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----- |
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--- 26525611 |
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>For Classics made from 1980 or older, although exceptions are made for cars with a body style that started after 1980 |
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>Everybody has their own taste, but some tastes are wrong. If you aren't sure if your car is classic or not, it's not. |
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>Your Honda Miata doesn't belong here. |
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>US, Euro, Jap, or whatever. |
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>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice. |
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>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses; don't get butthurt. |
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>Period correct performance > cosmetics. |
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>Metal > plastic. |
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>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox. |
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>JBweld and RTV can fix anything |
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>If you see rust there is more. |
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>Mopar fans are on the receiving end of San Francisco's finest |
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>Rust and bodywork are the most difficult thing to repair. |
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>Electrical work is difficult until you stop reading forum posts and buy a multimeter. |
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>Low oil pressure? Worn mains and rod bearings. Use lucas and 15W40 until you afford a rebuild. |
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>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay someone to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or more of the work or you will go broke. |
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>You will spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience. If the salty old hands agree, it's true. |
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>No one cares about your MPG |
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>No one cares about your fake PTSD either. |
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>If you can't tune a carb you might literally be retarded |
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>Nothing is as easy as it seems |
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>Don't use your car as a bathroom |
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>Post car or gtfo |
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PREVIOUS THREAD: >>26505213 → |
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--- 26525621 |
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Speaking of dead brands, Drac should be back from California with his new purchase any day now. |
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--- 26525627 |
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>>26525600 → |
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I'd assume you put a gasket or something between the exhaust pipe and flange. |
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|
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I wonder if it would be worth trying to find someone who can properly build/tune a carb and distributer for economy vs EFI. |
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--- 26525667 |
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>>26525640 |
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I'd love to have one of those behind an 8500 rpm motor. |
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--- 26525701 |
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>>26525667 |
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yis |
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--- 26525829 |
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Spotted some classics yesterday |
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--- 26525832 |
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taxes are paid, time to get some wheel adapters for the buick and see how to fix the S10, did find some reman computers but its on summit so who the hell knows if they actually have them, other options are a megasquirt and i'd need a megasquirt v3 for the maf i'd also want. Carb is the cheapest solution, $40 2300 adapter plate and a $85 reman distributor with vacuum advance, given its an HEI and i dont have to disassemble the ENTIRE distributor to change advance springs, i'd also enjoy to tinker with that. |
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--- 26525839 |
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>>26525387 → |
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reverse flow heads I imagine |
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Seems some narly heatsoak on a 240z with Hitachi's but haven't seen it on the TR7 or even the reverse flow midget 1500's I have plunked around on. |
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--- 26525842 |
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And this |
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--- 26525878 |
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>>26525627 |
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>properly build/tune a carb and distributer for economy vs EFI. |
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There's literally books on how to do it. |
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|
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Electronic feedback carb on the mid 80's Ford 300 had better mpg than the older standard carb AND the later speed density EFI. |
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--- 26525887 |
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>>26525878 |
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>not just using gods carb that was better than a lot of early efi |
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--- 26526869 |
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78’ camero lad here, |
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|
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Should I keep it factory original or should I start adding modern crap like a NRG/Sparco steering wheel and maybe even a LCD dashboard? Doesn’t even look like none of the instruments gauges even work at this point . |
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--- 26526872 |
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The Pinto destruction continues. |
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It's unbelievavly messy and I almost set my house on fire in the process. |
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--- 26526887 |
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>>26526869 |
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A new steering wheel is your choice but I have nothing good to say about a digital dashboard in any car whatsoever. You'd be destroying the charm of the car if you did that. |
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--- 26526897 |
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>>26526869 |
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Personally I would see if I could get the gauges working first and maybe find a bezel. the most important are coolant temp, oil, and volt. If you're going full racecar, there are some cool all in one gauge cluster screens. Hell, I even saw one with an anime background that had a chick that pulled her titties out as you increase RPM. |
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I plan on going with a quick release steering wheel in my car purely for theft deterrence. There are a lot of better quick release hubs from what I've read. You can probably find a model specific one because you have a camaro. |
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>joes racing |
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>ididit |
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>summit |
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>ome |
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some are universal and some are weld on. they also have specific wheel patterns. don't forget about dimensions and the horn if you care about that. |
