oscilloscope feedback is the most reliable way.","attachment":null,"posted":1714474801},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793728,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793708
Nah, I do everything through the octoprint server, and if I do need to deal with directly touching the machine, then I'd use the RADDS version of the RepRap Discount Display.","attachment":null,"posted":1714475875},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793797,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793708
I don't know anything about ATmegas but I make my own custom PCBs with bare STM32 chips, no bootloaders, just program them directly via JTAG. I am helping an Arduino user who prefers the easy of use of Arduino IDE and programming via bootloader. I just want to show how nice the end project will look when everything is done on a single PCB, no ugly interconnects and pin heads. So my plan is to arduinize a generic STMF32F1 chip and essentially make a Blue pill arduino board. If I understand it correctly, I won't need any USB to serial converter chip like FT232 or whatever. My understanding is I will need to load the STM32 arduino bootloader via JTAG and then switch booting to bootloader and the chip should be ready to be programmed via USB in the standard arduino IDE.","attachment":null,"posted":1714493679},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793805,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793708
>lmao, take the WCH pill.
what is so lmao about it? Your CH340 is probably a chinese fake and it is cheaper and is used on cheap chinese clones and some people report reliability problems. Other than that there is literally no difference.","attachment":null,"posted":1714494708},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793892,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793797
I don't know about STM32 chips specifically so the following could be wrong. The Arduino IDE expects to use a COM port for programming. All the Arduino boards of have USB to serial and talk to the PC via serial.","attachment":null,"posted":1714507916},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793722
>Not wrong, but I believe it's more important for anon to start coding AVR chips with real AVR code and not use the Arduino libs.
I'd agree with that.
>>2793805
CH340s aren't "chinese fakes" because they're original chips made in china in the first place. The specs aren't brilliant but they're way cheaper than FT232s and usually good enough. FT232s have a bunch of other advanced features that you just don't need to pay for. WCH also make some other interesting original chips, like some native USB 8-bit microcontrollers, and now also some 32-bit RISC-V microcontrollers. For these RISC-V chips, they sell a kit on aliexpress with a USB programmer dongle, a dev-board, and a bunch of MCU ICs in a bag, just like it should be.
>>2793892
The STM32 has native USB. My assumption is that the bootloader configures the USB port to act as a virtual USB-to-serial device.","attachment":null,"posted":1714510624},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793914
>The STM32 has native USB. My assumption is that the bootloader configures the USB port to act as a virtual USB-to-serial device.
You'd have to read the code to confirm that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714511651},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793968,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Have you ever just wanted to choose the most esoteric and obscure MCU for a work project so that you have more job security? I've been tasked with designing an internal prototype as an intern. I'm supposed to design the PCB and also write firmware, and two MechE students are designing the enclosure and doing some simulations. The company is a startup and run by MBAs. I want to get hired again after graduation.","attachment":null,"posted":1714517166},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793968
You kinda have to actually have a job before you can pull a stunt like that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714518889},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793974
I'm getting paid minimum wage. This company is a complete clusterfuck","attachment":null,"posted":1714519117},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2793988,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793968
You're not going to get a big enough raise from that company, so it's better to pick something popular to help you get a job elsewhere.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714520159223482.jpg","filename":"a22.jpg"},"posted":1714520159},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794020,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793968
>both PCB and firmware
>for minimum wage
Wow.","attachment":null,"posted":1714524943},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793968
> designing the enclosure: 2x
> MBAs: at least 2x
You, of course, realize that you’re doing all the work, eh?
The MBAs are taught to extract all the money—nay… more than all the money (they will put the company in debt to themselves) from the company.
This is a one-way ticket to nowhere’sville.","attachment":null,"posted":1714525106},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794030,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793914
>>2793925
> bootloader configures the USB port to act as a virtual USB-to-serial device.
What do you mean by that?
My understanding is that the bootloader that is running on the microcontroller uses a USB peripheral instead of UART, and listens on a USB port to receive program code and flash it into the flash memory. There is also a driver on the PC side so that the microcontroller is accessible as a virtual COM port. That driver is similar to the ones that come with an FT232 or CH340. It is very similar except there is no extra chip to convert USB to serial, since USB packets are sent directly from PC to the USB peripheral on the microcontroller.
So the way I understand it, in a standard Arduino set-up with a UART based bootloader, there are two conversions when uploading a sketch: Serial to USB (in Arduino IDE, when writing to a virtual COM port, a FT232/CH340 driver converts it to USB packets) and USB to UART RX/TX(electrical signalling on theFT232/CH340 chip). But with Blue pill you use a USB based bootloader so the second conversion is not necessary: ArduinoIDE opens and writes to a virtual COM port and the Blue pill PC driver converts serial COM data to USB packets and they are received directly by the Blue pill bootloader on the uC.","attachment":null,"posted":1714527292},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793925
We’ll either way it’s acting as some sort of USB device, since bluepills both don’t have a usb serial IC and can be programmed via USB. Maybe they just present as a custom usb device that isn’t compliant with any particular usb class. A similar thing is done with an arduino pro micro, or any other dev-board that has native USB (and doesn’t just have two USB ports). If I recall the ESP32-S3 can be programmed via its USB port without needing a bootloader, but there are problems with getting it to reset afterwards or something along those lines. Maybe they fixed that in the C6, I doubt it though.
Take me back to the days where computer parallel ports could be used as GPIOs for programming an MCU directly.
>>2793968
No, but going for extremely cheap Chinese MCUs with shitty documentation and an esoteric tool chain has been tempting. But it does mean more work for you if you're not familiar with the chips in the first place. If your boss doesn’t specify which architecture at the very least, they shouldn’t come complaining when you use something z80 derived.
>>2794030
How the MCU receives the data isn’t that important, it’s some form of serial data packets either way (usb = universal serial bus), the difference is in how the MCU is seen by the computer when you plug it in. If it’s just a generic data standard that your ide uses custom drivers for then it’s less portable compared to using an existing standard like USB-serial, which has common drivers available. The arduino ide in particular is designed to connect to a serial port and not doing so is a bit more involved. Though I guess it could instead present as a STlinkV2, that could be handy.","attachment":null,"posted":1714527979},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794033
Yes, that's what I am saying. ArduinoIDE can only program arduino via a virtual COM port. And all the difference is how this virtual COM port is created. FT232 comes with VSP drivers .while the bootloader for STM32 probably configures USB as CDC and since CDC is supported natively by windows, no special driver is necessary but I am not sure.
>How the MCU receives the data isn’t that important,
That's hugely important but I guess you may mean that it is not important if we are talking about the PC side of things. My point is it's brilliant that there is a USB based bootloader so there is no need to use a USB to UART chip and it seems to be relatively straightforward to configure ArduinoIDE for this kind of setup. But I haven't tried it yet.","attachment":null,"posted":1714528421},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794056,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794035
>ArduinoIDE can only program arduino via a virtual COM port
Wrong, you can program an arduino by using the “upload with programmer” option that uses its own usb code, which is all I ever do now. I’m doing that with a USBasp or serialUPDI dongle, but in principle you could build such a programmer into your dev-board, or even make the native usb MCU present as a programmer dongle directly. AVRdude, which the ide uses for programming, can use all sorts of programming methods, including official PICkits.
The arduino hardware and software system was designed poorly, shoulda used no bootloaders with a programmer built into the dev-board. Somehow old style arduino unos use an atmega to act as a usb interface directly, but instead of using it as a proper ICSP programmer with debugging support they just programmed it into a glorified usb to serial IC instead. They also used socketed atmega chips, but require a bootloader on them so you can’t just buy fresh avr chips and use them without having to own an icsp programmer anyhow. Arduino brainrot was there from the start.","attachment":null,"posted":1714533229},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784419
the noise he must be getting from these wires must be unreal, i doubt whatever he built actually works","attachment":null,"posted":1714566508},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794056
So Arduino without a bootloader is basically an alternative toolchain + IDE + HAL drivers / SDK. Why even bother then. I guess it provides an extra layer of abstraction around the HAL drivers which it still includes and uses to build code for a specific platform such as STM32. Why not use STM32Cube then. Probably the most important difference is it eliminates the need for an expensive debugging probe if you don't care about debugging on the target. I know newer arduino IDE has debugging options using SEGGER J-Link/ST-Link and such but again, why bother? You could just use STM32CubeIDE, or Keil, or Eclipse, or whatever. Seems like the Arduino Platform is stepping into the professional market territory while still providing easy options for the beginners.","attachment":null,"posted":1714576297},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794056
>shoulda used no bootloaders with a programmer built into the dev-board.
Like I said I don't know anything about Atmegas or PICs so I don't know what you mean by USBasp or any of those dongles. I can only speak for STM32 and it would be a really expensive board to include both STM32 and an ARM debugger such as a Segger J-link onboard. STM32 eval boards have this setup and they are not cheap and you'd still need to configure your dev environment with additional Segger drivers or ST-Link drivers if you choose to use it and potentially a 3rd party GDBServer. That would be too complicated for a beginner. It was perfectly reasonable to create a board with a cheap 8-bit MCU with an UART based bootloader and a USB to serial converter chip onboard and with an easy-to-use IDE since Arduino targeted absolute beginners. But now it sounds like they need to grow and expand their market to more experienced users so they offer all kinds of advanced options while maintaining the least common denominator.","attachment":null,"posted":1714576932},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794275,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794195
this is funny, because i build prototypes like picrel all the time and they work perfectly fine even at 175Mhz with several I2C/SPI peripherals. And that japanese video is a 8-bit MCU running at 8Mhz tops. Of course it is going to work just fine. It is so funny when PCB gurus on youtube lecture people about this whole transmission line theory, current return paths at high freq, proper grounding, and how to properly stack power and ground planes for 4-layer boards and such, while simple prototypes with messy wires all over the place work just fine. Of course proper PCBs are important for long term reliability, but to say that nothing is going to work is not true.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714578659636666.jpg","filename":"IMG_4567.jpg"},"posted":1714578659},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794353,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794275
Please rewire that bird’s nest.
PCBs also tend to make bigger capacitors so some things actually work better as point-to-point, but that’s a complicated topic.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714589819068796.jpg","filename":"8BFEAC15-A69C-4087-A433-20C77F021183.jpg"},"posted":1714589819},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794964,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Coming from STM32 dev tools and IDEs, I finally installed Arduino like a cool kid that I always wanted to be. What an interesting experience. The IDE is kindergarten level simple. Basically a couple of buttons. Apparently there's no concept of projects and all code is meant to be put in one single file. Just perfect for blinking an LED. I just wanted to explore bootloading options and it is a mess. There is a Maple derived bootloader that comes with a custom driver which registers a custom USB device. Then there is also a HID bootloader that doesn't need a driver. But the support is broken in the new arduino IDE 2.x. It registers itself as a HID device and the first upload is done without picking a COM port. And then through some magic it creates a USB CDC COM port and becomes visible as a virtual COMx device instead of a HID device. I know very little about that but the problem is old Arduino IDE 1.x did not require picking a COM port, and so the first upload worked fine. But 2.x bails out with "no COM port selected" error. One option is to select a random COM port like COM1. Long story short, stm32duino sounds like a niche community. Most people who work with STM32 chips either use a proper dev environment for adults, or use a programmer/debugging probe like ST-LINK to program their STM32 based arduinos over SWD. Those custom boot loaders are a fucking mess. Imagine the new IDE "feature" broke it and nobody cares and nobody is fixing it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714708424},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2794992,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794964
Arduino everything and bootloaders were a mistake.","attachment":null,"posted":1714718499},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2795042,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794964
>the most important part when devlets change hardware is the change of the devlet-mandated vendor-specific IDE
Kill yourself.","attachment":null,"posted":1714733759},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2795129,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794964
> bootloader broken, nobody cares
I’ve seen this before. They poison the open version right before they re-monitize it which will either be a paid/fixed version, subscription that works for a while, or some other novel mba intern idea.
Same thing happens with linux, qemu, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1714755750},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2795193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795129
The funny part is they fixed it (or at least attempted to fix it) in the arduino-cli command line client. I;ve seen a PR that vaguely mentions lifting the requirement to select a port. But not in the UI version. Very strange. It just feels like there's not enough demand to pressure them into fixing it. It is possible that very few people even care about these exotic home made bootloaders. It is definitely not the mainstream approach. It is amazing how much some people prefer the "convenience" of a one click upload with no special hardware over the flexibility of using a debug probe that requires a little bit of configuration.","attachment":null,"posted":1714767859},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2795217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795193
There's also price and learning curve.","attachment":null,"posted":1714773672},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2795280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795193
The thing is, if you’re going out of your way to use a debug probe, you’re probably savvy enough to not be using the Arduino IDE. At the very least use PlatformIO or vendor IDEs. PlatformIO kinda runs on Arduino code itself for some hardware, so beware. Better is to use (community made, FOSS, platform agnostic) command line tools and a text editor of your choice. They often support 3rd party programming tools, which is good because I’m not buying a fucking Atmel Dragon. More of a pain to get initially set up, but once your workflow is established it’s much more convenient to have all the configs already in your makefile. It’s probably also better for using other languages, like Rust.","attachment":null,"posted":1714788854},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793805
>>2793708
FT232 are overpriced AF.
CH340 are literal shit that can't tolerate the slightest clock drift.
CP2104 / CP2102N is where it's at. Cheap and actually decent.
>>2794353
Sockets, FFS.
>>2794964
Use avr-libc or assembly outright.
Arduino SDK/IDE is only good for trivial/educative.
Better yet, ditch 8bit legacy and embrace RISC-V, with CH32V or ESP32C.","attachment":null,"posted":1714986741},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796223,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796210
The chinks make knockoff FT232s for cheaper than those CP210x chips:
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/USB-Converters_JSMSEMI-FT232BL-JSM_C7436405.html
I wonder what they're like? The datasheet is in chinese jpegs, so it's enormous and can't be translated without ocr. Can't see if it uses the FTDI drivers, I'd guess so but who knows.","attachment":null,"posted":1714993090},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796309,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796223
> unknown shit is even worse than known shit.
Those are the shit that shit shits.
FTDI is probably already working on bricking them, software updates for FTDI drivers should be disabled permanently. The main problem that made the chinese clones shit was actually FTDI.
The CP210x likker guy in >>2796210 is right, use the SILabs versions, they’re as based as Texas Instruments.","attachment":null,"posted":1715010686},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796644,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there anything like these buzzers but they make a pleasant sound instead?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715080941764539.png","filename":"22384160.png"},"posted":1715080941},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796711,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796644
Buzzers are just a membrane bouncing back and fourth. As such, it's physically impossible for the sound to be pleasant. What application do you need it for?","attachment":null,"posted":1715099872},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796644
They have a built-in square-ish oscillator, of course they sound awful. If you want something that sounds better, get a piezo disc and feed it a nicer waveform from a DAC. You might be fine with just ~4 bits of R2R from spare outputs on your micro, though either way you'll need a buffer (and maybe a higher voltage amplifier or a transformer) to drive the disc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715116920},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796800,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796644
Try put the outlet through a tubing or trumpet?","attachment":null,"posted":1715118380},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796816,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796800
>>2796784
>>2796711
I mean I'm looking for a different component, not trying to make these sound good.
it's to alert people when an automation device is finished and needs human intervention, but I don't want to go as far as programming a speaker and audio file.","attachment":null,"posted":1715120644},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796821,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796816
>I mean I'm looking for a different component, not trying to make these sound good.
They don't exist. The least ear piercing I've heard is pic related, but even then it sounds like a pathetic electrical bleating. No datasheet.
>programming a speaker and audio file
It's probably fine if you just output a square wave directly from a timer's compare output, then use a couple of passive filter stages to make it rounder, before amplifying it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715121490098742.png","filename":"mini-buzzer.png"},"posted":1715121490},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796926,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796711
as hi fidelity monitors","attachment":null,"posted":1715140561},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796939,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796711
Marketing problem. Just call them
>planar magnetic
And then you can sell them as expensive headphones.","attachment":null,"posted":1715143486},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796946,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796784
>feed it a nicer waveform from a DAC.
you dont need to do any of that shit, just find a nicer frequency so it sounds more like a beep than a buzz. a uC will just drive a little piezo.","attachment":null,"posted":1715144498},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796954,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796644
Just buy these cards that plays music and take out the module. You can get the modules themselves even cheaper from china for the initiated.
Have you been living under a rock for 20 years?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715147276537292.jpg","filename":"CDB67994-A5A9-4E89-AD6C-FDECF4DDB14A.jpg"},"posted":1715147276},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2796984,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">be me, college dropout
>get a job at factory making fortune cookies
>long hours but have to pay rent
>have to put bullshit chinglish messages inside stale dough
>9 hours each day
>hands quickly get numb
>each message more insulting than the last
>fill up bags 50 at a time
>bag gets full, a moment of respite
>stand up, carry bag over to sealing machine
>place bag edge in and stand back
>heat presses a seal
>machine starts singing happy birthday
>every fucking hour of every fucking day
>happy fucking birthday","attachment":null,"posted":1715161991},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797045,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How viable is it to try and build a working x86 pc from scratch? What would one need to accomplish it? It's more of a /g/ question but /g/ is retarded
Preferably to run collapseos.org or Windows XP (the latter is probably very unrealistic)","attachment":null,"posted":1715178550},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797095,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i'm trying to find some code to use an arduine and a gps module as an autopilot for a fixed wing aircraft but can't find any help on google
the idea is semple, set target gps coordinate in the arduino before flight, and the arduino should be able to get to those exact coordinate, preferably in curved line
>inb4 just use an ardupilot
the cheapest one cost $70 while an arduino mini + gps module will cost less than $10","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715186118624549.jpg","filename":"Cover Image GPS Module .jpg"},"posted":1715186118},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796946
>nicer frequency
That's the problem. A single frequency is always going to sound harsh.","attachment":null,"posted":1715186766},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797102,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797045
>How viable is it to try and build a working x86 pc from scratch?
What do you mean "from scratch"? If you mean from a pile of chips, then you might be able to do it with wirewrap.","attachment":null,"posted":1715186895},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797103,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797102
I'm not talking about schizo-tier processor from scratch, more like get a bread board, order all the necessary MCUs and a cpu socket if its even possible
So yeah, from a pile of chips
Modern motherboards datasheets scare the shit out of me so I don't really know where to start","attachment":null,"posted":1715187034},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797103
It would be easy to do a 8086-era PC.
You are never going to build something with a modern CPU. Even if you go for a SOC like the Pi does, the high clock speeds mean you are going to be very susceptible to the slightest imperfection data and control buses.","attachment":null,"posted":1715188065},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797155,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796816
Car horn.","attachment":null,"posted":1715193725},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797163,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797102
I’m one of they guys who thinks the non-existence of 8086 microcontrollers is crazy given the amount of software available for it. A microcontroller doesn’t always have an external memory bus though.
Unfortunately, the best way to do it nowadays would be through an emulator on an ARM microcontroller. The chips themselves are pretty unobtainium. I have some old NEC V20s that I saved, but don’t have any of the support chips or keyboard ROMs, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715194785},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"why do some breakout boards use male pins and some others use female pin headers? male headers seem a lot more common.","attachment":null,"posted":1715195997},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797337,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Drooling retard, here.
I am not sure what I'm looking for in terms of the name. I am trying to add a new crosshair to my game. I can't see the little white one and as a console fag, I can't change the color.
What the fuck would I need to build a device that accepts the input from the PS4, adds a goddamn basic, transparent png file, and then outputs it to the HDMI port of the TV?
I keep seeing shit about the difficulty of such a thing because DHCP exists. I'd prefer not to buy some $200 FPGA just to do this, and I really don't wanna buy different colors of tape to put on my TV like some kind of gaming MacGuyver.
Thanks for any help or ideas, bros.","attachment":null,"posted":1715228160},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797352,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797337
Yeah, so this was possible on the atari 2600 and your cable TV box because you could just inject an additional analog signal into the channel 3 tuner output. At worst, you’d use a video mixer (a video op-amp) that costs 34 cents.
As you mentioned, you cannot simply inject an extra signal into a digital stream, DHCP/macrovision or no.
You can probably do it with the component out, not sure if PS4 still has that or not, but you’ll have to go down to 720p most likely.","attachment":null,"posted":1715229717},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797337
>>2797352
Me again. Have considered using some laser pointers or laser level to project it onto the TV? I assume you want some kind of guide for aiming or something.","attachment":null,"posted":1715229980},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797377,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797095
>relying on arduino code you get from online
don't do this
>autopilot for fixed wing aircraft
I think the reason they use a more powerful chip is they need to integrate the data from an IMU and combine that with corrections from GPS. GPS itself generally isn't accurate enough, though some guy did a youtube video about getting 3cm accuracy with an ESP32 so look into that. Doing those integrations on an 8-bit AVR without vector operations or hardware division sounds like a pain.
Ask /rcg/ for their suggestions, they may not understand the nitty gritty of MCU selection but they should give you a decent idea of what you're paying for when you get an ardupilot board, or other gps FC.
>>2797163
At least 8051 MCUs exist, you can probably run 8051 assembly on an x86 cpu if you squint.
>>2797175
Male pins are good for plugging into breadboards, which is important when you might need some extra passives. Female pins are better for using with male-to-male jumpers, which are generally more common than other jumpers, and is more convenient if you're just running jumpers from an uno to a module.
>>2797337
>convert hdmi to vga
>inject signal on vga lines
>convert vga back to hdmi
If you do it well it might not look terrible. Skip the conversion steps where possible, maybe your TV or console supports VGA in the first place. Composite will look worse, and I think generally has a lower maximum resolution, plus you need to generate sync signals for timing.","attachment":null,"posted":1715234338},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
guys, noob here, i need help with this usb to serial adapter, i bought bc it was isolated and you could chose the voltage level, but i do not understand the jumper on the data lines, nor what the txa pin does in this device
i need it mainly to interface with a victron solar charger, and will also be used as a usb to serial generic cable.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715262802052129.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-09 at 15-45-06 4.03€ FT232 Serial port module USB to TTL USB to serial port Magnetic isolation FT232RL Photoelectric isolation - AliExpress.png"},"posted":1715262802},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797498,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797337
Can't you just use a grease pencil?","attachment":null,"posted":1715271387},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797509,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797455
>4chan ate my response
Fuck you 4chan. Short version again.
>i do not understand the jumper on the data lines
Loopback?
>nor what the txa pin does
Look at datasheet.","attachment":null,"posted":1715272445},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797597,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797509
Not him, but there isn't a TXA pin in the FT232 datasheet. I'd guess it inverts the RX and TX pins when you tie it to ground, but it could be a custom programmed pin for anything really. It could also be a onewire pin that combines RX and TX with that diode, there's only four pins on each side of the opto after all.","attachment":null,"posted":1715288514},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797509
>>2797597
me again, datasheet is here https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/download/166553/AD/ADUM3201ARZ.html , which is just an isolator for a serial signal. but now i see that the tx is connected to the txa through the t4 diode that can be seen bellow right in the image, other than that is the exact pinout of the isolator chip
why would i need to get an output pin in an isolator through an optional diode?
and why the data jumper?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715289394821507.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-09 at 23-15-46 ADUM3200 AD Alldatasheet - ADUM3200.PDF.png"},"posted":1715289394},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797653,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797602
If the jumper was for combining RX with the TX+diode node, and there was a pullup, then it could be for onewire. But that doesn't seem to be the case. Tying RX to TX though, as the other anon said, is probably to get loopback. That way you can be sure your serial hardware is working, since each signal you send gets received. Assuming your serial console can do full duplex that is.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715296048820939.png","filename":"blog002-008-3699029933.png"},"posted":1715296048},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797813,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797602
>>2797653
If it's set up like this it should be for updi programming, I've seen it either wired through a diode or a resistor","attachment":null,"posted":1715329153},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797872,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797653
>>2797813
i guess it makes sense thanks, the jumper is not in the correct place but that could mean that chang is clueless","attachment":null,"posted":1715346399},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If a processor has multiple SPI controllers, does that mean that it can use them concurrently? Or can only one of them send out data at a time? Specicially talking about the RK3308","attachment":null,"posted":1715349577},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797896,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797893
I don't know your chip, but normally yes. Make sure you actually have the pins and the DMA channels to use them. If it's ok to be slow, you can bit-bang it with any GPIO to get even more SPI ports, or multiplex them by using multiple CS lines.","attachment":null,"posted":1715350027},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2797967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2782422
There's no monitor program built into the pi so whatever you use to program it will determine how you can hook it up.
Uboot has IP support so if you can boot the pi into that maybe load your images over tftp.","attachment":null,"posted":1715360493},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2798107,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797813
Oh yeah, 1-Wire defines whether a bit is 1 or 0 based on pulse width, while UART is just high or low. It's better for using the comms line for power at the same time, I suppose.
UPDI and DebugWire are the same though, wonder why we never got software support for programming the older MCUs via DebugWire with a USB-serial dongle?","attachment":null,"posted":1715381438},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2798422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pico has vin range of 1.8v to 5.5v. So I can use 2 or 3 NiMH batteries. Will it draw more amper if I use 2 batteries instead of 3 and has shorter battery span?","attachment":null,"posted":1715455451},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2798439,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798107
> one-wire uses pulse width
Huh, that’s fascinating. Brilliant idea. I wonder if they use passive filter and can crank it up to RF frequencies, and you wouldn’t even necessarily need a ground lead in common. In fact, if you made an antenna, you’d have “0-wire”","attachment":null,"posted":1715457436},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2798482,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798439
I looked into using a single wire for transmitting information at high frequencies, don't do it. It's objectively worse than using no wires. Not having a return loop just means you've got a really long antenna, the emission pattern of which is everywhere except your target. All your data would be transmitted via the electric field alone, which falls off far faster than the E+M field of a proper radio transmitter.","attachment":null,"posted":1715463170},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2798488,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798482
> no wires
I could never figure out why we don’t use IR more. You just put a led/photodiode (if you need bidi) on the dev board and point it. Dirt cheap. Cheaper than pin headers. Should be able to do into the multi GHz, although, at that point, you might not want, literally, “infra red” but rathe one of those near UV LEDs at GHz speeds. Kind of like fiber optics, sans fiber.
I think most of the microcontrollers that have built-in IR channels are mostly for “remote control” class service though. But, for run-of-the-mill low-end microcontrollers with, like 2kB of flash, programming it on IR would be totally fine.
I think I’m onto something here.
> inb4 toslink","attachment":null,"posted":1715464370},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">search "ESP32" on youtube, hoping to find a cool project
>it's all brown people showing stock footage
it's over.","attachment":null,"posted":1715578862},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799098,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799070
That's because the barrier-to-entry is really low, thanks to ESPhome and Arduino, the turd worlder sees an opportunity to make 5 dollars in ad revenue from 5 hours of work, that's weeks of rice. Searching for anything other than vague ideas on YouTube is a bad idea in the first place, unless you already know a specific channel to look at. Maybe look for specific projects with them instead of mass market introductory videos, or look for specific models like the ESP32C6.","attachment":null,"posted":1715590929},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799104,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I would like to make a portable music player and I would like an MCU that is compatible with the current esp32 ones, what do you recommend?","attachment":null,"posted":1715591859},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799098
I picked an ESP32 just to complete the minimum price for free shipping. That's why I was vaguely searching for "ESP32" instead of more concrete ideas.
But hey, at least I found this thumbnail which made me kek.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715592724917084.jpg","filename":"gm.jpg"},"posted":1715592724},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799104
>an MCU that is compatible with the current esp32 ones
You want an MCU that's compatible with ESP32 MP3 player modules? Or MP3 player projects/tutorials? Or what? MCU refers to the ESP32 itself, FYI.
If you get one of those SD-card MP3 modules (or the ICs found on them) you can use that with a very minimal MCU, be it an ATtiny or whatever. If you want to use bluetooth and wifi then I guess there's a point to using an ESP32, it can probably be programmed to stream audio to bluetooth headphones, plus it has other handy features like DMA and built-in SD card interfacing hardware and I2S output. It also probably has the power to decode MP3s into an audio bitstream live, but I'm not certain of that, or of its ability to decode lossless formats, or anything other than .wav. The ESP32 S3, C3, and C6 have bluetooth 5.0, which is better for some reason. The S3 and C6 have native USB, which you could use for more easily configuring or loading music. The C3 and C6 are RISC-V, which is a different architecture to the older series, which may make a difference for trying to port an existing project. You should write it yourself though, it makes debugging actually a reasonable suggestion.
Then, assuming you're not designing a minimalistic custom PCB (which is an option if space is a major constraint), you'll probably want to get the ESP32 on some sort of module. You can either go for the ESP32 WROOM-32 boards which have castellated vias for mounting to a PCB, or a larger but breadboard-friendly type of board that probably has a WROOM-32 atop it, plus LEDs and a programming connector and stuff.
Also FYI the ESP32 is kinda bad for quiescent current, i.e. it will have kinda bad battery life. From what I've seen, projects that want such a powerful wireless-capable chip (like Meshtastic) use other chips instead, like Nordic's NRF52 series. If you don't need the power and wireless capabilities of an ESP32, I'd advise not using one.","attachment":null,"posted":1715593335},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799110,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799109
I'm a nigger, forgot to say "compatible w/ current esp32 audio libraries". I need to play MP3, AAC, ALAC, AIFF, APE, FLAC, MP, APE, WAV, OGG and OPUS","attachment":null,"posted":1715593948},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799124,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799110
Nigger","attachment":null,"posted":1715601349},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799148,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2784440
The ESP-01s is small, has wifi, uart and spi.
Have a few myself, love them for small projects that don't need much GPIO. Quite cheap. Only downside is you need a programmer to connect it to a pc. Or make your own from an arduino or rbpi","attachment":null,"posted":1715605978},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799204,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798422
2 batteries is always going to have a shorter battery life then three for the same amount of power draw.
But to answer your question : to do 1 watt of work, the pico is going to draw 1/(2*1.2) = 415mA (2 cell configuration) vs 1/(3*1.2) = 278mA (3 cell configuration)","attachment":null,"posted":1715615543},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799304,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799110
bump","attachment":null,"posted":1715633658},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799311,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799304
Go fuck yourself.","attachment":null,"posted":1715634456},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799418,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799304
Idk man, read the documentation for the libs yourself, or find appnotes on using different MCUs for audio. If the audio libs need the ESP32’s audio PLL feature, not many of them actually have that, only the first ESP32 IIRC. The only way someone here could answer that better than you would be if they’d made their own ESP32 audio project, which is somewhat unlikely. If you’re patient one might show up, but don’t hold your breath. Unironically reddit is a better place for your question than a general of like 15 people.","attachment":null,"posted":1715653250},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799651,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"anyone have experience using IEEE-488 aka GPIB with a microcontroller? we have a bunch of scientific equipment that i would like to be able to control over the network.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715712698914007.jpg","filename":"IMG_1305.jpg"},"posted":1715712698},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799723,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799651
>anyone have experience using IEEE-488 aka GPIB with a microcontroller?
No, but what I've seen on Marco Reps' channel suggests it's quite doable to diy, and also that there's a lot of people doing similar things on various forums.","attachment":null,"posted":1715724032},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799777,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799723
interdasting. any links to said various forums?","attachment":null,"posted":1715730852},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2799929,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799651
No but I have written a Commodore disk drive emulator (I just did, stop asking) and spent a lot of time reading up on IEEE-488 and learning how it's essentially bit-banged out of an 8bit PIA. You'd basically have to do the same with a microcontroller.
You might find these useful:
https://www.pagetable.com/?p=1018
http://www.primrosebank.net/computers/pet/documents/PET_and_the_IEEE488_Bus_text.pdf","attachment":null,"posted":1715770673},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800039,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799929
i was thinking i had to write a linux kernel plugin, but do you think i could get away with just GPIO? that first link seems to suggest that the max throughput of 488 is only 2KB/s","attachment":null,"posted":1715797684},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800040,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800039
>just GPIO
*plus a couple chips like https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn75160b.pdf and https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/sn75162b.pdf","attachment":null,"posted":1715797850},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799929
(unrelated Anon reading this)
Very interesting stuff, thank you Anon.
Had no clue about Fast Serial / C128.
Awesome compilation of information there.","attachment":null,"posted":1715841101},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800398,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800039
>do you think i could get away with just GPIO
You absolutely can. The clock is basically up to you via. the DIO & NRFD lines.","attachment":null,"posted":1715869290},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800398
excellent. time to steal the company credit card and order some PCBs.","attachment":null,"posted":1715878381},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800462,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800040
actually do i even need these? they just seem to pass the bus lines through. what exactly do they do?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715882768591498.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715882768},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800476,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800462
They do all kinds of things.
Are you familiar with transmission line theory? They have termination resistors built-in.
They also clean up bus signals with hysteresis.
The provide enough current and voltage for other things that might be on the bus.
A lot of bus transceivers have a “high impedance” mode that disconnects them from the bus altogether.
ESD protection,
etc, etc, ad nauseam.","attachment":null,"posted":1715886644},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800477,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800476
hmm, i see.
ill try to get a pi talking to an instrument without the drivers, and if it goes well we can move on to fancier boards.","attachment":null,"posted":1715886747},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800837,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone here used these together (ATTiny25 and I2C HD44780)? I haven't managed to get the I2C communication it working.
>Arduino libraries
Too big binary
>Libraries for this I found on Github etc.
Didn't have success, possibly skill issue.
>Writing my own
Did manage to get the tiny and an ESP32 slave to communicate but the initialization sequence for HD44780 is like a weird esoteric ritual dance.
Specifically switching from 8-bit to 4-bit mode is the issue, if I understood this right after the switch command data must be sent in 4-bit sequences.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715967374893814.jpg","filename":"atsmol25.jpg"},"posted":1715967374},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"need help with with implementing i2c communication between two stm32 microcontrollers, any tips?
master code https://pastebin.com/AEBcW44k
slave code https://pastebin.com/KcfbsuXZ","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715969121201290.jpg","filename":"xd.jpg"},"posted":1715969121},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800843,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800837
Just bitbang i2c.
>>2800842
Have fun dying of brain cancer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715969171},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800843
lol why brain cancer?","attachment":null,"posted":1715969764},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800852,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800845
Because i2c is so complex. Why use it if you control both MCUs anyway? UART is simpler, but you could bitbang something custom too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715970263},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800852
of course i would've used uart, but the damn tutor wants i2c. it's honestly a pain in the ass, even when using HAL","attachment":null,"posted":1715970554},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2800860,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800843
>>2800852
Guess it's brain cancer day for me too then. Because of the 4-bit thing I can't even use the USI and just have to do everything manually.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715971193565072.png","filename":"Screenshot_20240517_213811.png"},"posted":1715971193},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm planning to build a platform similar to this autonomous "follow me" cooler using Arduino. I want my platform to follow me just like this cooler does, but I'm having trouble finding a GPS module similar to the one used in the video. Does anyone know a similar GPS module?
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=6I5rQfJSmaM&list=PL39pssg07dpCBNHQbxaql-8NT9rz-k3RB&index=2","attachment":null,"posted":1716004537},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801081,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I just managed to make a hello world program with no crappy Cube IDE for STM32 thanks to this guide https://vivonomicon.com/2018/04/02/bare-metal-stm32-programming-part-1-hello-arm/ as well as Part 2.
I'm so happy.","attachment":null,"posted":1716021826},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801081
You have chosen to walk a difficult path, but may there be a glorious light at the end of your journey.","attachment":null,"posted":1716030108},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801220,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801081
hey, ive gone that before, though i seem to have misplaced by pictures of it. good job anon! i believe i used that same tutorial. once you get C code working, you should use something like https://github.com/mpaland/printf to print over the UART line.","attachment":null,"posted":1716049140},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801467,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2774325
I need to keep track of the orientation of something. I have a mpu 6050 but im not sure how good these would be for this purpose. Whats the best type of sensor for this purpose. Whatever smartphones use seems to work really well.","attachment":null,"posted":1716085648},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801467
Is it next to something motionless, or is it freely moving? If the former, use a magnetic encoder of some sort. Otherwise an IMU of some sort is your only option. Any modern 9-axis IMU should be fine for this, it’s the filtering code that combines the magnetic compass with the gyroscope that’s the tricky part.","attachment":null,"posted":1716087949},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801467
Oh you could also do something like IR LED flight sim head tracking if it’s staying within a certain area.","attachment":null,"posted":1716088047},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801497,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801478
>it’s the filtering code that combines the magnetic compass with the gyroscope that’s the tricky part.
I see. Found the BNO055 which looks to do all the algorithm stuff for you. But its kinda expensive to buy without certainty its what im looking for.
>>2801481
Ive thought about this as well but I dont want to turn this into a multiyear project.","attachment":null,"posted":1716092624},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2801531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801497
>But its kinda expensive to buy without certainty its what im looking for
>dont want to turn this into a multiyear project
For either method, you'd almost certainly want to find an existing solution that you can learn from. What hardware is it going to be programmed for? Just an MCU, or can you offload it to a computer that would be taking the data either way? Computer implementations are probably more complicated to get the low-level comms going, but they're more likely to have existing solutions for flight sim and VR reasons respectively. For MCU implementations, you may have luck with ardupilot and similar UAV projects (or self balancing-robots) using an MPU for inertial navigation, while LED detection with openCV on an ESP32 is probably also something that's been done.","attachment":null,"posted":1716109700},{"board":"diy","thread":2774325,"pid":2802179,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801220
>though i seem to have misplaced my pictures of it
found one.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716224709380517.jpg","filename":"1714414989429743.jpg"},"posted":1716224709}]}
{"title":"Trade Jobs Are DYING OUT...","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Trade Jobs Are DYING OUT...
https://youtu.be/6DRm86qmXbs?si=BXi150ZR0VYKCqdQ
Why is this so ????
>inb4
>yea low pay is going to be one of the main factors.
https://www.npr.org/sections/ed/2018/04/25/605092520/high-paying-trade-jobs-sit-empty-while-high-school-grads-line-up-for-university","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714105386571103.jpg","filename":"IMG_3780.jpg"},"posted":1714105386},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791785,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Maybe if they paid more and didn’t expect 22 year olds to have 8 years experience.","attachment":null,"posted":1714105568},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791790,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
It’s pretty simple. Tradesmen usually take advantage of unskilled people. Young people actually want to do trades but don’t want to be taken advantage off. You can’t expect me to know everything if I’m a beginner. If you do get a job with these tradesmen, they usually yell at you and they’re pretty condescending. You don’t give people chances you expect everyone to be up to your expectations on the first day.","attachment":null,"posted":1714106299},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"imagine actually having to work with 4channers.
fat, fucked up teeth, retarded
imagine having to go to work with retards everyday tolerating them
it's the primary reason the trades are dying","attachment":null,"posted":1714131251},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Your npr article about high paying jobs changes nothing.
Companies bitch and moan about being unable to hire people or talk about how much their willing to pay but it's all lies.
I remember applying to BNSF a couple years ago when they were offering $8500 sign on bonuses and paid training for 30+ openings. I was immediately rejected, no interview. I gaurantee almost all of these companies get plenty of applicants.
And then my experience has been that when you do get hired, you will get paid much less than the advertised pay and raises will be much fewer and smaller than advertised.
So why are trades dying?
>yes, really, shit pay
>dealing with shitty bosses
>dealing with shitty contractors
>dealing with shitty customers
>dealing with other shitty tradies
>dealing with shady business practices like not getting the pay or benefits or breaks promised in your employment contract/state law
Then you have classic boomer retardation to blame:
>why hire and train white people to do a skilled job when I can just pay these illegal beaner crackheads $5/hr to do the same thing?
>wow look how fast they work!
>hey how come skilled craftsmanship is disappearing and everything is built so shoddy these days?
>they just don't make them like they used to","attachment":null,"posted":1714136271},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791862,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"That's why heavy industry is where it's at. It's like a trade but the people you work with respect you and don't hire illegal immigrants.","attachment":null,"posted":1714138430},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791854
You forgot
>hires the cheapest employees
>Why is everyone so lazy and keeps missing work?","attachment":null,"posted":1714141634},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791885,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791862
^Truth and wisdom.","attachment":null,"posted":1714143054},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791887,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
>Why is this so ????
it's not the pay, it's the State licensing that's a barrier to even get into these jobs
In most States to get into Plumbing, HVAC or Electrical you have to first be an apprentice for 3 or more years before you can even take the licensing test.
Problem being very few established trades companies hire on apprentices.
They'll hire on employees, who can work under the license of the company owner, but that's not a path to be able to get your own license.
And even if they do hire on apprentices, the apprentice gets burned out being treated as a nearly unpaid slave.
And if the apprentice leaves that company and goes to another company, their apprenticeship time starts all over again, so if the apprentice leaves a company with only 1 year left of a 3 year apprenticeship, they start back over for another 3 years at the new company.
Companies know this, they know that the apprentices don't want to loose the time they've put in, so the apprentices get treated like crap.
Even then, if you manage to make it through all the hurdles to get the Master Tradesman to sign off on you having completed your apprenticeship, you then have to pay several thousands of dollars to the State to take the test to get licensed.
Then there's the insurance, if you try to strike out on your own as a licensed sole operator the insurance is CRIPPLINGLY expensive.
tl:dr the boomers created a protectionist system that bars entry of younger competition.
it's why the vast majority of the trades companies are family operations, father to son, father to son, etc.
locally we had a Joint Vocational school the shut down it's Trades program as the local trades companies just entirely stopped hiring apprentices from the JVS, and without the trades companies hiring on apprentices, the JVS couldn't justify keeping those courses going.","attachment":null,"posted":1714143812},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791924,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
They're considered low-class.
The image of the highly competent, sharp, tall, handsome white tradie is a relic of the past. It isn't 1950 anymore. Zoomers want to be pornographers for a living. Just a chasm of difference.","attachment":null,"posted":1714149863},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791943,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791887
>>2791854
Forgot to add the fact that all these trades are expecting everyone to already be “skilled” before they even start! It’s too much pressure anymore to even bother trying when they’re just going to trash talk you and treat you like dirt. No wonder the trades are dying.","attachment":null,"posted":1714154747},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791887
Protectionism dates to guilds which were the early way to slow race to the bottom.","attachment":null,"posted":1714155471},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791955,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791943
>No wonder the trades are dying.
You people are so fucking retarded you just brainless repeat retarded shit you heard someone else say, most of the posters on this site have no fucking clue what they are talking about.
What does it even mean to say "the trades are dying" if there is work to be done then someone will be paid to do the work. The only way "the trades could be dying" if there was no work to be done.
And the reason you got filtered is because they don't want to spend valuable time training some vocal fry zoomer faggot who they can tell won't make it anyways.","attachment":null,"posted":1714157456},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791961,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791887
>it's not the pay, it's the State licensing that's a barrier to even get into these jobs
>tl:dr the boomers created a protectionist system that bars entry of younger competition.
Very well put and accurate. Even with good intentions, licensing has become just a state revenue apparatus. In my state the GC test is OPEN BOOK. You just need the money and basically a sponsor(another licensed contractor).
The current system keeps wages high but shuts off a lot entry. I know a ton of guys that are licensed, just not in the work they're actually doing. Because a "General Contractors" license is anything but "General."","attachment":null,"posted":1714158485},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
>locally we had a Joint Vocational school the shut down it's Trades program as the local trades companies just entirely stopped hiring apprentices from the JVS, and without the trades companies hiring on apprentices, the JVS couldn't justify keeping those courses going.
When I was in high school years ago they had a whole vocational wing. Mainly for auto mechanics and agriculture. You used to be able to earn credits towards a vocation and transfer over after high school. I'm not even sure if local high schools around me even offer those anymore.","attachment":null,"posted":1714158712},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2791971,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
A YouTube video as sauce? Lol. Lmao even. An article from 2018? Come on OP, we all know you're a faggot, but it's like you aren't even trying. Honestly, if the number of posters was still listed you'd see that there are two boomers and two guys sitting in their mom's basement eating tendies arguing about this shit. No one cares, because things have changed since 2018.
1/10 made me respond","attachment":null,"posted":1714160504},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792031,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It's truly a wonder why people don't want to slave like a nigger to some boomer for 5 years at $15 an hour to "apprentice" when they could make $18 at Mcdonalds.","attachment":null,"posted":1714173000},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792039,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Trade jobs are for retards who can't figure out how to become a licensed contractor the reason they don't pay much these days also immigrants who come and work non union jobs making it hard to compete plain and simple, to become a union journeyman and travel to job sites that pay top dollar u need a number of hours to complete as an apprentice from 3000 to 8000 plus school to qualify for the license exam, if u apply to a union u either have to be lucky af if there is demand but usually u have to have family tied to that union to get into their program, if u're young, have no experience, want to have a creer but can't go to college for whatever reason check ur local union halls and learn about these trades, in boomer days doing this and just working in the union as many hours available got u a comfy life and very good retirement, today u need to learn the trade and get out as soon as possible, that's what my formen told me and that's exactly what i did, i also went to college for construction management and gc to be able to to get better contracts for my business
t.ibew master electrician","attachment":null,"posted":1714174064},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792061,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792039
You've definitely got the "barely literate tradie" thing going.","attachment":null,"posted":1714176197},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792082,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791790
Im not boomer old but I'm millennial old who has had a business for now 15-20 years, have trained many workers and also been that bottom of the rung worker. Don't take it personally as I may be misinterpreting but.
>Taken advantage of
Usually this means doing the shit nobody else wants to do. This isn't "taking advantage" it's just parts of the job that have to get done and somehow the guy who just joined with no experience thinks it's mean to make them haul material for half the day and watch us work for the other half. This is normal. It sucks, but it's not some cruel act.
>Expect to know everything as a beginner
It's true that once you are in any trade some things are so obvious you forget what someone who is fresh doesn't know, things as simple as hunting for water on a job, how to push a wheelbarrow up a ramp, how much water should be in a sponge when grouting etc. simple tasks we do expect you to know and it's a shame when a boss is a dick about it, but...they are gonna be a dick fine, tell them to get fucked.
>Being condescending
It took me a while to fully grasp that my boss wasn't just there to do a job and run the process, there was a lot of risk, reputation, finding work so you can feed your workers and yourself etc. Once I was on my own, it dawned on me that every boss I told to fuck off because they were mean we're just stressed plus some lack of social skills and education, all they knew was construction from a time where they were allowed to just rant sexist, racist horrible shit at each other all day.
>Things changing
If you don't want to deal with the above, join a union and play by the rules, youll have managers and supervisors to complain to and that'll be that. The dinosaurs are being replaced. Personally the best quality work I've seen are from the mean, ogre of men who are difficult to work for/with. But you learn the most and you are given opportunities that can accelerate your skills faster than a union setup.","attachment":null,"posted":1714179387},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792084,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791955
This. It's the opposite, there has never been a better chance to replace a hoard of dying masters. I'm in my 30s, look literally like a homeless person and have so much work via word of mouth I don't know what to do with myself. All my clients complain they can't find workers. What I do see happening is that big builders are being dicks, the old men knew that when you had a good crew, you kept them rain or shine. Their kids took over, hired lawyers and accountants and now fire everyone to save a dollar here and there. Project ends, mass lay off, replace with the lowest paid worker, repeat. So if you want to do well in any of the "basic" trades like carpentry or painting etc. you have to serve only the super rich, who actually pay for quality. That or you specialize, specialized electrician, HVAC, technician work for elevators or other mechanics etc. Besides those two spheres being a tradie just sucks.my 2 cents anyways","attachment":null,"posted":1714179749},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792145,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Okay so i have experience living in Australia and southern California and here are my opinions on the trades situation in both of these places
>Australia
Trades definitely not dying, like 1 in 4 guys from my high school went into the trades despite life as an apprentice being absolutely shit for most people.Certain trades definitely have shortages, like bricklaying, hardly anyone young going into that trade and that's probably because of the reputation it has for being rough. Well it's a shame but its a dying trade anyway so I guess it doesn't matter, everything that was once built out of brick can now be formed up by a carpenter and poured with concrete. It'll be ugly but so is everything else modern so whatever. The reason they say there is a trade shortage is because they are importing a million brown cunts a year and they need white people to build houses for them because these brown cunts are useless and can't do anything except consume.
>Southern California
Not really a worker shortage, just a shortage of good workers. Retarded brown people who can do a bit of everything are a dime a dozen but not many truly skilled craftsmen around. Parents from middle class families dissuade their kids from going into the trades because the trades are seen as a thing that mexicans do and not white people. Also the young white people here are fucking retarded and not reliable, none of them really understand that while the pay may be average at first if you put your time in and learn the trade you can easily be charging $50-60 an hour for yourself in like 4-5 years. And most trades are going to be paying like $25 an hour starting so way above minimum wage.","attachment":null,"posted":1714191269},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
i thought about becoming an electrician. i live in philly. the union pays really well at the journeyman level. last i checked, apprentices, however, were still getting paid like $20/hour. good luck surviving on that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714216889},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792230,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791948
god you people are retarded","attachment":null,"posted":1714217816},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792289,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792228
So you expect to get paid journeymen level when you don't know shit? Retards kids I swear. It's an investment. On 4 years you'll be making like $70 an hour or whatever the fuck journeymen union sparkies make","attachment":null,"posted":1714230041},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792292,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2791783
America is a service and soon to be an information economy
Production and farming are in the past","attachment":null,"posted":1714230363},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792295,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792289
when i was considering it 4 years ago it was $16-17/hour and i was making $70k at the time. stuck with what i was doing and now im making $115k so it's working out.","attachment":null,"posted":1714231230},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792292
Modern farming requires skilled equipment maintainers and operators, not (except for crops still requiring manual harvest and the baseline general labor for any such business) meatbag general labor in large quantity.
Beware sloppy generalizations.","attachment":null,"posted":1714231519},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792300,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Oy very! Don't take trade jobs goyim! Go to our communist indoctrination academy where you pay is to learn why chopping your dick or tits off is good. Let these jobs be done by the illegals we bring in instead!","attachment":null,"posted":1714231720},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792311,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791790
can confirm. It happened to me when I was trying to get into grading. condescending fuck I worked with was a preacher and still talked shit behind my back constantly and blow up on me sometimes. They were alienating as well since I was a good ole boy with a room temp iq like most of them were.","attachment":null,"posted":1714233722},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792341,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
This honest carpenter guy really wants to suck mike rowe right in the penus","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714239108334524.webm","filename":"1661221803925798.webm"},"posted":1714239108},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Whitey foreman/gc/manager wasn't racist. Sure hire the Mexicans, Russians, whatever
20 years later, they're the bosses now.
>crew is 100% people from their own country, they get in fights with the Russian crew.","attachment":null,"posted":1714239308},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792344,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792342
There was no one else to hire you fucking dumbass racist.
Quit crying about replacement theory when your pale ass has no fucking children and you will probably never even have a gf","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714239514788813.jpg","filename":"8sgj5eaxr2931.jpg"},"posted":1714239514},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792344
I see I was correct
>replacement theory","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714239679926811.jpg","filename":"R (3).jpg"},"posted":1714239679},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792347,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Kids dont even like cars anymore. With no car culture, there is no interest in blue collar sensibilities","attachment":null,"posted":1714239931},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792292
You can't eat information. We still live in a physical reality. Production and farming are more valuable when less people know how to produce and farm.
Contrary to the old saying, Knowledge is NOT power. Knowledge APPLIED is power.","attachment":null,"posted":1714240832},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792354
Robits will be growing all the tomatoes anon","attachment":null,"posted":1714242526},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792372
When robots can power, maintain, fix, and perpetuate themselves, let me know.","attachment":null,"posted":1714252651},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792591,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792372
Great, we can send all the Mexican's back then!","attachment":null,"posted":1714272323},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791887
>the insurance is CRIPPLINGLY expensive.
How much do you think $1mil of insurance as a workman do you think it actually costs per year?","attachment":null,"posted":1714273993},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792605,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Wait so some of you are upset in order to be in the trades you get paid like shit and worked hard doing inexperienced shit while being paid and a few licenses or certifications proving you know how to safely build a fucking house is why young people aren't getting into trades?
So the alternative is taking out massive loans,4 years of unpaid learning, then starting at a job getting paid like shit for the first few years of their careers is the logical choice being made?","attachment":null,"posted":1714275172},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792605
Nobody wants to put forth any effort to get started or earn their place. They all want the highest paying job off the bat with as close to as zero effort as possible.
Oh and they will only put in a maximum of 40 hours a week, not one second more.","attachment":null,"posted":1714275490},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792606
Yeah, you can find crews to do certain jobs like paint, roofing, framing, whatever. You just do sales and own the place, take all the profit and never touch a hammer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714275840},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792606
>>2792610
And this is why most general contractors become contractors. Because they don't want to do the actual work themselves.
Don't confuse licenses with certifications.","attachment":null,"posted":1714277170},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791862
like what exactly? driving a monster truck at a mine? not too many and normally go to retarded family of company execs and owners.
"US Navy frigate behind schedule due to staffing shortage at shipyard!" Pay is absolute shit, like when you factor in a few factors, its at or BELOW fast food, with less advancement.
I've done construction in Silicon Valley and even on a Public School job with Union Contractors they will use unskilled Illegals to do electrical work on major remodels, and have the real Sparky show up for two days when it gets inspected.","attachment":null,"posted":1714277264},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792696,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"it's not that hard to understand. our parents who were in trades and knew how hard they were working told an entire generation to get some higher education, so they don't have to work so hard. that's what we did. now that sectore is oversaturated and trades are dying. now you can see a reversal starting to happen - I'm pretty sure our kids will get told to get into a trade.
but at the same time trade work isn't really attractive when you could get an physically easier job.
>>2792082
>This isn't "taking advantage" it's just parts of the job that have to get done
this entire sentence, while there is truth in it, shows a core problem. coworkers are tasked to teach new people. often times they have no interest in that, lack any teaching skills, are annoyed that they're tasked to do it or various other reasons. "let them do the dirty work" is one of the worst ways to teach new people. the dirty work has to be done too, I get it. but start teaching the new hire on day one so they become useful as quick as possible while sharing the dirty work. this way the new hire not only feels appreciated but sees that cleaning up and hauling shit is everybody's responsibility. this way you create a much better environment.
so as a boss you need to look out for people who want and CAN teach new people too. and preferably not just one dude but multiple","attachment":null,"posted":1714302152},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792082
So do I just tough it out when dealing with a condescending jackass? I've managed to move up quickly at a new company, receiving training from multiple department heads. This has really pissed off a supervisor that's been there for 14 years, as well as made others jealous I imagine. I just go to work pissed off every day because of him","attachment":null,"posted":1714313567},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792747,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792696
>but at the same time trade work isn't really attractive when you could get an physically easier job.
This. You can easily make 6-figures even starting out in most trades however those 50-hour work weeks of demolishing your body basically aren't worth the money or owrking conditions.
Ever see a master plumber elbow-deep in sewage to fix a pipe? I wouldn't do that job for less than thousands of dollars per hour.","attachment":null,"posted":1714314865},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792752,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792747
>Ever see a master plumber elbow-deep in sewage to fix a pipe?
no, and you haven't either, not in a civilized country. actually do some plumbing then talk about it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714315597},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792754,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792752
No, but I have seen the owner of the company in a brand new $100k truck show up to supervise Enrique the 5'3" mexican digging the hole to get to the sewage pipe for 6 hours under a house.
Go touch pipes yourself.","attachment":null,"posted":1714315963},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792757,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792754
>supervise Enrique the 5'3" mexican
I repeat: "civilized", which does not include your owner friend, and Enrique is not a "master plumber" if he swims in shit to fix a pipe
>Go touch pipes yourself.
I've repaired fucked up sewer lines in a pond of sewage and I've yet to have to touch the stuff. I have sense, unlike you and your owner friend and Enrique. Sure, some macho shitheads take pride in not being "afraid" of it, but intelligent plumbers NEVER find themselves elbow-deep in sewage, EVER.
I have a policy: I only reply to idiots once, and then I let them have the last word. Do your best, then have a nice day. I'm out of here. bye.","attachment":null,"posted":1714316428},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792758,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792757
>I have a policy: I only reply to idiots once
You've replied to this idiot at least twice so far. And you're making shit up because plumbers generally have to get dirty and come in contact with shitwater they never want to but thats how water splashes around. If you're a plumber that never touches gross stuff, you're probably working in new construction and not repairing or replacing old stuff.
>I've repaired fucked up sewer lines in a pond of sewage and I've yet to have to touch the stuff.
Yeah? You use your extra long wrenches and do it from the shitpond shore?","attachment":null,"posted":1714316776},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792807,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792039
i like that this is one big sentence.","attachment":null,"posted":1714326254},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792825,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792747
>demolishing your body
as opposed to sitting in an office chair for your entire career, and dying at 40 from diabetes and obesity like 99% of white collar workers","attachment":null,"posted":1714327857},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792828,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792825
Yeah, sitting at a computer and getting regular exercise with other healthy habits always leads to diabetes, obesity, and death at 40. Compared to 99% tradies that get addicted to opiates, develop alcoholism, and are crippled by 40 unable to walk to the mail box.
>see, I can make up dumb shit too","attachment":null,"posted":1714328150},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
who cares?","attachment":null,"posted":1714330761},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792899,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792738
Rant
Not to get to esoteric, but I decide how I feel and that nobody can move me from that state. When I deal with jackasses I usually remain very calm and let them sort of trip over themselves. If someone is particularly aggressive I always try to get to the solution of whatever needs solving and if they are incapable I just go above their head.
As a company owner there are a handful of people I actually have just refused to work with. Eg. They want to be the contractor on a project, I have to work with them, if they fuck me or try to fuck me I simply say "the project is done, my services are no longer available to you, feel free to pass my number to the owner etc. and I'll work with them directly". I don't like getting fucked. Generally I just hold my ground and if things get a little too out of hand I start packing, I've walked off 2-3 jobs in the last 20 years. I'm too good at my job to be abused and I have a good reputation so it hasnt hurt my business.
Ultimately I was this way as a worker and as an owner. I'm not aggressive but if people are a little to mean or aggressive I plainly tell them something like - they should calm down, I won't continue working if they don't collect themselves, can we be civil, let's be professional or at worst, "we are not a good fit, I will not be continuing here, sorry" and leave. Usually the result is whoever is more important than them calling me to discuss what happened and not to worry they won't act a certain way.
What you should never do is dabble where you are not strong. I'm not someone who yells and screams, I'm someone who is calm and cool, so if someone really pisses me off id rather pull them into my skill set than fall into the rage hole they are very comfortable with. Make them feel small, manipulate the situation to your benefit. A boss who is extremely mean or threatening responds quickly to "this behavior is not acceptable, if you continue I'll be reporting this to the head super".","attachment":null,"posted":1714337429},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2792965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
And yet the unions will still vote for Pedophile, or one of his idiot Dem replacements, just like they did for Obamby and watch the jobs fly overseas:)","attachment":null,"posted":1714345042},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793004,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Because I make $25/hour being a cable man but not in a trade.
I can go pick up a CCNA and make even more at the drop of a hat.
I'd love to do electrical stuff, but I'm not about to spend 5 years making less than a Walmart employee while having to buy my own tools while the older folks steal them.
I'm not going to work out in the fucking 100 degree weather and shit in a portapotty for less than $30/hour, sweetie.","attachment":null,"posted":1714351590},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793009,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"machinist bros, the QRD?
manual machinist or cnc machinist? Supposedly you can get paid pretty good or something but I don't got good enough grades to get into university and I'm a year behind in math.","attachment":null,"posted":1714352324},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793010,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792606
Let me know when it gets any easier to live in a large amount of this country while putting in the time learning and making shit money. Let me know when people can AFFORD to put in the time to earn their place. okay boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1714352453},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792082
>>Taken advantage of
>Usually this means doing the shit nobody else wants to do.
my dad was a mechanic and hes constantly wary of mechanics fucking up his shit and stealing parts right off his rig, I dont know what the hell your business is but it was obvious what that faggot is talking about. are you actually trying to make it sound like this kind of thing doesn't happen or are you just in some kind of goldylocks industry?","attachment":null,"posted":1714352839},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793020,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792082
>it's just parts of the job that have to get done and somehow the guy who just joined with no experience thinks it's mean to make them haul material for half the day and watch us work for the other half. This is normal. It sucks, but it's not some cruel act.
this is a shitty way to teach someone anything.
>It's true that once you are in any trade some things are so obvious you forget what someone who is fresh doesn't know, things as simple as hunting for water on a job,
I have never met any boomer who does not lose their shit if you ask questions about anything, get mad at you for checking their work, nor provide adiquate instructions when ignored. These people demand for you to simply smile and nod. I'm glad I did not become a tradie nor do I really want to, because its filled with people like this. But I genuinely feel bad for the young people who took genuine interest in what their parents do, only to realize meeting their expectations was rendered impossible by their own egotistical behavior. Instead if they are fortunate, they have to look through randos and hope they get someone with a better temperment than their own flesh and blood.
>all they knew was construction from a time where they were allowed to just rant sexist, racist horrible shit at each other all day.
I don't know what it is about people these days but most of the sexist racist horrible shit saying people I know tend to be the kindest while people complaining about that shit like you tend to be the worst. You seem to be conflating that shit with boomers, who collectively behave poorly as a rule regardless of belief system. As a tranny, nothing would make me feel more comfortable than someone poping a troon joke or saying careful not to ack yourself on the skill saw. having to watch your word every 2 seconds sucks dick most of the time. The issue is not with chimping out, it's why and when. I don't want to be chimped out at when I am trying to learn or worse doing a favor.","attachment":null,"posted":1714353215},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"not reading any posts
muratic acid
MOST states DO NOT have a union and are saturated in cheap immigrant labor
the pay is atrocious unless you have a union, and if you do the pay is totally worth the ~4 year program, so anyone complaining about unions is retarded
i worked in a union state planning to leave so never certified as an apprentice but my boss was paying me way more with 1 year experience (i'm competent, learned fast, and could be trusted) then i'm now making in a right-to-work state without unions as a freakin manager
i have 3 years experience now managing people with 20-30 years and they're all fuckin retarded and unreliable
new construction is tiny fuckin margins because of the cheap labor force
all the money, fun, pleasure is in small time remodel work
all new construction outside union states is TERRIBLE because of cheap labor and boomer builders","attachment":null,"posted":1714353366},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793022,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793021
also piece rate employment is retarded
boomers literally just established shit systems that are china tier and it's going to be really obvious the upcoming decades as all our infrastructure falls apart and doesn't get replaced","attachment":null,"posted":1714353455},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793026,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793021
>muratic acid
don't you mean muriatic? Also, that wouldn't solve anything. Why do middle easterners resolve to acids they can't even spell?","attachment":null,"posted":1714353946},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793009
anyone?","attachment":null,"posted":1714354274},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793032,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793026
it's a meme who cares
nothing is going to solve anything except collapse and/or seperating yourself from the bullshit and just doing upper-class private work","attachment":null,"posted":1714354410},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792899
>What you should never do is dabble where you are not strong
That's actually really helpful, thanks. I'm not gonna let him run me off so easy","attachment":null,"posted":1714354457},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793058,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793021
ha ha union workers are just glorified laborers
there is not a single union worker in any trade who could do something that compares to the tradesmen working on high end custom homes
the audacity of union carpenters even calling themselves carpenters when the closest thing they do to carpentry is hammer duplex nails","attachment":null,"posted":1714358140},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793058
a glorified. english speaking, legal white man laborer is still way better than illegal subcontractors
the gatekeep of unions makes a huge difference and raises wages to attract intelligent white people
i understand 90% of people in every field are shit but you obviously don't understand how bad it is in states where it's completely OK to subcontract mexican shit with no certs what soever","attachment":null,"posted":1714360730},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793185,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793009
It's fun work. With cnc you could potentially move into programming and make bank. With manual it's a lot more hands on and you feel like you made something, it's also going to be more one off work I think so you'll be doing different things more often.
The safer route is CNC, you'll always find CNC work","attachment":null,"posted":1714385590},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792606
>Noooooo why ain't dem workers with proper training and certifications willing to work for crumbs like dem browns from da border?
>Noooooo why dem tradies so concerned about making a living wage in a bad economy?
>Noooooo why ain't dem tradies finding enough work hours to get by?
You senile idiot.","attachment":null,"posted":1714389323},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">hard dangerous work
>shit pay
>shit bosses
>fuck tones of gate keeping (licensing, permits and unions)
I wonder why no one wants to work in the trades","attachment":null,"posted":1714393420},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793523,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What do I do if my boss catches me watching anime on break? He looks at me like I'm a faggot every time I speak to him now and ignores me when he can","attachment":null,"posted":1714430795},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"This whole thread is people talking past one another.
The trades sucks and getting to a career from a trades job is very difficult. The trades are dying because everyone knows that you get maybe 20 years of tradesjob and then you are pretty much kicked to the curb unless you can move up into management or get a license. Maybe if you are lucky you will find someone who will pity you for a minute and give you a job when you are 40 for a dollar under scale.","attachment":null,"posted":1714431288},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793526
Yep","attachment":null,"posted":1714445499},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793631,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793526
I work with a few old farts that managed to hang in there, but the toll it takes on your body is brutal. The ones that are forced to go on are the ones that didn't save throughout their careers and are forced to keep going to make ends meet. Sitting behind a machine in a shop seems to be the easiest (relatively) on your body, though you have to deal with a lot of workplace bullshit. As a college graduate that switched to the trades, I think it is still the better choice as long as you make smart decisions during your career.","attachment":null,"posted":1714448345},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Trades is too broad a term. A welder for a nuke plant can lead a long, comfy well-paid career and gain certs to do inspections. A wire welder assembling trailers not so much.
An auto mechanic working retail who never advances won't do near as well as my former boss who started a used car lot and built his stock repairing auction buys. He died old and rich.
My machine shopownerbro is happy and rich. His wife does CAD and runs the books. His best workers do a few years and move upward with bigger firms. The bottom feeders are content but don't advance.","attachment":null,"posted":1714450537},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793657,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
idk how it is where you are, but in SW US it's boomers and genx contractors hiring mexicans, and a lot of contractors stiff them on pay, and this has been happening for a while
a competent crew can make SO much fucking money out here it's just waiting in a sea of unskilled labor that's flooding jobsites","attachment":null,"posted":1714453221},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793631
Most of the tradesmen who make it to old fart status do so through getting into a maintenance role at some point, or just retire into disability once they have a house and car paid off. It is a very inhuman system and the number of guys I have met who have the "ideal" trades retirement (Union Pension and large savings), all have some choice words about how the union was great until they get to the tail end of their career and they get to see more how the sausage is made. There is a lack of virtue in the unions and especially in the management of the unions.
>Sitting behind a machine in a shop seems to be the easiest (relatively) on your body, though you have to deal with a lot of workplace bullshit
I think those guys are universally old fucks. There may be a generational reason for that though as they don't pump out tool & die journeymen like they used to.
I'd note that every tradesmen I have ever met sent their kids to college even if they were taking over the family trade, and nearly universally told their kids to go into government work. Disgusting.","attachment":null,"posted":1714470077},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793707,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791871
also
>Pays below industry averages
>It's just not worth hiring and training anyone, they don't stick around !","attachment":null,"posted":1714471326},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793709,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793206
what trade in 2024 is dangerous?
Hard is more a function of technique, the right tools, and keeping yourself in shape
People that "ruin their bodies" work too many hours","attachment":null,"posted":1714471929},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793765,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793709
Arborist, truck driver, utility lineman","attachment":null,"posted":1714486977},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793185
thanks anon.
I don’t see how a bunch of gcode translates to programming experience though but that’s a relief","attachment":null,"posted":1714491286},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793799,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793784
You "program" using a CAM software such as MasterCAM to create the movements that make the part. The experience you get CNC machining helps you know what kind of shit you can get away with programming","attachment":null,"posted":1714494088},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2793816,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793799
^This and shitty designs abound from those who do not.","attachment":null,"posted":1714496316},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794031,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792449
> power, maintain, fix, and perpetuate themselves
Self replicating nanotechnology making humans into synthetics from the deathshot is an immediate example that comes to mind. So, it's not happening outwardly as most are anticpating,","attachment":null,"posted":1714527523},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794042,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792145
I'll be going into a trade school, but I work my shitty warehouse wagie job in the meantime to build the funds.
Warehouse work is always retarded, but it's fun to use the machinery and it's good experience understanding maintenance.","attachment":null,"posted":1714531122},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794045,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793702
A bunch of "i gots mine" types. Easy to fall into that trap when you work a trade where you service people who can't do a lot of basic things that people before us, from all of all walks of life, casually knew how to do.","attachment":null,"posted":1714532244},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794107,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794031
The more we know about nano technology and how our own cells work, the more it looks like nanotechnology is hardly gonna do shit.","attachment":null,"posted":1714544642},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">go to work
>yet yelled at by some 500lb high school drop out for shit you can't control
>he doesn't know how anything works the higher ups don't give a fuck so you just take it
>your wife just got a nursing certificate and already makes more money than you
>your coworkers will throw you under the fucking bus for any little thing
>office workers don't even want to talk to you because they think you are beneath them
it's difficult to keep that passion for work when it's just humiliating in a lot of ways. It would be worth it if the supervisors in trades weren't always the biggest retards you'll ever meet","attachment":null,"posted":1714558740},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794180,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2793799
I wouldn’t focus on programming, they already have AI generated 3D printing slicers and a lot of CAM programs have a premium AI enchanted feature set
Ya a matter of time before you can input your work holding , stock size and machine capabilities and tools on hand and “slice” your machine program for simple parts. Using a large language model.
A lot of AI programs can already write Gcode from scratch with language inputs
“Write a safety block, face a 6061 2.5” x2.5” x2.5” block by 20’thou with a 1” endmill”
“Canned cycle drill path, peck by 100 thou return to safety plane”
And it will do it","attachment":null,"posted":1714563919},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Low ceiling trades:
>Carpentry/scaffolding, plumbing, insulators, roofing, small engine mechanics
These jobs can pay livable wages but you will find yourself stuck in city construction, tooling around in a beat up service truck (or your own vehicle), and working with drug addicts/divorcees. I will say that industrial carpenters, concrete workers, and insulators make more money working out of town and do get adequately compensated for busting their asses.
>High ceiling trades: welding (pipeline/stainless steel), heavy duty mechanic, millwrights, electrician/instrumentation, ironworkers
These trades can set you up on a path to impressive 6-figure salaries if you were to attend training for project management, consulting, or power engineering/maintenance contracts.
Tradesmen who take care of themselves, aren't fucktards, have financial smarts, and know not to bring harm to their bodies have many opportunities to land gravy gigs that pay as much or more than post-secondary graduates. Their will always be a need for someone digging with a shovel or hauling material, but you can do some research and take courses to be a guy who TELLS someone how deep a trench needs to be or what kind of equipment needs to be installed","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714564039013736.png","filename":"zOobFF83-qcaV1fzDYL6KdYGz3XWflXh4bU8GXZcTxE.png"},"posted":1714564039},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794181
Plumbers can make insane money if they own their own business, even those doing work for a general can make decent cash. But carpentry, insulation, roofing, framing, basically anything the mexican crews can do they'll do it for much cheaper than you and isn't worth messing with.
Welding has become a meme; because so many people heard welders make $200k a month the trade has become ultra saturated and some welders are basically making $16/hr doing the exact same weld for 9 hours a day. Once you get really fucking good, you're still in the brutal struggle of either working for a major company that needs shit to pass x-ray tests, or you're working for a custom fab shop, but don't hold out for either of those because you'll need to wait for those welders to die before you'll be hired. Electricians can be hit or miss, but a decent one is just like a plumber; have your own business and get with the right foreman they'll keep you busy forever. Iron workers are a bunch of crybabies.","attachment":null,"posted":1714568777},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794211,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794210
You make some good points, it really is what you make of your career and your home life situation. I'm not knocking a plumber who has to stay in town to work so he can be close to his family, just like any other mechanical trade.
I've been a sparky for 11 years and I've done just about everything except maintenance. I plan on taking power engineering courses to become an operator for some oil and gas company, sit in a mod building in the middle of nowhere watching Formula 1 races and going out checking readings every now and then.
The money in industrial/oil & gas is absurd but I don't want to subject my body to years of inhaling coke dust, NORMs, or have some brown man scaffolder drop a pair of wire nippers on my head.","attachment":null,"posted":1714569387},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794214,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794211
>it really is what you make of your career and your home life situation.
This es exactly why you should never go into a specific trade like "welding" because someone who isn't a welder heard apprentices make $50k with no experience and good welders make $250k. Thats that same dumbass meme of "get into computer information technologies with this certificate and make $100k a year because everyone in IT makes 6-figures!" then they end up being a help desk monkey for $15/hr for 5 years before they realize they've been duped and the job is ultra saturated.
Its almost impossible to see the forest for the trees, but yeah you can make a lot of money doing almost any trade and you're not a complete moron with your own finances and investments. And I don't mean investments in a stock market. An investment into a tool to get the job done better or faster. A lot of younger guys in trades think they should get the best tools and a lifted truck and call that an investment.","attachment":null,"posted":1714569881},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794356,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791785
>Maybe if they paid more and didn’t expect 22 year olds to have 8 years experience.
=EIGHT= years? I've seen some where they wanted ten, for an entry wage of $12.00/hr.
>>2791854
This. The industry I'm in, most companies used to supply specialized tooling and gauges, now they are expecting the entry level mechanics to provide these. And that entry level wage has been plummeting, while these companies boast record profits.","attachment":null,"posted":1714590284},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794463,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794181
my Fiancé is a Carpenter Apprentice in the Seattle area, work in the region completely dried up due to budget cuts after the massive COVID shutdowns here.
thousands of union members are out of work through all of the trades and the halls have no answer for it, yet they expect you to keep paying your dues. she hasnt even received a dispatch call in 6 months. their only advice is to go solicit yourself at job sites but there is no active list of current job sites, just the jobs that hired people the week before (and therefore arnt hiring anyway).","attachment":null,"posted":1714604486},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794479,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794463
Maybe its because they don't like him. Its also seattle so fuck that place.","attachment":null,"posted":1714607419},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
i was a welder in southern oregon for a year. i did mig and mostly worked on aluminium. i was apprenticing under one of our cities 3 tig welders.
i made more than 70% of the people in that building.
i still made $1.80 less than the local walmart payed stoners to sweep up isles. and about $3.90 less than walmart paid stoners to work the self checkout register.
i understand that not everyone is going to start well off. that one must work his way to a higher pay. but we consider walmart wages poverty tier. anything below that is not worth skipping meals or heat for the winter. i have so much hate for the factory owners, who get together to play poker every weekend, and -cohen-cidently all pay the same wages.","attachment":null,"posted":1714609161},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794487
>i was apprenticing under one of our cities 3 tig welders.
Why don't you fucking morons refuse to work until you get a raise if theres only 4 of you in the entire city? You 4 could play poker and coincidentally charge $500 per hour. How about this; You force your city council to agree to some bullshit made up southern oregon union or welders permit and boom, you've cornered the market. I assume you dont' work for 'the city' but you meant theres 4 total tig welders including you in the city.
You haven't thought about this while losing brain cells on fumes?","attachment":null,"posted":1714615031},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794572,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794487
I got a job in an office after college once,
You know we were all paid pretty well, had university degrees basically emailed each other all day
The safety meetings were about carpel tunnel from typing too much, back problems from sitting all day and making sure the women don’t get too cold in the air conditioning
Now I’m dodging drops off the lathe from ww2 that throws them at the side of the cnc mill
And try to breathe in an unairconditikned non-ventilated warehouse with oil mist coolant making the air thick","attachment":null,"posted":1714627223},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794580,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793009
I went to school for machining (both manual and cnc, programming included) and currently work as a cnc operator waiting for a position in the tool room to become available. The pay will never be good, but it can certainly be enough. Moving into programming or engineering will absolutely net you more than machining, but personally I have the machine autism and like watching it go brrr, so I'd rather stay a machinist.","attachment":null,"posted":1714628585},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794515
the one i apprenticed under is a drug addict, probably still is. i learned more from youtube than him. i do not expect them to be able to do much of anything after work hours. so i bailed and got a very specific job where i am currently very near the top of my very specific field.
>>2794572
thats a rough downgrade bro.","attachment":null,"posted":1714651641},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792292
god you are a retarded faggot, i hope you kill yourself. pied pippers like yourself keep leading us off the cliff, now we are falling and trying to grab onto something and you're all
>lol now we are a pitfall economy, soon to transition to a bottom of the pit economy, just embrace it goy
meanwhile, the same dual citizenship JEWS who write these articles and push this meme are literally taking your money and setting up factories and aggricultural in their home country of israel. China is too. Every single country the jew outsources our 'everything' too, those countries double down and use the profits to reinforce their own production because ownership is king.
we arent transitioning to an information economy, we are transitioning to institutionalized serfdom.","attachment":null,"posted":1714684376},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794817,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794210
>Plumbers can make insane money if they own their own business
yeah. by cheating people
>oey vey goyim i need 100$ an hour, deadline unknown. Oh man i tiled your bathroom but they cracked so now you need to pay me 6 hours of labor to undo my own work, then do it over again. Hopefully they dont crack this time amirite ;)","attachment":null,"posted":1714684506},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794821,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794817
I can tell you're stupid because you're paying a PLUMBER to lay tile in your bathroom. Try using a flooring or tile contractor next time.
And yeah, plumbers in some areas can charge whatever the fuck they want because the alternative is paying a plumber an hour away who will charge $300 fuel surcharge then tell you to go fuck yourself because you're not worth the drive to work on your plumbing.","attachment":null,"posted":1714685495},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794863,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794639
The cnc production job oddly feels more productive…
Like how are those little Palestinian kids going to get drone strikes if I’m not out there on the shop floor cutting metal ?!
We can’t let those little anti-semites live","attachment":null,"posted":1714693468},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793009
Seconding this. I’ve never programmed before and am shit at math, would I still be able to do cnc? Can it be a comfy gig?","attachment":null,"posted":1714715079},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2794998,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794983
You do not need to know anything to be a CNC operator.","attachment":null,"posted":1714720194},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795110,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
>Why is this so ????
Personally i left it because i had to deal with a lot of shitheads.","attachment":null,"posted":1714752309},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795224,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I trade my machines time for money. manual is for repair therefore dealing with people who want to fuck around about price. I can do anything on a cnc that i can do on manual but that is from experience having to do fucked up shit for previous employers. a basis in manual machines helps in cnc. again i trade my machines time for money if dont understand just pick up the shovel retard.","attachment":null,"posted":1714775727},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795245,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Boomers have gatekept the trades so hard they aren't even worth pursuing for most. Wanted to drill a water well in Texas in my backyard. You need 2 years of experience under a licensed driller which includes 15 bore holes and 15 pump installs as well as a passing score on the test. 2 years to drill a fucking hole in my backyard. Meanwhile you can be a Jew and take the series 7 and sell financial products to teenagers in much shorter time with zero experience.
Is two years of experience going to keep me from fucking up the water table? Fuck no. If anything pissing away two years is going to make me cut corners. Boomers don't give you any way to compromise. Can't have an inspector come out and license you on the hole you drilled, but you can have someone at the DMV ride alongside you to get your license? Boomers really ruined everything.","attachment":null,"posted":1714780897},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795323,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792145
Forgot how racist and uninformed Aussies are. Fair dinkum, Bob is your rapey uncle. Why does your armed forces wear those gay ass shorts?","attachment":null,"posted":1714794160},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795352,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795224
>therefore dealing with people who want to fuck around about price.
Cull clients to large industry only (they're still dicks and treat you as a bank like any shop). My bro got very rich doing repair machining since apparently even German quality has become roach guest worker quality. He's basically rebuilt brand new machines for a tire company because the OEM in Germany gives zero fucks.
He also does stuff like welding cast iron (Crown Alloys MIG wire is glorious) for a local sausage company but now insists they clean everything before he'll touch is because gearboxes full of maggots. (He doesn't eat their sausage after that.)","attachment":null,"posted":1714805802},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795800,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Its the first person I have seen who tried to adress this issue, ON THE WHOLE PLANET. The first fucking ever. Even on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DRm86qmXbs&t
it is mostly unguided "free for all"","attachment":null,"posted":1714916601},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795806,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795800
oh shit I meant this link
https://t.me/WorkingMenMemes
Why the fuck are there literally only a handful of skilled dudes who want to right the wrongs on this planet. Every day its another big shouting match between some religious, philosophical or political issue that never resolves anything.","attachment":null,"posted":1714917038},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795811,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
they're not actually dying out, countries are just figuring out they can hire foreigners to do most construction jobs.
think about a village of polish workers. are you cheaper than the cheapest of those workers? are you more talanted than the most talented of them? if the answer is no then you're not gonna be able to compete on price or quality, doesn't matter what degrees you get.
i'm saying this as someone who has a useless trade school degree, i quit and got a job in garbage disposal and i get significantly more paid","attachment":null,"posted":1714917842},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795831,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
And then people will accept a 40k/yr desk job after college and wonder why they're poor LMAO
>>2791790
This dude is so fkn mad","attachment":null,"posted":1714921421},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2795854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795811
Its a culture of narcissism. It is dying out, what few browns they get, their kids get the narcism too and want to be big important e-celebs. Its a wide and far reaching trend.","attachment":null,"posted":1714923633},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796065,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
is this good bending form in the youtube thumbnail? that guy seems like he will fuck his shit if he doesn't bend more at the pelvis","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714953269030818.png","filename":"2501a8942f9eac5fa2ba3adf6d6b2ef2.png"},"posted":1714953269},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
HVAC installer for 4 years. Customer i did an install for used to work for the same company. Said he left for the union after they had a light winter (nothing changed in 25yr) and at the end of day after seeing my install gives me an application for Building Control Engineeers.
Should I go into this? Residential HVAC installs is killing me mentally, moronic helpers annoying homeowners penny-pinching bosses.
Only thing holding me back is the "union life". I don't go out with coworkers, I do not drink at bars, at most I attend a yearly christmas party. Will I fit in at the union? Pls help an autistic tradesman out. In my early 30s btw.","attachment":null,"posted":1714991082},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796221,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"ahh fuck dieing so hard, just drinking coffee, watching youtube, shitposting. waiting for the cnc machine to warm up. about to make bank all day. sell machine time not my time. trades are dieing, Find a product that doesn't involve machining.","attachment":null,"posted":1714992355},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796836,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've realized it doesn't matter how hard you work, you're still just a blue collar wagie that makes things for engineers in the same fashion a doordasher gets food for a lazy cunt. Office people will always think less of you too. I wish some kind of standard had been held for the kind of people in trades, because right now my boss is a 600lb retard that shifts the blame from any of his mistakes onto people that can't possibly defend themselves. It's just a horrible existence where you're busting your ass for some jack ass that thinks nothing of you.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124347},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792298
>Modern farming requires skilled equipment maintainers and operators
Lol stfu dawg, I was driving those ginormous tractors at 11 years old in the field.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715126936981985.jpg","filename":"1710959953583602.jpg"},"posted":1715126936},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796869,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792082
>join a union and play by the rules
Yea no fuck you","attachment":null,"posted":1715128075},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796870,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792344
>There was no one else to hire you fucking dumbass racist.
lol, You just proved him right","attachment":null,"posted":1715128162},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793523
Perhaps that is because you're (what i pressume) an adult male... WATCHING CARTOONS. Seriously?","attachment":null,"posted":1715128668},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796875,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794107
elaborate","attachment":null,"posted":1715128895},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796876,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794211
>plan on taking power engineering courses to become an operator for some oil and gas company, sit in a mod building in the middle of nowhere watching Formula 1 races and going out checking readings every now and then.
Yes, but how do you plan on not killing yourself though knowing you're wasting your one life away?","attachment":null,"posted":1715129063},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796900,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796875
Okay so they figured out how to grow cow muscle tissue in a test tube. Great it's gonna be super efficient right?
Well no. You need to spend a thousand dollars getting a nutrient available a urry to them. And another 1000 for oxygenated blood. And another 1000 for keeping it warm. And there is no solution for keeping it healthy except completely perfect 100% for the time sterility conditions. Very difficult ult to achieve. It also tastes like shit because there's no variety or structure. It costs $1000/pound and is awful.
There is no economy of scale that's going to make this better. This is after we've already hammered out 30 n years of breakthrough technology and its still shit.
Or you could just get a cow. It feeds itself, keeps itself alive, and tastes wonderful.
For true nanotechnology were finding out there's no way to power these devices or make them move intelligently
Its not like you're gonna fit a raspberry pi and battety and wifi module in a bacteria","attachment":null,"posted":1715136629},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796919,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792230
Read the wealth of nations. Guilds date pretty bad. Like you can't even read the English for the earliest union laws. This is covered in chapter 10 part 11. Basically for the better part of civilization, people that consume large volumes of products to produce their marketable goods, benefit by forming unions and denying entry.
Codified
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statute_of_Artificers_1562
Sauce
https://www.marxists.org/reference/archive/smith-adam/works/wealth-of-nations/book01/ch10b.htm#:~:text=By%20the%205th%20of%20Elizabeth,been%20the%20bye%20law%20of","attachment":null,"posted":1715139763},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2796931,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792031
With the difference over that time you could cover most of a year's lease on retail space in Chicago. With interest you'd be able to afford it. Common retail options are vape shops, adult toys, convenience stores, and pawn. Uncommon is jewelry, nutrition, bikes... Really 5 years is a long time to just smoke weed and complain about government. Just don't be a consooomer","attachment":null,"posted":1715141851},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797020,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"everything is dying. even doctors and pilots are getting screwed big time. living standard is just decreasing across the board, and sometime between 2030-2040 there will just varying levels of serfdom no matter what you do.
its not unique to the trades.","attachment":null,"posted":1715174225},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797331,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
I’m switching careers from animation to trades, specifically metal fabrication. My goal is industrial mechanic but fabricator school is free so I’ll try to pick up welding skills using the school’s shop. I’m 28 but I’ve worked on Netflix and Disney productions, so that isn’t just padding my resume. I’ve had to work with thousand-dollar late fees looming over my head so I can take a job seriously, I’m a dependable worker. Plus I have experience with home and appliance repair.
I’m not looking for anything glamorous, just something that can get me back on my feet and working with my hands again.
What do you guys think my prospects look like?","attachment":null,"posted":1715227248},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797020
My whole life > doctors. Make such good money bro you gotta be a surgeon to make babknif you're smart
Surgeon> *working 80 hours a week, get 200-300k*
If inwas working 80 hours a week I'd be making 250k too but fuck that","attachment":null,"posted":1715228530},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797341,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2797331
Pretty dim unless you go pipe or underwater.
Friction stir and laser robots really killed your production prospects
I used to be a d1.1 structural welder but America doesn’t really construct shit out of steel much anymore.
So I picked up 6G tig in aluminum for custom fabrication for hot rod shops back in college, but those jobs are few and far between
I switched careers to being a cnc machinist but I’m going to be real with you man this trade is dying, 3d printing is coming up and killing job shops left and right
By the way we probably worked together,idk a lot of stuff for Disney and Netflix production side as a day job.","attachment":null,"posted":1715228648},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797350,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793185
>you'll always find CNC work
this is true. My work needs woodworking CNC done and every shop is flooded with work and has to hire new people and so on","attachment":null,"posted":1715229567},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797357,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794463
move to Canada we are building 300,000 houses/year for the 2 million Punjabis/year that our Prime Minister makes immigrate
no carpenter is ever out of work here","attachment":null,"posted":1715230094},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797364,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795224
Tbh most manual machinists learn bad habits and refuse to break them, one old geezer at my job would ONLY program conventional tool paths at very slow speeds like he was hand cranking that shit or using a power feed.
Wouldn’t do aggressive rough cuts or g52 multiple parts per bar
Most cnc guys can also machine manually most manual guys cant program with gcode
It’s like most college students that use Microsoft word can hand write but your grandparents that never learned computers can’t use word but can only hand write
“But they have more experience and have been doing it longer” it still takes your grandparents several hours to write, seal and ship an envelope… a young guy that sends emails all day can also write seal and ship a letter faster than an old man with bad habits and a slow process
He’s just been doing it slow for 40 years","attachment":null,"posted":1715231709},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797367,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2797350
A machinist is lost in cnc wood routing o and cabinet making
Most of the tools a machinist buys and is heavily invested in are from mitutoyo…
Too tight tolerances to use on a piece of oak custom cabinet
And we run oily and coolant soaked Milwaukee to deburr not pristine festool to install custom built ins
It would be like asking a mechanic to install your hvac, sure it will probably get done but will it be up to code and as efficient as if a guy who went to an hvac certification program could do it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715231918},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797341
Sorry to hear that. I’m in eastern Ontario. Did you work on Hilda, Kid Cosmic or Centaurworld? I worked on those in Ottawa. But yeah thanks for the honesty.","attachment":null,"posted":1715232514},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797398,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796863
That's right! I can fix cars, I've driven one before without crashing afterall","attachment":null,"posted":1715249536},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794356
>=EIGHT= years? I've seen some where they wanted ten, for an entry wage of $12.00/hr.
no you haven't","attachment":null,"posted":1715251589},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
I'm 22, im a felon, I recently went and got my epa 608 certs for HVAC but never went and looked for someone to hire me because I can't stand being told to fuck off for the felony. I want to do a trade, im in between 2 cities in north western NC.","attachment":null,"posted":1715269420},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797710,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2797372
Read my last two major productions were avatar to end one of the Kingsman movies I forget which one 3 or fourth I’m not really a huge fan and we got some like marvel movies coming out
We did the Netflix Barack Obama thing","attachment":null,"posted":1715303404},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797799,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797489
What did you even do?","attachment":null,"posted":1715321277},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797811,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797489
Brother, until you have some time (like 5-7 years) after your conviction nobody is going to be able to insure you to drive a van anyway. You will be hauling your ass where you need to go and doing install.
>>2795245
The parents of the boomers ruined the trades, then boomers did nothing but make it even worse.","attachment":null,"posted":1715328856},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794463
lol washington is going to be hit very hard in the next building recession. IBEW killed any hope of new factories being built and the other craziness in the state is making California of all places more competitive for industry.","attachment":null,"posted":1715329017},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
Ain't working those hours, at that pay, with those people.","attachment":null,"posted":1715336176},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
>high paying trade jobs","attachment":null,"posted":1715357940},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2797962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is it still worth it to be a union electrician bros? college dropout here","attachment":null,"posted":1715359968},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798011,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">spent 2 weeks and probably 120 hours designing and machining a part for a customer
>barely finish at the deadline but finished part looks good, it's an assembly of 4 parts I made
>boss stops me as I'm finishing the paperwork to send the sample to the customer
>tells me he's just gonna outsource production to China because it's 1/3 the price vs making the whole order here
>tells me it's just gonna get redesigned in china as well to fit their machinery
>tells me I did a good job and I can keep the sample I made as a souvenir
This was my first big project and it's just for nothing because China can do the same thing cheaper. I don't know how we can compete","attachment":null,"posted":1715368449},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798022,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798011
>spend 120 hours toiling on some widget
>sure hope I get my normal rate of $200 per hour for this prototype
>chinaman comes in and agrees to do the same work for $20/hour
Show us your souvenir. Also, its because you're looking to profit this month. Chinse are fine profiting next year.
>inb4 its some top secret part that'd instantly identify who you are and who the company is you made it for.","attachment":null,"posted":1715370770},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798022
>Chinse are fine profiting next year.
More like Chinese are fine just not profiting. The government subsidizes production at a loss just to keep people employed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715371130},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798030,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798027
Shut up boomer. Yes, the Chinese government does subsidize some things, it doesn't subsidize every fucking thing ever made there. Show us the part.
>I don't know how we can compete
You compete through government favoritism by adding gigantic tariffs to anything imported from china, OR you actually make your part good enough that China can't compete on quality and consistency. They can push a button on a CNC machine just the same as you can in the US. What makes your US-made product better?
And BTW, tariffs aren't the solution for much because it generally just makes normal shit more expensive (while the government gets more tax dollars) and nobody makes a similar or cheaper alternative locally. This is plainly evident when Trump added a 25% tariff on all chinese junk. Washing machines, refrigerators, and other consumer garbage went up 30-40% nearly overnight. Because of NAFTA some shit is made in mexico (again where labor is cheaper) but the chinese and koreans still make it cheaper and better than Jose in Guadalara.","attachment":null,"posted":1715371862},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798030
No that is what they literally do. It is a way to keep their workforce employed. Even a 1% jump in the unemployment rate is tens of millions of people out of work.
https://sccei.fsi.stanford.edu/china-briefs/do-government-subsidies-promote-productivity-growth-china
https://www.globaltimes.cn/page/202308/1296432.shtml
https://eastasiaforum.org/2022/06/08/the-real-victims-of-chinas-subsidies/
https://www.scmp.com/economy/china-economy/article/3247705/chinese-city-offers-firms-six-figure-subsidies-keep-fires-burning-new-year-holiday
https://www.ft.com/content/f1976615-370c-46bf-8919-17a26e03a11d
Don't even try and view it from a western centered view because you aren't going to get it. They keep people employed to keep their government and society functioning, the product is secondary to the jobs program now. Multiple times over the last 20 years they kept industries humming past their expiration date to keep the workforce from becoming a gigantic anti-social army. Quality may or may not be good depending on the factory, but they definitely are getting subsidies to keep functioning.","attachment":null,"posted":1715372526},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798036,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798033
SHOW US THE PART YOU WORKED ON, YOU DILDO
>No that is what they literally do.
The US does that too, whats your point?","attachment":null,"posted":1715373217},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798043,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">You have 30 years experience, more certifications than the entire crew combined, and all of the tools all of us will ever need? Best I can pay you is 4 dollars a job.
>wow nobody wants to work trades!","attachment":null,"posted":1715374201},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798069,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798022
It's just a tool holder with a collet that steps down in sizes to firmly hold drills. It isn't something I would've bought myself but the customer has a specific use for it","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715376938750447.jpg","filename":"1715376096596-min.jpg"},"posted":1715376938},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798074,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798069
Very strange ask to have a local company make a pin vise when they're made all over the world in factories every day. It really took you 2 weeks and 120 hours to replicate what is already made for kinda cheap every day?","attachment":null,"posted":1715377348},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798082,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798074
I was confused they wanted a machine shop to make this as well, but they wanted specific sizes it stepped down to that I guess wasn't available elsewhere. And it should've taken 3 days, certain things proved to be a challenge","attachment":null,"posted":1715378137},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798858,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793709
ladders are the most dangerous part of any job and those aren't going anywhere. so long as you have to get up high to build something, that job is dangerous.","attachment":null,"posted":1715537322},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798862,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797962
I started the union apprenticeship last august, I've been loving it so far. got put with a contractor doing industrial work and i feel very fortunate to get to work with a lot of the shit i have gotten to put my hands on. The people have been great, a mixed bag all around but not many assholes. My employer pays 12% on top of my hourly wage into my 401k on top of credits i earn towards a pension as well as health/dental/life insurance. Just be prepared to drive wherever they send you, which can be a long fucking drive if your local is big.","attachment":null,"posted":1715538281},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798074
There is very good reason depending on specs. The cheap ones are cheap due to economies of scale. They requirea similar amount of setup but the cost of the setup is paid off over hundreds or thousands of units.
Consider a quote to custom machine a pin vise. They'll have CAD time, CAM time, tooling setup time, they have to order a suitable amount of round bar (which may not be available in short lengths and if so they get to buy X number of feet). The shop will have to machine and inspect a sample, adjust their machining center as required etc. If they have an older turning center they have to turn the cylindrical parts then chuck them in an indexer to machine the splines on a milling center etc.
Suddenly that pin vise has a shitload of labor and time involved.
>>2798082
The "challenges" were not obvious to the customer but that innocent looking pin vise has far for work involved than what a lay person would instantly notice, like machining the jaws. It's a very nice looking pin vise. Is the pocket clip custom too? If so that's a bunch more work than final finishing.","attachment":null,"posted":1715538463},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793709
>People that "ruin their bodies" work too many hours
Bodies get ruined either way (oldfag here) but that can be accelerated. Humans aren't designed for prolonged standing. We evolved to be pretty much like apes including how they spend most of the day. That's why comfortable shoes or boots are critical as are work mats where practical. (Horse stall mats work well but the work mats with many drain holes are best for machining so coolant, semen etc can sit low and be less slippy.)","attachment":null,"posted":1715538689},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798891,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798864
>Suddenly that pin vise has a shitload of labor and time involved.
Thanks for elaborating on my point; when there are cheap ones and good ones already in full production, why would you call up some random machine shop to make you one then decide to buy the cheap chinese ones? Tolerances isn't the reason.","attachment":null,"posted":1715542723},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798909,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798036
>The US does that too, whats your point?
Not to the scale that China does. We don't defend industry or jobs nearly as aggressively as China.
>SHOW US THE PART YOU WORKED ON, YOU DILDO
Good lord are you retarded. I'm not giving you my product or designs on an anon forum. I'll just say it is ITAR controlled so other than a quick glance at what it would cost to have China manufacture it, the Federal Government wasn't going to trust chinese aluminum.","attachment":null,"posted":1715546458},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798912,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798909
>We don't defend industry or jobs nearly as aggressively as China.
We do, you're just not aware of it. How about the aforementioned chicken taxes, tax loopholes for every company out there to effectively pay zero taxes, how about major shit the US government will flat out restrict export to china, or import from them? You've been on /pol/ for too long if you think the chinese government flat out controls and gives 99% subsidies to everything there.
>I'll just say it is ITAR controlled
>I'll just make something up so my gay little widget doesn't get laughed at
Unless you're the second anon that claims to have worked 120 hours on something then the bidder went to cheap chinese shit anyway, why would you toss in the US federal government wwouldn't trust chinese aluminum from there, but we'd use chinese aluminum here anyway? You're larping dude.","attachment":null,"posted":1715546682},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2798914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798912
You're not allowed to have a business in ch9na without having the government on your board and giving half of your manufacturing to the PLA.
But it's okay bro, I got you. You're really saying fuck communism","attachment":null,"posted":1715546962},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799040,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798864
There were no jaws, every part was done on a swiss machine. The clip was bought on Amazon. Sheet metal fabricators didn't want that job.
The thing the blew me away when making the collet was when the slitting saw came in and cut the piece into fours, the part shrank. The first hole was 0.020" smaller, second hole was 0.010" smaller, third hole was 0.005" smaller, and the OD was 0.010" smaller. Had to change all my drills out multiple times and modify my program to make it finally work right. when all my drilled holes came out undersized I was confused as fuck though
>>2798891
The customer didn't make the decision to go to a Chinese manufacturer. My boss sends some of our work over to China to increase profit.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715574821933236.jpg","filename":"1715573920317.jpg"},"posted":1715574821},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799053,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Entry level trade work pays less than just flipping burgers or delivering pizzas, despite being way harder and more dangerous, and usually with way shittier coworkers who are pissed off about their ex-wife or that they're 50-60 and still doing manual labor. Hmm it's a real mystery","attachment":null,"posted":1715576640},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"something that really sucks about construction/trades is that everyone thinks money is all that matters. I understand that the boss just wants the job done ASAP so he can make more money, but for the guys actually doing the shit, I'm not about to jog around on the site or do stupid shit literally putting lives on the line just to get the job done faster. People act like it's life or death all the time but man it's really not that big a deal, how about we slow down a little bit, get the job done right, and everyone goes home safely. But I've never seen that and I'm starting to wonder if it even exists.
Crazy to me how guys getting paid hourly will just swallow the boss balls and ask for more, acting like they're tough guys because they have a bottomless stomach for eating shit that really doesn't need to be eaten. yeah sometimes it's necessary to stay late or take risks or really push it to the limit, but usually it's not, it's just the boss or the corporation training these people like fuckin dogs","attachment":null,"posted":1715577569},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799061,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">wake up at 4 am to be at work by 6 (hour and a half commute both ways)
>shit pay for five years until you can take your journeyman test
>hard on your body
>work with some of the most retarded niggers you have ever met
construction lifestyle sucks ass, even if the work is fun and fulfilling. this was my experience as a commercial electrician","attachment":null,"posted":1715577749},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799076,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799059
Then they'll do shit in the dum est way instead of pausing and reading the manual and doing it the right way.
I saw dudes install 20 fiber hubs with the door facing the wrong way so you couldn't open. It. All they had to do was read the manual and install the clamp on the correct fucking side.","attachment":null,"posted":1715579993},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799061
>hard on your body
kills me how older, experienced dudes who can't hear shit, can't stand up straight, and can barely breathe are always in the biggest hurry to get shit done and don't care about anyone's safety, not even their own. call me a bitch but I think it's possible to get shit done without putting anyone's life or health on the line in 99% of situations, even if it takes a bit longer. We're not building a last ditch fortification against an enemy invasion here. sometimes it's not the older guys though, it's the younger guys who are desperate to impress them (by showing everyone that they care about this job more than their own lives)
just cool it, dude. slow down and do it nice or do it twice. but of course that means less money for the top dog so it aint cool","attachment":null,"posted":1715581227},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799269,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2791783
>pay for training
>low wages and overworked (mexicans work for slave labor so you should too heehee)
>boom bust job cycles (just learn to code bro)
>toll on the body","attachment":null,"posted":1715627128},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799271,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">average tradie makes like $60k lmfao
>come on the internet and brag about their cousin’s wife’s buddy’s roommate’s brother-in-law who makes $300k a year as a plumber in Alaska
I’m so fucking glad I went to school. Every time I get a raise I thank God I was smart and got a degree, then I go back to sitting at a desk scrolling 4chan and making more than 90% of tradetards.","attachment":null,"posted":1715627547},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799335,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why does it seem like getting into the trades in the states is a terrible idea but at the same time is one of the best and most direct ways to make a lot of money in Canada and Aus? Is it immigration? Out of everyone I graduated highschool with the only people that own houses and have more than one kid are all tradesmen. I live in Vancouver for context.","attachment":null,"posted":1715638511},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797357
Not a bad idea either actually. The moment your fiance crosses the border they're in Surrey and that is jeetland, developments and work everywhere. And trust me, they will pay, when it comes to building a new home they don't give a shit.","attachment":null,"posted":1715639578},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799059
absolutely agree. It comes down to what you're doing
when I lived in oregon I worked for a small (9 plumbers, ~5 apprentices/laborers), privately owned business. guy that ran it bid lots of remodels and repipes and also gas work, profit margins on the jobs were always huge and he never rushed anybody and did everything he could to make sure things were done to the highest quality and safe
hourly rate to customer on average was $190 and plumber makes ~$55
apprentice laborer easily gets 25~ if he's able to make the plumbers life easier and can get up to 40 if he learns everything the licensed plumber knows, proves himself, and can get jobs done without supervision
now i work in florida on new construction with a bigger company(100+) and the profit margins are shit, my company makes 15000 on a million dollar house from start to finish. that covers underground work, rough in, trim, all the supplies(nearly 10k) and rates for employees
minimum of 60 hours labor, average is probably 100 with all the punch work and oversight processes
we charge the same hourly rate of 190$
but none of these guys can get paid 30$/hr, companies refuse and then complain they can't find help, etc
most plumbers are paid piece rate, meaning like 20$ a fixture on a job. which can be great pay if you work fast
so anyway if you want to have a good experience and be proud of your work, stay small and privately owned","attachment":null,"posted":1715640444},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799407,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2799271
Average journeyman tradie, 99% of these dudes are apprentice or helpers working towards their journey card which they won’t get for like 10 years
They’ll get 60k once they get their own apprentice","attachment":null,"posted":1715651383},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799437,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799335
Do they own their own business?
I'm in the US and literally every self-employed contractor I know is making bank.","attachment":null,"posted":1715658644},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799079
and if you speak up you're a pussy that's never worked a day in his life","attachment":null,"posted":1715660416},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799500,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799442
Poor bastards learned at some point "that's just how it is" and just accepted it and dealt with it","attachment":null,"posted":1715674255},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799504,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Problems around trades don't seem to be unique to trades.
>middle management mis-management
>problems working for large companies vs smaller companies
>problems working for others v yourself and the side-skills necessary to do that
>problems of scale of job projects
>grey/black market competition","attachment":null,"posted":1715674999},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799504
Yeah, but in most other areas, nobody gets killed or maimed if you fuck up","attachment":null,"posted":1715675099},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Can confirm everything in this thread. Work for a roofing contractor in the SW for about a year. Contractor Is a Gen X hardo that treats everyone like dirt. No one cares about anything except sticking their hand out and saying “pay me”. All the labor is undocumented migrants. Almost all of them try their best and work hard. But at the end of the day there is a difference between working hard, and skilled labor that cares about quality and can actually comprehend English. The gap for skilled labor is huge right now. There are 1000 migrants want to work but no white kids with common sense. The white kids that do get hired get treated like dirt and leave, and the migrants are just trying to get paid but that’s all they’re good for. You have no idea how bad it is. I have had people literally tell me “you have no idea how many companies we called and you guys were the only one who answered the phone and spoke English which is why we hired you”. The bar is so low for people to come into trades and make money right now. You don’t even need a license, clients are that desperate.","attachment":null,"posted":1715690554},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799541,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799537
>No one cares about anything except sticking their hand out and saying “pay me”.
Because at the end of the day everyone in trades every laborer has been shorted on a job. Some foreman claiming you did a bad job, a general flat out not having money to pay them, or some other bullshit. I had one where 2 subs had the same name and the general paid 1 of them 4 times for the work the other one did, then pointed at the other guy saying get the money from him. Its fucked how in today's world of instantaneous payment between cell phones is possible, but some contractors can't figure out the simple shit like paying people and getting paid.
>you guys were the only one who answered the phone and spoke English which is why we hired you
Thats like 50% of the job. Just answer the phone, show up on time. The other half is just doing good work like you promised. Its literally that simple.
>but they treat me bad!
Thats your leverage. If they want to treat you like shit you can decline work from them and let them deal with Jose and Ignacio trying to figure out the job. Thats when another general picks you up and pays you your worth and does everything he can to keep you.","attachment":null,"posted":1715691778},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799622,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799437
A couple do but the rest are union guys. The two that do own their own businesses make a ton. Always offering work to people too. Overall, I just think we have it better in Can or Aus if you're in the trades.","attachment":null,"posted":1715707521},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799505
it wasnt meant to belittle, just explain that its problems are the same found anywhere and need the same attention.","attachment":null,"posted":1715724339},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799807,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do you tuck your shirt into you pants? And tuck your pants into your boots? I've been considering dressing better for work because I hate seeing my coworkers and boss in t shirts and shorts with sneakers at work. It looks like you don't care imo","attachment":null,"posted":1715736143},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799820,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799807
Why the fuck does it matter what I wear to work tho?
I actually DON'T care, I'm here to get paid.","attachment":null,"posted":1715737460},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799846,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799807
I tuck my shirt into my pants because I dress like an old man. pants in the boots only happens with rain boots though, I would never bother doing that on regular work boots. After a few minutes on the job they're going to slip out anyway. I doesn't matter because no one is looking at your feet.","attachment":null,"posted":1715742359},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799861,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799807
I tuck my shirt in because I don't want to show off my ass.
Never heard of tucking pants into boots. That's weird. I've taped them down to my boots when I walked through some tall tick infested grass or poison oak.","attachment":null,"posted":1715746927},{"board":"diy","thread":2791783,"pid":2799889,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798912
>Unless you're the second anon that claims to have worked 120 hours on something then the bidder went to cheap chinese shit anyway, why would you toss in the US federal government wwouldn't trust chinese aluminum from there, but we'd use chinese aluminum here anyway? You're larping dude.
ITAR control issue. Notice how you didn't even bother to read what I wrote. Aerospace part. Really boring mundane shit too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715754993}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does anyone else feel intense amounts of rage when watching one of these DIY shows as much as me?
I'm a pretty laidback guy, but these shows make me want to assault women and fags.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714409704971302.jpg","filename":"fixer-upper.jpg"},"posted":1714409704},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
>Does anyone else feel intense amounts of rage when a retarded OP imbecile thinks everyone watches the same stupid shit he watches?
>I'm a pretty laidback guy, but posts like this make me want to assault fags like OP","attachment":null,"posted":1714410076},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793344,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793342
>Doesn't have family who watches this shit and comes to you with hairbrained ideas about remodeling their McMansion.
Must be lonely.","attachment":null,"posted":1714410537},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
I don't watch them, at all. Why would you? They are not technical training, they're distraction for bored housewives of many genders.","attachment":null,"posted":1714410612},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
What is it about shiplap that reinforces your homosexuality?","attachment":null,"posted":1714432277},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793560,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
>couple with contracting business work with non DIY clients to buying and remodel homes
>create successful cable show to promote business, become professional media stars
> start a lifestyle brand catering to people who will pay for farmhouse chic crap rather than DIY going to a thrift store, become professional home furnishings and lifestyle product moguls
> lifestyle brand is so successful it launches its own cable network
>new cable network replaces The DIY Network, become cable TV network moguls
>muh DIY","attachment":null,"posted":1714435849},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793583,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
>these shows make me want to assault women and fags.
so.... don't watch them? seems simple enough.","attachment":null,"posted":1714439460},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793537
He wants picrel and that big hammer to case his opening","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714441121314185.jpg","filename":"Scan_20160520_35_1024x1024.jpg"},"posted":1714441121},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793903,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
I don't watch those shows, but I feel same as you on those two, just from commercials several years ago. She's an obvious psychopath, and he, a cucked faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1714509165},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2793967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
what's wrong? do you not dry pour your off-grid barndominium shipping coop-tainer permaculture garden, or are you scared to use muriatic acid without gloves? you probably even outsource hiring a mexican to mow your lawn ya fuckin boomboom","attachment":null,"posted":1714517089},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">needing a reason to feel murderous rage
Faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1714524099},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794050,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793344
I've been saying "hair brained ideas" lately too","attachment":null,"posted":1714532702},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794096,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
her face is so weird, it's like looking at a horrific car wreck
bet her butthole stanks tho","attachment":null,"posted":1714540034},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">he doesn't watch Bob Vila kino
Pathetic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714578362124069.jpg","filename":"R(167).jpg"},"posted":1714578362},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794281,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"The OG rage-inducing DIY show: Trading Spaces
Nothing else can compare to the amount of destruction these "designers" did to these people's homes.
I legitimately believe the whole point was for frenemies to passive-aggressively fuck each others' shit up.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714579099208073.jpg","filename":"trading-spaces.jpg"},"posted":1714579099},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794311,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794272
bob vila's a dildo, new yankee workshop is where it's at","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714583726670099.png","filename":"Untitled.png"},"posted":1714583726},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794311
>new yankee workshop
qrd?","attachment":null,"posted":1714584869},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794321
think bob ross but for carpentry, more along the lines of furniture building than home improvement projects.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-Q78z7luTw","attachment":null,"posted":1714585726},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794272
>>2794311
Pfft. "Electricity".
get on my plane, amateurs.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714589826611958.jpg","filename":"woodwrights shop.jpg"},"posted":1714589826},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794354
Yessssss","attachment":null,"posted":1714593086},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794354
>>2794272
y'all need to figure your shit out
this is where it's at","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714597286185172.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714597286},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794402,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794399
Sir, we are comparing WOODWORKING shows, not ROCKET DOCTOR shows. Dr Green PHD uses aerospace grade DUCT TAPE.","attachment":null,"posted":1714597466},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
I don't know who these two are but a lot of the slop my wife watches makes my blood boil, so yes. I don't delude myself by thinking I'm laid back though. with friends I make a lot of jokes and laugh a lot etc, but I'm a very angry person inside.","attachment":null,"posted":1714599884},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794450,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794354
>get on my plane
I see what you did there.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714603682939792.jpg","filename":"wink.jpg"},"posted":1714603682},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794281
What's the one with the 2 gay brothers or whatever, trying to find the right house for a young straight couple and their child?","attachment":null,"posted":1714603839},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794461,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793344
Oh lord this boils my blood. I'd have family members frequently interject with ideas.
>Who's doing 100% of the work and spending 100% of the money? Me, that's who, so I don't want to fucking hear it.
I said it more politely but that's the gist of it.
With my wife now, it's impossible for her to get excited about projects, especially if they cost real money, so at least I don't have to hear nattering about any hairbrained ideas.","attachment":null,"posted":1714604345},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794483,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
I don't know what you think laid back means if watching a tv show can make you want to commit hate crimes","attachment":null,"posted":1714607842},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794499,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794483
have you watched any modern tv?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714611358344442.jpg","filename":"1707879428038108.jpg"},"posted":1714611358},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794354
>if you like jigs, then you're gonna love this episode","attachment":null,"posted":1714659903},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794742,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
No. My wife and I love these shows. (Watching Rock the Block right now). Some of them spend a ton of money on superfluous or poor ideas that only work with their specific staging, but some of the things they build are kind of cool. I like pausing at certain points to get a look at various carpentry aspects, since I have never framed a room/window/slide between floors myself. It is also fun to see the visible mistakes they make and their clients don’t catch because they don’t know any better, such as making large planter boxes with 3/8 plywood and a Brad nailer, or not putting green board behind their sauna walls. It is a good reminder that even “pros” have their weak points and even if you have something contracted out you should still know how to do the job yourself so that you can check their work.","attachment":null,"posted":1714669974},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794790,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794455
It's called "The One That Isn't A Hetero White Couple Where He Wears Flannel Shirts, Or A Black Couple Where She's Sassy"","attachment":null,"posted":1714680000},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794791,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794742
You need to get your wife watching youtube DIY shows. There's plenty of female ones who actually know their shit and it's not some lame performative gay glorified interior designer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714680283},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794795,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794499
checked","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714681332166886.jpg","filename":"asdf.jpg"},"posted":1714681332},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2794830,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
>>2793340
You sounds like a fuckin' nut to me.","attachment":null,"posted":1714687712},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2795030,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793967
Wat?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714729568850488.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240503_114535_Chrome.jpg"},"posted":1714729568},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2795058,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"The quintessential homeowner knocking a hole in their drywall with a sledgehammer scene. Always makes me cringe. Everyone always asks to come help me demo a house because it looks so fun. I tell them it's fun for about 10 minutes then it's just work. Especially if you're remediating fire or flood damage, having shitty soot rain down all over you for eight hours sure is a blast","attachment":null,"posted":1714741606},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2795143,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794016
>needing a reason to assault women and fags
OP is truly a lost cause.","attachment":null,"posted":1714759090},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2795269,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795058
>knocking a hole in their drywall
At least that's an actual thing; usually it's taking a few limp wristed tentative slaps at a kitchen cabinet door with a sparkling new sledge hammer while wearing equally pristine and unblemished goggles and hardhat and an unbuttoned color coordinated short sleeve polyester "work" shirt over your street clothes.
Don't forget to add in the jaunty, quick paced royalty free "getting to work!" background music.","attachment":null,"posted":1714786693},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2797312,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
Just don't watch. It's not healthy to expose yourself intentionally to things that stress you out.","attachment":null,"posted":1715224639},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2799069,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793340
For me it’s that entire channel. The commercials that come up in between the unrealistic segments make my inner Fuhrer come alive with rage.
>black couple
>audi commercial","attachment":null,"posted":1715578689},{"board":"diy","thread":2793340,"pid":2799244,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799069
>black
>audi
I mean in Europe they are meant for Turks and Albanians. So who do you think they are marketing in US?","attachment":null,"posted":1715623841}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2793525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"should I just keep buying red wings? might try some georgia boots or some thorogoods for the first time.
press f to show respect","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714431255061977.jpg","filename":"Imagepipe_0.jpg"},"posted":1714431255},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2793531,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"F","attachment":null,"posted":1714431880},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795440,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
I want that rude for but now I prefer to buy steel-toed rubber boots. At least I can get them on and off quickly to get stuff out of my shoes and socks, or change my socks cuz they're wet with sweat halfway through the day","attachment":null,"posted":1714834506},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795498,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795440
What steel toed rubber boots do you prefer?","attachment":null,"posted":1714842568},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795499,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
Danner","attachment":null,"posted":1714842794},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
Stop buying Redwings. Their quality has gone to shit in the last 15 years. Even more so with Georgia.
Get the pry bar out and open your wallet for real, handmade boots from Spokane. I had Franks Boots make me a boot to my specs a few years back and they're the most comfortable, durable boots I've ever owned. Even their budget brand is better than anything you can buy from Redwing.
https://franksboots.com/collections/the-patriot","attachment":null,"posted":1714843959},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795521,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
I recommend Doc Martens. I got the 'For Life' program. I bought two pair. All told it cost about 600 bucks. But even though you can't buy the For Life boots anymore, they still honor the agreement for pairs already sold and registered.
When one pair wears out, you box 'em up, pay the shipping, mail them back. In a week, they deliver you a new pair of comfy, professional boots: Rinse and repeat.
I haven't had to buy boots in almost a decade. I have truly never worn better boots. I wear them everyday.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714845988954104.jpg","filename":"4000.jpg"},"posted":1714845988},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795595,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795506
Those heals look a little high for my taste.","attachment":null,"posted":1714857701},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
>/diy/
>doesn’t rear his own cows, skin, tan, treat, and cut his own leather
>doesn’t use esoteric cobbling techniques to fashion that leather into a high quality boot
the absolute state of this board","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714860048984580.jpg","filename":"IMG_5947.jpg"},"posted":1714860048},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795521
The soles on those things wear out faster than a snotty Kleenex. And that was when I was a kid in high school, not working job sites.","attachment":null,"posted":1714860943},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795621,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
this is /diy/ make your own dweeb","attachment":null,"posted":1714862651},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795595
The heels are high for a reason...it balances your weight between the ball, heel, and most importantly arch. Most boots have fuckall for arch support and dudes wonder why their feet fucking hurt.
The insides are entirely made of leather so, as you break them in, the leather forms to your feet. I have a couple of pairs, one that I literally call my slippers. They're that comfortable.","attachment":null,"posted":1714868178},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795662,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795506
These are like goth girl high heel boots and I’m not twink enough to pull them off","attachment":null,"posted":1714873425},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795774,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795643
nta, op here, but i only wear crepe soles, i hate anything with a heel. steel workers call it a "half inch heart attack" when your heel slips while working at height. just sucks they wear so quickly. agree on leather soles though, they form perfectly with your feet and end up being extremely comfortable after a few weeks.","attachment":null,"posted":1714909604},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2795779,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
Bought some Ariat steel toes on clearance for work a few months ago. I know they’re not the best but they seem to be holding up alright so far. Multiple coworkers have Thorogoods that lasted 3+ years but I can’t drop $300 on boots at the moment. Redwings seem hit or miss but mostly miss","attachment":null,"posted":1714912246},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2796979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
I bought second hand red wings 10 years ago and wear them all the time, some light cracking but otherwise the leather looks better than it ever has with occasional mink oil conditioning. Resoled twice, once re welted with genuine sole because I had worn through them too much and waited too long, and recently with a very similar sole as the genuine ones were too hard to source in my country. Incredibly comfortable and the patina would take a long time to replicate if I got a new pair, perhaps the quality has gone down in recent years though. I'd be happy owning these shoes forever and paying for resoles instead of new boots.","attachment":null,"posted":1715159977},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2797026,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795506
Correct answer. If you want real durability go to one of the PNW bootmakers (Franks, Nicks, Whites, etc). They're expensive but they'll last forever.","attachment":null,"posted":1715175105},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2797027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795779
isnt Ariat just chinaslop","attachment":null,"posted":1715175197},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2797044,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795506
this but I prefer nicks boots (nicksboots.com) or whites boots (whitesboots.com)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9z-xefA_iA","attachment":null,"posted":1715178495},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2797047,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797044
over time these are a better deal than buying $300 throwaway boots every few years. You buy them once and then pay ~100 for a resole when you need to, so you're "replacing" your boots for the price of some crap timberlands or whatever
they're also more durable in general because they make them better, and if you weld you can get them with fireproof stitching
on top of that they're far more comfortable because they're made exactly to your foot dimensions","attachment":null,"posted":1715178950},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799006,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
Thorogoods are better.","attachment":null,"posted":1715567168},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799068,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I swear by these.
I’m a software engineer.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715578473136717.jpg","filename":"IMG_0028.jpg"},"posted":1715578473},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799111,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've got a pair of white's hathorns
damn nice boots
also use obenauf's on your boots and they'll last a long time","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715594205029912.jpg","filename":"Obenaufs__10_of_17_580x@2x.jpg"},"posted":1715594205},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799133,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
>thorogoods
Pass, mine pulled out on the welt after a week. And they are a pain in the ass to warranty.","attachment":null,"posted":1715603663},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799135,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797044
Just be ware because their most profitable market now is hipsters, not loggers.","attachment":null,"posted":1715603780},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799133
I've never had trouble with Thorogoods, I'm on my second pair. Only reason I ditched my first set was they were from working in a chemical lab that I got laid off from, and I didn't want to risk bringing home contaminated boots (I'd usually change into them on-site. Oddly enough that was the first pair that I had that ever survived chemical solvents and corrosives for more than a year.","attachment":null,"posted":1715605785},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799235,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799135
Yup. Thats why I went with Franks. They make the least "fancy lad" boots out of any of the PNW boot makers.
So as far as I know Whites was the original Spokane boot maker. Nicks was spun off in the 60's from the foreman of Whites. Then, years later, Franks was created by the foreman of Nicks. White's quality has gone down a bit since they're now owned by a huge Japanese shoe conglomerate.
Wesco is good too down in Oregon.
>>2799068
Yeaaaaaaaaa. I work in mining. Those would be destroyed in a month.
>>2799111
Obenaufs LP is the shit.","attachment":null,"posted":1715622127},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799243,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795440
>rubber boots
>socks are wet with sweat halfway through the day
Puzzling.","attachment":null,"posted":1715623756},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799855,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793525
Do they still come with a lifetime warranty? I thought redwings would replace or repair them if they got fucked up like that.","attachment":null,"posted":1715745745},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799235
I'm a field biologist.
I spend about 75-80 hours a month bushwhacking through deadfall, through swamps, kicking branches out of the way, hiking over boulders.
Going on a year with a pair of Danners and they look as good as new. They're more durable than you would think. Maybe not the best boot if you're in knee-deep mud all day I guess but otherwise surprisingly good.
Super comfortable too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715747532},{"board":"diy","thread":2793525,"pid":2799945,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799864
Concrete is what kills boots","attachment":null,"posted":1715777497}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792502,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why are quill stems and underappreciated diy item? They can be used to build all sorts of things yet nobody ever talks about this","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714258950979434.jpg","filename":"38095.jpg"},"posted":1714258950},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792502
>They can be used to build all sorts of things
Such as?","attachment":null,"posted":1714259277},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792505
Anything that requires two metal tubes to be joined at 90 degree angle","attachment":null,"posted":1714259462},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"can i make one myself? why shouldn't i just weld my metal tubes together at a 90 degree angle?","attachment":null,"posted":1714260020},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792631,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792502
https://www.amazon.com/Azarxis-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Bicycle/dp/B08F7FZQ8B/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xicTUhYiLsnVsQzLWGy4we6xhj_FpgD5zb9jNFDl9tyQwrDI7u0_BhegMgjOKoJG2Bgunnp60dY-rcSjFl20Nz3Axwt_UYtS6orYbk6zsK7GTfRP5Nyq2l06iy-hg9Hs63IIkiLEEG8eA1_lDljiwXSI_8tKh_K9k490_VFEEgIDOHCHf02fXSQ1mPX36GQLyrFbT72aEQrTsRyQelIt8mK-wHd2GVA_ARo4jmHz5FdxUo7vymAI8aRFBXVUz4MU8BqVyLtDATFP-FSKrMvmArEp3ENsTY2dpk23OcFKMjM.qeODLz615_WFtsqQ_46y_soSxI7MzYzJ0wl1bMa5m4M&dib_tag=se&keywords=adjustable%2Bbike%2Bstem&qid=1714278012&sr=8-15&th=1","attachment":null,"posted":1714279728},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2792663,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792631
wow thanks for the link","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714287867379509.jpg","filename":"1241084694445.jpg"},"posted":1714287867},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792663
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F7FZQ8B?th=1","attachment":null,"posted":1714358164},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793115,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792502
People who need a versatile construction set use 8020 t-slots or unistrut, not handlebar bicycle components.","attachment":null,"posted":1714366754},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793116,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">anon starts a scaffolding company using stolen bike parts","attachment":null,"posted":1714366960},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793355,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792505
chest piercer","attachment":null,"posted":1714412004},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793359,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793115
Dexion is classic and integrates nicely with unistrut.
>>2792502
Because they rely on friction not postive retention. What have YOU built using them? There's your answer.
Everything worth doing has mostly been done, but the ignorant avoid knowing why extremely common proven solutions are such then see something they don't fully understand and get excited.
Mentioning that everything worth doing has mostly been done so that can be used as a basic option set triggers noobtards who instead should learn basic principles. When it comes to metal construction positive retention of parts is generally desirable.
Quill stems are a very specific exception where friction confers adjustability under light loads and where misalignment during a crash is an advantage because the friction adjustment limits loads thus saving parts. Those are OTOH not good qualities in most non-bicycle construction.","attachment":null,"posted":1714412482},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793355
you mean a scrotum deglover?","attachment":null,"posted":1714413461},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"should i throw away my old bicycle
i was thinking at least the hex head bolts could be useful or the flatbar
feel like anytime you have to repurpose salvaged parts from somewhere it has to sit around for a long time that's why salvagers always have a big pile of stuff and the thing has to be designed around the salvaged thing","attachment":null,"posted":1714413758},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2793818,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793372
Yes, put a free sign on it and be done. Wise salvagers exist but we don't crave to save useless scrap.","attachment":null,"posted":1714496458},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794110,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Yeah, I'm gonna assume you're the same guy
>>>/n/1991611
>I need around 100 quill stems for a diy project
>Fails to elaborate
>Leaves for greener pastures (/diy/)","attachment":null,"posted":1714545469},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792502
I was thinking of using them for some shelving very recently. The idea was to build a scaffold of pipes held together with quill stems to hold up shelving boards. My city has some non-profit bike shops that sell used parts really really cheap.
Here's the problem: It's super hard to find two identical used quill stems. The distance from the handlebar clamp to the stem is all over the place and so is the diameter of handlebar they take. That's not an issue if you buy new ones, but there are cheaper ways to hold pipes together than brand new bike parts.","attachment":null,"posted":1714548580},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794138,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2792631
>tracking link
https://www.amazon.com/Azarxis-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Bicycle/dp/B08F7FZQ8B/","attachment":null,"posted":1714555726},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794120
>but there are cheaper ways to hold pipes together than brand new bike parts.
Such as?","attachment":null,"posted":1714559189},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794310,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794159
U bolts combined with angle brackets, or using threaded pipes that screw into fittings.","attachment":null,"posted":1714583699},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794915,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794159
Used scaffolding for one. Used Baker style scaffolds make nice mobile shelving. Scaffolds and their hardware are quite versatile.","attachment":null,"posted":1714699678},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2794948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794159
>>2794159
NTA but medical furniture like shower/ transfer seats, elevated commode chairs and stuff like walkers and crutches are usually available for cheap at thrift stores and yard sales, and have all kinds of tubing bends and telescoping click lock adjustable parts and brackets and such to be cannibalized, that are mostly in standard sizes and usually made of hard anodized structural aluminum.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714704591554789.jpg","filename":"6d5ad415-5b23-4f6f-a6de-f3506e57a9ec_1.575837e9621f007992e4a7930d52f335.jpg"},"posted":1714704591},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2796695,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793359
every bolt connection is supposed to rely on friction in at least two axis and at worst bolt tension in the third axis
this is one of the reasons for torque specs
if the bolt is getting sheared or bent or if the bolted material is getting cut by the bolt then it was engineered or assembled wrong","attachment":null,"posted":1715095884},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2796707,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hahaha this fag op asked where to find 100 free quill stems on /n/ and was ridiculed off the board","attachment":null,"posted":1715099392},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2797846,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793372
Nah still werks","attachment":null,"posted":1715342003},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2798543,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793372
You can use a front wheel to make a "Chinese wheelbarrow".
There's not a lot of English language info about it, so look up "Gametote". This particular thing uses a motorcycle wheel, but it's much the same idea--the load centered over the wheel.
And you could reuse the handlebars, brakes, and brake levers to have.... brakes.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715474005082949.jpg","filename":"20190408.In+the+Wild.john+bringing+bob+home+copy.jpg"},"posted":1715474005},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2798570,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798543
lol wtf people buy that? you could make that from two bicycle forks, four quill stems, and two metal poles","attachment":null,"posted":1715476854},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2798574,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798570
I love u quill stem anon","attachment":null,"posted":1715477292},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2800695,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798570
Not everyone has the equipment to weld the frame tubing etc. BTW a dual wheel like the Skedco stretcher takes more weight.
Note the angles of the tubing and how the frame works. Two forks won't make that. Best way by far is do what that maker did and use a stick of clean steel tubing cut and joined as they did. Take a closer look at the design. Easy to make with a welder and drill press though.","attachment":null,"posted":1715934410},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2800744,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800695
>Two forks won't make that
Yes they will. Quill stem in the steerer tube, metal tube in the quill stem where the handlebar would be, another quill stem onto that, now you have 360 degrees of rotation and can have the fork at any angle. More quill stems and tubes for the frame and it's done.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715949070873939.png","filename":"Untitled.png"},"posted":1715949070},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2802932,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800744
What stops all those friction clamp and expansion joints from shifting under load? Prayer?","attachment":null,"posted":1716366611},{"board":"diy","thread":2792502,"pid":2802964,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802932
Physics. Show me which joint can shift when every joint is opposed by an opposite force","attachment":null,"posted":1716378229}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"HVAC is for faggot.
all you need is a 2 holes on the wall, dust filter, and 2 fans (optional)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714456427172149.jpg","filename":"hvac.jpg"},"posted":1714456427},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793677,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
what you described is the V in HVAC, faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1714463450},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793727,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
Okay retard. What temperature are you experiencing right now? Are you satisfied with your temperature? That’s what I thought. Pussy.","attachment":null,"posted":1714475324},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793780,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"modern ameriFATs are too fat to live in 75% of their country's climate zones
>heat
lmao boomers heat a whole 3000 sqft house while using 1 room 99% of the time
>AC
ditto, gotta keep all 3000 sqft at 70F 35%RH all spring/summer, while only using 1 room during the day and 1 room at night LMAO
they don't do any physical labor whatsoever (no need to cool off after working), they don't exercise (no need to cool off after exercising) and they don't go outside ever (no need to warm up or cool off after being outside) so those excuses for indoor climate-control don't fly
total amerifat death","attachment":null,"posted":1714489896},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793923,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
All I need is the 2 holes on your mom.","attachment":null,"posted":1714511520},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2793969,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2793780
Man does this sound like a jelly yuro who suffered like crazy with the Yurop heat wave last summer and the call to prayer from the three mosques within a kilometer of your post-war concrete apartment bloc wrecking your peace and quiet six times a day","attachment":null,"posted":1714517916},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794058,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
2 only fans to watch your mom getting pounded in 2 holes.","attachment":null,"posted":1714533334},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
Yeah if you live in the top 1% of the world f pool r weather.
I do and my setup is 6x 120mm server fans in a line under a window.
A electronic thermostat allows me to set the temp and restart thresholds, and a buck converter lets me drop the voltage for less noise when it's cooler.
11.5 months of the year it is under my target temperature of 16c by sundown, so the fans just pressurize the room and force in cool air. Dust has never been an issue, it literally doesn't exist here","attachment":null,"posted":1714540529},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794655,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793727
>>2793969
oh, lil sissy NEED his cuckshed temp to be equal to his iq or he'll fucking die?
fuck off","attachment":null,"posted":1714654491},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794659,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
Hello police, this is an emegency! there's a black man outside my house and i think hes trying to break in. yes, it looks like he has some kind of weapon in his hand. I'm scared","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714655426417555.jpg","filename":"hello.jpg"},"posted":1714655426},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794785,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why do people lose their composure like this? Maybe it’s just one guy but there’s a theme of people on this board being outraged by any mention of HVAC workers. You got scammed, you’re a bitch, get over it. Being so transparently pissy is a dead giveaway that you got conned by some knuckle dragging tradie","attachment":null,"posted":1714679469},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794807,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
I'd be interested in learning about DIY HVAC but can't find the right resources. My use case is for keeping a 8m2 house ventilated. There is no electricity there, so I'd need a system that could be passive until I can get solar power there.","attachment":null,"posted":1714683241},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794816,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794807
>a 8m2 house
Nigga, that's called a shed.
>passive
open some windows","attachment":null,"posted":1714684463},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794816
The shed has a small window and the door nor the window can remain opened while I'm gone. If I can learn to duct a simple passive system, I can ensure the place always has quality air. Moreover, I've been thinking about
using the duct as a Canadian/Provençal well.","attachment":null,"posted":1714685764},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794655
Just because you are too poor to afford comfortability doesn't mean everyone is.","attachment":null,"posted":1714686187},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794834,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794826
>comfortability
comfort you fucking stooge. do you think syllables grow on trees","attachment":null,"posted":1714687839},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2794845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794834
>do you think syllables grow on trees
Ackchyually...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714690291527738.png","filename":"syllable tree.png"},"posted":1714690291},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2795124,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794826
You can say that again. Also he is to short minded to understand that there are places where you can't live comfortably without AC","attachment":null,"posted":1714755028},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2796556,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794826
you just say comfort, genius","attachment":null,"posted":1715046172},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2797882,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
>HVAC is for faggot.
Boomers sure love to hate on things they couldnt afford when they were younger","attachment":null,"posted":1715347575},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2797936,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"how else are the kikes suppised to make 500 an hour doing fuck all","attachment":null,"posted":1715355556},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2797969,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
>neighbor warms up diesel truck","attachment":null,"posted":1715361188},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2798266,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
HVAC is great untill you require a lawyer to renew your license every 2 years.","attachment":null,"posted":1715413242},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2798698,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793664
I don't undertand the hate on the hvac guys. I've worked in extremely hot shitty factories all my life. When I get home a sit in a crispy cool room, fuckin A, man. Cut the AC guy his check.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715508064410114.jpg","filename":"lawrence-office-space-4.jpg"},"posted":1715508064},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2798715,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798698
Its extremely overrated trade overpriced because of all the gatekeeping bs.","attachment":null,"posted":1715511255},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2798730,"name":"YoMamaFat","msg":">>2793677
>>2793727
>>2793969
The feeling when old people arguing.
>>2794807
Thermaltake brushless 200mm fan $14
Small solar panel $20
Converter from solar voltage to 13.8v (or 12) $10. (may not be needed - see below)
that's it, and wire.
The fan takes extremely little power. Even a 25w panel they sell all over TEMU will do. The flex ones that have 6 cells and a 12v dongle coming out of a black box on the back, have an internal regulator that knows how to charge a 12v lead acid. I've been doing that straight, mounted on a tractor hood w magnets, for years. You do not need the bullshit charge controller they offer to bundle with it. They just have no idea what they are selling.
It also comes with the barrel connectors and cables/wire, so you can skip the buying wire part too. Just that panel and the thermaltake fan. The fan comes in black, or clear with blue LEDs. Get the clear and delete the LED's. They just pop out of the socket.","attachment":null,"posted":1715515616},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2798825,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"that's what my father always says. but our country summer is 1 month and he works 1 week of that in AC room.","attachment":null,"posted":1715530150},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2800501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794807
HVAC school on YouTube is godtier, they show that guy in schools he's so good.
>t. hvac apprentice","attachment":null,"posted":1715889509},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2800512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798825
Hahaha fucking boomers","attachment":null,"posted":1715891333},{"board":"diy","thread":2793664,"pid":2800863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798730
That's an excellent proposal. I'll research about it. Thank you.
>>2800501
Thank you.
When I get around this project I'll post my project details, pictures, the BOM, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715971631}]}
{"title":"Where TF does a Japanon Buy Chemicals?","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I buy chemicals? I'm in Japan but these idiots are so uptight about everything it's damn near impossible. I've gotten most solvents I could reasonably need (barring tuolene) but nitric, hydrochloric, and sulfuric acid are all just straight up fucking banned. Best you can get without a permit is 10% of HCl/H2SO4 and 5% nitric acid. Like, it's insane. Yeah I could buy TEN LITERS and fractionally distill over a month (and probably kill myself in the process because retard fingers and earthquakes) but it would cost a stupid amount and take forever.
What companies ship to JP?? Even fucking chemsavers won't ship int, and most eurofag suppliers won't ship to JP.
What's worse is that even when they do ship, customs is basically guaranteed to fuck me over. The only places I've found domestic that sell anything at all are Matsuba on Amazon and Jikken-kun (hayashi chemical corp on monotaro won't sell to individuals). WTF do I do?
I really wanna get my hands on some thiourea but I can't find anyone who sells it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714464470507846.jpg","filename":"waifu.jpg"},"posted":1714464470},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Guess you have no choice but to make your own nitric acid from simpler to find ingredients.","attachment":null,"posted":1714470598},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793779,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
Toluene is banned in california. I bought some toluene a decade or so ago, and never used it it’s slowly evaporating.
So, you can go with things like drain cleaner, and some lead-acid batteries have a separate electrolyte pack you add to the battery when it’s time to use it for long term storage (sulfuric acid)
Also things like driveway etchants sometimes are muriatic acid as it’s known (hydrochloric acid).
I bought some nitric/phosphoric acid a few decades ago that was “efflorescence cleaner” — which is that white stuff that forms on bricks over time.
There’s a guy that was doing electroplating with what appeared to be drain cleaner in japan I saw not too long ago. It’s obviously got some other stuff in it, but it worked fine for the job.
It’s funny, I recently learned that samurai swords are actually banned in japan…. All this time I thought, like, everyone had one hanging over their fireplace.","attachment":null,"posted":1714489884},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793782,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"anon heres how
>make fake company
>envirotards don’t want company to dump chemical waste, so they force company to pay fees for proper disposal.
>you (the individual) come with your fake company and say that you’ll take barrels of their chemical waste for free
>any sane company would accept in a heartbeat
>if lucky you might get lots of sulfuric acid/etc or just a bunch of shitty methylamine","attachment":null,"posted":1714490941},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793860,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793782
> how much waste can you take?
> uh… one liter or so.
> ok, so we have about 5000 litres, so you’ll need to come back a few times
> uh… I mean “in total” not “at a time”
> …","attachment":null,"posted":1714503468},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2793868,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
she could mix her chemicals with mine, if you know what i mean.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714504266316460.jpg","filename":"1627017303023.jpg"},"posted":1714504266},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794018,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
the chemical store","attachment":null,"posted":1714524210},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794022,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"They're probably confused about why you need to use Kimiko","attachment":null,"posted":1714525560},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794087,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793860
This. It would not go well. At all.
>>2793779
Japan is strange. One of the first things you learn when you move abroad is that there is no "spectrum" on which different societies exist. Different places have different standards for different things. You can buy things here on Amazon that would result in a DEA raid in the US, but it's illegal for drain cleaner to have more than 9% H2S04. You can drink in public or private whenever and wherever you want, with extraordinary impunity, but a milligram of marijuana is "game over, do not pass go, do not collect 200". Like, I literally bought a liter of benzaldehyde and customs didn't bat an eye, but importing any quantity of *sodium hydroxide* (aka lye) is a criminal offense.
It's weird. I would've imagined that japananons, being as autistic as they are, would've had an in-group community of hobby chemists, but there's basically nothing on the internet about it. No chemistry youtubers (other than Genki lab but that's regarded), nothing on yahoo answers/chiebukuro. It's just straight up not a thing here. Or maybe it's underground and irl.","attachment":null,"posted":1714538322},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794111,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
>How do I buy chemicals? I'm in Japan but these idiots are so uptight about everything it's damn near impossible.
>>2794087
>It's weird. I would've imagined that japananons, being as autistic as they are, would've had an in-group community of hobby chemists, but there's basically nothing on the internet about it. No chemistry youtubers (other than Genki lab but that's regarded), nothing on yahoo answers/chiebukuro. It's just straight up not a thing here. Or maybe it's underground and irl.
Maybe because of
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aum_Shinrikyo","attachment":null,"posted":1714545593},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794115,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794087
>Like, I literally bought a liter of benzaldehyde
Are we just having out and out drug manufacturing threads now?","attachment":null,"posted":1714546693},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793705
Like air and electricity, truly one of God's greatest gifts.","attachment":null,"posted":1714560907},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794570,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794115
It's for perfumes and home liqueurs, actually.","attachment":null,"posted":1714626945},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
> monotaro won't sell to individuals
Get a business license","attachment":null,"posted":1714631534},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794683,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794087
Common chemical that got banned is probably due to public knee jerk of some psyco pour anything caustic on people's face after getting fired/dumped.","attachment":null,"posted":1714660465},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794750,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794087
>You can drink in public or private whenever and wherever you want, with extraordinary impunity, but a milligram of marijuana is "game over, do not pass go, do not collect 200".
As it should be, based.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714671780487187.png","filename":"a7a.png"},"posted":1714671780},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey, this is 99.99% something, no?
This is what I was talking about—using household ingredients that most people don’t think about using that have the chemicals in them.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714674087161185.jpg","filename":"FF73B333-101F-41B6-8CD0-E3F1C0D736B6.jpg"},"posted":1714674087},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794762
It says 99.99% nigger killed. Not 99.99% pure","attachment":null,"posted":1714679126},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794917,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
Britfag here, had the same problem. I joined a bunch of chemtuber discords and eventually found a few private chemical seller from like Poland and France.
Since your a nip I'd advise looking towards China.
Also agricultural suppliers are good. So look around locally.
Either do that or hire a lawyer and build a little LLC . File the proper paperwork and you'll be good to order all the mineral acids and weird reagents you want.","attachment":null,"posted":1714699742},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794924,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794917
FYI agri stores have all sorts of fun chemical.
Formaldehyde, zinc sulfate, calcium oxide, sulfuric acid. Just to name a few.","attachment":null,"posted":1714700429},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794927,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794750
drinking alcohol is nigger-tier","attachment":null,"posted":1714701057},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2794957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794783
Correct. It's just the standard 99.99% microbes murdered marketing. What's really weird is that I can't seem to find sulfuric acid based battery fluid. I don't think that's illegal, and I saw some fag on twitter post about it once, but I couldn't find the product itself anywhere.
Also just, distilling sulfuric acid scares the shit out of me and I'm man enough to admit that.
>>2794917
Can you drop your discord? I'd like to join those if you could. Apologies for the breach of decorum; I'm just really desperate at this point.
>>2794927
Smoking weed is nigger tier. Total dr00g death. Total nigger death. Fucking stockade any foreigner who does dr00gs. I like my perpetually drunk society.","attachment":null,"posted":1714706835},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796360,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794957
>distilling sulfuric acid
No need to distill it, just boil the battery acid outdoors in an appropriate container until the fumes coming off of it turn white. If the acid is used, it will be contaminated with lead, but can still be useful for many reactions (like making nitric acid).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgGhNfJfSK0","attachment":null,"posted":1715018371},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"MSR claims that camping fuel, white gas, is available in Japan. This is “Naphtha” for ameriboomers, and is somewhere around toluene or xylene. Naphtha is in the process of getting banned in the land of the “free” as well.","attachment":null,"posted":1715024756},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796552,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796405
Why? Too many woodfucker got their house burnt down for insurance fraud?","attachment":null,"posted":1715045537},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796552
Nah, you’d think something like that.
The purported reason is it has benzine rings and is a carcinogen.
I don’t believe it because it doesn’t make sense because of the health care situation, where health care providers have huge incentives to give people cancer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715059725},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796605,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So what reactions are tickling your brains right now? For me it's wood -> artificial vanilla (lignin -> vanillin)","attachment":null,"posted":1715060974},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796613,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796602
Nothing hurts us but our own choices.","attachment":null,"posted":1715063657},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Nigger nickel balls. Ambeed just hit me with the "akshually one of the thigns you ordered is halfway almost pseudo dangerous sooooooo we're charging $350 for shipping on your 85$ order now okay sweaty?"
Fucking hell, guys. pic unrel","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715080458946913.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-02-27 140431.png"},"posted":1715080458},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2796691,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
I think you can thank this guy for that","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715094554293529.jpg","filename":"f1bae622-6668-462c-982d-70fc14e8a9e9_6fd05e9c.jpg"},"posted":1715094554},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2798493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793779
>It’s funny, I recently learned that samurai swords are actually banned in japan…. All this time I thought, like, everyone had one hanging over their fireplace.
Kinda. Technically, blades that are made with traditional materials and methods are considered "works of art" or "cultural objects" and therefore not weapons; it's sort of like a gun being C&R eligible. Japan passed laws banning long blades in the 1950s because shin-gunto (those crappy mass produced swords made for the military in the 30s and 40s) were featuring pretty regularly in violent crime but swords as a whole were too culturally important to just do away with entirely so they left a loophole. Prices for "genuine nippon steel folded mirrion times" swords with the paperwork to prove it range from about ~$3400 USD for blades with marginal collector interest to millions of dollars for important artifacts and katana from well-known smiths (contemporary or otherwise) generally start at the price of a new car.
>>2793680
Japan is one of those places where the government reacts to notable incidents by banning shit and people tend to just accept it.
>Caustic chemicals get used during strikes and gang fights in the 60s-80s
Ding-dong bannu
>Aum Shinrikyo creates a giant sarin factory
Ding-dong bannu
>Man takes revenge on the ex-PM with homemade gunpowder
Ding-dong bannu.","attachment":null,"posted":1715466079},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2798505,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793779
Toluene is regulated not banned. Always always always read the law if you want to obtain chemicals.
>>2794570
Is that excuse viable? What other excuse might work better?
Hair straighteners and dyes are unusual enough that might work. There is a market for anime hair color. Is there already a brand that covers a very wide range? If not you might make some money.","attachment":null,"posted":1715467184},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2798634,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798505
> toluene not banned
It’s illegal even to *possess* toluene in the center of the world: california.
It’s not banned because it’s carcinogenic, it’s banned because they don’t want people to store any kind of fuel. Gasoline is carcinogenic, too, but part of the metallic additives turn it into a gel when exposed to oxygen so it’s not worth storing it.
Toluene white gas, xylene, naphtha, don’t have the additives, and they don’t want you to have them.","attachment":null,"posted":1715488513},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2798636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
www.freechemicalsforhomeuse.exe.com","attachment":null,"posted":1715488997},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2798638,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798634
If you wanna store gasoline for a long time just hit up your local small airfield and fill up some jugs with avgas. Shit lasts forever. I do it all the time for my racecar that has a highly strung out old carbed engine and needs high octane leaded fuel.","attachment":null,"posted":1715489263},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2799247,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793680
Make a hobby of building miniaturized chemical factories. Start with Haber process and work from there. Do it all electrically - press a button and chemicals start dripping. Have it all automated with Arduino. Use common feedstock like water and charcoal and air. Put it all on youtube with plans.","attachment":null,"posted":1715624243},{"board":"diy","thread":2793680,"pid":2799264,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798634
>it’s banned because they don’t want people to store any kind of fuel
No, it's banned because of muh meth labs.","attachment":null,"posted":1715626074}]}
{"title":"/ohm/ - Electronics General: New OP Edition","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Thread thermally drifted: >>2787618
>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.
Read the datasheet.
>OP source:
https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOP
>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:
https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics
>Project ideas:
https://hackaday.io
https://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
https://adafruit.com
https://makezine.com/category/electronics/
>Books:
https://libgen.rs/
>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic
Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Scherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors (arguably has minor issues with mains grounding)
Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics
>Recommended software tools:
KiCAD 6+
Circuitmaker
Logisim Evolution
>Recommended Components/equipment:
Octopart
LCSC
eBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)
Local independent electronics distributors
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html
>Most relevant YouTube channels:
EEVblog
W2AEW
Moritz Klein
>microcontroller specific problems?
>>>/diy/mcg
>I have junk, what do?
Shitcan it
>consumer product support or PC building?
>>>/g/
>household/premises wiring?
More rules-driven than engineering, try /qtddtot/ or sparky general first
>antigravity and/or overunity?
Go away
bake at page 10, post in old thread","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714558375764112.jpg","filename":"crustycircuit.jpg"},"posted":1714558375},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794183,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I just got an esp32","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714564224502588.png","filename":"1714564207454.png"},"posted":1714564224},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">on a factory tour
>see big cap and ask what they use it for
>"it's a motor brake, that one's faulty"
>say I like electronics and ask if I can have it as a showpiece since it's broken
>Sure! Do you want a working one too?
That's how I got pic related. I was trying to pinpoint the fault on the right one, but I measured capacitance and ESR with a scope and they're within tolerance of the spec sheet. That leaves leak resistance: how can I measure that?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714566195028448.jpg","filename":"1693544457793523.jpg"},"posted":1714566195},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794213,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">random devices just disconnect
>on one day it's stable, on another day it's acting like there's a loose connection
>trying multiple cables, nothing makes it reliable
>can't make cables too long because voltage will drop and the protocol can't deal with higher latencies anyway
>have to restart software reading from USB because reconnecting isn't a common concept
God why is USB so shit. Ethernet just works. Even if you disconnect it for a moment because you tripped over the cables, software can deal with it and continues as if nothing happened.","attachment":null,"posted":1714569825},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794224,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794213
>reconnecting isn't a common concept
what sort of garbage USB device doesn't reconnect when you run around and kick the cable loose.","attachment":null,"posted":1714571453},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794230,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794224
It does reconnect on the protocol and OS level. But software on layers above that doesn't normally reconnect. You run a terminal on n USB serial adapter? You have to restart it manually. Same problem if you have a temporary USB network interface. If it goes down, you have to reconfigure it unless you configured it as permanent interface.","attachment":null,"posted":1714571948},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794252,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794230
>You run a terminal on n USB serial adapter? You have to restart it manually. Same problem if you have a temporary USB network interface. If it goes down, you have to reconfigure it unless you configured it as permanent interface.
Imagine that. We truly live in hell.","attachment":null,"posted":1714575487},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794284,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to measure 110V AC current using a Hall effect sensor, (to calculate power draw), and I want to read the measurement over I2C for logging.
The ACS723 current sensor seems like a good fit and is available as a breakout board (pic) but because it's an AC current, it will output an AC voltage proportional to the current. And I presumably want a DC signal to feed into an ADC to query via I2C. Can I just put the output of the Hall effect sensor through a bridge rectifier with a smoothing capacitor? My understanding is that still wouldn't give a perfectly smooth signal.
There also seem to be "rms to dc converter" ICs that would give a DC output.
I also thought about using the output voltage to drive a 555 timer chip and then use a pulse counter to effectively "integrate" the signal over time, that's probably overcomplicating things though?
tl;dr options for measuring and logging mains power consumption?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714579307231003.jpg","filename":"14544-SparkFun_Current_Sensor_Breakout_-_ACS723__Low_Current_-01.jpg"},"posted":1714579307},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794290,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714579883967460.jpg","filename":"p3 kill-a-watt.jpg"},"posted":1714579883},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794291,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284
Acs712 has a filter that might be good enough. I've also considered inductive current sensors which often will allow you to avoid cutting the mains wire.","attachment":null,"posted":1714579904},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794290
Sure, but I want to automatically log energy usage and make graphs, etc. (I should have been more specific and said I want to measure energy use, not power)","attachment":null,"posted":1714581056},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794252
USB, like bluetooth, was designed for things like keyboards and mice. With very short cables. Stateless things. Not that we really needed it.
Even odder, is that from a programming standpoint is that it’s a block oriented protocol… it’s hard to see the “serial” part of it unless you’re bit-bashing USB 1.1 with a 1GHz mcu in real-time mode.
Originally, USB was seen as a simplification to the full rs232 25-pin d connector spec (which was hardly ever used) since it has only 4 wires and can carry power (although only 5 V instead of the enlightened firewire). Until the came up with USB-C with a lot more wires and bullshit that is hardly ever used. This will pave the way for a “new” and simplifed “serial” bus after the USB-C tower of babel collapses.","attachment":null,"posted":1714588127},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794346,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284
> AC voltage through a smoothing cap
Yep, that will work.
The key is to measure that voltage through a very high impedance buffer like an op-amp or a j-fet input op-amp. This is what is done in a “sample and hold” circuit. That way any ripple is minimized, because the ripple goes up proportionally with the load.","attachment":null,"posted":1714588777},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794348,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794190
Obviously, just charge them up to 90 V (or whatever) then wait a while—perhaps a month—and measure them again.
If one is leaky it will be at a lower voltage.","attachment":null,"posted":1714589091},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794351,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794342
… oh and something fascinating… I was trying to get SIMPlink to work on my bluray player yesterday (don’t get me started on hdmi please) and checked the manual to my TV and it can actually use the USB port as a true, rs232 serial port at 115 kB and accept commands from a terminal (or, I guess PCs nowadays over COM1) to control it and to do diagnostics. I assume this is also for interfaces for the disabled, but it was incredibly interesting that it still works that way and thanks to laws and whatnot, it hasn’t disappeared yet.","attachment":null,"posted":1714589586},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794364,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794346
Thanks for the tip anon. Actually having done some more reading it seems that measuring AC power is not straightforward at all, and to deal with loads that are not purely resistive, I need to take many samples of both voltage and current at different time points to get instantaneous power consumption measurements, and average them. I was hoping to just measure current and multiply it by mains voltage but that is apparently too naive.
>>2794291
I do wonder how accurate those inductive sensors are, wouldn't it depend on the geometry of how the wire passes through them?","attachment":null,"posted":1714591542},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793771
update: replaced caps. didnt have 1200uF so used 1000uF instead. voltages of chips appear to be within spec now (also the main logic chip on the board is getting a lot hotter now), but the VCR is still throwing the same error code. hmmmm. chip might be dead.","attachment":null,"posted":1714591976},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794368
Remove the one RAM chip that looks scorched and try to power it on.","attachment":null,"posted":1714593225},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794383,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794342
The USB wire protocol is a serial protocol, no matter how you look at it. Serial doesn't mean "byte wise".
God there's so much dumb shit in the USB protocol. Like how you terminate a transfer. Fuck ZLPs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714594625},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794368
the RAM chip looks like bog standard sdram, you could probably replace it with anything from an old videocard (assuming the timings are at least as low as the one on the dead chip).","attachment":null,"posted":1714596030},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794387,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794376
bro i really do not think that that is the issue","attachment":null,"posted":1714596479},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794390,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794387
Does that chip look right to you? lol","attachment":null,"posted":1714596626},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794392,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794390
its a low-light phone picture. the chip looks completely fine. its not getting super hot, and it definitely isnt getting hotter than the identical chip right next to it. its going to take more evidence than a smudged fingerprint to make me suspect that chip.","attachment":null,"posted":1714596880},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794397,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So I have this simple ADC circuit to measure the positions of 2 potentiometers.
The ADC is an ADS1115 which I'm using for differential readings. I'm specifically checking between A0->A1 and A2->A3. Both A0 and A2 are connected to the 5v rail.
I can get readings just fine, but it doesn't seem to be very precise even after discarding outliers and averaging samples. How can I improve this circuit to eliminate as much noise as possible?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714597097484676.png","filename":"simpleadccircuit.png"},"posted":1714597097},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794412,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284
?Can I just put the output of the Hall effect sensor through a bridge rectifier
nope
a diode loses the lower 0.7V of the AC signal
if using a bridge, you lose 1.4V
that screws up your resolution and accuracy
so you'd need a precision rectifier, with op-amps helping out the hapless diodes
(pic is for audio, you'd need bigger caps for 60Hz)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714600061539751.png","filename":"precision full-wave rectifier.png"},"posted":1714600061},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794397
>How can I improve this circuit
you could use ground as a differential input instead of 5V
coz the 5V could be noisy
ground is never noisy coz it's the reference point for everything else","attachment":null,"posted":1714600380},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794416,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794415
also, caps always help
on the supply and the inputs","attachment":null,"posted":1714600511},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794420,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794397
put a small (or large) cap across A0 and A1 / A2 and A3.","attachment":null,"posted":1714601266},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794431,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794392
to me, it looks like the plastic has melted. it does not look like a smudge. the plastic looks like it has deformed","attachment":null,"posted":1714602202},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794432,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why does steinmetz say that the idea of the electron charge is harmful to the understanding of the behaviour of electricity in circuits?","attachment":null,"posted":1714602330},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794433,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794431
tell you what, ill take another look at it tomorrow at work and post a better picture of the chip. who knows, maybe im high. it if is the chip, thats an issue, because im pretty sure chips dont spontaneously melt like that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714602367},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794437,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794432
Because electrons move from cathode to anode.","attachment":null,"posted":1714602698},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794440,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794364
> not straightforward
Sure it is.
Send the sampled voltage into your a/d input.
You’ll get some (as far as you know) random number.
Now measure what it actually is with a multimeter or clamp meter.
Repeat that with different current draws until you’re tired of doing it. (You have to do this anyway to test it)
Now, when you get a value you can look up what the current actually is. If it’s in the middle of two values then interpolate. Remember your linear algebra?
Simple. Even works if it’s not linear.
This is how I computed square roots and other things when I went to high scool. In the back of the textbook there is a table of known values.
Simple.","attachment":null,"posted":1714602857},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794433
>post a better picture of the chip
dont bother
chip looks fine
it could be dead
but it looks fine
only evidence to the contrary is one bored dude playing a joke on you","attachment":null,"posted":1714603010},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794383
> USB is serial
I used to test/reverse engineer USB stuff for a living. I meant that looking through the decoded data stream and looking at the app-level software, you’d think it was “block” oriented. Not even bytes, but blocks of bytes. The massive inefficiency of software devs sending individual bytes in blocks (unions of structs) was driving me crazy. Just a shit protocol made even worse by idiot devs. I had to quit when they started sending XML through for the good of my health.","attachment":null,"posted":1714603386},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794432
its hard to say exactly what that author was thinking when he wrote that, but i will say that classical electrodynamics was finished by Maxwell, and Maxwell died before the discovery of the electron. you really dont need electrons to explain how a lot of circuits work, and trying to use classical electrodynamics to explain the behavior of electrons is ill-advised because electrons are quantum particles. its best to treat electrons with the respect theyre due, and leave them out of simple circuits althogether.
>>2794437
anode to cathode, actually","attachment":null,"posted":1714603414},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794443
You're right. He should just throw the board in the trash. Problem solved.
>>2794447
>anode to cathode, actually
Wrong.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714603560365124.jpg","filename":"1631271058930.jpg"},"posted":1714603560},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794447
I'm still trying to figure out what he means by dielectric field. but he seems to view charge as waves not electrons","attachment":null,"posted":1714603764},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794453,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794446
Most standard USB protocols don't use anything like this. No unions of structs, no XML. But the messy transfer termination semantics make protocols awkward, I've seen things just pad their packets to full length to avoid dealing with short packets and ZLPs.
Anyway, electrically, USB is a serial protocol. What the fuck are you guys smoking?","attachment":null,"posted":1714603830},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794449
huh, whoops.
>>2794452
>I'm still trying to figure out what he means by dielectric field.
post a passage thats confusing you.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714604095286491.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714604095},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794443
>one bored dude
I am not the person who made the original suggestion. But I confirm the surface of the chip looks slightly melted.
Go look at the image again. There is a perfect rectangular deformation right in the middle the size and location of where the actual IC would be.","attachment":null,"posted":1714606467},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794473,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794440
I don't think that extrapolation is valid because inductive/capacitive loads will shift the voltage/current relative to each other to different extents.
>>2794412
>a diode loses the lower 0.7V of the AC signal
good point","attachment":null,"posted":1714606809},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284
If you care about measuring real power and not apparent power, you'll want to measure the full AC current waveform at at least a few kS/s and do the proper integration. With a good anti-aliasing filter, of course.
If it's just connected to a mostly resistive load then it doesn't matter. If it's connected to a dumb reactive load then high frequency sampling doesn't matter, just assume the waveforms are sinusoidal. If it could be connected to rectifiers or triacs then you need to sample at higher frequencies.
Also consider a current transformer instead of hall-effect, they should be more than accurate enough for AC. Hall effect is basically only used for DC, because it suffers from offset drift.
>>2794459
IIRC in a galvanic cell it's flipped compared to an electrochemical cell. Not to mention the photovoltaic mode compared to the photoconductive mode of a photodiode.
>>2794472
Could just be shrinkage from the epoxy moulding process. Also epoxy doesn't melt, it softens at high temperatures but considering the lack of discolouration around the board I very much doubt that. IC surface finishes vary wildly depending on what they've contacted and where they came from.","attachment":null,"posted":1714607985},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794485,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794484
>surface of the chip looks slightly melted.
>rectangular deformation right in the middle
>epoxy doesn't melt, it softens at high temperatures
really cool cool story bro","attachment":null,"posted":1714608326},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794488,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794484
>IC surface finishes vary wildly
another important point: the nose is what gives it away, not the eyes
burnt chips have a very unique and powerful smell
like a Trump fart, a stink nobody can ever forget","attachment":null,"posted":1714609239},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794502,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794473
>inductive capacitive loads…
Yeah, you’re sampling and holding the rectified and smoothed DC value so it won’t matter.
How fast do you need to update it? Faster than a multimeter?
You ever see how fast an LCR meter works?
Maybe you could really nerd out an show an representative equivalent schematic with the resistive, capacitive, and inductive components with their exact values on an oled screen updated every 60th of a second. Don’t forget about back-emf, Q factor, and pulse delay and reflection to compute the relative distance of the load components in the transmission line.","attachment":null,"posted":1714611668},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794502
Mate cos phi is so elementary even those kill-a-watt meters will display it. If you want to measure the power consumption of a simple transformer or ac motor, or something with a capacitive dropper like an LED bulb or kill-a-watt meter, your results will be significantly wrong.","attachment":null,"posted":1714614567},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794521,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794502
>smoothed DC value
So you just get the root mean square of the current and voltage independently, and multiply them to get the power? That doesn't seem to take into account the parts of the wave where the power is flowing "backwards" i.e. into the mains","attachment":null,"posted":1714616744},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Wiring some other lights to my cars foglights but don’t wanna cut any wires on it so I’m trying to tap into the relay. What number is the switched output I should be connecting to?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714617633427680.jpg","filename":"IMG_9275.jpg"},"posted":1714617633},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794544,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794526
Probably 87. Maybe 30 or 87A if they're idiots. If you get it wrong it will just turn on at the wrong time, it shouldn't blow anything up.
Look up a wiring diagram for your car if you're unsure.","attachment":null,"posted":1714621037},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794545,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794521
The back-emf tends to have a reducing effect on the voltage across the smoothing capacitor over time.
You can also measure the current with a resistor attached to thermocouple. That’s really smooth.
The reason we measure the AC voltage in RMS is partly due to analog methods used to measure it back in they day.","attachment":null,"posted":1714621048},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794546,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794545
>The reason we measure the AC voltage in RMS is partly due to analog methods used to measure it back in they day
RMS specifically is used because it's the current/voltage that's produces the same average power output for a resistive load. Non-ohmic loads don't follow this trend.
You can use analog methods to measure real power instead of just measuring apparent power, that's what those spinning disc non-smart power meters do.","attachment":null,"posted":1714621312},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794547,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794512
This started simply and now we’re doing metrology grade measurements on real and apparent power with arbitrary loads. My clamp-on meter isn’t even that accurate.
Just buy a kill-a-watt meter.
>>2794412
My fluke multimeter uses a circuit like this.","attachment":null,"posted":1714621396},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794550,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794547
>Just buy a kill-a-watt meter
The anon wants datalogging, to have a long-term log of what draws how much power and when, probably for something like a fridge. Cos phi isn't just a few percent difference, it can easily be over a 50% difference, it's something you really want to take into account when measuring a reactive load, like a fridge.
You can almost certainly buy something like what he's asking for, but when it comes to datalogging I tend to find that what you buy is a lot more expensive than an arduino with an SD card shield added to the non-datalogging version. He could hack into a kill-a-watt meter with such a microcontroller circuit, but doing it from scratch would be a cleaner build. The capacitive dropper inside a kill-a-watt meter isn't going to be able to provide much current for a microcontroller, it may well not be sufficient.
>My clamp-on meter isn’t even that accurate
Phi is just the phase angle between voltage and current. It's not hard to measure, it would be pretty easy with just a couple of zero-crossing detectors, or just do it in software with your ADC readings that you're getting anyhow, but you need to measure voltage and current at the same time for it. A kill-a-watt does measure both at the same time. A portable clamp meter or multimeter does not. Some benchtop meters might.","attachment":null,"posted":1714622290},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794558,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794550
>>2794512
https://sigrok.org/wiki/Digitek_DT4000ZC","attachment":null,"posted":1714624661},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794560,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794550
> fridge
As I said before, you send the smoothed voltage from your current measurement to the a/d converter, and calibrate it with an accurate meter. Done.
If you change the load to a chinese 2 W LED light using a capacitive dropper, then recalibrate it for that.
> datalogging on killawat
I happen to have a residential logging meter on my incoming 100 A biphase power using two current transformers. The thing is pretty complicated and uses multiple microcontrollers. It also somehow measures the voltage using those current transformers with great accuracy, but it remains pretty consistent where I am, within 1% measured agains my fluke.
If I wanted to log on my killawatt, I’d set up a webcam on it, snap a picture every second, check if certain pixels were black, and figure out what digits were displayed and log that, then discard the picture. Done.
If you wanted to be really fancy, Tie off the LCD but those things are weird signalling-wise.
>>2794546
> spinning disc, analogue methods
Not necessary. We had this covered a long time ago, as in picrel. The two bands wound in opposite directions carry the current. There’s an outer coil that isn’t shown.