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--- 26526922 |
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>>26526869 |
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that dashboard looks like its falling apart, take it apart and figure out how to put it back together more correctly, i dont see a reason to start blowing money until you find something broken in there, im guessing just missing screws |
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|
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>>26526872 |
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join the club, i evicted my wood stove this winter, seeing about some propane/nastygas heaters but im thinking a gigantic fan in the exhaust hole would be more beneficial as we've had our first 90 degree day of the year |
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--- 26526934 |
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>>26526922 |
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>im guessing just missing screws |
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NTA but they said that their instruments aren't working. |
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--- 26526936 |
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>>26526869 |
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>Camero |
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You should sell it to someone who actually deserves it |
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--- 26526954 |
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>>26526934 |
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it looks like someone has cut up picrel and already put aftermarket gauges in there, that gives them a better chance of actually working and just being nigger rigged more |
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--- 26527047 |
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>>26526869 |
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Where you at? |
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--- 26527117 |
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>>26526954 |
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No it doesn't you fucking idiot |
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--- 26527126 |
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>>26525887 |
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SU's? |
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--- 26527131 |
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>>26527117 |
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I nigger rigged my dick into your mom's pussy, faggot. |
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--- 26527132 |
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>>26527126 |
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Of course, nothing but the best |
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--- 26528083 |
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New fuel tank and in tank pump finally arrived, 2 days late but whatevs. I think gonna try to set it up returnless up to my efi to eliminate some clutter from the regulator and return line |
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--- 26528285 |
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>>26528083 |
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wat car? |
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--- 26528322 |
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>>26528285 |
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79 camaro, ditching the returnless idea though. Read through some forums saw people complaining about fuel cavitation and lean outs running a returnless PWM even with an in tank pump. This would be catastrophic under boost for me so fuck that. Already have a regulator and return line so I’ll just run it with a return line and in tank pump. Apparently the issue is with MSD’s fuel control logic on the PWM side |
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--- 26528479 |
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>>26527117 |
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You might want to look at those auxiliary gauges again. Speedo and fuel level are stock but the others aren't. Coulda been cool but they didn't have the skillz. |
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--- 26528486 |
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>>26526869 |
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Oh, and I haven't seen an aftermarket steering wheel yet that isn't absolute cancer. |
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--- 26528545 |
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>>26528322 |
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No bro weren't you here last thread? You don't need a return line just more pressure, that guy kept autistically screaming it over and over so it must be true. |
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--- 26528589 |
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opinions on roller rockers vs stamped |
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--- 26528877 |
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>>26528589 |
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Get the Scorpion rollers. They are cheap and reliable. |
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--- 26528921 |
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>>26528589 |
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Barely matters unless you are building a car for competition or some other reason you are keeping it wound up. |
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|
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I found some Chinese FE roller rockers but I never found out if they would fit a 200ci |
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--- 26528959 |
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>>26528921 |
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>200 |
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no, in this case the 351 I have |
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--- 26529386 |
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All righty so looking over the specs on the new sending unit looks like it uses factory sized 3/8” outlet and 1/4” return line barbs. My hard lines (which I’m not currently using) are also 3/8” and 1/4. |
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Currently I got all 3/8” hose from the tank all the way up to the efi following the factory lines along the frame rail then up behind the water pump to the 6AN fitting on the base of the efi. Then out of the back of the efi I got a another 6AN to 3/8” return hose coming out to my firewall mounted regulator and back out on another 3/8” hose following the factory lines all the way back to the fuel tank sending unit where that 3/8” hose is double hose clamped to the 1/4” return inlet. Fucking 2018 me was a real hack job piece of shit. I’m think you ideas of the best way to set this up with the new tank install to do the best job possible. I’m thinking of using the factory 3/8 hard line(with new replacement hard lines of course) with 3/8 hose at the tank to the frame rail and then in the engine bay from the line to the throttle body. Then swap the return barb coming out of the regulator to a 6AN 1/4” barb and then run just run 1/4” hose to the factory location hard line and 1/4” hose to the sending unit. You guys got an ideas for this? Maybe relocate the regulator to the fender liner or something so I don’t have to do a loopty loop from the firewall back to the front of the subframe to re connect to the hard line? Or make an engine hard line to plumb it from the regulator to the front of the subframe? |
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--- 26529815 |
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>>26528959 |
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well at least they're cheaper for a 351 |
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--- 26529881 |
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>>26528545 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKiBG8y2UsY [Embed] |
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--- 26529907 |
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>>26529881 |