The above logging technique will work on this thing from 1954 as well.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714625629944934.jpg","filename":"4996B23B-379D-4392-881E-E97D5CC7A5FE.jpg"},"posted":1714625629},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794593,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794558
That doesn't measure current and voltage at the same time. Multimeters usually only have one ADC channel, and it doesn't seem like the DT4000ZC is any different. The data transfer seems to be only in one direction, so I don't think you couldn't swap quickly between voltage and current automatically either. Even if you could, the settling time on DMMs is usually much slower than the speed of the AC waveform. My meter has a dual display that can show hertz and AC voltage at the same time, or current value and min/max value, but still can't do voltage and current at once.
>>2794560
>calibrate it with an accurate meter
That's fine if you're testing one appliance over weeks, but if you want to test like 20 different appliances it would be a pain to calibrate for each one. I don't know why you're making it out like power factor is some sort of precision instrumentation thing to measure when power meters do it for cheap. Using a pair of zero-crossing detection circuits alongside a pair of rectifying and averaging circuits would make for an effective circuit for ohmic/reactive loads, which is where nonideal power factor will be the most impactful. You can also just buy the ICs they use in power meters if you know where to look.
>The thing is pretty complicated and uses multiple microcontrollers
Maybe because it's got two modular circuits, one for each phase? Those power meters are overbuilt both for reliability and for the ability for the power company to retroactively start charging for apparent power by communicating to it without your knowledge, anon doesn't need all that junk. Just an MCU with two ADC channels and some passives.
The camera trick works but is more tedious to parse the data, if you do it often enough you'd be better off tapping into the multiplexed LCD and reverse engineering the protocol once. Then you'd just import the data as a CSV and run a quick script to convert it into numbers.
This is /diy/, it sounds like a neat project.","attachment":null,"posted":1714632965},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794593
>That doesn't measure current and voltage at the same time.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714634891914772.png","filename":"2024-05-02-002740_1350x985_scrot.png"},"posted":1714634891},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794593","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714634978848450.png","filename":"2024-05-02-002907_1079x936_scrot.png"},"posted":1714634978},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794600,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794593
>>2794598","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714635051457603.png","filename":"2024-05-02-002948_1064x871_scrot.png"},"posted":1714635051},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794620,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794600
>the magic of 2
unfortunately, you need sample rates with millisecond resolution to get accurate results
250 ms is useless unless you could get the 2 meters to somehow synchronize their readings","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714643203861420.gif","filename":"sample rate tp400zc.gif"},"posted":1714643203},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do you work on repairs? I spent a few hours trying to diagnose this gaming keyboard. Fucking black traces on black mask is bulllllshiittttt. I also think that this board is multilayer.
Managed to.figure out Q1 and Q2 wasn't getting a 3v supply which feeds the infrared leds.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714658669914494.jpg","filename":"20240501_175145.jpg"},"posted":1714658669},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794718,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794709
>How did you break the keyboard?
Liquid was spilled on it which was the initial problem. After that some cat pissed on it. So had to clean all that off and clean the corrosion up. Works perfectly fine now.","attachment":null,"posted":1714666017},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794670
i fixed a keyboard i found at a goodwill about a year ago. the problem was a wrong-value resistor. i think the factory just put the wrong resistor on the board. poor guy got a lemon and just gave it to goodwill. its like a $100 keyboard.","attachment":null,"posted":1714666085},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794726,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794719
Yeah it is really nifty finding stuff like that this TV screen I am working on a crappy little 12 inch but the backlight circuit died. It need the supply capacitors replaced and a new fuse and it worked like a charm. I use it for test equipment","attachment":null,"posted":1714666638},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794727,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794718
Look at the board under a UV light if you have one. You can see corrosion under the solder mask if you shine it at the right angle. Neutralizing it with a weak acid or base (depending on the pH of the spilled corrosive liquid) will stop it from creeping further through the PCB.","attachment":null,"posted":1714666639},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794730,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794727
There isn't a lot. The liquid damage was minimal the issue is the vias. They get damages with very minimal moisture that's what caused it to crack. I just can't find the actual line where it's broken. Bit if I get the chance to open it with a uv light I'll check it out.","attachment":null,"posted":1714667226},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794709
Election tourists are the worst.","attachment":null,"posted":1714667412},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794741,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794593
>Using a pair of zero-crossing detection circuits alongside a pair of rectifying and averaging circuits would make for an effective circuit for ohmic/reactive loads
So the zero crossing detectors would give you the phase offset of the current/voltage, is there math that would let you use the offset to calculate the true power draw from the RMS of the current and voltage, though?","attachment":null,"posted":1714669899},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794745,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794670
>Fucking black traces on black mask is bulllllshiittttt.
basically all black PCBs are BS. Which makes 99% of all computer mainboards over the past several years BS","attachment":null,"posted":1714670353},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794751,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794431
>>2794443
>>2794472
>>2794484
>>2794485
>>2794488","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714671903659048.jpg","filename":"IMG_1267.jpg"},"posted":1714671903},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794752,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794598
>>2794620
>>2794560
In the question, he was mainly interested in getting the current and datalogging. He doesn’t need to measure the voltage at all if you keep in simple and forget about all the what-ifs. Sure if you were making a product and plan to sell millions of them, then yeah you might want to compensate for different load types, but for all we know he might be able to get by just knowing when it was “on” or “off” and then multiply that by how much power it uses.
> tap the LCD
It’s both an AC signal and multiplexed. Now we need to get into rectification and smoothing again. I’d be done an hour after the first post with a webcam, but cheap hacks are something I specialize in.
>>2794620
> datastream
Nice. The E.U. Should do something useful make a law mandating this like they did with USB-C. I hate USB-C though, that was not useful and Apple poisoned their implementation.
I spend a lot of time postulating turning multiplexed LCD screens into big, non-multiplexed LED screens so I can work in the dark and I don’t need to find a magnifying glass so see some of the tiny shit on them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714672154},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794753,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794751","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714672310981646.jpg","filename":"IMG_1268.jpg"},"posted":1714672310},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794755,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794751
It’s amazing what the light and angle does.
I see lots of SOTs under the microscope where I can’t read the markings at all, but if I turn it 180 degrees it’s clear as day.
>>2794745
Why hate black PCBs. Yeah, they’re a bit of a meme, but so is hating them.
I think they’d be useful for making front panels out of PCB.
Also, I see a lot of computer cases with clear panels so you can see inside, and there is even LEDs on the fans and stuff so it looks like a little discotheque diorama inside there! Black PCBs look great in there.
And, if you’re buying a fan, might was well get one with LEDs in it if it’s not too much extra cost eh?","attachment":null,"posted":1714672881},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794760,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794753
>lead-free BGA chip
Reflow, reball, or replace.","attachment":null,"posted":1714673721},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794769,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794755
yeah, clear side panels, lots of lights, and...
PCBs that are any color other than black
>Why hate black PCBs.
cuz you cant see the traces you dumb fuck","attachment":null,"posted":1714675337},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794771,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794284
>calculate power draw), and I want to read the measurement over I2C for logging.
If only there were some kind of pre-made board that did exactly this
https://shop.m5stack.com/products/ac-measure-unit-hlw8032
>>2794752
>He doesn’t need to measure the voltage at all if you keep in simple and forget about all the what-ifs
P=IV will only be valid for purely resistive loads","attachment":null,"posted":1714675542},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794818,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794741
>is there math that would let you use the offset to calculate the true power draw from the RMS of the current and voltage, though?
Yes, though this assumes the load is reactive or ohmic:
>phi = 2π * t_offset * f_mains
>P_apparent = Vrms * Irms
>P_real = P_apparent * cosine( phi )
If you assume that the mains frequency is constant, you could do the entire t_offset -> cos(phi) transform with a single lookup table. Or maybe a polynomial, if that's more your speed. Calculating the mains frequency from your timer implies division, but I'd probably use a lookup table for that also, division with a variable denominator is slow.
Caring about non-sinusoidal current waveforms is less important, but if that does matter then that's when you'd need kHz sampling rates with dual ADC channels sampling both waveforms to integrate the instantaneous power.
>>2794771
Cool product, the HLW8032 chip they're using is 44c each on LCSC. I can't tell if it's just a cos(phi) calculator or if it does a continuous integral though, if it's the former then I guess it's cheaper to ADC sample the waveforms directly than to put them through rectifying circuits.","attachment":null,"posted":1714684553},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794828,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794818
>Yes, though this assumes the load is reactive or ohmic:
Why is it not valid for capacitive loads?
You are talking about the need to rapidly convert the offset time to a phase angle, but doesn't that remain constant? If a load is stably drawing power then voltage and current RMS, and the time delta between the zero crossings should all remain constant, right?","attachment":null,"posted":1714687074},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794836,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794769
> can’t see the traces
Why do you need to see the traces?
I guess you’re the guy that can fix bad traces in the middle of a 16-layer motherboard with multiple ground planes.
It’s surprising that a thin layer of black paint completely negates your entire skillset.
I just place a light at right angles and I can see the traces just fine, but I’ve also encountered multilayer boards, where you were unaware of there existence apparently.","attachment":null,"posted":1714688821},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794771
> P =IV
In this case, P = IV × powerfactor.
And powerfactor is some number. This is calibrated away by testing it with something that can measure the real power. You can largely just log the A/D values from the current transformer (or whatever) and calculate it later.
> but what about continuously varying loads swinging wildly with arbitrary high capacitance inductance and resistance?
> but waddabout wild loads that change their Z characteristcs at 1 GHz, how do you account for that?
> watabout 3 phase… nay.. n-phase power?
> whatabout arbitrary waveforms with sub femtosecond rise times","attachment":null,"posted":1714689674},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794846,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794836
>the middle of a 16-layer motherboard
ahh yes, where the majority of physical damage occurs
you fuckin idiot","attachment":null,"posted":1714690411},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794848,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794846
Show us this unseeable physical damage on a black pcb. Maybe we can help.
We got a guy that can spot epoxy moulding anomalies and shrinkage based on lousy photo, so this should be easy. Also the IC was black! You wouln’t be able to see it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714690945},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794849,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794842
but the power factor will be unique for each different load!","attachment":null,"posted":1714690960},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794853,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794836
Most damage happens on the surface. Also seeing the trace and the direction let's me see where it is headed maybe I'll see where it broke along the way. Instead I have to blindly probe until I head a beep because it isn't like they gave me a schematic. Why the hell does it even need to be black. It doesn't give you extra angry pixies it's just a pain in the ass to service. Not trying to intentionally make me job harder.","attachment":null,"posted":1714691181},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794855,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794853
I’ve only seen black PCBs in videos from people complaining about it.
Dave jones is one. Ironically, that’s the first time I heard about making faceplates out of black PCBs—same guy.
I don’t own or have been sent any black PCBs, I think it was popular with people making those “open” devices where there’s no case (just 4 stand-offs) and possibly a piece of clear acrylic over top of that, also with stand-offs. I don’t like my stuff covered in dust, so I tend to put it in cases, where a black PCB would be absolutely pointless.
But there’s no doubt it looks great if you can see the PCB.","attachment":null,"posted":1714691819},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794858,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794855
>>2794848
>looks matters more than functionality
youre either gay, female, or retarded","attachment":null,"posted":1714692416},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794859,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794849
> power factor is different for each load!
Yesss! Exactly… I’m making progress here.
Now, if the guy wants to know what his beer fridge is costing him every year, it’s gonna be fine.
If he’s designing a whole-house monitor for commercial sale, then yeah… more complicated things will be needed.
I have several of these kill-a-watts and clones, but I never really used them long term. Some of them tabulate the kWh energy use over time and compute the $ amount. The problem is my power floats so it’s radically different from month to month. So usually I just throw it on an unknown device for a month, and figure out what it costs me per year.
Most appliances come with cost rating around here (energuide) so I just trust that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714692621},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794862,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794858
It does to the people that buy them. If you hate black PCBs so much, why do you insist on buying things that use them? Furthermore, if you are knowingly in possession of things with black PCBs you should take extra care to protect them from physical damage.","attachment":null,"posted":1714693057},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794858
Ahh, you’re this guy. I can see the traces and the texture of the fiberglass mesh inside the epoxy PCB. It’s even easier to see the traces on this board than with most other boards.
The E.U. should mandate black PCBs everywhere for ease of maintenance and repairability.
> gaming keyboard
Ahh. That explains everything.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714693580366067.jpg","filename":"115F2AA7-85E5-4502-995D-9AE2F90EA7EE.jpg"},"posted":1714693580},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794869,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794867
No that's not me. I'm the one who fixed the keyboard. This one was a gift from a friend.","attachment":null,"posted":1714693807},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794867
> It’s even easier to see the traces on this board than with most other boards.
made up bullshit
> gaming keyboard
not me, but way to show your retardation","attachment":null,"posted":1714693822},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794878,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794869
When you look down on the keyboard, through the keys, can you see the PCB? If so, that’s likely why they made it black.
At least it’s not gloss black, that would be worse and difficult to take a photo of it due to glare.
On the plus side, the silk screen is very readable.","attachment":null,"posted":1714694505},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794902,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794828
>Why is it not valid for capacitive loads?
It is valid, capacitive loads are a type of reactive load.
>doesn't that remain constant?
Power factor may change in the 10-0.1s timespan, for example as the load on an electric motor changes. For sinusoidal current, you don't need to measure faster than each mains cycle (50/60Hz), which is trivially slow for a microcontroller anyhow. That kind of 0.1s time resolution isn't useful for knowing the cost of electricity, just for the finer things of inverter/transformer sizing or troubleshooting startup transients.
For non-sinusoidal current you're not measuring just phase angle, but the shape of the current waveform, since things with rectifiers will only draw short spikes of current at the peaks of the sinusoid.","attachment":null,"posted":1714698148},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794918,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794878
>At least it’s not gloss black, that would be worse and difficult to take a photo of it due to glare.
On the plus side, the silk screen is very readable.
The silkscreen isn't but the traces are not. The photo doesn't really show what it really looked like to me working on it. Either way I was able to see enough to do what I needed. The board matches the metal panel paint but you really can't see it from the top. Not with the keycaps in place and the buttons themselves. I think it is just branding jank mostly.","attachment":null,"posted":1714699778},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794960,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"did you know that you could easily solder a bigger SMD part onto a smaller footprint and vice versa? 0805 on 0603? no problem. 0402 on 0603? or 0604 on 0805? no problem. it is probably possible to fit 0402 onto a 0805 footprint as well, with a little bit of patience. so, always use M-sized footprints, they are not taking up much more space than N or S and there's a lot more leeway that way.","attachment":null,"posted":1714707242},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794970,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is it possible for there to be too much current if the Voltage is correct? The current output on this power supply is 1A and it's going into the battery holder of this DOD FX-32 pedal.
I found the schematics but don't understand any of it.V
https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=8570","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714708949213198.jpg","filename":"fx32.jpg"},"posted":1714708949},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794970
Yes, too much current is a thing.
The reason is that the circuit might depend on the internal resistance of the battery.
Coin-cell driven devices and LED flashlights are notorious for this.
Best to limit the current with a resistor","attachment":null,"posted":1714714870},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794990,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794970
>schematics
It's transistors and op-amps, there's nothing there that will die if you accidentally give it 9.5V. Heck, 9V batteries can give out an amp if you really push them for a short period of time, and they're like 9.6V when full anyhow. The whole thing would probably run just fine up at 12V even, though depending on the circuit it might sound different.
That said, your USB-to-9V adapter is probably noisy as shit. I'd add a capacitance multiplier, or even use a USB-to-12V adapter alongside a 9V regulating circuit. I prefer one that uses a TL431 and a pass transistor, but to each this own. A 7809 won't have much ripple rejection in the hundreds of kHz.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714718393538927.png","filename":"schem.png"},"posted":1714718393},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794994,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794970
>>2794990
fyi appliances that run on a constant voltage will only draw the current they need, assuming nonshit design","attachment":null,"posted":1714718907},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2794995,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794990
ooh, a cd4007 being used for analog stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1714719222},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795125,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794995
> 4007
Not surprising.
Most effects pedals are failed attempts at filters, tone controls, or preamps and put together by tinkerers without any understanding of electricity, like “circuit bending” — sometimes they go through 100 transistors to find that one with the “magic” quality they’re looking for. Of course, the result is that it turns the output into a square-ish wave every time.
All this sounds a lot better when you’re high as a kite.","attachment":null,"posted":1714755108},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795199,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"At what point would you say someone is ready for a project?
I already finished up studied power transfer/RLC circuits/frequency response and am on Laplace transforms right now, but I still don't know what transistors do and that Sedra Smith book is daunting.
Would you say going through half of S&S is good enough for side projects?","attachment":null,"posted":1714769513},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795199
>S&S
is that control theory? youre ready.","attachment":null,"posted":1714769637},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795200
No, microelectronic theory going in depth on pn junctions, op amps, and mosfests/bits and their common configs","attachment":null,"posted":1714769678},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795202,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795201
what does it stand for?","attachment":null,"posted":1714769713},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795203,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795201
mosfets/bjts* Jesus christ","attachment":null,"posted":1714769740},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795204,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795201
oh, Sedra Smith lol. i thought it was "signals and systems" which is what my school called control therory.
just start bro, youll learn with your hands.","attachment":null,"posted":1714769773},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795211,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795199
I knew none of that when i made my first blinker lol just quit being a bitch","attachment":null,"posted":1714772297},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795253,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795199
I made my first electronics project when I was a little kid, with a few nails, some wire, a board, and a piece of steel strapping, a home made capacitor out of tinfoil and wax paper I got from my mom. To flash a light bulb. LEDs were not invented yet.
I remember my dad giving me a relay about a year after that. I’m like “holy crap… someone already thought of this and did a way better job”
Of course, I did not amount to very much despite such early promise.
>>2795211
Exactly.
You didn’t mention what the project was, practical advice cannot be offered. Are you going to hit us up for project ideas? I just gave you one.","attachment":null,"posted":1714783101},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795274,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795125
I’d agree with you a lot of the time, but this circuit uses series pass JFETs, and I refuse to believe someone can do that without at least some clue.
CD4007s are the best way to get 4-terminal MOSFETs, they’re great.
>>2795199
To design custom circuits for a given category, you need both an understanding of theory, and experience building and troubleshooting existing circuits. Just one or the other won’t be enough. Get your hands dirty with some simple projects, the OP has a few in its GitHub repo. I made an elektrosluch for my first project, it was fun.","attachment":null,"posted":1714788003},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">fix my 3d printer with a new rotary encoder and a bodge wire to repair a trace that i mistakenly cut like a retard
>fix a smps i had laying around
i am unstoppable","attachment":null,"posted":1714825193},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795412,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does it make sense to get one of these miscellaneous grab-bags of components if I am just starting out? I don't want to have to specifically order every resistor I'm gonna use. Or will I just end up with a bunch of useless crap?
The general plan is to get a breadboard and work through some simple starter projects","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714828486362444.jpg","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-04 091153.jpg"},"posted":1714828486},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795420,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795412
those are fine for beginner stuff. chinkshit passives are acceptable for general use provided:
1) you aren't pushing a part to its absolute limit ("50V" chinkshit capacitors might not actually be 50V, "1/4W" chinkshit resistors are likely not capable of dissipating 1/4W without blowing up) or
2) you need guaranteed characteristics that you see on a comparable data sheet which are obviously not characterized on a chinkshit part which has no data sheet (minimum zener current on a chinkshit 1N47xx might not be anywhere near the minimum zener current on a genuine 1N47xx part.)
i don't really trust chinkshit ICs at all, especially things like op amps or linear regulators.","attachment":null,"posted":1714829495},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795420
You can always test them.
I think that’s a worthwhile “first activity” when just starting out. You’ll learn a lot just from doing that.
Test sealed electrolytics outside though.","attachment":null,"posted":1714837380},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795558,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sorry if this isn't the right place, but I feel like I'm losing my fucking mind. I cannot for the life of me find this LED module. There are a million with three screw holes but these two screw versions seemingly don't exist. I've searched all the numbers on the board that I can see and nothing has come of it. Please, please, PLEASE can somebody save me from this hell. It's the bathroom light so currently I'm showering in the dark which is a giant pain in the arse.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714852823479352.jpg","filename":"1714852525653.jpg"},"posted":1714852823},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795663,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795558
It might be proprietary if you can’t find it on alibay or wherever. See if you can find manufacturer markings on it or the fixture, or even contact the people who renovated the place to see if they know. Worst case you just have to replace the fixture, it’s probably easy enough to get one that will fit there seamlessly, though whether it matches with the others in the room is a seperate matter.
Personally I’m quite happy with my Edison screw LED bulbs that die every three years.","attachment":null,"posted":1714873472},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795667,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795558
>LED module
it's silly to be looking for a module
you need to purchase the whole lamp thing, including the housing
then you get a guaranteed fit, along with standard ceiling mounting points
suggest you get one where you can choose the light temperature
experiment to see which one makes you naked butt look best","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714873908420626.jpg","filename":"cheapo ceiling lamps.jpg"},"posted":1714873908},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795678,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
everytime i try to desolder components on a nice manufactured PCB, it takes forever. the solder never comes out all at the same time, and i have to take 10mins poking each side of the leg and removing little bits of solder as i go and eventually it comes out.
using 300~350degrees on my iron, keep refluxing, even retinning the point before beginning to try help, and I dont know what im doing wrong. What can I do to make this go faster?","attachment":null,"posted":1714875384},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795681,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795678
>What can I do
watch and follow all 10,000 desoldering videos on youtube
if still failing, invest in some needles","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714876302454201.jpg","filename":"desoldering needles.jpg"},"posted":1714876302},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795683,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795678
Don't try and desolder components by taking all the solder off the pads. Just liquify the solder and pull the component off with tweezers.
If you're working with ICs use a hot air gun or short all the pads with silver solder then melt and pull off. If you're working with through-hole parts use a vacuum desoldering pump or snip the leads, liquify, and pull the remaining lead out of the hole with needle-nose pliers or tweezers.","attachment":null,"posted":1714876721},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795681
also chipquik, which is usu for chips but ok for other parts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kyaz4Zrd78","attachment":null,"posted":1714876812},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795692,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795678
Get a Yihua 929D, if not a proper desoldering iron with a vacuum pump and temperature control. They work great, if a tad tedious.
There’s also the strategy of running thick solid core wire next to all the pads so you can reflow them all at once, but it’s eve more of a pain. Those extra wide soldering tips might be good for this.
>>2795681
These aren’t that reliable, often there’s just not enough room to fit them between the pad and the lead.","attachment":null,"posted":1714878523},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795678
melt the solder then quickly whack the board. the whole blob will come flying out, and you can just pluck the leg off of the via.","attachment":null,"posted":1714887182},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795667
Now you need to move into a new house now if one of the lights goes out? Is that where we’re headed? Never buy these goddammed things.
Now that the chinese are making LEDs and chips, you’re going to have to come to terms with the fact that there’s a bunch of things that you’ll never be able to buy, and chips you’ll never be able to find specs for.
You might be able to replace the driver chip, the bridge rectifier, or most likely that capacitor spilled it’s guts it looks like.
> how do you know it’s chinese?
I can tell by that font they used on the gloss-white PCB.","attachment":null,"posted":1714892523},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795756,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795740
>Never buy these goddammed things
they're supposed to last a decade, and the lack of replaceable bulbs makes them look modern and thin
you'll never get laid if you have fat fixtures in your house
good news is what often happens is one of the series LEDs burns out so all you gotta do is find it and short it out, and the rest will come on
this assumes you're not a pussy coz it means using tweezers on a live circuit while standing barefoot on a wet floor
i've done this a lot so i've acquired immunity","attachment":null,"posted":1714898867},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795766,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795725
>>2795683
>>2795683
thats the thing - and im mainly talking through-hole, surface mounts arent an issue - i can never melt all the solder at once. if i turn the temp up, i scorch the board and lift the 'ring pad' or whatever its called","attachment":null,"posted":1714906278},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795767,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795681
hmm needles might work. i have a sharp cone, and i could use that. my go-to has always been the wedge shape","attachment":null,"posted":1714906371},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795772,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795678
are you adding new solder before you try and desolder? helps immensely","attachment":null,"posted":1714908508},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795808,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"anyone have a preferred brand for high quality stranded copper wire with soft, flexible silicone that is rated to 600V or 1000V? something like the quality of wire you would see in a nice set of DMM probes. tired of buying chinkshitted garbage wire. i need 14 AWG and 16 AWG right now.","attachment":null,"posted":1714917471},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795877,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i'm having a hard time understanding aliasing. an adc samples at fs. the input is pre-filtered as shown. is the aliased content between fs/2 and fs present in the adc output or just the aliased content below fs/2?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714927417797142.png","filename":"1703806184828304.png"},"posted":1714927417},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795882,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm looking to drive a series of relays via a microcontroller. I know I could use an individual discrete transistor to drive current through each relay, but ideally I'd like a single multi-pinned component. No relay will ever be energized at the same time as another one, so I was wondering if a mux could work, but also am not sure if general 3v3 logic level muxes would be suitable for handling enough current to drive a relay.
Is there a particular word for an IC that solves my problem, or will I just need to scan through datasheets to just find a mux that will handle the current? Or more likely just be lazy and use BJTs anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1714928460},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795891,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795882","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714929427935211.jpg","filename":"1714893391686.jpg"},"posted":1714929427},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795891","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714929596532972.jpg","filename":"1714893537666.jpg"},"posted":1714929596},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795877
when you adc you can only read at a certain frequency
the alias never existed, but because your sample frequency, you cant say for certain that it never existed.
so you filter it to remove anything higher than the adc can sample before it hits the adc
and then you can say with confidence that now only the signal below f/2 remains.
in the diagram the tail of the alias is due to the input above fs/2, by filtering at fs/2 you will filter the alias below fs/2.
(in practice filters are not hard edged....)","attachment":null,"posted":1714929675},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795882
well logic level stuff isn't going to work if you need something with a transducer driver stage
maybe a stepper motor driver could be abused to do this?
a matrix of sink/source transistors seems more elegant to me","attachment":null,"posted":1714929834},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795901,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"if I short 120v wires with a 250v capacitor, will that trip a breaker, or just charge/discharge the capacitor slowly?","attachment":null,"posted":1714930471},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795905,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795891
>>2795893
also","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714930816694858.jpg","filename":"1714894772502.jpg"},"posted":1714930816},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795906,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795901
depends on how big the capacitor is, but it probably won't trip the breaker. you could always add a current limiting resistor. or use a DC boost converter instead of mains.","attachment":null,"posted":1714930878},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795908,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795901
are you talking about 120vac?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714931048718470.jpg","filename":"1690593870315016.jpg"},"posted":1714931048},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795911,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795908
yes","attachment":null,"posted":1714931217},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795911
if it's a polarized capacitor it will explode
if not, it won't charge/discharge slowly, it will do so at 60Hz and whether it'll trip a breaker depends on the capacitance","attachment":null,"posted":1714931319},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2795919,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795901
thats not “shorting.”
I=C dV/dt, so the RMS current would be C * 120 * 60 * 2pi. tripping a 20A breaker would take a minimum capacitance of about 450uF, assuming nothing else is connected to the breaker.","attachment":null,"posted":1714931897},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796013,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794397
Alright, I've simplified my circuit so that it looks like this (not showing the irrelevant I2C and A2/A3 pins).
I've attached the differential to ground instead of the 5V rail and I've added both an electrolytic capacitor and smaller ceramic capacitor to smooth out the noise.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714946865294404.png","filename":"simpleadccircuit.png"},"posted":1714946865},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796014,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796013
And yet the noise was not reduced that much. Here's the values I'm getting from the ADC across A0 and A1.
The range of values varies by ~100 points from min to max. Any ideas on how to reduce that further?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714947014089056.png","filename":"signal.png"},"posted":1714947014},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796015,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796014
Here's the signal without the capacitors. Either I'm using them incorrectly or they are not really doing anything at all.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714947158687884.png","filename":"signal_nocap.png"},"posted":1714947158},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796016,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796013
Use 0.1uF (100nF) instead of 10uF.","attachment":null,"posted":1714947342},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795767
>i have a sharp cone
i dont think you got the point about desoldering needles
they're hollow
you heat the joint, then shove a needle into it, placing a barrier between the pin and the PCB
regular (non-hollow) needles are only useful in cleaning out holes filled with solder, when wick or solder pump dont work","attachment":null,"posted":1714947443},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796022,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796016
Still seems to range between 25600 -> 25700
Would using smaller ones be better? I was under the impression larger ones reduced noise better but slow the signal's responsiveness. I have ceramic capacitors going all the way down to 10pF though.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714947928614105.png","filename":"signal_100nF.png"},"posted":1714947928},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796026,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796022
>Would using smaller ones be better?
It's good to use small and large value caps together to filter out both low and high frequency noise. Try twisting your i2c cables together, and your power leads too.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714948380616280.jpg","filename":"twisted pair.jpg"},"posted":1714948380},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796040,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796026
Thanks, twisting the cables seems to have helped a bit. The range seems to have been reduced from ~100 values to ~70.
The sample rate of the ADC is ~860 samples per second, and out of 500 samples I am seeing around ~19 of those large peaks. So that means this weird signal is ~32Hz.
I guess the question is how do I change the circuit to remove that 32Hz signal. That's the major one I need to take care of. Or maybe I should do it in software?","attachment":null,"posted":1714950099},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796041,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796040
Forgot image.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714950160161469.png","filename":"signal_twisted.png"},"posted":1714950160},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796047,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796040
>>2796041
If you're using a breadboard, transfer the circuit to perfboard and solder everything. Keep your wires as short as possible and make the component layout nice and tight. Keep the circuit away from other electronics or put it in a metal case and use shielded wire.","attachment":null,"posted":1714951298},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795877
The input waves that are above fs/2 will be interpreted by your reconstruction/anti-imaging filter (the thing that smooths out the stair-step samples into a smooth signal, be it in software or after a DAC) as being a lower frequency than it was before sampling. In your case, anything in the original signal at f=fs/2+3 will appear instead at f=fs/2-3 instead. The problem being if you look into your samples and see a wave with a frequency of fs/2-3, you don't know whether it was a real signal at fs/2-3 or if it was originally at fs/2+3, it's ambiguous. If you have important information at fs/2-3, it will be combined with any unwanted information at fs/2+3 and it's impossible to seperate them.
Your anti-aliasing filter will have decreased its amplitude somewhat, ideally you want this filter to drop any aliased wave's amplitude to below LSB/2, but if you don't care about what happens in this region then you could choose to ignore it. Like maybe you'll get aliased shit down to fs/2 - 8, but the signal you care about in your passband only goes up to fs/2 - 10. It's also an option to use a digital filter after sampling to cut out what's above the passband much more strongly, again so long as the alias doesn't enter too close to the passband.
>>2796013
Aren't all ADC readings relative to the 0V rail anyhow? If the fluctuation is the issue, average your samples. If you want your sampled wave to be accurate, then get a proper voltage reference. Consider synchronising your samples with the source of the oscillations (e.g. mains frequency). There's also some good low-noise practice to be done, like putting your MCU to sleep when the samples are being taken.
>>2796040
>32Hz
Are you sure it's not 50/60Hz, due to your actual sample rate being different? Well it probably wouldn't be a lower if you calculated that based on its maximum frequency. I'd mess about with a high impedance scope probe (maybe a JFET amp too) to see if you can sense it anywhere else.","attachment":null,"posted":1714952479},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796071,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795891
>>2795893
>>2795905
Pretty much exactly what I was looking for, thanks!","attachment":null,"posted":1714954947},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796163,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
anyone here ever built a diy head tracker for flight sim? I have a bunch of wii parts and some ir leds.","attachment":null,"posted":1714973735},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796163
>head tracker
probably wanna look into kinect studio instead
you can get fully functional hardware for less than $10 used
and a free SDK lets you directly interface with your windows software","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714979502415935.gif","filename":"kinect studio.gif"},"posted":1714979502},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796214,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It's me, hard drive fag. Just replaced the SMD fuse and noticed that those diodes (forgot what they're called but I think that they are supposed to short the input as soon as a certain voltage is exceeded, which it did because I plugged in a 20v laptop power brick) permanently conduct.
Aparrently the overvoltage also took them out.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714988722406615.jpg","filename":"ResizedImage_2024-05-06_11-43-50_1905.jpg"},"posted":1714988722},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Could I just replace them with the diodes from this hard drive?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714988803666242.jpg","filename":"DSC_2471.jpg"},"posted":1714988803},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796216,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796215
>replace them
if they're just overvoltage protection, then you dont need them, coz you already learned your lesson","attachment":null,"posted":1714989214},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796222,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796214
TVS diodes? I guess it's a good idea for them to fail short, as opposed to failing open. Probably shoulda checked for a short to ground AFTER the fuse before you ordered the parts, eh?
>>2796215
As the other anon says, they're not necessary for running, but unless you really trust the PSU and whatever surge protector you're presumably running it on, I'd want to keep the some TVS diodes.
If the part numbers are the same then go for it, if the part numbers differ then I'd want to find the datasheets (using an SMD codebook) so I could verify that they're compatible. Worst case you just trace the circuit to see that they're in the same circuit topology.","attachment":null,"posted":1714992363},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796225,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796222
Was fucking hell to desolder. There's a big ground plane that sucked up all the heat and it took around 5mina per diode. The SMD package doesn't fit. For now I'll just use the hard drive without TVS diodes. I certainly won't make the same mistake twice. I don't even know if there isn't something else on the board that got fried so I should verify that it works in the first place.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714995280015138.jpg","filename":"DSC_2472.jpg"},"posted":1714995280},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796230,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
>buy high quality multimeter probes, very sharp tip
>drop one of the probes on the floor like a retard
>tip bends
>very lightly grind it down with a 6000 grit whetstone
>immediately removes a large portion of the gold plating
why does literally no one make a set of high quality probes that are just 8/32" threads, so we can buy 8/32" needle tips in bulk and swap them out when they wear out?","attachment":null,"posted":1714997861},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796260,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796230
> gold plating
Don’t worry, they have gold plating down to 1 atom thick, so it’s not like the plating was compromised.
I can see most of my recent 1/4" and 3.5mm jacks with gold plating wear off quickly and noticeably (definitely within a year).
I’ve found that nickel plating suffices.
> replaceable tips
They used to have these, I remember them from the 80s. We’ve regressed!
Generally, they’re going to get dull even without dropping them. If you have a power supply, some nickel, and some acid you can re-plate them with nickel at home easily enough. Useful for other things too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715006006},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796285,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796225
Put a resistor in series with the power to limit the current if running without TVS diodes.
What’s a hard drive wattage? Like less than 1W?
Thise TVS diodes also limit spikes from various sources, so never insert an ac wall plug to turn on the device due to arcing. Always use a switch, or, even better, some kind of soft-start mechanism.
I don’t think the hard drive connector is “hot pluggable”","attachment":null,"posted":1715008694},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796295,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796041
Yeah, I’m guessing this is actually 60 Hz hum.
Let me guess, the potentiometer shafts are aluminum and you’re turning them by hand.
You’re supposed to put plastic knobs on them.
You can probably hear this stuff if you have a headphone or amplified computer speakers.
Add the smoothing capacitors as close to the ADC pins as possible. An inductor in series or a big ferrite clamp-on wouldn’t hurt either.","attachment":null,"posted":1715009592},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796288
.............A
HYDROCHLORIC
..............I
.............D","attachment":null,"posted":1715012380},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796361,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796055
> Are you sure it's not 50/60Hz, due to your actual sample rate being different?
>>2796295
> Yeah, I’m guessing this is actually 60 Hz hum.
I'm not so sure. I measured the time it takes for 860 samples and I get a very consistent 1076ms, which is only slightly longer than expected.
Within 500 samples (the total number of samples in each image I posted), that is ~625ms that have passed. If I am seeing 19 peaks in the signal over those 625ms then that would be 32-33Hz, right?
> Let me guess, the potentiometer shafts are aluminum and you’re turning them by hand. You’re supposed to put plastic knobs on them.
I'm turning the plastic knobs on them by hand, yes. Though I get the same signal issue when I bypass the potentiometer completely so I don't think that's the issue.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715018780355354.png","filename":"signal.png"},"posted":1715018780},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796361
Okay, I think it might be my computer's power supply doing something odd. I tried powering the board from my laptop and the signal is gone and I'm measuring a range of ~10 values.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715019392093344.png","filename":"laptoppower.png"},"posted":1715019392},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796393,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796361
I’ve never encountered any technology that samples at under 1 kHz. I’m not sure anything can be learned from that. Even your laptop mic in can probably do at least 44 kHz. Try that and look at it on audacity, lol!
Then do an FFT on it so we can see the spectrum.
I used to do this to clean up bad VHS and Betamax recordings with annoying background noises in them. VLC can do it too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715022113},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796393
> I’ve never encountered any technology that samples at under 1 kHz.
The ADS1115 is an ADC that provides 16-bit samples at ~860 times per second in continuous mode.
> I’m not sure anything can be learned from that. Even your laptop mic in can probably do at least 44 kHz. Try that and look at it on audacity, lol! Then do an FFT on it so we can see the spectrum.
I'm not trying to measure audio or do any sort of spectrum processing. I just want to measure the outputs of some actuators to keep them in sync.","attachment":null,"posted":1715027186},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796425
> ADS1115
Yeah, it’s for DC voltages (as the datasheet says, battery voltage monitoring)
Not generally useful for determining the frequency components of noise from a switching power supply that operates in the kHz range, or 10s of kHz most likely.
You can definitely hear 60 and 32 Hz, that’s audio range. Put it through a capacitor in series to remove the DC component.
BTW… and I’m sure you have… considered rotary encoders?","attachment":null,"posted":1715033966},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796519,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796493
Are you implying it was aliasing a much higher frequency? Definitely possible, I think by changing the sample rate a small amount he'd see a significant difference in the noise frequency. The moral of the story is to use a multipole anti-aliasing filter.","attachment":null,"posted":1715037734},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796540,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796519
Or random sampling. After a few minutes or, perhaps hours at that sampling speed… should be able to get a pretty complete waveform.
My oscilloscope does this to get insanely high speed periodic waveforms.
It’s literally like watching the wave pattern slowly materialize while shooting single electrons through a double slit.","attachment":null,"posted":1715042197},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796547,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796493
> BTW… and I’m sure you have… considered rotary encoders?
The linear actuators I got have potentiometers built into them. There's newer ones that use some hall effect sensors that act as encoders, but getting a set of those would be a bit expensive.","attachment":null,"posted":1715045231},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796561,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796540
Huh, that's pretty neat.","attachment":null,"posted":1715046915},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796656,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">19v 65VA trafo = ~25V DC Full Bridge
Is this getting "toasty"?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715086332701236.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715086332},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796665,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
guys I attempted to get into serious electrician job training and I failed after 3 months as I wasn't quick enough with learning and fell behind the class. Also the teachers were bastards :(","attachment":null,"posted":1715088022},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796665
What were you having trouble with?","attachment":null,"posted":1715088602},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796674,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796671
Rearranging equations was my biggest problem, followed by calculating with octal and hexadecimal numeral systems and remembering some rules for how you calculate common components in circuits. It was very rushed and I wasn't quick enough and lacked the time to learn due to long commute to work and school. Also suffered autism related problems in class. But I still like electronics","attachment":null,"posted":1715089148},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796678,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796674
Keep studying and trying. The only way to fail is to give up. Seek a mentor for guidance and advice, and practice solving problems on your own time. Try again when you feel that you're ready. You might have to come to this conclusion through denial and error but I swear on my mother's mating name that when you put the petal to the medal you will pass with flying carpets like it’s a peach of cake.","attachment":null,"posted":1715090728},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796665
The biggest redpill for me was that it you can't rely on teachers to actually teach you things, or even give you an idea of what you need to learn. It is your duty to teach yourself. As the other anon said, a mentor that you can actually trust to have your education in his/her interest is very beneficial, if you can acquire such a person. But for people, time is money, and the cheapest time is your own.
>>2796674
>Rearranging equations
Do an online course or whatever on algebra. The triangle method is useful. A foundation in mathematics is what a lot of stuff is built onto, and I found getting into a course that implies mathematical knowledge that you don't have is a recipe for failure.
>octal and hexadecimal
Huh? Electricians need to know non-decimal number bases? Isn't that only ever used for computer engineering?
>commute
If you're on a bus or train, get yourself a workflow that you can do extra work on the bus, be it a laptop or just pen and paper. If you're driving, there isn't much you can do, maybe listen to audio lessons, or listen to podcasts or whatever that you'd normally be doing at home. A shitty commute can really kill your motivation, I guess consider living closer to the learning institute if possible. Otherwise, teaching yourself the rough outline of the course, and the foundational mathematics, should get yourself into a place where you can take the course while keeping up.
>autism
Is a superpower, at least outside of group projects. You just have to understand it and learn how to direct your attention properly.","attachment":null,"posted":1715116778},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796783
> octal for computer engineering
Even octal isn’t really used for computer engineering, it died out in the 80s. Digital isn’t making many new PDP11s anymore. There’s just some vestigial uses for it nowadays.","attachment":null,"posted":1715121743},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796909,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">LMP7721 3-Femtoampere Input Bias Current Precision Amplifier
Why use such exotic OA if whatever device built with it could be calibrated to account for the offset current? Just wire it as a unity buffer and attach a voltage source and a 10Meg resistor in series to V+ , and measure Vout. That will be your offset, including input voltage offset as well. Any complications with this approach?","attachment":null,"posted":1715138539},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796918,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796909
Mass production.
Op amp itself, the IC, and SMD are all products of mass production and getting costs down.
Easier to buy the part than have some kind of laser trimmer on your line.
Ever seen them adjust those TV tuners found in your atari for channel 3? There’s someone that has to take a plastic screwdriver and pry apart the little coils until they have the right properties, and then put wax over it (sometimes there is a little sponge inside the coil to help hold it) to keep it in position.","attachment":null,"posted":1715139570},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796921,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796674
I don't know why you'd ever need hex numbers, but I wish I learned them early enough, preferably at the same time as the multiplication table. Since we know it since childhood, we never have to calculate 7x6, everyone immediately knows it is 42. Same thing with the hex. Ideally you just look at 0x1000 and you just know it is 4k. I periodically forget and have to re-program my memory. I typical think of each position as 4 (since 16=2^4), and sum them so in this case it is 000 => 4+4+4 = 12 so it is 2^12 = 4k. But like I said the idea is not even to think about that and just know that 0x10000 is 64k etc. Of course in my case the purpose is not to convert any number, but just know the ballpark when figuring out memory requirements etc, or for example for microcontrollers, say if SRAM is 20k, and I know that 4k is 0x1000, 20k = 0x5000. etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715139882},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796924,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796918
I guess another reason is, as Dave mentioned in a video about his nanoamp meter, is that so it would just work, without any calibration, since most people don't have precise equipment that is needed for calibration. Which is funny, since that begs a philosophical question: what are you trying to achieve? Why would you even need a precise nanometer if you cannot verify how precise it is? Their metrology threads is pure autism but still a very interesting read.","attachment":null,"posted":1715140283},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796930,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796678
Thank you anon, that's very inspiring. Now about to begin a new job training in public administration but I might come back to electronics in the future. At a minimum I'll keep working and continue learning about it as a hobby nevertheless because it's such an interesting and practical field.
>>2796783
Thank you aswell for your kind words and advice. I was always told "who writes is who stays" meaning that if I always listen and just write things down I wouldn't have to worry lol but I'll have to swallow that red pill too now. Good idea regarding online courses, I will check out that triangle method and I'll look consider how I can improve my workflow.
>Huh? Electricians need to know non-decimal number bases?
Oh then it was because of the IT part of the training, as the job was a mix of electronics and IT. I wasn't sure if all electronics technicians have to learn this. Exact job title: electronics technician for devices and systems.
>You just have to understand it and learn how to direct your attention properly.
ig you're right. From experience I can focus and learn very well if I am in an adequate sized class with not much output stimuli. During job training I was in a big hall with at least 50 other trainees and when we changed into the school rooms it was too cramped, loud and smelly (body odours)","attachment":null,"posted":1715141495},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2796971,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796930
>new job training in public administration
good ridance
last thing we need in the profession is another lunk who doesnt even count their change in hex
doesnt even own a binary clock","attachment":null,"posted":1715152457},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797091,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"do you know if coin battery holders only differ by diameter regardless of the thickness, 2016/2032 should both fit in the same holder due to the spring action?","attachment":null,"posted":1715185909},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797115,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797091
2016 might be a tad too thin to make reliable contact, but 2025 works in a standard 2032 socket.","attachment":null,"posted":1715188464},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797148,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797091
not unless you use a quarter as a shim","attachment":null,"posted":1715192285},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797150,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">at work our old 3D printer, a Zortrax M200, just died without a clear reason
>I volunteered to try a quick diagnosis, it was a slow week anyway
>black silkscreen everywhere, multiple mysterious daughter boards, all main chips with grinded out markings
>ALL issues on the Zortrax forum were solved privately
>basically no documentation anywhere
>get filled with impotent rage
Even if I were an EE (I'm mech) I doubt I could have done anything in a reasonable timeframe. This is relevant because I was considering a Bambu P1S, as I have little free time and I want a printer that just works out of the box without fiddling, but I read it's an Apple-like kind of product and I don't want to find myself with a brick I can't repair like it happened with the Zortrax. What would you anons recommend?","attachment":null,"posted":1715192386},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797150
Did you check to see if any fuses were blown?
Are the power rails good?
Sounds like it’s fixable, unlike a sony TV where all errors are the TCON board with one big chip on it which is unobtainium.","attachment":null,"posted":1715193041},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797152
Yeah, power rails were good, no clear sign of a short, no blown caps, and the silkscreen made understanding the topology a bit hard for my untrained eye. Besides, it happened weeks ago.","attachment":null,"posted":1715195671},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797171,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How does this circuit work? I can kinda guess that gain=1000 is 100k divided by 100ohm, but why is 100 ohm resistor connected across the inputs?? never seen this before. shouldn't the opamp try to make V- = V+? but this is not possible since there will be a voltage drop across the resistor! wouldn't that drive the OA crazy??? and why are there two 50k resistors on both ends? why not make it a standard voltage divider 100k/100???","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715195762721217.jpg","filename":"Vos.jpg"},"posted":1715195762},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797223,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797150
>I just realized this is /ohm/ and not /3dpg/
I'm retarded.","attachment":null,"posted":1715204087},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797251,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797223
Don't worry, you fit right in.","attachment":null,"posted":1715209720},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797327,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797171
That looks like the “offset drift test circuit” and is probably not useful.
They put the thing in an oven, turn it on, and the offset drift due to thermal changes is compensated by a nulling loop running as 330 Hz, so it returns to zero in 3 minutes or so. They recommend enclosing it.
There’s also an “air flow detector” circuit that amplifies the thermal drift, but normally you’d enclose the device to protect it from air currents.
Not a generally useful circuit, so that explains why you don’t understand it. It outputs 0 V.
Also in the datasheet, they made typographic error for tin oxide resistors.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715226248062899.jpg","filename":"C16191CF-4158-40F7-AE56-6E77C38B8795.jpg"},"posted":1715226248},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797170
> power rails good…
Yeah, unfortunately I have the same problem. I’ve seen 100s of youtube videos with people fixing all sorts of shit and it’s almost always the power or caps, or fuse, etc. I never get anything that easy.
I think there’s 100,000 unposted videos where they couldn’t fix it.
In your case, without more information, we might as well assume it’s something like the “service engine soon” light in a BMW… a logic bomb or runtime counter that has to be reset by someone with the private key.","attachment":null,"posted":1715226686},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797091
Coin cells are evil.
Hook up a AA holder to whatever it was that uses the coin cell, and either glue the thing to the hilder if it’s small, or glue the holder in or on the thing if it’s big.","attachment":null,"posted":1715226923},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797349,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797327
>Also in the datasheet, they made typographic error for tin oxide resistors.
i hope someone got fired for that blunder.
i once was reading a datasheet for an MCU and one of the address registers was just completely wrong. the only hint was that the address space overlapped the next one if you did the math. only remedy was pulling up a more recent version of the document. very insidious.","attachment":null,"posted":1715229539},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797359,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797349
Yeah, I found another one the other day.
Some retard intern at TI decided to replace a bunch of ‘-‘ characters with the more wordy and English appropriate word ‘to’ making it incorrect.
TI is usually pretty good, at least it was in the olden days. Everything is gradually turning to shit.
One guy posted a TI schematic with an extra (and wrong) short circuit connection in it. I hope he didn’t burst a vein, that would be pretty annoying.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715230649568295.jpg","filename":"7D78A913-DBA7-4B0F-88CA-77F2A29E70BB.jpg"},"posted":1715230649},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797359
>retard intern at TI
more likely, Muslims
many introduce mistakes into their work
as it proves only Allah is perfect
although Andrew Tate comes close","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715231853953189.jpg","filename":"allah is is is is is.jpg"},"posted":1715231853},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797330
>leaks hydroxide on your pcb
nothing personnel
>>2797349
>remedy was pulling up a more recent version of the document.
You should go out of your way to download the latest version by getting important datasheets directly from the manufacturer's website.","attachment":null,"posted":1715233742},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
I've got a 100L hot water heater that I want to heat using Solar Panels (4 x 250W).
Why solar panels over actual solar water heating? Because I got these panels for very cheap ($10AUD each).
I've also tested that this is feasible in the sense that
>using a 500W element @ 24V, the water heats up to ~80C in ~1 day assuming good sun
>the water maintains 40-50C after two days of no power being applied to the element
Assuming I run the panels in series (~96V), would I be able to get away with a standard thermostat controller? Or would current probably still be too high (high current relays are expensive).
I haven't done the math yet, but I'm assuming that because a heating element is basically just a resistor, I could swap out for an "AC" heating element too?","attachment":null,"posted":1715234318},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797376
1100L of water = 5550 mol of water
heat capacity of water = 75.385 J/(mol•K)
heat capacity of 100L water = 418.450 kJ/K
If you want to get that water from 20°C to 80°C, that's 60K difference
heat required = 25.107MJ = 7kWh
So 4•250W of constant power will get the water from 20-80C in 7 hours. But you could only get that much continuous power by having your PV panels on gimbals, which you probably don't want to do. If you angle them towards the equator you'll get maybe half of that.
It also assumes maximum power point tracking, which you won't get just by piping the panels into a resistive heater. Pic related is the output of a PV panel, if you pick the wrong size resistance you'll get way less than 250W per panel if it's directly connected. You'll probably want some form of MPPT controller, though I'm not sure if conventional MPPT charge controllers will pipe energy into a resistive load with no battery. It's probably a problem that's been tackled before, with any luck you can just choose the right size resistance and a normal MPPT controller will think everything is fine, maybe using some funny configs and/or a little voltage divider. I advise using a length of nichrome that you can adjust the length of via crocodile clips.
Consider running the water behind the panels before it gets heated resistively, it will both cool the panels (cooler panels are more efficient) and use the waste heat for heating the water further. There are also some really easy diy solar water heating panels out there, Tech Ingredients did a good one.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715235436050244.png","filename":"funi.png"},"posted":1715235436},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"This is the wiring diagram of a manual lathe with a 3-phase motor. What does the leftmost part do? Lines 17 and 18 connect to 2 poles of the 3-phase motor. I'm guessing it's a brake, since the lathe doesn't have any fancy functions.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715254293843118.jpg","filename":"sn32 wiring 2.jpg"},"posted":1715254293},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797613,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What does this shrugging symbol indicate?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715291430417071.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240509_171331__01.jpg"},"posted":1715291430},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797618,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797613
a square wave signal that modulates the MOSFET gates.","attachment":null,"posted":1715291943},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797624,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797618
well yes, but I've also seen the reverse signal ...
i.e. _||_
there must be a difference?","attachment":null,"posted":1715292256},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797625,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797624
The symbol in your image means "active low signal".","attachment":null,"posted":1715292421},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797626,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797624
Maybe a 90% duty cycle PWM signal.","attachment":null,"posted":1715292442},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797625
yes that's exactly it, thank you
so to activate this gate I set the logical value on the connected pin to 0","attachment":null,"posted":1715293370},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797711,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"i need a +/- 18V bipolar supply. i already have pic related. anyone have experience with using 2 of these wire in series for a quick and dirty bipolar supply? they have floating outputs so they shouldn't instantly explode. i would put a reverse biased diode across each power supply to prevent negative voltages at startup.
>just get a dual output linear power supply and stop being a cheap faggot
i plan to, just dont want to spend $300+ right now.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715303409939076.png","filename":"Capture.png"},"posted":1715303409},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I suspect that a 0.1% 1mohm resistor could be a waste of money. 0.1% of 1 mohm is 1 uOhm. that's such a ridiculously small resistance, the solder job and the contact between the part and the PCB would have to so perfect i am not sure if that is achievable?? i am all for using 1k-10k 0.01% resistors in precision circuits as voltage dividers and such since those resistances are much harder to affect by any external factors. but as for a 1-10 mohm current shunt for 10-50A range, i'd think 1% or 0.5% should be enough. it is harder to do better than that.","attachment":null,"posted":1715303707},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797718,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797714
Can you even measure it that accurately?
We adjust shunts (like a 1” long copper wire on the PCB) by putting it a test jig, and drop some solder on it until it’s within spec. Obviously they are all over-valued, it’s a lot harder to remove material using this technique.","attachment":null,"posted":1715304580},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797723,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797380
>You'll probably want some form of MPPT controller
Thanks heaps, the resistance curves are actually what had been confusing me.
I was trying to work out ways to keep any kind of "power controller" out of the system, but I might have to do something like this. The controllers I've tried (for other projects) have required a battery, but will do some experimentation as you've suggested.
>Consider running the water behind the panels before it gets heated resistively
It might be a bit overkill for this use-case. Short story is that I'm building myself a cabin on-the-cheap and am trying to avoid gas heating. I'm able to source cheap second-hand solar panels pretty easily, so if I have to add a few more panels to the setup, I'm okay with that. Piping under the solar panels might cause problems when I'm not around if the connections blow off and drain all the water (I've got a jerry-rigged kitchen system like this with black piping on the roof - stupidly, the plumbing connections are in the sun and they've blown off a few times).
>There are also some really easy diy solar water heating panels out there, Tech Ingredients did a good one.
I might look into these too. If I can do them for cheap, it might be worth it for me.","attachment":null,"posted":1715305134},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797728,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797711
What kind of current do you need? Do you want current limiting, or would an overcurrent latch (or fuse/breaker) be fine? It may be an option to just get a centre-tap transformer and make your own for like $30.
>>2797714
It doesn't matter. ±0.1A is probably fine for your applications, you almost certainly don't need to go down to ±1mA. Also before you go all autistic on tolerance, go somewhat autistic on temperature coefficients too. With the heat generated by the power traces and shunt itself, the thermal drift alone is going to be a good 1%.
>>2797723
You can almost certainly make an MPPT power controller using:
>microcontroller
>current and voltage sensing circuits
>a good gate drive circuit (https://circuitden.com/blog/11 or a dedicated IC)
>inductor and transistor arranged to be a buck converter (or inverting boost, it's easier since it uses an N-channel FET)
And there will be youtube projects describing roughly that. If existing projects are designed to charge a battery, just change the code. Making such a circuit that can handle 1kW isn't trivial, but you can basically just parallelise the thing with more FETs and a bigger inductor until it looks like it will work. The inductor is the expensive part.
I'd consider this an intermediate level project, I'd probably attempt it myself, but it would take some time, and quite possibly a revision or two. Not something I'd recommend for an electronics noob, at least without a sufficiently good tutorial that you don't need to deviate from.","attachment":null,"posted":1715305931},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797730,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797718
Yes and even it was possible to measure it accurately, I am not sure how to achieve <<1uOhm trace resistance. Even 100uOhm is hard. Unless you go with 2oz or thicker. But Kelvin connection certainly helps. I just noticed that Dave uses a 1mohm 0.1% shunt resistor in his uCurrent meter. His main idea was to minimize the burden voltage especially for high currents. In that sense it probably makes sense to reduce the shunt resistance value as much as possible and then use two stages of precision opamps with a gain of 100. Actually I was wrong, he uses a 10mOhm resistor which makes more sense but still it is a 10uOm tolerance. But the original version had a 0.5% resistor which he later replaced with a 0.1%. Not sure if it's worth it.
>it’s a lot harder to remove material using this technique.
desoldering braid wouldn't work easily?","attachment":null,"posted":1715306091},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797728
>What kind of current do you need? Do you want current limiting, or would an overcurrent latch (or fuse/breaker) be fine? It may be an option to just get a centre-tap transformer and make your own for like $30.
like 100 milliamps or less. i'm trying to troubleshoot an op amp circuit. the PCB takes +/- 18V from a flyback and smooths it out with a linear regulator so the switching noise from a bench switcher shouldn't be an issue. i just need bipolar.","attachment":null,"posted":1715306120},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797737,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797728
>Not something I'd recommend for an electronics noob
It's probably a bit out of my league at the moment.
My knowledge of electronics is basically constrained to simple DC circuits and I still don't really have a proper conceptual understanding of electricity actually works (I do want to brush up when I get more free time).
Based on what you're saying though, if I wanted to keep things dead-simple (and not too inefficient), would my best bet be:
>higher resistance heating element (e.g. targeting 500W) so as to avoid ~zero power from insufficient sun >>2797380
>higher voltage so that I can use a cheaper/low-amp relay for thermostat control
I figure if I can get something going now that semi-works, I can probably improve the setup later on with a proper power controller.","attachment":null,"posted":1715307427},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797766,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797731
>like 100 milliamps or less
Even cheaper, ~40VA transformers are pretty common.
>the PCB takes +/- 18V from a flyback and smooths it out with a linear regulator
If your final voltage you're aiming for is ±15V or smaller, you could use your 30V supply with an op-amp to buffer the middle of it.
>>2797737
>higher voltage
Generally yes, though if you're looking for solar controlling hardware that can handle the higher voltage you'd find more options at 24V than 96V. For example, it's probably easier to find a 24V 30A charge controller than a 96V 10A controller, but both will be expensive, neither are investments I'd make without being sure I could configure them to work without a battery.
>high resistance
Well if the maximum power point in full sun is 36V at 6.9A per panel, then you'd want to pick something around 5.18Ω per panel. If you put the panels in series, then that's 20.7Ω total. A 240V 2.4kW heating element is 24Ω, which isn't too far off. The further you deviate from this resistance at full sun, the less power you get. The further the sun angle changes, the less power you get. You'll probably find that a resistance that's somewhat higher than the 20.7Ω will give you more power across the whole day, so 24Ω is definitely a good place to start if you're not going to try and use an MPPT controller.
For a 12V nominal conventional silicon solar panel, maximum power is at ~18V, which I expect is a factor that holds for 24V and 96V systems too. The maximum power voltage for a given illumination doesn't really change much, it stays around that 18/36V level (pic related). Read the back of the panels (or otherwise a datasheet), as these are the numbers I assumed for getting 20.7Ω.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715311412880314.png","filename":"Typical-PV-Current-Voltage-Power-Voltage-Curves-17.ppm.png"},"posted":1715311412},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797774,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797766
>it's probably easier to find a 24V 30A charge controller than a 96V 10A controller
This one doesn't concern me too much - it's easy for me to wire up in parallel later if need be.
>so 24Ω is definitely a good place to start if you're not going to try and use an MPPT controller.
Thanks heaps for all your help, this is great info to start tinkering with.
I'm still a while away from setting this up (need to complete the cabin), but will report back to /diy/ somewhere on how it all goes.
I know this isn't the most elegant or efficient way of doing things but, given the cheapness of second-hand panels, I think it's worth toying with.
If it fails, I can repurpose the panels for other things.","attachment":null,"posted":1715315194},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2797957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to make a car radio, by which I mean something I can plug an aux cable into and adjust the volume, I don't want radio.
I'm thinking that this just requires an amplifier circuit but I really know nothing.
Anyone know of something similar that I might modify to do what I want or have any advice?","attachment":null,"posted":1715359455},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Making a key with display for my project","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715369574397310.webm","filename":"output.webm"},"posted":1715369574},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798034,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797957
the setup in the car makes the biggest difference. If all your speakers are run from a standalone amp, you could just adapt your headphone out to RCA and set your gain accordingly, change volume on the player. Otherwise you need a ~50w 4/2 channel amp module and some method of splicing it into your stereo harness, picrel.
I would desolder the screw terminals and make a pigtail out of the old radio adapter.
For all the effort I would go the amp route but i don't know what the rest of the system is supposed to be","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715372954944221.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240510_141505_Amazon Shopping.jpg"},"posted":1715372954},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798017
Cool","attachment":null,"posted":1715373134},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798017
ive always wished e-ink buttons were a thing. OLED/AMOLED buttons are cool, but i feel like theres a market for a button that could digitally relabel itself and consume virtually zero power.","attachment":null,"posted":1715391643},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798017
Reminds me of that guy who potted a tiny OLED and MCU in a lego piece and played Doom on it. Very neat. What's the project?","attachment":null,"posted":1715394094},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798241,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798180
> e-ink display buttons
Yeah, sounds cheap. And small, too.
I’m sure they would be epic looking.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715403214853755.jpg","filename":"5FE1246F-9658-405D-82EE-82DF95DE6442.jpg"},"posted":1715403214},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798309,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"L)>>2795412
Yes I think this is a good starter kit. These are all passive components.
As >>2795420 said, ICs (integrated circuits) are not passives, and the budget Chinese ICs (especially beware of op amps where it really matters) behaviour may differ from their specification/datasheet in ways that make them unusable. FWIW I do buy Chinese ICs and have been mostly happy.","attachment":null,"posted":1715431521},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798393,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798241
(((they))) keep e-ink prices artificially high and keep innovation slow, a device with couple of such keys would double the device's price","attachment":null,"posted":1715447788},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794190
charge them up to 9v and put your tongue to the leads, you'll be able to identify the faulty one","attachment":null,"posted":1715448172},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798409,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">8800mah
these things are bullshit right? they are like half the size of AA batteries and claiming mah up to 8800mah.
How much capacity should I expect from these 16340 li-on batteries while searching for a legit one?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715451321589950.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715451321},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798416,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798409
A half-size AA is a 14250 and has 300 mAh typically. Your batter is slightly larger, the dimensions are in those numbers, so you can scale the capacity with the volume.
There are no new revolutionary battery chemistries out there, in the works, or even physically possible. Only minor variations, with different tradeofs. Even lithium ion has about half the recharge cycles when compared with, say, NiCd, and Li-Ion is more dangerous, expensive, more sensitive to damage from cold, destroyed by deep discharge, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715454802},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798419,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to amplify the output of a thermocouple, how do I do it? The thermocouples I have (unknown type, chinkshit) measure around 0 volts at room temperature, while body temperature outputs around 400uV. Assuming near-linearity I'll have to amplify in the millivolt range, but it's two orders of magnitude from the minimum input voltage the opamps I have require from datasheet. Is it just a matter of biasing the input above 0.3V and then leverage a 100:1 gain or is there a better topology?
I tried doing a 1000:1 non-inverting with a RC4558, but the output is nonsense, so I assume the input voltage is just too low.","attachment":null,"posted":1715455104},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798423,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798393
Sounds just like ink jet printers! Why are “they” trying to corner the market on everything related to “ink” — I don’t get it.
e-Ink displays seem similar to LCD, and LCD requires sweet bugger all to maintain their displays… like less than battery self-discharge rates of power. And LCD is cheap as dirt.","attachment":null,"posted":1715455506},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798436,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798419
> minimum voltage
I think you’re looking at the offset voltage. It doesn’t exactly mean that.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715456553971791.jpg","filename":"A536DCBA-F9FC-4344-959C-C4E3E08B57A1.jpg"},"posted":1715456553},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798471,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798423
>e-Ink displays seem similar to LCD
the difference is e-ink screens are patented as fuck and a lot of things are proprietary","attachment":null,"posted":1715461891},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798419
Either get an op-amp that can sense down to 0V (RRIO or maybe just ground-sensing), or use an intermediate voltage reference to push the thermocouple above the 0V rail. I'd do the latter, as the thermocouple voltage can go both above and below 0V. In my image I've shown it as a differential amplifier referencing ground with respect to a bipolar power supply, but you could just as easily use a second op-amp to buffer a voltage divider to be halfway between your rails, or even use a dedicated voltage reference IC/diode. So long as the reference can push and pull current. You could replace the single resistor to ground with a pair of resistors to the rails (of twice the resistance), but then you wouldn't have a reference to use for future measurement.
You could also use a dedicated thermocouple amplifier IC, or even a thermocouple digitiser IC that takes care of the cold-side temperature compensation for you. Thermocouples measure a differential in temperature, hence why the voltage at room temperature was 0V. All practical thermocouple measurement circuits have some method of measuring the temperature at the termination of the thermocouple wires, often a thermistor but maybe a diode or digital temperature sensor IC. If you get a linear enough sensor circuit and get the gains right, you could use an analogue summing amplifier to combine the two temperature measurements to get the absolute temperature of the thermocouple. But most people would digitise both and do any math and calibration and nonlinearity compensation digitally. Analogue signals aren't that useful, unless you're building an analogue PID loop, or displaying temperature on a moving coil meter.
As the other anon alludes to, the most important feature for your op-amp is low input offset voltage. IIRC CMOS op-amps are best for this, but definitely do your own research. The differential amplifier circuit I drew should cancel out input bias current, unlike a conventional inv/noninv amplifier.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715463036239878.png","filename":"tegaki.png"},"posted":1715463036},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798481
>unless you're building an analogue PID loop
Bingo! I'll try with your circuit, thanks.","attachment":null,"posted":1715464321},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798604,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"how do you shop for power conditioners/EMI filters? tripp-lite isobar is supposed to be the gold standard, but it's not affordable in my country. many of the CW4L2-10A-S or CW4L2-10A-T based power strips have anecdotal reviews saying they improve the sound quality of hi-fi systems. they can be had for as little as $20. then there are DIY solutions like pic related which seems simple enough to assemble, but how would i know if it performs as good as tripp-lite isobar?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715484101649668.jpg","filename":"Untitled.jpg"},"posted":1715484101},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"1> The first stage is the RFI filter DC circuit. Through two pieces 50A bridge stacks and 2 pieces 35V2200UF capacitors, Filter the DC component of the AC power supply to suppress buzzing caused by saturation of the DC component transformer or increased static current.
2> The second stage is differential mode filtering, two differential inductors, differential mode filtering of AC power supply, to suppress medium and high frequency interference.
3> The third and the fourth stages are common mode filtering, through the X2 capacitor and common mode inductor, combined into the common mode filter.
Due to it is use of Four stages filtering, so the filtering effect is more better. In view of the problem of rapid transient group pulse interference with repetition rate of several kilohertz in some users, it can play an inhibitory role.
This module is used in conjunction with a decoder or power amplifier to filter the DC component of the power supply, eliminate and suppress the hum of the transformer, the high-frequency noise in the power supply, purify the power supply, and can significantly improve the sound quality of the power amplifier, enhance the resolution and make the background quiet.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005422329779.html","attachment":null,"posted":1715484420},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798613,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"btw i'm all about the noise filtering and not surge protection. i already have a belkin surge protector which i could modify like pic related.
this power strip has surge protection built in:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005422368771.html
with EMI filter but without surge protection:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005119066552.html","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715484972517983.jpg","filename":"Untitled.jpg"},"posted":1715484972},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798620,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">DC blockers don't really improve sound unless you had a lot of DC. However if you have DC that's bad, you sure as hell want to get rid of, it's loud when it goes to the transformers.
>They use electrolytic capacitors (in a way that doubles their voltage rating using two at a time), but they are slightly more complicated than that. Here's a google image search with several variance in schematic and pics of working ones.
>By and large enoise is the worst enemy, but if you got bad DC by all means a DC blocker is going to be your good friend.","attachment":null,"posted":1715486238},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798622,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Maybe... A lot of replacement light sources like CFLs and LEDs, many dimmer circuits, and a lot of the SMPS (switch-mode power supply) units in almost all electrical/electronic stuff these days kick back charge into the line and cause distortion that leads to what can look like DC to a transformer. We live in a rural'ish area and power delivery is not great, but I was surprised at how much noise there was at the wall outlets of a number of places down in the "big city" as well as around home. That said I am not sure I ever saw any impact at the output of the power supply after rectification and filtering, but in several places adding a DC blocking filter did fix some transformer hum. I've forgotten the details, but IIRC the magnitude of common-mode offset needed to induce hum in a toroidal transformer was a lot less than I expected (led to me doing a little more research to find out why).","attachment":null,"posted":1715486459},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798624,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798604
I don’t shop for them, I take them out of microwave ovens and reputable appliances. I have a lifetime supply. I even have some from back in the 70s and 80s where electronic equipment (including a lot of computers) had these metal hermetically sealed units, many of them had that little IBM PC style plug coming out of it. You know the kind I’m talking about?
Also take the linear power supply pill. A bigass 12V transformer will take out a lot of shit, plus isolated. In fact, audiophiles have 1:1 isolation transformers from, say, hammond that do exactly that.
Also note that those MOVs are tiny. Replace with bigger ones. Even on your power bar, do you realize the MOVs wear out when they absorb power spikes eh? Anyway, you can easily build your own. And hermetically seal it with some sheet metal.
> aren’t the capacitors going to be bad in the 70s units?
No, usually caps go bad due to under speccing them, hot environments, and leaks. These are hermetically sealed so caps likely fine. Also it was before the influx of “consumable” caps from china.
I think that modern devices should have a plug-in slot like a fuse, 9v backup clock battery, or some D cell-sized holders for your cheap Chinese capacitors so they’re easy to replace. MOVs, too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715486655},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798625,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798471
> patented as fuck.
All we have to do is get the chinese to start caring about making them. They use the patent filings as a goddamn instruction manual.
I’ sure they don’t even give one fuck about patent IP, so it’s win-win. Now we need the government to fuck off and not hold up my temu shipment since it might have a bullshit gucci logo with an incorrect serial number, oh god forbid.","attachment":null,"posted":1715486988},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798632,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798620
>DC blockers
Never heard of these before. Doesn't having any net DC current imply you've got loads that run on a half wave rectifier? And even if you do, why would such a load be after a transformer? If it's a load in parallel with the transformer, I can't imagine it would be significant unless your wiring is real shitty and the rectified appliance draws a lot of power. Maybe some heaters do this for a half-power mode, idk. Don't use shitty appliances.
>>2798624
I think those are Y caps, not MOVs. MOVs aren't for power filtration at all, they're for surge protection, so I imagine they're meant to be seperate.
>metal hermetically sealed units
The old ones explode and get gunge all over the inside of your enclosure. Marco Reps showed that in a video or two of his. X and X2 caps have always been consumable parts, unless you somehow have a perfect sine mains lacking any spikes, which would defeat the purpose of having X caps in the first place.","attachment":null,"posted":1715488404},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798632
my house is from the 70s, outlets aren't grounded except in the kitchen and bathrooms. i don't know the technical details but everything that's connected to the mains makes a slight humming noise if you care to listen for it when it's quiet at night. buzzing noise is a common complaint on corsair PSUs but it's on everything like my NEC monitor or LED lightbulbs. it's quiet enough that i'm not sure if everyone has it and the average person just doesn't notice or care. it's a transformer buzz that is heard regardless of the power draw, a separate issue from ground loop or the type of coil whine that becomes louder in higher loads like gaming.","attachment":null,"posted":1715490466},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798644,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798632
the transformers mentioned in >>2798620 >>2798622 are inside the device like the PSU in a computer or a hi-fi amplifier or a guiter amplifier and they would make a humming or buzzing noise","attachment":null,"posted":1715490605},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798666,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"in a PSU the average person wouldn't notice it unless the PSU has 0 rpm fan mode and there's no other fan or HDD running and you would have to have your ear pretty close to it in a quiet room","attachment":null,"posted":1715497920},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798688,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Can someone recommend me a circuit that only consists of a basic inductor and capacitor and no other elements. I already know the LC filters, LC resonators and LC matching networks so something else?","attachment":null,"posted":1715506512},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798697,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798688
LC balun, wilkinson divider, directional coupler","attachment":null,"posted":1715507816},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798707,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798644
Computer PSUs are SMPSs, they shouldn't hum but they might have some coil whine. They rectify the current going into them anyhow so any net DC shouldn't impact them whatsoever.
Conventional iron AC transformers like in old-style amplifiers are prone to hum, and I can kinda see why a net DC current being put through them might make that worse, but I can't see how that net DC current would get there in the first place. The transformer itself only couples AC, and after it there will almost certainly be a full wave rectifier. Then back at the power pole, you also have an AC coupling transformer. As I said in my previous post, I can maybe see it happening if you have a half-wave rectified high-power load on the same phase somewhere, but even that's a stretch.","attachment":null,"posted":1715510078},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798758,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798707
the reason i started looking into this stuff was
>Since it's making the noise when idle, it's safe to assume that the noise is coming from the PFC choke coil, which means it could still be from mains noise.
>Have you considered an EMI/RFI filter, like a Tripp-Lite ISOBAR?
https://forum.corsair.com/forums/topic/165666-corsair-hx1000i-very-loud-coil-whine-buzzing/
however on my AX860i it is clearly not coming from the PFC inductor (#3 in pic related)
https://forum.corsair.com/blog/icue-controllers/ax860i-technical-details/
from listening to the fully assembled PSU (so i could not reach everything very precisely) with an empty toilet paper roll i suspected #16 (LLC resonant inductor) during standby, and both #16 and #10 (LLC main transformer) when running in self test mode (as if the computer is running). i applied epoxy resin with an oral syringe mainly inside #16 because it was easier to reach with the coil visibily exposed and it was able to hold a lot of resin without spilling, but i also applied some in #10. the noise was significantly reduced but didn't disappear completely. i think this will be adequate especially with sound deadening foam and optimal placement of the computer under my desk or whatever. but if the buzzing could be eliminated via EMI filter or DC blocker for <$20, also on my LCD monitor, that would be sweet.
another mention of DC blocker
>The hum some people are getting may be due to excessive DC on their AC lines. Some transformers react this way to DC. I would try a DC blocker in such a case.
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/21206-group-buy-for-full-atx-linear-psu-from-teradak/page/22/","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715520307908679.jpg","filename":"blog_ax860i_technical_details-Content-15.JPG.b64a701076c3d9ab0011c23b16a3a5aa.jpg"},"posted":1715520307},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798763,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715520499008059.jpg","filename":"1714436970849588.jpg"},"posted":1715520499},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798764,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"this mentions that AX860i doesn't have a full EMI filter built in
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-ax860i/4.html","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715520585546195.png","filename":"Screenshot.png"},"posted":1715520585},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798772,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-ax1200i/5.html","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715521320953159.png","filename":"Screenshot.png"},"posted":1715521320},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"copper crimp ferrules like pic rel are much better than aluminium ones. prove me wrong","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715524917615064.jpg","filename":"s-l1600.jpg"},"posted":1715524917},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798827,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Hi
>My friend got a chance to test many SMPS PSU and he told me that his choice is corsair AX 1200i . It was better than Ax 860i and other SMPS PSU such as Seasonic brand
>Recently he tested new model AX 1500i and he concluded that that is the best.
>Before I jump to Teradax I am just a little bit reluctant about Corsair Ax 1200i or 1500i or Teradex.
>I believe that it is unfair to compare SMPS to this Teradak but anyhow sharing ideas is a good choice
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/21206-group-buy-for-full-atx-linear-psu-from-teradak/page/22/
>Contrary to the AX1200i, this 1500 W monster doesn't includes a server-grade EMI filter. The AC receptacle only hosts a couple Y caps. However, the rest of the EMI filter is on the main PCB, and while there is a ton of glue to make the unit coil-whine proof, we managed to identify three CM chokes, two pairs of Y caps, five X caps (one sits right behind the bridge rectifiers), and an MOV. Overall, the EMI/transient filter is more than complete.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-ax1500i/4.html","attachment":null,"posted":1715530759},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798828,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What properties do capacitors lack (besides energy density) to replace batteries? Something about the internal resistance, and a faster discharge rate?","attachment":null,"posted":1715530806},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798832,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798828
>What properties do capacitors lack (besides energy density) to replace batteries?
Energy density.
In most other metrics (like charge/discharge speed, nr of cycles, temp range) caps are superior.","attachment":null,"posted":1715531519},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798832
don't caps discharge pretty much with a linear rate, as opposed to batteries that can stay at close to 100% for a long time?","attachment":null,"posted":1715533176},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798846,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Update:
>My Arcam SR250 does have a minor mechanical transformer hum with my ear to the vents. The CMX2 does successfully eliminate this mechanical buzz!
>The buzz is below the noise floor of my UMIK-1, so I can hear it with my ears -- but not with the mic.
>For my situation, I bought a new 4K TV and I guess the electronics in it (they are more PC than TV now a days), or maybe it was some new LED ceiling lights I put in, created a hum in my APC H15 Power Conditioner that was really noticible. The APC has an isolation tranformer in it for Voltage Regulation and it was singing a song! Thing is, it would come and go throughout the day.
>So after a whole bunch of moving things around and trying all the isolation tricks, I finally decided to give this DC Offset filter a go. Solved my problem!
>I purchased the Emotiva CMX2 last year to help reduce a hum from a tube headphone amp and it fixed the issue. Fast forward to yesterday my Arcam AVR-850 now has a hum coming from inside the AVR-850. No issues with noise coming from the speakers. I disconnected everything from the back of the AVR-850, noise was still present. I moved the AVR-850 to another electrical outlet and the noise (hum) was still present. Connected the AVR-850 to the CMX2 and it removed the hum and the problem was fixed. I have had the AVR-850 since 2017 and I was thinking great it’s time to either find a local electrician to diagnose the noise / fix or buy another AVR.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/emotiva-cmx2-ac-line-filter-with-dc-offset-eliminator-review-and-measurements.45071/","attachment":null,"posted":1715534387},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798887,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798842
>linear rate
linear enough for Straylia","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715541763158432.png","filename":"cap discharge.png"},"posted":1715541763},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I am near the end of my project but too pussy to move forward","attachment":null,"posted":1715543066},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798899,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798887
I think he means in reference to voltage relative to charge, in which, case, yes, the voltage present at a capacitors terminals is directly proportional to its charge.
>>2798828
>What properties do capacitors lack (besides energy density) to replace batteries?
Energy density. That's literally it. They're straight-up better in every way to an electrochemical cell. Effectively unlimited cycle life and extreme power density.
Well, I guess I can think of two other potential problems. The fact that voltage is proportional to charge can complicate the design of your power supply. At the simplest, you can simply drop a linear regulator in and the battery will happily supply it until it's nearly dead. Depending on your exact application, you may even be able to just power everything directly off the battery. Capacitors would pretty much require some sort of switching power supply, due to the voltage/charge issue. A linear regulator would waste a huge portion of the capacitor's charge, either by being set at the high end and not working once it discharged past the first 20-30%, or at the low end and dumping 70-80% of the capacitor's initial charge as heat.
The other problem is that a catastrophic failure of a battery tends to turn it into a fireball. A catastrophic failure of a capacitor tends to turn it into a bomb.","attachment":null,"posted":1715544695},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798902,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798893
>too pussy to move forward
you've proven to yourself that you COULD finish the project
so, you've already won
actually finishing it would be an act of pure egotism and arrogance
time to start something new and egg-citing","attachment":null,"posted":1715545098},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is this correct general to ask
>how to learn how to make stuff like that, i know how to program https://youtu.be/41qIQzLS304?t=53","attachment":null,"posted":1715546931},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798918,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798913
>is this correct
no, we dont do projects
we argue over esoteric minutiae
you want the arduino general here >>2774325","attachment":null,"posted":1715547815},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2798994,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798842
Yeah, the pack voltage drops quicker with capacitors than with batteries (depending on chemistry, look up lithium ion and lifepo4 discharge curves). But that only becomes a problem if you’re dumping the full voltage through your load at maximum duty-cycle in the first place. In the case of an EV, that would mean full-throttle. Driving around normally you wouldn’t notice much difference, only when you put your foot down would you notice it. Even then you can use field weakening to get up to higher speeds than the pack voltage would conventionally allow for. It’s mainly the torque that will be diminished.
>>2798913
Idk bro I’m not clicking a YouTube link on cellular internet. Did you read the OP?","attachment":null,"posted":1715564181},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"should a seperate analog / digital power supply also have seperate ground planes?
Could switching noise somehow get into the analog plane?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715592082847116.png","filename":"8ba12d73c6808a441b7533c90e3a9da0.png"},"posted":1715592082},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799107,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799105
>should a seperate analog / digital power supply also have seperate ground planes?
Probably, especially if there's high current (spikes) going anywhere. A common method is to use a star ground, or just have a single point where the digital and analogue grounds are connected. You could also connect them with a choke to reduce interference, or even connect them with an appropriate value resistor if there's no supply current that needs to flow between the analogue and digital grounds. You'd still need it to be able to handle signal current though.
There are seperate methods for mitigating common-mode and normal-mode noise. Having seperate Vcc rails, plenty of capacitance, and star grounding should kill any normal-mode noise, common-mode is harder but grounding things properly with low impedance planes is what I'd use. Watch some tutorials on how to lay out grounding for circuits, there are some unintuitive things to learn out there. Like having ground traces/paths that follow your signal traces. You can always add more vias to your board, they don't charge for that at the fab house.","attachment":null,"posted":1715592673},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799119,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799107
Hmmmm. This guy says splitting grounds is a bad idea since it leads to EMI problems:
https://youtu.be/vALt6Sd9vlY
So maybe it will suffice if I just keep a good distance between the analog and digital parts.","attachment":null,"posted":1715598935},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799154,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799119
EMI is largely not a problem unless you’re trying to get a product tested and certified for sale in a socialist country.
If you are DIYing, don’t worry about it.
In fact, there’s so many variables to “creating an antenna” that this advice they are dishing out may as well be reversed to “always split grounds” or you run into EMI problems.","attachment":null,"posted":1715607124},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799172,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799154
Hmmmmm I'm quite undecided on weather I should split the GNDs on my audio circuit.
I'm also undecided on how to best switch audio sources. Initially I thought of using a multiplexer but those add distortion to the audio line, so maybe a relay is the cleanest way after all.
Can I use the GND path of the source to switch it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715609636},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799178,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799172
> switch audio sources
They make mux and “soft” switching ICs exactly for this purpose, they’re just mosfets with a resultant esistive load.
> relay
You are going to blow somehing with the pop n the line with a relay. Only place for a relay in audio is in slow-start current unlimiters in power amplifiers with big caps.","attachment":null,"posted":1715610356},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798625
Pfizer's Viagra patent was thrown out (2012 SCC 60) because it describes billions of molecules without singling out the one that is the actual invention. Patent authors deliberately leave out key details. Pfizer lost the case, but the patent was already about to expire, so they'll do it again. If they would retroactively cancel a patent and give the excess profits back, patents would be worth reading.","attachment":null,"posted":1715617519},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799277,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799178
Which IC would you suggest?
I have HEF4066BE, with the issue that exceeding -0.5v max at the input, it continuously conducts.