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Aw are you gonna act like a retard again? Poor stupid baby. If heat isn't a factor in vapor lock, why did my engine stop vapor locking after I installed insulation on the line? Stay mad retard. |
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>>26529386 |
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This guy thinks you should just pressurize the feed line to 100psi and not run a return because no car needs them apparently. |
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--- 26529981 |
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>>26529907 |
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please show me where i said "no return at all" |
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This is why everyone hates you, coastie. |
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--- 26529989 |
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>>26529981 |
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Ya that's not me. I didn't even read all that shit. |
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--- 26530040 |
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>>26529989 |
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Ah, sorry coastie, it's a reflex at this point |
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--- 26530061 |
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>>26529907 |
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What? I said I was gonna run a factory sized 3/8 feed and 1/4 return |
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--- 26530093 |
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>>26530061 |
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I mentioned running a return in the last thread and this retard freaked out and said it won't do anything to help vapor lock and the only thing to do is run really high fuel pressure to stop it from happening. Pants on head retarded. |
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--- 26530139 |
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>>26528921 |
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FE like the big block or Fe like Iron on the periodic table? |
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If you're talking about the big block it uses a shaft mounted rocker system, nobody else uses the same system (unlike stud mount where you can put 7/16" mount 1.6 rollers on a Chevy or Ford if the heads have 7/16" studs). |
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--- 26530165 |
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>>26530139 |
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I should clarify- |
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There's lots of other shaft systems but the FE is .840" whereas the little six is like .780" |
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Nobody else shares rocker parts with the FE afaik. |
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--- 26530197 |
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>>26529992 |
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imagine wasting even 5 minuntes of your life making that, loser LMAOOOOOO |
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|
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ANYTHING YOU REPLY IS COPE |
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--- 26530236 |
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26530197 you deserve canadian healthcare |
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--- 26530247 |
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>>26526897 |
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>I even saw one with an anime background that had a chick that pulled her titties out as you increase RPM. |
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|
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https://www.reddit.com/r/Shitty_Car_Mods/comments/vb7uhe/heres_my_lexus_is250_with_hentai_titty_drops/ |
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|
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I can't believe that this is real. |
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--- 26530289 |
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>>26530247 |
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That's cool as fuck and I want it. |
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Anime is now cool. |
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--- 26530373 |
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>finish a FUCKTON of work |
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>"oh yeah time to daily and enjoy" |
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>fuel pump whining, gas smell in car |
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|
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Sigh... |
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Fuel pump, clamps, hoses, might as well do the regulator and damper just in case. Another 600 bucks in hard to find parts. |
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--- 26530376 |
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>>26530373 |
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Or you could, you know, diagnose and fix the problem instead of just throwing $600 in parts at it. |
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--- 26530516 |
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>>26530376 |
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Sorry if I didn't specify, but the FUCKTON of work is because I won't be satisfied until its as good as new. These bits of the fuel system had passed through the "eh ill do it later" filter, but I can't ignore a gas smell. Even then I'm only doing these few things first before I go full gas line, fuel tank, filler neck hose and gaskets.... it can get far more involved. |
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--- 26530519 |
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>>26530376 |
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Nah Fuck that shit, diagnosis is for CUX. Just hardwire an electric fuel pump straight to the battery and plumb it from your tank to your carb. Fuck regulators and relays and filters and shit. |
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--- 26531129 |
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>>26530376 |
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>/CCG/ |
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One place on /o/ where throwing parts at it is still a win, since everything has to be replaced anyways for older cars. |
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--- 26531455 |
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26530236 |
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C O P E |
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O |
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P |
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E |
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--- 26531565 |
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getting some work done on the pontiac |
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--- 26531570 |
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Just reamed some guy's ass in the pontiac |
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--- 26531591 |
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Poor old nigger thinks it's a caddilac |
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--- 26531740 |
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>>26528486 |
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--- 26532034 |
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>>26531740 |
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That's not an aftermarket steering wheel |
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--- 26532050 |
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>>26526897 |
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THANK YOU for that filename. I randomly remembered this car but couldn't remember the name of it. Tried searching "Green pro touring dart" for hours to zero avail. |
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--- 26532201 |
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randomly decided to go on a research spree and found Dart makes a dual plane for the Vortec 8100, you should also be able to use a Cardone 301845 if the 7th gen cam has a gear on it, if not, a 6th gen cam swap is possible too |
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|
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It should piss a lot of people off at car shows, tall deck BBC's already piss off boomers by existing |
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--- 26532227 |
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>>26526869 |
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All you need is a working gas gauge. |
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--- 26532276 |
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>>26532034 |
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It's a reproduction. |
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I'm not a fan of most aftermarket wheels but there's still cool options out there for classics. |
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--- 26532522 |
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Newfag to classic cars, maybe I won't get raped with (You)s. Looking for suggestions on a reliable, muscle-like car in the range of $7-10k, year model 60s-80s. I don't mind doing work myself but don't want to do repair work more than I actually drive it. My current idea about possible models are: |
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>Olds Cutlass |
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>Mustang II |
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>T-bird |
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>Vega |
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>Corvair |
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Is this a pipe dream for thinking I can get a running, decent condition car at this price point? Should I just save up further and buy a car for 20k from a boomer that has more dollars than sense? |
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--- 26532542 |
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>>26532522 |
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Thunderchicken |
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--- 26532582 |
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>>26532522 |
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From this list the best bangs for your buck are: |
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>T-bird |
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>Corvair |
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They can be gotten for pretty cheap, have lots of features, strong engines, and vibrant aftermarket and enthusiast communities. |
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|
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The best "use it for the platform" cars here are: |
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>Vega |
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>Mustang II |
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They were a little weak when they came out but there's a lot of them available for very small amounts of money, and they're versatile enough for you to rip the engine out and do whatever the fuck you want if you wanna get crazy. |
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|
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I would not recommend buying a Cutlass. It's the most expensive thing on this list, doesn't really offer a whole lot that the T-bird and Corvair don't, and will be more expensive to buy and rip apart than a Vega or a Mustang II. |
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--- 26532591 |
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>>26532522 |
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>>26532582 |
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Also: |
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>Is this a pipe dream for thinking I can get a running, decent condition car at this price point? Should I just save up further and buy a car for 20k from a boomer that has more dollars than sense? |
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Not a pipe dream (yet). I got my 90% complete T-bird for just over $8k and there are Corvairs, Vegas, and MII's for around that amount as well. Any Cutlass you get for that price-point is probably going to be very rusty or a shell though. |
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--- 26532601 |
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>>26532522 |
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chevy is easier than ford and ford is easier than MOPAR |
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|
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>ford maverick/mercury comet |
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>chevy nova/omega/ventura/apollo |
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>vega |
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>duster/dart/scamp |
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>ranchero |
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>el camino |
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>torinos are still cheapish |
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>ford F series |
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>chevy c10/gmc |
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>Dodge W or D series |
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>mercury cougar |
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>le mans |
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>f88 |
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>skylark |
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|
|
There's lots of cool stuff out there in your price range. Depending on what you want your car to do, buy the one that has the closest running gear to what you want. like if you have a preference towards v8 vs inline 6 or auto vs manual transmission. |
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--- 26532612 |
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>>26532601 |
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There's some good things on this list but |
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>mercury cougar |
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>skylark |
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>nova |
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are not going to be in his price range for the years that he wants. Caminos and Rancheros are good adds though; I'll throw in Galaxies as well. |
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--- 26532629 |
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>>26532612 |
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this one isn't too bad. especially for the area |
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https://palmsprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/la-quinta-1968-mercury-cougar-xr/7606600043.html |
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|
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I could have sworn I saw some cheaperish nova equivalents in me area recently, but you're probably right. |
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--- 26532637 |
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>>26532629 |
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That one's not too bad on the surface but |
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>ran when parked |
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Who knows though. If I was in the area I'd definitely check it in person. |
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--- 26532687 |
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>>26532522 |
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Some more general advice also: if you want a car with a big rumbly-bumbly bastard of an engine you have to go with something either pre-1974-75, since after that the oil crisis changed the way that engines were built forever and they all became smaller engines with smaller displacements and smaller amounts of horsepower. Alternatively, if you want something more along the lines of a sportscar, go with something after 1979, since around then companies like Pontiac and Chevrolet figured out how to make super-lightweight V8s that were very fast which brought about a resurgence of the Firebird and the Corvette respectively. Though, if you're buying a car for style and don't care much about what the engine is doing or are planning on replacing the engine entirely, then anything from 1974-1979 is going to be a massive bargain and no classics are going to be cheaper than those. |