Also, it doesn't mention TDH in the datasheet, but if the CD4066 is the same IC, it mentions around 0.1% THD, which is a bit suboptimal, adding that much distortion to my quite low distortion audio chip - TDA1575.","attachment":null,"posted":1715629078},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799280,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799277
>I have HEF4066BE
forget it
the whole family of 4016,4066,4051/52/53 etc cmos switches are crap and have huge crosstalk between channels
either find something modern or use the only guaranteed fool-proof solution: giant relays in steel boxes","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715630801146734.jpg","filename":"my audio switchboard.jpg"},"posted":1715630801},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799305,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799215
why did we trust these people to roll out billions of compulsory experimental vaccines again?","attachment":null,"posted":1715633683},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798758
stop listening to audiokikes","attachment":null,"posted":1715633979},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799310,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799119
Then at least use star grounding.
>>2799277
The DX4xx and DG6xx series analog switch ICs are pretty good, some have seperate supplies for the digital and analogue sections so you don't need to worry about negative voltages. Pic related.
Using relays should be doable before your amplifier, so long as you ensure there's no DC offset to the signals and you have a low-pass filter (f=20kHz) to get rid of the worst pops it should be ok. Using an additional circuit to attenuate the signal during switches be even smoother, maybe a series resistor and a JFET to ground, but it depends on your signal amplitude.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715634410066896.png","filename":"Analog Mux ICs.png"},"posted":1715634410},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799119
just keep everything on one big ground plane, why tf are you splitting supplies","attachment":null,"posted":1715636689},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799341,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799306
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoU5N0RD_Is
this guy found out it was his electrical stove
also i think people in general are just clueless, you might not be aware of the issue if you haven't listened carefully specifically for it when it's dead silent at night
i will try the EMI filter with DC blocker","attachment":null,"posted":1715639368},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799280
What if you just used the cheapest common 12V relays?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715646067198265.jpg","filename":"relay.jpg"},"posted":1715646067},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799383,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799374
>common
why be common when you can be extraordinary?
if frankenstein relays arent your thing you can still be extraordinary by choosing super miniature relays like those found in modern scopes","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715648642999617.jpg","filename":"Tektronix 500Mhz oscilloscope relays.jpg"},"posted":1715648642},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799392,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'd like to power a weather station with a solar cell which sounds like a contradiction. The station needs to be in the shade yet the cell obviously has to be in the direct sun as much as possible. What do?","attachment":null,"posted":1715649887},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799398,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799392
>station in shade
>wire
>cell in sun","attachment":null,"posted":1715650316},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799398
too messy
wireless power would be awesome","attachment":null,"posted":1715650949},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799325
Because noise travels on your power rail, and you can get voltage ripple even on a ground plane if you don’t use a star ground.
>>2799392
It won’t take that much power if it’s designed to run on AAs for a year, use amorphous solar cells. They’re found on calculators and caravan trickle chargers, and work even in very low light levels, at the expense of having a low maximum output.","attachment":null,"posted":1715652773},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799305
It’s not that viagra didn’t work, although I think it was originally a heart medication, it’s that they were not quite legal or ethical in their business dealings, as often is the case in many companies.
Patents are driven by the business side, as an added bonus, they don’t even know enough about the patented process to by “lying”","attachment":null,"posted":1715654713},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799425,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799277
> which IC?
I don’t remember exactly, there are lots of them. I took them out of old stereos over the years. Also soft volume controls are very common:
So, use your relays, but before switching any of them, use the TDA1524 volume control to automatically lower the volume of the amplifier to nearly zero. That way there will be no pop when the relay’s contacts open and close.
This is pretty standard practice.
Most modern stereos do this at power on, too, and use soft muxes that implement the same feature when you switch inputs. My yamaha amp I got for free out of a dumpster has these relays when I switch inputs.
I’d probably use big relays so there is a satisfying kerchunk noise when switching them. My amp makes a “kertink” which sounds weak.
Relays on oscilloscopes are also important because of the high speeds (RF) involved. Relays are also commonly used in RF switches.
You’re not gonna notice the (maybe) .1% distortion from the cd4066 on a little home-grade amp.","attachment":null,"posted":1715656015},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"can someone explain me how to make an efficient charge pump voltage doubler, without sending massive current spikes from a square wave into the capacitor(s)?","attachment":null,"posted":1715661039},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799443
How much current are we talking. All you need is a sine-wave oscillator and you can do that with one transistor easily enough. Often, they need a coil to oscillate, and that coil can also act as the boost inductor. Kind of like the so-called “joule thief” circuit.","attachment":null,"posted":1715662488},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799465,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have a printer (big boy) that has this earth wire running from a rail that just hangs loose. The rail it’s connected to is already connected to the earth wire in the power cord so I have no clue why this would just dangle here. Any clues?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715664413556500.jpg","filename":"8B4229DB-74B0-4179-8401-2926240F463E.jpg"},"posted":1715664413},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799477,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799310
Thank you Anon!
Should I put the OP amp VCC pins to POWER or SIGNAL GND?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715666800615727.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_08-05-01.jpg"},"posted":1715666800},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799310
Should I put a switching converter in there at all?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715667487265966.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_08-17-44.jpg"},"posted":1715667487},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799482,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799310","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715667568761449.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_08-19-29.jpg"},"posted":1715667568},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799491,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799452
I have a few projects that would use it. One is just a charge pump for keeping high-side MOSFET gates charged up, probably around 10mA consumption or less. For that I already tested using a 10Ω resistor in series with the cap and it seems to work fine. The other though is to run 1A of LEDs, which may or may not be a suitable application for a charge pump.
>sine
>inductor
Kinda defeats the point of using a charge pump, if I need an inductor anyway I'll just make a boost converter, with the feedback and extra space that requires.
>>2799477
OP-amps should usually be on the signal side, definitely on the signal side so long as you're using them as amplifiers and not comparators. Though they have decent PSRR so it's not as critical as an ADC.
>>2799481
>switching converter
Depends on the project, if the inefficiency and heat generation of a 7805 isn't a problem I'd use one just for simplicity. Not that there's a difference if you have pre-made modules. The issues with switching converters are numerous but not insurmountable:
>noise back to its input: use large caps on the input of the converter and on the grounding star point
>radiated magnetic noise: minimise loop areas in your circuit, especially around high-impedance analogue signals, consider iron shielding cans around the converter and/or delicate signals
>noise out its output: not an issue if it's powering digital shit, this is bad for ADCs that lack seperate supplies
>radiated electric noise: use grounded guard traces between switching supply nodes/rails and high impedance analogue signal nodes, consider metal can shielding
>mystery noise: try ferrite sleeves, optical coupling, idk
>>2799482
I did not know KiCAD had these. I've been using SolderJumper_2_Bridged all this time.","attachment":null,"posted":1715671764},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799496,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799491
I'm already exceeding the max power rating of my transformer by a few Watts...
Getting those 200mA that I suppose my Arduino+LCD down from 25 to 5V with a linear regulator will devour around 5W.
On the other side I don't want to risk adding noise to my audio rail. Pic related seems to have isolated coils. Is this any good?
I saw the dg211bdyz quite cheap on aliexpress. The datasheet says they can go down to -2V at the input. So I think I'll go with that , if you don't have any objections.
ib4 reddit formatting","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715673573943192.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_09-58-35.jpg"},"posted":1715673573},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799491
>use caps on the grounding star point
like this?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715674601337723.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_10-16-00.jpg"},"posted":1715674601},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799491
Instead of switching the L - R path could I also just switch the GND path?
I'd only need 1 IC for the 4 inputs I want to switch then.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715680786202157.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_11-58-58.jpg"},"posted":1715680786},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799522,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anon","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715684175602754.jpg","filename":"1711721224338900.jpg"},"posted":1715684175},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799523,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799491
(You)","attachment":null,"posted":1715684236},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799528,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799515
>could I also just switch the GND path?
no, that's insane
likely there'll be signal coupling thru the power supply, so some level of sound will always leak thru","attachment":null,"posted":1715685685},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799530,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm still worried the switching converter could interfere with my audio circuitry.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715686707295691.jpg","filename":"Bildschirmfoto_2024-05-14_13-37-56.jpg"},"posted":1715686707},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799556,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"NEW THREAD >>2794153
NEW THREAD >>2794153
NEW THREAD >>2794153","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715696901258998.jpg","filename":"1553642168741.jpg"},"posted":1715696901},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794153
how much does the semi conductor tariff fuck this hobby, doesn't china make all the low level fab shit?","attachment":null,"posted":1715705414},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799608,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799606
You should've bought all your ICs before the 1986 ban went into effect. Now you have to buy pulls & counterfeits from chink scalpers.
Raspberry Pee 4 life.","attachment":null,"posted":1715705785},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799491
> Needs to be small
> I already have a square wave
> I’m afraid of winding inductors
> I solved the 10 mA problem by a makeshift filter
> therefore I’m not worried about efficiency
Those low-current “negative rail” generators for op amps use extra op-amps, gates, unused gpio outputs, clocks, spare gates, line noise, etc to get the ΔVs necessary to boost the voltage. Everybody thinks on that for a while!
In your case, I’d try simply T-ing off something like the 10mA source and using a single transistor to switch the makeshiftily smoothed waveform. It will be somewhat smoothed by the transistor if biased more as a really shitty signal amplifier.
If it’s low frequency, there is no way to get around a big cap though if you want high current.
That’s all the LED light bulbs do, put a cap in parallel to reduce flicker, but they typically boost the frequency a lot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715706110},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799624,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799606
>doesn't china make all the low level fab shit?
No, Taiwan","attachment":null,"posted":1715707745},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799625,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799425
>I’d probably use big relays so there is a satisfying kerchunk noise when switching them. My amp makes a “kertink” which sounds weak.
You have a point, Anon...","attachment":null,"posted":1715707827},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799722,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799496
>200mA
That's kinda a lot, big backlight?
I'd probably try using a switcher, should be fine.
>>2799501
Yeah, like that. Those should be input caps just after the power supply, though having caps both near the PSU and near the star ground is probably a good idea, within reason. Make one lot of caps the bulk capacitance (probably by the PSU's output) and make the other lot of caps low-ESR in order to minimise ripple at the star point.
>>2799515
There's no reason for that, if the signals are single-ended or pseudo differential then you'll be ground referencing the output signal anyhow. If the signals are properly differential then that would need to be supported by the rest of the circuit too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715723950},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799748,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798609
another link since that one says no longer available
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006963342782.html
at least to my country the shipping is cheap, you can search "four stage emi" for other listings","attachment":null,"posted":1715726974},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799792,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799790 NEW THREAD
>>2799790 NEW THREAD
>>2799790 NEW THREAD","attachment":null,"posted":1715733412},{"board":"diy","thread":2794153,"pid":2799804,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799792
>only on page 4
Retard, this thread will still last a week.","attachment":null,"posted":1715735454}]}
{"title":"/3dpg/ - 3D Printing General - #345","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793796,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"3D Printed Breakfast Edition
Last Thread: >>2787167
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
>Calibrate your printer.
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
If that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings
>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]
Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.
All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.
DIY: https://reprap.org/wiki/
SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg
>Where can I get things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://printables.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://cults3d.com/
https://www.stlfinder.com/
https://google.com/
T*legr*m
>What CAD software should I use?
Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD
Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid Edge
Autistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD
Mesh free-forming and modeling: Blender
Architects: Sketchup
>What slicer should I use?
For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.
For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicer
For autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl
Legacy Pastebin (Last updated 1239 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5 (embed) (embed)
#345","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714493492920810.jpg","filename":"20240430100006.jpg"},"posted":1714493492},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793810,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"first for chinese data providers","attachment":null,"posted":1714495223},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793851,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone played with CF-PETG? I'm considering using it for a wearable I'm working on but not sure how much better it is vs regular PETG when it comes to overhangs and support release.","attachment":null,"posted":1714501593},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793869,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
thanks for baking
I made phroggé","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714504356267855.jpg","filename":"0460fec5-dfa8-4bc6-9597-ccf8e07dead9.jpg"},"posted":1714504356},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793870,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have six million dollars.
What 3d printer do I buy?","attachment":null,"posted":1714504375},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793888,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793870
ender 3 with 5.99 million worth of mods","attachment":null,"posted":1714507554},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793870
fill your home with Bambulab X1C's if you hate having to do any setup and don't mind the spyware","attachment":null,"posted":1714507648},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793869
stl?","attachment":null,"posted":1714508020},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793893
May as well be asking where to find a Benchy stl.
(2012) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18479
https://www.printables.com/model/3116-treefrog
Don't know if the Prusa repost has any changes, might be cleaner, fuck if I know.","attachment":null,"posted":1714508305},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793946,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793888
okay i did this
my prints are warping what do","attachment":null,"posted":1714513146},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793946
sell it","attachment":null,"posted":1714513745},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793990,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there any torrent site for .stl files? Fuck paying for each of these prints","attachment":null,"posted":1714520232},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2793994,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"CREALITY K1C Enclosed High Speed Carbon 3D Printer 300°C hotend combined with a hardened steel nozzle tip, 4.3 Color LCD Screen; Automatic Leveling, PEI Flexible Build Plate; 220 x 220 x 250mm Print Size, Built-in AI camera, etc.
STILL on sale at MICRO CENTER (usa) for $489.99","attachment":null,"posted":1714520515},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794007,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've run into an issue with my SOVOL SV06, when I queue up a print, the printer head gets so hot that it melts the plastic to the point it is too soft to extrude. I initially thought it was a heat creep problem and got to the point I even replaced the whole extruder and heater block, but the brand new one has the exact same problem. It's to the point that when it heats up even the circled thumb point used for helping manually extrude is scalding to the touch.
Have any of you encountered anything like this before?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714521893357189.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240307_011052904~2.jpg"},"posted":1714521893},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794015,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"why is everyone printing those stupid dragons?","attachment":null,"posted":1714524081},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794034,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794015
Normies will pay $30+ for them","attachment":null,"posted":1714528103},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794036,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794034
why tho? they are stupid and useless and destined for the trash","attachment":null,"posted":1714529678},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794040,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794036
The thing is that 3d printing is still very much magic to 99% of the population. The gift shop at the Colosseum is selling meh-quality busts for €150. Just go to etsy and type in "articulated 3d print" and you'll see people with THOUSANDS of sales for the most lame stuff.","attachment":null,"posted":1714530796},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794043,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794007
hotends that have the heatblock close to the motor and frame that holds them together tend to get hot, i had the same problem on an IR3 hotend
Check that your extruder vref isnt cooking it.
What cooling does the hotend have? I dont see any heatsinks on the motor or any part of the frame that isnt just a solid block, no fans to cool the general mass of the hotend?
The other fans; they are running right? Fans get pretty damn hot if they are wired backwards or told to run at a speed to slow to actually turn the fins.
Probably also worth doing a pid calibrate and checking the heater and thermistor are properly secured and not damaged.
Same for any wires that might be shorting to the hotend somewhere.
And if its inside a heated enclosure... well theres that too.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714531678966510.jpg","filename":"S4ca8ddef944b46e390262a9075f758eaq.jpg"},"posted":1714531678},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794074,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794015
you can't easily injection that kind of articulated part. it's cool and fun","attachment":null,"posted":1714535972},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794085,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is charging 3 cents per gram for 3d printing to get started a good idea?","attachment":null,"posted":1714538140},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794089,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794085
No, not remotely, that's a fucking terrible starting point, are you trolling?","attachment":null,"posted":1714538650},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My K1 suddenly won't extrude anymore. I cleaned everything inside, but it would start printing fine for the first couple of minutes, then it would just stop. New extruder maybe?","attachment":null,"posted":1714544642},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794137,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793990
here:
UGF5IGZvciBvdGhlciBwZW9wbGUgd29yayB5b3UgcG9vciB0d2F0","attachment":null,"posted":1714555562},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794166,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793870
You can probably get an electron laser sintering setup for that kind of cash. Makes much stronger metal parts compared to laser sintering.
>>2794085
Depends on how easily you can print things, but probably not. Even if you had a print farm that automatically extracted prints off the build plate to start new prints, there's the process of slicing them, cleaning the bed every now and then, handling failed prints, taking the completed prints and packaging them, that's at least a few dollars worth of a flat fee.
I'd probably put the filament price no less than 6c/g, maybe over 10c/g, have a flat ~$2 per part, and additionally a flat ~$5 per build plate if you're not mixing different customer's prints together. So three 100g prints on one build plate would make you $41 gross. A single dinky 10g print would make you $8.
If you have to manually walk over to your printer with a USB stick, have to manually remove prints and/or can't queue multiple seperate prints, or have to do any design work yourself, those prices would go up even further. And FYI you shouldn't print pre-sliced g-code, don't trust customers not to give you shitty g-code that could damage your printer.
>>2794108
Check the extruder open/close lever, I hear it can get stuck not properly closed on the filament.","attachment":null,"posted":1714560547},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Am I just asking for trouble by setting my Z seam to randomize? I tried to print a bowl like object and it's come out like a pimply stringy mess, and I'm not sure if it'd had been cleaner if the Z seam being aligned would have made it move and retract less around the bed.","attachment":null,"posted":1714566197},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"how can i make my PETG prints more scratch resistant ?","attachment":null,"posted":1714566335},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794191
try orca scarf seam","attachment":null,"posted":1714566820},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794198
I'll be sanding and painting the final product, I'm just trying to find the best way to make it easier to finish since the current prints I've got look like total ass.","attachment":null,"posted":1714567041},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794318,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793870
>six million
Just get an X1C with AMS and spend the rest of your money on filament and delousing agents.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714584455316868.jpg","filename":"1711497366390.jpg"},"posted":1714584455},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794329,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793675
Honestly, no. Qidi machines always like the most flimsy plastic laying around thrown at a 3d printer. I have hard believing they're actually good.","attachment":null,"posted":1714585795},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794343,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794329
What Qidi machines have you owned?","attachment":null,"posted":1714588155},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Wew. Got my 2nd AMS for a deep discount.
Had uploaded a model that got 2500 downloads and another model that got 600. Took 6 months but amassed $320 worth of giftcards but I think the steam's running out on those models so went ahead and took the plunge especially after the points change.
I don't print very often so getting a second printer wouldn't do me much good.
But when I do print, I'd like to have 8 filaments on deck.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714593198095518.jpg","filename":"deepenededdiscount.jpg"},"posted":1714593198},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794388,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How should I go about selling my ingenious 3D printable designs for money?
Any websites you'd recommend?
I'm a NEET so I'd like to make some money","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714596496319105.jpg","filename":"323243293_883883902740307_3726466102469928652_n.jpg"},"posted":1714596496},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Absolutely LAYING it","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714603721043888.webm","filename":"20240501_154527-VideoToMp4.webm"},"posted":1714603721},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794460,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why is Cura putting retractions in my spiralized shoe shell?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714604171324908.png","filename":"cura-spiralize-retractions.png"},"posted":1714604171},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794495,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794451
damn that boy thick","attachment":null,"posted":1714609776},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794539,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794388
What have you done?","attachment":null,"posted":1714620226},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794542,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are there any printing services out there where I can send in my custom model and ask for a print? I'm specifically looking for one with resin material.
I'm also concerned if the manufacturer is reliable and will handle it safely because I know resin is a material not to fuck around with.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714620701575460.jpg","filename":"F7bX5fpagAATYIQ.jpg"},"posted":1714620701},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794554,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794192
Spray isopropyl alcohol on it and apply an ignition source Then extinguish after 1 seconds. Walla! PETG is now plastic tempered","attachment":null,"posted":1714624297},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794559,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794554
>Walla
It's 'Voila!' you amerisavage","attachment":null,"posted":1714625556},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794542
JLCPCB and PCBway do, so do a bunch of other more local print farms that will charge more.
>>2794559
i assume they say it that way ironically, it's better for my mental health","attachment":null,"posted":1714633028},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794637,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"mornin 'ghetti","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714651448762218.jpg","filename":"1714651411271.jpg"},"posted":1714651448},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794648,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">been meaning to do this for a long time
>wrangling of complex bools
>everything went nicely
>almost too easy
>printer GO!
>sleepy bo-bos time
fingers crossed its still sexy in the morning","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714652691216990.png","filename":"2024-05-02--22-21-09.png"},"posted":1714652691},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794675,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794594
>JLCPCB and PCBway
Thanks for the recommendation friend, these look pretty reliable.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714659256641866.webm","filename":"1711392367603669.webm"},"posted":1714659256},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794451
Correction needed","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714660544503879.jpg","filename":"20240501_182202.jpg"},"posted":1714660544},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">affordable Voron with injection molded parts is still a meh dream
Expected more, but maybe shooting for 350 instead of just 300 was a bit much on their end.
>>2794684
Looks snuck, hope it does fit as well.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714664397691927.png","filename":"1702818725341829.png"},"posted":1714664397},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what glue should i use to semi-securely stick pei coated steel to glass at temperatures of 80+ degrees celsius
let's say it's secured on corners but bows out in the middle
it's going to be a semi-permanent fixture but the option to remove and replace it in case of unforeseen damage has to be there
asking for a friend
managed to stick them together with hair spray for a couple prints but then it violently ejected a 3-hour print right near the end
>magnets
tried, they lose power when heated over 60 degrees
>buy a new
no
>go back to glass
eeeeeeeeeh","attachment":null,"posted":1714664413},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794706","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714666539112322.jpg","filename":"1710136675007693.jpg"},"posted":1714666539},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794725
the plate is already secured with butterfly clips on the periphery, the problem is that the middle of the plate bows up. it doesn't take much force to flatten it, but it's also a very awkward place to apply force to. right now i can put a small steel weight and a magnet in the middle and print in the corners, and as i said, hair gel held it down for a couple prints, but i need something that will hold it properly and more securely.","attachment":null,"posted":1714667901},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794756,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794706
>>2794733
I've never had to do what you're describing but my first tries would be something like RTV silicone or I'd look for a semi-permanent contact cement.","attachment":null,"posted":1714672941},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794766,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794706
>>2794733
Put on a 468mp sheet and call it a day?","attachment":null,"posted":1714674736},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794811,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794705
Its a really good printer if you already know what you are doing and have used klipper before. Like since its using an inductive probe you have to heat soak first. And theres no way it can print at 40k accel with quality on a 350 bed when bambu can only do 20k on a 250 bed. Not a fault of the printer, just a limitation of corexy designs.","attachment":null,"posted":1714683900},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794923,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
Do any filament fusers actually work?
I keep trying but I've never had any success.","attachment":null,"posted":1714700406},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794943,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"instagram keeps showing me interesting 3dp shizz, so i guess i'll post some here
i cant always save them, and I guess most would be too big to post here anyway, so links will have to do
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4ihfTANd0U","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714704022610486.png","filename":"2024-05-03--12-38-02.png"},"posted":1714704022},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794945,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794923
the ones ive seen probably do, but from my own experience with tests i did years ago; its always a bit fiddly and hardly seems worth it when PAUSE_PRINT is an option.","attachment":null,"posted":1714704147},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794947,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794945
also: i think this would work reasonably well too:
- make this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467
but give it a few winds to make it *push* filament.
-then put a Y junction in the filament path, with primary filament going to extruder as usual, and secondary *pushy* filament butting into it.
whewn the end of the primary gets pulled past the Y junction the secondary should start getting pushed to the extruder. Assuming it catches on the extruder gears you should have seamless re-feed.","attachment":null,"posted":1714704427},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794953,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794943
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4ydT0FPTnO","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714706017205348.png","filename":"2024-05-03--13-12-38.png"},"posted":1714706017},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794955,"name":"Anonymous","msg":""fluffy bag"
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5ECIGFNodz/","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714706649626715.png","filename":"2024-05-03--13-22-51.png"},"posted":1714706649},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794988,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I was designing a sheet metal + 3D printed parts ITX PC case for hours but then i had to make a change to the first part which introduced a few new faces. This part was the basis for all the other parts (it's part binder was used to design everything else) so the entire project got borked and i will have to spend a lot of time fixing it, pretty much having to do most work from scratch
Should I shift to openscad? I am a programmer so i don't think it'll be too much of a jump","attachment":null,"posted":1714717955},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794988
Forgot to add, i am using FreeCAD now","attachment":null,"posted":1714718024},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794993,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794988
OpenSCAD is kinda limiting. You can't do complex transformations of composite shapes like adding chamfers, and there's nothing in there that even knows what sheet metal is. You don't define a hole as being 8mm from an edge, you define it as being at a certain coordinate, if you mess around with variables you can get stuff act as if it's parametric, but it has to be manually set up that way. It's bare bones and not at all optimised for practical design. There are more powerful versions of software like OpenSCAD, but I don't think they'd be much better.
FreeCAD should have a proper parametric design with forward propagation of changes, but it being a buggy mess does tend to get in the way of that. Are you using vanilla FreeCAD, or are you using the RealThunder branch like you should? Ondsel might be more stable, idk.","attachment":null,"posted":1714718788},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2794997,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794993
>Are you using vanilla FreeCAD, or are you using the RealThunder branch like you should?
I'm using vanilla. I'm scared of using realthunder's branch because I don't want to get used to any design patterns which are not standard","attachment":null,"posted":1714719761},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795012,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794166
>Check the extruder open/close lever, I hear it can get stuck not properly closed on the filament.
i fixed it. Was the gears in the extruder that needed a cleaning and relube","attachment":null,"posted":1714724844},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795065,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794947
Have you fed filament by just turning the spool? I think the coil on the spool will expand first, and usually there's nothing to confine it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714742051},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795072,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794993
What i think i mean to ask is openscad any better if I'm a beginner and i need to often make fundamental changes to the base part.
With FreeCAD i spend multiple hours making a base part, then making many parts which depends on it. Then when i see i missed something in the base part i make that final change and everything which depends on the base model breaks. Then i have to redo the entire project but with the change that i did in the end.
I understand that openscad doesn't work that well when external files need to be imported and used for referencing geometry but if every single mechanical feature is known (and i can basically draw the entire mechanical drawing on paper)
Sorry for the long post, I've spent a week remaking the same computer case every single day because i forgot something minor every time in the base part and had to redo it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714743968},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795082,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I accidentally shattered the hot end fan on my ender 3 pro last night. I'm getting really sick of this printer.
1. Is a direct drive upgrade worth it? Which one?
2. Are there any compatible hot ends where the nozzle is also a bed leveling probe?","attachment":null,"posted":1714746021},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795086,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sold my ender, looking at a sidewinder 4 plus. Does anyone know if it goes on sale below 350 frequently?","attachment":null,"posted":1714746171},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795097,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795072
When you make something in your base, are you using parameters? Like if you're making a tube that has a cylinder go in it, are you using a parameter like `innerDiameter` in all places?","attachment":null,"posted":1714747875},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795104,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795097
Unfortunately I'm not, but i probably could
Would that make freecad viable? I'm not sure how it would counter problems related to some part very deep in the dependency tree needs a new face or feature","attachment":null,"posted":1714749199},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795104
It certainly makes changing things a little easier, but I guess it depends what you mean by things breaking. The kind of breaking I'm thinking of is parts suddenly not fitting or just yeeting themselves off to fucking wherever.","attachment":null,"posted":1714750793},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795126,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hi, I am aiming at Ender 3 V3 KE, and it is priced 400e, within country. Of course there are other printers which have various prices but I am unsure which one to get, as this one seems ok with few upgrades like linear rails. I am in process of making tabletop cnc milling machine, and now I am stuck on part where I need plastic adapters and would be good to have 3d printer at home. Which one would you all recommend, that is plug and play, and little bit of tweaking is also ok","attachment":null,"posted":1714755292},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My print started out fine to my standards but near the end it looks like the layers began to shift. Did my belts just become loose at the end or what?
Brand new roll of Overture PLA white, 210 C nozzle, 60 C bed, 99% infill, tree supports, took about 26 hours to print. White filament has always given me shit.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714760117620247.jpg","filename":"20240503_124212.jpg"},"posted":1714760117},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795167,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795153
Since it's been a long print it might be something overheating, perhaps the drivers or the heatbreak","attachment":null,"posted":1714763462},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795173,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">forget to clear the bed
>step away after hitting start
>come back
>???
>crashed but printing perfectly in new spot
Amazing","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714765114743547.jpg","filename":"20240503_123633.jpg"},"posted":1714765114},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795184,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"why are the prusa mk3 and mk4 priced so similarly? is there that little difference?","attachment":null,"posted":1714766043},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795184
There was something like a 90% part difference between the mk3 and 4. That's why the full upgrade kit costs so much too. Just buy a P1S or X1 instead.
Only get the mk4 if you are deadset on getting a Prusa. You'll need to tune the input shaping manually. Prusa is sucking his own dick so hard he genuinely believes every single mk4 resonates at the same frequencies. There is a post on their forums about using a klipper test print and modifying the machine start gcode to override Prusa's "perfect" values.
Prints on my mk4 looked like dog shit until I did this and the frequencies were pretty far off from those "perfect" values. Checked the belts, screw tensions, alignments, nothing helped except manual IS tuning.","attachment":null,"posted":1714770467},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795238,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795153
this addresses the lines:
>>2794953
and on the overhang at the top: you seem to have shit bridging. Partfan exposure from different angles is always better. Maybe adjust your bridge speed. Organic supports are great for those reacharound-handy support places (so you dont need to put support on top of print).
Again, it looks like the lines interfere with the overhang threshold too.
Not sure how you would solve that, but printing in different parts and/or different orientations might be required.
Similarly: you could always neatly saw through the model at the most fubar lines... print the rest of the model from there on up.. and try grafting them together.
You might want to print reduced-size versions of large prints to find out where they are going to fail, before you print the megalodon-sized version.","attachment":null,"posted":1714779335},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795240,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795238
PS: It would be good if we could see the entire model. But right now oit looks like a no-brainer that you should be rotating it 90deg to the right and printing it with the bolt hoes(right) at the bottom and the pointy bit (left) at the top.","attachment":null,"posted":1714779558},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795242,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795153
minimum layer print time before slowdown, might be worth playing with too
maybe also adjust how aggressive your fans are on shorter duration layers... or try one with no fan
>White filament has always given me shit.
thanks for reminding me of this, i will probably still do it, but i have been considering buying 10KG of white petg. Still not sure.","attachment":null,"posted":1714779953},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795283,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Whats a good way to level up in the 3d printing space? I saw earlier in the thread people were talking about those articulated dragons that anyone can print. Have even seen them at flea market type events. I have a feeling most people with 3d printers are pretty close to this level of skill. Mainly just printing goyslop stl files. Im sort of plateauing. Most of my design work is in tinkercad and I have designed some pretty complicated stuff on it so far, but I know its a bottleneck. Have made about $1200 selling quest 3 headstrap adapters I had to rush to market but would like to go beyond that.
The design process of some of my personal projects has been pretty fun and I like to see all of it come to life even if some of it ends up being a dead end. I have a bunch of tools and im trying to become more proficient with them, and 3d printing has been pretty useful for rapid prototyping, making jigs, and producing products. Mainly just trying to figure out where I start to go from here? I dont want to be just limited to 3d printing and im a welder by trade, but want to have a wider and better skillset. Just want to learn some valuable skills and put them to use the best way possible.","attachment":null,"posted":1714788984},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795286,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794997
Use realthunder, like any sane person
It's not like step files become incompatible","attachment":null,"posted":1714789103},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795287,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Dumb question, but what color filaments are good for beginners? I mean more from a practical perspective, it doesn't take a genius to pick your favorite color.
For example, are certain colors easier to paint, have different performance qualities, easier to spot flaws, etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1714789170},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795288,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795283
>printing goyslop
Now I'm wondering if there are filaments made from s-o-y beans. I mean, if you can make printer ink, candles, and even furniture out of it, I don't see why you can't make filament with it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714789295},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795292,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795287
black and white. If you need another color then buy as needed. You dont want to end up with a bunch of random spools. Would be more concerned with mechanical qualities of the filament as well. TPU and PLA are worlds apart.","attachment":null,"posted":1714789433},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795293,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795287
Filament behavior will vary with color, but only very little. The most dramatic ones are usually white or black filaments, as they require large quantities of pigment, far more than other colors do.","attachment":null,"posted":1714789467},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795294,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795288
PLA is basically printed goyslop. Im sure there is legit based bean filament though","attachment":null,"posted":1714789495},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Was dispensing liquid 1 syringe at a time and that takes time and effort. Made a real quick model in under an hour then about an hour of printing. Hopefully this little tool can save me dozens or hundreds of hours. Was a good exercise in design. Started out fancy but just dumbed it down in the end. Good lesson in design for me going forward is that I just need to make something cheap and dumb that works unless its something for consumers. Just make it as cheap and easy and efficient as possible.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714795930972619.jpg","filename":"quickmodel.jpg"},"posted":1714795930},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795331,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795283
Get into better plastics, especially ABS. ABS is strong and temperature resistant enough for automotive use, and it’s cheap as. Polycarbonate is the other one I’d look at. Nylon less so, but its flexibility combined with its strength may be handy. TPU and similar stretchy filaments would also be very useful to be able to print, especially with a dual filament printing setup. Knowing how to choose the right plastic for the job is half the battle.
If you’re designing custom parts, then try to design parametric models that can be easily customised to suit a variety of customer requirements. For enclosures and brackets and such. Could do this with proper CAD tools or something like OpenSCAD.
Also get yourself a good selection of heat-set inserts and other things to add into your prints.
That Slant 3D printing channel has some good tips for professional design.","attachment":null,"posted":1714796070},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795331
I watch a lot of slant 3d and a few other printing channels. Havent really messed with any of the other plastics besides TPU and a bit of ABS. I am aware of some of their properties though. Interested in Nylon, Glass filled Nylon, and probably filament with glass beads or other exotic materials.
The design is where I feel im limited most. I have been able to design some organic shapes on tinkercad, but nothing advanced like being able to sculpt something like a computer mouse. I know I have to find a modeling solution besides tinkercad. Have been pushing it to near its limits. Hate feeling like im going to be starting from zero. Also im wondering if I can fill in some gaps with 3d scanning and AI in the not so distant future.
The heat set inserts is a pretty good idea. I have designed with dovetails in the past, but heat set inserts can really make a prototype look professional.
I don't want to be too entirely tied down to 3d printing either though. I have a small diode laser I have cut some parts on, and plasma cutting is just a step up from that and routing is adjacent to that. There can be money in all those things and they all basically use a very similar skillset. The current product im personally developing has me working with open face silicone molds for consumer electronics. Mainly just trying to get away from hobby level stuff and move more into actually using these skills to earn a living. The cash on the adapters was a small taste. Would like to see where I could get if I really started to widen the skill and capital gap.","attachment":null,"posted":1714798346},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795342,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795287
grey
It photographs well therefore it timelapses well
It prints well (unlike strongy pigmented filaments), like black and white. White also blemishes far too easily, even during the print process. Black makes it almost impossible to see any artifacts you want to remove, and too easy to see ones you cant remove. Both are still good colors in their own way though.
It isnt some garish color that you can only feel right printing some things with
Personally if i was current me advising newbie me i'd say buy 10kg of flat grey, and 10kg of miscellaneous colors. Best value for money, not a huge investment.
Or 5kg grey and 5kg colours if you are a total rookie who thinks $300 is a lot for 20kg of filament.
You are probably going to throw away most of that anyway, so grey is a good baseline, with learning to be had by comparison against the other various colours and opacities/surface types.
Dont fall for the $40/kg of filament because its BeTteR ruse. Unless its carbon fiber or some hybrid that you ACTUALLY need; $15/kg is the right price for PLA and PETG.","attachment":null,"posted":1714798924},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795359,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794811
>Its a really good printer if you already know what you are doing and have used klipper before.
Just like every other printer /with a new board? Since you already listed more negatives on your own you can see why i rather saw it as "meh", albeit not necessarily all bad.
>>2795331
I'd at least mention ASA in that regard. At least when it comes to bigger prints.
>>2795342
>prusament PETG is at 30€/kg
>favorite local PETG is at 20.5€/kg
>polymaker PETG is at 20.40€/kg
Inflation fucked with all those numbers.","attachment":null,"posted":1714806852},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795359
So then stop buying the shit from asshole resellers.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006064018961.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006007948082.html
Theres plenty of good quality cheap filament if you just start buying direct from the source rather than some opportunist who imports the same shit and warehouses it.
Shit, even kingroon is a 1st level reseller, you could always go direct to the factory via alibaba. I've done that before with good results. But minimum order tends to be ~30KG and they seem to always want to charge the highest DHL/FE rate to ship it. Still, some research and waiting a week or three would get you much cheaper filament.
Buying euro "made" filament is your problem. They probably just import and relabel it anyway.
....currently printing chinese PETG from 2018.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714808702722105.png","filename":"2024-05-04--17-44-21.png"},"posted":1714808702},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795126
Do you need your parts to be particularly strong? If so I'd recommend a printer that can do ABS out of the box. Also 400 euros seems kinda steep for a KE, that's more Ender V3 price (not the KE).
>>2795340
>organic shapes
Learning blender might not be a terrible idea. It isn't parametric (for the most part), but it's good for more organic shapes, and IIRC it has a plugin that makes it passable for mechanical CAD work. Though most people I've seen use it also learn a proper parametric CAD program, and import the sculpted shape into that once it's refined. If you're not a Freetard like me, go for the free version of Fusion360 or Onshape, that or pirate Solidworks.
>3d scanning and AI
It's getting there, but the landscape is awash with tech demos and expensive scanning hardware, it's not really consumer ready yet. Though maybe there's a youtuber keeping his finger on the pulse of the 3D scanning field that's done the dirty work for you and can tell you the latest cost effective setup. I still think we're a while off being able to scan something in and have it be good enough without any hand finishing though.
Casting is absolutely the way to go, there's lots of custom rubber or composite things that you can't buy, and being the guy who can 3D print a mould and cast one will set you apart. Both things like silicone and urethane, but also forged carbon. Though stocking all the different resins is expensive if you want any sort of variety (e.g. a range of shore hardnesses).
A router isn't as useful unless you can do aluminium, but custom wooden parts might be a good market if you know where to look.
A diode laser can do business cards and engraved art, but I don't think its potential is that great by itself. I use one for PCB making.
>>2795359
>I'd at least mention ASA in that regard
It's ABS but twice the price. If you need something outdoors maybe, but I'd just use ABS and paint it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714813662},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795372
Thank you for the reply, so would Bambu Lab X1 Carbon priced at 1900euros be worth it? And yes, I would like to print some parts for car aswell for tabletop cnc machine and other household items","attachment":null,"posted":1714814494},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795374
X1C is maybe overkill, you can get a P1S and add a hardened nozzle. Without the botnet, a K1C or SV08+enclosure is probably good enough if you don't mind tinkering a bit. Watch some reviews to see what's worth getting and what isn't, spending 2k on a printer deserves a few hours of research at the least. I recommend Aurora Tech's reviews.","attachment":null,"posted":1714817385},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795380
Thank you once again, I will look into them, but what are some things to look out for and recommended upgrades? What about enclosures, cameras, sensors, upgradable steppers, linear rails etc...","attachment":null,"posted":1714819601},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795393,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795330
Nice results anon","attachment":null,"posted":1714822432},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795433,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Going to put some legs on this 2000mm oak counter top I got. /3dpg/ related because my printer will live on the table.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714832990878076.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240504_162500.jpg"},"posted":1714832990},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795434,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
i have limited time/access to my school 3D printed (PETG) is it really that bad to print multiple parts in the same batch ?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714833212463595.jpg","filename":"1714583605197673.jpg"},"posted":1714833212},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795434
Depends.
Is the printer enclosed? You'll get parts that are as strong as if you printed just the one.
If the printer isn't enclosed, you might lose some layer adhesion.
You best practice really is to make sure that the part actually works/fits before you print dozens of it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714835991},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795451,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795449
there will be a single model of each part, i'm supposed to assemble them together like Legos","attachment":null,"posted":1714836270},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795452,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795451
you'll be ok.","attachment":null,"posted":1714836326},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795456,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795434
Watch out for stinging. Even with models that dont have issues with that, multiple parts in the same batch will create stringing if the printer/filament is susceptible to that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714837046},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795458,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
Please help me. Should i buy a Artilley Sidewinder, Anycubic Neo or the sovol S06, i'm complete noob and i just want to print small trinkets and other stuff and i don't wanna deal with another eternally unfixable machine just the minimal mingling with software and other technical issues.","attachment":null,"posted":1714837273},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795461,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795458
>sovol S06
your are welcome","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714838510369608.png","filename":"your welcome.png"},"posted":1714838510},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795462,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795461
Thanks. I gonna check that out.","attachment":null,"posted":1714838598},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795468,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"*heavy sweating*","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714839437074673.jpg","filename":"beh.jpg"},"posted":1714839437},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795468
whats the UV for ?","attachment":null,"posted":1714841539},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795489
dabbing on pla-lets with superior uv-impervious petg
jk just a default led colour
the right tree support failed and then recovered with an ant bridge of loose extrusions and stringing right before it reached the main body of the part, it worked out in the end
all hail petg and its stringing (and uv resistance)","attachment":null,"posted":1714841795},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795523,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I cant print anything on my printer without a brim using PLA.
The bed is levelled and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Z offset is just perfect: if I increase it even by 0.01 I will get artifacts on the second layer due to squishing the first layer too much.
I am printing on a glass bed.
Printing at nozzle 230 for first layer, 215 after, bed 70 first layer, 60 after.
Any ideas?
I don't want to believe that these printers were made to be used out of the box with a gluestick or hairspray. I do believe that the print should stick.
What I have tried before was using hairspray but I can't stand the smell, though the prints stick.
I tried lowering the Z offset even more, doesnt help, just makes worse.
I tried lowering the bed temp to 55, 60, 65, didn't change anything adhesion wise.
Anything else I could try to make it stick without using anything extra like a gluestick/hairspray etc?","attachment":null,"posted":1714846275},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795528,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795523
1. use a brim you cunt
OR
1. suck it up and use hairspray faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1714847074},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795523
>bed 70 first layer, 60 after.
why tho, you're literally causing it to cool and disconnect.","attachment":null,"posted":1714847135},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795530,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795523
thicker first layer","attachment":null,"posted":1714847247},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795533,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795528
I said Im already using a brim to print successfully but would rather not use it to avoid cleanup
>>2795529
I dont know to be honest, I read from somewhere and gave it a try. It's not how I have always printed, before testing it like that I did just plain 65c bed which didnt really work either. This is just what it is at the moment for testing to see what works and what not
>>2795530
It is, pic related","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714847633342507.png","filename":"Untitled.png"},"posted":1714847633},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795550,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795533
bigger extruder multiplier on first layer","attachment":null,"posted":1714851128},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'd like to make this area stronger.
I learned about modifiers yesterday.
I'd like to make walls 3 layers thick in the designated area but prusa adds a wall at the intersection of my stl model and box modifier.
How do I thick only existing walls and not create another?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714856675490396.jpg","filename":"prusa724.jpg"},"posted":1714856675},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795592,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795587
You don't, this is a limitation of current slicers that people are actively working to improve.","attachment":null,"posted":1714857351},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795608,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795523
>dont want to believe
I mean you can keep denying chemical principles all you want, or you could just get some PEI for the print surface.","attachment":null,"posted":1714860675},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795592
Best of luck to them then!
Curious that when you configure the modifier to change fill, it works like intended, it adds more infill out of thin air without any wall surrounding it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714860773},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795533
after a few failed prints years ago i set my pla bed to 60, and have neveer changed it since.
i suspect glass sucks for pla.
get a magnetic springsteel pei sheet.
or use a layer of pet tape.
its conceivable that you are one of those people who has no idea what clean means, so clean your bed with some ammonia based spray cleaner... windex seems appropriate for glass, but any household surface cleaner should do. Or wash it in dishsoap, if thats how you lean.
Then iso it to make sure theres no fragrances or whatever left over.
...but glass probably just sucks for pla
lowering bed after the first layer isnt too bad for contraction, but its something I stopped doing.
PLA: i use 60C, or 70 if its a large surface area piece.
PETG i use 70C, or 80-90 if its a large surface area piece.
how do you know your 1st layer height is 'spot on'? print any old thing with a 4 line wide skirt, set general layer height to something thick, like 0.3mm, and cancel the print once the skirt completes.
Let it cool a bit and *measure it*. Hopefully you have calipers that arent the usual garbage.","attachment":null,"posted":1714862583},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795622,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795587
put the modifier only where a wall already is, but a smidge deeper into the model","attachment":null,"posted":1714862699},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795624,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795619
Glass does suck for PLA, it sucked 15 years ago and it still sucks now. You can greatly improve the performance of a sheet of glass by lightly sanding it to a frosted texture. I don't know why anyone would waste their time doing that when a magnetic spring-steel PEI powder coated build plate is so cheap and just SO FUCKING GOOD.","attachment":null,"posted":1714862939},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795626,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795587
Alternately; put an array of tiny cylinders through the relevant piece, if they are small enough they wont even be printed as holes, just solid cylinders within the interior of the print.","attachment":null,"posted":1714863037},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795628,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795626
>tiny cylinders
and by this i mean they DO need to be hollow, or the slicer will just register them as irrelevant and ignore them. Vary their wall thickness to make more robust support, just do a test first to see how small you need to make the interior diameter. something less than 1/2 a line width should be about right.","attachment":null,"posted":1714863218},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795637,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795362
>I don't have it, therefore no else has as well
Calm your projection. You can literally drive down to Löhne and get a quick tour of Material4Print yourself if you ask nicely. Made in Germany is their stick, so they're more than happy to show it off.
>Shit, even kingroon is a 1st level reseller
*That* is surprise to you?
>>2795372
And a quarter of warping. You know
>At least when it comes to bigger prints.","attachment":null,"posted":1714865769},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795641,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795637
>Löhne and get a quick tour of Material4Print
so then pay euro overheads, euro energy costs, euro lazygirl tour guides, on top of the menial spool sealer person wage for something that is largely automated and can be done for less in china.
>*That* is surprise to you?
no, thats why i said it....
Dealing with manufacturer is usually cheaper, but larger minimum investment.
Dealing with 1st/2nd tier resellers is a good convenience/consumer protection/price point. With the exception being resellers in a different country to the manufacturer: they add too many overheads.
My point is that you feel you are getting something *worth* more than twice the price by buying german, but in general you almost certainly aren't.
Paying euro prices for chinese raw material with all the energy and labour costs added in germany ... or just paying for 'i want it NOW' convenience is your choice.
...although i do understand that euro customs can be a problem sometimes. Fortunately - for freight/customs - I live relatively close to Asia. So its a no-brainer when deciding on purchases that we dont mass produce locally.","attachment":null,"posted":1714867458},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795644,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what enclosure will my neptune 4 plus fit in?","attachment":null,"posted":1714868432},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So I'm having issues with my Ender 3 V3. Any time I print any type of filament that isn't just normal PLA, currently trying to print marble filament, the extruder just keeps skipping. I've confirmed that increasing temp does nothing, slowing flow rate does nothing, slowing the print speed from 220mm/s to 80mm/s does nothing. So I'm wondering if I'm just missing something. And before anyone says no you can not currently get larger nozzles for this thing because they are proprietary nozzles.","attachment":null,"posted":1714871693},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795669,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795637
>And a quarter of warping
I did not know that. Is warping still an issue with a properly preheated enclosure?
>>2795652
Is the nozzle actually getting hot enough? If you push the filament through by hand or touch it to the side, does it melt? What temperature does the screen show? How easy is it to force PLA to skip in the extruder if you try to hold it back from feeding? It’s either a firmware problem, a thermistor problem, or an extruder problem.","attachment":null,"posted":1714874183},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795669
It should be getting hot. To eliminate some things I took the marble filament out of the extruder as it was printing and skipping. Put normal generic pla in and it started printing completely fine. With the way the V3 is designed you can't push filament through manually. You have to select the option for the machine to extrude or retract filament so that option is not possible. I'm running it at 220F nozzle temp for both filaments. I sent a request into Creality to see what they give me for info too. Maybe it's a firmware update, I bought it the day it came out and haven't updated it but again the fucker should just work out of the box for 300 some fucking dollars","attachment":null,"posted":1714874729},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is the Ender-3 good for terrain?
Also can I just use it after assembly right out the box, or do I need to buy other things?","attachment":null,"posted":1714875859},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795696,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795673
>220F nozzle temp
lol
lmao","attachment":null,"posted":1714878748},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795703,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795696
It says to run that for PLA","attachment":null,"posted":1714881327},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795711,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795703
celsius","attachment":null,"posted":1714883549},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795718,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795331
Went ahead and bought a small selection of heat set inserts. Going to upgrade some of my prototypes a bit. Also might print a bung for a drain cleanout hole in my front yard. Probably going to start putting together a portfolio of builds and capabilities.","attachment":null,"posted":1714884909},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795726,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's the best adhesive for bonding TPU to PLA?","attachment":null,"posted":1714888232},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">almost out of filament on the spool
>decide to use the rest on printing simple pen holders in vase mode
>first one prints without flaws
>scale the second one up to 150%
>everything's fine for a while
>suddenly begins to stop at the same place every 2-4 laps around, for a second, creating a girthy seam
what the fuck","attachment":null,"posted":1714904613},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795763,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795762
like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714905163792210.png","filename":"1710887358005452.png"},"posted":1714905163},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795770,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795763
yeah kinda like that but in a straight line
added M413 S0 to start gcode, hopefully that fixes it","attachment":null,"posted":1714908020},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795828,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795726
E6000
This stuff I used for the first time to bond TPU to ABS, and holds great. If you live in Murica, I have seen it at crafts store like Michaels, and Hobby Lobby, I am sure you an find it at walmart or target as well.
I would, if I were you, have different types of adhesives for different materials, completely optional.
>acetone
Use this to mix with ABS pieces to make ABS glue (guessing game on the ratio mixture) or just acetone brushed on by itself (I normally do this im just joining piece together to form as one original piece
>Super Glue
Again assuming youre in Murica, harbor freight brand super glue is rebranded gorilla super glue 4-5 dollars for 20 grams, while its 7-8 for 25 grams of gorilla glue brand.
>Weld-on #3, methylene chloride, or diy
This one I havent personally tried it is however something I have been looking into recently, this welds multiple plastics together, like petg to pla or petg to petg (theres a weldon specifically for petg iirc, but its probably using same chemicals) or pla to pla (again weldon does have a pla version, but like I mentioned, could be using same chemicals)
Reason why I mentioned diy your own as a possibility is on the assumption you previously bought acetone, then you can get plexiglass and have it dissolve in some acetone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUqscl4EGxQ
>epoxy
I have used this stuff a few times when I wanted to bond hook nad loop to pla when I made my one sanding grip handles.","attachment":null,"posted":1714920838},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795839,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795828
>acetone and plexiglass are more expensive than just buying the glue","attachment":null,"posted":1714921811},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795849,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795828
Yeah it's at my walmart, I like the little tubes","attachment":null,"posted":1714923252},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795856,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795839
Yeah you can do whatever is cheaper, my work has acetone in storage closets and I was able to take some home, I guess I should've added "whatever is cheaper for you"","attachment":null,"posted":1714923902},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795861,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795711
Yes, sorry I mistyped that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714924261},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795954,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"In the market for a 3D printer for around $1k for more or less professional level prototyping - I'm going to be using my prototypes for robotics and contract work. Unfortunately, getting powder based 3d printing is out of the question (had the best quality prints with that tech) and I don't want to deal with SLA since that crap is temperamental and I will be using my prototypes under compressive loads. This basically forces me to use FDM.
Research said that Bambu's X1C is the current best one on the market but I have had bad experiences with Chinese 3D printers (Flashforge is absolute garbage) and I really don't want to deal with having to lock down my network security.
Prussa was second best but it's just highway robbery at those prices and its open air.
So, what do you guys use? What has worked well.","attachment":null,"posted":1714938659},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795828
I asked in stupid questions thread but going to ask here as well since you mentioned it and technically it's about polymers. Any idea if e6000 will behave similarly to super glue used in this article?
https://www.wikihow.com/Fill-Plastic-Holes","attachment":null,"posted":1714939327},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795954
I have an X1C. So far I haven't had any issues with mine, though as with all printers some people do. It has largely been a no brainer to use it and I have been able to skip all the tinkering and bullshit that other people once claimed to be an expected experience of 3D printing and I have been able to focus on solely printing and designing. The X1C has been released for a couple years now so I don't know if they intend to release a slightly larger model, if you lean towards them that could be something to wait for.","attachment":null,"posted":1714939629},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2795974,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Been away from 3D printing since the Anet A8 era, before all the hype died down.
Is 3D printing appreciably better or is it just consoom consoom consoom?
Is everyone still using PLA and PETG?","attachment":null,"posted":1714941110},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796005,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795962
No, the stuff can turn into kind of a mess and like ABS glue whatever is evaporatings causes it to string like cob web thin type stringing and just keeps stretching.
I would look at to see if it mentions what kind pf plastic thay you are working with and s ee what ways would be best to weld or glue together cause baking soda and super glue seems like an odd combination.","attachment":null,"posted":1714945588},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796009,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795962
oh forgot to mention the stuff fucking stinks and lingers, I mean you can try it, but I have read rumors about ingredients in the glue that could cause cancer and parkinsons, even if its not true it stinks anyways.","attachment":null,"posted":1714945920},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796050,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795974
a bunch of off the shelf printers can hit 500mm/s, print tpu and ASA out of the box, but it's still not very useful outside of very niche applications","attachment":null,"posted":1714951765},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796052,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795965
How well does it compare to the PS1? Is the X1C actually worth double the cost?","attachment":null,"posted":1714951957},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796135,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795669
With enough heat soaking you probably get by, but at some point i just gave up and put in a spool of ASA for everything reaching >400cm2 footprint. It's just not worth my time anymore dealing with misprints.
>>2795954
>prototypes for contract work
So any material requirements?","attachment":null,"posted":1714965745},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796140,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796135
ABS is more than enough for the vast majority of prototyping work I have done and will ever need besides the possibility of PET/G or HDPE for sliding contact points. Anything that needs a works-like and feels-like job or overmolding prototyping will have to be contracted out for machining or other manufacturing methodologies.","attachment":null,"posted":1714966180},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796165,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"From pain in the ass to fixed product in under an hour. Quickly designed and printed an adapter to keep my dish sponges sitting up in a basket air drying. Next is a bung for the bunghole on the drain cleanout on my house that was burried under cement. Hope to have that one measured and modeled in 10 minutes and printed in tpu in a couple hours.
Starting to really like using this tool. Those ender 3s were hell. The flashforges or whatever they were I dont even want to think about.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714974247821736.jpg","filename":"spongeadapter.jpg"},"posted":1714974247},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"The table is finished and i like it very much.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714978361087921.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240506_084908.jpg"},"posted":1714978361},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714979560901097.jpg","filename":"1683886463824235.jpg"},"posted":1714979560},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796203,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey guys. I know, at a surface level, bad filament clogs printers, but I go to a makerspace, so everyone is massively autistic. What can I say to them that will fucking stop them from using absolutely retarded dollar store filament? What's really causing the clogs?","attachment":null,"posted":1714983763},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796203
any kind of airborne particles
dust and grit from anywhere else... sanding? grinding? windy outside? smoke?
grubby cunts who dont keep filament spools sealed and cart them around in backpacks
filaments generally have a fairly strong static electric attraction, most noticeably when separating print from the bed, but any small particles can be static-sticky too, so if there is particulate shit nearby it will stick to nearby things... like your spool of filament
Does the extruder have any particles of filaments in its gears/nearby surroundings?
If you switch filaments you need to use the appropriate temperatures to purge the prior stuff... ie: switching from (hotter) petg to (cooler) pla may cause blockage problems","attachment":null,"posted":1714984823},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796218,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there a way to buy tiny samples of known good filament?
Sometimes I want to see if a problem is caused by the filament without opening a new roll.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714990936228503.jpg","filename":"01075689.jpg"},"posted":1714990936},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796227,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796218
yeah, they are simply called filament sample packs, like this one: https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/filament-samples-3mm/primaselect-sample-pack-2-85mm-pla-abs-abs-hips-petg_21898_2932","attachment":null,"posted":1714995379},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796249,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796189
Looks sturdy. one of those kits from home depot?","attachment":null,"posted":1715003395},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Creality K1C stock settings, printing currently on gray Kingroon PLA but it's happening on white creality PLA as well. I am a dumbass and broke the wires on the original hotend so replaced it with the FlowTech Micro Swiss hotend. Also have a PEI plate. Using Orcaslicer default PLA settings for the KI except changed the temp to 230C instead of 220 as I'm mostly using regular PLA. This was working fine for similar and more advanced prints on the stock hotend, but now this kind of thin, skipped layers seems to happen near corners or in between straight edges from each other, never on the corners or in the center. I let it auto level and calibrate each print, but I've only had this issue since changing to the new hotend. Any ideas or similar experiences?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715005138851217.jpg","filename":"20240506_091125.jpg"},"posted":1715005138},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796262,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796203
you're mad because other people are using cheap filament? I don't understand. also printing forward with fucking garbage pasta tier brittle shit filament is fine it's retracting that fucks shit up and breaks the filament. bad filament snaps when you bend it. using the tool hardened end of the roll (e.g. it's been through the extruder) will make it brittle, especially if it's been sitting in the bowden tube. waste a foot of filament each time you start with the printer. wet filament will pop and leave craters in the print.
two other clogs: one from burnt debris in the nozzle, happens when overheating or using filaments with additives. calls for a cold pull. get nylon, do it right. two is a gap between the heat break and ptfe or heat block allowing molten plastic to clog, sometimes occurs only on long prints with heat creep depending on the gap location. symptoms are not being able to pull the filament when cold/cool or not advancing when hot. disassembly will allow you to extract the filament forwards and symptom will be a wider section of filament.
>>2796207
spools that sit a long time and get dusty too, this mainly contributes to burnt foreign matter in the needs a cold pull scenario. pushing hot plastic through a tube with a gear is pretty robust in terms of susceptibility to dust and dirt in my experience. Fibers and shit from a backpack is a new one on me.","attachment":null,"posted":1715006232},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796255
Can you tell me how is K1C as I plan on getting one, with stock hotend. According to YT videos, its good machine, but what have you made with yours and what sort of problems did you encounter?","attachment":null,"posted":1715009732},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796298
I'm mostly made figurines and they came out well besides the first layer being a bit off sometimes. The pei plate fixed that. It has clogged up on me a few times and the hotend heating block being able to spin around when you unscrew the nozzle (which is what caused the wires to break) definitely sucks.","attachment":null,"posted":1715010086},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796307,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796306
So, would you recommend K1C printer or nah? I would print pieces for household and maybe carbon fiber enchanced parts for car and abs most of the time, or should I get some other printer?","attachment":null,"posted":1715010183},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796313,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796307
When it was working fine with the stock hotend it was great, I'm only having problems after installing the "better" hotend. I'd recommend it but be prepared to have to troubleshoot and fix things like any Creality product.","attachment":null,"posted":1715011148},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796314,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796313
Never owned a 3D printer but I am looking forward to it","attachment":null,"posted":1715011255},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796316,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796249
I got a 25mm thick countertop in solid oak from a construction store. The legs are witre manutan workbench legs and rated for 500kg each.. It would have been nicer if the coubtertop was 40mm thick instead.","attachment":null,"posted":1715011518},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796407,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Ex-gf left her old Polaroid Playsmart at my place when she moved out
>Because firmware was fucked so wouldn't work and no way to reflash
>Took it apart and threw a new pico in there for its brain
>Hooked it up to my Pi 4B that runs my CR10 Frankenstein with Brainlett for a new Klipper instance
>All wiring and pins correctly defined where it homes correctly and senses temp
>Added cooling for board and new standoff mounts for board formfactor
>Got multiple USB cams running on Fluidd
>PID calibrating now.
Not gonna lie, I feel a little badass, even getting a shit JoAnne Fabrics special running again. Can't believe they asked $600 for this a couple years ago.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715025033158445.png","filename":"Playsmart online.png"},"posted":1715025033},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796431,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796189
>>2796194
why did you feel the need to come back 20 minutes later and post the exact same thing","attachment":null,"posted":1715027904},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796467,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796431
Try again.","attachment":null,"posted":1715031545},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796528,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794542
I like Craftcloud, they'll let you quote an entire print without committing to an account and offer a ton of different materials from a zillion different vendors.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715038514409964.png","filename":"cc_gp.png"},"posted":1715038514},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796606,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794451
hmn that's some juicy layer porn","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715061002479273.jpg","filename":"bracket.jpg"},"posted":1715061002},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796617,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795359
>just like every other printer /with a new board?
The difference here is the flying gantry and bed size. A 350mm voron is 1500. This is 550. There are many advantages to having a capable flying gantry such as adding a tool changer or using a belt kit for part ejection etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715065092},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"PETG doesn't react to isopropyl, right?
Does it react to bleach? google keeps throwing out very vague "yeah maybe, probably idk" answers","attachment":null,"posted":1715066961},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796629,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796619
No to IPA, bleach might attack some pigments but I'd assume not. Just do a test sample.","attachment":null,"posted":1715069489},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796635,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"redpill me on alfapro","attachment":null,"posted":1715077509},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796649,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796407
It's always nice when a project works the way it should","attachment":null,"posted":1715082949},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796677,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What si this problem and how can i fix it?
It's creality white filament, on Ender v3 se","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715090054346920.jpg","filename":"1010.jpg"},"posted":1715090054},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796734,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796255
If anyone is having similar issues, I managed to mostly fix it by increasing the flow rate to 110% under expert settings. Still need to calibrate it a bit better but it's much better already.","attachment":null,"posted":1715104131},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796737,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796677
Vase mode would fix it and it might be suitable for your part. More Linear/Pressure advance might fix it in other parts.","attachment":null,"posted":1715105165},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796761,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796677
You mean those end of layer blobs, or the horrendous layer shift?","attachment":null,"posted":1715109781},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796763,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">advertise machine with six weeks backlog
>show off long anticipated enclosure
>just two more weeks, guys
At this point he gotta be trolling.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715110769143491.png","filename":"1704001190840271.png"},"posted":1715110769},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796787,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
Alright, /diy/, you have the opportunity to kill exactly 2 krauts, but one has to endure long, painful death in which they remember every miserable moment of their faggot life, and the other dies quickly with barely any pain.
Which one of those two gets the quick bullet and why?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715117039615111.png","filename":"Stefan Sandladerer.png"},"posted":1715117039},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796788,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796761
>horrendous layer shift
The ender doesn't have dual-filament capabilities, i think he just stacked two prints for demonstration purposes","attachment":null,"posted":1715117066},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796790,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have an anycubic mono 4k that i haven’t used over the winter so it’s been collecting some dust. Are there any best practices i should do before printing with it again?
Re-lubricate anything, check any particular parts?","attachment":null,"posted":1715117247},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796792,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795434
Ignore the enclosure faggot, PETG loves to jam in one of those.
As long as the filament is dry and settings are fine the parts are going to be very strong and have a nice glossy finish.
If it's a bit damp or your settings are shit you might have stringing issues but a quick flash with a lighter usually takes care of those easily.
If it's wet as fuck and you have no fucking idea what are you doing it's going to be worse than no-chamber ABS and will be brittle as shit regardless of layer direction relative to the break.
I print multiples all the time and the stringing is minimal even with a 3-week old spool hanging on my constantly breaking chinesium frankenstein, and i'm certain my room is anything but dry.
Pop it under a filament box with holes on top of it on a bed 10 degrees lower than the bed temperature for a few hours if it seems to go to shit and it will be good as new as long as it's not past the flooding point.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715117567245915.jpg","filename":"GLEC0bAWUAA37Na.jpg"},"posted":1715117567},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796795,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796792
>10 degrees lower than the bed temperature
Fuck i meant 10 degrees lower than the bed in your filament profile.","attachment":null,"posted":1715117944},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796799,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are there any "planning" sites or middle school level formula to help me determine the most efficient order to print different items to make the most out of each spool? I'm doing a work project where I need to print 5 different drawer organizers for 60 total drawers, all of them ranging between 100g and 220g each.
For example, one of these files needs 175g of filament, so on a 1kg spool I could get 5 of those printed, but still have 125g left so I could print a 100g file out of it too.
I could sit down for a few minutes and manually figure out the most efficient use of each spool but is there a faster, premade way where I can just plug in "need 60 of these 100g caddies, 60 of these 175g caddies, etc" and have it automatically tell me how many of each to print per spool?","attachment":null,"posted":1715118373},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796887,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796799
nvm i just remembered filament runout sensors are like $10","attachment":null,"posted":1715131766},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796938,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796887
>not getting an ams so you can automatically hot-swap filament when it runs out","attachment":null,"posted":1715143310},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
gm kings, I have a question:
Will I die if I use a 235mm PEI steel plate on a 210mm heat bed? Will there be warpage from the overhang?
I own a kingroon kp3s pro s1 with bed size 210x210mm. I am currently using the stock glass bed. I would like to try using PEI with the magnetic sticker, however I can't seem to find any that are 210mm for a reasonable price. I do see 235mm ones for cheaper.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715158967816177.jpg","filename":"platte pei und magnetfuß.jpg"},"posted":1715158967},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796977
it'll be fine
the magnet might sag though, or at the very least be stucky underneath, so you might want to trim it after you stick it on","attachment":null,"posted":1715159083},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796985,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796977
bambufags don't want you to know this one weird trick a local anon uses to increase the size of his bed! creality shitters shocked!","attachment":null,"posted":1715162075},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2796999,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796787
left gets it slow because of the more punchable, dysgenic face and especially his cancerous catchphrase
t. kraut","attachment":null,"posted":1715167584},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797001,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796977
Anon please, official kingroon store has one exactly for your printer for like 25bucks.","attachment":null,"posted":1715168672},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796792
Fuck youdumbass communist mother fucker","attachment":null,"posted":1715177208},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797050,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796978
Thank You.","attachment":null,"posted":1715179491},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797133,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795974
Things were just copied shit over and over until bambu came along.
Now it's copied decent stuff.
Creality still a shit.
more things change, more they stay the same","attachment":null,"posted":1715190319},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795523
glass buildplates are for bundles of sticks
your nozzle and bed are too hot. 190/60, dont need different temps for first layer, just dont turn on part cooling until layer 2/3
havent had an issue since i started using those settings and properly set my offset.","attachment":null,"posted":1715191928},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797257,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm crazy and I want to try to use 3D printed "boards" as a face frame for a tiny shelf.
Have you ever tried to drive a brad nail through PLA? What happened? What would you expect to happen?
How well does polyurethane construction adhesive bond to PLA?","attachment":null,"posted":1715211063},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797275,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2793796
Anybody here tried the amolen dual color PLA? How is it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715214279},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797309,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797257
>PLA? What happened? What would you expect to happen?
the top, and probably bottom layers would split, and the infill would collapse a bit, any stresses on the member thereafer would contribute to mechanical failure of the fixing.
If you screwed, or maybe even nailed into printed holes it would work better, but probably not much unless the nail had a lot of room around it and the pla.
PLA is brittle.
PETG would deal with crucifixion better, but it'd likely still split.","attachment":null,"posted":1715223861},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797325,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I just unearthed another vintage filament; 2018 TPU.
Never printed this stuff before, but my ridiculously uncommon sink needs a grommet. So once more unto the breach.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715226201390748.png","filename":"2024-05-09--13-40-15.png"},"posted":1715226201},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797353,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794705
I want to maked babby with Aurora","attachment":null,"posted":1715229849},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797382,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797325
well, that worked really nicely. first try. seems like it'll seal adequately too.
fuck yeah 3dprinter
>>2797309
model the holes and screw them down... now thats another matter. PLA becomes brittle in prolonged direct sunlight (like; years), but PETG should be pretty resilient. That said it might be more likely to bow than PLA.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715236466526400.png","filename":"2024-05-09--16-31-28.png"},"posted":1715236466},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797407,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"entredasting....voice to print:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6r9seFPvF0","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715252195037019.png","filename":"2024-05-09--20-55-48.png"},"posted":1715252195},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797453,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Testing. The nails are holding and the parts are not visibly losing their integrity.
I think this is gonna work.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715262673690959.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240508_204429.jpg"},"posted":1715262673},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"trying the free spool of transparent rose color petg I got from my bro and dialing in the settings (still fuzzy), did a vase print of a pen holder model to see if I got the seam again on my previous vase mode prints, and this is the girthiest yet
I was about to go on a long rant how the feds are somehow doing this to me but then someone whispered in my ear: turn off timelapse in Octoprint
and since I am using octo4a on a crusty old tablet with the cam off, it suddenly makes sense","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715291542718873.jpg","filename":"1704572383984925.jpg"},"posted":1715291542},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797633,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what programs do you guys use to split a model into pieces
Im done with this model but after putting it into a slicer the amount of supports for the main body is insane, im thinking of splitting it into 3
I tried in blender but it fucks up the mesh WAY too much","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715293144039923.png","filename":"ready.png"},"posted":1715293144},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797640,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
I use blender. How are you trying to do it in blender?
I use a plane with a solidify modifier to give the joint some wiggle room. Then I use a boolean modifier (pointed at the plane) to cut the part.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715294447259972.png","filename":"Screenshot from 2024-05-09 17-38-16.png"},"posted":1715294447},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797640
do you actually use the stuff that stl exporter has?
I used to use it a long time ago, but never really found it very useful. iirc something about the exportname field used to piss me off too.
Returning to 3dprinting recently i just started using the inbuilt one.
Initially i thought id need to error checking of the 3dprint toolbox plugin, but i'm finding that I totally dont, even with linux orca being incapable of mesh repair.
>>2797633
So just slice it vertically down the center from front to rear and lay it on its side to print.
Sounds like you expected blender to have a button that neatly separates and arranges parts. (lol)
Try select it > tab (edit mode) > 1 (vertex mode) > select a vertex > ctrl-L (should select all linked vertexes, depending on the model topology that may be a single component of the mask) > p (separate).
tab ... and now you should have two separate objects that you can examine for ease-of printing.
This method wont necessarily make things easier to print, but it may be useful in making breaking it into smaller parts to print separately and assemble later.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715299978349799.png","filename":"2024-05-10--10-01-42.png"},"posted":1715299978},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797700,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797615
So what was timelapse doing to mess it up, halting for a second or something?","attachment":null,"posted":1715302774},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795828
Good tips
>Probably the same chemicals
Maybe you could check the Material Safety Data Sheet?","attachment":null,"posted":1715303094},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797749,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Any camera recommendation for crisp 1080p print recordings?
For some reason arducam 16mp seems to do better in an enclosed printer than their 64mp version. C922 is around for the c920, but doesnt seem to perform any better in actual image quality? Wyze doesnt seem to be thing here, without import.
Currently leaning towards arducam 16mp due to it's low foot print.","attachment":null,"posted":1715308401},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797767,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797749
try using a 2-5MPx camera instead of 16
1920*1080=2,073,600 = 2MPx
The 5MPx OV5647 based cameras I use on my raspberry pizero security cams are best at 1296x972 the res is basically the same as 1080HD visually, but the cams ability to output the lower res is more useful.
It can do still images of 2592x1944(=5,038,848), hence the 5MPx specification, but how efficiently the camera chip can spit that out in a mjpg streamable form - either by scaling or cropping - is really what defines 'good' in a webcam. Not the maximum pixel format.
It may also be that the USB is a bottleck at some point: cam chipset, cable, connector, bus, etc
Or maybe the lens resolution is garbage compared to the sensor resolving power, this seems ot be pretty common.
Or maybe the compression the camera or the OS arbitrates for the stream is just shit for 'crisp 1080p' and better for onlyfans.","attachment":null,"posted":1715312927},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797769,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797767
I'll check em. But from everything i saw yet, the regular 5mp raspberry pi cameras all sucked ass and not the good way.","attachment":null,"posted":1715313551},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797770,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797769
i didnt mean picams specifically, i meant stop looking at more megapixels as being better
Are you even using a CSI socket pi board that can drive a pi camera?
The skipr board i use in my printer has integrated pi, but no CSI, so i have to use USB cams.
These dont totally suck.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005510880232.html
But I'm also not 1080p-ing it
v4l2-ctl --list-formats-ext -d /dev/v4l/by-id/usb-170428-_Integrated_Webcam_HD-video-index0
#ioctl: VIDIOC_ENUM_FMT
# Type: Video Capture
# [0]: 'MJPG' (Motion-JPEG, compressed)
# Size: Discrete 1280x720
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 640x480
# Interval: Discrete 0.040s (25.000 fps)
this is pretty garbage, but i AM 1080p-ing it
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002342741767.html
picrel: >>2797325
# [0]: 'MJPG' (Motion-JPEG, compressed)
# Size: Discrete 1920x1080
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 2592x1944
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 2560x1440
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 1280x720
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 640x480
# Interval: Discrete 0.017s (60.000 fps)
# Size: Discrete 1920x1080
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)
# Interval: Discrete 0.033s (30.000 fps)","attachment":null,"posted":1715314062},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797775,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">after writing all that
>figures he should find out what an arducam is
oh shi... its a CSI cam.
Ok so you are using a pi then.
I doubt there is a simple way to know what is 'better' until you use them for a while, unless you can find someone who has done v4l2-ctl --list-formats-ext on all of them you cant really know whats likely to be a res/rate that the hardware/firmware will like best.
Buy one and let us know with screenshots.","attachment":null,"posted":1715315625},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797776,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"lol, WTF","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715315899738475.png","filename":"2024-05-10--14-37-23.png"},"posted":1715315899},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797777,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"btw, autofocus is probably a bad idea, unless it has a v4l2-ctl control to specify and lock the focus distance
Similarly fixed focus lenses are always focused too far away, so unless you know they havent glued the focus helicoid into the mount thread it's probably also a bad idea. That's probably why youve heard the picams suck; inability to focus them closer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715316105},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797782,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795770
thats a z seam the puckered herpes version is from randomizing the seam","attachment":null,"posted":1715316768},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797783,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797776
just use a crappy 10$ usb webcam","attachment":null,"posted":1715316945},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797817,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
I happened to open thingiverse just now and this helmet was on the page...
Yeah, whoever made this is one of those douchebags who makes 3d garbage, not even designed for 3dprinting, and then tosses everything onto sites specifically for 3dprinted things.
It's not even a fucking .stl, its an .obj.
And the orientation is Wavefront retarded.
Theres even a visor inside the visor...
These people fucking suck.
So the model is composed of 3 easily separable parts; none of which makes it any easier to print.
The visor(s) could be printed without supports fairly easily, but theres no design for where the two supposedly slide against each other..whatsoever. So The only thing that would be worth printing would be the helmet itself, using a shitload of organic support, and then youd have to redesign a visor to actually fit, and rotate in a way that didnt involve clipping through the helmet.
After scaling it to 60% to get it into my 220x220 plate its ~45% support and 13 hours printing.
Cutting it into printable parts would be the way to go, but youd need to spend a lot of time designing useful joints.
Fuck that.
Fuck these retards who upload this garbage.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715331057842863.jpg","filename":"2024-05-10--18-47-24.jpg"},"posted":1715331057},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797840,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What is the white goop that bambu use to seal around their nozzle?
Becasue these fucking things leak like sieves unless I tighten them so hard it's got me worried i'm going to snap something. I't hard to grip the heatsink part without endangering the heater pad.
I noticed that the pre-assembled hotend had white sealant around the nozzle tip when i got it, but i've changed tips since then. I stopped it leaking the first time by sheer force, but if theres a goop i can use like plumbers tape I'd like to try it out.
It might actually be the white ?silicone" cement often used to pot PCBs or attach heatsinks. Hardens flexible, but not much.
Anyone know?
lol, i'd try actual plumbers tape if it wasnt teflon (toxic offgassing ~250C)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715341228235443.png","filename":"2024-05-10--21-37-51.png"},"posted":1715341228},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797817
sometimes the models are grouped parts which you can see and explode in meshmixer. it's not planned it's just another artifact of bad design.","attachment":null,"posted":1715346401},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797875,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"guys how do I get motivated. I've been staring at fusion360 for two days and of the two things I need to make I've drawn two circles for the hinge tube and gotten no further. I've got the printer I've got the software I've got the skills I just don't want to make anything suddenly; I don't want to make decisions. what the fuck is wrong with me.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715346674182334.jpg","filename":"20231210_192752.jpg"},"posted":1715346674},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797876,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797873
Yeah I can see what it is; probably a hud overlay or some other hud/visor layer, but the way these cunts post this shit on a 3dprinting specific site is just obnoxious.","attachment":null,"posted":1715346788},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797888,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797679
Yes, I use the addon exporter sometimes. Mostly when I'm in a hurry and my part doesn't have any modifiers I need to apply before export. And yeah, I've noticed too that the errors don't seem to matter much at all in orca.","attachment":null,"posted":1715348601},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797889,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797875
when i get like that i usually go print something big and useless, like a prop from a movie or video game, first was the space marine helmet, now its a lex prime from warframe.
gives me a day or 2 of playing around with filament swaps and almost always leads to me designing a stand or something to go with the prop, plus i usually give them to friends and family since all i can see is the faults and what i could do better, while they just see this magical object made real.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715349264083583.jpg","filename":"lex prime.jpg"},"posted":1715349264},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797891,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
orca has built in tools for splitting","attachment":null,"posted":1715349368},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797840
That's no sealant, just boron nitride paste. A hotend seals itself mechanically by heat. If yours doesn't, it's either defect or wrong assembled.
>>2797777
Not heard, watched footage on youtube. There's not a single clip out there without blurfest.
>>2797776
Dunno what translates to. They're like 30€ here.
>>2797775
>CSI cam
Yeah, which makes my other concern: pi getting overwhelmed from processing. Not fond of blobs on my print.
>>2797770
Looks shitty enough, i'll look for some footage.","attachment":null,"posted":1715349913},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797935,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797679
>Sounds like you expected blender to have a button that neatly separates and arranges parts
No I didnt, just the way I've been doing it for my past couple projects took way to long and stuff wouldnt line up perfectly after the split
I try to model these helmets with a way of splitting it but with this one I really couldnt figure it out and have it look right.
I remember a while back using mesh mixer but thats super cumbersome","attachment":null,"posted":1715355318},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I made a model of my living room in Inventor to help with visualizing furniture and its placement. My goal is to print out a .dwg drawing of the empty room scaled down to a standard piece of paper, and that much I have done just fine.
I also want grid lines included in the drawing though, to help arrange stuff. Specifically, I want grid lines that are scaled in the same way as the model of the room is scaled, and preferably have them aligned to a useful reference point (say the far left wall) instead of just being arbitrarily slapped onto the sheet. I want these to be actually printed out, so that we can use the grid lines to be able to move a scale paper cut-out and say "oh if we go over 2 lines thats the same as 2 feet" or whatever.
Any ideas? Should I just put a grid in the original part file soit shows up and gets scaled correctly in the derived drawing file, or is there an easy and fast way to do this?
pic related. The top down view is what I am going to print out and what I want grid lines on, the weird diagonal view is just there to show the jist of the 3d model I derived it from and wont be included.
>TLDR: How do I add scale grid-lines to a inventor .dwg drawing file when I print it out?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715364743129560.png","filename":"Capture.png"},"posted":1715364743},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2797984,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
I've used meshmixer and it's worked pretty well for me. It could be an easier process but it works well enough as long as you are careful with where you make your plane cuts and not changing them after you start. There are probably other options that are better however.","attachment":null,"posted":1715365184},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
I've used freecad but it's awful. The mesh toolbox isn't parametric like partdesign. Next time I'll figure build123d out.","attachment":null,"posted":1715370705},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798052,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797875
Sounds like it could be an executive dysfunction issue. (basically means that the part of your brain that does thinking, planning, risk/reward, I have the same kind of thing sometimes. Hate making decisions, committing to anything, have difficulty getting started and especially "getting around to" doing stuff, even stuff I enjoy doing and have wanted to do for a long time. If it's an ongoing thing in your life you might want to get checked out by a therapist or tested or something. Like specifically for executive dysfunction. It can be its own thing or be co-morbid with many other things like ADHD, autism, anxiety, depression, etc. Trust me, if you are seeing similar patterns in other parts of your life, you REALLY want to address it NOW and not 8 years later like I did. Because it CAN be treated.","attachment":null,"posted":1715375547},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798111,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798052
I have similar problems, but instead of doing nothing I waste a bunch of time on projects that don't matter. Shallow vs deep work, I've heard it referred as.
Also please close your parentheses.","attachment":null,"posted":1715381744},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798112,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798111
Yeah I notice I do that too a lot. Like even playing minecraft, I avoid the cool but complicated stuff and instead tend to default to just grinding in mob farms to get absurd quantities of materials.
And yeah, I noticed I forgot to close the parentheses right after it posted lol.","attachment":null,"posted":1715381992},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798144,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798052
what was your treatment?","attachment":null,"posted":1715387032},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798163,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797777
Only time I use autofocus is when taking pictures with my smartphone.","attachment":null,"posted":1715389219},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My friend got a 3d printer and has been using it to make a bunch of cool shit like model tanks and car parts and now I want in. I've spent 3 days watching how-tos and guides but I still can't decide on what to buy for a first printer. All I really care about is print quality with PLA, ant not costing over $1000. Preferably not locked to proprietary software like bamboo, but if it's best in class I can cope.","attachment":null,"posted":1715393045},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">cleaning out garage
>find two unopened rolls of PETG, still in their package
>put them aside while I brush the bench down
>look back at the rolls
>one is covered in ants
>move them both outside
>shake the spools out of their boxes
>ants everywhere
>ant eggs stuck to one of the spools
>carry them down to the outdoor tap
>rinse ants and eggs off the spool that had the nest
>rinse the few spare ants that got on the other spool too
>vacuum seal doesn't feel as strong
>look closer, the mark where the spools fell out onto concrete broke the seal
>on both spools
>water actually got inside one of them
>buy some plastic containers the right size for a roll of filament upright
>take spools out of their bags, wipe them down if needed, and shove them in the containers
>add some bags of silica gel i'd been saving for a special occasion
>leave in sun
shit, will the spool that got wet be ok with just desiccant and a bit of warmth, or will i need to really heat it up? i'll probably buy a dht11 module to measure it.
might as well modify one of the boxes to work as a heated dry box that can be directly printed out of anyhow.","attachment":null,"posted":1715393426},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798191,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798188
Sovol SV08 is pretty good if you don't try to print giga-fast with it, and you're willing to get your hands a little dirty with klipper. I'd also consider the Creality K1 series, and the Bambu series.
FYI PLA isn't very good for car parts, the hot temperatures inside parked cars in summer can really soften and deform them. PETG might be good enough. Personally I'd aim for the ability to reliably print ABS, since it's stronger and cheaper than PLA, but needs a heated enclosure for large prints without warping. But that's my desire as someone who already owns two unenclosed bedslinger printers, so take it with a grain of salt.","attachment":null,"posted":1715393652},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798191
>Sovol SV08 is pretty good
That's one I've been looking at a lot, especially with it having a decent print bed size. I can get the SV07 for a lot cheaper though.
The other main ones I were looking at are the AnkerMake M5C for (apparently) being noob friendly and retard proof, and the Ender 3 V3 KE for having a large install base for troubleshooting.
>FYI PLA isn't very good for car parts,
I'm aware, just something he makes. I'd probably just make nerd shit like models for DnD and other crafts, nothing that's really heat or tension sensitive. I'd like to do ABS eventually but it seems like a lot of hassle, I'd like to get some hands on experience first.","attachment":null,"posted":1715394475},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798188
A1 mini. if your friend prints look good imagine them with color.","attachment":null,"posted":1715395446},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798188
Neptune 4 Max if you want cheap and a big print bed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715395646},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798202,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797981
>>>/3/","attachment":null,"posted":1715395696},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798216,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">do orcaslicer flow rate calibration
>Save profile
>Can't find it in drop down
Why?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715397378800870.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715397378},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798223,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798201
recommending a neptune 4 max as babies first printer is insane","attachment":null,"posted":1715400008},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798245,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798190
petg is kinda hygroscopic but a couple minutes of exposure to water won't do shit. it can stand on ready for months in a humid room and still be perfectly printable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715404228},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798246,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797894
>That's no sealant, just boron nitride paste.
nah. It's in the outermost couple of threads between the nozzle and the heatblock, and its silicon-ish when set hard.
It's almost certainly what i said:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006079288411.html
>A hotend seals itself mechanically by heat.
Should. But the white silicon-goop it's supplied with would imply otherwise.
The original sealed nozzle worked ok, but i switched it for a 0.6 and that leaked. Then that nozzle got a hard clog i didnt feel like removing in-situ, so i put a new 0.6 in, and strongly tightened it. It leaked.
I just now strongly tightened it again, at 240C. It leaks. Less, but it still leaks.
Admittedly I'm not disassembling it to do this, the silver paste under the ceramic heater and thermistor makes the idea of that extremely undesirable because its messy shit.
But I do have little spanners - they may heve beed supplied with the hotend, i forget - that fit both the nozzle and the end of the heatblock, so I'm tightening it pretty effectively.
The hotend was supplied as an assembled whole, but given that they supply it with sealant in its nozzle thread I'm going to assume they tend to leak without it, and that the bambu nozzle design is a bit *more* shit than the original, and somewhat shit reprap way.
Frankly the original concept of screwing a nozzle into press fit against a threaded heatbreak that is also screwed in from the opposite end of the heatblock... was a slightly shit idea. But the way bambu just hope the nozzle will seal against a ...what is it? steel? titanium? flange. Well its an even more shit idea.
It really needs some kind of 300C-tolerant ring to seal it.
...hmm, or a tiny copper washer...
...or some white goop, which I'm ordering now.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715404440482356.png","filename":"2024-05-11--15-13-13.png"},"posted":1715404440},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798248,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've always had best results tightening nozzles at high temps. I'll try tightening it at lower temp next time, but it needs to be hot or the traces of petg thats in there already will just interfere.","attachment":null,"posted":1715404672},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798250,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798248
nozzles are supposed to be tightened hot","attachment":null,"posted":1715404986},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798263,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798250
I know, but maybe I should tighten them a bit below what I use them at so the thermal expansion is at least working in the right direction.
I tend to tighten them with temps that are above what I usually print at, and that may be an issue with this particular setup.
Haven't done it yet because right now i dont really care if boogers drop every so often; they arent bouncing the hotend and im only doing 200% speed rough prints to get a base design so I can start refining an orthotic.","attachment":null,"posted":1715411797},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798289,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"voron 2.4
ge5c modded and w/tap
why the fuck, x axis looks perfect
resonance graphs are joke, it feels like i am getting raped by it","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715424444922038.png","filename":"1715424243721.png"},"posted":1715424444},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798289
here's an x axis if anyone's interested.
mind that the slight bump on 250hz is very likely due to tap (rc8, printed, z1 preload)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715427715401783.png","filename":"1715427562236.png"},"posted":1715427715},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798299,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798298
i mean 125 what was i thinking lol","attachment":null,"posted":1715427934},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798324,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797633
prusa has built in tools for that","attachment":null,"posted":1715435059},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How can I get cura to add supports at this specific spot?
Also how to get better quality in the areas that are supported so they don't end up looking like ramen noodle cake?
Has to be printed on it's side for strength reasons, it's an arrow nock and will be taking massive impulse forces.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715436622985592.jpg","filename":"Capture.jpg"},"posted":1715436622},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798340,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798328
that shit looks small, even miniscule
i'd rather flatten top and bottom to make it printable supportless","attachment":null,"posted":1715438415},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798345,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798052
>executive dysfunction issue
The immediate goal was too hard or too easy. The top of the Todo list was defective in that it would produce skills and artefacts that aren't worth the effort, so the committee rejected it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715439484508886.jpg","filename":"personal_learning_curve_1200x720.jpg"},"posted":1715439484},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798363,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do .f3d files include any metadata I should be concerned about? Uploading some replacement parts for tabletop games to BGG and figured I might as well include everything if there's no reason not to.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715441115990177.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-11 082228.png"},"posted":1715441115},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798371,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798363
Not exactly. They don't contain identify info, and they can't be linked directly back to your Autodesk account. They do have some distinct info, like references to local files, which includes paths that exist on your computer. Someone could potentially glean your Windows username from this info, not exactly a big risk.
It's worth noting that STEP files often include extra unnecessary bullshit, including the possibility of identifying information.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715441929101794.jpg","filename":"stepfiles.jpg"},"posted":1715441929},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798371
Right on. Names and paths are fine by me, my Windows username is just my first name, and that's on my Steam profile anyways, as long as it's not leaking email and last name and stuff like that. Thanks!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715442819896097.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240511_153540393.jpg"},"posted":1715442819},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798387,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what do you guys think about my robo sluts?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715446863300512.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240511_142725.jpg"},"posted":1715446863},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798395,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798289
>>2798298
I don't understand what I'm looking at here.","attachment":null,"posted":1715447806},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798397,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798387
They're lovely whores, anon.","attachment":null,"posted":1715448014},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798450,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798328
Increase overhang support angle or something.
But that's a Bad model to print. Maybe change those angles up? Don't go above 40° to make it printable with no supports.
Your biggest issue is that you put your z-seams on those overhangs though. You can't start your print in air big guy idk why cura let's you do that anyway...","attachment":null,"posted":1715458973},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798536,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798328
>How can I get cura to add supports at this specific spot?
LERN2CURA
Use paint-on-supports or whatever cura calls it.
>don't end up looking like ramen noodle cake?
Do an overhang angle test print, and then design your overhangs to be within your printers tolerance.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5194357
Straight angles are going to work better than curves.
>Has to be printed on it's side
>>2798340
>i'd rather flatten top and bottom
this","attachment":null,"posted":1715471848},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798552,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796977
Don't do it, it will make mustang gas","attachment":null,"posted":1715474945},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is it just me or does PLA always favour the low end of its labeled temperature range?
captcha: SSS0Y","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715479958507543.png","filename":"2024-05-12--12-09-23.png"},"posted":1715479958},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798631,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798588
what the fuck, are you printing with decade old filament again?","attachment":null,"posted":1715488351},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798651,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798395
klipper resonance test graphs, you can use it to diagnose your machines mechanical state or tune input shaper parameters
basically i want to get a single peak, not multiple peaks","attachment":null,"posted":1715494324},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798631
nope, well yes, but not this particular filament. It's <1 month old kingroon PLA.
Note that it printed the flat section nicely, but lost its shit on the steep slope...mind you its printing 0.4mm TALL layers too, so theres that....as soon as i lowered the temp to 190C s it behaved normally again.
Every PLA ive ever seen has some 190-220C advisory, and yet i found myself using 180C with the end of the last batch, i guess this new stuff is similar.
Starting to lose interest in PLA though, it lacks plasticity::breaks too easily.
...now I'll just have to use the remaining 9Kg on 'other junk'... idk what though.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715494334734810.jpg","filename":"timelapse_0.6No_0.6Li_0.4La_PETG_AFO-test.gcode_20240512_0043.jpg"},"posted":1715494334},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is there a program that can recognize a shitty polycam scan of a few different people's heads, and then provide an easier way to modify them?
tl;dr for a project I needed to scan and print a few people's heads and faces but even under the best conditions, the stls I have of the heads are all pretty shit like pic related. I normally use blender for basic geometric shit but for more organic shapes like this I'm clueless other than painstakingly trying to individually move the x,y,z of each individual vertex. I'm hoping to just import an stl and
>import/recognize face
>"alright the eyes look like shit with no definition"
>clean up eyes
>"great ok lets make the smile a bit bigger"
>drag smile slider a little bit to the right
etc","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715494671440303.jpg","filename":"hq720.jpg"},"posted":1715494671},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798657,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796787
Left gets quick end. Right however not because he looks like a redditor and his YT personality is annoying and gay","attachment":null,"posted":1715495699},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798654
reduce the polygon count or remove all the superfluously small triangles... sure. Thats pretty easy to do with one of several modifiers.
Automatically apply faggoty subjective adjustment to aspects of the mesh that only something like modern AI can even recognise? Don't be so naive.
There may be an AI that deals with mesh, and it may even be able to take input like the garbage you specified above, and it may even be interfaceable through blender.... but theres no way you will get it with the zero effort you want.
To do anyhting with technical *with no effort*, you need something approaching a doctorate level knowledgebase in some other related fields.
Dont be a lazy fuck. Look up blenders decimate modifier. Or all of the similar pointcloud reduction tools in any other program.
And if you then still need to mash peoples faces away from reality, look into 'proportional editing' in blender.","attachment":null,"posted":1715496213},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798659,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798658
>you need doctoral level knowledge to edit meshes
kid just stop","attachment":null,"posted":1715496461},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798661,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798659
lol, 'kid'... only in spirit.
also: your reading comprehension sucks
If you only know how to manipulate vertices you obviously need to learn the related blender tools. Or another applications tools.
Cleaning up a mesh that is too low res to even capture the details you are talking about is extremely tedious, and you need skills you dont have to even do it becasue it involves *making the new geometry yourself*
Try just putting the texture onto the mesh, that at least visually enhances a shit mesh.
...you did capture the texture at the same time as the geometry...right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715497330},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"also: try opening a new blender session with the sculpting default
play with that, remeber the shortcut keys and then import the stl to try your hand at it.
fgt","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715497597880765.png","filename":"2024-05-12--17-03-44.png"},"posted":1715497597},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798665,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798652
ntc thermistors aren't really known for accuracy/precision
there's a high chance that your hotend is hotter that what it reports
it is advisable to check the actual temp
>>2798387
looks very nice, which multicolor solution did you use?
>>2797889
that eerily sounds similar to how i feel about my designs
also check out my asa-cf benchy
carbide nozzle very good","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715497702944797.jpg","filename":"20240512_160448.jpg"},"posted":1715497702},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798665
>ntc thermistor
its the stock bambu thermistor, with paste rather deftly applied..even if i do say so myself.
i guess maybe its an ntc component in the glass bulb, but idk. I wouldnt think they could be orders of 10-20C off being correct either.
I've seen this same behaviour across numerous boards/thermistors/hotends too.
I'm starting to wonder if maybe its the matte light grey pigment used in PLA that makes it like that.
I have some vague, decade old, memory of white PLA being weird like that too.
>>2798665
Nice. also: Pshaw. Perfect benchies are so 20th century.
What else have you printed with that machine? Surely you have something equally sexy in the 'not a benchie/calibration cube' category?","attachment":null,"posted":1715498764},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798246
>nah
>silicia gel
I'm not even gonna bother.","attachment":null,"posted":1715499082},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798671
your reading comprehension sucks too
its funny and horrifying at the same time","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715499548241949.webm","filename":"2024-05-10--16-02-46_look_ma_im_a_jedi.webm"},"posted":1715499548},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798675,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798670
oh, matte or white ones
i have no idea what actually is going on but it seems additive/pigment really do some funny stuff.
all "white" filaments i've used were kinda off
they were kinda pain in the ass to deal with and i just stopped using them alltogehter at some point. but i am building ercf now and might have to deal with them again..
the machine is still being tuned and assembled, it was a first print being other than its own parts lol","attachment":null,"posted":1715500044},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798681,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So I'm printing some functionals part and am getting weird inaccuracies with any circular hole. Overall the parts seem to fit just fine, but for instance a hole that was meant to be 15,1mm in diameter ends up being 14,75, 6mm one is 5,7 or so etc. Is this a mechanical issue or slicer issue(dunno, "wall" builds half inside and half outside of the model or something)?","attachment":null,"posted":1715503657},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpKCfZ4k4uA
it's up
i wonder if a thickness sensor can be incorporated into this to make extrusions consistent regardless of what bottle you cut up and accomodate for welded joints.
also seems like that papilio belt extruder should be able to print tape in the same way if not better than 2d printer rubber rollers.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715505190277493.png","filename":"eee.png"},"posted":1715505190},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798686,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798588
Print temp towers before attempting prints like this with a new filaments.
The rating on the box is wrong because 1. your printer may be off by few degrees 2. they want you to turn the printer on, load filament in and work no matter what it is - if your printer runs too hot it will still get the basic shape right, if it runs too cold it has the "reserve" to still work, had it been super duper accurate you'd have situations where the client is complaining because he set up the temperature right where it should be and the extruder couldn't make it leave the nozzle.
Generally the lower the temp the better, less overextrusion problems and less stringing, especially if you're doing something decorative it matters.
t. tried to push that side of my cheap printer to the limit","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715505764326590.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240512_105131224.jpg"},"posted":1715505764},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798687,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798681
its a common and well known issue
iirc nobody fixes it becasue everyone already works around it by adding a specific amount ot the hole diameter
orca has it as an option, probably any slicer based on the same source does too (prusaslicer etc)
I have premade objects i use in blender for all of the metric bolts etc that i own, their boolean shell component is 0.4mm larger than the bolt mesh component
eg: a 3mm dia bolt has a 3.4mm dia boolean
but that was for a 0.4mm nozzle, im using a 0.6 now so its probably not quite the same, but iirc it still works fairly well (havent printed a bolthole for a while). That said its almost always a good idea to run a drill bit into a hole by hand just to make sure its smooth. If you happen to need to cut out a little extra material to get it in there its still pretty much the same effort. (none)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715505797576262.png","filename":"2024-05-12--19-18-16.png"},"posted":1715505797},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798689,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798686
>Print temp towers before attempting prints like this with a new filaments.
i hear you... but meh; normally i just notice it immediately and adjust.
I was also just using a petg profile instead of actually thinking about it, the only real diff is temperature, and I guess I know now that hot is no good for this grey pla batch, just like the prior one.
>1. your printer may be off by few degrees
It's not off by 10-20 degrees.
It is a little unusual though; when the minimum suggested is 190C and 180C is actually better.
It's possible that this is limited to grey PLA though: All my pla is grey.
I've only just started printing PETG again, and I'm noticing its suggested temps are actually useful. But cyan, green, and dark grey are also different pigments..in a different filament medium.
It's also possible ChAiNa just puts a generic text on all labels and only changes the material type to suit. (Which seems to be like what you were saying)
>Generally the lower the temp the better,
For aesthetic-only printing; sure. But for people wanting part strength or a slicker surface/smoother layer integration; hot is almost always better, at least as far as ive seen with PETG/PLA.","attachment":null,"posted":1715506553},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798694,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798665
>looks very nice, which multicolor solution did you use?
thanks! Printed entirely in silver PLA and then painted using a fine brush and acrylic paint :3","attachment":null,"posted":1715506992},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798701,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798686
thats the most beautiful print I've ever see
wish mine cam out that pretty","attachment":null,"posted":1715509019},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798704,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798673
>I just got this laser that can burn stuff
>I'm sure it's not dangerous to my eyes","attachment":null,"posted":1715509763},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798686
what nozzle diameter?
also: just switched to 0.8mm nozzle, becasue now in want-fast-prototypes mode","attachment":null,"posted":1715509843},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798694
wait... so you *painted* a print and were passing it off as good print quality?
YOU SLUT!","attachment":null,"posted":1715509928},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798710,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798694
i... kneel..
thought it was a gold/silver silk filament with red handpainted bits","attachment":null,"posted":1715510704},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798712,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798673
Too bad none of the reflections went into his eyes","attachment":null,"posted":1715510936},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798673
what a moron
i guess those cheap ass handheld laser thingy having that funny lightsabre shape doesn't really help too","attachment":null,"posted":1715511070},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798705
For these precision things I use 0.2mm.
I've tried 0.1mm ones but they just don't work, layer adhesion at 0.08mm layer is piss poor(iirc the textbook rule is that 80% of nozzle diameter is the limit of where the print will at least keep its shape), the support turn into these stringy things you can't get off the model(and you have to add more of them because the maximum overhangs you can do are smaller) and you can't go down with layer size because from what I understand all printers do Z axis movements in 0.04mm increments and at 0.04mm the heat radiated by the nozzle deforms the print underneath to the point where a small amount of overextrusion will start blobbing up until it will inevitably make the nozzle break it off the build plate.
There are some solutions to this, but I couldn't be arsed to check them.","attachment":null,"posted":1715512052},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798732,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798719
>all printers do Z axis movements in 0.04mm increments
Well the thermal aspect is part of thin layers, yes.
But the Z resolution is a function of stepper steps, and leadscrew thread pitch (assuming its a leadscrew and not belt or something else)
Normal nema =200steps per 360 rotation
Typical 8mm diameter leadscrew pitch is 8mm, but sometimes 2mm iirc
So for a 360deg rotation of the nema you get 8mm of bed/nozzle elevation.
8mm/200=0.04mm of elevation per step
...which isnt necessarily the smallest you can do with that nema/leadscrew combination, but it is the smallest you can get.. i guess... reliably/accurately.
But yeah, ive used 0.2mm nozzles to print interlocking gears with crisp dimensions, and it sucked.
It did however help to print the first layer as thick as possible, and then use thinner layers after that.
Also PET tape was pretty good, much better than a textured plate. Of course you can really only use PET tape with PLA prints.
picrel: first time printing 0.8mm nozzle at 0.6mm layers... for speed
I think I like it.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715515958061392.png","filename":"2024-05-12--22-10-28.png"},"posted":1715515958},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798737,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"ive got two ender 3's with the marlin 2.1.2.2. one has a silent board 4.7 and "jolts" the steppers every time its powered on (did it before the board swap too) the other is 4.2 board and says media init failed when i take out the sd. they both crash occasionally when inserting SD.
is there a more stable version or marlin or should i just deal with the bugs. also want to know if any upgraded stepper driver will change the sound of the steppers or just the ones that advertise "silent". i like the sounds but still want improved performance.","attachment":null,"posted":1715516702},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798737
ew, marlin
ew, SD cards
Sorry, cant help with marlin any more now that I'm a klipperguy
SD cards are something you should try to move up from. Get a wifi dongle or something and use a print manager like octo/fluidd/mainsail etc.
But yeah, maybe marlin cringes so hard when it registers an SD mount/unmount that it dies. Sounds a little like an electrical/firmware interaction bug though.
The noise your machine makes is a function of the frequencies the motor is being driven at. Sometimes the signal is within the audible range, and/or things wiggle within the audible range as harmonics.
32bit boards and modern drivers tend to be quieter, and the whole TMC 'silent' thing really is almost totally silent.
Not sure what board the ender 3 has, but if its not 32bit then you may not get a lot of silence from silent drivers. But I dont actually know.
It is however very nice to have no sound coming from your motors. Mines all fan and bearings now. When i get around to switching out the Y bearings for polymer bearings it'll just be swishing and fan sounds.","attachment":null,"posted":1715517432},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798739,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798684
i got a bit more ideas for this
instead of drilling the entire nozzle to 3 mm, a highly conical shape would be preferred. not sure how to make at home. an alternative can be stepped 2-2.5-3 shape.
the thickness measurement and adjustment can be done within a single unit with a cheap simple microcontroller that hijacks the extruder step input and then correlates it with ribbon thickness and adjusts the steps accordingly on the fly. baisically, as far as the rest of the printer is concerned, you're printing regular 1.75mm filament, while the extruder does the thickness adjustment magic. it's a simple integer operation with a bit of memory to account for the delay between sensor and nozzle, should be possible to do on something as simple as attiny 85 for maximum cheapo. handling retracts should be easy, record backwards steps and ignore as many forwards steps before resuming normal operation.
for even maximum-er cheapo, maybe incorporate this as a thickness gauge?
https://jfs-agri.com/index.php/bubsbuilds-projects/just-playin-and-concept-demo-projects/flexure-fun/68-displacement-sensor-double-compound-flexure-based
probably incompatible with the thickness measurement idea above, but the ribbon will be a lot easier to push, both by the extruder and into a circular hole, if it's creased down the middle, which can be done with cheap pipe cutter roller against either a rubber roller or a solid v-groove roller on the other side. tested, both seem to work, but require quite a bit of force and can cut the would-be filament so it's a step to add to the "production" step when you're spooling the bottle up. that way thin filament can be pushed harder.","attachment":null,"posted":1715517503},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798706
ahhh sowwy ;_;","attachment":null,"posted":1715520487},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798771,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798762
nah, my bad, i thought they meant that the benchy was painted
..which would be even gayer than printing figurines ;)
(says the guy with printed tits stuck to the front of his printer)","attachment":null,"posted":1715521190},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798794,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798673
Go on, what didn't i comprehend?","attachment":null,"posted":1715526491},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798852,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there any way to permanently set the flow rate to 110% on the K1C? With the FlowTech hotend I need to set it to that or I get bad bridging. For now I'm just changing it to 110% after the print starts, but it's annoying to have to watch it do it's little dance every time before being able to change it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715535772},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798868,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798852
Your slicer should have that setting","attachment":null,"posted":1715538778},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798956,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795242
"white" "petg"
are you fucking serious?
10KG?
100% sure that you'll regret it, hard","attachment":null,"posted":1715555942},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2798999,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798956
Why?","attachment":null,"posted":1715565321},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799004,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798956
i need(want) to do some functional prints that should be color-matched closer to a beige-ish interior paint and exterior coated aluminium railing, neither of which are exactly white, but are closer to white than grey.
Most of what I print are prototypes and get tossed in the trash anyway.
I decided when i first started 3d printing; to recognise filament as a consumable, and that being precious about it only inhibits my ability to explore printing. So now I buy cheap filament in bulk, and intentionally 'consume' it as a means to enjoy designing and then making all sorts of random stuff that usually fails interestingly, and sometimes becomes a life-improving part of my existence. I love the process and the way its generally edifying in tangents to electronics, mechanical design and engineering in general. I wish I had one of these things when i had all my potentially genius ideas in my 20s.
TL;DR: After already using 60% of the 10Kg of this disgusting 'green' >>2798732 I bought not long ago, I regret nothing. So 10Kg of white can't possibly be worse.... right? lol","attachment":null,"posted":1715566301},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799009,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799004
petg is imo harder to deal with than abs and white pigment is a cherry on top
2 things i avoid with at all cost are:
white petg and silk pla
those 2 such a great headache inducer
also i got my y axis problem fixed
squaring and de-racking the gantry really made some difference","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715567849765916.png","filename":"shaper_calibrate_y.png"},"posted":1715567849},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799021,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799004
Why not get clear then? It never fits perfect, but also never bad.
>>2799009
>petg is imo harder to deal with than abs
The fuck what now?","attachment":null,"posted":1715569814},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799032,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799021
>clear
ehhh, i dont think it would be as subtle as i want it to be. In one case I also need it to be mostly opaque, to block the sunlight entering around the edges of a roller blind is it's purpose.
But mostly because my most convenient and cost effective supplier wants nearly twice as much for any 'popular' color. Which completely negates the whole "its cheap so its fine to just burn through it" approach.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006064018961.html","attachment":null,"posted":1715572624},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799021
>The fuck what now?
ikr
even if it didnt stink in a way thats dangerous to health and airborne-particle filthy, ive seen the contortions people have to suffer for ABS prints.
I do have a roll however, for when PETG fails me structurally.","attachment":null,"posted":1715572848},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799044,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799033
I really don't what you're even trying to hint at. For me PETG is just higher temp PLA in every printing behavior.","attachment":null,"posted":1715575211},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799052,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">everyone prints on pei-covered steel plates nowadays
>every printer uses permanent magnets that hate being heated up to secure the plate and prevent usage of glass base, requiring probes and shit to compensate for warping
>every printer uses resistive heating to keep the bed warm, heating a lot of things that aren't the bed and requiring extra insulation
Now, hear me out. Inductively heated bed. A single-stop, elegant solution for all your troubles- glass's flatness with PEI sheet's convenience, and inductive plate's efficient heating and magnetism that magically vanishes once the power is out. It's not an off the shelf solution yet, inductive plates we have for cooking are too good at being heaters and not good enough at being magnets, and don't have precise enough control to keep a particular temperature while operating continiously to keep the magnet going, but I can see them being a big thing if they are adapted to printing needs.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715576603852437.png","filename":"IDC-4201C.png"},"posted":1715576603},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799080,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798739
Marlin is supposed to support a thickness sensor, so if you have spare pins you might not need a separate microcontroller. Maybe the optical sensor can get thickness directly.","attachment":null,"posted":1715582983},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799081,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799080
The problem with that is that regular filament is round and ribbon-ified bottle is flat with fixed width, so former cross-section increases by square while latter is linear.","attachment":null,"posted":1715583762},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799093,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798794
>Go on, what didn't i comprehend?
>>2799044
>I really don't what you're even trying to hint at","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715588095971823.jpg","filename":"689d86e8f3f32ef7ab644eb864841a99.jpg"},"posted":1715588095},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to 3D print a structure that will be immersed in ferric chloride etchant for weeks (it's a spacer for a pair of electrodes). Will PETG work for this? Or should I try to make the structure out of PVC bits from the hardware store?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715591501248291.gif","filename":"Chemical_Reference_Summary-small.gif"},"posted":1715591501},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799102,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799052
I suggested this a while ago here, got no responses. I think it would be a bit of a pain to construct, and expensive to make the driving electronics. Cheap induction hobs (like mine) use bang-bang control, but for such a thin piece of metal you'd want that either to be rather fast or to use continuous power variations. The heat will also be concentrated above the middle of the coil, so getting the temperature even may not be easy at all.
You'd probably be better with a radiative heating method, using infrared lamps/LEDs to shine through the glass and on the underside of the bed.
Or just use a thin-film kapton+copper heating element between the glass and the bed itself. Don't know why we ever put the heated bit below the glass in the first place.","attachment":null,"posted":1715591771},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799114,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799100
>ferric chloride
I'm guessing, but a quick wiki consult makes me think it looks like petg would be ok.","attachment":null,"posted":1715596242},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799116,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799093
Still no argument..
Here's one for you: your silicia gel dries up to coarse powder at continuous 200C. Now let's check upper PLA, lower PETG temperatures..
But sure, keep acting like a faggot with superiority complex.","attachment":null,"posted":1715597096},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799118,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799116
>silicia gel
where did he say silica gel?","attachment":null,"posted":1715598824},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are you silly girls still fighting over me?
squeee XD uwu rawr
I use far to many words so you buttclenching angrycunts wont """"ReAd"""" my posts. Stop it, now.
>>2797840
>It might actually be the white ?silicone" cement often used to pot PCBs or attach heatsinks.
image related: what it looks like
link related: (again) what i think it is (or high-temperature similar) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006079288411.html
It sure as fuck isnt silver paste or (lol) silica gel","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715601337851079.jpg","filename":"2024-05-13--21-26-40.jpg"},"posted":1715601337},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799127,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799052
>>2799102
yeh. For all the reasons already mentioned I wouldn't think this is a practical idea either.
But also mostly because a printbed *surface* is a CONSUMABLE item. You are going to need to replace it some time, if not fairly often.
Plus of course thinking you can get a magnetic locking force from an inductor thats being used to generate heat... seems sort of inefficient, or maybe just very impractical... i'm not sure which. Maybe it can do both simultaneously, but that feels illogical for some reason.","attachment":null,"posted":1715601972},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799130,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799102
>Don't know why we ever put the heated bit below the glass in the first place.
For flatness","attachment":null,"posted":1715602639},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799139,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799093
Yeah, yeah. Phone ate my words.","attachment":null,"posted":1715604579},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799143,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799100
if only you had some ferric chloride you could put petg in and test","attachment":null,"posted":1715605232},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799150,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795679
Yes.","attachment":null,"posted":1715606318},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799162,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799123
Your link is silica gel, faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715607978},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799081
I see the appeal of doing it with a small microcontroller, but the extruder stepper driver is almost certainly on the motherboard and at least for me it's easier to flash a new Marlin that does the right math, than to intercept the TMC2208 STEP pin to add/remove pulses at the right time.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715612498738769.jpg","filename":"adtm.jpg"},"posted":1715612498},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799193,"name":"namek beijita","msg":">>2798657
>CNC kitchen
>Not annoying and gay YT personality
Hi Stefan.","attachment":null,"posted":1715613768},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799100
It's compatible, PETG is unaffected by ferric chloride. However, big caveat, most 3D printing filaments have other shit in them and PETG is one of the most inconsistent from one brand to the next. There's no guaranteeing the PETG you've got won't be affected. Only way to know is to test it, but odds are good that it'll be fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1715614008},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799211,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Filament grinding problem was really an extruder grinding problem. Shimmed it up to fix.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715617216678599.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240513_101137_043.jpg"},"posted":1715617216},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799212,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799211
And installed a dual-z kit with a second stepper motor","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715617286942785.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240513_114938_953.jpg"},"posted":1715617286},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799273,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799211
Nope, still not fixed. Fuck this shit. 3d printing is ass, what a waste of time","attachment":null,"posted":1715628306},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799278,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799211
get rid of that thing and mount a direct drive instead","attachment":null,"posted":1715629738},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799279,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799273
oh and make sure to tune the tension on the extruder spring","attachment":null,"posted":1715629807},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799312,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799130
A thin film heater with uniform thickness will inherit the flatness of the glass below it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715634490},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799318,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797875
>>2798052
You bit off more than you could chew.
Stop making it seem like it's not something directly due to your actions.
It's not inherent to you.
But making stupid decisions are.
Executively stupid decisions.","attachment":null,"posted":1715635368},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799331,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">BambuStudio updates
>Lots of good new features
>Fans now max out every time a print starts and have to be manually lowered","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715638215502851.webm","filename":"1702348355266030.webm"},"posted":1715638215},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799162
the link","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715642838412941.png","filename":"2024-05-14--09-25-45.png"},"posted":1715642838},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799369,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799211
I recently solved my bowden issue, you can too.
-those gears suck; need rounded contour for the filament to sit in
-anyhting that doesnt have two gears driving the filament; sucks
-filament doesnt like being curved. The way it comes off the roll (coil, with ~150mm diameter) is the path of least resistance, if you put it through a bowden that bends it in the opposite direction, or rotates it axially, smaller diameter curves, etc, or pretty much anything else aside from its free-hanging spiral.... it will resist.
-- There is a small sharp angle where the filament comes down ftrom the roll and has to turn into the extruder: major resistance.
-- it then gets pushed through that convoluted, small radius curves, bowden tube which also has zip ties adding small points of increased resistance
Ditch the bowden bullshit and find a way to get a direct drive extruder onto that rig and you will be instantly much happier.
Trust me.
I had a bowden setup for years, every day the filament would snap at the extruder... just snap due to temperature change as the sun came up every day... (old pla). Often I would find that the entire lenght of the (smoothly arching curve) bowden tube was filled with 1-2" lenghts of shattered filament.. thats how bad the brittleness was.
Every fucking day this shit pissed me off.
Finally frankensteined a direct extruder to it. Glorious success.","attachment":null,"posted":1715643754},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799370,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799362
>the link
Imagine if one could simply google "st922".","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715643894887930.jpg","filename":"1699874315789194.jpg"},"posted":1715643894},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799371,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799370
imagine not being able to even conceive that what is clearly not silica gel is only being referred to that way because chinglish/translation.
Its a silicone based thermally conductive adhesive paste.
Not a crystalline silica moisture absorbent.
OBVIOUSLY.
Look at the product photos, read how its used.
What are you? babbys first A.I.? Or sematically-fixated sperglord?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715644368293814.jpg","filename":"S1fc545847b964924bdad7a3e24928940I.jpg"},"posted":1715644368},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799372,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799371
Be a faggot and reap what you sow. I tried.","attachment":null,"posted":1715644877},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799372
>reaps a simple fix for a few nozzles that leak
fuckyeah boiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii","attachment":null,"posted":1715646339},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I hope there is no adverse consequences from this
I refuse to spend another $50 for a box that gets hot","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715648798836885.jpg","filename":"20240513_210347.jpg"},"posted":1715648798},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799395,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799385
Did you just escape >>2792179?","attachment":null,"posted":1715650047},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799401,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799385
nice
as long as the temperature management is accurate it should be perfect. Do you know how often the controller polls/adjusts temperature?
If it was near my 3dprinter I would be tempted to use a spare thermistor to graph its actual temperature.
Just maybe put the filament in something to protect it from any possibility of dust/debris falling/floating onto it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715650623},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799401
one potential catch i can see is that the thermistor in the kiln may not be very accurate at the low temps you will be using.
Is 60C *ever* used in a kiln?","attachment":null,"posted":1715650809},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799401
>>2799403
It's an electric smoker, meant to control temps as low as 100f.
IDK how exactly accurate the temp sensor is but it's PID tuning is decent enough to keep within 5f of target, spool is reasonably close to the sensor.
I mostly worry about residue from grease burning off but I haven't seen any smoke since I pre heated it so it's probably fine","attachment":null,"posted":1715651762},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799410
>smoker
oh... ok
yeah grease is likely to be an issue
isnt there some kind of spray-on caustic cleaner you could use to get the big goopy bits off?
would the smoker tolerate being hosed out? pressure washed? otherwise its all by hand, so probably wont happen.
Still, should work ok as-is. Some kind of ventilated box, or fiberless heat resistant fabric wrap for the filament might be a good idea though.","attachment":null,"posted":1715652535},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799414,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799410
probably very inefficient for small batches of rolls though
a power monitor attached to it might be insightful
at some point the maintenance of filament becomes untenable","attachment":null,"posted":1715652710},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799612,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have an Ender 3 V3 SE and I’ve been using these 2-sided beds, one holographic and the other PEI. Do I need to calibrate every time I switch sides? Because I did an automatic calibration for both sides and the results were slightly different. I wanted to know if it’s normal and not necessary to calibrate for use","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715706344336710.jpg","filename":"download (9).jpg"},"posted":1715706344},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799725,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799612
Does taking the bed off and putting it back on again the same way make the calibration any less different?","attachment":null,"posted":1715724080},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799751,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799612
calibrate... what?
lets assume you mean bed mesh/nozzle height:
-it doesnt magically change thickness by flipping it
-the surface texture should have no significant impact on any calibration
-it SHOULD be perfectly flat from corner to corner in all directions, but its possible its a smidge thicker on one edge/corner, so putting it in flipped may result in a sliiiiiiightly different calibration. Even if true; this should not significantly effect your nozzle adjustment
It's possible you are failing to see that he difference is in microns, and not very many of them.
Or there is some grains of grit under the plate.
But most likely is that springsteel sheets are almost always slightly concave/convex depending on which side is up. The magnet on the hotplate usually pulls this into equilibrium with the edges, but is never going to be utterly perfect.
...so again; you are probably seeing a difference that is less than a very thin layer - like 0.1mm or less. Which is essentially irrelevant to your ability to print things.
TL;DR: flipping it shouldnt matter enough to make a difference. So you shouldnt need to recalibrate nozzle height every time. But its trivial to do a bed mesh at the start of each print, so if your OCD is really bad just do a bed mesh calibrate at every print start.","attachment":null,"posted":1715727413},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799781,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799751
oh ok thanks, it was the option leveling.
I thought that the difference between the numbers had a greater impact.","attachment":null,"posted":1715731515},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799802,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798738
>I'm a klippergay
ok bud","attachment":null,"posted":1715734846},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799819,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799781
well its hard to know, because the terms you are using to describe what 'leveling' you are talking about are completely vague and could be a number of things... and you havent shown us any of the actual numbers.
y'know... the basic information that is your responsibility to supply when asking for remote help.
>>2799802
UNlike homosexuality; you should try klipper before you assume the outdated thing you already use is better and therefore worth fanboying over.","attachment":null,"posted":1715737383},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What should I do about this stuff?
I've tried sanding paper","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715749882413889.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240515_120955_065.jpg"},"posted":1715749882},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799876,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799873
man, its like you guys are just trolling us.
Stop trying to make us guess wtf is even happening in the photos and supply some useful information, or more context photos... ffs
>inb4 'try lern2 3dprint'","attachment":null,"posted":1715750624},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799879,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799876
I took off the support from the print and it left that residue and I don't know how to go about cleaning it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715751008},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799880,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799879
is that part of the support? Or is it part of the print?
Generally you try to get a small, sharp screwdriver in between the print and the support, and lever it gently in a bunch of places so the support pops off.
If that is support material you may be able to do that still.
Or get a large diamond file and try to remove it like that.
When I print something like that I usually start doing test prints of just that section... like boolean it off the rest of the print and isolate it... then do test prints to find out what support parameters work best. Or in this case; least bad.
Are you sure you cant print the model in some other orientation where the support isnt stupid gnarly?
(Show us what you are printing ffs)","attachment":null,"posted":1715751596},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799893,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799879
For this one just sand it. For the next time you print with supports, fix your slicer settings.","attachment":null,"posted":1715758170},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799893
I think I'll try sanding it but with the drill and that little disk adapter maybe that'll work.
I just used the default creality slicer support.","attachment":null,"posted":1715761015},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799873
Scrape it with a craft knife, or maybe use files. Fine stringing can be removed with a lighter, but I think your residue is too thick for that to work. Sanding is only really viable for small amounts of material removal on a 3D print since the plastic gums the sandpaper up, YMMV. Consider filler.","attachment":null,"posted":1715766872},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799922,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799913
I'm going to print it again with tree supports this time. I chipped a part of the piece by accident anyways.","attachment":null,"posted":1715769376},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799922
can you show us the model?
ive been leveling up on my support mastery a bit lately","attachment":null,"posted":1715769641},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799926,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799612
Probably because PEI is more bumpy so if it sits face down it will elevate the top facing smooth side. Bed mesh probably stays pretty much the same just ajust z-offset.
That being said doesn't the Ender V3 do load cell z-offset anyway?","attachment":null,"posted":1715769712},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Intending to get the cheapest chinkshit printer possible that will actually work (with a couple of tweaks on my end if needed), I'll only be printing silly little things every month or so rather than making it a hobby.
I've seen the EasyThreed ones reviewed as "surprisingly functional for the price" (I think the K9 is the popular one), any more reliable suggestions?","attachment":null,"posted":1715777396},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799946,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799898
It looks like the supports aren't really supporting the print properly. Either they are somehow too far from the print or for some reason your extruded filament isn't getting laid down properly. Might also be not enough cooling so the filament is getting dragged along the nozzle instead of staying in place. Pic related is how it should look, the lines are pretty far from eachother but it's clean and nothing is hanging. Try using different slicer, like orca and check cooling.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715777560657527.jpg","filename":"print.jpg"},"posted":1715777560},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2799963,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My room hovers around 45% humidity. How quickly do I need to use my PLA if I'm just leaving it out?","attachment":null,"posted":1715780473},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800037,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799279
Thank you very much, I overtightened the tension when reassembling after cleaning the extruder. Appears fixed 30min into a print.","attachment":null,"posted":1715797476},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800044,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799369
Appreciate the experience, thanks. Will add a dual gear direct drive onto the list. Hopefully the plug and play creality one is ok.
>$300 modded Ender 3 FML","attachment":null,"posted":1715798467},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800178,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Question, I am rtunning V6 hotend on my ender 3, and other printers, however my ender 3 appears to like to piss me off
>filament started leaking on top of heater block
>stopped using printer for m onths because of this
>have 4 other printers
>decided to fix ender 3 and get it running
>do 3-4 prints
>clogs and leaks filament on top of heater block
I am confused, my 2 other printers using V6 hotends are perfectly fine for the past 2 years
so my question is, is there v6 style hotend or what hotend would I need to stop fucking around with heatbreak and nozzle pressed against each other tightening it, heating it up to tighten it again, and just have it fail again.","attachment":null,"posted":1715819972},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800188,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800044
NOte that even with direct drive, it is useful to feed the filament through ptfe tubes. This helps keeping the bends in nice large radius curves, and less grit gets attracted to the filament.
Just make sure the feed tube you get has a 3 or 4mm hole in it, not the tight 2mm that are normally used for bowden setups.
Bigger hole, less friction, but all the same curve softening properties.","attachment":null,"posted":1715820685},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Well, I did it. I printed a shitty face frame for this shitty little bookshelf.
18g brad nailer works fine through PLA. You just have to make sure there are enough layers on the surface you're nailing through. 2.4mm of top layer was enough to prevent shattering.
I know it looks like shit. And don't make fun of my books.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715823416336477.jpg","filename":"shelf.jpg"},"posted":1715823416},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800178
loctite","attachment":null,"posted":1715823676},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800211,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800207
This is fucking bizarre. Good job, anon.","attachment":null,"posted":1715823787},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800212,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800207
what's the point of that, just to hide the shitty edge of the plywood? i'd probably have gotten some timber strips instead of green plastic, but sure it does the job.
your books look unironically good, if you've actually read them you're probably pretty based
not like i'd know, i don't read.","attachment":null,"posted":1715823894},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800213,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800207
Where is "12 rules for life" by Dr. Jordan B Peterson, clinical psychologist?","attachment":null,"posted":1715824208},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800218,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800212
Yeah, it's to hide the end grain -- this is normally done with hardwood, as you say, but I didn't feel like buying any and I wanted to see if I could make this work. I won't be doing it again.
>>2800213
It's on the larger shelf below it, right next to "The SAS Fighting Techniques Handbook".","attachment":null,"posted":1715825910},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800234,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone know of any good joining methods for 3d prints? What im making is similar to one of those dog cones. Printed flat, and joins together at both ends. Want it to be pretty user friendly and want to make sure it wont come undone. Almost thinking of doing a pause print to add bra strap hooks. Maybe some type of snap button. The cheaper and easier the better. The product is for women so I dont think i can do dovetail type slide joints. Adhesives are also not ruled out.
This is the first product I have thought about designing for women and they love cute shit, but you do it wrong and they fucking hate it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715828383},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800256,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800207
I don't get the negativity. Looks interesting and could certainly work for a full shelf wall.","attachment":null,"posted":1715831618},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800234
May i ask what you're trying to sell? Seems weird to me jumping straight to product without ironing hows first.
That said, superglue or acetone are the usual ones. Use stubs for mor surface area.","attachment":null,"posted":1715832156},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800285,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800261
Im making sleeves for cups. Theres a little more too it, but thats basically it. Needs to look good, and feel good. My first prototype turned out looking like absolute shit so maybe its not doable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715835653},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800287,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800285
>sleeves for cups
So you're building a knitting machine? Jokes aside i really don't get this one. Are you trying to connect TPU to other stuff? In that case just heat might be proportional better than acetone.","attachment":null,"posted":1715836396},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800296,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800287
So the plan was to take those paper sleeves they put on hot coffee and sell "premium" cute sleeves that are reusable. I think its mostly a dead end so far as there isn't a lot of mechanical adhesion. Could maybe try TPU cats or dogs, or hearts etc. Havent even asked a woman yet if it would be cute or not. Its probably out of my wheelhouse. Leave it up to a woman to make the design, and me to do the manufacturing. I cant do both so scrapping this idea I think.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715837960801999.jpg","filename":"catcup.jpg"},"posted":1715837960},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800296
These would be laser cut too and have a wider band than shown with maybe some better spacing and design, but I dont think you can get that Tulle material to look good easily. Women would not be happy. First pause print though so that was cool. New 3d printing skill unlocked.","attachment":null,"posted":1715838128},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800332,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">1kg of PETG net weight
>reel is 250g of PS
Why do they do it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715857013},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800356,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800332
I've started documenting my spool weights recently. Now that its so trivial to switch filaments on this direct extruder its really useful to know exactly how much filament is left.
My latest orders of pla and petg both have 193g spools.
I havent finished a cardboard spool yet, but that should be extremely light.","attachment":null,"posted":1715862390},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800332
You could just order refills.","attachment":null,"posted":1715872274},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800454,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"400/95/9
Time to call it.
>2800453
>>2800453
>>>2800453
You know what it is.
>2800453
>>2800453
>>>2800453
>2800453
>>2800453
>>>2800453
New bread, got going.
>2800453
>>2800453
>>>2800453","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715879825512848.png","filename":"collage20240516110412.png"},"posted":1715879825},{"board":"diy","thread":2793796,"pid":2800916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797981
it's called draw view","attachment":null,"posted":1715980048}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794767,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Lads I'm a clueless shitposter boomer that through sheer persistence managed to pull a job interview next week for a plumber assistant position. How do I increase my chances of getting hired?
I'm a /fit/izen so I'm in pretty good shape and have a tiny bit of diy experience but that's it. Really shitty memory btw.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714675079836399.jpg","filename":"plumber.jpg"},"posted":1714675079},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794768,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"shit flows downhill","attachment":null,"posted":1714675296},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794768
That's the kind of tip that will get me promoted, I'm looking to get hired though.","attachment":null,"posted":1714679454},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794786,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794784
You’re probably retarded. You’re middle aged interviewing for an apprentice position and you post here asking retarded questions. Highlight the fact that you don’t have a wife or girlfriend, no kids, no drug problems, own an alarm clock and reliable transportation to work. An actual monkey could be a plumbers apprentice, they just want to be sure you’ll show up and not be drunk/high/committing DV","attachment":null,"posted":1714679645},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794793,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794786
Good to know. I'm retarded in the sense of being pretty lazy and not wanting to be a slave to (((them))) but otherwise I consider myself to have decent common sense.
I guess I'll make sure to highlight the points you have just mentioned and my willingness to learn.","attachment":null,"posted":1714680972},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794797,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
Lol dumbass finally realised lifting heavy weights is a useless excercise and that a man actually has to provide value to society
>>2794768
Not completely true. I was a surveyors assistant for a company and our job was to collect data points of a small towns whole drainage system. We found that on many occasions the water was flowing up hill and was still draining properly.","attachment":null,"posted":1714681913},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794844,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794797
Fatty","attachment":null,"posted":1714690279},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794857,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794797
>We found that on many occasions the water was flowing up hill
no no no and fucking no. just stop. that doesn't even work on a flat earth or whatever nonsense that has wormed its way into your noodle head.","attachment":null,"posted":1714692304},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794861,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
>Lads I'm a clueless shitposter boomer
doubt","attachment":null,"posted":1714692645},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794768
>shit flows downhill
Hot on the left","attachment":null,"posted":1714693482},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794868,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794857
doesn't know about the nile...","attachment":null,"posted":1714693650},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794885,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794861
30yo boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1714695253},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2794897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794885
Boomers aren't 30. Most are over twice that. You are indeed clueless though.","attachment":null,"posted":1714697370},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795225,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794857
If there's enough pressure behind it and the outlet is lower than the inlet then it will indeed flow uphill it's pretty kooky brother","attachment":null,"posted":1714775758},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795230,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just be honest about what you know OP. They probably don't expect much but will have you driving to the store to get parts or digging holes or snaking drains to start. If you lie about your experience they will find out immediately when you're sent to do something by yourself and fuck it up.
Compression lines don't have to be tighter than hell, finger tighten then give it maybe a half turn with your wrench. Drains you will want to tighten with wrenches until you can't get more out of it then test with hot and cold water for longer than you think you need to.","attachment":null,"posted":1714776375},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795333,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794897
as part of the evolving culture war demoralization meme, "boomers" are now anyone over the age of 21 bruh","attachment":null,"posted":1714796236},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795350,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795333
Nah, you're just illiterate and unable to value precise meaning, but public school is to blame for that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714805282},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795350
>it doesn't mean that because I say so
okay boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1714815311},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795381,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794844
Bigger than you","attachment":null,"posted":1714818274},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795382,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794897
lurk more","attachment":null,"posted":1714818647},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795396,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794864
Payday's Thursday.
The plumbing trifecta of knowledge.","attachment":null,"posted":1714822898},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
dress like Mario and Luigi","attachment":null,"posted":1714829673},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795423,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795381
>Bigger than you
Yes. You're a big guy indeed.
>t.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714830380636812.jpg","filename":"fat_people.jpg"},"posted":1714830380},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
>I work for free for 1 week to learn the things and all","attachment":null,"posted":1714830926},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2795566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795423
HER HER HER HER HER","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714854136781804.jpg","filename":"images - 2024-05-05T062158.171.jpg"},"posted":1714854136},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796087,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
learn the names of tools. it's only a few, but being able to grab the right thing when asked really helps.
also, when you're handing things, pay attention to WHAT the guy you're helping is doing and WHY he's doing it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714958282},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796088,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794857
it does if there's pressure on the line.","attachment":null,"posted":1714958353},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796089,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794868
the nile is downhill, it's just headed north downhill, because the elevated source is to the south and the sea is north. dumbass flat earth.","attachment":null,"posted":1714958422},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796098,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794868
>05/02/24(Thu)18:47:30
>>2796089
>05/05/24(Sun)20:20:22
Over three days...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714959363915388.jpg","filename":"4e5.jpg"},"posted":1714959363},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You will be running back and forth, doing all the grunt work. Better get your hep shots because you gun covered in shit","attachment":null,"posted":1714960955},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796151,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
show up with a bunch of butchered lumber","attachment":null,"posted":1714967778},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795381
Being a fat ass tends to add girth.","attachment":null,"posted":1714968020},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796308,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796087
>learn the names of tools.
I know that as I own a bunch of them.
Doesn't matter though because I didn't get the job, turns out recruiters don't like when you have lots of hiatus on your cv.
Also applied to a position help assembling windows and another to help installing PVC pipes, I missed a call from the former and they didn't call me again and the later has not even yet replied to my email.
I too applied to a beaner fruit picking job but they just texted me to say I didn't get it either.
Depressing as hell, if I don't get hired soon I'll apply for benefits and go on the dole lmao. Food stamps might be a better option than looking for a job every day only to get kicked on the face by employers.","attachment":null,"posted":1715010553},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794868
No river flows uphill.","attachment":null,"posted":1715033347},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794767
>watch Drain Cleaning Australia
>show up with that guys attitude
>profit","attachment":null,"posted":1715038592},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796558,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796484","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715046513914649.jpg","filename":"Mississippi vs Nile River.jpg"},"posted":1715046513},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796630,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You're a clueless fat motherfucker that's what","attachment":null,"posted":1715071708},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796708,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Fuck yeah bros got myself a construction job.","attachment":null,"posted":1715099728},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796710,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796708
You won't succeed","attachment":null,"posted":1715099864},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796716,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795225
>>2796088
Pressure? In a drainage system?","attachment":null,"posted":1715100728},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796721,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796716
>Pressure? In a drainage system?
Summary:
anon says he once observed water flowing uphill.
another anon calls him out on his bullshit
various anons chime in clearly talking about water constrained in pipes being fed by pumps or by gravity; in no way does any of this constitute water "flowing uphill" in any intelligent sense
you are here now. continue at your peril; be forewarned that idiot autists are never wrong and have never been wrong, and won't be wrong in this case, because water actually does flow uphill in their world.","attachment":null,"posted":1715101464},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796727,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796710","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715102606305386.jpg","filename":"may-the-good-luck-be-with-you-v0-ynn23k7z18da1.jpg"},"posted":1715102606},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796739,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796109
I was the only person at my company who had hep shots. Previous job made me get them to occasionally plunge a factory toilet. Resi plumber job sent apprentices in shit covered crawlspaces crawling over maggots kek","attachment":null,"posted":1715105731},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2796814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796716
It can happen...","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715120255036565.webm","filename":"1703756182694190.webm"},"posted":1715120255},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2797583,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795396
High level vents, low level drains","attachment":null,"posted":1715285624},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2797588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796558
That's not uphill, that's just north. It flows north towards a point lower in elevation than its source","attachment":null,"posted":1715286038},{"board":"diy","thread":2794767,"pid":2799246,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794797
>water was flowing up hill and was still draining properly
Hows about you keep that factoid to yourself on your next interview","attachment":null,"posted":1715624095}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2794557,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"any melanated fellers here who do hobby machining in an apartment?
ever get noise complaints? tips on minimizing noise through walls?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714624531676923.jpg","filename":"494d8e613023b8e1b9511e734e9f9702079383f8.jpg"},"posted":1714624531},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2794562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
Not I but machining isn't normally very loud. I've a lathe and a Bridgeport round ram fossil in my shipping container shop and it's not loud there or in my bros shop. Were they inside my house I'd not be bothered as they're neither very low nor high frequency.
I suggest playing music etc at a modest level so as not to arouse crazies. You can dampen mills and small lathes easily for example by placing horse stall matting beneath or using any of many (see machining fora) vibration damping mounts between base and floor.
You can and I do fab mobile mounts for all my tools and for an apartment I would use scaffolding casters mounted to steel angle and flat bar dollies of your preference. My mill and lathe dollies are outriggers which bolt to bases I fabbed since when I did those I used industrial bolt-on casters. Had I known the glories of scaffold casters I'd have used them instead as they slide into simple sections of tubing. My industrial air compressors and various other items are fitted to take these and if you double the mounts you can use scaffold jacks etc to level your equipment.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JDZO2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I gotta sleep but if this thread is up tomorrow I'll brain dump my various solutions which suit apartment and other conventional indoor wrenching and machining because it's a specific interest of mine. I make everything mobile because my back is destroyed and I want to have fun for my remaining crippled years.","attachment":null,"posted":1714626347},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2794574,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794557
I ran a 3d printing farm in an apartment.
What I did was cut out the bottom of a large Amazon box and just made it look like I had several large packages on a wire shelf when walking by the apartment or when people came inside I had a large plastic tote, the ones with a yellow and black coloring to hide a fila-dryer and the filament rolls drilled holes to sneak filament from the bin under the Amazon boxes
Printers were prusa mk3s+ so direct drive and no ptfe tubes to worry about…
I broke up with that girl awhile ago though","attachment":null,"posted":1714627435},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2794612,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794574
Slick camo method^!
Attractive curtains with blackout curtains behind them are another option and office partitions with the outboard side decorated with comfy shit could conceal machinery. Large cardboard boxes can be had from chain stores for the asking (I use them to lie on when wrenching outdoors and on concrete slabs)
to conceal items on their way inside the apartment.
I used horse stall mats to protect my home tile floors from my weight set (they are now removable outdoor pavers covering my water and power run to my garage) and if you place them atop a stout tarp can protect the floor from dropped metal, tools and drippings. Keeping your security deposit will likely require the most effort. My in-house tools live in surplus Lionville medication carts which are insanely expensive new but cheap used like much medical equipment surplus and are build superbly with display arms, space for battery backup and space for SFF PCs plus plenty of useful sized drawers which would be great for tooling.
Unlike steel tool boxes hospital equipment is QUIET in use, has smooth plastic exterior surfaces kinder to woodwork and has non-marring casters. Of course it's easy to clean. They suit machine shop measuring tools and bits etc nicely and the drawers are in removable caddies so nothing can stick a drawer shut. I have three and want more.
Hoyer lifts are cheap used. I use them for motorcycle engines but they're fine indoors having non-marring casters, fit thru standard doorways, and the legs are adjustable width for stability. They're fine for lifting electric motors and heavy mill vises.
I like industrial plastic carts which don't snag like sheet metal carts, weigh little and work well indoors and don't mar floors. Their sides keep items from rolling off and organize what's on top (for me that's carb parts, motorbike engine parts etc).
I would avoid noisy grinding where practical or do it outdoors.","attachment":null,"posted":1714641160},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2794616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Welding, grinding, sawing etc are messy and best done outdoors. If OP owns a van or box truck or trailer nasty shit can live in there to help fab and mod shop equipment.
used U-boat dolly carts as used for frozen food are light, strong and narrow. I remove the center non-pivoting axle bolts so I can push mine in any direction inside my shop.
Everyone needs at least one Rigid or similar tristand. I mount a bench vise to some plate welded to a couple feet of 2" tubing then clamp that in the tristand chain vise so I can rotate my bench vise 360 degrees. Tristands are highly stable and fold for easy storage, making them ideal for indoor vise support and for outdoor use when fabbing. They're best bought used.
Chip cleanup is THE major hassle when machining. I haven't had to figure out how to silence a shop vac but bounce house fans are quiet (I use them for forced air around my shops) and move plenty of air. I would experiment with one. A large rolling plastic trash can with lid could store chips and light scrap indoors and be easily wheeled out to your vehicle for dump trips. Alternate options could be plastic trash bags in thicc cardboard boxes to discreetly dispose of chips. They're sharp and a major hassle if they get into carpet or upholstery. I would have some stout fucking magnets and whatever else you can invent to clean up.
I'd use water-based coolant and not much of that. If you have a steel work table it should ideally have a stainless tray to keep shit off the floor. I scored two custom trays from a bro but stainless restaurant equipment has all sorts of slick trays and tubs. I collect steam table tubs for general shop use.
Degreasing can be done with safe cleaners like simple green, pine-sol (I use undiluted for cleaning carbs which I soak in stainless tubs, covered because it's fragrand) etc. Your shower can be safely used for degreasing as can your tub without leaving residue. Plastic carts are safe inside bathrooms and won't bust tile or formica.","attachment":null,"posted":1714642322},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2796244,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
The Jew fears the Apartment Machinist","attachment":null,"posted":1715001849},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2796445,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
Well you can get sound absorbing material to put on the ceiling and wall. That can reduce the sound. Just make sure your operating the machine in the standard operating hours for your area. Usually 9am to 7pm.","attachment":null,"posted":1715029303},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2797831,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Im getting a small carvera air desktop CNC. It is enclosed but I will probably try to either get it on a platform with anti vibration pads, or I will try and build a whole box enclosure with some foam padding or something.
Hopefully my apartment neighbors wont kill me","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715339374497851.png","filename":"Screenshot_20240510_130817.png"},"posted":1715339374},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2798284,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
i thought about being this dangerously strange and unapproachable but instead i decided to be so further outside of the city center in a cheaper rented house
it has allowed me to get actual full-sized machine tools (2300 lbs mill and 1100 lbs lathe, 750 lbs bandsaw, 400 lbs drill press) and just absolutely stuff the garage with them, and make it nearly impossible to walk in there
i am still strange and unapproachable but now i can be serious about it","attachment":null,"posted":1715421295},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2798292,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
>>2794562
Correct, machining isnt loud. Cutting with a bandsaw is and so is grinding. Its ok if you only make a few cuts a day.","attachment":null,"posted":1715425762},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2798293,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
BTW, you can soundproof a room to do all your noise but it will be heavy, so it has to be done at a street level. Its not a science, get some foam as thick as a mattress and cover your walls and ceiling. Just beware because flammable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715426008},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2799609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
Just use the machine at 3 am and only for 30 seconds at a time. When neighbors ask say you dont hear anything.","attachment":null,"posted":1715705992},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2799858,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
I think you guys who are saying it's quiet are using bigger machines. my Chinese 7x14 screams like a fucking banshee on anything more than aluminum.","attachment":null,"posted":1715746324},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2799860,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797831
an easy way to cut down on vibrations too is to mount it to something heavy. if you go to a countertop place, they usually sell smaller off cuts for cheap. they work great for desktop stuff like this","attachment":null,"posted":1715746578},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2799866,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2798292
Machining is loud
I would just machine at night and play porn, people would just assume you’re jack hammering some chick super hard","attachment":null,"posted":1715748357},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2800050,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794574
Why would you have to hide your 3d printers in your own apartment??","attachment":null,"posted":1715799574},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2800243,"name":"Sieg","msg":">>2800050
I had a fuck ton of prusas just mass producing parts it would have had to been zoned commercial","attachment":null,"posted":1715829775},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2801405,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
a dead neigbour wont hear shit to complain about
learn makin coffins","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716076412799337.jpg","filename":"5f0.jpg"},"posted":1716076412},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2801442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799609
I thought I was just hearing The Hum all summer. Fuck.","attachment":null,"posted":1716082209},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2801501,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794557
In a vague and minor sense yes because I have a 3d printer and power tools, but there's enough construction and renovation that any noise complaint wouldn't be isolated to myself.
Your equipment will be transmitting most of its noise through the floor anyway, so ways to decouple it, create additional dead space or add more acoustic mass would be ideal.
I would suggest just keeping it to reasonable hours, durations and days.","attachment":null,"posted":1716097019},{"board":"diy","thread":2794557,"pid":2802734,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799866
Arent you that fat retard","attachment":null,"posted":1716328258}]}
{"title":"/SQTDDTOT/ Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread.","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Use this thread to ask questions you think don't require a thread of their own.
The old thread no longer bumps: >>2789553
If you didn't get a response in the old thread, feel free to ask again here.
(except the guy with the 15A outlet on a 20A fuse)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714694113257741.jpg","filename":"SQTDDTOT.jpg"},"posted":1714694113},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794880,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794873
If it takes 1 hour to cook a batch of cookies and Cookiemonster has 15 ovens, working 24 hours a day, every day for 5 years, how long does it take Cookiemonster to make 6 million batches of cookies?
Each cookie oven also has doors made of wood.","attachment":null,"posted":1714694681},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794880
Trick question. Cookie monster can’t leave his trash can?
It only takes 10 minutes to bake a cookie.
Also, they use conveyer belt ovens so they just one long oven.
There are no doors, there is just these silicone flaps when they go in thru they conveyer belt.","attachment":null,"posted":1714696392},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794904,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794890
Wtf Cookie Monster don’t live in no trash can you’re thinking of Oscar the grouch dumb fuck","attachment":null,"posted":1714698282},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794930,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
How can I monitor a (industrial) power supply ? Client claims their power is pristine but my machines fail in a way that can only be explained by power supply issues.","attachment":null,"posted":1714701232},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794931,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
>(except the guy with the 15A outlet on a 20A fuse)
Why you gotta call me out like that :(","attachment":null,"posted":1714701250},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794930
>https://www.fluke.com/en-us/products/electrical-testing/power-quality
Lube up your asshole here comes the safety yellow colored dick","attachment":null,"posted":1714704102},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm a crossposter who knows very little about DIY. I'm looking at renovating a basement into a one-bedroom suite. The immediate things I'm looking at are ripping out all the carpet, putting in some kind of hard floor, and installing a kitchenette. No need for remodeling. For the floors, the reno guy I talked to today said I should just get LVP, which is tempting but also I'm concerned about it looking too cheap/shitty.
So, first question is, any immediate thoughts or opinions? And second, any resources I should look at for learning to do the easy bits myself? Even though most obvious resources, I literally do not know where to look other than blindly searching for stuff on youtube (also I tend to prefer reading materials to video)","attachment":null,"posted":1714704759},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794949
>Remove carpet
Pretty straightforward and doable yourself.
>Hard floor
If there's nothing weird under the carpet, this step is also pretty straight forward. I wouldn't do LVP personally because it looks and feels cheap. But if you do decide to do LVP, get the click type. It's stupid easy to do. If you can put two Lego pieces together, you can do this. I'd opt for tile personally but you'd need to hire someone to do it. Hardwood and laminate is not ideal for a basement.
>Kitchenette
Pretty straightforward esp if you get something from IKEA.","attachment":null,"posted":1714708433},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794977,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794880
>Each cookie oven also has doors made of wood.
The oven doors aren't made of wood. That's the prep room where the supplies are kept and the cookies are prepared for the oven.
BTW: Cookiemonster was never able to gather enough supplies to make 6 million batches of cookies. That's just a (((Sesame Street))) dream.","attachment":null,"posted":1714712720},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2794987,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794949
i reccomend putting tile in the basement","attachment":null,"posted":1714717791},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795004,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If I plaster over this shit with finish plaster is it then ready paint or will it need a finish layer?
The manufacturer of the finishing stuff says use no primer to smooth out existing granol/stucco and then it’s ready to paint but I’m sceptical.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714723314768971.jpg","filename":"EB0FDCAE-B913-4375-B419-77FF87CD8DD4.jpg"},"posted":1714723314},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I will probably marry this gf im dating, and she is frugal and hard working.
The problem is im not.
She always scolds me that i should do everything around the house, like tile the bathroom or tike the roof and similar shit, basically anything and everything. Im a city boy with gentle hands. Will i be able to cope?","attachment":null,"posted":1714729444},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795091,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"do these come apart easily? I finna get this off craigslist but never see them except assembled in front of box stores. How easy is this to break down into pieces to shove under my truck cap or should I figure on getting my trailer out of storage?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714747062861015.jpg","filename":"girl.jpg"},"posted":1714747062},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795094,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"how do I diy a child","attachment":null,"posted":1714747574},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795096,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795094
1. marry trad wife
2. caulk gun until cracks filled
3. let her bake
4. ???
5. profit","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714747684641126.png","filename":"anon babies.png"},"posted":1714747684},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795029
let someone who deserves her have her. Apparently you do not.","attachment":null,"posted":1714748133},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795100,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795029
1. buy a nicer house that doesn't need all that shit done","attachment":null,"posted":1714748577},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795103,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795091
assembly/disassembly is simple but may be time-consuming","attachment":null,"posted":1714749002},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794890
>>2794904
And the trash can has a basement. Wouldn't be surprised if that basement had access to tunnels.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714749587322789.jpg","filename":"InsideOscarCan.jpg"},"posted":1714749587},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795103
elaborate? assembly not a problem I'll do that at home with full tools.","attachment":null,"posted":1714751970},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795114,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795091
What's the Searx button. It can't be the search engine.","attachment":null,"posted":1714753701},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795116,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm a newfag when it comes to thus stuff so bear with me. I had my bathroom redone yesterday. They recommended LVP flooring, the installer said it wasn't a great idea but we were already committed. Overall I don't love it and plan to replace it in a year or so. I noticed a bit of flexing by the shower. Enough that the caulking has split. What's the solution here? I can't afford to redo everything right now.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714753854432286.jpg","filename":"20240503_095934.jpg"},"posted":1714753854},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795121,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795114
Yeah there are 10,000k videos about how to take the grill bit off and/ or clean the grill bit and FUCKING ZERO about how the whole unit is assembled. Go ahead, prove me wrong faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1714754637},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795122,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795004
Buy paint with primer dilemma no longer exists. But yeah paint on mud is fine with no primer no reason to believe this product makes Jose job harder, nobody would buy it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714754783},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795127,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795122
>But yeah paint on mud is fine with no primer
eggshell or other paint with a sheen will look like pure shit on bare sheetrock mud, and some paints will literally peel off in sheets if a bit comes loose. any flat latex paint works fine for a first coat; no need to use an actual primer unless you have some you want to use up.","attachment":null,"posted":1714755454},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795109
It's been assembled and used.
Nuts and bolts may be rusty.
Parts may be 'glued' together with grease.
Other unforeseen problems may arise.","attachment":null,"posted":1714761496},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795116
>What's the solution here?
get a tube of matching caulk
squeeze fresh caulk into crack
swipe soapy finger over fresh caulk to smooth into crack
how hard can that be ¯\\_(ツ)_/¯","attachment":null,"posted":1714761718},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795162,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795121
just lay it flat retard, or take the flat cover off of your truck since it's obviously in your way, stopping you from carrying a simple item that would otherwise fit in the vehicle you bought to carry large items.","attachment":null,"posted":1714762991},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795165,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795116
More caulk. Get one for areas with flex.","attachment":null,"posted":1714763219},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794930
If you build machines and can't figure it out yourself...your machines are definitely the problem.","attachment":null,"posted":1714763702},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795162
I have a trailer for that retard, I'm trying to evaluate which is a bigger pain in the ass, a few rusty greasy bolts or driving to my storage spot.","attachment":null,"posted":1714765710},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795183,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795180
What do you hate more, learning how to disassemble/reassemble it and then disassembling/reassembling or just getting your trailer?","attachment":null,"posted":1714766032},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795207,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So I drilled into a wall to hang up a peg board and found something.
Drilling was tough at first, then I hit something hard for a bit, then it suddenly became like drilling soft chalk until I "pushed through" into a cavity.
I asked an Architect and he told me we often construct homes from something called "Thermal Brick".
Could something like this ever hold a desk? Or even shelves? It's so weirdly crumbly","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714770923395939.jpg","filename":"20240503_153915.jpg"},"posted":1714770923},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795208,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795207
That’s cocaine. You might have bought Escobar’s fabled blow abode.","attachment":null,"posted":1714771514},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795209,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795180
so wait, you bought a truck, covered up the storage part of it, then bought a trailer and a place to store the trailer that's far away from you, and then you need to use all of these things to carry one item, when you could have just not covered up your truck's bed? Sounds like you got some shit to sort out.","attachment":null,"posted":1714772075},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795214,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My dad had a plastic bottle, it has Japanese text on it which says powder coupling
The bottle is full of powder and it's very heavy
What is this?","attachment":null,"posted":1714772859},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795209
well I've had the truck cap on it for 10 years and used the dry secure storage it provides dozens of times and never once come across a situation where it made sense to pull it even temporarily, I'd say yes I've got my shit pretty sorted m8.","attachment":null,"posted":1714773948},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795220,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795214
sex sand. it's like lube but makes things less slippery for after she has a kid (You) or is just a gusher.","attachment":null,"posted":1714774202},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795222,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"The screw holding my curtain rail up has come loose. It won't go back in.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714774961061179.png","filename":"curtain.png"},"posted":1714774961},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795159
>>2795165
I've never caulked before. Think I can do it? I'm clumsy","attachment":null,"posted":1714776271},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795231,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795091
you dont if you value your time, you put it on the back of a truck or use a rape van, uhaul rentals are cheap","attachment":null,"posted":1714776492},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795233,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I installed a floor outlet today and used some spray foam to fill in the gap between the outlet box and the floor. A bit got into the outlet box itself and I did my best to remove the majority of it from the box but there's a smidge tacked on to bits of the sides of the box that would require I cut the power to take the entire thing apart and scrub it. Should I be concerned about a potential fire hazard? I know there's a big thing where people recommend filling the insides with fire block only to be told by others that this a massive code violation but I don't know what amount constitutes between that and "you literally sprayed foam inside the entire box".","attachment":null,"posted":1714777252},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795234,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795228
Yes. It’s super easy, and if you fuck up, you can wipe it off with some water while still wet, or peel/scrape it very easily when dry.
>>2795233
Isn’t that stuff all fireproof and non-conductive? If so, I wouldn’t worry.","attachment":null,"posted":1714777639},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795235,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795234
It's non conductive but not non flammable. The way I understand fireblock foam is that it exists in the context of sealing gaps for airflow to feed a fire and is in no way less flammable than any other foam.","attachment":null,"posted":1714777885},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795237,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795234
Will do. I've built computers so it shouldn't be that hard.","attachment":null,"posted":1714779069},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795244,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795222
Builders and other lazy bastards will often drill stuff like that straight into drywall. If there is no stud behind it, put an anchor in the hole and then put the screw into the anchor","attachment":null,"posted":1714780480},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795306,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795244
Just a tip, make it a concave seal not a convex one. It's stronger that way. Look up tutorials by Charlie DIYte on YouTube.","attachment":null,"posted":1714791167},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795322,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
>Wet-Ass Sandwiches
idk why that makes me laugh","attachment":null,"posted":1714793747},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795325,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794977
I feel like the entire basis that big bird gave to occupy Sesame Street over what Cookie Monster did might have not been truthful
But big bird always just immediately calls anyone anti-avian whenever we question his bold and seemingly untruthful claims","attachment":null,"posted":1714794444},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795327,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have this playhouse in the backyard. Previous owners built it. There's a slide on it, and that's the only reason the kids go near it. The other 99.999% of the time all it does is attract ungodly amounts of wasps and bird crap. What advice would you have for how I can dismantle this playhouse piece by piece and what tools will I need?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714795024860682.jpg","filename":"playhouse.jpg"},"posted":1714795024},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795335,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
one of my coworkers gave me a dude wipe. He has the newest apple watch despite being horribly in debt. I dont think he has a hoverboard, but I know hes got an electric skateboard. so I actually know the type of person who buys this bullshit","attachment":null,"posted":1714797129},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795336,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795327
put it for salr on cuckbook. there's garden shed moving services that'll haul it away for them","attachment":null,"posted":1714797286},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795398,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795169
I don't build them, I deploy them. The fucks in the design team couldn't be bothered with one client's shitty supply when they could spend their time inventing fake tasks to justify their salary.","attachment":null,"posted":1714823165},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795404,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795398
>, I deploy them. The fucks in the design team couldn't be bothered with one client's shitty supply when they could spend their time inventing fake tasks to justify their salary.
slow minded installation tech cope and seethe cuz he too stupid to do creative work.","attachment":null,"posted":1714825497},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795410,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've got this exact set of speakers for my computer setup, but I'm rearranging my desk completely.
Would it be a bad idea to take apart the small speakers and making a custom MDF housing for them (mainly, to attach them to my monitor... Essentially a soundbar)
Or will they just sound bad bc of audio-related stuff?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714828285945570.jpg","filename":"1714827991377.jpg"},"posted":1714828285},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795417,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795404
No, no. I come from design, but left it because of this gay mindset","attachment":null,"posted":1714829121},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795427,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795335
They think they’re high IQ for some reason","attachment":null,"posted":1714831534},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795431,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795099
This may be true
But i want to better myself so she is happy with me
>>2795100
I have my own apartment, only need to renovate the bathroom, but she will insist we do it ourselves probably
Then we will inherit a huge house from her parents, which is currently in an ok state, but who knows what the time brings
Basically my question is, with a full time job and basically no free time, how do i get better at diy stuff?","attachment":null,"posted":1714832206},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795431
>with a full time job
Lemme guess, 40hours a week?
There's another 128 hours per week you're not utilizing to the maximum...","attachment":null,"posted":1714834299},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795439,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795327
Put it dangerously high in the air on stilts and I guarantee the kids will love it!
Or turn it into a doggy mansion.","attachment":null,"posted":1714834377},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795438
Yes, but i have to travel on weekends
How do i even start, with what, where do i learn, i don't have any tools
That's given i quit some of my side stuff and sleep less","attachment":null,"posted":1714835453},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is laying click PVC as easy as youtube makes it seem?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714836897586987.png","filename":"1698045137132345.png"},"posted":1714836897},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"can I galvanize a bolt if I just melt a bunch of zinc on a stove and submerge the bolt in?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714839736741283.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714839736},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795473,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795472
certainly. that's how it was done in ancient rome.","attachment":null,"posted":1714840259},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795475,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795472
isn't that just going to fuck up your threads and shit when it fuses to your bolt and turns into a ball?
you can do chemical galvanization at home for super cheap, just look it up on youtube.","attachment":null,"posted":1714840692},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795502,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795455
Do you have two arms, two legs, and enough fingers to hold something? Then yeah it is as easy as it seems.","attachment":null,"posted":1714843179},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795503,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795502
What if i have a bad back?","attachment":null,"posted":1714843355},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795503
The pieces aren't heavy, like a child could lift them. Unless you mean you can't bend down at all.","attachment":null,"posted":1714844514},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795513,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795472
You need a flux","attachment":null,"posted":1714844539},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795516,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795512
>Unless you mean you can't bend down at all.
it isn't so much bending down as crawling around on the floor for an extended period, which after a while is hell on your knees as well as your lower back. House painting is not very bad on your body until some asshole thinks it's ok to have one guy paint baseboards all day long.","attachment":null,"posted":1714845003},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795516
Get some knee pads and a drug store back brace and take it slow. Like you could probably split a room across a couple days if you don't care about speedrunning it. If your back still can't handle that, then just hire someone because you're obviously not able bodied at that point.","attachment":null,"posted":1714846809},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795535,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795472
Melting zinc indoors can wreck your lungs. Do that outdoors in open air.
https://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=safety3/demo
Cold galvanizing or other coatings or using stainless hardware (cheap online) are generally wiser option. Study "hot dip galvanizing" if you really do have something not better addressed by other methods.","attachment":null,"posted":1714848469},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795583,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pic related shows a front view of a wall and ceiling at my new house. In some parts it shows a gap between the drywall pieces, in other parts I can see some expanding foam isolation. I want it nice and and paintable in the wall color. What would I fill the green part with to make it that way? I can’t fill it with wood or drywall i think because it’s a 100 year old house so the corner isnt straight or even over its length. It’s about 1” deep in some parts and 1/2” in others
Is there a product like drywall filler that can be applied like caulk but for ~1” gaps? Or how would I get it in there","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714855921416230.jpg","filename":"50663A24-99F6-4142-B95E-D02EB139678F.jpg"},"posted":1714855921},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795589,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794873
If 13% of the national socialist workers party members committed 50% of the crime, by liberal logic isn’t it prejudicial to write off the whole ideology/party?","attachment":null,"posted":1714856928},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795590,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm kinda broke right now bros and want to know if there's anyway I could get like a few dollars in the same few hours","attachment":null,"posted":1714857241},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795593,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795589
>implying any crime was actually committed
yes","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714857578839977.jpg","filename":"1684989767437647.jpg"},"posted":1714857578},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795607,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795593
Burt brings up a good point. I mean we’re just asking stupid questions here and not insinuating ang faction in world war 2 committed any crimes
Or even modern day…. Well except Israel we know they committed a ton of crimes since October of last year","attachment":null,"posted":1714860112},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795612,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795607
asking stupid questions is the key to opening npcs eyes. if they do any simple math, they'll quickly see the answer is greater than or equal to 110","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714861526790045.png","filename":"1713398981135295.png"},"posted":1714861526},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795607
>>2795612
you buffoons are like cockroaches in every way. can't you stay in your designated trashpile and leave us alone >>>/pol/","attachment":null,"posted":1714861985},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do you have a Heuer vise? Do the threads on the spindle look similar? Or have you ever seen acme threads with this sort of finish?
I was surprised, but I figure it doesn't matter for G acme threads. I assume this is a manufacturing shortcut. The thread flanks are smooth, and it feels fine, running it in & out.
But man, that looks shitty.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714889326812762.jpg","filename":"heuer.jpg"},"posted":1714889326},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795735,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I wanna enter the world of consoooooooooming 18V batteries, but I'm not sure which brand to go with.
I want an angle grinder, a large-ish hammer and some sander and a lawn mower. Price wise so far it's a tie between makita and metabo, which both have sales right now for a "cheap" entry.
I know, metabo is rather exotic in the US, but I'm actually living rather close to their home base in Germany (though, of course, they're china made (and also owned?) nowadays) so that's not an issue, however they're not seen that often in stores, so I can't just say >fuck it, it's just money and buy a new battery with a 15 minute car trip. Makita on the other hand is widely available and notoriously has everything under the sun with an 18V battery, but there's the whole
>hurr durr, they're way behind with their tech and the batteries have a brick-it chip on them
meme, so I'm uncertain.","attachment":null,"posted":1714891139},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795753,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795735
I'd go with Makita just because you never know when you might need some niche retarded tool ASAP. I've had their stuff for years and never had any issues with it. Tbf I have never used Metabo, but I've heard good stuff about them. However since they are both pretty solid brands, the accessibility and diversity of Makita tools gets my vote.","attachment":null,"posted":1714898113},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795754,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have to regrease my vise clamp after cleaning it. What am I supposed to use?","attachment":null,"posted":1714898643},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795761,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795754
mayonnaise","attachment":null,"posted":1714903510},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795771,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Dude wipes are actually great.","attachment":null,"posted":1714908166},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795802,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">outside receptacles don't have GFCI.
>install combination AFCI/GFCI breaker
>turn on
>circuit breaker breaks circuit instantly.
is it really a ground fault bros? old QO load center, type QO AF/GFCI because HD wouldn't sell just a GFCI. grounds and neutrals are all landed on the same bus. hooked up line 1 and neutral. it doesn't trip if the neutral isn't terminated. haven't tried it on another circuit yet. probably going to do that, then do insulation resistance test, then start replacing receptacles.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714916822606428.png","filename":"wedideverythingright.png"},"posted":1714916822},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795807,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is it true that I have to replace my dirt bike piston every 20 hours of use? why is that? my street bike has the same piston for more than 5 years.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714917140648121.jpg","filename":"3654.jpg"},"posted":1714917140},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795843,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795583
>>2795583
>Is there a product like drywall filler that can be applied like caulk but for ~1” gaps? Or how would I get it in there
buy pic related
fill with drywall compound
squeeze drywall mud into opening
don't apply to a thickness of more that 1/4" at a time
allow to set/dry then apply another coat
pre-filling the gap with strips of drywall or foam rope or strips of wood will make it go faster
crown molding may be another consideration","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714922437011885.jpg","filename":"grout bag.jpg"},"posted":1714922437},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795589
>If 13%
send that 13% to a wilderness continent somewhere","attachment":null,"posted":1714922544},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795847,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795735
>I'm not sure which brand to go with.
buy a "tool only" that fits your needs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDFMOP0qr3Q","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714922896898976.jpg","filename":"We Bought the New Universal Battery for All Tool Brands 0-23 screenshot.jpg"},"posted":1714922896},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795850,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795398
You'll need to provide more information to start with, like anything of the following: What kind of power? DC, AC, voltages, currents, phases, load? What is the customer's site power? Commercial mains, boiler/generator, motor/generator?","attachment":null,"posted":1714923280},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795855,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795807
Competition vehicles like a motocross bike are built to an extremely different standard then street bikes. A street bike is built to be reliable-ish, with longevity in mind over absolute peak power. A dirtbike intended for racing is built to run at 110% full throttle, with no regard for longevity. No point in making the engine last longer if your going to be down on horsepower compared to the rest of the grid - who cares if it lasts years if it keeps you at the back of the pack? Competition vehicles require grueling maintenance schedules. Something like a trail bike might have a damn similar frame and a similar powerplant, but make 1/3rd less power at the cost of not blowing up every 24 hours. Objectively, I'd recommend a look at what you are using it for and your priorities. If it's a dirt lot stunt toy, or a racer, and you want the power, it might be worth doing the rebuild schedule. If it's supposed to be more reliable then that or you don't want to pull an engine every week, might want to consider swapping to a less internally-stressed machine. Sometimes you can just get away with a lower-output motor in the same frame. What kind of bike is it?","attachment":null,"posted":1714923839},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795847
>One Batter System
Wouldn't trust that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714926928},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795951,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Wall air conditioner drain pan is filling with water.
In condo/apartment several stories up, don't have access to the exterior.
I keep reading vinegar and bleach are both corrosive to the fins and should be avoided. Pan tablets seem to be preventative and won't unclog.
Is there any retard-proof way to unclog the drainage?
Can anything be done without removing the unit from the wall?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714938072007591.jpg","filename":"1703480176793350.jpg"},"posted":1714938072},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795959,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Need to fill some holes in plastic. Used some JB weld mixed together plus frog tape on the otherwise and so far it seems to hold, but I want to experiment with another solution.