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--- 26532703 |
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>>26532601 |
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>chevy is easier than ford and ford is easier than MOPAR |
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Imagine actually believing this. |
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--- 26533221 |
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Damn. My grampa had a 65 Oldsmobile cutlass he couldn't afford to move from Puerto Rico to Florida before he died. Value for the car then was only a few thousand. I wonder what happened to it when my grandparents eventually sold the house. |
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|
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Crazy to think they're so valuable now. Good memories riding in it and washing it with him. |
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--- 26533287 |
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>>26533221 |
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Look alive, boys. We got ourselves a long legged pissed off puerto rican on our hands. |
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Yeah, knowing about all of the cool cars that all of our families have owned that has disappeared over the years is painful. |
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--- 26533353 |
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>>26532703 |
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I think he was referring to the ability to purchase a specimen. |
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As far as the list of holy grails is concerned I'm pretty sure I can get a nice 442 cheaper than a Gran Torino at this point. |
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And trying to find a Bullitt charger just isn't going to happen. |
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--- 26533418 |
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>>26533353 |
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>And trying to find a Bullitt charger just isn't going to happen. |
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You'll just have to purchase one of the 150M General Lee's and repaint it. |
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|
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And then a passer-by will say it would be cool if you painted it like the General Lee. |
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--- 26533456 |
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just the classic American aircraft carrier coupe |
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--- 26533507 |
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>>26533418 |
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Bullitt charger was a 4 door. |
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But go ahead and find me either and I'll give you 25% commission. |
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>they burned through so many chargers filming The Dukes of Hazard that it was easier to just bolt the remnant charger bodies onto ford LTD chassis than to find new chargers. |
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Charger is a unibody. |
|
LTD is BOF. |
|
So imagine being in charge of production and going to the producers and saying "ya, umm...we can't find any more cars to destroy. But the boys down in the motorpool say they can bolt it up to a Ford and it'll look good on film and we can jump that creek again..." |
|
|
|
BTW. |
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The first season or two they actually jumped that thing. |
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Legit, real world craziness. |
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Later seasons it was RC cars. |
|
--- 26533512 |
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>>26533507 |
|
Shit. |
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It wasn't a 4 door. |
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I just realized when I remembered him rolling down the back quarter window. |
|
--- 26533517 |
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>>26533507 |
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>>26533512 |
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Yeah I was about to say, you're misremembering hard on that one. |
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--- 26533543 |
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Idk how drac does this, I'm selling a car on marketplace and the "is this still available" spam and the lowballs in between is getting frustrating |
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--- 26533547 |
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>>26533543 |
|
What are you selling? |
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--- 26533554 |
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>>26533547 |
|
2010 challenger |
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--- 26533559 |
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>>26533547 |
|
A car idiot |
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--- 26533715 |
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>>26533232 |
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>>26533234 |
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>>26533241 |
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>ywnb a fedora wearing 4chan autist daily driving your daimler to your job at wendys |
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--- 26533721 |
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>>26532276 |
|
How do you know that's a repro and not the real thing? Almost every company under GM used a form of that wheel. |
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--- 26533784 |
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>>26533715 |
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But only one of those is a Daimler. |
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--- 26533788 |
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>>26533512 |
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4 door Chargers didn't exist until 2006 |
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--- 26533790 |
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>>26533554 |
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How much u selling it for and what are some of the lowball offers? |
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--- 26533802 |
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>>26533543 |
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Isn't that why he smashed that Caddy? |
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--- 26533809 |
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>>26533543 |
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Where is he? |
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--- 26533812 |
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>>26533790 |
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9.7K, lowest offer so far is 3,8k and I've had someone asking how low I'm willing to go which I guess I should have expected |
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--- 26533824 |
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>>26533812 |
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Is it a hemi? |
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--- 26533831 |
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>>26533824 |
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Yea |
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--- 26533871 |
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>>26533831 |
|
what's a reasonable offer for a 2010 charger with a hemi? |
|
--- 26533883 |
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>>26533871 |
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According to Facebook 15-18k. I priced it low bc of the salvage title. It's not like it's clapped out, it only has 120k miles |
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--- 26533884 |
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>>26533788 |
|
Damn, really? |
|
Sucks to be old and every decade just rolls into the next. |
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But ya, now I remember "a 4 door charger?! Coming to you soon..." on the reboot body style. |
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--- 26533892 |
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>>26533883 |
|
>Salvage Title? |
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Previous owner? |
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--- 26533900 |
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>>26528083 |
|
Unless it's designed for it don't deadhead a pump, just begging for burning it out, pressure issues, and cavitation. Return line helps keep the pump cool as well. |
|
--- 26533905 |
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>>26533721 |
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Because its still In one piece. |
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You think an actual woodgrain GM product would be intact after 40+ years? |
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--- 26533907 |
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>>26533900 |
|
Yea I forgot about that whole idea after reading the msd forums. Gonna do a return and try to keep factory sizes 3/8 and 1/4. I’m probably gonna make new lines and turn them up right at the firewall so I have nothing going forward |
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--- 26533966 |
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>>26533892 |
|
Yea, car got parked next to a fire and it melted a marker light and the bumper cracked paint. Could probably be fixed pretty easy. In fact one of the low balls came from a Hispanic that had posted body work all over their page. If I didn't just want it gone I'd probably paint it for shits and giggles |
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--- 26533968 |
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>>26533966 |
|
Good luck selling it anon; if I was in the area I'd be tempted. |
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--- 26534026 |
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>>26533966 |
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Straight across trade for camaro and all extra parts in my cuck shed |
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--- 26534270 |
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>>26533966 |
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It's not even your car you larping faggot. And you definitely couldn't do a good paint job on it. |
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--- 26534343 |
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>>26533456 |
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Love mine |
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--- 26534370 |
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>>26534343 |
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I'm redoing my headliner and IDK how to get this apart so I can put the headliner fabric under the trim, if anyone knows it'd be helpful. Prying at it with a screw driver has been unsuccessful |
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--- 26534373 |
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Waiting for new /org/ to be baked. |
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--- 26534374 |
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>>26534370 |
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backside |
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--- 26534376 |
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>>26534373 |
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mustprangs |
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--- 26534377 |
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>>26534370 |
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Seam ripper |
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>It's a thing |
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Around the edge, slowly. |
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--- 26534383 |
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>>26534376 |
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Don't be jealous. |
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--- 26534408 |
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>>26534383 |
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cherry2000 is a good moovie |
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--- 26534514 |
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>>26534408 |
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You thought 1984 or animal farm or idiocracy was the future... |
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>ya, they are. |
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But we're in the Cherry 2000 timeline. |
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--- 26534526 |
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>>26534514 |
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>>26534408 |
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>>26534383 |
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|
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can we just go back 20 years lads |
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|
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sure bush was murdering lots of people but we were more naive and innocent, we hadn't yet suffered |
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--- 26534535 |
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>>26532522 |
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Mustang 2 |
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Thunderbird |
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Vega |
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Corvair |
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|
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I live in Texas and I can find some decently priced ones around where I live, but it entirely depends on where you're at. You'll want to set aside a good 5k and you'll be doing alright. |
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--- 26534657 |
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Well well well... Look what I found. |
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--- 26534678 |
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>>26534657 |
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SICK |
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--- 26534769 |
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>>26533907 |
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It's fairly easy to make your own if you buy a decent flare tool. NotcHead clamps work fuckijg wonders for running hard line, used them doing the Sniper setup for my old man's '66 we put a 502 in. |
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--- 26534777 |
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>>26532637 |
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The question you always have to ask is why it was parked |
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--- 26535177 |
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>>26534769 |
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MSD techline torpedoed my idea, they said I can run a hard line for the return but to use 5/16 and they also said can’t use hard line at all on the feed side, |
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>“ The unit uses four 80-lb injectors that operate simultaneously, the rubber line is needed to dampen the pulsing effect in the high pressure line.” |
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Even if I don’t run it PWM and use a regulator apparently it still causes a problem so I’m gonna have to use rubber/nylon hose for the whole thing. Which is already in place on both my feed and return side so Fuck it I guess I’ll just install my new tank and pump assembly and keep my existing rubber nylon hoses |
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--- 26535253 |
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>>26533456 |
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Saw one of these bad boys in Germany with an MPH speedometer and a crusty old "Resident of Anna Maria Island" sticker on the front windshield. Took up two parking spots in length. |
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--- 26535390 |
|