>https://www.wikihow.com/Fill-Plastic-Holes
This wiki how I found when doing research suggests to use super glue and baking soda in a similar method. Could anyone advise if e6000 should work similarly?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714938953194164.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714938953},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
>tfw i buy dude wipes
i truck driver they smell a little nicer than normal butthole wipes and somtimes are the closest thing i get to a shower","attachment":null,"posted":1714939886},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795968,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Thinking about putting in a little fountain in our yard. It's north facing and we're in zone 7a and the fountain would need to be outside year round. What are the downsides? It would be nice to have space for birds to bath, but happy just to have a trickle for visual interest. There's only one tree we'd have to worry about for leaves in the fall.
Does anyone have experience with solar powered fountains? Easy to install?","attachment":null,"posted":1714939955},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795970,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Any ways to fix small holes and scratches on vinyl flooring without having to redo it completely?","attachment":null,"posted":1714940076},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795971,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795951
newer units use the water in the pan to assist in cooling the condenser coil
it may not be clogged","attachment":null,"posted":1714940099},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795973,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795410
You'd probably be better off saving your time and effort by just making a mount and then screwing the entire small speaker housings to it. Those speaker boxes are screwed and glued together and the speakers themselves possibly glued into the frame. Not worth the time to take apart, may as well buy 3" speakers and diy in MDF. The plastic assembled speaker housing has some acoustic properties but definitely not worth disassembling for parts.","attachment":null,"posted":1714940347},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795978,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795959
What kind of plastic and what kind of repair?
ABS and (C)PVC have their own glues, as does acrylic. They can be solvent welded.
Nothing dissolves polyethylene and polypropylene so that needs to be heat welded.","attachment":null,"posted":1714941447},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795984,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795978
An unknown polymer and an unknown polycarbonate. I have no idea if ABS, but I am pretty positive it isn't made of any sort of PVC.
>what kind of repair
Small hole that has been cleaned up that needs to be filled in and made smooth. Thanks for the info by the way.","attachment":null,"posted":1714942226},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795992,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794949
Plastic flooring is cheap shit, if this is a rental that you're planning on fully renovating every 5-10 years then LVP is fine, but if you want the floor to last use something real","attachment":null,"posted":1714943388},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2795997,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795843
Thanks I didn’t know about those. Crown moulding isnt an option I think, it’s a 45 degree inside corner of the gable roof. Also it’s a dutch style farm those don’t have crown moulding anywhere.
But I will get a grout bag and pre fill with PU foam. Any recommendations on the drywall compound? There are many different kinds for different applications here but none of them says this specifically","attachment":null,"posted":1714944109},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796000,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795873
They just tested those. It’s a cool idea, but between $50 battery and $20-$30 adapter, it’s not any cheaper than buying a 2pk of brand name batteries when they’re on sale 70% of the year.
Also they shut off on any high draw tools. 1/4” impact driver and most basic drills that you’re not abusing, they worked, but most of the stuff you would want a 6.0+ battery for, the one size fits all will cut out under any stress.
Everybody bitching about the proprietary batteries does it with a strawman argument assuming that there’s no way to pay anything less than full MSRP for packs. And then people look at $35 “6.0 Ah” packs on Amazon that have knockoff Chinese cells and they’re really 3.0Ah packs that shit out after 50 cycles","attachment":null,"posted":1714944988},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796010,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795971
It's over a decade old
After a humid day, there's so much water in the pan it's audibly splashing around, but thankfully not leaking yet","attachment":null,"posted":1714946081},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796019,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795850
Three-phase 400VAC, we required 85A so client probably dimensioned for >100A. FYI we put the phases very slightly out of balance (we power small one-phase vision machines trying to balance everything).
Customer uses commercial mains.
It's in Europe.","attachment":null,"posted":1714947634},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795404
engineers are the fucking worst
t. degreed me working on the trades side","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714948625219875.jpg","filename":"rif-1640718264129_372803694412472.jpg"},"posted":1714948625},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796062,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795855
Kawasaki kx450 2024. I already put down a 70% down payment. I'm thinking of turning it into street legal bike. it's the lightest bike with a lot of horse power I found. I was gonna settle for africa twin but then I found out it's a 300 kilogram behemoth whereas a competition dirt bike only weighs 100kg.
I want a dirt bike to drive around in the middle of nowhere.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714953121286618.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1714953121},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796077,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795968
A twelve volt pump and a few 12v solar cells and you can probably have a daylight trickle in your bird bath. I wouldn’t bother with more than that without planing to run mains to fountain
>>2794930
>>2795398
>>2796019
What you want are called CT’s (current transformer) they go on conductors and measure current. With a reference voltage and some monitoring software they do more like show you if your clients PF is bad and things are more out of phase than you think.","attachment":null,"posted":1714956038},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796079,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795959
E6000 is not cyanoacrylic so it won’t react with baking soda it will only make a gross mess.","attachment":null,"posted":1714956261},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796091,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796062
If you ride it like a street bike, maintain it like a street bike.","attachment":null,"posted":1714958597},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796093,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795997
>Any recommendations on the drywall compound?
I've always used whatever I was using on the normal taping and finishing steps.
Which reminds me. You need to tape the joint when you get it close to the finish level.","attachment":null,"posted":1714958849},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796096,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2796062
>>2796091
Has anybody done that before? What is the process like with insurance and registration for something that isn’t meant to be road legal in the first place?
Unless they sell some KX450 (R) for (Road Legal) so insurers are used to it and it’s like you just bought a different trim level.","attachment":null,"posted":1714959006},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796097,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Deciding on redoing a room in my basement that's 400 sqft~, and I need new flooring for it, its concrete underneath.
So why do vinyl planks cost the same as the roll on stick on vinyl shit? Wouldn't the planks be a much better value?","attachment":null,"posted":1714959074},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796096
He said he wanted to ride in the middle of nowhere but not actually racing.
This would imply giving street bike levels of stress on the machine.
You don't need insurance and a license to ride in the middle of nowhere unless it's downtown Nowhere, Oklahoma..","attachment":null,"posted":1714959841},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796108,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796091
how does the engine of a dirt bike differ from street bike? surely it has the same materials makeup like piston, Rings and cylinders. I don't see why it warrant piston change every 20 hours.","attachment":null,"posted":1714960619},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796116,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2795959
E6000 isn’t super glue it’s just adhesive
Look for something branded superglue or CA glue
Also e6000 isn’t rock hard when dry it’s kinda goopy and holdy","attachment":null,"posted":1714962536},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796079
>>2796116
Thank you, exactly what I needed. On another note I was reading that the baking soda mixture may not be good for freezing temps so I'm thinking of trying graphite from a spare pencil I have.","attachment":null,"posted":1714963732},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796129,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796108
>how does the engine of a dirt bike differ from street bike?
The biggest difference and hence the reason for lower time before maintenance is the abuse expected.
WOT with constant gear changing in dusty, dirty environments.
vs
Cruising the street or highway at a reasonable speed only changing gears when coming to a stop and restarting.
That's why I said. >>2796091
>If you ride it like a street bike, maintain it like a street bike.
As opposed to >>2795807
>replace my dirt bike piston every 20 hours of use?","attachment":null,"posted":1714964902},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796143,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796129
so it's gonna live a long life if I treat it like a street bike?","attachment":null,"posted":1714966913},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796154,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Ripped out old basement subfloor
>See this on slab
>what do?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714969110694682.jpg","filename":"440284056_473974915072017_4409487919235614857_n.jpg"},"posted":1714969110},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796154","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714969183868030.jpg","filename":"440841834_7741694565852569_8074662757284088366_n.jpg"},"posted":1714969183},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796154
>>2796156
Make sure it's stop taking water.","attachment":null,"posted":1714973565},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796162,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796161
So just use some deep penetrating sealant followed by some self leveling and call it a day?","attachment":null,"posted":1714973621},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are there any good lectures series, podcasts or audiobooks on basic electronics for beginners?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714974678400576.jpg","filename":"img_1_1713402034188.jpg"},"posted":1714974678},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I’m insulating my shed but there’s so much information I don’t know what’s correct. Do I put it like this:
Outer wall (wood)
Vapour-open foil
Rockwool
Vapour-closed foil
Sheeting (ply)
Or can I skip one of the two foil layers, or do i put vapour open on the inside as well? There will be active ventilation since it’s used for melting candles","attachment":null,"posted":1714981972},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796170
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Maq5IyHSuc","attachment":null,"posted":1714996177},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">live in small room
>tv and window ac in the same area
>constantly blasted by cold air when using tv
I am considering buying a standing mirror or 3-panal japanese divider to block the air from hitting me but the problem with that is the air might come back to the ac and nullify the cooling process. Yes or no?
>no I cannot move my tv or ac","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715033592643476.jpg","filename":"BAF6CBB3-3D40-4690-ABD2-DFA0AC821645.jpg"},"posted":1715033592},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796491,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796487
That's not how it works... kind of.... actually it's possible that it could slightly reduce the efficiency... I would have the panel at a 45degree angle as close to you, and as far away from the AC as possible and it shouldn't be a problem.
Do any anons have any ideas on how to drop a large vehicle like a trailer or RV a 8 inches and slowly jack it up again without the occupants inside realizing? It can't be too noisy. But some noise could be explained as sci-fi nonsense.
Looking to reliably raise and drop a vehicle over and over.","attachment":null,"posted":1715033923},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796491
Thanks","attachment":null,"posted":1715036211},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796525,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what’s the best place to buy steel for welding projects? I’m looking for smaller sizes, like 2 by 3 feet of 20 or 18 gauge to repair a rusted out rocker panel.","attachment":null,"posted":1715038229},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796548,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How good are waterproofing sprays for clothes and are they any better than molten wax? I want to make me bag and pants waterproof but I worry about it making them feel uncomfy to wear.","attachment":null,"posted":1715045289},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796569,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796525
theres a shop just down from me sells off pieces exactly like that would suit you fine, dirt cheap too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715049307},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796590,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is it just me or are pickup trucks incredibly impractical to work out of compared to a van or even a full sized suv? I can fit 10ft 4x4s inside my vehicle with the back hatch shut. Plus I can keep a chop saw, tablesaw and all of my tools and materials locked safely inside at the same time. Not needing to worry about shit getting rained on or wondering if something will be missing if I go walk into a store before dropping off materials at the job. It only seems to make any sort of sense if you get a cap but then you essentially turned your pickup into an suv anyway. I just don't get it. Everyone I work with who has a pickup truck is a disorganized wreck","attachment":null,"posted":1715055444},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
What would the anons of /diy/ call this drywall texturing on the ceiling? I'm fixing this for my parents and am gonna have to learn a few things along the way, but that's what YouTube and Google is for. I went down the rabbit hole of drywall texturing though and can't decide if this slap brush or popcorn. I was considering the Homex Spray Popcorn to finish it but I don't think it'd match. It's too sharp, it almost looks like slap brush but it doesn't have a round pattern. I want to be able to match it as best as possible.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715056821790916.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240503_165124.jpg"},"posted":1715056821},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796595,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796594
that's not popcorn. take a sponge to some pretty wet mud and just press the sponge on the wall. test it on scrap drywall first","attachment":null,"posted":1715057429},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796595
Thanks anon! What kind of sponge do you think I would I need? I got plenty of drywall to test it out.","attachment":null,"posted":1715057865},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796596
>What kind of sponge do you think I would I need?
May I suggest a drywall texture sponge?
You could test kitchen or bath sponges to see if one of them works for you.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715058604839959.png","filename":"drywall texture sponge.png"},"posted":1715058604},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796600,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796598
I found one that matches up perfect based off the tutorial video, it's an orange peel/knockdown combo sponge. Off the top of your head, is there a patch procedure procedure you recommend? Like for example
>Screw in drywall
>Mesh tape and mud it up to level
>Sand
>Primer
>Texture
>Sand lightly once dry
>More primer over texture
>Paint and feather the edges
Does that sound about right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715059367},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796634,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795121
Remember the old internet when you could punch in "x assembly guide" and you would get a 15 page forum thread with some autistic mother fuckers showing you every step with notarised and labelled photos? Pepperidge farm remembers. Vehicle forums are the biggest loss, now you have to struggle with some shitty Haynes manual since search results just give you adverts for mechanics.","attachment":null,"posted":1715076303},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796143
No, the piston may last longer, but not forever like on most street bikes. Also you will normally ride much faster on the road than you would in the dirt, so you’ll still put lots of wear on the engine
>>2796108
They make the piston go faster to get more power from a smaller (lighter) piston and other components. Also you don’t see 450cc singles on street bikes a lot, and if you do they are usually pretty low revving ones","attachment":null,"posted":1715105972},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796741,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want a paint sprayer I can use inside with Latex/Acrylic paint, is an HVLP with paint thinner enough?
Or do I have to shell out for a bigger model?
This will be to paint inside and outside my house by the way","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715106406122840.png","filename":"51526253_2242709645969520_1128071781609897984_n.png"},"posted":1715106406},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796771,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796741
>is an HVLP with paint thinner enough?
No. For inside painting look for AIRLESS PAINT SPRAYER
These also work outside. They are for painting houses. (inside and out)
HVLP is for fine finish like a car.
HVLP has lots of overspray
Airless has much less overspray","attachment":null,"posted":1715112363},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796775,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
how do I electrify toilet water to keep dogs out of the toilet?","attachment":null,"posted":1715113481},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796802,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796590
pickups are only good for masons, farmers and DIYers. Anything less than an 8' bed might as well be a tonka truck too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715118856},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796808,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796775
just put hot pepper powder or sauce in it","attachment":null,"posted":1715119808},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796810,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796808
I thought about that but I don't know how to get that to constantly dispense on its own and what is the cheapest but most effective powder or sauce?","attachment":null,"posted":1715119915},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796817,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
How can I make this dent in my bumper look 80% better? Not sure where it came from and I don't want to spend 800 bucks on a bumper.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715120904588427.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240507-182604.jpg"},"posted":1715120904},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796819,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796817
>not sure where it came from
Tell us your embarrassing driving story","attachment":null,"posted":1715121128},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796840,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796819
Seriously. I think I picked it up parked in Gainesville for a gator tailgate. But I didn't see it that day so I'm not sure.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124523},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796874,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796817
>800 bucks on a bumper
Hooo boy you haven't shopped for car parts lately","attachment":null,"posted":1715128883},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796888,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795327
I wish you were near me because I would haul it away for free for my kids to use","attachment":null,"posted":1715131940},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796891,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"if i wanted to make a shitty irrigation system on the cheap would just poking holes into a hose and plugging it into a timed valve work?","attachment":null,"posted":1715133281},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796898,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796771
Yeah, i took your advice. Bought a Wagner 130 power or something for 200.
Sucks but I have to paint this entire fucking house inside and out considering the previous owners made it ugly as sin","attachment":null,"posted":1715136167},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796905,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795802
are you 100% certain those outlets arent slaved to a GFCI somewhere before them in the line? Sometimes it's in the garage or even a bathroom. That with a GFCI breaker would cause an instant trip","attachment":null,"posted":1715137253},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"When my house ac is set to 72 it's freezing. But when I set my window ac to 59 it feels perfect. I strongly believe neither is malfunctioning. What is the science behind why these two machine operate differently?","attachment":null,"posted":1715139240},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796916
>What is the science behind why these two machine operate differently?
Location of thermostat related to space you personally occupy.
Also fans (draft)","attachment":null,"posted":1715142797},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796951,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Leave the quesadilla maker out of this, it has fed my fat lazy ass many a time. Fuck that other shit though","attachment":null,"posted":1715146159},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2796976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796951
Like the picture says, just get an actual pan. Only boring white women who drink too much wine buy a nonsense kitchen appliance that can only cook one thing when there’s already a very simple way to do it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715158149},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797002,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Fire Marshall said my garage door opener outlet needs to be gfci but the reset switch has to be assessable from the ground. How the hell is that possible ! I’ve put in gfcis on normal outlets but the button is built in.","attachment":null,"posted":1715168958},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797003,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797002
You can have one GFCI outlet leading into other outlets and protecting those as well.","attachment":null,"posted":1715169431},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797003
That sounds like a not so horrible fix. Thank you!","attachment":null,"posted":1715173550},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797034,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797003
>>2797017
This. The GFCI for the outdoor outlets on the front of the house is actually inside the garage. The first holiday season my Xmas lights got poured on and my garage lights kept getting knocked out and I thought the outlet in the garage was going bad until I realized they run them in line like that.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715176923961872.jpg","filename":"image.jpg"},"posted":1715176923},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797017
>>2797034
Sorry bros I’m not more savvy on electric. This is a sketch of what I just discovered when I went up above the garage. There is a gfci on the back wall but unfortunately it’s fed from the garage opener outlet. There’s a switch on the exterior wall that seems to send power to all sorts of stuff including the opener outlet. Could I just add a gfci above the switch ? I know it would be an odd height for an outlet.
Or would it be better to run a new wire all the way from the switch, to the existing gfci, then continue back to the opener outlet??","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715177410294848.jpg","filename":"IMG_4087.jpg"},"posted":1715177410},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797042,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797038
Why is there even a switch for the garage door opener? Easiest possible solution, if I were to do it, remove the switch and put a GFCI outlet in that box instead. Unless you really want to keep the garage door opener switched…","attachment":null,"posted":1715178027},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797043,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How would you design this backyard? Not to scale.
>6 foot hedges all around
>don't want grass but areas with plants is fine
>want to enjoy late sun coming from top right
>sun shade awning above the double doors
>mainly have lunch here or drinks with frens
>maybe want a shed but don't want to block the sun from hitting the hedges so dunno how lol
Help I am a retard at this","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715178045087952.jpg","filename":"backyard ideas.jpg"},"posted":1715178045},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797046,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797042
The switch controls an outdoor light. Is it possible electric can pass through the switch box but not be switched for some items ? Because that’s what I traced on the wires and the switch seems to have no effect on the opener","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715178602254646.jpg","filename":"IMG_4096.jpg"},"posted":1715178602},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797049,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797046
Oh shit it’s open, that’s easy mode,
You could probably add a double gang box where that switch is, and then run a 2nd wire off to the light you want switched on/off, and then do a GFCI outlet in the other gang of the larger box?
I’m no sparky. imho sort of stupid your garage door opener is switched with the exterior light.
Other easy thing, replace that swtich with the GFCI outlet, and then replace the outside light with a daylight sensor model so nothing is switched and the light comes on at night.","attachment":null,"posted":1715179458},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797049
Hey I like this outlet/switch in a double box, that’s thinking outside the (gang) box) ! Thank you sir for your suggestions","attachment":null,"posted":1715180087},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797064,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797043
>Not to scale
Come on. Drawing this to scale is like the most important part.
> Help I am a retard at this
Then don't try to /diy/ the design yourself.
You can do all the manual work, but hire someone else to design it.
Hell, the good plant stores have people on staff to help people design a backyard - because they want you to buy your plants and hardscape stuff from them.
Go to a big lawn and garden store, look around at what plants you like, meet with their designer, get their help with the design, then do the work.","attachment":null,"posted":1715182033},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797065,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797055
Yeah I thought you had drywall and stuff in there. If you switch that switch box to a larger box, then put the GFCI in one and run that one without a switch to the garage door opener and other outlet so they’re always on, then run some fresh wire to the exterior light and keep the switch for that.
Try not to burn the place down.","attachment":null,"posted":1715182046},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797158,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796916
Window AC gets a more accurate reading because of airflow on the sensor, house AC could be sensing the temperature of just one stagnant spot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715194062},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797201,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm putting in a floating dock at this ramp, how should I go about pulling this rock out of the way? It's very fucking heavy and shaped like a long obtuse trapazoid (about 4'). I have to lift it over a small step (8" or so) no matter what direction I pull it in.
Is there an easy way to break it up into more manageable pieces? Or is my best bet to wrap it up in chains best I can and hoist it out towards the right.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715201851298889.jpg","filename":"1686916577080.jpg"},"posted":1715201851},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797226,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I need to fix and ideally hide this. The panel at the bottom of my wardrobe is broken, and sags under its own weight now (I've put something under it to prop it up temporarily). It's made of this shitty chipwood. My lease ends next month so I'm looking for a way to fix this discreetly and not be obviously broken at a glance.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715204262858092.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240508_214905.jpg"},"posted":1715204262},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797244,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"This latch in the dishwasher detergent dispenser broke off, best way to repair? I see only the whole dispenser can be ordered but not sure how much of a pain it is to replaced and I don't have access to a 3D printer. Nghw","attachment":null,"posted":1715208124},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797245,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797244
Forgot pic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715208188244955.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240508_223341078~2.jpg"},"posted":1715208188},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797246,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797201
>Or is my best bet to wrap it up in chains best I can and hoist it out towards the right.
Make a tripod and use a winch to haul it up.","attachment":null,"posted":1715208482},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797226
Put wood glue in and seat the chipped out piece back in place as best you can. You can try putting something heavy on it like a brick or a weight while it dries. When it's dry, fill any small cracks or gaps with drywall spackle. Then sand it lightly and paint it. If you're worried about the paint showing, tape off the sides and spray paint.","attachment":null,"posted":1715210797},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797226
bondo and paint.","attachment":null,"posted":1715211208},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797270,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797244
Looks like a cheap knockoff.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715213368700467.png","filename":"Predator.png"},"posted":1715213368},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797277,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797002
GFCI breaker","attachment":null,"posted":1715214633},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797308,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So my desk chair has a wheel that broke off inside of it. The section that broke off and is stuck up inside the chair leg is shown in red (that little retaining ring part is still up in there, as well as the top of the peg.) How the hell do I get it out to replace the wheel?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715223375521363.jpg","filename":"SideView.jpg"},"posted":1715223375},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797333,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797308
You can drill a hole in the leg above it and pound it out with a nail. Then fill the hole with bondo or putty and put a little paint on it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715227520},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797335,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797308
I might try one of those broken screw removal kits.
Or, just drill a hole in the chinesium metal, get a big wood screw,and drive it into the drilled hole, then try and pull it out.
That’s how I removed the batteries from my maglite that had leaked and welded themselves in there.","attachment":null,"posted":1715227838},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797336,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2794873
Does anyone else notice that the cost of materials, tools and supplies for DIY have gone up exponentially lately?
Do the people of the Jewish faith have anything to do with this?
I feel like it might be connected in some manner
I’m just asking questions here","attachment":null,"posted":1715228103},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797348,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey dudes I’m tired and just wanna sleep
My shit has worked fine for the last 2 years and just at this moment my light switch decided to break and it won’t turn off
Feels like there’s a spring forcing it back up whenever I turn it off.
What do?","attachment":null,"posted":1715229307},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797369,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2797348
Unplug your lamp","attachment":null,"posted":1715232164},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797381,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Why are boomers on reddit and other sites so hellbent on making sure people don't use airless sprayers to paint rooms even though it's actually 10x faster to spray?
Do boomer just love making other suffer?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715236179403721.png","filename":"61562033_2317032258537258_2935981730206580736_o.png"},"posted":1715236179},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797393,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797381
Kek, I know which thread you made.","attachment":null,"posted":1715248253},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797418,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Starrett's red boxes are just Tiffany's boxes for machinists.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715257237922140.jpg","filename":"S667De52883cUSp1.jpg"},"posted":1715257237},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797423,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"can I wire an outlet like this?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715257597869287.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715257597},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797425,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797418
The Knipex red box is pretty nice too, like “This isn’t some shit off the shelf at Home Depot”.
Although they have shitty plastic clamshells too.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715257880222648.jpg","filename":"8F8371C1-53F2-49C1-A291-F7498416D1BE.jpg"},"posted":1715257880},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797429,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797348
Unscrew the lightbulbs
Walmart light switch in the morning, remove and replace the switch
>>2797336
Corporations are increasing profits altogether like a giant colluding mob
That's why it's always best to shop small and local the best you can
>>2797226
Whatever you patch with, you'll need to paint the whole side so it's not noticable
>>2797201
Long chain hooked to a towing hitch
>>2797043
What climate zone are you in?
>>2797002
Just follow the wire down the wall and add a box
>>2796817
Pop it back out with a mallet and then sand, bondo, sand bondo, primer, sand paint
>>2796594
Rollon sand texture
Most hardware stores carry it that can be mixed into ceiling paint.
Follow the directions
>>2796590
A pickup with an 8' bed and topper with openable sides is what I've found to be best
A utility/service bed would be the only real way to improve from that IMO
I'm a handyman and almost never need my trailer since I have a topper and know pretty well what I'll need when I leave for the day","attachment":null,"posted":1715258181},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797433,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796201
It depends on your climate zone
From inside out in the Midwest we go drywall, 6 mil plastic, insulation, sheathing, tyvek or similar, siding
In the south you can't have the inner plastic
>>2796170
I would take an online college course
There are free ones these days you can take without getting credit
>>2796097
Never buy stick on
Planks are cheap now because everyone realized they're a foolproof flooring option
I would use a thermal break underlayment like DMX one step or something tho
>>2795970
Stain pen and wood filler
>>2795607
Kek","attachment":null,"posted":1715258736},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797472,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795583
If you mud it, use hot mud or "easy sand 45/90 whatever"
The big problem with big gaps is that normal compound will shrink and crack after a week or 2.
If it cracks a few months after doing it at the ceiling, caulk that small crack with dynaflex 230
Your big hurdle here is the size of the gap. A small crack later isn't a big deal but just normal drywall compound will fuck you over","attachment":null,"posted":1715265227},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797475,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795233
Never put foam against fire makers.
Just clean it up/off and put it back together","attachment":null,"posted":1715265462},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797510,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2797423
I’m sure it would work. IIRC, they want the N and GND bonded at the first means of disconnect because the way you have it, there could be voltage from a short somewhere else running through that N wire all over the circuit.
A Youtube electrician explained it to me once.","attachment":null,"posted":1715272518},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797563,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What should I do to fix the ugly pitting on this blade? I keep sanding and sanding mostly with 400 grit but it’s not getting anywhere. I guess I should move to lower grits but I don’t wanna remove too much metal from the blade.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715282288492976.jpg","filename":"IMG_8425.jpg"},"posted":1715282288},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797579,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797563
Is it old or did it just come like that?","attachment":null,"posted":1715284342},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797591,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797579
As far as I know the previous owner tried to remove the black dlc coating with a dremel. I picked it up on Facebook for super cheap and I’d really like to save it bc it’s a sick knife.","attachment":null,"posted":1715286993},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797563
400 is going to get you nowhere. Go lower. You want it smooth, right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715295840},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797655,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Why is my sink leaking? 2-basin sink. I installed a garbage disposal in one of the basins a few months ago. It worked fine for a few months but then my sink started leaking at one of the connections. I tried to fix it but after a couple days it leaked again.
Pic-related. Is it possible the p-trap is too deep? Should I cut an inch or two off of each end? If that's not it then what's the problem?
Also why is the standard connection such shit? Why not have an actual waterproof seal instead of this shit?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715296395535892.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240509_182633446_HDR.jpg"},"posted":1715296395},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797656,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797655
It’s supposed to be removable.
You’ve got a no-no there, it goes from large to smaller diameter on the way to the sewer. It should always get larger towards the sewer.
Yes, it’s probably too deep, you don’t want those kind of connections sitting in water.
They’re sealed with an O ring, maybe you can replace it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715296665},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797661,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797652
he wants to get rid of the pitting so you're going to basically need to grind it until it goes away, the grit doesn't matter at this point.
if you're not going to use it as a working blade, you could try using auto body filler and then recoating it with something.
if you want to fuck up the tempering you can fill in all the pits by welding steel rod into it and then grinding it back down to shape and then re-tempering. maybe you can get away with some kind of low temperature brazing to fill, but you probably won't be able to match the color of the steel with any metals that can braze at low temps.","attachment":null,"posted":1715297628},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797682,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797655","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715300351246681.jpg","filename":"1715296395535892.jpg"},"posted":1715300351},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797750,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795615
Have a cookie anon, theyre delicious","attachment":null,"posted":1715308462},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797563
I can't find the link right now, but there's a website where a guy does firearm restorations, and to get rid of the pitting which looks a lot like your blade's, he carefully files away material. You can either live with the pits, or remove ALL the material that's taller than the bottom of the pits.","attachment":null,"posted":1715310736},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797829,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does anyone know what program this is?
This program is on a fire stick that I have.
Google isn't helping","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715338971150732.jpg","filename":"20240509_162959.jpg"},"posted":1715338971},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797832,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797829
No idea, looks pretty generic though. Reverse image search turned this up from someone on Facebook, /nonameapk/.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715339687536617.jpg","filename":"386208105_831066922139890_7825522844506734352_n.jpg"},"posted":1715339687},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797847,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796062
Don't do it it'd not made for high miles. The reason it's light and high hp is because it made for performance over longevity of maintenance. You will be rebuilding and adjusting valves like crazy. If you want high hp road Enduro Aprilia 660 or yamaha t7 dr 650 drz400 with mods. You'll have to eat the extra weight. Dr350 is light and semi powerfull but not good for highway","attachment":null,"posted":1715342619},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797909,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
is it more efficient to provide full power to one peltier or to split the power between two, which will provide more cooling?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715351681737576.png","filename":"pasted.png"},"posted":1715351681},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sprayed the dandelions in my yard and it killed the surrounding grass leaving softball sized dead spots. Theoretically all I have to do is dig out the dirt in the spots. fill it with top soil and reseed? Or can I get away with not seeding since the areas arent that large?
Also is it too late in the season to fertilize?","attachment":null,"posted":1715352729},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797943,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Do they make anything like a potentiometer knob extension? Essentially a bar or tube of whatever length, let's say 4 inches, that will fit onto a potentiometer and then your knob can fit on the end of the bar/tube. I have a knob that is in a fixed area that is difficult to reach, I essentially only need this one knob to stick out to where it is more accessible.","attachment":null,"posted":1715356461},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2797985,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have a washer dryer that keeps getting a lint buildup around the door and clothes dont always come out dry.
I flicked through the manual (link below) and there is only a front "coin trap" filter as the lint is supposed to be washed away through the normal wash outflow, but this doesnt seem to be happening.
I checked this filter and it is clear and there is no buildup of lint there.
I have run the wash cycle while empty, and with a drum cleaning solution, but it hasnt resolved the issue.
Any ideas on a next step?
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/806797/Candy-Alise.html","attachment":null,"posted":1715365623},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798001,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797943
>Do they make anything like a potentiometer knob extension?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715367532914837.png","filename":"potentiometer shaft extension.png"},"posted":1715367532},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798085,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797682
I shortened it by about an inch and a half but it didn't help, it's still leaking from the circled connection (and I even saw some drips from the connection above that). And it leaks regardless of which side of the sink is running","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715379418679751.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240510_181002553_HDR~2.jpg"},"posted":1715379418},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798098,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798085
>>2797682
I should add that I installed the garbage disposal about 6 months ago so it was working fine for a while with no leaks. The drain pipe is only about 1/2 to 1 inch below the disposal drain, but like I said this was working for ~6 months.
is there a different type of connection I can use or something? These connectors just really don't seem ideal for this...","attachment":null,"posted":1715380886},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798110,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798085
you need to tighten it
use a wrench and crank it down
seriously, if it leaks then it's too loose","attachment":null,"posted":1715381689},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798110
Okay, I just took a wrench to it and got it as tight as it possibly can. That definitely helped, but it still leaks some. It's just now it's more of a drip instead of a steady stream like it was before.
at least it's manageable now if I just put a container under it to catch the drips but... still not completely fixed.
idk, at this point I'm thinking of just getting a new p-trap and connectors and everything and starting over and hopefully whatever problem caused this won't happen again.","attachment":null,"posted":1715383650},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798143,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2798120
Got here late. Did you change any of the seals? New seals plus lots of that pipe dope paste will normally do the trick.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715387009905969.jpg","filename":"4B06F188-14A3-467B-827F-0ECF7B9C6968.jpg"},"posted":1715387009},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798149,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798085
The slip joints have washers/seals at the nuts.
The typical translucent white nylon washers sometimes crack causing a leak no matter how tight the nut is.
Disassemble the fittings (again) and inspect the washers for damage.
Be certain the flat side of the washer is against the nut and the taper goes into the tapered opening of the fitting.
Yes, I've found them backward when doing repair after a diyer.
Also, inspect the pipe parts carefully while you have it apart. They can crack too.
Pic related shows a metal pipe but the washer works on metal and/or plastic.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715387289033874.png","filename":"44575843.png"},"posted":1715387289},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798143
>Did you change any of the seals? New seals --- will normally do the trick.
>>2798143
>lots of that pipe dope paste will normally do the trick.
Don't do this. It's designed to work without tape or paste sealer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715387528},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798212,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I had to rip a wooden table top in order to fit each piece inside a planer. I ran each piece through a joiner then did a mockup and ultimately glued it together using clamps and cauls. I used a generous amount of glue, Titebond III Utlimate. Didn't touch it for 48 hours. Ultimately I'm going to mount this tabletop onto raisable desk legs. My question is do I need to reattach the support pieces, think they're called cleats, that ran perpendicular to the wood? There's not much room to fit them with all of the desk frame hardware and I'm not convinced I need them. Any suggestions?","attachment":null,"posted":1715397093},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798212
Pic for reference","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715397371027694.jpg","filename":"IMG_5554.jpg"},"posted":1715397371},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798228,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798212
>>2798215
> 48 hours
Longer is better
> rip to put in planer
Why plane it? Was the top that bad?
> replace the “cleats”?
Yeah, I would.
Look at the work they put into making thise expansion slots.
Granted, when it was new, it was more important… new stuff is a lot greener sometimes and more prone to warping or cupping. However, you’ve fucked with it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715401267},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798232,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798212
Yes. That's a wide surface and a lot of joints to be just depending on glue.","attachment":null,"posted":1715401674},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798237,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798228
>>2798232
The table is 56”5/8 wide. The minimum width that the desk frame can be is 43”3/8, leaving me 6”5/8 on each side. Should I add the cleats here or should I minimize overhand by putting the desk frame as close to the edge as possible then adding the cleats closer to the middle? Picrel I can make the width 43”3/8 all the way up to the extreme edges of the table at 56”5/8","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715402308989033.png","filename":"IMG_5555.png"},"posted":1715402308},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798238,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How is a "house" like this able to be constructed/not give way without proper foundations?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715402432877959.jpg","filename":"20 - The Up House - Icons - Airbnb - Credit Eugene T'Jean Davezies.jpg"},"posted":1715402432},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798239,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798237
I would put them outside the frame","attachment":null,"posted":1715402664},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798242,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798238
It’s solid carbon fiber and nanotubes.","attachment":null,"posted":1715403360},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798276,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798242
Would it just be used for the base, or for the entire house's frame?","attachment":null,"posted":1715416082},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798294,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796905
Pretty sure there’s no other GFCI on the circuit. receptacle tester doesn’t trip anything at least.","attachment":null,"posted":1715427079},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798314,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795091
you finna? by your use of the english language you should just gibs a call too daddi and gettteeem to do it for you. Fucking moron.","attachment":null,"posted":1715432787},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798315,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795109
"full tools" you mean a fucking whole pack of allen wrenches and a rusty adjustable wrench you found in the yard?","attachment":null,"posted":1715432929},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798341,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey all,
I am trying to repair a BBQ that was given to me and the gas manifold valve stems are bent... They are brass
How should I straighten these with the least chance of snapping them?
I can try to squeeze them in a vise to straighten them or I can hammer them with either a wood backer of a steel backer to try and straighten (like one would do with a nail. What's my best bet?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715438548835676.jpg","filename":"20240511_103949.jpg"},"posted":1715438548},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798341
Nvm I got it","attachment":null,"posted":1715446755},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798437,"name":"Sieg heil","msg":">>2798385
What did you do?","attachment":null,"posted":1715457096},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798453,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have some electrical stuff which according to the manual is supposed to be mounted somewhere with sufficient airflow. Is there a type of enclosure which can provide some protection while also not impeding airflow?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715459120076524.png","filename":"1695584294844654.png"},"posted":1715459120},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798494,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"does anyone know what this locking mechanism is called? i’ve tried searching along the lines of “push spring lock” without any luck","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715466109493420.jpg","filename":"D99E6038-BBA7-4B7B-A498-B2263C72B8C6.jpg"},"posted":1715466109},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798498,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798453
Where do you intend to locate the unit? Enclosures with fans and filters if desired are easy to make or modify. What does the maker suggest when you contacted tech support?
Details matter.","attachment":null,"posted":1715466327},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798494
Here you go:","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715467223073524.jpg","filename":"easy.jpg"},"posted":1715467223},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798507
thank you!","attachment":null,"posted":1715472038},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What trade is easiest on the body/back?","attachment":null,"posted":1715482467},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798630,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Electrical/lighting retard here. Why the fuck is it so hard to get good G9 LED 40W equivalent bulbs? I have a bathroom fixture that uses 6 of these pieces of shit. The incandescent turn your face into an Easy Bake oven and the women can't do their make up under them, so that means LED or nothing. Most are 2700-3000k for mood lighting in chandeliers and not appropriate for the bathroom which should be ~5000k as far as I can tell. Most have shit CRI and the best I could get had a rating of 85 from the Chinese outlet on amazon if they are to be believed, they look OK when they work for a months or two but then start dying. I keep feeding this piece of shit $20 worth of bulbs every few months. The bases are horribly unstable and they flicker due to minor vibration in the room (WHY CAN WE NOT USE SCREW BASES FOR EVERTHING?). Then they start burning out and dimming and the entire length of them start to go into seizure mode. All the brands are shit too drop shipped from China except Philips I haven't tried yet because they want $30 for 4 bulbs. Are they all this fucking picky? I'm about ready to rip this piece of shit out and install a E26 fixture.
Also why do these sockets come with glass covers? One of them shattered today hours after changing them either due to heat or me over tighting it (to keep the fucking pieces of shit from wiggling and flickering out).","attachment":null,"posted":1715488344},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798749,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I niggerig something like pic related without any skills or access to tools.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715519192824080.jpg","filename":"StrongmanMachine.jpg"},"posted":1715519192},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798750,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798749
Same thing, but looks more fancy.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715519281259609.jpg","filename":"levermachine.jpg"},"posted":1715519281},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798759,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Pressure washer pumps
In my country (Greece) everyone will talk about how you need one with a metal pump, yet I can see no evidence of any pressure washer using a plastic pump (or images of one)
Do they exist? Does the karcher K5 series use plastic? And why is there no info online about this?","attachment":null,"posted":1715520325},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798760,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798749
>without any skills or access to tools
you either buy one, or keep wishing.","attachment":null,"posted":1715520414},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798773,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798760
>you either buy one
They haven't mass produced this thing since the 1920's.
>keep wishing
I refuse to believe a fulcrum is advanced technology that cannot be replicated at home. I just need to move a pipe around a pivot somehow.","attachment":null,"posted":1715521354},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798797,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798749
Obtain skills or tools. You're asking how to make one without making one. To make one requires cutting, drilling, welding and having appropriate steel on hand or buying same.
Barter with a local hobby welder can work if you have something they want, like a spare orifice without too many scabs.","attachment":null,"posted":1715526669},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798809,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795091
Those things have a limited lifespan. Pretty much assemble once, because it's not a lego set.
Find a better way to get it home in one piece.","attachment":null,"posted":1715527694},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798810,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798797
Jesus christ you people are autistic, I don't need the exact contraption I just need a lever than can move up and down a bit. After googling for a bit I'll just stick a pipe in one of these things, drill it to a plank of wood, and that should do the trick. Case closed.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715527752084572.jpg","filename":"31iWfpQuggL._AC_SL1024_.jpg"},"posted":1715527752},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797226
Don't worry about it; it's not your fault. The screw split the wood long before you got to use it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715528331},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798821,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have a desk with a front edge made of unistrut, and I want to put a removable shelf on the front to hold a MIDI piano, that I can fully remove and store elsewhere. There's no real room on the front or below for anything permanent, so I'm thinking of just drilling a couple of holes, putting some rods through them, and then hoping they just hold stiff enough or maybe having some kind of tensioning system so after the bars go in they bend in or out at the front to lock them from moving any further in or out.
I don't want a drawer, my desk is too low as it is. The keyboard is kind of long at 60cm, but it's only like 2kg so removing it after use won't be that much of a hassle.
Are there any other good ideas for this kind of thing?","attachment":null,"posted":1715529763},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798838,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798749
>without any skills or access to tools.
>>2798810
>drill it to a plank of wood, and that should do the trick. Case closed.
You must have really tough fingers to do that with no tools.","attachment":null,"posted":1715532555},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798841,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795771
Buy baby wipes instead, faggot.
>inb4 flushable
no wipe is good for a sewer system","attachment":null,"posted":1715533098},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798843,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Cheap Amazon multiprocess welders. I am not a pro. I am a homeowner who wants to weld up some shelving, make a tubing guide to help with installing a new well pump, and other odd jobs around the property. I know how to do each type of welding to at least a novice degree from my shop classes in college. What I am concerned about is if these machines are going to have such a low duty cycle they are unusable, if they are going to be a PITA when it comes to setting them up properly for a job, or if they are going to crap out on me so quickly I might as well have bought a better machine. What should I be looking for in the descriptions of these products so that I can find something reasonable for my needs?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715533947168185.jpg","filename":"IMG_3743.jpg"},"posted":1715533947},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798866,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798843
Pick a few that interest you then go on YT to see if you can find reviews/tests of that welder.
Amazon has too many fake reviews to use them as a guide.","attachment":null,"posted":1715538549},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798886,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798843
I have the 250A chengwelder. It's fine. Good enough for putting tractor implements back together.","attachment":null,"posted":1715541722},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798895,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I want to put a timer switch in my bathroom for the fan. The switch would go in the middle but there are tabs on the dimmer switch to the right side that are crowding that area. Is it okay to remove those tabs? A cursory look online says they're for heat dissipation but how hot does a dimmer switch get?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715543241887697.jpg","filename":"IMG_0406.jpg"},"posted":1715543241},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798896,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798843
they are perfectly sufficient for what you need
I would not even bother buying regulator and gas bottle desu
flux core is good enough for glueing shelves and stuff like that","attachment":null,"posted":1715544423},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798901,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798895
remove center switch
pull wires out of the way
move left-most switch to center
put timer in empty left-most position
profit!","attachment":null,"posted":1715544870},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2798939,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798901
Wow that's actually a really obvious solution I hadn't thought about haha. I'll do this, thanks!","attachment":null,"posted":1715554069},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799112,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How good are “universal” anchors (nowadays). I’m used to having to pick your anchor, matching your wall, but it seems like most stuff is universal or even “intelligent”.
Can I just buy some random, name brand (Fischer or Spax for my euro ass) box and be ready for everything?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715594417901652.jpg","filename":"IMG_2039.jpg"},"posted":1715594417},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799129,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2799112
They’re straight if you’re trying to hang a towel rack or a ring doorbell, but don’t let the fancy look fool you, they’re about the same as the basic ass plastic plugs.
If you’re going to do anything heavier than a couple pounds in drywall, some type of toggle is the way to go.","attachment":null,"posted":1715602595},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799129
I’m an euro, so drywall isn’t really a concern. I only got real walls.","attachment":null,"posted":1715603588},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I picked up this log splitter a few months ago. It stopped running. engine wont run at full throttle and dies down when the choke is fully opened. I bought new gaskets, carb, plugs for it, and still wont stay running.
I dont know enough about small engines., so I dropped it off at small engine shop, they shop had it for 2 weeks, and they cant get it running either.
HF had a sale on Predator engines, so I picked up a 224 for $150.
Does the predator and the briggs have the same mounting bolt pattern?
i may need a new shaft adapter for the hydraulic pump. not sure whats it called, or where to find one. can i get some info on that please","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715607852290382.jpg","filename":"higgy.jpg"},"posted":1715607852},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799163,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799161
the shaft thingy","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715607979649441.jpg","filename":"shafterd.jpg"},"posted":1715607979},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799167,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798895
The more tabs you remove, the lower your dimmers power rating becomes.
Read the manual by how much.
Big ceiling fan uses about 100w on full blast.
You should still be able to hook up 2-3 of them on any decent dimmer with tabs removed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715608470},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799168,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799163
It's a hydraulic pump adaptor yeah, I bet it will just bolt on, or maybe require you to drill new holes on the one you already have.
Best way to check is to just take it apart and see if it fits.
That's not the original pump either.","attachment":null,"posted":1715608629},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796062
I can't even imagine the pain in the balls (literally) it will be to ride a fucking dirtbike as a commuter.","attachment":null,"posted":1715609023},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799168
the engine has a restocking fee if i return it after opening.","attachment":null,"posted":1715609911},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799174
Examine the one on the floor.","attachment":null,"posted":1715613556},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have to till a yard soon (and later this year at a new house) and was curious what are your go-to tillers?
I prefer electric, are the ones on Amazon any good?
My yards aren't clay or anything but I need to unpack the top soil to plant grass.","attachment":null,"posted":1715613624},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799229,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">$520 for a 1000gal tank shit vacuum truck
Is the price reasonable or am I getting ripped of?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715620926448665.jpg","filename":"shit.jpg"},"posted":1715620926},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799232,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799229
just the tank or the entire truck?
for $520 that thing probably doesn't run.","attachment":null,"posted":1715621578},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799237,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799232
To pump the tank lol, lmao
The truck in pic is on a different continent than I am.","attachment":null,"posted":1715622382},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799238,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2799132
Whatever you say, it still applies. The plastic ones are straight for light to medium loads. Tapcons are easier in masonry IMO and do just as well. For something heavier, some type of toggle bolt if you have a thin wall with a void behind it like our glorious drywall in Burgerstand. And if you want to go heavier in masonry, use something like the all metal wedge anchors.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715622837926043.jpg","filename":"9D8155C5-20C1-43FD-8E46-06F74BA58D3E.jpg"},"posted":1715622837},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799248,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"hi /diy/
had a contractor fix some damage to my bathroom ceiling and walls today. a bunch of the shit from the wall (small pieces of concrete looking stuff from the ceiling, dried/peeled paint flakes, a bunch of sand like particulate, associated crap) fell into the toilet. i asked the contractor if it was okay to flush or if it needed to be fished out, he said its fine to flush so i did.
now im worried i did something dumb. it was a small amount of stuff, and the toilet seems to flush fine right now. the pieces were gravel sized at most i would say, and it was mostly just sandy particulate","attachment":null,"posted":1715624252},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799250,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799248
You know shit is a lot bigger than a few clumps of sand, right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715624323},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799255,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799248
It's fine, you poop worse turd than that.","attachment":null,"posted":1715624779},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799257,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799250
>>2799255
sorry bros im just paranoid and have anxiety problems. i know poop is much larger, but poop aint like rock hard cement or whatever the ceiling was made out of. the sandy particulate im not so worried about, more the pebble/gravel sized chunks of ceiling.","attachment":null,"posted":1715624990},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799258,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799174
They have one on the shelf for display, grab a caliper and measure it.
Either way, shouldn't be too hard to drill out for a different bolt pattern.","attachment":null,"posted":1715625047},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799257
>but poop aint like rock hard cement
Eat more goyslop and it will be.
>>2799192","attachment":null,"posted":1715625108},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799268,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
dont know if this is the right board to ask these sorts of question but is it worth buying a house with only electric baseboard heating? I dont think the house has any vents aside from the bathroom and kitchen.","attachment":null,"posted":1715627079},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799285,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Just checking to be sure, I learned a bit of residential electrical code back in the day but can’t find this. It’s allowed to use the second set of holes in pic to make an inline connection right? But if I have only one hole am I allowed to put 2 wires in (assuming they fit well)
And finally, I have a fourth wire in the same cable (switched, for a lamp further down), can I cram a wago straight connector inside the outlet box for that wire? Applicable code is iec 60364","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715631628027656.jpg","filename":"5A3EBD25-7975-4A97-8902-D3FACC58FE99.jpg"},"posted":1715631628},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799295,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799268
My take is only if it's cheap as fuck
And I mean, REALLY cheap and all else is great
Central air/heating is expensive to install and you cannot do it yourself.","attachment":null,"posted":1715632872},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799314,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"want to buy my first real calipers. vernier, dial, or digital? i don't use them often. want to go cheap, but decent quality, so i'm assuming i'd be better served by an analog set? suggestions appreciated.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715634802848293.jpg","filename":"photo_2024-05-13_17-05-55.jpg"},"posted":1715634802},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799323,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799190
>>2799258
the display is bolted down. they have measurements, but in the end i need to take it out of the box and size it up.
store said they might avoid the restocking fee if the engine was never ran.","attachment":null,"posted":1715636108},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799327,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799314
If you don't use them often, vernier. But honestly even the cheap digital stuff is good to within a tenth of a mm, which is all a casual user needs. Only problem is the cheap digital stuff runs the battery 24/7 so they die kind of fast.","attachment":null,"posted":1715636719},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799327
just take the battery out when you aren't using it.
i just tape the battery to the outside and slot it in when i actually need to use it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715638029},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799336,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799248","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715638551665461.jpg","filename":"bd2.jpg"},"posted":1715638551},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799338,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799314
Dial. If you don't use a digital one often you will spend more time hunting batteries than measuring.","attachment":null,"posted":1715638711},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Picked up a used drill press missing the quill feed wheel over the weekend. The hex bit in pic related is where it should attach. It measures about 7/8 inches across the flats, and 1 inch across the points. Would something like this work as a replacement wheel?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313878573142","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715641935420129.jpg","filename":"1.jpg"},"posted":1715641935},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Trying to remove this hinge from an old turntable. It's riveted in and I was hoping to just pop the pin out so I can get the two halves apart and make removing them easier. But the ends of the hinge seem to be almost folded up?
Any idea on how to get this apart? Current idea is just jam a screwdriver in the gap on the folded edge and pry open, but not sure if that'll actually do shit.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715703319708224.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240514_120026501.jpg"},"posted":1715703319},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799587,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799586","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715703441674819.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240514_120036694.jpg"},"posted":1715703441},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799615,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799586
You run the risk of it breaking the tab off.
Just drill the rivets out from the inside of the case.","attachment":null,"posted":1715706500},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799354
both are 7/8" so in theory, it should work unless your drill press needs slanted spokes on the handle to clear the drive belts on top.","attachment":null,"posted":1715706751},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799621,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799616
Who is going to put that thing under a drill press. Step bits eat rivets, easy. Prying is going to mar the surface.","attachment":null,"posted":1715707314},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799632,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone know about hanging art?
I've got this A3 size risograph print that I wanna frame. Would it look better matted or unmatted? I'm leaning towards unmatted but I dunno if this is the kind of print that would get hurt being pressed against glass, which a mat would prevent.
What do you think? There's not a home decor board so I figured this is the next best place to task.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715708266809905.png","filename":"clipboard.png"},"posted":1715708266},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are these okay to use with non-insulated wire? As in, bare copper?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715708872457392.jpg","filename":"51hS7c2qzvL.jpg"},"posted":1715708872},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's the best way to make new contacts for 18650 batteries? I have some cordless 20v battery packs that have a corroded contacts. Or should I try and find the right size ones on temu?","attachment":null,"posted":1715709053},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I need to hang a backdrop for a projector onto a preexisting curtain rod. The existing curtain is black, so I need to hang material in front of it. I don't have the backdrop yet, so I'm not limited in that regard. The main issue is that this curtain rod is about 10' off the ground. There's no ladder at this venue, and I would need to rent a vehicle to be able to haul a ladder of my own. Your question, if you choose to accept it, is: what's the best method for rigging a backdrop to a curtain rod that's 10' off the ground without using a ladder, a drone, a trebuchet, a falcon, grappling hooks, etc","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715713368985708.jpg","filename":"0OptsBqABLRNZmFgtiA5OD59QcP40SbM8slQQHnPBd0.jpg"},"posted":1715713368},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799658,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"diet soda + toothbrush + rinse, you might not even need the toothbrush","attachment":null,"posted":1715714700},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799661,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799654
>what's the best method for rigging a backdrop to a curtain rod
steal your mom's curtain hooks. or make some out of old hangers. it's literally what they are for, it's basically upside down J and you hang it right on the rod over the existing curtain. you could even make extended Js so each has a 2'2" long handle you can use to place them at 10', assuming your not a manlet. you can just put a simpler version of a curtain side hook through a hole for each one, you don't have to have the fancy clip and pocket. use a grommet or sew around the hole, bend hanger as appropriate.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715715397058111.jpg","filename":"(You).jpg"},"posted":1715715397},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I got a free grill and some cheap propane tanks. Problem is the guy ripped me off on the tanks, one that was supposed to be 3/4 full is empty, the other has a visibly cracked seal. I've removed the cracked piece of shit seal after verifying it leaks. I'll be wire brushing the brass to clean up the rest of the rubber and then putting back my own seal from the bits bins. I don't have a question. Wish me luck.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715715764346563.jpg","filename":"20240514_134053.jpg"},"posted":1715715764},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799665,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799661
>Outworld scented hands typed this post","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715715897612388.png","filename":"05.png"},"posted":1715715897},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799664
chuck it throw one of his windows","attachment":null,"posted":1715716977},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799674,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799671
well the good news is I got it to seal enough to test the grill, the bad news is I don't have a gasket that is quite right (too big, too thin, too long) so while I can seal it once you mess with the tube or canister it starts leaking. Guess I'm headed to a propane exchange where some millenial who is on his phone will give me a new one.","attachment":null,"posted":1715717498},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799678,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799654
Tie weights to both corners of the backdrop on some long rope, throw them over the rod, then pull on the ropes at the back to get it into position. Shouldn't be difficult, and you can tie them taut.","attachment":null,"posted":1715718022},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799681,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799112
Universal for the Fischer ones just means they can work as both normal anchors and drywall anchors and don’t need to be fully inserted. These do only medium well in 19mm drywall imo (but okay for being 80% cheaper than Toggler) but are very good multi purpose anchors for harder and mixed materials. Keep in mind that they need to be hammered in and are more difficult to remove. Perfect in brick and concrete. In mortar (as in between rows of bricks) the smaller ones havent done too well for me (but that may have been my poor drilling it’s hard to put a clean 6mm hole in 100 year old mortar+grout) and they don’t expand as much as some others do. But cheap and good in 90% of cases","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715719868239284.jpg","filename":"C424D6C8-2DCE-447D-87E5-7D8F4415F902.jpg"},"posted":1715719868},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715721106115174.jpg","filename":"516c82002db15d004db5bcc27013c5cb.jpg"},"posted":1715721106},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799687,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799632
Whatever you go with, I'd hang it facing the wall","attachment":null,"posted":1715721575},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799694,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799687
most hanging pictures are facing a wall.","attachment":null,"posted":1715722075},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799636
Of course.
Use for what though? Not as a stripper, obviously ...
just as a wire cutter? Yes those will cut copper.","attachment":null,"posted":1715722626},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799703,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799694
Some face a window or door.","attachment":null,"posted":1715722687},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799586
they are folded up. it keeps the pin in place. just fold them down and remove the pin.","attachment":null,"posted":1715722764},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799709,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799615
this is fucking stupid advice. why would you drill perfectly good rivets before you ever had a problem? the tabs are made to bend and even if for some reason they break it's simple af to put a pin back without the tabs and it still looks good because you didn't gorillafuck the rivets. fucking cancerous moron.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715722960602604.jpg","filename":"t(You).jpg"},"posted":1715722960},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799712,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799632
you can find a framed work at a garage sale or goodwill and replace it with your piece. if you matt it yourself you need a special tool to bevel the cardboard matt. if you go to a frame store it's expensive af. putting that against glass (er plastic) shouldn't be a problem- it's clean and dry, and if you matt it typically you would dry mount it anyway which has more of a chance of fucking it up. otoh a real frame has glass and getting UV safe glass is important for protecting the ink.","attachment":null,"posted":1715723155},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799713,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799658
>>2799639
fucked up the quote","attachment":null,"posted":1715723216},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799715,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799709
>why would you drill perfectly good rivets before you ever had a problem?
>>2799586
>Trying to REMOVE THIS HINGE from an old turntable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715723471},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799736,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799715
in which case it doesn't matter if he snaps the tabs.","attachment":null,"posted":1715724869},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799747,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I remove these?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715726389389098.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240514_222606469.jpg"},"posted":1715726389},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799770,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799747
Harbor freight sells a specific tool that’s a wide flat two prong fork. You got to get in between to two layers and pop the top out partially.","attachment":null,"posted":1715730000},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799832,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
I have stainless steel HEMA feders and I want to class them up a bit with some designs. Should I slap them with some electro-chemical etching or hit it with an engraver? I'm not sure of the pros/cons of each method when it comes to putting a design onto something designed to hit stuff and imitate combat.","attachment":null,"posted":1715739887},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799867,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is it possible to get non-LED versions of these lights?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715748541926866.jpg","filename":"51VW8LXE-XL.jpg"},"posted":1715748541},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799875,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do I keep the ants out of my A/C relay? This is the third year in a row the relay's been clogged with ant carcasses.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715750562189518.png","filename":"ants.png"},"posted":1715750562},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799867
I don't know where you live but in the US you certainly can.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715779418537255.jpg","filename":"SmartSelect_20240515_082302_Chrome.jpg"},"posted":1715779418},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2799972,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799875
When you replace the contactor, use a shielded one.
Dust the inside of the compartment with Sevin dust","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715784884214559.jpg","filename":"91Wf6DG-DGL._SL1500_.jpg"},"posted":1715784884},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800045,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799314
> want to buy my first real calipers
Same here. I want the classic, manual ones, but holy shit. 99% of the stuff you see on Amazon is those random word salad Chinese “brands” and going to a local big box store is just the same shit, but with their own brand and at higher markup. So I either might as well go to AliExpress or get me some expensive pro stuff.
There’s some rather expensive jap brand, forgot the name, guess 60 bucks is what I have to spend then?","attachment":null,"posted":1715798860},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800053,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800045
>There’s some rather expensive jap brand, forgot the name,
Mitutoyo","attachment":null,"posted":1715799819},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"is it possible to grow seaweed at home? if yes, is it worth the effort and cost?","attachment":null,"posted":1715800982},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800072,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800059
Yes and depends what you want to do with it.
>>2799875
Put copper grease. Protects it from oxidation and keeps the ants out as well
Actually just posting to find
> 2800000","attachment":null,"posted":1715802013},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800276,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800053
That’s the name. Are they good? Other brands besides OKTLLGEER or whatever they’re all called worth looking into?","attachment":null,"posted":1715833873},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800299,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799957
I hadn't thought of searching for "dimmable", that's a good idea.","attachment":null,"posted":1715838292},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800311,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800072
ad seaweed farm: not commercial, just to grow fancy seaweed like mother of pearl for myself and as gift to friends and family","attachment":null,"posted":1715842627},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800314,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800276
>That’s the name. Are they good?
They're supposed to be the best.
Unless you're a tool and die maker, any $20 caliper is all you need.","attachment":null,"posted":1715845337},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800317,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800314
Well, I occasionally am called a “tool” so I guess I need them.
But yes, I’d guess mid-tier light to be good enough, but mid-tier seems dead.","attachment":null,"posted":1715847606},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800334,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"any simple ways to remove super glue from plastic without damaging the plastic?
i'm considering sanding as the last option because i don't want to mess up the surface finish on the part.","attachment":null,"posted":1715857625},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800432,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"hi /diy/
painter came by to paint the bathroom today after fixing some water damage. he also painted the radiator. i dont know anything about radiators or the paint he used (im guessing it was standard cheapo paint - the bathroom was painted before and some of the paint started having moisture issues)
is that safe / is there any problem? would the radiator ever get hot enough to cause the paint to catch fire or anything else bad? all the radiators in the apartment have paint on them, but i dont know if the other ones were painted with some special paint or something. thanks and sorry for being a peak retard","attachment":null,"posted":1715875509},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800434,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800432
forgot pic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715875570326857.jpg","filename":"rad.jpg"},"posted":1715875570},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800439,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800311
Ideal would be outdoor space for big seawater tanks. Building them permanent with concrete would be best, but you could do it with some IBC totes cut open. The more surface area the better. Are you close to the sea? If you cant collect sea water, the salt will get expensive fast. As will lights, if you do it indoors. water depths depends on the species of seaweed. Substrate should be rocks from the ocean. You'll need some good pumps to create a current and circulate the water.
You can add mussels, crustaceans and fish too if you want. You could start with a big aquarium indoors for learning purposes, but you will not harvest very much and it'll be quite expensive seaweed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715876560},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800440,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I took apart a couple electric motors I found for the copper. One of the stator windings wasn't copper, but a silvery metal. What else do they use for them? Aluminium to cheap out on material?","attachment":null,"posted":1715876696},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800506,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800440
Yes, it's aluminum with copper-colored varnish coating.
The chinks are even making insulated, stranded wire with aluminum conductors.","attachment":null,"posted":1715889974},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Please help a poor, simple man. I'm gonna greentext the story so you have full context.
>Notice water dripping from a CoAx cable running out of the attic
>Go up and investigate
>Drip pan for furnace/AC (not sure the combo term) full and nearly overflowing
>Drain it with a wet/dry vac
>Look for leaks or cracks
>Can't find any
>AC won't turn on
>Buy new float switch and install it
>AC works
>Dripping continues
>Turn off AC
>Realize there's nowhere for the condensation to drain out of the pipes, they just form a full loop
>Drain them with the wet/dry vac
>Decide to try and pump water out
>Figured a regular pump would burn up since it wouldn't be full all the time
>No fucking clue what to buy
>Wageslave at Harbor Freight suggests a condensate pump
>Buy it and install it
>Doesn't fucking help at all, barely kicks on and overflows
>Decide to go fucking nuclear option
>Go to Home Depot and buy a fuckload of fittings, including a connector for a garden hose
>T into the drain circle that previous owners installed
>Connect garden hose
>Run garden house out of gable vent
>Realize this won't actually drain anything because no water pressure
>Now I just have a drain loop connected to a 50 foot garden hose running out of my attic
>Dripping significantly decreased, but only temporarily because I can't get rid of the fucking water
>mfw
Please help me, /diy/nosaurs. I just wanna run my AC and not have buckets in my fucking room.
>inb4 hire someone
Fuck that. I wanna learn how to fix it and do it myself.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715899384310878.png","filename":"1611110819857.png"},"posted":1715899384},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800644,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What does it mean when an appliance, a dishwasher in this case, says to 'Reset power to breaker for 30 seconds'
Does that mean just unplugging it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715917646},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800644
Yes.","attachment":null,"posted":1715929511},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800699,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I've got these wall anchors that came with this pullup bar and I just don't understand how this is meant to hold onto the wall.
The screw is flat, there's no head to it. It's just smooth.
The wall plug is just a shank with no threads. It comes with a nut and washer.
I have a concrete wall. But even with a dry wall I just don't understand how such an "anchor" would work?
Every steel wall anchor I've ever used had a threaded plug and a big bolt with a hexagonal head","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715935192528365.jpg","filename":"20240517_122846.jpg"},"posted":1715935192},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800704,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800699
As you tighten the bolt the screw is pulled towards the nut, which pulls the flat head into the body which expands it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715936844},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800756,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do i remove this water ( Underground garage without drainage )","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715952005993845.jpg","filename":"1244.jpg"},"posted":1715952005},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800757,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800756
WITHOUT water*","attachment":null,"posted":1715952074},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800759,"name":"Electronics learning fren","msg":"I'm learning electronics right now and just earlier I made a simple parallel DC circuit with a LED, resistance and capacitor, because I wanted to observe the capacitor charging with my own eyes instead of blindly believing the theory.
I noticed that after 2 to 3 RC time constants the LED did start getting dimmer, but it was also having alot of flickering, all the way at 5 RC or so it was practically off but still flickered to full brightness randomly.
What's the reason for the flickering? I thought the dimming process should be gradual, since the electrons should gradually build up on one capacitor plate, and the electrons on the other side gradually move to the negative terminal of the battery. Unless it's random noise maybe inducing a current due to Faraday's law but then I should have also had brightness increases without the capacitor there (which I didn't)??","attachment":null,"posted":1715952303},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800760,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
>dripping faucet driving me insane
How the fuck do I pull out the valve ceramic thingmabob? It has no clearance for a regular wrench.
Please help I am going to kill myself if it continues to drip","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715952554589128.jpg","filename":"Untitled.jpg"},"posted":1715952554},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800761,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800759
Draw the circuit please, what are you using to drive it?","attachment":null,"posted":1715952615},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800762,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800760
Do you not have basin/tap wrenches? Also called backnut wrenches.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715953300111948.jpg","filename":"backnut.jpg"},"posted":1715953300},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800763,"name":"Electronics learning fren","msg":">>2800761
I was using a 9V DC battery.
It was literally just
Battery + terminal -> Wire -> Resistance (56k Ohm) -> Capacitor (470uF) -> LED light -> Wire -> Battery - terminal
(Everything was wired parallel)","attachment":null,"posted":1715954257},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800770,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800762
No, I will look into that (and how it is called in my) language. Thanks for the picture.
>>2800763
It should be exponential decay/rise. What you describe means something is off. If you wired the LED parallel to the RC circuit then it is short-circuiting the battery.
Try a series circuit with the same constant.
Flickering usually means bad contact or something broken/burnt (in simple DC circuits such as these, of course). Drawings and pictures would really help to understand what you are doing vs what you think you are doing.
You can use this to draw and simulate:
https://www.falstad.com/circuit/","attachment":null,"posted":1715955255},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2794873
Briggs straton 875 tiller. Wtf is this wire? No volt meter handy.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715962325023269.jpg","filename":"20240517_100652.jpg"},"posted":1715962325},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800813,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800812
Under the governer system. Also which position for governer for start? Prob is not getting spark.","attachment":null,"posted":1715962432},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800813
Pic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715962499940129.jpg","filename":"PXL_20220112_235741091.jpg"},"posted":1715962499},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800851,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800756
cover it with one of pic related or kitty litter
allow granules to absorb oil
sweep up and dispose of
powdered detergent works great as a finish clean after using the dry sweep
carry a bucket of water and a mop or towel for final removal","attachment":null,"posted":1715970193},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800853,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800851
>pic related","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715970300636809.png","filename":"dry sweep.png"},"posted":1715970300},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800938,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800756
you get a paper towel and you wipe it up you fucking zoomie faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715982529},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800946,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800760
needle nose or adjustable wrench tips in twist with another wrench","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715983113579027.jpg","filename":"you use a wrench.jpg"},"posted":1715983113},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800948,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800851
Good advice.
I use sheetrock 90 drywall dry mix…. Just dump some on and it will soak it up.
Then, after a decade or two, I get around to sweeping it up","attachment":null,"posted":1715983136},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800957,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800946
That could actually work. but my wrenches don't really fit there, maybe with smaller ones.
I've resorted to use the faucet handle itself to unscrew that, it's a quarter turn to
>put handle
>push down
>remove handle
>put it on the closed position
>push down
>repeat
>thing removed
I was afraid to do this because it is a fragile looking metalized plastic thing.
Thanks guys the dripping is gone.","attachment":null,"posted":1715985236},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2800958,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800957
>>2800946
Also insane photoshop skills kek","attachment":null,"posted":1715985298},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801014,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Should I install a Weather Resistant receptacle in my bathroom? It gets super humid after a shower since the vent fan suck ass.","attachment":null,"posted":1716000161},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801017,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801014
no you should replace the vent fan. the outlet should be GFCI so you can hairdryer in the bathtub and not die, a little swamp air won't hurt anything. replace the damn vent fan.","attachment":null,"posted":1716001226},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801040,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"my garage is only drywalled and insulated where it shares a wall with the house. it's all studded out and I have insulation and drywall to do the rest. there is no vapor barrier outside the studs, just wall board (1/4" not drywall) and brick or particle board then wood siding or roof.
I don't need to add vapor barrier on the inside right? like insulation > vapor barrier > drywall etc. I can just go insulation > drywall > firetape right?","attachment":null,"posted":1716006963},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801119,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"the battery pack of my hair trimmer reached the end of its life as it barely charges.
Replacements seem difficult to find so I took it apart to see if I could replace the cells.
the pack is labeled 2.4V 800mAh and inside there were two AA-looking 900mAh 1.2V NiCd flat-top cells with tabs soldered on a "PCB".
I'm having trouble finding the same NiCd cells so I was wondering if I could replace them with NiMH cells of the same capacity.
I've read they're not the same, as NiCd seems to have a higher peak current or something like that and there might be an issue with trickle charging.
Any help is appreciated.","attachment":null,"posted":1716034005},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801131,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801119
I think they are interchangeable with caveats because the charging profile of the two types of battery are different. I am an EE but I know little about batteries in specific, sorry m8. Can you buy a charger with the battery pack you are looking into?
Also whatever charge monitor IC your thingmabob has is probably expecting the old pack... I hate consumer electronics I hate consumer electronics I hate consumer electronics (x 1000)","attachment":null,"posted":1716036286},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801170,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795127
>>2795122
Never paint mud or even bare drywall without priming it first. You aren't your grandfather, there's no lead or anything in the paint anymore that makes it worth a piss. It will bubble no matter if it's flat or gloss.
>any flat latex paint works fine for a first coat;
Tell this to all your customers so I can make more money off them in 3 years.
>>2801040
The vapor barrier on the exterior is all you need unless you're doing the floor. If you have none I would go with the purple drywall for safety of mind. Moisture is only a problem when it's not allowed to dry out, in some cases a vapor barrier will make the problem worse.
>>2800948
>I use sheetrock 90 drywall dry mix
You can also brush it on window panes to make oily fingers/oils dissapear without using windex. Glazers use it to clean windows from the putty.
>>2800562
>Realize this won't actually drain anything because no water pressure
You have a drip pan in your attic and somehow can't manage to make water find its level to the ground and for some reason you believe you need a pump? Did you try sloping the drain rofl? It's bad enough you haven't called your landlord already.","attachment":null,"posted":1716044423},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801370,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795472
No. Galvanization is an eletrochemical process. Also zinc is toxic.","attachment":null,"posted":1716069475},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2801407,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801170
Wait, you're telling me it's water in that pan? A liquid that flows? And all I have to do is tilt the pan and it will magically disappear? That's fucking wild, man!","attachment":null,"posted":1716076551},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2802045,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How to (in theory) make amphetamine at home with a big budget?","attachment":null,"posted":1716195906},{"board":"diy","thread":2794873,"pid":2802069,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801370
>Galvanization is an eletrochemical process
no it's not. that's how "hot dip galvanization" is done","attachment":null,"posted":1716206896}]}
{"title":"/ham/ Amateur, CB, Shortwave Listening, Pirate Radio, Repeater Kerchunking General","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795394,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"But the Shitposting Must Go On edition
Previous thread drowned out by contesters: >>2785963
Eternal thread theme: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gd43b_ZcuU
>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
http://www.arrl.org/what-is-ham-radio
https://www.fcc.gov/wireless/bureau-divisions/mobility-division/amateur-radio-service
>Your search engine of choice works well too!
>The FAQ is now back:
>https://wiki.cybsec.io/index.php/HamFAQ
>OP, the cybsec domain is gone.
>NEW FAQ is updated to preview 15
https://files.catbox.moe/aftx43.htm
>The wiki is down but is archived: https://archive.is/PjR5s
>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable
https://www.pcs-electronics.com/guide_coax.php
>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?
http://www.radioreference.com
>Basic Rx loop fundamentals
https://www.w8ji.com/magnetic_receiving_loops.htm
>DIY SWL Mag. Loop
http://www.kr1st.com/swlloop.htm
>Small Tx Loop
http://webclass.org/k5ijb/antennas/Small-magnetic-loops.htm
>In Depth Loop articles
http://www.kk5jy.net/magloop/
>Homebrew RF Circuits
https://www.qsl.net/va3iul/Homebrew_RF_Circuit_Design_Ideas/Homebrew_RF_Circuit_Design_Ideas.htm
>NEW Library
https://mega.nz/file/UCgEGAjb#rwNcnMAQCUUbSp8supsFvn9QEHCWUW86eLcZa16ZG4Y
>Online Practice Tests:
http://aa9pw.com/
https://hamstudy.org/
https://hamexam.org/
> Real-Time Propagation Data
http://prop.kc2g.com/
>Space Weather
https://www.swpc.noaa.gov/communities/radio-communications
>WSJT-X 2.1 User Guide
https://physics.princeton.edu/pulsar/k1jt/wsjtx-doc/wsjtx-main-2.1.2.html
>Homosexual (ft8) guide
https://www.g4ifb.com/FT8_Hinson_tips_for_HF_DXers.pdf
>APRS
http://www.aprs.org/
>Weather Fax resources
https://www.weather.gov/media/marine/rfax.pdf
https://weatherfax.com/stations/
>point to point predictions, its free and will give you an idea of how much power/ what frequencies to use to reliably talk to your friend
https://www.voacap.com/hf/
>how do I into Morse code in a good way?
https://pastebin.com/HByjfN4F","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714822505125939.jpg","filename":"ham2023.jpg"},"posted":1714822505},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795397,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"First","attachment":null,"posted":1714823058},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795384
that's true
not gonna lie though a little apprehensive about drilling a hole in the case for an sma connector","attachment":null,"posted":1714824225},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795414,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714828884132028.png","filename":"1704786125926202.png"},"posted":1714828884},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795414","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714828953099990.jpg","filename":"1603800124172.jpg"},"posted":1714828953},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795416,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795415
>S in the chat for MFJ","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714829014824344.gif","filename":"1606268326160.gif"},"posted":1714829014},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795421,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795416","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714829671309890.jpg","filename":"1702985103318165.jpg"},"posted":1714829671},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795460,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I got a job two months ago working for a subsidiary of Motorola. We install and maintain radios across a Midwestern state for municipalities, counties, and some corporations. I've been to some tower sites, dispatch centers, etc. Mostly I've been installing mobiles in police vehicles and shit like that.
What cool stuff should I look into related to the job? I have a technician license and a couple of baofengs but they are pretty much unused. I know more about programming the radios and installing them than I do about operating them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714837638},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795476,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are log periodics the best options for multi-band antennas? Gain similar to a 3-4 element monoband yagi, on every band, with <1.3 swr and no tuner needed. What's not to love?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714840873398241.png","filename":"obdya12_5 (1).png"},"posted":1714840873},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I bought a portable vertical antenna bc I want to get into POTA. Set it up this morning and had the SWR at 1.07 on 40m. A light drizzle moved in and SWR shot up to well over 5:1. SWR changes are normal when the elements of an antenna are wet, but I've never seen a swing with such a drastic swing before.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841057},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795479,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795460
So what, you're playing with a tech license and some walkie talkies? They're basically a jailbroken bubble pack frs radio that happens to transceive out of band. There's nothing job related there. Just focus on installing radios I guess.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841089},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795481,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476
If that's in your price range, go for it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841126},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795482,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476
>What's not to love?
not a resonant antenna, weight, wind load
certainly pricey
depends on what you want to cover ?
20-17-15-12 3-4 elements yagi seems reasonable compared to that, you can complete with a 10-6m 5-6 elements ?
yagis for 40 are huge and you need to put them really high, but if you can.. Or get those yagis with variable element length, can't remember the name, they are fucking expensive of course.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841163},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795478
Check the feedline, connections and antenna for water ingress. What are you using for a ground plane?","attachment":null,"posted":1714841201},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795486,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795478
you might have a short somewhere because of the rain, can you try to increase the insulation between the radiative element and the rest ? Maybe put some tape, epoxy to make it weather proof ?","attachment":null,"posted":1714841247},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795484
8 16.5ft radial wires","attachment":null,"posted":1714841266},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795488,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795482
>not a resonant antenna
Nta but log periodics are indeed resonant antennas. The elements used are resonant for their intended bands and optimized for amateur frequencies. Take one far enough out of band and you'll see swrs start to spike.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841319},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795492,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795482
>Or get those yagis with variable element length, can't remember the name
They're just multi band yagis or beams. Unless you mean a steppir that has motor control to move the elements. They're extremely expensive and require steppir software to use. They're also not self-serviceable.","attachment":null,"posted":1714841613},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795494,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795492
>steppir
thank you, it was that","attachment":null,"posted":1714841894},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795495,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476
If you have the tower that will support the weight and heft of the antenna, I say go for it. There are "better" options in the sense that there's higher gain options. A 4 band cubcal quad with full length elements will have significantly more gain, for example. It's also a 3d antenna and has a significantly bigger footprint and windload though. A smaller, lighter, cheaper option is a hexbeam, but they have much less gain and f/b rejection. Keep in mind, a log driven antenna like your pic needs height. It's like a big dog in an apartment. It needs a big yard to roam, so plan on 45-60ft of height to get the most out of that antenna.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714842337174066.jpg","filename":"Hexbeam tall.jpg"},"posted":1714842337},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795497,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795495
>4 band cubcal quad
Sorry, 5 band 4 element (per band).","attachment":null,"posted":1714842550},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795604,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there any point to an Icom R8600 if I also want a 7300 and 9700?","attachment":null,"posted":1714858725},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795614,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795604
A very expensive way to work spilts when contesting.","attachment":null,"posted":1714861776},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795616,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795614
I guess I should have explained a little more, I'd like to receive as many bands as I can, not just the amatuer services. I also want something that's a little more oriented toward receiving than my SDS200","attachment":null,"posted":1714862115},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"A CONTEST!
CQ CQ CFUCKINQ","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714864850615217.jpg","filename":"hammer.jpg"},"posted":1714864850},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795666,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795416
skill issue if you have a problem with their products. everything I've ever bought from MFJ has been top tier, the only people who hate MFJ are retarded fud boomers","attachment":null,"posted":1714873787},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795668,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795414
you need a ground wire for a random wire though don't you?","attachment":null,"posted":1714874015},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">he missed the Chad Repeaters","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714876121009740.jpg","filename":"chad repeaters.jpg"},"posted":1714876121},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795689,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795479
Your response is unnecessarily abrasive. The suggestions I was looking for did not have to relate to the radios I purchased. I'm just asking if there is anything within the hobby that might come up on my job that I can look into or research. I am trying to find something interesting that connects to my work.","attachment":null,"posted":1714878205},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795700,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795415
>>2795421
>>2795636
>>2795680
>I posted it again for the hundredth time
>I'm so smart and awesome","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714879669315414.jpg","filename":"0toXtras.jpg"},"posted":1714879669},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795717,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795394
How do you deal with whack jobs such as this guy?
https://youtu.be/kgniXHhBHfA?si=wujtZod7gA95a3mn","attachment":null,"posted":1714884317},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795720,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795717
>268 views
continue to ignore a literally who","attachment":null,"posted":1714885330},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795717
He keeps saying ground the antenna. Most antennas should NOT be grounded, unless utilizing ground radials. Balanced antennas aren't grounded nor are elevated verticals. The masts should be to prevent static. Your radio is grounded, but don't rely exclusively on your outlet for ground.","attachment":null,"posted":1714891086},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795736,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795689
>I'm just asking if there is anything within the hobby that might come up on my job that I can look into or research
Idk, you're the Motorola installation tech and you're also a licensed ham radio operator. Did they not cover this in your test? You don't know what the hobby is about? Anything radio, there's your answer.","attachment":null,"posted":1714891266},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795668
No. And as far as a counterpoise, the coax shielding acts as the counterpoise.","attachment":null,"posted":1714891723},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795818,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795394
I have a truck with tie down brackets I'm not using.
I like the clean look of these brackets - would it be crazy to get 2 - one for VHF and another for HF? seems like a logical design, but I can only find one manufacturer.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714919773175676.jpg","filename":"1000005466.jpg"},"posted":1714919773},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795825,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795818
Easier and better to use your whole roof as a counterpoise.","attachment":null,"posted":1714920459},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795825
we're back to sticking a 4 foot hf antenna on the roof of a truck cab?
It's an aluminum body and I don't want to do anything permanent.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714920635436402.jpg","filename":"1713476213022786.jpg"},"posted":1714920635},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795848,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795826
Ah, yeah that's why I mag mount. Parking garages just knock them over safely because of the mag mount, but it's strong enough for 110mph winds which is as fast as I'll ever drive my truck. You really do want a counterpoise for a vertical and the big metal body works wonders. Usually.","attachment":null,"posted":1714923224},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795717
what is blud yappin about
only in ohio...","attachment":null,"posted":1714931420},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795915,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795733
me personally, i wire a lightning arrestor inline with the coax directly to my cock and balls, so if lightning hits the antenna my ejaculate prevents any arc transmission
i call it a lightning rod","attachment":null,"posted":1714931567},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476
It works for the Vatican.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714931764948411.jpg","filename":"vaticana_2005_02.jpg"},"posted":1714931764},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795918,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714931894501339.jpg","filename":"vatican_4.jpg"},"posted":1714931894},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795916
That is impressive.
Up until the 2000's a lot of embassies around the world sported log periodics on their rooftops.
>>2795476
I've talked to a couple of HF LPDA owners over the years and they bought one so that they only have one antenna on the mast. Sort of a "buy one, now it's done" thing. The trade-off is mild gain when compared to monoband yagis with the same number of elements.
Personally, I like the looks of them.","attachment":null,"posted":1714936984},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795949,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795717","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714937681238319.gif","filename":"Capture.gif"},"posted":1714937681},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795953,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795944
>The trade-off is mild gain when compared to monoband yagis with the same number of elements.
Logs also have some of the most extreme examples of F/B rejection. He posted an optibeam, so I'll run a comparison with a similarly sized one.
OB11-5 / 45kg:
Bands 20 / 17 / 15 / 12 / 10
Gain (dBd) * 5,3 / 5,5 / 5,6 / 5,6 / 6,7
Gain (dBi) ** 12,7 / 13,0 / 13,2 / 13,4 / 14,5
F/B (dB) 22 / 22 / 20 / 19 / 19
----
OBDYA12-5 (image he posted) / 55kg
Bands 20 / 17 / 15 / 12 / 10
Gain (dBd) * 5,08 / 5,05 / 5,25 / 5,25 / 5,41
Gain (dBi) ** 12,1 / 12,5 / 12,6 / 12,7 / 12,9
F/B (dB) 26 / 27 / 35 / 27 / 29
So less gain but more F/B.
That's with a band optimized log. With a true log periodic like the OBLY16-5 we see this. / 80kg
Bands 20 / 17 / 15 / 12 / 10
Gain (dBd) * 5,4 / 5,4 / 5,4 / 5,4 / 5,7
Gain (dBi) ** 12,8 / 13,0 / 13,1 / 13,2 / 13,5
F/B (dB) 35 / 35 / 38 / 33 / 35
So, logs for good gain and amazing F/B, "mixed" yagis for better gain, less weight, and less F/B.","attachment":null,"posted":1714938360},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795955,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795700
I agree, we could use something new.
Should I bust the balls of those doing POTA or bust the balls of those busting the balls of people doing POTA?","attachment":null,"posted":1714938806},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795956,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795953
I'd argue logs look so much cleaner than this mess, so you have to decide if F/B or gain matters more. Especially since logs weigh more. An OB16-5 is even better and has less weight than the log posted above, as it's 75kg.