For those of you who daily (or try) to daily your project car, what are your expense estimates? I've started thinking of it like a car payment that won't ever end. As long as I put away 300 a month on a car fund, its been enough to get through anything. |
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--- 26535404 |
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>>26535390 |
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Really depends on the car. If I wasn't replacing my rear shocks and doing the rear main seal, the only "repair" that I've needed to do on my Galaxie was a carb and alternator. Every other dollar I've spent on it has been stuff of my own desires. |
|
|
|
Once you get all the kinks worked out of your car, it's just gas like any other car. |
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|
|
I got some good news from the VA so I may be splurging on some rims and tires soon. |
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--- 26535449 |
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>>26535390 |
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Once you take care of everything it's really not that expensive. At this point it's the usual consumables like oil/fluids, tires, brakes, |
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--- 26535493 |
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>>26535390 |
|
The majority of project vehicles here can have their entire brake system replaced for around 400 bucks. |
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You won't need to do brakes again for a decade. |
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A transmission rebuild kit is going to be around 200 bucks. Do it right and you'll never have to crack open the transmission again in your lifetime. |
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So it might seem expensive and never ending but before you know it you have a bullet proof vehicle. |
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--- 26535532 |
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>>26535493 |
|
That is astronomically cheaper that what I've had to go through, but I am so paranoid that I only replace with new and trusted OEM parts on my 924. I have posted here before about spending over 8k in parts, but was too afraid to say I don't have an american muscle car. Summer is here and now my last 7 months of work can pay off. |
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--- 26536114 |
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>>26535532 |
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>oem Porsche |
|
Ouch. |
|
You're more than likely wasting money though. |
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No manufacturer makes 100% of their components, much of it is outsourced. |
|
Like Denso makes Honda knock sensors. |
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"OEM" knock sensor from the Honda dealer parts counter that comes in a box with "Genuine Honda parts" written on it is $168. |
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A Denso knock sensor for a Honda from rockauto is $53. |
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--- 26536151 |
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>>26534769 |
|
>NotcHead clamps |
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not him but this is the sort of thing that I would never hear about unless from a forum post, hidden in some hour long youtube video, or here. thank you |
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--- 26536200 |
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>>26536114 |
|
This, you have to do some research and figure out what brands to buy. I do the same thing with my Mercedes, $300 for a "Mercedes" MAF or $90 for a Bosch that's the same part |
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--- 26536742 |
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>>26535390 |
|
depends entirely on parts support and information, what's on the shelf? is it oem? is it made recently or 30 years old? what problems are you going to have with the car? Can you prepare for them or fix the problems preemptively? |
|
|
|
lets take my 1980 fairmont for example, parts are available but this would seem deceptive, anything brakes or suspension is 30 year old and junk. If i wanted to use a acdelco/raybestos/not shit master cylinder, i would have to have converted all of the brake lines on the car to metric. |
|
|
|
It was a 200ci engine, fortunately few rubber gaskets, paper holds up well as does permatex, always coated my gaskets and never had leaks. Mahle shipped me front and rear mains that were nice and new. The holley 1946 carburetor was a bitch, 0 information on it. Rigged up a more popular holley 1904 until I learned enough about the 1946 to fix it. I think i had used some generic chevy parts like a fan clutch to get a name brand. Starters and alternators were always junk from the parts stores, had to pick starters used and convert to an acdelco gm 1 wire. |
|
|
|
C4 could be built out of a magazine so i never would have had an issue fixing issues if there were any. No one likes the C5 so when I expected to get a C5 from an '83 and didn't have lockup, there was 0 information to find about it. |
|
|
|
At the end of the day i learned no one liked fairmonts so i waited 5 years to learn the insides of every seam door and subframe were rotting away in the humidity because they weren't painted from the factory |
|
|
|
Since i dont particularly care to learn all the caveats to owning a particularly generic boring car, next time I'll be buying a G body because you can build them from a magazine. |
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--- 26536924 |
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>>26536784 → |
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--- 26537094 |
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>>26536742 |
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Rule number 1 is ignore this faggot, he doesn’t know shit and doesn’t even own a classic. He can’t even fix a simple tractor |
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--- 26537103 |
|
i got a 78 datsun 280z off a guy i worked with before he separated for a grand and its non running, a picturesque project car, rust, crunch, and lots of love needed, it sat for two years |
|
|
|
anyways, i drained the bad gas, purged the fuel lines, new batteries, oil change, dumped and refilled the radiator |
|
|
|
it used to run for a couple seconds and then immediately die, got a new distributor cap, rotor, and ignition cables, as well as new spark plugs (not yet installed) but it doesnt turn over at all now |
|
|
|
any of you friends know esoteric happenings with old ass japanese shitboxes |
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--- 26537113 |
|
>>26537103 |
|
also i even put all the old shit back on and she still wont turn over, looked up the cable placement just to verify i didnt plug shit in wrong, unless the coil suddenly gave up the ghost with the new cabling im not sure whats wrong, im also chasing down vacuum leaks and replacing rotting rubber tubing as i go |
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--- 26537134 |
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>>26537094 |
|
went to the salvage yard and pulled a ignition switch off an old snapper, tractor runs |
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|
|
maybe if your nigger ass stopped sucking jeff bezos's cock and got a real job i wouldn't have to put up with 100% of the chink shit on shelves being nonfunctional |
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--- 26537145 |
|
Anyone have an idea what might cause a single thud noise when I press the clutch? It feels like its coming from the driveshaft or the rear end but its hard to tell for sure. |
|
--- 26537182 |
|
I finally got a chance to figure out why my headlights quit working. The plastic fuses completely melted. I put the old glass ones back in and learned my lesson about replacing fuses that aren't even blown. |
|
also got my new custom shift knob on. Its a bit big so I might see if I can slim it down with a drill and sandpaper or something. |
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--- 26537189 |
|
>>26537182 |
|
Should look much nicer when its a little slimmer. I was thinking about getting a wood Nardi wheel in the future too, but I might just get a cool Ford wheel from Europe. I'm not huge on the stock 2 spoke |
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--- 26537226 |
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>>26537189 |
|
i used a wooden nardi and a hard leather wheel for my vr-4 galant, they are SUPER fucking slippery, so if you do hard turning its an actual detriment not having finger groves for any kind of traction |
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--- 26537288 |
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>>26537134 |
|
Nice haiku faggot |
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--- 26537305 |
|
>>26537145 |
|
Depends on the vehicle, but I've experienced similar from worn slip yoke splines. (Where the driveshaft connects to the transmission) |
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--- 26537328 |
|
>>26535177 |
|
Huh that's odd, we did a full hardline aside from 2 short spots on a Sniper install and it wasn't an issue of any kind. At least soft line is an easy install I guess, just buy good shit and secure it properly and you'll be safe and good. |
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|
|
>>26536151 |
|
They're neat and the self tapper screw inside of them keeps them small and tidy, they're awesome to use, I only found out about them because the guy is actually a local who started making the clamps and the fancy dress up bolts. |
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--- 26537329 |
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>>26536114 |
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>>26536200 |
|
Depends on the parts really. Sensors and spark plugs and shit Yupp Bosch all day, modules are continental or Siemens usually. For trim pieces and interior doodads though Porsche may be the only way to go since Porsche classic actually bought back a lot of the tooling to make the original parts that they previously sold and are trying to regain the market share as “classic repair shops” by stocking factory parts and trained techs. Pretty cool fucking job getting sent to 1 Porsche Drive for months to learn all about classic air cooled’s and take them all the way down to nuts and bolts. While we’re on the subject my buddy in parts recently told me all “Porsche” brand spark plugs are now apparently made by NGK and not Bosch anymore. Wonder what the Fuck happened there, they must’ve lost the contract somehow. |
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--- 26537339 |
|
>>26537328 |
|
I know right I wonder what that’s all about, since most modern cars have hard lines with just a little bit of rubber at the ends and have no problems running a PWM non return system. Those injectors most cause a ton of vibration, or MSD’s full of shit since they sell their hose for 98$ for 15 feet and want you to do buy it “““mandatory”””. I already have the whole system plumbed with 3/8 rubber msd fuel hose right now but I have an inline pump with a pre and post filter that I now don’t need. So I’m gonna have to bypass like a foot of hose to remove the pre filter and in line pump and just keep the post filter since the in tank pump has a screen on it. My boss recommended just leaving everything in place the in case the in tank ever burns out I can just quickly re route power to the in-line and get back on the road, but idk if my in line is a zero restriction pump or not while de-powered |
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--- 26537347 |
|
>>26537339 |
|
Well, fuel line for EFI is expensive as shit as of lately, but MSD loves to charge for their name. If you're having to bypass I'd just toss the pump you already got in the glove box if you're worried about it failing, with that and some hose clamps and hose you can get back on the road if need be. Or spend $100 and have AAA. I'd say dig around on some pages or through the manual for all the stuff and see of you find more about the hard line issue. |
|
--- 26537856 |
|
What can i mix my fluid film with so it becomes thinner and it can cut into existing grease/rust layers. Gasoline would be perfect for this but its too flammable to do the entire underside at once. Diesel takes forever to evaporate |
|
--- 26538379 |
|
>>26537305 |
|
I will have to take a look and see. |
|
--- 26538589 |
|
Damn. Appears the new tank arrived with a damaged filler neck. Also I can hear a bunch of shit rattling around inside possibly the sending unit came apart during shipping |
|
--- 26538808 |
|
>>26537856 |
|
You're supposed to either clean that or not worry about it. If you're thinning the fluid film that's going to defeat the purpose when it just runs off. |
|
--- 26538827 |
|
I went to the barrett jackson auction today, tons of cool classic cars I can't afford |
|
--- 26538836 |
|
So I was doing some research on an engine swap for my car and I found something interesting. On both the 340 and 440 the standard Carter AVS 4bbl gets WORSE fuel economy than a 3x2bbl six pack setup. In turn the 3x2bbl is worse than a Thermoquad but that's not here nor there. My question is why? Shouldn't the six pack be dumping more fuel in at all times? The peak horsepower is substantially higher than either the AVS or aftermarket Holley carbs. |
|
--- 26538847 |
|
>>26538827 |
|
it's a money laundering scheme. car enthusiasts don't buy anything from that auction |
|
--- 26538907 |
|
>>26538847 |
|
T. Brokeass |
|
--- 26538965 |
|
>>26538836 |
|
While cruising, your only using the center carb on a six pack. The outboards carbs open at WOT. |
|
--- 26538985 |
|
>>26538965 |
|
Well I guess that settles the debate about replacing my 318 with a 340 instead of a more expensive and less economical and harder to find 426 HEMI |
|
--- 26539053 |
|
>>26538808 |
|
Thats why i look for a solvent that will evaporate in a few days at most. Ive used plenty of fluid film but after scraping i have found that it doesnt always go into the rust as i had hoped |
|
--- 26539403 |
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>>26538836 |
|
>>26538965 |
|
>>26538985 |
|
>6 Pack |
|
Nick's Garage had an A12 Road Runner that he did some test hits with. there's a camera on the carbs too. Skip to 25:20 and listen as he hangs it off the rev limiter for a couple of eternities because he's old as fuck but also watch the front carb develop some fuel stand-off at that time. |
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZcQogKfJ6w [Embed] |
|
--- 26539852 |
|
Spotted |
|
--- 26540997 |
|
Looks like I'll be picking up a center console for firebird soon along with miscellaneous parts |
|
--- 26541569 |
|
How do I protect my interior when I'm out for a drive and park somewhere for a while? I don't want to fuck up the leather. Is keeping the window open and putting up those window reflector things good enough? |
|
--- 26542148 |
|
>>26541569 |
|
303 aerospace protectant |
|
--- 26542538 |
|
So rather than exchanging the rockauto spectra 21 gallon efi in tank pump kit and possibly getting one damaged exactly the same way I’m thinking of splurging on this kit from classic performance with a 2 piece neck |
|
--- 26542580 |
|
>>26542538 |
|
Was the filler neck cracked where it meets the tank on the other one? |
|
I'd just fit it, make sure it's lined up then have someone weld it. |
|
Hell bring it over and I'll do it for free. |
|
--- 26542622 |
|
>>26542580 |
|
Filler neck cracked and sounds like the sending unit is in pieces. Bottom line whole thing looks like it bounced around in the back of the fedex truck for 4K miles from Canada when I paid 500$ for it |
|
--- 26543067 |
|
>>26531570 |
|
missed this one, janny |
|
--- 26543662 |
|
Did Drac get his new car? |
|
--- 26543709 |
|
>>26543662 |
|
Maybe he had it destroyed by s/o/cal fags |
|
--- 26543734 |
|
Going to drive 16 hours to check corvair out. Guy selling it said a guy from the local corvair club is coming to buy it Friday, but it's first come first serve. |
|
Only concerning part is that it has a spyder engine, but when i asked for pictures of the harmonic balancer to figure out if it's the good 150 or not he said he would get me a picture, but never did. |
|
Don't really want to drop 3k on a 64 with a bum 63 engine, even if the body is rust free. |
|
--- 26544153 |
|
>>26543734 |
|
Buy the suzuki too |
|
--- 26544321 |
|
>1940 Buick four door for sale in my town, runs and drives paint mostly intact, one fender has a good dent in it though and the guy just had $3800 in new interior done to it, interior is really nice |
|
>needs odds and ends which I'm concerned about how to find for a nearly 100 year old car like hinges and locks and shit like that |
|
>wants $4000 for it |
|
Y/n? |
|
|