Bands 20 / 17 / 15 / 12 / 10
Gain (dBd) * 7,1 / 7,2 / 7,3 / 7,0 / 7,7
Gain (dBi) ** 14,5 / 14,7 / 14,9 / 14,8 / 15,5
F/B (dB) 18 / 20 / 22 / 24 / 20
In this case I'd almost prefer this yagi. Assuming price isn't of issue.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714938902367714.jpg","filename":"dbo-ob16-5_xl.jpg"},"posted":1714938902},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795969,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What's up with Japan flooding ebay with tons of cheap IC-706s?","attachment":null,"posted":1714939977},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2795996,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795956
>price isn't of issue
What would you recommend for under $800? Coax, antenna, and tower assembly included.","attachment":null,"posted":1714944081},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796002,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795996
Site prep for a tower is going to easily be over $1k.
>under $800 Coax, antenna, and tower assembly included.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714945153387416.jpg","filename":"idiot.jpg"},"posted":1714945153},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796008,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795996
Don't bother with a beam at all. Sure, you can make a hexbeam relatively simply with trial and error for under $400, and it'll be the same as any commercial variation. That said, ~50ft of RG8X, a rotor, and a homebrew mast would start pushing you well over $800. I'd suggest a multi band vertical or making/buying a fan dipole. A good 3-6 band fan dipole will be a sufficient antenna for almost anyone. You can easily make 3 30ft pushup masts, then put one fan dipole N/S and the other E/W, using the same center mast for both ends. Don't run them in series, just use 2 feedlines to the radio or a switch. That avoids the need for a rotor, and you can horizontally polarize both fan dipoles.
This guy did the same thing using a cage fan and traditional fan dipole. The beautiful thing is that the elements shouldn't interact much, so you can actually go 160-6m with the same dipole and feedline. In theory.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714945900853891.jpg","filename":"s-l1200 (1).jpg"},"posted":1714945900},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796011,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796002
You don't need site prep. You dig a hole 5x5ft, place your tower in, level the tower, and fill with bags of cement and a garden hose while tying the tower down or attaching it to a house, wall, etc. Make sure it's level before leaving it. I used to work for a tower install company and this is literally what we'd do, if you have the blueprint for your home or have an available copy you should know where water lines, septic/sewage, gas, etc run. If not, a survey only costs an additional $50 for us to call 811 and mark utiliy lines (a free service in the state). We actually used quikrete because most of the time we couldn't fit a cement truck on site. We did have a pickup with a 50 gallon water tank, however, as well as hundreds of feet of hose hookups.","attachment":null,"posted":1714946417},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796035,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796011
not him, but that's awesome.
I'd love to get a few acres and setup an antenna farm.
I was hoping with a ghetto harbor freight concrete mixer I could pull it off myself.
just gotta get land and maybe used towers.","attachment":null,"posted":1714949684},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796002
Another asshole who has no idea what he's talking about, cute.","attachment":null,"posted":1714984374},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796322,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Is there anything wrong with getting one of these mounts and sticking a 10ft pole in it on the roof and running a bolt through? Will it hold a 2 element 10m yagi?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715012421927729.jpg","filename":"roof mount.jpg"},"posted":1715012421},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796336,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795949
It's not that.
Him and this guy seem to think that having a ground wire going from the chasis of your transceiver to a ground rod outside your shack is a violation of the NEC.
Even if that rod is bonded to the house's main ground rod at the meter.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715014337245049.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-06-12-51-28-71_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg"},"posted":1715014337},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796337,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796011
>Just dig a hole, throw the tower in the bottom with some quickcrete and fill it with water
>Don't worry about settling, just tie it to your house
>Also fuck lightning/ground protection it's already in the ground right?
Concrete costs money
Digging costs money
Clearing land costs money
Water costs money
Guy lines + anchor points (more holes and concrete) cost money
Mounting plates and hardware cost money
The permit (or fine you are assessed later because of your freedoms don't need permissions) cost money
After the base is done,do you plan on waving a magic wand to assemble the tower and put the antenna up? I mean you're going for a beam/yagi, so you can just climb the tower with one hand and haul it up with the other. I guess you can use the magic wand to materialize the rotator, bearings, power cables, and the free coax too. I'm sure you'll be doing this over one weekend with the help of someone you paid with 2 cases of piss water.
>>2796206
Why would you call yourself cute, big boy?","attachment":null,"posted":1715015033},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796347,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796337
>Concrete costs money
$6/90lb bag, probably the least expensive construction material in the world
>digging costs money
A 5x5 hole is shovel work. Ask me how I know.
>clearing land
This really depends on the land. Open desert/dirt? No. Lots of trees/shrubs? Maybe. It's too major of a variable.
>water costs money
Least expensive utility. Filling a 5x5 hole is less than running a pool for a day or two.
>guy wires/anchor points
Most of what we did was free standing towers under 50ft for residential. Beyond 50ft yes you need guy wires. For some 30-40ft setups like a rohn 45 or heavier gauge tower, I suggest guy wires. Costs vary, but another 400lbs of concrete per anchor is under $30, the anchors themselves are like $10 each, and then the guy wires themselves depend on what you decide to use. 660ft of non-resonant Kevlar or Nylon braid with 6,000lb breaking strength was like $150 at the time. More than enough for what you'd need. Way more.
>Mounting plates and hardware cost money
We suggest digging the tower in as opposed to mounting to a mounting plate UNLESS you plan on a tilt over. As for rotors and antenna mounting hardware not included with the antenna for some reason, yes they cost money. In my experience antenna/tower mast mounting hardware can be purchased for $15 at your local hardware store. A rotor will always cost money, which is why I suggested an option to avoid it entirely.
>permit
Our city does not permit amateur radio tower installations. Ymmv. I suggest looking into what costs are, you may not need one under a certain height. You are still required to follow FCC guidelines on tower and antenna installation, and local code for grounding.
>last part about assembly
With a dig-in installation you should be able to climb the tower. Otherwise you're looking at a crane or bucket rental. These usually cost ~$100/day for a wheeled boom lift or bucket. A crane varies from $180-300.","attachment":null,"posted":1715016639},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796348,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796337
Continued, yes I have climbed towers during assembly. You may or may not need a bucket or boom lift after the first 10ft. It depends on the weight and size of the tower sections. Rohn 25g weighs 30lbs per 10ft, so 2 people with gear can and will climb the tower with individual sections to install them up to 30ft. Beyond that, you need a bucket or crane. I'd often climb the tower while the crane operator gets the section close enough to guide it in and bolt it down, even at 100ft. Someone needs to guide that fucker in and start running bolts. At 30 or 40ft, just climb it. I've free climbed them doing it plenty of times too.
As for labor costs, for some hams I'd do it for free, since they had helped me with my installation in the past. For company work most of our money was made on commercial jobs. On residential amateur radio jobs we'd only get like $150/day each for 3 people. My point though is that you don't need a professional crew to do it, I've erected a few 30ft towers and dozens of masts solo.","attachment":null,"posted":1715017014},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796374,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795700
>I posted it again for the hundredth time
we will never stop as long as this thread is continued.","attachment":null,"posted":1715020318},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796336
At first I thought he was trolling and would make the distinction between bonding and grounding, but he was dead serious.
I've spent some time exploring antenna grounding and adding grounding rods and how many and where I broke was tying grounding rods to grounding rods.
There's no magic added by tying together the grounding rod from my house to the grounding rod to my shed. And to my antenna - because by that logic my house's grounding rod must be grounding to all my neighbors' otherwise the entire infrastructure will be destroyed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715023223},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Are there any mobile radios that are particularly/slightly more weather and moisture resistant than others for outdoor base camp use","attachment":null,"posted":1715026603},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796415
You won't like my suggestion. Tait radios. Anything else is dogshit and asking for trouble. Also, good luck getting your hands on them.","attachment":null,"posted":1715027162},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796428,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796424
what was the point of purposely suggesting something you think I can't get
are you trying to be elitist or a faggot or what? what was the point","attachment":null,"posted":1715027431},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796428
I'm definitely being an elitist faggot. Honestly, I couldn't afford to get another one. I sold my hand held years ago. However, that is the correct radio for the job. Great radios, great features, stupid pricey.","attachment":null,"posted":1715027805},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796434,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796430
dude go be a faggot somewhere else if you have nothing to offer","attachment":null,"posted":1715028297},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796436,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796415
I'll give you some advice. When you take a motorola in for service as a construction crewman, that sucker is abused and CAKED in dust, dirt, concrete dust, and is exposed to moisture all the time. Unscrew the thing, take it outside and hit it with the garden hose. Then wipe it down and hit it with the hose again. Take it inside and put it on a glass or ceramic baking pan and throw it in the oven at ~200 degrees for a few hours. As long as the radio isn't on and the battery is disconnected, there's nothing to melt or get damaged at 200 degrees. In fact, the plastic they use for the mobo and shell is baked significantly hotter when cured to begin with. Knowing this, I no longer worry about super hardcore outdoor radios. The same applies to any HT. That said, an 8-10w HT (they do make them) with a massive battery will serve you just as well as most mobiles when connected to an external antenna. Worst case scenario just keep the thing in a ziplock bag.","attachment":null,"posted":1715028503},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796434
Get a tait. Actually I do have something to offer. See this anons comment:
>>2796436
A twenty five year old motorola would be a good investment too. When they say they don't make em' like they used to. Motorola fights in to that. They used to be great before they outsourced all the engineers to india.
Instead of water I would recommend isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy. More controlled.","attachment":null,"posted":1715029083},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796489,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796322
When your rotator weighs more than your antenna, it's time to rething your antenna choices","attachment":null,"posted":1715033874},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796496,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796322
>Will it hold a 2 element 10m yagi?
Mine holds a 25ft high 6-20m hexbeam with a medium duty rotor on top. If you have any doubts just throw another cement block on. Make sure the roof is supported too.","attachment":null,"posted":1715034556},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796533,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does anyone have a HF/VHF/UHF mobile radio recommendation? I'm considering a few
>IC-7100
Seems gimmicky
>IC-706
Serious contender
>FT-100
Seems like an overlooked good contender.
>IC-705
I'm not gay
>Yaesu FT-991A
No detachable screen","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715039770607049.jpg","filename":"amateur-radio-installed-in-car-1919.jpg"},"posted":1715039770},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796582,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796374","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715051741807872.jpg","filename":"dist.jpg"},"posted":1715051741},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796533
>gimmicky
How so? I have it, though I would use it more as a base station than mobile. Sure, it has it's cons like no internal tuner and no waterfall (and it's main unit is huge making issues for hiding it), but it's a decent rig.","attachment":null,"posted":1715060302},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796614,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796533
The FT-891 is small","attachment":null,"posted":1715064757},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796636,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796533
People who have a 7100 seem to love it, weird head arrangement and all. The only other one worth looking at is the Yaesu 857D.
The 891 is a super mobile radio but it's HF only","attachment":null,"posted":1715077692},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">/ham/
>never any pictures of their rigs","attachment":null,"posted":1715078356},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796640,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
it's OPSEC","attachment":null,"posted":1715078387},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796614
>FT-891
I have one as a backup. I considered added that to my car, but also want VHF/UHF for for safety reasons (not as a larping homosexual; if I forget my phone or it's dead and my car breaks down or ______, it'd be invaluable to hit a repeater and ask they make a phone call on my behalf).
I considered juggling 2 radios and splurging on a new VHF/UHF radio, but at that point I may as well spend a few hundred more and get one that does both. Especially when IC-706s are in the $400 range
>>2796636
Thank you. I confuse the FT-857D with the QRP FT-817
>>2796603
I have a IC-7300. The IC-7000 seems almost like a prior generation of that. Color screen, same button layout, etc, with the bonus of a removable screen.
For whatever reason, in-between those two models is the 7100 which looks like a big step back. Black and white, an odd, angled screen, and the buttons look as if it were made in China. To their credit they introduced the touch screen. I suppose I mean gimmickly in that I can see this is how it went at the ICOM business meeting
>we need something new
>anything!
>fine ... let's just make a bigger, angled headset and marketing can do the rest
I'm kidding/speculating, but I can see how that's how the IC-705 was born
>we marketed the IC-7100 and have some feedback.
>people like the head unit, but could we do away with the shoebox sized thing it's attached to? We don't think that's needed and it's a point of confusion.","attachment":null,"posted":1715084493},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796654,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796640
>OPSEC
So you are a larper then?","attachment":null,"posted":1715085186},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796655,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
Subscribe to my Youtube channel and you can see videos of me making ham radio contacts. It's better than porn.","attachment":null,"posted":1715085966},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796676,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796654
try harder fed boy","attachment":null,"posted":1715089694},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796680,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
2 people here have actual rigs, the rest use baomemes and rtl-sdrs with the mini rabbit ears as their primary antenna (indoors of course) expecting to dx on 80m","attachment":null,"posted":1715091187},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796682,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796676
this you?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715091270389878.png","filename":"How do I get off FCC Bad Boy List.png"},"posted":1715091270},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
CQ 70CM CQ 70CM CQ DE LU9AAA
Which is yours by the way?
>>2796680
>the rest use baomemes
Never let your friends vote s*cialist. Fortunately my shithole is crawling out of its shithole and I may be able to build some decent kit before the cycle is over.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715091875207638.png","filename":"untitled.png"},"posted":1715091875},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796686,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796685","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715092457187742.gif","filename":"shame.gif"},"posted":1715092457},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796692,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
I've posted my rig, antennas, etc numerous times. The other anon is right though, it's mostly baomemes and rtlsdrs. That's why an MSPaint of someone using a vertical random length end-fed to dx is circulating here, they've never tried better antennas. That's also why people are afraid to erect their own towers or masts.","attachment":null,"posted":1715095020},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796726,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796639
still remodeling my radio/computer room so doing some bed radio","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715102326543070.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240425_044342766_1.jpg"},"posted":1715102326},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796732,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796726
No mic?","attachment":null,"posted":1715103708},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796732
have a heil headset for it
was just doing receive since I don't have an hf transmit antenna up yet","attachment":null,"posted":1715103949},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796733
Oh, what antenna are you using then?","attachment":null,"posted":1715105309},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796744,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Ya'll are nerds, I don't need a license to use my baofeng.","attachment":null,"posted":1715107008},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796745,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796744
>nobody hears you
>nobody cares
As long as you stay off HF I literally could not give a single shit about you kerchunking repeaters all day.","attachment":null,"posted":1715107170},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796748,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"goofy ahh ham operators be like
>>nobody hears you
>>nobody cares
>As long as you stay off HF I literally could not give a single shit about you kerchunking repeaters all day.","attachment":null,"posted":1715107728},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796755,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796748
Stay gatekept loser","attachment":null,"posted":1715108407},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796824,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796744
Booffwang
FTFY","attachment":null,"posted":1715122101},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796744
Hi Randy!","attachment":null,"posted":1715122161},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796842,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796738
right now just a discone, which is surprisingly good at picking up 40m, getting ready to setup a wire transmit antenna, I would setup a beverage but my property is long and thin so it would probably be too close to the transmit antenna","attachment":null,"posted":1715124716},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796854,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796842
>discone
It works well if outdoors, but I've had discones before, a true blur resonant wire high up in the air will make it look and sound like shit. That said, they're neat antennas and work fine for shortwave stations.
What kind of transmitting antenna do you use? A beverage shouldn't interact if properly staggered.","attachment":null,"posted":1715126350},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796892,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796854
it's gonna be a long EFHW
I live on an acre but it's long behind the house so the wire is gonna be strung from a pole right behind the house over to a tree, wire will be running towards the north. If I did a beverage also going north I feel like it would be too close to it but idk. Could always do an east west beverage just to see what I can hear.","attachment":null,"posted":1715134004},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2796896,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796892
>I feel like it would be too close to it but idk
If it's >20ft away and 5 feet higher or lower, it shouldn't have any interaction at all. I'd also argue for a dipole of some sort, even a fan dipole.","attachment":null,"posted":1715135672},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Six meters is on fire right now into South America","attachment":null,"posted":1715200188},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797195,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795394
Do internet hate speech laws extend to HAM? Can you be banned from air?","attachment":null,"posted":1715200555},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Im doing practice test for my HAM test. I get circuits and then a question about it. Is there a program I can make the circuit in, or a way to get the answer out of chatgpt? I can't see if I've answered right after I submit my practice test.","attachment":null,"posted":1715201813},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797202,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797200
Country?","attachment":null,"posted":1715202008},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797205,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797200
ChatGpt is absolutely terrible for ham questions. It's almost like it's intentionally giving wrong answers now.
https://falstad.com/circuit/","attachment":null,"posted":1715202038},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797202
Sweden, so HAREC
>>2797205
It handles the easy shit really well, and I mainly use it to see if it agrees with what I've come to.","attachment":null,"posted":1715202156},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797206
It doesn't even handle making a halfwave dipole.","attachment":null,"posted":1715202299},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797216,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797206
>Sweden
Sorry, bud. I can't help other than save you a lot of replies of
>It's an open book test. Just memorize the answers
>What do you mean you aren't in the USA?","attachment":null,"posted":1715203280},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797218,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797216
Not open book. But the practice test questions online are the same as the ones in the real test it's just a massive pool of questions, where some are outside the scope of the open source book they recommend for studying.","attachment":null,"posted":1715203492},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797237,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795476
Look up Tennadyne. They make some less expensive logs, though I think their gain numbers are rather generous.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715206613706212.jpg","filename":"2988563954_c591792ac2_b.jpg"},"posted":1715206613},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797256,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Has anyone here done a DXPedition or - call me crazy - a remote DXPedition?
I've been hit by the bug to do so. I have an Extra ticket and can talk my wife into it if the QSLs cover a healthy chunk of the costs.
We both take a week of vacation. She chills on the beach or sightsees and I play radio.
Win win.
On a crazier level, it looks like you can rent a ham shack in Palau.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715211040845813.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-08 192924.png"},"posted":1715211040},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797262,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797206
>Sweden,
Wow I thought everyone itt was in the US. Midwest specifically. That's where most HAMs are per capita. (Can't prove this).","attachment":null,"posted":1715211913},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797287,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797262
Idaho reporting in","attachment":null,"posted":1715217486},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797288,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797200
ltspie","attachment":null,"posted":1715217685},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797318,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797205
This so much. It even admitted to me that its database is out of date when I asked it a question on a different matter.
>>2797216
If they didn't do this, we would have gotten our frequencies taken away a long time ago. It's the same with the no-code.
>>2797218
So similar to here in the US then? That helps out. Is there an app that will help out with it like here in the US? There's a bunch of them here that are so useful, and they do tell you if you got a question wrong.
>>2797262
No, I'm on the east coast US.","attachment":null,"posted":1715225365},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797256
Quite a few of my DXCC credits are for working "holiday style" DXpeditions. The best ones are the ones where the operators know how to work split competently. The ones where it's simplex and everyone is screaming over everyone else are a drag.
If you aren't a practised portable operator, do some SOTA or POTA first. Work out what you need to take and what you don't. Handling high QSO rates per hour is a learned skill too.
You can take a laptop and just leave it working FT8 while you relax on the beach for some extra lolz.","attachment":null,"posted":1715241419},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797402,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm converting my batteries, power supplies and radios to Anderson PowerPoles this weekend. I need to make a few pigtails. What is the preferred method, using separate wires or zip-wire?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715250926126419.jpg","filename":"51H4GKTLTyL._AC_.jpg"},"posted":1715250926},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797404,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797402
>using separate wires or zip-wire?
whatever you can find, both are ok, twin wire will be less messy","attachment":null,"posted":1715251554},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797408,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797402
I have a leads that are just single wires bonded together in glue lined heat shrink every foot or so. Easy way to make high current leads, bond 3-4 single wires per pole together in parallel, heat shrink them. That way you can use whatever wire you have in the junk box and not spend big on heavy gauge twin line.","attachment":null,"posted":1715252415},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797438,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796692
>That's why an MSPaint of someone using a vertical random length end-fed to dx is circulating here, they've never tried better antennas.
I just like my simplicity and not having to waste a lot of money to make the antenna jews more money when I make DX contacts just fine with my wire up a tree.","attachment":null,"posted":1715259672},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797486,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797438
You know you could make a resonant antenna without paying antenna jews? Oh, of course not you're not a real ham. You think a contact to Canada or Cuba is a dx contact.","attachment":null,"posted":1715268878},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797487,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797486
You know you can stop seething over someone not doing the things you want them to do? Oh, of course, you have autism. You think anyone who doesn't do what you do is not a real ham.","attachment":null,"posted":1715269067},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797490,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Tried to make this circuit in falstad but failed. My brain doesn't really comprehend what the two wires on the bottom go.
Left side is just straight from wikipedia.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715269665665803.png","filename":"im retarded help.png"},"posted":1715269665},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797491,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797487
*yawn*
Post antenna.","attachment":null,"posted":1715269686},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797493,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797491
*yawn*
No thanks.","attachment":null,"posted":1715269735},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797512,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"anyone know what program they use to do this?
It's some group that likes to mess with the russian buzzer stations","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715272833648310.png","filename":"Memes on buzzer.png"},"posted":1715272833},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797527,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797512
I have a program that'll do this, but they'd have to run some serious power for it to be this pronounced. I use Easypal. That said, you'd need great conditions and a very strong signal to do something like this, to this level of clarity, so they may be using commercial broadcasting equipment.","attachment":null,"posted":1715273949},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797529,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797527
the youtube channel I'm watching them on also adjusts his waterfall to make them look as good as possible with the prerecorded audio he's working with
but it' some russian shitposter messing with the russian mil
originally they didn't even really respond but now if they start playing music or rolling sstv on the freq the gov station just goes key down on the noise","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715274279659452.png","filename":"samples.png"},"posted":1715274279},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797530,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797529
Ah yeah, for recorded audio it's definitely easier to do. If you were to log into a US based SDR I could produce this on the waterfall, but it'd be harder to make out for sure.","attachment":null,"posted":1715274488},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797554,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797205
I imagine they've nerfed it to avoid liability suits. People have used it to do homework, write reviews, and some idiot even used it in legal proceedings and got his ass handed to him.","attachment":null,"posted":1715280315},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797562,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797554
They're nerfing it constantly, but still aiming to improve it so more people use it. It's very retarded.
Still I could ask it in Swedish how many coils I needed in my secondary loop in a transformer to get the right voltage and it did it correctly and showed work.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715282219170998.png","filename":"screen.png"},"posted":1715282219},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797566,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797562
Here I ask about the dipole and asking it to help you make a high power dummy load for a specific wattage will give more obviously terrible answers.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715282657371273.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715282657},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797570,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How many folks do this to their 12vdc input? Effective?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715283197643927.png","filename":"3042762952.png"},"posted":1715283197},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797571,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797566
It told me to use 2 pieces of 10.36meter. Unsure if this is good for 7Mhz since I literally know nothing.
It's all magic number math to sound smart anyway","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715283277277939.png","filename":"dipole.png"},"posted":1715283277},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797572,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797571
I mean, it's right to tell you to go longer than you'd expect so you can tune down.","attachment":null,"posted":1715283682},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797573,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797571
Are you sure that it said each side is 10.36meters? (correct)
In english it will always say each side of the dipole is 20meters or a similar logical fault (incorrect).","attachment":null,"posted":1715283955},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797575,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797573
In the image under "Material" "Two lengths of conductor (copper wire, coax or similar) with an approximate length of 10.36 meter each.
I wonder if there is an overabundance of Swedish radio material online compared to general English stuff vs English radio stuff","attachment":null,"posted":1715284105},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797643,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797570
Don't think that was done correctly.","attachment":null,"posted":1715295129},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"done a bunch of studying and my two practice tests so far for general are good. 83% the first time and 91% the second time a few hours later.
Gotta really pound it in there since I'm gonna be taking the test on a Saturday after being up 16 hours. Needs to be second nature.","attachment":null,"posted":1715330525},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797820,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797814
Be sure to take regular breaks. You can tire yourself out to the point where you get worse.","attachment":null,"posted":1715335911},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797824,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797820
it's Saturday the 18th so I have some time
Just sucks I work weekend nightshift
So I'll go to work Friday night at 5pm, work 12, get off at 5am Saturday then stay up till the 9am test. Then go back to work that night.","attachment":null,"posted":1715336811},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797824
Fellow midnight shift bro! Hope you do well on the test!","attachment":null,"posted":1715337790},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797827,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797826
Thanks
been doing it 8 years now
on the plus side on my days off I'm up at the good propagation times for 40m, already been listening to it at night","attachment":null,"posted":1715338004},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797848,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"was expecting a few more winds in this "2kw" 350w digital transformer for an EFHW 75-10m
lots of ferrite in there though","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715342712060312.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240510_115342822_1.jpg"},"posted":1715342712},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797849,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797848
triple stacked","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715342785376393.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240510_115401206_1.jpg"},"posted":1715342785},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797851,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797571
Don't trust that bullshit. ChatGPT is just a poor, re-written google search that hasn't been updated since January 2022.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715342899822655.png","filename":"d92e3b8a-2b15-4066-bf74-da796c207e67.png"},"posted":1715342899},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797864,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797827
I did that for the longest time on 80m and talking to some of the boomers in the region.","attachment":null,"posted":1715344891},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797849
The primary winding (the two twisted wire) should be at one end of the secondary winding, not in the middle. Who made it?
Also note use of typical cheap shit cap in a high wattage transformer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715349269},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797895,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797890
myantennas.com
Supposedly designed by a former cushcraft engineer
https://myantennas.com/wp/about-me/
guess we'll see how it performs once I have it strung up
here's a shot of the cap
says 121J 3kv TDK","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715349968982220.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240510_140408278_1.jpg"},"posted":1715349968},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797890
It doesn't matter where on the secondary the primary winding sits. People who make ununs usually wind the primary over the earthy end of the secondary, but it's not at all essential. The actual winding itself looks OK for the standard of something made commercially. I am glad MFJ have gone bust and they will not be inflicting their shit ununs on the world any more.
>>2797895
The cap is OK. The selection for a cap in that application is not just voltage, it is loss at the higher end of the spectrum. So 3kV is fine but it will depend on the materials in the capacitor how good it is at the top end.","attachment":null,"posted":1715352770},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797940,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797916
The primary is at the ground side electrically but the secondary is split. Dumber than a box of rocks and should be rewoumd Those cheap TDK caps are shit ESR performers at HF","attachment":null,"posted":1715356085},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797973,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Get ready for 6/2m skip this evening boys! Severe geomagnetic storms to start as early as 5pm Pacific.","attachment":null,"posted":1715362368},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797973
Interesting weekend indeed","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715363158482324.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715363158},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797976,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797973
>>2797975
https://www.spaceweather.gov/communities/space-weather-enthusiasts-dashboard
magnetometer already going berserk","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715363221055025.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715363221},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2797982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797975
>>2797976
yay for 6 meters? I can never keep K and A and the others straight","attachment":null,"posted":1715364949},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798032,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797975
>>2797976
A g4 is hitting tonight.","attachment":null,"posted":1715372391},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798061,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797940
maybe that's where the boomer secret sauce is
since they claim 75-10m no tuner required
https://myantennas.com/wp/product/efhw-7510-2k-plus/","attachment":null,"posted":1715376710},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798064,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798032
French fag here, saw some very faint aurora, that was nice, i guess radio conditions will be strange but maybe good for some bands ?","attachment":null,"posted":1715376783},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798076,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I was promised solar activity. WHERE IS IT?!
Everyone on Infowars today was going full blown Y2K over a few sunspots
>The Carrington Event melted all the electrical wires!
>Sun spots make people go crazy!
>If it doesn't happen ... the govt will use it as a false flag to do something and blame the sun!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715377485799321.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-10 174138.png"},"posted":1715377485},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798121,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798076
I also heard lu1wfu on 6m today. It's coming, give it another hour or two.","attachment":null,"posted":1715383655},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798122,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798121
I've been watching on ft8. There was a small window where I saw some South America and someone made a contact from Central America to Australia.
Otherwise it's all this very wideband, undecodable noise.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715384073594833.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-10 193226.png"},"posted":1715384073},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798127,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798122
What antenna are you using? 6m requires a pretty substantial beam. A thousand people were getting into SA.","attachment":null,"posted":1715384574},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798032
Now classified as a G5!","attachment":null,"posted":1715386030},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798139,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If I try to use my SDR or shortwave radio during this, is there a chance I could damage it?
I understand a bit about how solar storms affect HF transmissions, but this is the most serious storm that's happened since I've gotten into radio.
Is there anything you recommend doing to take advantage of this event? Anything fun I might regret not doing later?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715386671143956.jpg","filename":"20240510_201501.jpg"},"posted":1715386671},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798146,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798139
tfw left my SDR hooked up when I left the house for the night","attachment":null,"posted":1715387118},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798139
>>2798146
A power surge might damage electronics. That's about it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715387671},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798156,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798127
I'm the moxon goof. Been working 6 meters pretty hard the past week or two.
Either it's the conditions or I made a big goof I haven't found","attachment":null,"posted":1715387991},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798161,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798156
switched antennas and same woes","attachment":null,"posted":1715388570},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798167,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797490
It's a circuit. Think of U1 as a voltage source with the positive on top and the negative on the bottom, and U2 as a load modeled by a resistor.
Current flows from U1_top to the top-middle intersection to U2_top to U2_bottom back to U1_bottom. But there's also the flow from U1_top to top-middle intersection to bottom-middle intersection back to U1_bottom.","attachment":null,"posted":1715389885},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Would putting ferrite chokes on the coax cable running from the MLA 30+ to the power supply improve or degrade signal quality?
Should I only put ferrite on stuff like power supplies or thinks drawing a current?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715390519697994.jpg","filename":"1704837817414407.jpg"},"posted":1715390519},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798139
Came here to ask the same question.
I've got an RTL-SDR and was thinking about plugging it in to monitor activity locally (I'm trans btw, not sure if that's relevant or not).
I'm assuming the CMEs would shit out noise on all spectrums, so it wouldn't really matter what frequency I tuned into?
Also, would like to start discussion about EMF-protecting radio equipment. Would lining a box with alfoil actually work?","attachment":null,"posted":1715393190},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798174
>from the MLA 30+ to the power supply
From the antenna to the radio you mean? Or the radio to the power supply? You don't have your antenna connected straight to a power supply. Either way, ferrite beads don't do much on receive even in noisy environments. Better coax usually does what you're looking for. You could ground the radio and antenna which should bring noise down for low bands.","attachment":null,"posted":1715398577},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798220,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798174
>>2798219
Sorry, ground the radio and power supply*. Do NOT ground the antenna.","attachment":null,"posted":1715398638},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798233,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798139
>If I try to use my SDR or shortwave radio during this, is there a chance I could damage it?
Not at all.
>Is there anything you recommend doing to take advantage of this event? Anything fun I might regret not doing later?
You'll hear a lot of 'Dawn Chorus' emissions on ELF. Check out the VLF region for enhanced propagation.
Point a 6m yagi at the aurora and listen to the watery sounding CW signals. It gets weird. SSB might be too distorted to understand but worth a try. Swing the beam at different parts of the auroral curtain, some weird reflections can be had. One time with the beam pointed true north, we could hear stations to the south of us. Then minutes later we're getting sigs from Denmark for just a minute or so (over the pole). Then we're hearing JA's for a few brief moments.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715401771821775.jpg","filename":"yagi_Aurora.jpg"},"posted":1715401771},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"West coast Canada reporting. Right now (06:30 UTC) looking NW. HF is unusable.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715409522284793.jpg","filename":"4102024233421.jpg"},"posted":1715409522},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798261,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798259
Idaho reporting","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715410543746757.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240511_061854784.NIGHT.jpg"},"posted":1715410543},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798283,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798167
Thanks anon!","attachment":null,"posted":1715420604},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798295,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798233
>>2798259
>>2798261
Beautiful. I wish I didn't sleep all night","attachment":null,"posted":1715427300},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798320,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"HF is looking pretty barren
All I can see is FT8 & CW down on 40m
little hints of LSB on the net frequencies but nothing intelligible","attachment":null,"posted":1715434245},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798320
Yea,I'm not even seeing anything in the broadcast bands.Pretty crazy,I've never seen conditions this bad.","attachment":null,"posted":1715441699},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798373,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798320
7205 got some weird QRM OR QRB noises going on","attachment":null,"posted":1715442607},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798373
POTA in Florida. Trying to fight through the noise, but he gave up.","attachment":null,"posted":1715443745},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798390,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I didn't hear anything unusual on MW last night but SW seemed almost completely dead
I will try again today and tonight. Also it was cloudy where I was, so the towns adjacent to me enjoyed the Aurora while I didn't, which I'm extremely salty about.","attachment":null,"posted":1715447382},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798535,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone have a speaker recommendation for a mobile setup?
Never thought it was applicable, but I put the base in a lockbox in the back and that's where the speaker is. At max volume it sounds like a crying baby with a pillow over their face","attachment":null,"posted":1715471579},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798550,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798535
I used a commercial Motorola mobile mount speaker for years. But I did see one guy who used one of those little FM transmitters used to pipe music from an mp3 source into their car stereo system.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715474790731040.jpg","filename":"hsn4032_lg.jpg"},"posted":1715474790},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798959,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796337
WTF. A lot of people with land and a tractor probably have most of the supplies to do this type of shit by themselves","attachment":null,"posted":1715556000},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798961,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796347
On what fucking planet are boom lift and crane rentals that cheap","attachment":null,"posted":1715556062},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798961
That's what home depot charges for 4hr rentals.","attachment":null,"posted":1715556851},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2798989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798961
using a crane seems pretty dumb considering the heights most towns allow
I can only get up to 30ft without a special permit that requires me to prove it's technically necessary for successful amateur communication. 30ft is easily done with a gin pole","attachment":null,"posted":1715562176},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715599504070065.jpg","filename":"00H0H_jFOgrIQHmKm_0CI0t2_1200x900.jpg"},"posted":1715599504},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799122,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799120
better to die a boomer than live a zoomer","attachment":null,"posted":1715601072},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799125,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799122","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715601491066580.jpg","filename":"Hell.jpg"},"posted":1715601491},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799136,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So what's the deal with the spanish guys on 7.130? (and the rest of the AE part of the 40m band)
Cause I can hear them all day everyday with even the shittiest antennas
I know some people talk about the fishermen on 40m but I am absolutely no where near the ocean","attachment":null,"posted":1715603826},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799142,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm fascinated by radio, it's crazy to me that I can have an antenna up and hear all kinds being transmitted. What do you people do usually? Talk to random people? Or just curious about what's being transmitted at the moment?
Is there a lot of "crackers" in this hobby? I mean people who jailbreak radios and try to listen to LE frequencies and shit like that I'd enjoy that desu i know I sound like a fed now.
Me and my buddy have a baofeng walkie talkie that we take to the desert for camping but I want to do more than that, just want to learn more about the hobby before I spend too much.","attachment":null,"posted":1715605167},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799145,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799142
most radios don't have limits on what they will receive other than technical ones
SDRs can receive huge bandwidths
You can try to listen to LE but they generally use encrypted trunk systems these days
people have been listening to police frequencies as long as police have had radios
Now transmittitting out of legal bands is a whole nother thing, and has always been fairly easy to do. Boomers just needed different crystals or a VFO that went to those frequenices. Most modern ham radios to this day usually just require a simple hardware mod to generally remove a resistor to allow them to transmit outside of the USA amateur bands.
This is generally referred to in the US as WARC modding a radio. Also people that modded HF radios for 11m(CB), people using illegally high power amps.","attachment":null,"posted":1715605555},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799151,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799145
>transmitting out of legal bands is a whole nother thing,
yeah I'm sure I'll get caught in a second if I did that
forgot about encryption, that takes a lot of the fun out of it man
I am in Saudi Arabia and every radio device has to be registered on a database, is there like call sign based on the serial number or something?
actually how is the surveillance on radio in most countries? It might be fun to make a vulgar, not PC radio program out of my car I'm sure the government won't bother listening","attachment":null,"posted":1715606525},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799142
Most of the info you are asking for is in the OP text.
>>2799151
>actually how is the surveillance on radio in most countries?
It is monitored 24/7, and also by satellites - again the FAQ gives you details.
>It might be fun to make a vulgar, not PC radio program out of my car I'm sure the government won't bother listening
The Wullenwebers triangulated any HF emitter in a fraction of a second. Today, 40 years later, the tech is even better, faster and more precise.","attachment":null,"posted":1715610098},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799120
I wish I was born 200 years ago. This timeline is so miserable.","attachment":null,"posted":1715611111},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799239,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I was wondering if anyone else is like this:
I have my tech license and have had it over a year. Programmed old police VHF radios, chimed into local nets, made contacts on 10m, and other activities to keep the knowledge flowing.
I am studying and will likely pass my General this week before Hamvention, but realize that I still have a bit of trouble fully understanding some of the concepts on even the Tech. test.
Mainly in how certain antennas work, the electrical theories that go into radios and different setups in general and the math behind them.
Is it normal to be at this stage where I will pass my General but not fully grasp everything, and if so then I assume I will learn it through trial, error and actual use in the field when transmitting.
Thank you in advance.","attachment":null,"posted":1715622974},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799241,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799239
didn't read; learn how to write","attachment":null,"posted":1715623461},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799262,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799239
What are you doing? Just memorizing the question pool?","attachment":null,"posted":1715625530},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799263,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799239
>Mainly in how certain antennas work, the electrical theories that go into radios and different setups in general and the math behind them.
Time to dive head first into Maxwells equations. you will quickly find that many things are not intuitive.","attachment":null,"posted":1715625987},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799265,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799239
>I still have a bit of trouble fully understanding some of the concepts on even the Tech
Don't worry about it. I was in the same boat and thought it was me. It's not. A lot of the info in the tests is outdated. It's just like college in that you get a diploma and most of what you learn isn't applicable or in use.
It'd be more helpful if you mentioned what you're interested in or why you got into ham or why you're going for the General.
Knowing the test isn't knowing ham radio.","attachment":null,"posted":1715626119},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799241
Sorry, just threw up. Haha
>>2799262
Yes and no. I do know a lot of the equations from physics class and also basic electronics projects that I have done. I have Gordon Wests book and have been doing the HamStudy study sessions and tests.
So if I don't understand a concept I look at the explanations or go deeper into the GW book.
>>2799263
While I do know them, I do not know them 100% by heart and will keep a copy on hand and memorize.
>>2799265
>Don't worry about it. I was in the same boat and thought it was me. It's not. A lot of the info in the tests is outdated. It's just like college in that you get a diploma and most of what you learn isn't applicable or in use.
Glad its not just me.
I got into it originally because of going to the Dayton Hamvention as a kid and wanted to actually learn it as an adult. I want to go for General to understand radio concepts better, what works what does not, and be a better teacher for others in the same boat. Even with my limited knowledge, because I have a tech and am somewhat active in radio, a lot of people that I know that homestead ask me about radio stuff and try to ask for advice on where/how/why to get started.","attachment":null,"posted":1715627819},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799275,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799272
>what works what does not
That sounds like a 'hands on' type learning which I found after I got the tests behind me. Just pass and set your sights to the hands on activities of your choosing.
The electronics and theories are nice, but few people in the hobby are working on their radios anymore - let alone making one from scratch or replacing all the capacitors.
Back to your original point. If you pass and want to build a radio then find a tutorial and get your hands dirty finding what works and what does not","attachment":null,"posted":1715628600},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799284,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Interesting fan pattern I'm seeing on 6m","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715631359052194.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-13 161512.png"},"posted":1715631359},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799286,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799272
>While I do know them, I do not know them 100% by heart and will keep a copy on hand and memorize.
Memorizing is far from sufficient if you wish to understand this:
https://wiki.installgentoo.com/wiki/Study_Methods","attachment":null,"posted":1715631762},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799301,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799286
>If you don't know why the approximate forward threshold voltage of a germanium diode 0.3v, you can never play radio. NEVER!","attachment":null,"posted":1715633374},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799317,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799286
I build and sell antennas now, with really good reviews, and I just memorized the test for my general. I ended up learning most of the subject matter after getting licensed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715635363},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799322,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone hook a ham radio to a motorcycle?","attachment":null,"posted":1715635982},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799317
>>2799272
This is what I did. I was encouraged to do it by "Elmers" and VEs. When I sat for my technician exam they said go home and memorize the question pool and answers and come back. I got my extra ticket 2 weeks later. That was 16 years ago.
Their logic was to get you on the air now and then learn by doing hands on. I agree with this model.","attachment":null,"posted":1715637513},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799329,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799322
The closest I've considered is putting a metal plate in my top box, drilling a hole and running the antenna through the top and hooking a hand mic to my jacket or to the box with a reach-back. Then running headphones via Bluetooth and a small adapter into the helmet. It just wasn't good though, I wanted a larger ground plane even for vhf/uhf, and the antenna would be very high. It'd also run off a handheld ultimately anyway, because loading up my only storage compartment with radio shit is kind of stupid.
For HF operations I'm sure it's doable and reasonable to mount a 10m antenna to a big enough bike with radio hardwired to the battery. If you need your bike for commuting and running to the store though it's not really worth it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715637997},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799349,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799265
I wouldn't say it's outdated but it's definitely a little overboard. Gatekeeping for the sake of gatekeeping. Not that guy but I'm also studying for my general and it's only the more technical antenna questions I tend to fail at.","attachment":null,"posted":1715641251},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799353,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone here in the UK take part in the 145 Alive event on Saturday?","attachment":null,"posted":1715641828},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799378,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799239
I'm exactly the same. I got my general earlier this year when I had the tech for years. The ham radio guy in our community just had me memorize the questions and answers before he'd help me learn. He subscribes to the "the license is the license to learn" philosophy. I learn so much better actually doing instead of book learning.
Also, so far, I've barely applied even 5% of the concepts presented in the General.","attachment":null,"posted":1715647724},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I can say 40m is far from dead
threw up my EFHW at a very low height just to do some receiving (about 6 ft off the ground) and I'm picking up tons of code and SSB, was listening to 20m during the daylight hours and it was pretty busy too","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715655787909198.png","filename":"40m 5.13.24.png"},"posted":1715655787},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799424
and the cw portion is nothing compared to right now
wall to wall beeps and boops down there","attachment":null,"posted":1715656914},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799431,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799424
They just had a 70+ person OMISS net, 40m is fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1715657014},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799513,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm getting tired of this meshtastic shit that keeps going around on youtube as if it's the miracle cure-all for all comms.","attachment":null,"posted":1715679180},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799517,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799513
>meshtastic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715682125036067.jpg","filename":"8d6.jpg"},"posted":1715682125},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799540,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799513
Keep in mind everyone on /diy/ thinks ham radio starts and stops at their baofang, without ever needing to explore HF. Of course an unlicensed repeater is going to look good to normies.","attachment":null,"posted":1715691322},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799544,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799151
>actually how is the surveillance on radio in most countries?
lol I experiment between 400 and 500MHz on a daily basis up to 25W and nothing's ever happened. I really dont give a shit about getting busted.","attachment":null,"posted":1715692731},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799589,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"so when does 10m usually open up?","attachment":null,"posted":1715703702},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799640,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799513
If you're from /k/ the unironic answer to comms is analog security methods and old-school encryption because any kind of strange encoded signal floating around a battlespace will immediately become a priority for intelligence collection
Baofengs are unironically a huge equalizer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715709182},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799675,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799640
Anything you use will be found anyway. If there's military equipment and boots on the ground, they (being the US military) can track your vhf signal source within, quite literally, second. And no, I don't mean like old FCC fox hunts either. Back when I worked on Nellis someone tried (and severely failed) to jam ATC comms (which are analog) with F16s in the air. Within 2 hours they allegedly had feds at their door. This was all over the base, I'm surprised it didn't make the news, even the pilots talked about it. I guess they didn't want to give anyone else any ideas.","attachment":null,"posted":1715717512},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799676,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799675
>within, quite literally, seconds*
Plural seconds. Under a minute for sure.","attachment":null,"posted":1715717587},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799727,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799675
>Back when I worked on Nellis someone tried (and severely failed) to jam ATC comms (which are analog) with F16s in the air
idk about military planes but I heard passanger jets have direction finders to prevent spoofing
but yea, makes sense they will locate you quickly on a band that's used for something as important as ATC
if you wanna stay under the radar you have to use crowded license free bands like ism or pmr and blend in with the crowd","attachment":null,"posted":1715724211},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799728,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799540
Which is dumb. HF communication is extremely useful.
>>2799640
I'm not from /k/: i just don't really care about encryption. If I need security, I'd rather go through with obfuscation, which we don't need. The only reason why we use DMR is so we privately talk to others on the DMR repeater which is extremely rare anyway. Otherwise, if it's just everyone in the community, we just use the GMRS repeater.
Meshtastic looks more like a meme than anything else. I don't want to have another standalone unit or have it tethered to my cellphone and it's app. I have a DMR radio that does text if I need to text anything outside of cellphone like that cell outage a few months ago.","attachment":null,"posted":1715724279},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799812,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"goddam my local clubs 2m net is depressing
12 check ins and only like 4 of them did any roundtable discussion, started at 7 and ended at 7:30","attachment":null,"posted":1715736862},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799814,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799812
That's the norm of 2m and 70cm nets.","attachment":null,"posted":1715736975},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799817,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799814
was so terrible I didn't even bother checking in
wouldn't want to mess up the good old boys and their emergency larp","attachment":null,"posted":1715737185},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799821,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799817
It doesn't hurt to check in to get a signal report and practice if that is going to be your thing. But yeah, that's how most nets are on repeaters.","attachment":null,"posted":1715737944},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799821
eh, I was going to, will see I someone pops up on the repeater later
taking the general in a few days and I'll be on HF","attachment":null,"posted":1715738170},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799823,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799822
speak of the devil just had my first vhf contact right after I typed that
some guy testing his radio","attachment":null,"posted":1715738403},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799825,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799822
Nets on hf a very similar, but it's more interesting. An example is you may need to be a relay for another station checking in. You build our skills a lot better on them. Good luck on your general!","attachment":null,"posted":1715738473},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799826,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799823
Congrats on your first contact! There's plenty more to come.","attachment":null,"posted":1715738534},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799831,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799825
they actually had a relay during the VHF net
guy was still on simplex and couldn't open the repeater but one of the closer guys to him heard him. He figured it out by the end of the net. I haven't failed a practice test for the general yet so I think I'm gravy. My lowest is 83%
>>2799826
Thanks","attachment":null,"posted":1715739669},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799900,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"its called radio directing finding networking and it can triangulate your transmission automatically within nanoseconds, record the transmission and the location it originated from
RDFN/RDF is an essential part of any government's security in the modern age and all of them have this capability and have had it for many years unless they're still a third world shithole
there are even rdfn satellites and hardware for it mounted to shitty TV repeaters in the sticks
the military hardware for this is a backpack for live finding of hardware in the field, and theres a ton of vendors selling it for cars which works in conjunction with systems deployed on repeaters and cellphone towers
this is public knowledge and generally anyone you see in threads like these mentioning particular frequencies for you to transmit on illegally are employees in the agencies which monitor for jamming or unauthorized transmissions trying to get a bonus to their paycheck for finding you and you've been so kind to use their frequency they've told you to use to do this for them
just use a encrypted radio already you fucking retard its legal and you don't have to register on some public doxxing hub just to talk to your femboy friend across town","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715761688103531.jpg","filename":"1000003281.jpg"},"posted":1715761688},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799911,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799900
So we need a firmware for the qansheng something that does frequency hopping plus encryption","attachment":null,"posted":1715766204},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799917,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://youtu.be/-UEsijMddyE
https://youtu.be/jMd02w4v9rY
https://youtu.be/H8UXhyHgpm0
https://youtu.be/zxlDVubnbwM
https://youtu.be/QIGAOLJh-XE
cop cars also have a rdfn in them, vehicle tracking lojack and the backdoors in intel, amd, and arm cpus","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715767576539080.jpg","filename":"1688485626554367.jpg"},"posted":1715767576},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799920,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799917
>TCI Blackbird NextGen HF Detection, Intercept and Direction Finding
everything between 2 and 30 Mhz, fuck","attachment":null,"posted":1715769277},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799924,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799911
Did you really believe that frequency hopping (even with spread spectrum) is enough to evade RDF in the year 2024??","attachment":null,"posted":1715769600},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799927,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799727
>idk about military planes but I heard passanger jets have direction finders to prevent spoofing
Not sure what this means. DF is used to find teh bearing to known radio beacons as a way of navigation, an alternative to using GPS. I have never heard they use DF to locater jammers.
And it would be easier to place the GPS antenna at the top of the aircraft so that emitters on the ground cannot reach the antenna.","attachment":null,"posted":1715770227},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799932,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"https://www.tcibr.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/TCI-850.pdf
>the suv with a rooftop luggage concealment of the antenna
lmao","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715771980380412.png","filename":"1697136423016711.png"},"posted":1715771980},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799937,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">seven threes","attachment":null,"posted":1715774361},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799964,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"any dummies guide to identifying digital and analog modes?
I've been looking at signal wiki but some of the modes I see pop up on the HF bands I have no idea what they are.","attachment":null,"posted":1715780654},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799965,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799964
although I just IDed one I heard last night
it was Contestia
for some reason it started at the bottom of the 40m band, transmitted, and kept doing that until the end of the band. It avoided any occupied frequencies and the FT8 containment zone.","attachment":null,"posted":1715781139},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799969,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799965
although it could have been Olivia since listening to the samples I can't tell the difference between them","attachment":null,"posted":1715782531},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799979,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"LOTW has been down all morning","attachment":null,"posted":1715788018},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2799989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799900
the governt can definitely locate you quicky but I know from experience that they wont waste their time on a random faggots talking on an illegal frequency unless he manages to jam their communications
I know of only one person who got vanned and he was drunk and yelling SOS on marine frequencies","attachment":null,"posted":1715789724},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799964
Go big:
https://i56578-swl.blogspot.com/","attachment":null,"posted":1715796155},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800094,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715807348250610.jpg","filename":"ARRL_Field_Day_2024_590x315.jpg"},"posted":1715807348},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800094
>green and red
>Palestine colors
>very ugly, unidentifiable mystery meat
I've found a disproportionate number of jewish hams. It'd be a hoot to spin this as a the ARRL is subtly anti semetic","attachment":null,"posted":1715807982},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800135,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799964
This >>2800027","attachment":null,"posted":1715812225},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800162,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800094
I have never seen a black ham in my life but I'm not in the US. I've been at the big ham fest in Friedrichshafen and it was all middle-aged and elderly white men. Not that I would mind having black men among us.","attachment":null,"posted":1715818800},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800182,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800162
>Not that I would mind having black men among us.
OH8STN is on youtube. He's decent, but pic related.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715820133588807.png","filename":"1634331068817.png"},"posted":1715820133},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800184,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800162
What about gay hams? Heard any of those?
You know those rules where they carve out parts of the spectrum for specific for specific things (e.g. no FSK), well they’d probably want to make some of those guidelines like for pitchers and catchers since they’ll be using radios to find each other like fireflies in the night.
There should also be some trans-only bandwidth allocated. They should take AM radio off-line (after which they will crank up cell data plan rates, spotify rates and make everything pay only with ten times the ads, and make you pay a federal emergency alert fee) and assign it all to the trans community.","attachment":null,"posted":1715820176},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800203,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800162
There are tens of millions of blacks in the US, there are bound to be some, even if they aren't super visible. There are quite a few high school students who get their tech licenses because it's part of a school program, several of those are visible minorities in the photos, even if they don't pursue it as a hobby outside of the classroom they still count","attachment":null,"posted":1715822813},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800232,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800184
they definitely exist","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715828242813151.jpg","filename":"HAM_butgay3.jpg"},"posted":1715828242},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800329,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799353
I didn't do this one but I've done them previously. I hear the one last weekend was a clusterfuck because of tropo","attachment":null,"posted":1715856398},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800335,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Sup guys. For an uni assignment my group is doing a tracked command post for our army (Spanish Army). I've found some antennas, transceivers and powers generators for our vehicle, but would like to know what would you guys use. The frequency band is from 30 MHz to 3GHz cause that's the frequency range of our army's radios. So far we've been using L3Harris, Codan and Sentry for transceivers and TRIVAL ANTENE and HASCALL-DENKE for antennas. Any antennas (both directional and omnidirectional) and transceivers would be appreciated. Preferably with access to good documentation.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715858163864006.png","filename":"1697912592312316.png"},"posted":1715858163},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800365,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800184
>If you ever transmit on X.690, you're officially gay
Nothing personal, homo
>>2799979
Still down
>>2800335
>tracked command post
Want to elaborate? Is it a circle jerk thought experiment? If not, are you just receiving? If not, how do you plan on being authorized to transmit on military frequencies? Encryption?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715863804680697.png","filename":"Pride+Radio+Group+Logo+long.png"},"posted":1715863804},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800373,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800335
You can find these antennas on modern military vehicles","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715865621080953.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715865621},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800375,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800335
the double radiating element is for bandwidth","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715865683540685.png","filename":"file.png"},"posted":1715865683},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800376,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800335
for example :
https://www.tserecon.com/products/vehicle-hf-loop-antenna","attachment":null,"posted":1715865752},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800379,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800335
There are alot of variables missing here. LOS point to point communications or a network? Terrain? You sending data? Voice only? Frequency Hopping?
Military units have S2 Commo Officers that coordinate frequently management with both higher and subordinate units.","attachment":null,"posted":1715866578},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800407,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"looking at an interface for setting up digital modes on my FT-1000MP
so far I've looked at the rigblaster advantage and the Signalink USB
I'm already setup for CAT control over a usb to serial adapter so I don't really need that feature of the rigblaster but it would help consolidate. Only problem is the rigblasters are backordered until late this year
I also saw the Microham microkeyer 3 but that's a little over the top
just the prebuilt db37 cable for the radio connection is over $100","attachment":null,"posted":1715870926},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800414,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800407
>FT-1000MP
Check out XGG Comms. I have one of their units for the 891","attachment":null,"posted":1715872311},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800415,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"LOTW is down!
>!
LOTW is down
>n!
LOTW is dow
>wn!
LOTW is do
>own!
LOTW is d
>down!
LOTW is
>s down!
LOTW i
>is down!
LOTW
>W is down!
LOT
>TW is down!
LO
>OTW is down!
L
>LOTW is down!
LO
>OTW is down!
LOT
>TW is down!
LOTW
>W is down!
LOTW i
>is down!
LOTW is
>s down!
LOTW is d
>down!
LOTW is do
>own!
LOTW is dow
>wn!
LOTW is down
>n!
LOTW is down!
>!","attachment":null,"posted":1715872349},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800417,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800407
Have you looked into DigiRig?","attachment":null,"posted":1715872461},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800420,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800415
Been down 2 days. Better that it goes down now than right after a major contest when everyone is uploading fuckloads of QSOs.
LOTW is maintained on an Commodore 64 I think","attachment":null,"posted":1715873181},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800422,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800420
It must be a respectably sized database ... which bluntly is their main purpose for existing. If it wasn't backed up ... lmao","attachment":null,"posted":1715873622},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800423,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800422
Maybe the solar flares over the weekend took it out","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715873701384037.jpg","filename":"5eb013e4e2e33_Pepe-Popcorn.jpg.192ca01f027a34707112617b1e75d8a4.jpg"},"posted":1715873701},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800426,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Can someone turn on 6 meters for the US? Thx.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715874453459215.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-16 114630.png"},"posted":1715874453},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800427,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800414
>>2800417
thanks I'll check them out","attachment":null,"posted":1715874642},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800471,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800365
>Want to elaborate?
Our army is replacing the M113 with VAC (Vehículo de Apoyo sobre Cadenas (Tracked support vehicle)). VAC hull is just the modernized hull of our IFV the Pizarro and a cousin of the hull of the new US Army light tank/assault gun M10 Booker. We say the program and decided to do our own command post version for the assignment. Piprel is mortar carrier version.
>Is it a circle jerk thought experiment?
Yeah, it's an uni assignment. Calculating uplinks, downlinks, attenuation loss, maximum transmission distance, etc.
>If not, are you just receiving?
Both, receiving and transmitting
>Encryption?
We are on our second year so we haven't worked with encryption yet but it would be nice for the project if the equipment could support it.
>>2800379
Omnidirectional broadcast for voice and data communication with soldiers and directional broadcast for between command posts to avoid detection. No LOS required. The terrain we use are both open fields and a mid sized city since our work project includes an urban deployment.
>Military units have S2 Commo Officers that coordinate frequently management with both higher and subordinate units
Do you have more about this? I've been working with this:
https://armypubs.army.mil/epubs/DR_pubs/DR_a/pdf/web/ARN17840_TC%206-02.1%20FINAL%20WEB.pdf
>Frequency Hopping?
We plan to do sectorization","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715885789718571.png","filename":"1693291136989502.png"},"posted":1715885789},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800478,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800471
>say
saw*
>Piprel
picrel*","attachment":null,"posted":1715886901},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800492,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800471
>it's an uni assignment
What's the class and this is strictly paper pushing, right? Thought experiment? No 'lab' where you try to do any physical testing?
Not being a dick - just a big difference between talking about transmitting on unauthorized frequencies and making an effort to do so","attachment":null,"posted":1715888493},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800495,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800492
>What's the class and this is strictly paper pushing, right?
The subject is Telecommunication Systems and Services. Yes, a thought experiment would be a way to convey it.
>No 'lab' where you try to do any physical testing?
Correct
>Not being a dick
Dw dw","attachment":null,"posted":1715888659},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800514,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800471
I'd read FM 11-55 Mobile Subscriber Equipment (MSE). It'll give you a good idea of system architecture.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715891572213258.gif","filename":"image41.gif"},"posted":1715891572},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800524,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800514
Will do","attachment":null,"posted":1715893404},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800577,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"so when upgrading from tech to general the FCC doesn't charge the $35 unless you're changing call signs right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715903111},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800426
I'm in Europe, with 2 6M radios but no antenna. sadface.jpg","attachment":null,"posted":1715905047},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800591,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800586
I know how a gypsy would resolve this problem","attachment":null,"posted":1715906244},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800659,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800426
I got a 1,000 mile ssb contact on 6m today around 5pm pacific. Working fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1715923030},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800407
I have a Rigblaster Advantage for my FT-847 because the radio doesn't do true FSK, only AFSK and it has a funky/faulty CAT system which complicates using data modes. The Rigblaster line came highly recommended for this radio because it simplified the cabling issues and is a quality unit. I lucked out when, after a couple of weeks researching and deciding I wanted the RB Advantage, 4 days later a guy 1 town over put his up for sale. Near mint, original box, docs, etc for $125 CAD. Even better, it came with the Yaesu cabling I needed.
Only used it a few times on RTTY, of all places on 440 MHz FM.","attachment":null,"posted":1715939076},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800705
very nice
I pulled the trigger on the digirig mobile and for the price I don't think I'll go too wrong.
$96 for the digirig, cables, and shipping","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715945937007015.png","filename":"Digirig for FT1000MP.png"},"posted":1715945937},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800733,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"LOTW is dead!
>!
LOTW is dead
>d!
LOTW is dea
>ad!
LOTW is de
>ead!
LOTW is d
>dead!
LOTW is
>s dead!
LOTW i
>is dead!
LOTW
>W is dead!
LOT
>TW is dead!
LO
>OTW is dead!
L
>LOTW is dead!
LO
>OTW is dead!
LOT
>TW is dead!
LOTW
>W is dead!
LOTW i
>is dead!
LOTW is
>s dead!
LOTW is d
>dead!
LOTW is de
>ead!
LOTW is dea
>ad!
LOTW is dead
>d!
LOTW is dead!
>!","attachment":null,"posted":1715946628},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800737,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800733
>We are in the process of responding to a serious incident involving access to our network and headquarters-based systems. Several services, such as Logbook of The World® and the ARRL Learning Center, are affected. Please know that restoring access is our highest priority, and we are expeditiously working with outside industry experts to address the issue. We appreciate your patience.
>we are expeditiously working with outside industry experts to address the issue
>responding to a serious incident involving access to our network and headquarters-based systems","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715947494136767.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-17 080321.png"},"posted":1715947494},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800738,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800737
>ARRL was hacked
can only imagine what a walk in the park that was for them","attachment":null,"posted":1715947702},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800737
>oh God! Not the ARRL Learning Center! Think of the children! Dave Casler's comments and magazine articles from the 1970's aren't accessible on ARRL.org. Now I can only find the same thing on YouTube and Internet Archive","attachment":null,"posted":1715948147},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800746,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800586
>>2800659
It opened up later in the afternoon for me. Fiji (7,500 miles) and New Caledonia came through around 6pm. I was fussing here around noon.","attachment":null,"posted":1715949565},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800758,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How many of you window lickers are at Hamvention this weekend?","attachment":null,"posted":1715952103},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800799,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I have to write a stupid letter for work. Would someone peer it for me?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715959435971391.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-17 112230.png"},"posted":1715959435},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800800,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800799
what was I thinking?!!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715959531897946.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-17 112501.png"},"posted":1715959531},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800827,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800800","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715965057027559.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-17 125709.png"},"posted":1715965057},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800827
Day 3 is in the books.
RIP ARRL.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715976553293791.jpg","filename":"663fc606456d9f771c1bb7fc_day-3.jpg"},"posted":1715976553},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800919,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey, /ham/, it's been a minute.
Does anyone have a mobile install? I have a surplus FT-8900 and a surplus FT-891.
I don't drive too much, but it'd be nice to have a radio to tag along. HF on long trips and VHF for local stuff.
The 891 would require running another cable for the microphone headset.
That shouldn't warrant buying one radio that does both, but the idea of juggling 2 headsets and 2 bodies and a tuner makes me start leaning to something like an ic-706 or ft-100d or ic-7000 - all of which are 'well aged'","attachment":null,"posted":1715980656},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800928,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800919
Do an 891 and supplement with a baofeng hooked up to an external antenna. Take it out when you don't need it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715981366},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800937,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800890
Paper and pencils exist, fagboy.","attachment":null,"posted":1715982526},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800937
I usually upload to qrz first anyway.","attachment":null,"posted":1715982922},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2800982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800944
l was listening to a ragchew the other day where boomers were flexing their fancy qrz pages
they actually pay graphics designers to make big text filled images for their profiles.
It's like Myspace over there","attachment":null,"posted":1715992800},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801050,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800184
>There should also be some trans-only bandwidth allocated.
I've tried proposing this to our Government's communication authority.
The problem is that they weren't willing to allocate the several bandwidths (one for each color of the LGBTi flag) that I requested.
It might surprise most here but, even in 2024, systemic bigotry still exists.","attachment":null,"posted":1716010142},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801054,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801050
flood the airwaves with femboy cum and monster energy y","attachment":null,"posted":1716011948},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801080,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795818
>I have a truck with tie down brackets I'm not using.
Average 'murican truck user.","attachment":null,"posted":1716021643},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799927
some moron decided to broadcast fake signals from the ground that would cause aircraft to crash and made a blackhat conference talk about it
basically he made 4 fake aircraft guide the real aircraft into the ground through adsb anti collision
so what anon meant is they now have to verify the signal came from the air and not the ground","attachment":null,"posted":1716029016},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801107,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801054","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716031011722018.png","filename":"Furrys on the airwaves.png"},"posted":1716031011},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801122,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"so why are digital voice modes on vhf/uhf tolerated?
shit doesn't seem very open source to me
dumb manufacturer lock in bs the boomers have bought line and sinker, half the repeaters in my area are fusion and the analog ones are dead as a doornail","attachment":null,"posted":1716034613},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801180,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800827
Still down.
Get your field day merch!!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716045673994719.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-18 112025.png"},"posted":1716045673},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Arkansas QSO Party","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716045845080329.gif","filename":"1636449585315.gif"},"posted":1716045845},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801185,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801180
I'm getting closer. I hope you all send the final version to Rick today or Monday. I'll pay for your stamp.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716046216989261.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-18 112932.png"},"posted":1716046216},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801185
ironclad","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716047368975237.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-18 114910.png"},"posted":1716047368},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801209,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Passed the the HAM exam!
I wanna thank chatGPT and their new 4o model which lets you upload images of circuits and it can tell you what it does.","attachment":null,"posted":1716048483},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801212,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801209
you too? Just passed my general today
boomers must all do the tests on the same days
I didn't even get any of the circuit diagram questions","attachment":null,"posted":1716048613},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801216,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801212
Congrats! Here in Sweden the local clubs either have planned test days. Or you contact the club and ask when one of authorized test givers are willing to schedule a test for you.","attachment":null,"posted":1716048843},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801198
Does anyone else remember a simpler time when the ARRL stuck to mailing us furry stories?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716048986953856.jpg","filename":"1000005597.jpg"},"posted":1716048986},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801241,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801219
November was a simpler time. Back when we had QST and a LoTW database.
Who knew how well we had it back then?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716050408297433.png","filename":"10245547788.png"},"posted":1716050408},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801242,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"who had 'data breach' on their 2024 ARRL bingo card?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716050878951745.jpg","filename":"1000005599.jpg"},"posted":1716050878},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801269,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801219
The ARRL has gone insane. I heard it was bad working there, but he's a madman.","attachment":null,"posted":1716056478},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801283,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Anyone having a good time at Dayton?","attachment":null,"posted":1716058289},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801295,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801219
After this incident they're going to turn to a monthly subscription fee for the LoTW service.","attachment":null,"posted":1716061505},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801298,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801219
I can't fit another word on the paper","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716062017653002.jpg","filename":"IMG_20240518_143039.jpg"},"posted":1716062017},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801399,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"wonder how long it will take my upgrade to appear
when I walked in the testing area one of the VEs was explaining to the others some stuff and mailing got brought up so I'm not hopeful it's gonna be the fast way.","attachment":null,"posted":1716075627},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801400,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801399
It'll most likely be later, but you can add a suffix with your callsign and operate in the extra bands in the mean time e.g. W1CUM/G or N1GR/AE","attachment":null,"posted":1716075789},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801441,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801400
I did read that
seems a pain on voice though, since the little signed slip they gave me after I passed the test says you're supposed to say temporarily AG which is a mouthful compared to CW where it's just /AG","attachment":null,"posted":1716082154},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801443,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801441
It maybe, but it's only for a short period. The best thing is you have your privileges now and others will notice and congratulate you on it when you are on the air.","attachment":null,"posted":1716082377},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801446,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801443
true, been jonesing to get on 40m, had been trying to get out on the tech voice part of 10m but I always miss any openings.","attachment":null,"posted":1716082727},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801446
I should really learn CW
that'll be my next goal I suppose","attachment":null,"posted":1716082793},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801450,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801446
The good thing about 40m is that even during the day, you can sometimes talk locally. Some of our regional nets take place during the day and I can still get out and check in. It's just harder. At night when it truly opens up, it is so much better. Also, if you make a simple dipole for it, it's not excessively insane length like with 160m and 80m.
>>2801447
CW is something I really need to sit down and learn. I never bothered since I always focused on digital modes, with only using voice to check into nets. I'd do it just for the skill of being able to listen in and maybe pass some traffic if I ever need to.","attachment":null,"posted":1716083058},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801455,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801450
I work nightshift so even my days off I'm up all night. I've been listening to some nets. Cowboy net and the HHH net are ones I can remember. Also damn 40m has a lot of Spanish on it.","attachment":null,"posted":1716083656},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801456,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801455
Are you the other midnight shift bro I was talking to not too long ago? There are some good nets too on 80m. I used to check into the Early Bird Net here on the east coast where I'm at. After a few months of only being able to bring my radio into work, I just got tired of and I don't really want to remote in.
What is your current antenna configuration? That may have a factor in how you are receiving. Mine is just a sloped random wire which does receive a bit from Spain and sometimes I hear French, but it's not that great as random wires tend not to be the best antennas and I really just want to focus on regional stuff for emcomm purposes. I'm able to reach voice on 20m with it, but it's extremely hard for them to copy me even with 100 watts. If you want to DX, I don't recommend random wires like >>2795414. It works, but it's horrible.
Anyways, I got work so I got to get going. Have a good night, midnight shift bro!","attachment":null,"posted":1716084356},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801458,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801455
>damn 40m has a lot of Spanish on it.
kill them.
Kill them all.
Won't be long before that's the main language.
Please make it stop.","attachment":null,"posted":1716084494},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801459,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801456
probably, been around the last couple threads
guy with a ft1000mp
at the moment it's an EFHW 75-10m like 10ft off the ground since I was just receiving
Gonna get it up about 20-30ft in the next couple weeks. I have heard this one Australian guy but I could hear him on a discone antenna.
The guy I bought the radio from had made it over to Russia before with just an EFHW 20ft over his driveway","attachment":null,"posted":1716084826},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801461,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801458
Just keep tuning up on top of them","attachment":null,"posted":1716084885},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801464,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801458
some are pirates but some seem to have call signs, not really sure, I can't really tell the difference
they seem to hang around the AE section of 40m and the high end of 40m just below the AMers","attachment":null,"posted":1716084908},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"what's our designated 4chan calling frequency?","attachment":null,"posted":1716132176},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801602
148.800 lsb","attachment":null,"posted":1716132537},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801602
7.200Mhz","attachment":null,"posted":1716132770},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801602
27.025","attachment":null,"posted":1716132831},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801621,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What are we at? Day 5?
Were there any Dayton ARRL events they had to cancel?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716135690731131.png","filename":"Here Lies Spongebob Tombstone .png"},"posted":1716135690},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801625,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801621
>I bought a kink book at hamfest","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716136152266995.jpg","filename":"IMG_2477.jpg"},"posted":1716136152},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801647,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716139690279611.jpg","filename":"1000005628.jpg"},"posted":1716139690},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801650,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I will staying for some time in my family property which doesnt have internet, but a phone connection via a 4g log antenna. They dont want to put internet in, so i was thinking if i could just split the antenna terminal in two, so both the current phone system and my 4g router can use it. Does this makes sense? i am worried about possible destructive interference, and i am unsure if this two way communication can be done that way
so is a cavity splitter what i should be looking for? like this https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002013374770.html
i have never dealt with two ways rf comunications, i just listen in summer to the emergency services to know where are the fires","attachment":null,"posted":1716140288},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801652,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801461
I do when they're nearby. They're so obnoxious. Even on the radio. They act like a melatonin encrusted cb-ers.","attachment":null,"posted":1716140305},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801653,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801650
I had 20mb/1mb on an old copper phone line. Far from ideal in America for AT&T.
I basically did what you want to do. 5G Verizon which is just a 3G/4G/5G wireless router. 300mb.
The wireless blows, but all my devices are hardwired.","attachment":null,"posted":1716140507},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801609
based
7.200 gang","attachment":null,"posted":1716165360},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801873,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">oh shit
>oh fuck","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716166323411616.jpg","filename":"1000005642.jpg"},"posted":1716166323},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801913,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"just made my first hf contact
honestly surprised since my antenna is just an EFHW with the transformer at about 19ft and the end of the antenna roped off to the luggage rack of a suv so maybe 7 ft with the droop
was only about two states away but he came in good and was the nicest
temporarily AG seems to be the ticket","attachment":null,"posted":1716171198},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801916,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801913
Now you see that it is not as complicated as those tests and sad hams make this out to be. Enjoy the hobby! Sure, you can get better results with all the other fancy antennas, but for now and making basic contacts while getting experience, this is all fine. I'm glad you are enjoying the benefits of being a new general class ham!","attachment":null,"posted":1716171569},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801922,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801916
I didn't find the test that hard but I already work in a technical field, I'm an industrial automation tech.
Just amazed that my ghetto antenna setup works
down towards the end I can barely walk under it
can't imagine how much rf I'm dumping down into the ground
I also ran into a I'm guessing PNW 80m net but it sounded like my local vhf net where they check in and say whether their on emergency or commerical power. Didn't hear what organization or club they were so I let them be.","attachment":null,"posted":1716172048},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801944,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801922
It is amazing, isn't it? It's why I tend to stick to my set-up: it's just so simplistic. Sure, it's nowhere near the best, but damn, is it effective for what I do.","attachment":null,"posted":1716175577},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2801982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801916
go back faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1716180418},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802033,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"lol I keep forgetting to give signal reports
had to look up what the numbers mean
that's what they should put on the test","attachment":null,"posted":1716193241},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802037,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"also what's good logging software to use?
I'm not chasing awards or anything right now just need something","attachment":null,"posted":1716193547},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801982
Sad hams gonna sad.","attachment":null,"posted":1716193842},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802037
There's lots of options, a lot of them open source. I started out not logging, just wanted to learn and look people up. I'm probably retarded for doing this but I use a slightly modified version of https://blog.radioartisan.com/fcc-callsign-database-script/ which works offline and is dead simple just to check callsigns and locations. Using this I made a shell script where I type the callsign, hit enter, then 2 numbers for the RST (well, just RS), enter again and I'm ready for another call sign. If I push 'n' instead of a RS number I can take a note(if I miss the sign and no name pops up I note the ? where I think I missed it. Or if there's something interesting), hit enter, then RS number to finish. This is dumped into a CSV with a timestamp and displayed. If there's a dupe sign it brings up the timestamp and notes from last time.
Again, there's probably a better way if you're trying to be official and upload signed QSO files.
I just like journaling my local ham nets, and what each ham is up to / talks about so if I talk to them again months later I'll remember to ask about their new antenna or whatever.","attachment":null,"posted":1716201734},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802083,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802037
>what's good logging software to use?
Not LoTW.
Bahahaha","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716209171312090.png","filename":"2e65ddedc56d931616de16bba3bf36c1bf7395a0e16e21d27c70920a03da376c.png"},"posted":1716209171},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802085,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">finally get a chance to make some early morning contacts
>find out LotW is down
Glad I keep paper logs and only upload to QRZ.","attachment":null,"posted":1716209472},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802095,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802085
According to
>>2799979
Today, Monday, is day 6
and according to
>>2801242
>>2801873
it was as hack.
A hack that took the LoTW offline during the Dayton Hamfest.
Interesting times. Most here seem to be quietly crying and shaking in the corner.
I find it funny.","attachment":null,"posted":1716210512},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802105,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802095
the russians are after our radios","attachment":null,"posted":1716211481},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802109,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802095
I find it funny since people apparently don't think of back-ups.","attachment":null,"posted":1716211730},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802117,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802109
The ARRL needs 16 million dollars in donations before they can release the backups.","attachment":null,"posted":1716213110},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802123,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802109
>>2802105
The Prez is a bit out of touch","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716215755593971.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-20 102947.png"},"posted":1716215755},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802141,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716218129216000.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-20 110718.png"},"posted":1716218129},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802189,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802038","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716226466729508.jpg","filename":"queers gonna fag.jpg"},"posted":1716226466},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Does anyone recommend a software controller other than N1MM?
I have an IC-7300 and ran N1MM, but had a pc crash and having trouble re-installing it.
I didn't use their logging or contest settings or rotor control. Just wanted a clickable waterfall with a telenet connection that displays callsigns.
Is there something nicer out there?","attachment":null,"posted":1716227121},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802198,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802196
flrig / fldigi maybe","attachment":null,"posted":1716227182},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802202,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802198
I just tried installing DXLabs and feel violated.
Guess I'll troubleshoot the N1MM error. A popup comes up as if the radio isn't connected - however I can change frequencies on the radio through N1MM.
The waterfall isnt' working. I suspect there's a small setting that needs editing. Are you suggesting it could be lacking the flrig software?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716228357157271.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-20 140201.png"},"posted":1716228357},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802203,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802202
>however I can change frequencies on the radio through N1MM.
flrig is especially made for that, fldigi is the digital modes interface so it doesn't seem so","attachment":null,"posted":1716228485},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802203
Hmm. Popup went away. The only issue remaining is the waterfall doesn't display anything other than the correct frequency in the corner.
I can do a little more googling. I forgot how much of a pain ham tech is.","attachment":null,"posted":1716229119},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802215
do you receive correctly ? By "waterfall" you mean the audio received on the sound card (maybe virtual) or a ducplicate of the waterfall of the IC-7300 itself ?","attachment":null,"posted":1716229201},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802226,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796676
guarantee you aren't important enough, retard
cease your delusion","attachment":null,"posted":1716232115},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802229,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796744
based
>>2796748
chad
>>2796755
seethe
>>2796745
keep malding, boomers","attachment":null,"posted":1716232300},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802262,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797486
stay miserable, faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1716235392},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802267,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"wow the pictures on the website don't do justice on how small a digirig mobile is
literally the palm of your hand","attachment":null,"posted":1716235932},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802282,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"truly I have arrived
there is no greater mode
I will tell my children stories of all the great contacts I made on FT8","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716237730694107.png","filename":"FT8.png"},"posted":1716237730},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802296,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What is the ThinkPad X220/Casio F-91W of HF transcievers?","attachment":null,"posted":1716238907},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802301,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802217
I can't figure where to select the audio, but regardless I would have imagined a more engaged waterfall ... with anything. Frequency, telnet spots ... I'm sure it's a small setting somewhere I'll eventually find then forget about again until I have to switch computers","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716239095246364.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-20 170323.png"},"posted":1716239095},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802307,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802296
>ThinkPad X220/Casio F-91W
IC-7300 or FT-991A","attachment":null,"posted":1716239443},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"was wondering why my ft8 display went crazy
it's the guy from New Caledonia","attachment":null,"posted":1716245061},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802378,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802189
Sad ham confirmed.","attachment":null,"posted":1716249628},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802388,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"don't be a sad ham
be an HF chad","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716250668790455.jpg","filename":"KB6GFD_pic_shack_1.jpg"},"posted":1716250668},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802420,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802388
I utilize both local repeaters along with FM simplex, and HF.","attachment":null,"posted":1716255056},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802424,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802296
what's the W520 of transceivers?","attachment":null,"posted":1716255695},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802420
I would use my repeaters but the analog ones are all dead and I refuse to buy into digital voice BS","attachment":null,"posted":1716256465},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802432,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802430
They are not dead here. I can always throw out my callsign and get a response. But then again, that repeater is a multi state interlinked repeater system.","attachment":null,"posted":1716256948},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802441,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802267
Yeah it's crazy how little it is, but it works great. Doesn't take up a lot of room.","attachment":null,"posted":1716258517},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802441
it does work great
was just surprised since I never looked at pictures of it on a desk
seems silly next to a giant transceiver","attachment":null,"posted":1716258665},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802462,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Jus got a 7610 should i mars mod it?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716264648770768.jpg","filename":"20240520_210501_HDR.jpg"},"posted":1716264648},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802483,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802462
27.555MHz
6.6MHz
Useful frequencies","attachment":null,"posted":1716271109},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802484,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802388
>Heil mic
>Rack of audio EQ bullshit
What a complete faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1716272436},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802486,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802484
he is in california
when I talked to him he was very straight laced but didn't correct me as a new hf ham other than to say I should turn down my processor
he answered my CQ which was something I guess","attachment":null,"posted":1716273644},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802507,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802462
Always MARS mod. Not having it by default should be a crime.","attachment":null,"posted":1716279771},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802526,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"there really is everything on the bands
didn't know there was bible study nets","attachment":null,"posted":1716290162},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802189
Sad. Many such cases.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716295235780062.jpg","filename":"fgs11e03.jpg"},"posted":1716295235},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802539,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802537
to be accurate now he needs a computer monitor running wsjt-x and just staring at the colors waiting for dx","attachment":null,"posted":1716295357},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802551,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802486
>he is in california
What a complete faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1716296950},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802555,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802551
he's definitely puffed some peters in his day
specially with that turtleneck","attachment":null,"posted":1716297273},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802593,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802388
Dude should spend some if that money on house paint and tree trimming. Place looks like a dump.","attachment":null,"posted":1716303360},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802507
>larping 101","attachment":null,"posted":1716304946},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802609,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Here's a tiny bit of an update -
W1AW 9 am EDT code practice is not running today, Tuesday 5/21.
It runs the code practice on a pc. Why not unplug from the hq network and run standalone? Because......
"When all else fails, ham radio is there."
Right? QSL?","attachment":null,"posted":1716307212},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802660,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802609
>QSL?
Why not unplug yourself?","attachment":null,"posted":1716315845},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802663,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802660
One of the things that concerns me is that ARRL has issued just two notices on this disruption, the last of which was on May 17. At the end of the notices, it says, "This story will be updated with new developments." Are there no new developments after all this time? Another status report is long overdue. In the big corporate world environment, this lack of comment or update would never happen. Even a simple explanation about where they are at with the disruption would be appreciated by LoTW users. Not good enough!","attachment":null,"posted":1716316728},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802674,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802663
>extremely low effort trolling
Why do you continue to go on with this fake outrage?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716318766206855.jpg","filename":"VHF antenna.jpg"},"posted":1716318766},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802687,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802593
I was surprised he just has some verticals
was expecting 50ft of tower","attachment":null,"posted":1716320880},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802688,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802674
This isn't really a "relax it will be fine" scenario. I am involved in cybersecurity and have been for a long time, and I can tell you that insurance is the last resort and can only protect against financial losses and can't recover lost data. Most companies actually do want to prevent cyberattacks. So much so that security has been shifting "leftward" where security is now earlier in the software development process instead of being an afterthought. My work now has shifted from testing applications already deployed to reviewing application designs before even one line of code is written.
And I can also tell you for a fact that ARRL's turmoil, stemming from its CEO and his decisions to drive away key staff is directly responsible for this. Two IT directors in a few years, and ignoring all of the good advice that was given to him. The first step to fixing this is to hire competent leadership at the top.
>t.I'm just copying from the ARRL panic thread in the QRZ forums","attachment":null,"posted":1716320905},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802689,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802674
I also don't trust what they're saying is correct. The CEO and Board has lied in the past about other things to save face. LoTW takes your credit card when you apply for an award. That doesn't go through a third party like Stripe or PayPal. It is manually processed by the DXCC desk. So somewhere in between the credit card data passes through.","attachment":null,"posted":1716321005},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802691,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802674
Perhaps it's time for a change.
Sometimes you can't fix it.. and you need to start over.
The "shadow board" was enough for me.","attachment":null,"posted":1716321089},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802692,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802674
From the announcement:
> Our member database only contains publicly available information like name, address, and call sign
It's concerning to me that the person(s) writing this don't seem to realize that the ARRL names and addresses on file need not match any public data source.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716321211740133.jpg","filename":"1711232800292644.jpg"},"posted":1716321211},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802692
>don't seem to realize
At this stage, attorneys have been brought in to vet and fine tune all official communications. This is damage control on stereoids.","attachment":null,"posted":1716322254},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802704,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Jim, what's a bitcoin?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716322462527360.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240521_151159_Reddit.jpg"},"posted":1716322462},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802711,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802702
Whatever is going on is big and it's being managed poorly at every step. It's hilarious they're selling Field Day merch.
> Field Day combines public service, emergency preparedness, community outreach, and technical skills all in a single event.
LoTW has been unaccusable for a full week now.
W1AW transmissions also stopped.
The 'library' is nuked (ehh, good riddance)
I read one QRZ post where someone saying that new ham licenses can't be processed for some reason (guess they pass through ARRL before FCC)
>>2802704
$5 says an intern deleted everything or knocked over the server.","attachment":null,"posted":1716323308},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802721,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">Support Associate, Logbook of The World (LoTW)
>The primary functions of this role are to assist with support for Logbook of the World users
(LoTW), process certificate requests and answer questions about LoTW features and services.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716324668360381.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-21 164946.png"},"posted":1716324668},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802726,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802711
>It's hilarious they're selling Field Day merch.
Plot twist: this is how they are going to pay for the attorneys.","attachment":null,"posted":1716326481},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802729,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802726
A W1AW guest op is saying all of the PCs are turned off and the amps and CW require N1MM to use, so he was barefoot on SSB.
I can't help but wonder if it's a publicity stunt
>IT says we have to turn off every computer
>OMG! Virus? Hack?!
>Naw, we just want to troll hams. We'll turn them all back on in a few weeks and say everything was restored but we need to adopt a subscription service for this never to happen again","attachment":null,"posted":1716327131},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802788,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802598
>not wanting to normally transmit everywhere like on ham bands, CB, MURS, and GMRS
That is not larping: it's being efficient without needing many different radios just for each service. My IC-7100 is MARS modded and can do all the bands now so I got an overall great base station.","attachment":null,"posted":1716335679},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802852,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802388
Now ther's a guy who likes Yaesu.","attachment":null,"posted":1716345506},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802866,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802852
pretty much everybody does
haven't ran into a Kenwood boomer yet and even ICOM fags respect the Yaesu","attachment":null,"posted":1716348581},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802869,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802866
>Kenwood boomer
The club I used to attend were Kenwood boomers. I didn't care for them. >>2802852
Icom and Yaesus are all excellent radios.","attachment":null,"posted":1716349117},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802877,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716350303825942.jpg","filename":"FB_IMG_1716350202886.jpg"},"posted":1716350303},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802711
the library is nuked?
good thing I have a pretty much up to date copy of the radio amateurs handbook","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716354809445887.jpg","filename":"PXL_20240522_051108736_1.jpg"},"posted":1716354809},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802908,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802869
Yeasu has launched a few nice tranceivers the last few years sich as FTDX 10 and 710. Kenwood has to huge beasts (890 and 990) that at least on paper look good.
And now that both Airspy and SdrPlay have launched new models, we can hope we are now in a new golden age of modern rigs.","attachment":null,"posted":1716359367},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802919,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802908
I've got an SDRplay RSP1B which I'm pairing with my FT1000MP
already ran CAT & audio control from a digirig so I can live in the new and old world.
Can waterfall with the SDR but still have a big heavy filter loaded superhet radio which makes me sound not autistic on the air","attachment":null,"posted":1716361636},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802923,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802897
I keep a lot of digital copies and printed off the ones I really need to keep on hand like their antenna book. Even then, I tend to write my own guides and observations and print them off.","attachment":null,"posted":1716363323},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802941,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802919
>Can waterfall with the SDR but still have a big heavy filter loaded superhet radio which makes me sound not autistic on the air
I really tried but I just couldn't parse that. Try again, please?","attachment":null,"posted":1716369095},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802954,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802941
boomers love my processor","attachment":null,"posted":1716374235},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802962,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802908
>Kenwood has to huge beasts (890 and 990)
Is the era of the flagship transceivers over? FTDX-9000D also belong on this list of aircraft carrier sized rigs.","attachment":null,"posted":1716378015},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802966,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm not sure who needs to hear this ... but LoTW is down.","attachment":null,"posted":1716378334},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802967,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802966
What's LoTW?","attachment":null,"posted":1716378533},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802969,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802966
>LoTW
Sorry, I didn't hear you! I'm too busy rustling through my paper logs.","attachment":null,"posted":1716378705},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802971,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802966","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716379687585997.png","filename":"slowpoke.png"},"posted":1716379687},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802987,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802967
>>2802969
>>2802971
Here's the real crime they're covering up","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716382870153103.jpg","filename":"FD 24 tshirt model.jpg"},"posted":1716382870},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802988,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802987
Are you done? I didn't hear your Roger beep.","attachment":null,"posted":1716383511},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802989,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802987
Did Elecraft sponsor that T-shirt?","attachment":null,"posted":1716383712},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802990,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802988
I've outlasted W1AW
I've outlasted the LoTW
I've outlasted the ARRL Learning Center
I'm kinda a big deal.","attachment":null,"posted":1716383780},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802998,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802962
>aircraft carrier sized rigs
youngins don't know nothin about big radios","attachment":null,"posted":1716384809},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2802999,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"so what's the deal with all the emcomm shit?
I get the ARRL pushes it to give legitimacy to the hobby but damn it's overbearing. Especially on VHF/UHF with clubs","attachment":null,"posted":1716385028},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803001,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802999
why can't americans enjoy a hobby as it is ? Bunch of larpers...","attachment":null,"posted":1716385167},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803002,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803001
>americans
Rent free","attachment":null,"posted":1716385311},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803026,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How is it possible you have a 100+ ARRL staff @ over 7 million dollars annual payroll and no ARRL generated FD activity or ARRL National convention, swap meet, BBQ cook off that is held @ world class convention space, just 5.2 miles up the road from HQ. Hell the world class convention facilities are closer to HQ then the ARRL,,,,,,, no, that other radio museum in the Capitol district is in mileage to Ground 0, the true place of least resistance. I wonder if a VTVM Ohm meter works @ HQ anymore?","attachment":null,"posted":1716391033},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803029,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803026
The entire US EMCOMM infrastructure is now at risk. ARES is probably at a standstill. Has ARES been activated? This looks like a very serious communications blackout in Newington with W1AW off the air. Where's ARES "when all else has failed"? Have they been sabotaged?!","attachment":null,"posted":1716391146},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803034,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"At this point I'm not sure if it matters with regards to their legal exposure; that's one of those things you do ASAP after finding out that you were attacked and how. This has been a PR nightmare.
If you log in, this is what the membership page looks like (my information blotted), and there is Birth Date, Credit Card, and purchase history information:
This would appear to contradict the ARRL news blurb.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716391782695221.jpg","filename":"Untitled 2.jpg"},"posted":1716391782},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803038,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803034
Many years ago I worked at a place where many IT services were outsourced to a large provider. In the contract was an obligation to take backups. Which they did. Then something went horribly wrong and the data had to be restored. "Oh, we have to be able to restore data to? Ah, but that's not in the contract. You just asked for backups. Look. Here. It's in paragraph xxxxx, section xxxxx, subsection xxxxx)".
Cue some red faces among the management who thought that they had got a really cheap deal.
Let's hope that the ARRL aren't in that situation.","attachment":null,"posted":1716391911},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803041,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803040
The is the main reason I only use paper checks. Secondarily, I refuse to use paypal and the derivatives due to the fee structure.
If you use your card on the computer, you should be prepared for such accidents to occur.","attachment":null,"posted":1716392291},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803049,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802999
It has been critical for the past week.
With the ARRL dead, ARES is the sole reason the earth is still spinning","attachment":null,"posted":1716393137},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803051,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802988
>Roger beep
Ok, now it's out of my system.","attachment":null,"posted":1716393641},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803053,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802999
Get off repeaters and onto shortwave. It still exists there with nets, but you can turn the dial.","attachment":null,"posted":1716393926},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803055,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"There might be some EU - NA openings on 6m today","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716394082052383.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 120727.png"},"posted":1716394082},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803059,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802704
SAAAAR! SAAAAAR! I YOLD YOU! DO NOT REDEEEEEEM!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716395198135853.jpg","filename":"Screenshot_20240522_112048_Reddit.jpg"},"posted":1716395198},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803062,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"So this thread is just bots now? Is the rest of /diy/ infected too, or did some unlicensed freedums autist decide ruin the /ham/ general?","attachment":null,"posted":1716395942},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803066,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
It's just me reposting a few outraged boomers on QRZ
As an example
>>2803038
I don't really know why other than this is a remarkable event and I want to share it with someone.
The ARRL, who has a weekend long field day event next month to preach about emergency communications preparedness, has FAILED to communicate. The LoTW has been down for a week and they've only communicated 'we called in the pros. Hold on'.
That's a failure.
W1AW isn't transmitting their regular messages nor can they use CW or amps.
That's a failure.
The LoTW was the ARRL. It was their revenue. It was their award system. WIthout LoTW and their awards, the ARRL IS DEAD
But nobody seems to care. This is historic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716396532547426.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 124428.png"},"posted":1716396532},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803067,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
Settle down boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1716396734},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803070,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
Award hunting is a huge part of ham radio and it's one of the few things that keeps the hobby alive.
80 meter rag chewers and repeater surfers aren't the ones supporting this hobby nor are the larping ecomm fags.
If the LOTW is dead, the ARRL is dead, and ham radio will be dead.
I do contests for the awards. I do FaT-8 for the awards. If I had a decade of progress undone, I'm done.","attachment":null,"posted":1716397190},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803075,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
The goal is to panic the boomers who have invested 4 decades and are 2 grids away from a Fred Fish award into going off the deep end and pulling a killdozer. June 4 is the 20th anniversary after all.
It took me a lot of work to put this plan into place. Almost as much work as it took Marvin. There are 12 days left. Don't fuck it up for me.","attachment":null,"posted":1716397858},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803077,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
Maybe the CT state attorney general or the FBI can explain it!","attachment":null,"posted":1716397972},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803080,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
As a software engineer just getting into amateur radio, seeing some of these sites and the software applications that are talked about ubiquitously around here make me shudder. Everything is from 30 years ago and frankly is a miracle most things work as good as they do. Hell, eQSL stores your password in plaintext in a DB and will email it to you if you forget. LoTW isn’t much better, when you finally get signed up they send you a six letter passcode, there’s not a lot of entropy there. Of course I changed mine but how many people sign up and keep the six letter password they were assigned? Yikes..","attachment":null,"posted":1716398356},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803081,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
people are concerned because they've spent decades logging contacts with the ARRL awards program and are concerned that decades worth of work may be lost.
I personally qualify for several dozen ARRL awards that I've never applied for simply because of the cost but did intend on applying for a few of them.
There are people who were working towards five and eight band DXCC on multiple modes and the chances that everyone would upload all their logs again should it be lost is somewhat small.
what's really concerning are all the dxexpeditions...
award hunting is a huge part of ham radio and it's one of the few things that keeps the hobby alive, 80 meter rag chewers and repeater surfers aren't the ones supporting this hobby or the manufacturers who support it, that would be the contesters and award chasers and it's These groups who are concerned.
logbook of the world is not a traditional log book It's the official QSL confirmation service for the ARRL awards program, the only other option are legacy paper QSL cards which very few people nowadays participate in, primarily because of the huge expense.
If I had to send out a paper QSL and a self-addressed stamped envelope for every contact I made over the last 50 years I figure it would cost me well over $100,000.
So yeah I'm really concerned, have my fingers crossed that the ARRL actually has logbook of the world backed up, If not then that will be the end of their awards program.","attachment":null,"posted":1716398427},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803083,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
Think about dxpeditions and the sk.
Bots? Show some respect","attachment":null,"posted":1716398623},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803090,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803066
We all know where reddit is. Stop reposting reddit shit.","attachment":null,"posted":1716399063},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803094,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801625
If you went to Hamvention, I hope you went to the ARRL area, found CEO David Minster, and asked for an update on the directives regarding LotW that he was given by the ARRL Board of Directors at theirJanuary 2023meeting (see minute 20 on page 8https://www.arrl.org/files/file/ODV/Board Meeting Jan 2023/ARRL 2023 Annual Board of Directors Meeting Minutes Final - UPDATE 02-15.pdf).
Also, hows the search for a new IT Director and new Operations Director going?","attachment":null,"posted":1716399574},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803097,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803092
Didn't ask","attachment":null,"posted":1716399817},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803099,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803097
Logbook of the world is currently down. Have you heard the news?","attachment":null,"posted":1716400131},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803102,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803098
>1.6 billion QSO Reports in the system;
>WHEREAS, the applications software and architecture is more than two decades old, created at
>the time of Windows 98;
>WHEREAS, the architecture and software currently supporting LoTW was not designed for this
workload and will never realistically be able to keep up with the evolving demands of its users by
trying to modify or maintain the existing system;
>WHEREAS, LoTW is not suited to new forms of real-time Radiosport – and this deters younger
users from using it by its antiquated complexity.
> resilient Cloud environment","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716400377197229.jpg","filename":"image0.jpg"},"posted":1716400377},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803110,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803062
Do you not understand the historical context of the last week?","attachment":null,"posted":1716401186},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803113,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802711
I thought one of the big selling points of radio is no outside infrastructure, 3rd party computers or internet needed. It’s kind of disheartening to hear that ARRL crippled their on air radio operation by relying on computers.
I really don’t want to pile on the ARRL right now, but I am very shocked that so many of their radios were tied into computers or outside infrastructure. That seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
I’m a nobody, but I even I figured this out. I pretty much never have a computer anywhere near my radio. This is how I roll. A pen, pad of paper, a straight key and a battery powered radio. No network, computer issues or infrastructure failures yet. :D","attachment":null,"posted":1716401561},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803096
>I am keeping an extra close eye on my Credit Card reports and banking info.
Good advice. I transferred all my spare cash to a savings accound","attachment":null,"posted":1716402344},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803128,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803097","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716403368166006.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 144211.png"},"posted":1716403368},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803130,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803098
>comprised
>of
This is a clear indicator that when all is said and done, too much will have been said and nothing was done.","attachment":null,"posted":1716403454},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803131,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803128
>>2803097
>>2803062","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716403491894620.png","filename":"its-all-over-goodnight-sweet-prince.png"},"posted":1716403491},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803137,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2801298
I'm shocked the ARRL hasn't sent an email yet.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716404354163360.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 145902.png"},"posted":1716404354},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803140,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803096
>My gut says that the League is not telling us the whole story on this
No shit
>I heard from a well know source that they asked a league official at the Xenia (Dayton) Ham Radio Convention yesterday about
LOTW being down, the reply was “I can not elaborate beyond, It is Not good, in fact it is bad really bad”.
That's beyond hearsay, but believable.","attachment":null,"posted":1716405220},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803150,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716406809727245.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 153949.png"},"posted":1716406809},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803151,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803150","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716406871563194.png","filename":"005208644_1-b0c7df5d3866a1cfc1acf7732b83c4ba.png"},"posted":1716406871},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803152,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803151","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716406935145796.jpg","filename":"f621f323-03ca-4c83-bbe7-8be89b8fb4d2_1190x1090.jpg"},"posted":1716406935},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803153,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803152","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716406996662661.jpg","filename":"Join_ARRL_banner_graphic_July_web.jpg"},"posted":1716406996},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803155,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803150
>>2803151
>>2803152
>>2803153
Guys - LOTW and the Learning Center run in a commercial cloud center. This appears to be a serious ransome attack. There are criminal enterprises who do this everyday to hospitals, businesses of all sizes, towns and others and demand a very large payment to restore. Usually in the 6 to 7 figure range. Many firms have insurance for this but it is very expensive as u can imagine. Most times the ransom is paid which the Feds don’t like as it lets this continue but often there is no other way. It’s what it it. Thanks the Russians for most of it.","attachment":null,"posted":1716407238},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803155
This has been said hundreds of times and I'll repeat it: Wrong! FT8 brought back interest in hamradio at a time when interest in the hobby was low and lack of propagation made it unappealing. From around 100 dxcc when the FT8 craze started, I now have 305 dxcc entities worked, 298 of which are in FT8. But, the point most of you haters miss is that working a rare dxcc in FT8 spurs one to also work them in SSB/CW, which is why since the dawn of FT8 I have also ammased 258 dxcc in SSB and 278 dxcc in CW.
Hmmmm. LOTW goes kaput about the same time MFJ calls it quits. I wonder.....","attachment":null,"posted":1716407305},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803167,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"hopefully lotw spam isn't in the new thread","attachment":null,"posted":1716408347},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803169,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803167
Just have the ARRL fix their shit","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716408515633249.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 160816.png"},"posted":1716408515},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803167","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716409060597689.jpg","filename":"main-qimg-50fac23815f14790fdc636b87722213f-pjlq.jpg"},"posted":1716409060},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803175,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803167
.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716409129043979.jpg","filename":"A13usaonutL._CLa_2140,2000_81MXdBrm-qL.png_0,0,2140,2000+0.0,0.0,2140.0,2000.0_AC_SL1500_.jpg"},"posted":1716409129},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803176,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803167
:)","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716409238412057.jpg","filename":"il_1140xN.3544193472_qr4n.jpg"},"posted":1716409238},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803167
Only 7 posts left for this thread :(
>All computers at HQ are offline.
>Staff aren’t allowed to use them.
All computers at HQ are offline.
Staff aren’t allowed to use them.
>All computers at HQ are offline.
>Staff aren’t allowed to use them.","attachment":null,"posted":1716409478},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I never saw 6 meters open up this afternoon","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716410147112971.jpg","filename":"st,medium,507x507-pad,600x600,f8f8f8.jpg"},"posted":1716410147},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803190,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"And the ARRL has posted an update:
Updated 5/22/2024
>We are continuing to address a serious incident involving access to our network and systems. Several services, such as Logbook of The World® and the ARRL Learning Center, are affected.
>We have heard from many LoTW® users, asking about the status of the service and its data. This is not an LoTW server issue, and LoTW data is secure.
>Our editorial and production team is preparing the July issue of QST magazine, which is still going to press. It may be delivered a few days late to members who receive print subscriptions.
>We appreciate your continued patience as our staff and others work tirelessly to restore affected systems.","attachment":null,"posted":1716410254},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803192,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"One more and we can QSY","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716410399417301.jpg","filename":"QSL3.jpg"},"posted":1716410399},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803193,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"73","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716410481026759.jpg","filename":"pepe-crying-on-computer-headphones.jpg"},"posted":1716410481},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803194,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803193
bye fren!","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716410542883155.png","filename":"pepe-crying-party-hat-thumbs-up.png"},"posted":1716410542},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803200,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795394
You can have a thread count over 500?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716411115553541.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 165121.png"},"posted":1716411115},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803208,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803190
>>2803191
>This is not an LoTW server issue, and LoTW data is secure.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716411656175748.jpg","filename":"tumblr_o3qi58MVdC1sdqa1xo1_1280.jpg"},"posted":1716411656},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716411778062607.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 170240.png"},"posted":1716411778},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803213,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2802998
>youngins don't know nothin about big radios
Tragic, really.
>>2803200
We hammered past 505.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716412161310489.jpg","filename":"DSC_0676.jpg"},"posted":1716412161},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803215,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803213
And the ARRL didn't lose the LoTW data!
It was a beautiful afternoon. Next thread will be back to normal","attachment":null,"posted":1716412252},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803217,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"#508","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716412396870698.png","filename":"Screenshot 2024-05-22 171253.png"},"posted":1716412396},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803231,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803213
Another aircraft carrier
>>2803217
Strangely, we are back to 495, what happened?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716416003108660.jpg","filename":"ts990s_lrg.jpg"},"posted":1716416003},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803233,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803231
>what happened?
Volunteer Monitors did their job","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1716416871734207.jpg","filename":"89beff72de8cedcc8696d09ffdf81dcd.jpg"},"posted":1716416871},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803272,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803190
>our servers are important, but printing paper issues for the boomers who cba to print off the digital versions is much more important","attachment":null,"posted":1716424531},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803213
The R-390/URR project was started in 1949, and they updated the radio to R-390A. Why wasn't the radio updated even further? The architecture was great and the performance is still impressive to this day, but replacing the valves with FETs and the complex gear trains with stepper motors would have both improved and simplified things.","attachment":null,"posted":1716451698},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803381,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2803213
can't believe we let the euros take away our cycles","attachment":null,"posted":1716451929},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803400,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Thread hacked like the ARRL
Move move
>>2803398
>>2803398
>>2803398
>>2803398","attachment":null,"posted":1716455986},{"board":"diy","thread":2795394,"pid":2803402,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"LOTW (NOT) BACK UP >>2803398
LARD LARP CONTINUES >>2803398
SWITCH TO QSY CHANNEL 19 >>2803398","attachment":null,"posted":1716456087}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795174,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"How do you make an alcohol-powered engine? Moonshining is legal where I live so I'm curious if I could grow ny own fuel.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714765156834279.jpg","filename":"1714500894057130m.jpg"},"posted":1714765156},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795177,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
take a regular engine.
now stay with me here.
put pure alcohol in it.
retune the engine to run less efficiently and a crappy fuel.","attachment":null,"posted":1714765587},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795178,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714765664315119.jpg","filename":"lustwaste.jpg"},"posted":1714765664},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795179,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795177
sounds doable","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714765686618131.gif","filename":"1710436061445158.gif"},"posted":1714765686},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795197,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795177
We need federal subsidies for this!","attachment":null,"posted":1714769259},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795256,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795177
Alchohol is hygroscopic and absorbs water, so there is a higher risk of rust in that regular engine.
I don’t understand what that image is trying to depict exactly. Something about milk and cookies will/won’t cause mammary glands to get larger vs. beer? Vice versa?","attachment":null,"posted":1714783516},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795259,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
HOLY SHIT CARTOON BOOBS!
POST MORE CARTOON BOOBIES!!!
HUMMINA HUMMINA WOO WOOOOO
DADDY NEEDS MORE!!!","attachment":null,"posted":1714784790},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795267,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795256
yeah duh. OP wants an alcohol engine.","attachment":null,"posted":1714786045},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795289,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795177
Also remember to crank up the timing a bit. alky likes 32°+","attachment":null,"posted":1714789326},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795310,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795256
>I don’t understand what that image is trying to depict exactly. Something about milk and cookies will/won’t cause mammary glands to get larger vs. beer? Vice versa?
boomer cartoon where the girl likes cookies and milk, gets fat","attachment":null,"posted":1714792486},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795324,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795310
Kek, boomer has lost all meaning","attachment":null,"posted":1714794271},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795328,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795310
>>2795324
it's actually a zoomer cartoon","attachment":null,"posted":1714795488},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795338,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795324
>>2795328
ok grandpa","attachment":null,"posted":1714798083},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795345,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795338
Foster's home for imaginary friends released in 2004, faggot. It's not even that old.","attachment":null,"posted":1714802542},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795351,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
>How do you make an alcohol-powered engine?
Look up how drag racers do it for theory of operation then look up whatever you dream of converting. Carbed older engines are easy.","attachment":null,"posted":1714805383},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795409,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795256
diesel also absorbs water
you just keep it in an aluminum tank and run it through a water separator before burning it in the engine","attachment":null,"posted":1714827764},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795457,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Let the engine suck from alcohol tank. Do you have an engine ready?
The rest is trying to make it ignite/clean burn by advance timing and increase amount, keep fuel system alive as rubber hates alcohol.
Have you figured out the alcohol side of the thing? Ferment and distill equipments.","attachment":null,"posted":1714837196},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795483,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795345
>20 years ago
boomer toon","attachment":null,"posted":1714841199},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795508,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795457
>keep fuel system alive as rubber hates alcohol.
Viton seals and alcohol-rated hose are easily sourced. Cheap generic "rubber" disintegrates and befouls fuel systems severely.
OP should build an engine for alcohol cart racing to learn the ropes as those are simple and thoroughly understood but cheap too.
A fancy version:
https://kartcityperformance.com/wka-pro-series-alcohol-briggs-animal-engine/","attachment":null,"posted":1714844291},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795515,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795483
Boomers were into late middle age by then. Learn to math.","attachment":null,"posted":1714844947},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795552,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795515
lol you can't just change the definition of boomer just because you don't like being included","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714851735349967.gif","filename":"1708691969171971.gif"},"posted":1714851735},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795568,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795552
>you can't just change the definition
That is literally how language works.","attachment":null,"posted":1714854551},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795579,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795568
on a societal level, not an individual level, you disingenuous retard.","attachment":null,"posted":1714855556},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795585,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795579
that is literally how it works - society is made of individuals, and society never makes a collective decision on language evolution before widespread use by individuals. and you might look into the definition of disigenuous before you use it again.","attachment":null,"posted":1714856154},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795585
You're intentionally misinterpreting words to try and look better in an internet argument nigger, fuck off","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714856624988738.gif","filename":"1713863218551306.gif"},"posted":1714856624},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795594,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795579
>on a societal level, not an individual level
Nobody gives a fuck about your personal vocabulary, even less about made up bullshit to pretend you won an internet argument. Loser.","attachment":null,"posted":1714857654},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795597,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795483
>you can't be a kid 20 years ago
Deep mental retardation right here.","attachment":null,"posted":1714857897},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795599,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795197
We already have federal subsidies, for this.","attachment":null,"posted":1714858060},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795600,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795594
>Nobody gives a fuck about your personal vocabulary,
That is literally what I just fucking said","attachment":null,"posted":1714858117},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795605,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795600
ok, So:
https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/boomer
>Boomer: a person born during the period between approximately 1945 and 1965
How is foster's house a boomer cartoon?","attachment":null,"posted":1714858850},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795647,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795568
“Literally” now seems to mean “figuratively”
>>2795568
The time for English being “descriptive” rather than “prescriptive” is long since over.
>>2795605
Boomer here. I’ve never heard of it. I was probably working my ass off to build the civilization you all enjoy. Didn’t have time to lounge around and contemplate being trans. Which didn’t exist except in chemistry and the rocky horror picture show.
>>2795174
There is something wrong with the way the elbows are drawn on the green hoodie.","attachment":null,"posted":1714870945},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795657,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795552
I don't think you know what a boomer actually is. Hint, they're a minimum of like 60 now.","attachment":null,"posted":1714872070},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795705,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795605
>>2795657
modern definition has changed doofus, dictionaries are always a decade or so behind","attachment":null,"posted":1714882413},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795890,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795705
a boomer is someone born after WWII but before the 60's who went through their teenage years in the 60's but no later than 1975.
IDC what a dictionary defines it.
modern retards just call anyone a boomer that does not agree with them. like calling people racist who did not say or do anything racist.","attachment":null,"posted":1714929407},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2795929,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795890
Those are baby boomers, not boomers.","attachment":null,"posted":1714934983},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796032,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795657
boomers are anyone over the age of 30 because jews have taught zoomers to hate anyone older than them as part of their faux cultural revolution.","attachment":null,"posted":1714948769},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796378,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
it's doesn't matter, you won't do it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715020502},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795929
baby boomers, and boomers are the same thing you dunce.
baby boomers mean the babies born from the boom that accord after WWII. those babies are boomers.","attachment":null,"posted":1715020585},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796385,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796380
Baby boomers are the people born during the baby boom after ww2. Not the "boom" which doesn't mean anything on its own, retard. Stop twisting things to suit your own goal. Don't pretend the last what, 6 years? haven't been filled with people talking about 30 year old boomers. I mean seriously, the average young person genuinely treats them as different things, which is sufficient semantic drift to catalogue its use as valid. You're arguing against an accurate statement.","attachment":null,"posted":1715020889},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796398,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796385
Business is booming.
Sonic boom.
Boom box.
Let me Axe you a question: why didn’t you wait in the car like I Axed you to?","attachment":null,"posted":1715022990},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796403,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796385
>Stop twisting things to suit your own goal
The amount of projection and mental gymnastics this post contains, all condensed just to prevail in the stupidest internet debate over a well known definition is simply a work of autistic art. After witnessing all these replies involving multiple users trying to correct a bad association that you keep defending without anything to support it (as if it's self-evident) makes me wonder, am i reading an actual human being or a machine programmed to make people go mad? Because assuming you're a real person:
A - You're just trolling.
B - You're extremely stupid.
C - You're extremely autistic and can't stand the idea of being wrong.
Perhaps your interaction with zoomers gave you a bad idea of what "boomer" means, after all, zoomers can't learn more than 600 words unlike any previous generation using at least more than 1000.
I assume they likely recycle frequently used words to describe more than a concept, for instance, everything that is considered old is now "boomer" as being a synonym of "old". Such a natural, evolutionary regression towards simpler cognitive behaviors, God only knows how beast-like alpha gen will be if such trend doesn't stop.
At this point i just disengage and move on, anyone who keeps taking the bait from this drama tranny is a masochist.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715024205575102.gif","filename":"1713032213365056.gif"},"posted":1715024205},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796553,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795178
>lust provoking
anon...","attachment":null,"posted":1715045555},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796659,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796403
>Perhaps your interaction with zoomers gave you a bad idea of what "boomer" means,
Translated:
>Perhaps your interaction with a significant portion of the population gave you an accurate idea of what "boomer" means,","attachment":null,"posted":1715086660},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796662,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795705
>>2796385
wrong definition is still wrong.
by your logic zoomers will be boomer next week.
stop being retarded.
a boomer is one and only one thing:
a person who was born AFTER WWII and grew up (10 to 20 years old) between 1965 and 1975). boomers have a specific mindset and were exemplified by the hippies.
hippies became boomers.
people who were not hippies were not boomers because they don't have the mindset.
you can't be something you didn't experience. a 30 year old today cannot be a boomer because they grew up in a completely different time. you're just calling someone something because it is now deemed derogatory.","attachment":null,"posted":1715087523},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796667,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Hey Boomer bro it doesn't matter if you're actually right because you're an old man arguing with a child you're embarrassing all of us. Please stop and let the children use the words how they want.","attachment":null,"posted":1715088303},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796673,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796662
>wrong definition is still wrong.
it's not wrong
>by your logic zoomers will be boomer next week.
I didn't say that, you're putting words in my mouth.
>stop being retarded.
no u
>a boomer is one and only one thing:
>a person who was born AFTER WWII and grew up (10 to 20 years old) between 1965 and 1975). boomers have a specific mindset and were exemplified by the hippies.
*baby boomers
>hippies became boomers.
we're not talking about hippies?
>people who were not hippies were not boomers because they don't have the mindset.
literally and totally completely unrelated
>you can't be something you didn't experience. a 30 year old today cannot be a boomer because they grew up in a completely different time.
again, you're confusing boomer and baby boomer
>you're just calling someone something because it is now deemed derogatory.
damn you ALMOST got it figured out, boomer.","attachment":null,"posted":1715088797},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796825,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796673
Terrible trolling, 1 out of 10. Nobody is even slightly annoyed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715122160},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796830,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796825
ok boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1715123246},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796831,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796673
ok boomer","attachment":null,"posted":1715123469},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796834,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
In a tl;dr you can make everything that combuste in to fuel for a combustion engine what would change would be the compresion ration and the filter/exaust mechanism that depending on what u use you'd have to clean the system or develop something to clean it more often.
For instance there were a dude that made a ford truck to run on use cooking oil here in Brazil.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124125},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796837,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796834
https://visornoticias.com.br/com-gasolina-cara-inventor-faz-caminhonete-funcionar-com-oleo-de-cozinha-usado/
i'm not going to translate. If you get interested use google translator to find more.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124384},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796871,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795351
>>2796834
>4 day old thread
>50 replies
>One that vaguely mentions E85 and none that reference factory flex fuel vehicles
This post was a lot longer; but really YOU have two choices:
build an e85 carb and use it on something it would fit (enjoy 3mpg)
or
buy a used FlexFuel shitbox (15 hwy)
If you're capable of growing a few more brain cells you could buy anything that's easily flash tunable and do the fuel system work (huge injectors, ethanol safe pump/lines, fuel mix sensor)
If you had some wrinkles on the multicellular brain, you could use microsquirt, and understand when/why it was necessary.
YOU (retard) have the two options I initially stated.","attachment":null,"posted":1715128293},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2796899,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796871
are you well?
did someone touch you i a weird place?
chill, dude.","attachment":null,"posted":1715136531},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2797356,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
>I'm curious if I could grow ny own fuel
How much land do you have? Because you're going to need a lot to create enough fuel for normal day to day use.","attachment":null,"posted":1715230076},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2797362,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797356
This. There is a reason farmers don't grow their own fuel and buy diesel instead. The main reason everyone uses petroleum products to power everything is it was recognized early on as being the cheapest fuel source and all the infrastructure they've built around it has only made it cheaper.
The reason electric cars are finally staring to have a moment is that batteries are finally starting to be cost effective alternatives. Everything else about electric cars was solved decades ago. Electricity, as a 'fuel' is cheaper than petroleum but the upfront cost is still too much for many people.
OP has done a double whammy on themselves though. They are going to have a huge upfront cost trying to get/modify an engine that can run on their DIY fuel AND they are going to have a ton of infrastructure to produce their DIY fuel. The only real flex fuel vehicles I know of are the US Army's old M35 series trucks. They got 10 MPG under the best circumstances but could run on most common fuels with no modification. They also had a duty rating of 2.5 to 5 tons. Alcohol is specifically not supported but you could more easily produce diesel anyway. Things like basedbeans and peanuts are great for biodiesel.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715231340927581.jpg","filename":"M35_Truck[1].jpg"},"posted":1715231340},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2797647,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796899
it's just banter sir, i don't mean that op is literally retarded for not being familiar.
just saying that depending on how well you can familiarize yourself with it, the more options you have and the more viable they become. OP is free to learn as much as is necessary to accomplish his specific goal, which is why i presented different levels of understanding and the options they provide. It's just the cost of spoonfeeding. I let you copy my homework and I get to call you a retard","attachment":null,"posted":1715295494},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2797735,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
Literally every single flex fuel vehicle is capable of running on E85 which is 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. You shouldn't change between the two often. Don't forget you need a loicense for distilling fuel!","attachment":null,"posted":1715307326},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2797741,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797735
>oi yuo gotsa loicense fer putin liquid in a tanker??","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715307768395262.jpg","filename":"IMG_0053.jpg"},"posted":1715307768},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2799087,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795174
You could make E85 like Brazilians do, but you need to get proportions right for manufacturing and will have to retune the engine itself (compression ratio mainly), and also expect for car to run shorter distances because unless you're racer/tuner, with E85 you'll only squeeze out around 80% of engine's capability compared to normal gasoline and your vehicle will consume 20% more fuel. On top of that, unless you carburetor engine, you'll also have to mix it with oil so the plastic parts don't get fucked.
Have fun.","attachment":null,"posted":1715586274},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2799539,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799087
bruv, ecu reprogramming, fuel lines and fuel injectors and your turbo gasoline does e85 and gets better compression and efficiency","attachment":null,"posted":1715691129},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2799567,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799539
That is in his unless","attachment":null,"posted":1715699814},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2799897,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Don't take my word for it but I think you can mix gasoline with ethanol and get more bang for your buck","attachment":null,"posted":1715760523},{"board":"diy","thread":2795174,"pid":2800685,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799539
Why do you think I mentioned retuning engine, dumbass.
ECU retune is must by default, but along that you'll have to do additional preparations like getting high flow pump, new injectors made specifically for E85, and mixing in oil to the fuel because unlike normal gasoline E85 with E100 don't lubricate as well and will cause more engine wear, so you will have to do frequent engine checkups or you'll risk killing the engine. Also unlike normal gasoline, E85 absorbs water so you won't be able to leave car parked for days because your tank will end having water inside the system, and potentially the fuel itself will cause rusting inside the engine along with corrosion of plastic parts.","attachment":null,"posted":1715932799}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795582,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Old house, old 50s drywall. What would cause the paper layer to bubble and separate like that?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714855885180574.jpg","filename":"0516699A-C57C-40A2-83D4-023B7B3DB586.jpg"},"posted":1714855885},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795588,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
dead body in the wall","attachment":null,"posted":1714856686},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
the moisture from the dead body","attachment":null,"posted":1714857872},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"me, I've been pissing on your wall for 20 years","attachment":null,"posted":1714857943},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795602,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"It looks like paint on another incompatible paint","attachment":null,"posted":1714858396},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795625,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
Have seen this before while doing a job up north.
At first, we thought it may've sunlight through the window hitting the drywall over a long-period of time.
So, we ripped it up, intending to replace the drywall portion that was bubbling.
Turns out that wasn't what caused it though.
There was a dead body in the wall and the moisture caused it to bubble.","attachment":null,"posted":1714862987},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795650,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
>pic
its too late","attachment":null,"posted":1714871393},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795660,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
Oh, you found my piss wall. I'm on the other side.","attachment":null,"posted":1714872966},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795773,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Moisture on what you painted or coming from behind","attachment":null,"posted":1714908750},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2795982,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"looks like the dead body in the wall is starting to leak urine","attachment":null,"posted":1714941979},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2796131,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Ill tell you exactly what it is …termites
They have eaten the paper up to the paint. its the paint bubbling
Thank me later.
t. 45 yr pro house remodeler","attachment":null,"posted":1714965055},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2796136,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
black mold from the moisture from the urine from the dead body","attachment":null,"posted":1714965801},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2798313,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
Did you just paint directly over the dead body or...?","attachment":null,"posted":1715432083},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2798708,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
like everyone said, its moisture. Cut it out and see if there is water collecing behind there.","attachment":null,"posted":1715510181},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799245,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
leadsbestos","attachment":null,"posted":1715623892},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799300,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Turns out it was termites. After a Google search I scraped the paint. They eat the paper","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715633368127364.jpg","filename":"IMG_3203.jpg"},"posted":1715633368},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799321,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
Had that before involving a /a/ book, house is older than that, silverfish and termites ruin houses pretty well.
See if you can get it patched and hire a exterminator if you have a lot of them. Should be a easy /diy/ solution for killing termites firsthand without a exterminator.","attachment":null,"posted":1715635877},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799380,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799300
I win again…
Old saying, If you’re the smartest person in the room, youre in the wrong room","attachment":null,"posted":1715647818},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799557,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795582
outgassing, typically signs of a dead body","attachment":null,"posted":1715697348},{"board":"diy","thread":2795582,"pid":2799620,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799300
they were probably attracted to the dead body","attachment":null,"posted":1715707198}]}
{"title":"Advice Needed","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My wife and I recently lost our little girl. It was a stillbirth but we had some really compassionate nurses that made a hand and foot mold for us before we had to say goodbye. I’m worried that the (I’m assuming) plaster they used is really delicate/fragile. The detail on them is great but I’m eager to find a way to scan or duplicate them to ensure they survive long term. Could anyone give me some advice?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714874407034810.jpg","filename":"ECCB7704-F8D0-49B9-B788-CEBC14832142.jpg"},"posted":1714874407},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795694,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You could get a 3d scanner and 3d print it out. Alternatively, you could use the 3d scan to make a negative for casting with plaster or something else.","attachment":null,"posted":1714878635},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795695,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795694
Have you ever used a 3D scanner before, I’m seeing huge price ranges","attachment":null,"posted":1714878743},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795697,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Some 3D printing services also offer 3D scanning.
Look for maker spaces, libraries even.
For now, as a security measure, take a fuckton of photos from many angles","attachment":null,"posted":1714879102},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795699,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"You can get this stuff at a craft store. It would probably work to make a negative that you could then use to cast resin or something else sturdy.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714879272923866.jpg","filename":"SmartSelect_20240504_221939_Chrome.jpg"},"posted":1714879272},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
I’m sorry for your loss anon.","attachment":null,"posted":1714880534},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795704,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795694
Scanners those capable of scanning baby foot wrinkles..
That would fucking cost a house
No joke
Semi-translucent flesh would not help with scanning either
I think you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about or joking, i can't tell","attachment":null,"posted":1714882138},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795706,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
you can make another mold from the plaster positive, then make as many duplicates as you want in plaster or whatever; that'll definitely capture the fine detail. I think you could use alginate like in your picture but AFAIK that works best for skin molds, but it degrades quickly after that, and it's better to use silicone or something else for copying objects. there's probably a specific material to use for copying plaster, if you search around.
If you want a digital copy, you can get good enough detail with lots of pictures from a phone camera and free software to extract a 3d model. It won't as fine as the mold or a 3d scan, but you'll still have surface detail in the texture (from the photos), same as any other 3d model.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714882919538993.jpg","filename":"file.jpg"},"posted":1714882919},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795707,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795702
Thanks anon, definitely a devastating turn we didn’t expect.","attachment":null,"posted":1714883136},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795708,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795706
Thanks that makes sense, is that a silicone mold being made in your image? I didn’t think about doing two halves like that.","attachment":null,"posted":1714883292},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795715,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795708
I think so. smooth-on actually has a bunch of decent info on making molds of various sorts, could look through it for plaster https://www.smooth-on.com/howto/basics-mold-making/?tags=video-tutorial .
also if you do the photogrammetry thing, meshroom on https://alicevision.org/ is what you want, you can find more detailed tutorials too if you need it. I have used it and while you need a lot of pictures, it is free to try.","attachment":null,"posted":1714883891},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795751,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Sorry for your loss.","attachment":null,"posted":1714897528},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795752,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
I don't have anything useful to add to this thread, but I hope you and your wife are doing as ok as you can be. I'm sorry to hear about your loss Anon.","attachment":null,"posted":1714898079},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795759,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Stay strong wishing you guys all the best","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714902051025938.jpg","filename":"1714080773267225.jpg"},"posted":1714902051},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795769,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Make a silicon mold like other anons say, that then gives you options like taking it to a sculpture foundry to cast in bronze. They probably would want a wax version which can be melted out of the sand form to replace with metal.","attachment":null,"posted":1714907810},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795786,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795759
>>2795751
>>2795752
I really appreciate that anons thank you","attachment":null,"posted":1714914175},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795790,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795715
>>2795769
Then I think that’s the direction I’ll go. I would absolutely love a bronze version. I’ll be sure to circle back and post if I’m able to duplicate them. Thanks again guys.","attachment":null,"posted":1714914331},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795791,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
I have a child and the thought of losing her is unimaginably painful. I'm sorry for your loss","attachment":null,"posted":1714914776},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795832,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795791
OP never had a child, OP had a pregnancy.
>>2795670
>>2795790
I was going to say just don't fuck with it, but bronze sounds aces. Also keep trying bro, it took us 10 years and thousands of dollars to finally have kids. Worth everything.","attachment":null,"posted":1714921454},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795834,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Just dip them in vinyl ester resin (fiberglass resin)
Sry for your loss senpai. Couldn't imagine going through that","attachment":null,"posted":1714921602},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795837,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795832
Life begins at implantation retard
Kys before you bring down future human IQ","attachment":null,"posted":1714921687},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795851,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Like other anons said, that's hard. You will ultimately grow and be stronger.
In the meantime, bolster your fertility. Iodine. Yeah you knew I was going to say it! 50mg a day. Work your way up. Then conceive. { I've also found the book Perfect Matrimony by Weor to be helpful. }
Jim at Buyiodine and the info at Whyiodine and the recent Berry MD interview of Brownstein MD is a good resource.
I've done it myself and walked other couples through it. What is killing IQ, and affecting fertility -besides all the other better known things- is all the thyroid hormone needed by the baby in the first trimester, is provided by the mother. Who herself, is usually woefully deficient. She makes it in her thyroid and ovaries, all females have that capability. Iodine is the number 1 missing ingredient, even made to be a pariah by the mainstream synthetic patent pharma cartel. Wonder why? It's deficiency drops fertility, intelligence and health of a people.
Then there's also the use of bromide in everything (potassium bromate fire retardant, bromated flour (U.S.))... it gets absorbed in place of iodine. I could go on but everyone is bored of my schtick.","attachment":null,"posted":1714923296},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795852,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"1. Cast plaster into agar gel.
2. Use agar mould to cast some kind of resin or epoxy mixture.","attachment":null,"posted":1714923459},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795853,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Nothing useful to add regarding the mold making, but wanted to also say I'm sorry man, that has to be rough. Keep your head up and be there for your wife as I know thats gotta be really rough for her right now...","attachment":null,"posted":1714923483},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795863,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Rough, you'll be fine but I hope she is able to power through for both of your sakes. Anything I was going to add has already been stated in this thread. Best of luck to you.","attachment":null,"posted":1714924327},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2795866,"name":"Kevin Van Dam","msg":">>2795670
F.","attachment":null,"posted":1714924623},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2796063,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Since it's small, you can 3D scan it on a rotating table (best results), then print it in resin, then you can paint it so it looks more like a human hand.
Sorry you lost your daughter, I don't like kids, but I know how much it suck ass to lose someone you love.","attachment":null,"posted":1714953146},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2796120,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796075
Even this shithole is flooded with normies
Facebook faggots all high fiving each other oh sorry about your misfortune im crying wahhhhhhh fucking pussies","attachment":null,"posted":1714963562},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2796468,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Automotive clear coat.
Make sure the plaster object is very dry, apply multiple thin coats.","attachment":null,"posted":1715031782},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797162,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Throw that shit in the trash and adopt a kid currently doomed to a life of foster care and prison. Problem solved.","attachment":null,"posted":1715194746},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797210,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
Scan or have it scanned so you have that file (remember the rule of 3s for backups) then print a pattern to cast in metal of your choice.","attachment":null,"posted":1715202545},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797302,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796075
>>2796120
Bait, or off the charts levels of newfaggotry. There are plenty of boards where you can go be edgelords. Fuck off to them or hang yourselves, whichever is easier.","attachment":null,"posted":1715222218},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797310,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
My deepest condolences for what you and your wife went through as well as what happened to your child. Stay strong and have hope.
>>2795832
>OP never had a child, OP had a pregnancy.
>Implying he never had a kid that died.
What the hell, man? Fuck off.","attachment":null,"posted":1715224010},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797383,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
The people advising 3D printing/scanning mean well, but it’s not the most reasonable way IMO. Use liquid silicone or silicone putty to form a mold around the casts, let them set, and then you can pour epoxy resin into the molds and make resin replicas. Silicone will capture all the little details, and there’s a lot of art you can do with resin. And even if you don’t want to use the resin replicas, they’re much much sturdier than plaster, and you can save them to make more molds later as backups.","attachment":null,"posted":1715237298},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797384,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Imagine thinking this post is real Kek. Bait fags going to a new low","attachment":null,"posted":1715238245},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797411,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
at least this one wont wake you at night for the next 10 years
enjoy fucking when you want while you can
also, mold it","attachment":null,"posted":1715254400},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797497,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797384
yes, /diy/, the most popular board on 4chan, KNOWN for its elaborate sob stories and trolling. it definitely makes sense for someone to go to one of the slowest boards on this site to get sympathy yous, instead of trolling on /tv/ or /bant/ or even /fit/. what would even be the point?
>hahaha, those 6 anons took 30s to give condolences to someone who they thought had lost a child!
I know it’s a hard adjustment for you to make, but this isn’t reddit you know? nobody is tracking yous like they do your precious updoots.","attachment":null,"posted":1715270147},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797517,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797497
you are absurdly naive. taking 4chan OPs cries for sympathy seriously is a sign you have sub-100 IQ. It's an anonymous image board. Think of what kind of person would actually have a wife who miscarried, then want to make a plaster mold of the hands of the miscarried babby, then tell that story on 4chins and ask for advice on how to make a more robust version of these hands. A person like that does not exist.
What does exist are larper retards - lots and lots of them - as well as naive retards like yourself.","attachment":null,"posted":1715273131},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797603,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797517
For what purpose? What would be the point? 6 sympathy yous? Is he going to repost it on twitter for likes? Let’s pretend he dropped all context, and just asked how to make a silicone mold of a hand- everyone would just assume he wanted to make some kind of jerking off machine and he’d get 0 helpful advice. It would be such a pointless and unfunny thing to lie about. There are plenty of other boards with actual feels threads he could farm in if he wanted. You know people with families post here right (myself included)? Especially on /diy/, given the average user age is higher than a lot of boards. We could even take a variation Pascal’s wager- if he is baiting, I wasted all of 4 minutes offering uninteresting advice. If he isn’t, then I spent 4 minutes helping someone in one of life’s most difficult situations. You don’t have to just assume everything sincere is some troll or trap or bait, especially on an anonymous slow board where there would be 0 tangible benefit to running with this elaborate story. And if it were a bait, and we all wasted our time being kind, then what benefit was it to you wasting your time being a dick?","attachment":null,"posted":1715289678},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797610,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797603
>For what purpose? What would be the point?
newfag did you just find this site this month? It's full of weirdos who like getting (you)'s under the most ridiculous pretenses, just to probe for reactions. If OP actually does want to make plaster baby hands it's probably for something completely degenerate so he made up some dead baby story to put people off their guard.
I don't buy it for one second.","attachment":null,"posted":1715291157},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797619,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797610
>realizes his argument is cynical and retarded
>n-newfag
I guarantee I'm older than you, I've been here long enough know when people are hunting for yous, and to recognize that this would be such a weak and roundabout way to do it, and he would be way better off on a board that wasn't as practical and slow as /diy/. again, /pol/, /r9k/, /fit/, /b/, /gif/, and /tv/ would all be much easier places to farm. and if he was degenerate enough to make some kind of fisting machine, why would he articulate that it needs to maintain fine detail and that the source material was made of plaster? why would he settle on the bronze cast idea? he would just buy one of those dildo making kits and use that. you're either just baiting me at this point, for which I congratulate you for getting me to respond this for long. Or, you're a pathetically lonely faggot seething because you know nobody in your life cares enough about you to ever try and preserve your memory. I'm done shitting up the thread to argue with either option.
if you come back OP, sorry for the drama. I do a lot of mold casting, and I'll check back again in a couple days if you still need advice.","attachment":null,"posted":1715291995},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797639,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797619
nah you're just naive. I've been here for many years any seen people larp on the most moronic shit.
Pretending to be injured, pretending to have found an dead body, pretending to have someone dying in the room with them... I mean it just goes on and on. And I'm not just assuming they were pretending - these are scenarios when the OP owned up to his bullshitting after being repeatedly called out. Or course this was a while back when the site wasn't inundated with redditfags and ptg boomers.","attachment":null,"posted":1715294350},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797683,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">t. schizo documentary watching Christian
Throw away the charm
Yes it can be a charm
A demon attached item
Can't believe the pharmacist witch house offered such a service.
Let the dead worry for themselves and you do the work of the living.
Possibly the demon smote the child, pray to Jesus and get another one. Cast a lot asking Jesus if you should get another one right now, if the lot says get another, then no demon shall touch it, because God has put His hand over it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715300461},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797702,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797610
/diy/ is one of the better boards, fewer trolls here","attachment":null,"posted":1715302891},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797740,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797702
it's only a click away from the dingleberry-encrusted anus that /b/","attachment":null,"posted":1715307599},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2797754,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Everyone suggested scanning, but you can try photogrammetry, it's much easier and cheaper to do since you can use your phone or a camera, there's apps for this like Polycam or RealityCam (I had good results with it) or you can do it the old way and take a bunch of photos and use a software like Realitycapture, Zephyr or Meshroom(couldn't make this one work), you will have a virtual representation that you can keep, print or mill","attachment":null,"posted":1715309093},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2799596,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
burn the molds and move on","attachment":null,"posted":1715704425},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2799602,"name":"Muratic acid","msg":"One of my best yet","attachment":null,"posted":1715704933},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2800998,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795670
My advice: let it crumble or just throw it out. You’re really better off moving on. My dad remarried and tried to have more kids. His wife had a couple of still births before being able to have two children to raise. The kids were always creeped out because she kept keepsakes and pictures from the still birth at the hospital. If you don’t move past it then it will fuck your wife up for life.","attachment":null,"posted":1715997023},{"board":"diy","thread":2795670,"pid":2801004,"name":"MURATIC ACID","msg":"Jannies are faggots max kekdum
This thread is
B
A
I
T","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715998516942721.jpg","filename":"IMG_3222.jpg"},"posted":1715998516}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795732,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"WHat musical instruments can I build especially on the cheap?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714890573857117.jpg","filename":"Cwg.blacklabelsociety.wiltern.nov2010.reed_035_(5221568239).jpg"},"posted":1714890573},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795734,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoon_(musical_instrument)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maraca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mbira Also known as a Kalimba.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triangle_(musical_instrument)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystallophone","attachment":null,"posted":1714891092},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795780,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"bucket drums?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rddrEsymrkU","attachment":null,"posted":1714912454},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795782,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795780
*The rest
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqJdzYY_Fas","attachment":null,"posted":1714912612},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795795,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
horns. You just have to buy (or turn) the mouthpiece, cut a piece of garden hose to the right length and (if you want them to be loud) stick a funnel in front. These are pretty popular with alphorn players because you can roll them up for easy transport.
First english description I could find:
https://www.philorch.org/globalassets/philadelphia-orchestra/performances/virtual-orchestra/learn-content/build-your-own-horn.pdf","attachment":null,"posted":1714915915},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2795801,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
ocean haro
pan drum
toungue drum","attachment":null,"posted":1714916780},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796048,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Seen videos of middle/high schoolers building electric guitars for pretty cheap as a STEM project. likely a simple kit available.","attachment":null,"posted":1714951727},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796081,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714956694681458.png","filename":"Screenshot_20240506_105106_Firefox.png"},"posted":1714956694},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796641,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
https://www.planetgaa.com/CTBanjo/","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715079907261642.jpg","filename":"Cookie-Tin-Banjo.jpg"},"posted":1715079907},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796645,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"There are a lot of easy to make percussion instrumnts.
a few simple stringged instruments
what about brass and woodwind?","attachment":null,"posted":1715081015},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796663,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
it doesn't matter, you won't do it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715087635},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2796793,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
Several ideas.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715117694070456.png","filename":"Fat_Albert.png"},"posted":1715117694},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2797552,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
You can build a xylophone out of just about anything. Copper pipes. PVC pipes. Wrenches. Wood blocks. Silverware. Twigs.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715279573642088.jpg","filename":"diy xylophone.jpg"},"posted":1715279573},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2797584,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797552
What ratios should the lengths of the metal be to each other?","attachment":null,"posted":1715285626},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2797586,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797584
Each bar is an idiophone tuned to a pitch of a musical scale, whether pentatonic or heptatonic in the case of many African and Asian instruments, diatonic in many western children's instruments, or chromatic for orchestral use","attachment":null,"posted":1715285830},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799575,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
Bamboo flutes. Get Bamboo, get a drill, put a finish on and sell it online to weebs.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715701788416993.jpg","filename":"making-utaguchi.jpg"},"posted":1715701788},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799591,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
Cigar box banjo/ukulele
Or any stringed instrument that isn’t bowed.
Or if you have a bow, the Saw.","attachment":null,"posted":1715703965},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799637,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"E bay guitar kits 100 dollars u assemble","attachment":null,"posted":1715708974},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"3d print unlimited ocarinas","attachment":null,"posted":1715723821},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799759,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
you can build a guitar out of anything as long as you buy the pickups, plug, tuning keys, bridge, and strings. body doesn't matter.","attachment":null,"posted":1715728330},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2799784,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
triangle...maybe tambourine if youre ambitious and have a lot of extra change","attachment":null,"posted":1715732498},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800171,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
Jug is even cheaper.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715819473434524.jpg","filename":"wash-tub-bass.jpg"},"posted":1715819473},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800230,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799759
LOL, fails to mention the most difficult part of a guitar to diy (really an assembly of about two dozen separate parts), that can make or break its playability if any of a number of critical measurements are even slightly off.
Even experienced luthiers have to know their shit and pay attention not to fuck up when fabricating one, and even a perfect one can be rendered useless if not carefully installed.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715827838189507.jpg","filename":"1679170915.jpg"},"posted":1715827838},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800330,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800230
Are you so fucking retarded you can't measure things or make templates before you cut?","attachment":null,"posted":1715856413},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800354,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800330
Not the point; that dumbfuck (you?) didn't even mention the most critical part of a guitar when telling someone how to build one and what parts are involved.","attachment":null,"posted":1715862309},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800366,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800354
Someone was making the point that the body of an electrical guitar, unlike an acoustic guitar, doesn't matter as long as it can support the components. He wasn't giving detailed instructions on how to build a guitar.
In other words, there's a dumbfuck in this thread, for damn sure, but it's not that guy. Guess who it is.","attachment":null,"posted":1715863816},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800368,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800366
>making the point that the body of an electrical guitar, unlike an acoustic guitar, doesn't matter as long as it can support the components.
That "point" was not made at all, no mention whatsoever of acoustic vs electric guitars or support of components, you just pulled all of that out of your ass.
And again, no mention of the one component mounted to a guitar body where that "support" is critical to the whole thing working.
>In other words, there's a dumbfuck in this thread, for damn sure, but it's not that guy. Guess who it is.
You, for being the seething retard defending a moronic post that saw fit to mention needing a "plug" but never mentioned THE single most important and complicated part of building a functional guitar, whether it's electric or acoustic.
You still don't even know what part I'm talking about, do you? LMAO","attachment":null,"posted":1715864772},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800428,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800368
nta
Everyone knows you're talking about the frets.
I agree with everything you've said but you're still an insatiable fucking faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715874932},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2800430,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2800428
Well to be precise I guess you're hinting at the neck as a whole; frets and truss rod and all.
Faggot.","attachment":null,"posted":1715875190},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2801066,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795732
Okinawan banjo
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kankara_sanshin","attachment":null,"posted":1716015774},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2801959,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Ring modulator
Theremin I believe","attachment":null,"posted":1716177780},{"board":"diy","thread":2795732,"pid":2802147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Pipe organ.","attachment":null,"posted":1716219155}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795789,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Need a new corded angle grinder with all the safety features, jobsite requirement. What’s the cheapest decent thing that meets all these requirements? I have an old Hilti that’s great, but no brake on it.
I’m suspecting it’s going to be one of the less-high-end Metabos but there’s a ton of models and the filters on the site don’t work well, and it would be great to get something cheaper.
- Dead man paddle switch
- Restart protection
- Kickback protection
- Brake
- No more than 6”, going to be used in tight spaces","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714914275163303.jpg","filename":"D0504F3C-456E-4E0C-BE5E-8BFC97267DFC.jpg"},"posted":1714914275},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795804,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
Just get a Milwaukee or a Dewalt","attachment":null,"posted":1714916907},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795820,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
What is the OP pic?","attachment":null,"posted":1714919937},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795822,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795820
homo gays","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714920288037938.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-05_10-44-10.png"},"posted":1714920288},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795830,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
>cheapest decent thing
craigslist or whatever get a used one from a gone cordless bro.","attachment":null,"posted":1714921152},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795858,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795804
From what I can tell you have to get up into the >$200 range before they start getting brakes, at least the Dewalt, Milwaukee I made a more superficial look
>>2795830
Yeah def would buy whatever used if possible. The Hilti was $50 at a pawnshop","attachment":null,"posted":1714924037},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795927,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
Your employer should be providing the power tools if they have such stringent requirements.","attachment":null,"posted":1714934552},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2795938,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
>Dead man paddle switch
>Restart protection
>Kickback protection
>Brake
how to make a angle grinder fucking useless","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714936790728949.png","filename":"1704087365696863.png"},"posted":1714936790},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2796181,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795938
you're one of those retards who takes the guard off because "it gets in muh way" aren't you","attachment":null,"posted":1714976513},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2796183,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796181
Yeah","attachment":null,"posted":1714976688},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2797801,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795927
It should be like that, but unfortunately that’s not the situation.","attachment":null,"posted":1715322436},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2797803,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
If you have to have all those safety features you're better off with one of these instead","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715323265658895.jpg","filename":"image_12774.jpg"},"posted":1715323265},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2797834,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797801
Organize a union then.","attachment":null,"posted":1715340230},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2798840,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795822
Grindr. Like "Grinder". Stop pearl clutching and take a fucking joke, you humorless closetfag","attachment":null,"posted":1715532791},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2798975,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798840
Anon was explaining the joke, after another anon asked for an explanation. What are you on about?","attachment":null,"posted":1715558678},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2799005,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795789
I just got one from harbor freight for $14, works great and cut my chicken wire in about 5 seconds. Worth every penny.","attachment":null,"posted":1715567158},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2799027,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Those safety features are meaningless in the context of the consumer safety board and will soon need to be replaced with discstop(tm) technology from TTI masquerading as “sawstop”
Possession of older grinders without discstop(tm) technology will result in confiscation and distruction of the tool, and a federal felony with mandatory prison time.","attachment":null,"posted":1715571575},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2799058,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2799027
cool boomer vibes","attachment":null,"posted":1715577432},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2799219,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795822
>faggot shit
>has evil face for logo
No surprise really.","attachment":null,"posted":1715618403},{"board":"diy","thread":2795789,"pid":2799429,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798975
He's a closet homo, so he'd immediately go in the defensive without a good reason.","attachment":null,"posted":1715656385}]}
{"title":"Faux-exterior room","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795923,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Was watching some stuff about this wacky 70s bunker and as tacky and ridiculous as it is my inner manchild can't help but be fascinated by this idea.
So I was thinking, since I live alone and own my house, why not be stupid for once and turn a small spare room into a fun fake exterior? Obviously it wouldn't be a bunker so all the survival and living considerations are out the door, it would just be a cool aesthetic lounge spot to read books, play games, etc.
And since this was built in the 70s surely there's much better tech and resources to create something better looking that's cheaper and easier.
Any ideas /diy/?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714933064715063.png","filename":"undergroundexterior.png"},"posted":1714933064},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795926,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
First pic reminds me of Dark Hollow from Spyro the Dragon.","attachment":null,"posted":1714934017},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795933,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
I think you should just go outside if possible","attachment":null,"posted":1714935654},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795934,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"the bunker in question if you're interested
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0V7ki-zFd5A","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714936277089777.png","filename":"vegasbunker.png"},"posted":1714936277},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795941,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"If you wanna go for the ultimate teenager trash there's the cloud ceiling","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714936831475954.jpg","filename":"cloudceiling.jpg"},"posted":1714936831},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795980,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795941
Nice
>>2795923
As visible in that pic, you need an insane amount of light. A ‘bright daylight’ photograph shot with only artificial light takes like 1000W of light and that’s with mirrors and everything.
If you can get real stone and running water like a small creek that would add loads to the experience I think. And put real plants unless you want it to feel like teletubby land or mario world.","attachment":null,"posted":1714941928},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795941
>ultimate teenager trash
that would be the """""plant""""" wall","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714941952132501.jpg","filename":"verticalgarden.jpg"},"posted":1714941952},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2795987,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"there's something uncanny but also comfy about this","attachment":null,"posted":1714942445},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796004,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795980
>unless you want it to feel like teletubby land
Not OP but that was so comfy to me as a kid. Real turf is dirty, full of bugs and not even particularly comfortable. Fluffy green mounds of carpet are far more idyllic","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714945264594081.jpg","filename":"teletubbies.jpg"},"posted":1714945264},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796006,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
imagine building your doomsday bunker on an extinct sea floor. what a fucking retard. The first wave of continental sized tsunamis will flood your entire setup and kill you.","attachment":null,"posted":1714945592},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796020,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796006
shouldn't you be asking how the fuck is he gonna power all that shit after the apocalypse?","attachment":null,"posted":1714947879},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796061,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"imagine living in a theater set","attachment":null,"posted":1714953048},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796127,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"even professional million dollar projects in disney parks don't look like real environments","attachment":null,"posted":1714964485},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796147,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796020
Yeah I’m sure they never thought of that. You found their Achilles heel.","attachment":null,"posted":1714967309},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
I kind of like that idea, having the exterior of a building indoors has a unique feel to it. Can't really explain it.","attachment":null,"posted":1714969833},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796159,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796157
buy this and put it inside above a fake turf mat","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1714971503313736.jpg","filename":"kidshouse.jpg"},"posted":1714971503},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796202,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
>Original owners had dwarf-tier height
>Lived underground
Poetry","attachment":null,"posted":1714983687},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796369,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
>>2795923
I would want to sleep ‘outdoors’ all the time. I wonder what the temperature is like there","attachment":null,"posted":1715019759},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796413,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
that looks like a nightmare to clean","attachment":null,"posted":1715026524},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796442,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"green carpet vs fake turf
what are the pros and cons?","attachment":null,"posted":1715029066},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796442
one gives you rug burn
the other, lacerations","attachment":null,"posted":1715029767},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796448,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
Get a model railway or aquarium.","attachment":null,"posted":1715030187},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796450,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796448
why are little microcosm worlds so comfy and fascinating?","attachment":null,"posted":1715030281},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796477,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796450
It's a self-contained world where you control everything, and bad things only happen if you want them to. Well sorta. There was that time when the pump failed and the water level dropped to about nothing and that made it easy for the crayfish to track the salamanders down and eat them alive with those food-processor cutter things sticking out of their heads.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715032589152095.png","filename":"Screenshot_2024-05-06_17-55-52.png"},"posted":1715032589},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796604,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796004
hobbit house from the future","attachment":null,"posted":1715060415},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796611,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795926","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715062011724196.gif","filename":"1657459311463.gif"},"posted":1715062011},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796823,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"you must be 18+ to post on this site","attachment":null,"posted":1715121800},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796868,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
The ceiling is always way too low to not have it feel like you're in a well-lit wizard of oz hellhole, plus it must be echoey as hell in there.","attachment":null,"posted":1715127918},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796883,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796868
what if instead of sky you do a cave-like ceiling?","attachment":null,"posted":1715130985},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796894,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
just do some wall gardens and grow strawberries or herbs or something and use nice naturally-shaped wood for the furniture in the room. Have a mister and some periodic breeze, maybe a windchime if you're feeling it, and maybe if you're feeling extra get a nice big bird cage for like a 3rd of the whole room where they can do whatever. Or a naturalistic jungle paludarium, that might be cool.","attachment":null,"posted":1715134359},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796901,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
Your lower LH pic has the right idea by using the wall as the exterior of a building to read as being outside, as opposed to trying to recreate all enveloping nature...better to create the illusion of a delineated exterior space like a plaza or courtyard or an alley or other passage where you expect boundaries...then you can fake hedges or a wall of foliagein other spots, light it from above like light flows into those spaces and you're on your way.
As far as new tech goes, high def LED projectors are getting dirt cheap and in the right spot you could create all kinds of super convincing exterior views with the flip of a switch or via a phone app...you dont even need a computer, just plug a thumb drive in with pics, or stream video to it if you want motion.","attachment":null,"posted":1715136671},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796903,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796883
The cave provides.","attachment":null,"posted":1715136717},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796906,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Another similar idea that can be kind of cool is where someone takes a big open warehouse space and installs what amounts to a typical house inside it...the rollup doors in picrel lets you close off or open the "yard" area so it can be inside or extend to the real outdoors.","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715137838543812.jpg","filename":"y5P4Uip-1350529797.jpg"},"posted":1715137838},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2796914,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796906
now all OP has to do is buy a warehouse and build an house inside it!","attachment":null,"posted":1715138927},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2797390,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Part of what makes outside feel like the outside isn't the visuals but the air quality and movement(wind)
Even with AC I doubt you can replicate that indoors","attachment":null,"posted":1715247235},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2797999,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
dystopic","attachment":null,"posted":1715367382},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798199,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
hideous decor","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715395416504796.png","filename":"vaulteccorn.png"},"posted":1715395416},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798206,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795926
I was going to say it reminds me of a spyro world","attachment":null,"posted":1715396352},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798252,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
That shit is creepy but hobby lobby has really good fake plants that we decorated our living room with in kind of a modern/forest mixed theme","attachment":null,"posted":1715405772},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798258,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
"Smart" lights let you change their hue and brightness.
You could run that on a program or timer to change for a sunset/rise and night time.
Use glow in the dark paint in little specks for stars that show up when it darkens.","attachment":null,"posted":1715409113},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798270,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795923
Real plants","attachment":null,"posted":1715414362},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798282,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798258
>You could run that on a program or timer to change for a sunset/rise and night time.
this is more important that it seems at first blush. dealing with the passage of time and keeping your body in some sort of circadian rhythm helps for sanity.
DESU if I ever found myself in this situation, I'd just put one in my own head. I got better shit to do than suffer in some solitary pit in the ground.","attachment":null,"posted":1715419826},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2798656,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
I love the concept but the execution and taste level is very unfortunate","attachment":null,"posted":1715495489},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2799666,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2795934
God I love this aesthetic. I wish I wasnt a complete retard autist at decorating to pull this off","attachment":null,"posted":1715715929},{"board":"diy","thread":2795923,"pid":2800286,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"this is only somewhat kinda sorta cool because it's underground. if you do this in a regular room it's gonna be lame. at least do a basement","attachment":null,"posted":1715835874}]}
{"title":"old shed pad","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796551,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I'm moving and there's a shitty shed pad at the place I'm looking at buying. I want to put a shed on it. How do I repair it to make it usable and safe? I want the shed to be secure and not blow away during a storm","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715045531733716.jpg","filename":"603a1620b726c35996523cbee6bf28ff.jpg"},"posted":1715045531},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796554,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I mean, it's not gonna go anywhere if that's what you're asking. If you just want it to look nicer then break up and toss that cracked up shit on the right and repour it and pressure wash the big slab","attachment":null,"posted":1715045779},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796618,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796554
can I pour another slab on top of this one as is?","attachment":null,"posted":1715065855},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796622,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796618
That is what i would do. Make sure your new slab is nice and thick","attachment":null,"posted":1715067305},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796661,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796618
Not a great idea. The pieces on the bottom are still going to shift and your new slab is just going to crack again. Do it right the first time, remove and re-pour","attachment":null,"posted":1715087286},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796689,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"He should seal it in epoxy.
It's all the rage.","attachment":null,"posted":1715093757},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796690,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796618
with how many cracks there are on that, i'd remove and re-pour to be on the safe side.","attachment":null,"posted":1715094124},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796693,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
>no visible anchor bolts
>right in front of the stairs
Doesn't look like a shed slab. If in the South it's a buck-breaking slab, if in the North, then it's a pay-money-to-get-broken by a buck slab.","attachment":null,"posted":1715095838},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796714,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796661
Never understood this. Yeah i have a nice concrete base to pour my slab on, better rip it all up, soften the ground up, then repack the ground again so I can repour my slab. I mean if its still settling and moving a ton then it would probably make sense, but I'm sure that slab was done settling 20 years ago...","attachment":null,"posted":1715100368},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796768,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
Looks like it was poured for a place to BBQ etc. due to proximity to the back door.
Wise method is leave it and be glad it's there to walk on for rainy days (and perhaps later spread some milled asphalt as a walking path connecting it to your driveway or as a driveway, milled asphalt is wonderful and easy to rake out by hand which self and wife did for several dump truck loads for the exercise.)
I'd place a storage shed much further away from the house so it would be better for flammable storage. It's less hassle to make a form then pour a (fiber reinforced) slab of whatever thiccness your use case suggests. Bigger slab is better even if you just temporarily plop a small shed atop the slab since slabs are extremely handy for working on vehicles, mowers etc.","attachment":null,"posted":1715111708},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796809,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"SHED","attachment":null,"posted":1715119912},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796820,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796714
Yeah, it’s already settled.
At most, I’d drill some holes and throw some rebar stubs in the old slab and tie them into the new slab’s rebar poured on top of it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715121355},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796845,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796714
You have no idea what the ground is like underneath that slab. It could be compacted clay, it could be granular base, it could be topsoil, or it could be Jimmy Hoffa.
If you're in an area with a freeze-thaw cycle and expansive soils, the slab would lift and drop with the seasons, and a broken slab could do so unevenly, which would put stress on a slab poured on top of it, resulting in cracking.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124934},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796878,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796714
No I'm talking about just pouring it straight over the broken pieces. They'll continually move even if just a little. Concrete is brittle af","attachment":null,"posted":1715129624},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796908,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796878
That’s why rebar.","attachment":null,"posted":1715138024},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796925,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796908
Just don't be a lazy nigger and do it right the first time","attachment":null,"posted":1715140319},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796932,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"My shed is just sitting on cinderblocks","attachment":null,"posted":1715142428},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796964,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
Why do you want to put a shed just in front of the stairs?
Anyway, I would just remove the cracked concrete on the right and pour a new slab over all of it. Make it at least 4“ thick.
Add sone rebar to connect the new and old concrete.","attachment":null,"posted":1715150729},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796981,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
who would be dumb enough to put a shed right in front of a stairway ?? blocking your stairs could result in fines for blocking a fire exit","attachment":null,"posted":1715160135},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796983,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796618
Subscribe to Victory Outdoor services and watch them. Concreters always rip up the old concrete, dig down and pour new concrete.","attachment":null,"posted":1715160730},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2796990,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796964
>put a shed just in front of the stairs?
this.
that existing conc pad is a shitty place to put a shed.
if you need to put the shed so close to the house, at least shift it over some so its not right fucking in front of the stairs","attachment":null,"posted":1715164602},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797014,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796983
>subscribe to
kill yourself faggot","attachment":null,"posted":1715173180},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797019,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796983
Of course they do.
It’s more money.","attachment":null,"posted":1715173726},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797187,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797014
I think I'll kill you and your family instead","attachment":null,"posted":1715198128},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797196,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796981
Post shed path meme","attachment":null,"posted":1715200652},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797247,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
>>2796554
The lowest effort thing to do would be to blast out the dirt and grass in the cracks and fill them in with cement caulk. It will flex a little with future movement and make it look whole again for about 10 years.
If you're just going to cover it with a shed again, you don't really need it to look nice. Don't waste a lot of effort on this, you're going to have a lot of shit to fix in this old house","attachment":null,"posted":1715208535},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797859,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Leave the pad alone and put a pole 'barn' over it
use it for cookouts or storage","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715344451672165.jpg","filename":"24x30-open-pole-barn-2-1030x773.jpg"},"posted":1715344451},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2797906,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797859
>don't enclose your valuables in a shed, just leave them under a carport that's not over the driveway for some stupid reason
is this a serious suggestion?","attachment":null,"posted":1715351439},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798077,"name":"I forgot","msg":">>2797906
Yes, That looks too small for a car, if a car can even get in the backyard.
Do you live where it snows? not a good option for you. In tropical places, a shady and breezy place has value.
>Looks like it was poured for a place to BBQ etc. due to proximity to the back door.","attachment":null,"posted":1715377509},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798117,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
if that's the actual picel, you should be more concerned about your mobile mansion taking flight than some shitshed. plus mr lehey aint gonna let you build anything to shitify sunnyvale","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715382576361607.jpg","filename":"1690150869975772.jpg"},"posted":1715382576},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798128,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
Just turn it into a path to your new shed","attachment":null,"posted":1715384830},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798183,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
why would it be unsafe, is your iq less than 100? It's a fucking shed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715392032},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798386,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
State?","attachment":null,"posted":1715446807},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2798720,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798183
i had this thought as well. Idk what OPs talking about","attachment":null,"posted":1715512141},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2800537,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798720
as long at it not on side of hill it will be fine,worst thing that can happen is in a massive flood the foundation floats, but again it's a fucking small as shed not a house.","attachment":null,"posted":1715896042},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2800541,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
if you're not parking anything heavy on it , it should be fine.","attachment":null,"posted":1715896600},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2800544,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2798386
Deep South.","attachment":null,"posted":1715896736},{"board":"diy","thread":2796551,"pid":2801132,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796551
This is a garbage bin slab, that’s why it is so close to the house.","attachment":null,"posted":1716036874}]}
{"title":null,"posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796638,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"What do you do when the toughest guys on site show up?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715078033579277.jpg","filename":"drywall.jpg"},"posted":1715078033},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796642,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Nobody else is in the house while the sheetrock crew is working, moron.","attachment":null,"posted":1715080028},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796668,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">shitty Mexican trumpet music starts blasting through the entire house","attachment":null,"posted":1715088338},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">be doing stucco in exterior
>stucco finish guys show up
>two albino brothers
>their orbital sanders on poles would hit a corner or something and big down and all my Mexican employees would should "Aflac!" because they said it sounded like the Gottfried duck commercials.","attachment":null,"posted":1715088573},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796672,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796670
Drywall finish guys*","attachment":null,"posted":1715088796},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796675,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796670
>day laborers
>speaking english","attachment":null,"posted":1715089338},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796679,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
Im not in that picture pussy","attachment":null,"posted":1715091034},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796687,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796668
I love hearing that crazy music. It means the work is getting done, and the workers are professionals.","attachment":null,"posted":1715092688},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796719,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
>What do you do when the toughest guys on site show up?
nothing, because that's me.","attachment":null,"posted":1715101047},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796731,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
Tell then we've already installed Trusscore and their services are not needed.","attachment":null,"posted":1715103584},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796751,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796731
> trusscore, pvc stuff
Fire breaks out, everyone is killed from the fumes and the site becomes a superfund cleanup site","attachment":null,"posted":1715108020},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796796,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
>the toughest guys on site
Doesn't seem relevant, I'm pretty sure house construction isn't a contact sport.","attachment":null,"posted":1715118020},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796798,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
I point them toward whatever project I hired them to help with.
Then maybe offer them a water or something.","attachment":null,"posted":1715118358},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796804,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796687
You mean the work will later need to be fixed by professionals","attachment":null,"posted":1715119208},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796827,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796670
They're saying "aw fuck" because now they have to skim circle gouges.
>>2796638
I'm going to wait 10 years and make more money fixing their mistakes.","attachment":null,"posted":1715122416},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796835,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796751
>Fire breaks out, everyone is killed from the fumes and the site becomes a superfund cleanup site
I'm sure all the cheap drywall is so much better on the lungs. Pretty sure if the fire is powerful enough to melt the fire resistant PVC in such a way, you are already dead as all your skin has melted.
Pretty sure the fumes from the carpet, floor glue, furniture and various paint/stains will end you first.","attachment":null,"posted":1715124212},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796879,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796687
There's an apartment complex I worked at last year for a remodel. They hired a Mexican foreman who hired mostly Mexican laborers to do the job.
>beaners leave for an hour every day for lunch
>beaners tiled over all the shower drains
>beaner window installers put in the windows wrong
>beaner foreman ordered the wrong windows the second time
The obnoxious beaner music enhances the shit show.","attachment":null,"posted":1715130122},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2796922,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
Come back when they're done and put holes in the walls. Then come back a week later and make more hole because lol I measured wrong, fix it Pedro.
I hate sheetrockniggers like you wouldn't believe, I've stolen three pole sanders this year alone from two separate crews.","attachment":null,"posted":1715140092},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797157,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796922
>stolen three pole sanders this year alone
No, no you haven't.
Don't larp here.","attachment":null,"posted":1715193936},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797518,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796719
>shows up to jobsite
>does nothing
>doesn't elaborate
>leaves","attachment":null,"posted":1715273192},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797598,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
I think you mean the intoxicatedest","attachment":null,"posted":1715289113},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797607,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797598
I think you mean the hardest working. try doing their job and you'll agree. doing sheetrock fast and accurately is not as easy as you might think.","attachment":null,"posted":1715290595},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797623,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797607
I'm a construction attorney I ain't hanging shit","attachment":null,"posted":1715292167},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797664,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
Swallow every mean word and drown my feelings in alcohol.
If he sets hand on me (again) though i will take a hard fall and sue the shit out of him (this time)
God im unhappy","attachment":null,"posted":1715298779},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797667,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796796
Youre right its more like cheerleading. Ironically the only people who act more like bratty teenage girls are grown men working together in a construction company.","attachment":null,"posted":1715299269},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797670,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
When the Electricians show up on the job site, all of the inferior trades hang their head in shame.","attachment":null,"posted":1715299387},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797671,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797623
Im a master bricklayer, i dont know what the fuck a sheet rocker is. Is that like a party rocker but for sheets? Are they in the house tonight?????","attachment":null,"posted":1715299400},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2797684,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797518
That's the kitchen designer. I know. That's me.","attachment":null,"posted":1715300627},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2798447,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796638
Laugh while he irreversibly damages his body just to be better than the rest","attachment":null,"posted":1715458419},{"board":"diy","thread":2796638,"pid":2798449,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796827
nah, my mexican plasterers would be joking, saying "aflac!", because the sander sounded like a duck when it bogged down","attachment":null,"posted":1715458912}]}
{"title":"Buy Or Build Shelves","posts":[{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796500,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"A) I can get the storage shelves I want for $300, plus tax.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5-Tier-Industrial-Duty-Steel-Freestanding-Garage-Storage-Shelving-Unit-in-Black-90-in-W-x-90-in-H-x-24-in-D-N2W902490W5B/319132842
B) Or buy lumber boards, and build one for $150.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLBl15hnt28&list=PLKnDtSMnSKEFT9xBAdw9vYQdHCqXrBUpk&index=31
I got the tools, but I'm on a budget. I'm worried I will fail : ) What would you do?","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715035106607323.png","filename":"sd.png"},"posted":1715035106},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796502,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
so you can't fucking make such a simple decision that you have to start a thread on an image board to choose? how pathetic","attachment":null,"posted":1715035720},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796504,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796502
OP wants to have a valid discussion. Go climb a fucking tree.","attachment":null,"posted":1715035899},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796513,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796502
You cant even answer a question, but you can go on an autistic rant. Oh, but I'm the pathetic one. Sure.","attachment":null,"posted":1715036740},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796514,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
watch the buy of the day. that shelf comes on sale about twice a month","attachment":null,"posted":1715036912},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796516,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796504
>hurr durr should I buy this or build that???
>>>>shelf<<<<
yeah real deep discussion","attachment":null,"posted":1715037347},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796518,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"Gladly meet up teach you cunts some respect","attachment":null,"posted":1715037505},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796524,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
You understand what board you're on right? This isn't "buy it yourself"","attachment":null,"posted":1715037952},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796532,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
This depends on what you're storing. If it's a bunch of holiday decorations in totes and a few tools then go with the wooden diy build, if it's lots of heavy tools like saws and whatnot then go with the metal shelf because the wood will bow and possibly buckle over time under extreme constant weight and with humidity in the air it will warp over time. where is the shelf going? in a shed? in a garage? in a cooled insulated workshop? in a laundry or utility room? these things matter a lot","attachment":null,"posted":1715039567},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796534,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
>$150 in lumber
you know pallets are free right?","attachment":null,"posted":1715039882},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796536,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
You should check your local estate sales for shelves. I see this shit go out the door for around $50-$90 on avg. You gotta tear it down of course but thats ez","attachment":{"attachment_url":"https://i.4cdn.org/diy/1715041324455464.gif","filename":"1658626201076227.gif"},"posted":1715041324},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796546,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796500
>What would you do?
not ask or post here about it.","attachment":null,"posted":1715043963},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796574,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796532
It's going into a garage. It'll hold like hoses, bags of shit, garage stuff : )","attachment":null,"posted":1715050255},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796575,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796536
Good idea","attachment":null,"posted":1715050316},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2796580,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2796574
Just buy off a deal.","attachment":null,"posted":1715051282},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2797904,"name":"Anonymous","msg":"I prefer to build. Mostly to fit the space and requirement perfectly. However when wood was silly and I desperately needed to organize my stuff after moving. I set up a lot of those cheap plastic shelves and ran boards between em. Extremely fast, moderately cost effective (at the time).","attachment":null,"posted":1715351275},{"board":"diy","thread":2796500,"pid":2797907,"name":"Anonymous","msg":">>2797904
Price has gone up a lot. Aint going to beat two off these and some scrap board for speed.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hart-Black-Plastic-5-Tier-72-H-x-36-W-x-18-D-750lb-Total-Capacity/672562686?fulfillmentIntent=In-store&filters=%5B%7B%22intent%22%3A%22fulfillmentIn