----- --- 2592291 Hand carving edition. Have you ever tried carving a chess set? >essential /wwg/ books Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA. https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261 Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use Handplane Essentials https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440332983 Handsaw Essentials Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey! Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them. https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/ The Eastern tradition, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465 Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything. https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259 Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depth https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/ Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall apart https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/ >essential /wwg/ tv https://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/ https://www.newyankee.com/ --- 2592369 >>2592291 (OP) Damn, kino. --- 2592435 >>2592291 (OP) pussy willow --- 2592760 Made this as my old one was wearing out. --- 2592766 >>2592760 Looks good, made something similar in previous thread but I don’t have the locking screw thing and turns out I do need one. Are you using a threaded insert? Or hidden nut --- 2592778 >>2592766 Threaded insert. Still need to procure a wing nut or thumb screw to replace the Philips screw. --- 2593239 I have no woodworking experience and today I was given the job to build a shed door with the only information available being the outside dimensions. The door being replaced was total shit and only had 1x2's or something around the edge. So I didn't really but any thought into the design except: Use materials available and build it better Now that I'm home I'm looking for how to make a strong door but all I see is interior pinterest-tier shit. For the next door I build how can I improve the longevity? Two diagonals instead of the cross-pieces in picrel? Materials available: Plywood, 1 and 2 by's. Tools available: Drill, impact, circular saw, arbor saw, radial saw, some metal strut that's probably straight and a 24-inch L-square. --- 2593479 >>2592291 (OP) >Have you ever tried carving a chess set? Yes I have, it's fun. I wanted to use some natural/household coloring for the black pieces but couldn't find anything that works well, so as of now I still haven't painted them. I tried using coffee grounds, tea, vinegar but none of it was dark enough. Any ideas? --- 2593484 >>2593239 Kek --- 2593589 >>2593479 India ink --- 2593591 >>2593239 I would do just one diagonal it's all you really need. If you want to do cross pieces like that you can instead brace it with a tensioned diagonal wire --- 2593677 As a n00b and a basic homeowner that already owns a ton of dewalt 20v tools, would the battery powered jigsaw and router be sufficient for my needs on basic woodworking projects and things such as guitar body building and so forth? I also need a drill press for other things I'm working on. Am I better off finding an older one on craigslist or should I purchase something new? --- 2593698 > be a woodworking youtuber who actually makes something besides live edge epoxy pour faggotry > start clickbaiting hard and make a completely fabricated "scientific test video" about oiled rags catching fire > get called a fucking retard by AvE for faking it and disable comments because you're getting roasted Why are people so dumb? The Bourbon Moth guy is cringy but he is actually pretty skilled at making projects people would actually buy. He's a good resource that doesn't just shill for tools endlessly, although half his videos now are shilling for policygenius or whatever dumb fucking website is buying out all the ad space for youtubers. I just hate that every time some woodworker has good or interesting content they turn into clickbait and ad promoting bullshit. At least we still have fishers shop. I just want cool ideas done by normal people that I can adapt and make for myself or sell. --- 2593715 >>2593677 20v jigsaw cuts fine up to like an inch thick. You may want one that you can angle and has this visual line guide attachment thing. Older ones I’ve seen are usually out of square or full of dust but ymmv --- 2593839 >>2593479 candle soot and a fitting binder + sealer --- 2594457 >spend hours cutting 5 4' rough cut oak 4x4s with my chainsaw before remembering I have a bandsaw Remember to wear a mask when using solvents and stains. --- 2594520 What's the most efficient way to cut the osage wood in picrel into 1cm / 3/8" pieces suitable for knife scales? --- 2594530 Anyone know of any actual decent spray stain product? I tried that Varathane stain and poly 2 in 1 spray and it was pretty grim. For context I have a bunch of little intricate pieces that I need to a. laser cut from 5mm plywood b. sand the plywood to get rid of slight burn marks c then stain the intricate pieces --- 2594540 >>2594520 (These were originally branches and have a diameter of about 40-45mm or 1.5-1.7") --- 2594842 >Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA. The first book is in the virtual library on archive.org You can "rent" it virtually Okay now can someone help me find the third book though? --- 2595670 I have a butcherblock workbench with a lacquer finish. Recently, the edge where I rest my wrist has lost finish in a spot. It's really small and hard to take a picture of. Is there any way to refinish or treat this area to protect the underlying wood? sorry for noob question --- 2595694 So I got this huge mortise drill bit from aliexpress but can’t get it to work properly. At some depth it catches into the wood, pulls the drill press down very hard, rips out a chunk and stalls the drill. Any tips or is it just a shitty tool? I know basic wood drilling technique but haven’t used this spiral kind of drill before --- 2595718 >>2595694 Are you using it with a drill press? Also those kinds of bits don't like super soft wood, chips out as seen in your picture --- 2595722 >>2595694 do you have the reguired holder? --- 2595839 >>2595718 Yea but I tried with a hand drill too and it was a lot worse, it also wants to drift out of place real bad. The end of the bit is not really sharp (not like say a chisel, more like a bitter knife) but I’m not sure if that’s needed with those --- 2596019 >>2595694 >mortise drill bit These things are absolute shit in my experience. --- 2596042 >>2595694 What's your setup? Are you using it with a drill press and mortising adapter or an actual mortising machine? --- 2596442 >>2595722 >>2596042 No I don’t have a holder, it makes more sense now. But with a holder it wouldn’t fit my drill press. I bought it because it was like $8, cheaper than buying a chisel of that size. --- 2596459 >>2596442 https://youtu.be/hxyWfze3qzQ [Embed] He clamps it down on four sides. It pulls material through the bit but I'd probably try to chew small bites at a time if you're stalling. --- 2596555 I'm just gonna buy this and make bird houses as a hobby. Thoughts? --- 2596568 >>2596555 It’s okay. Get some clamps and PU glue as well --- 2596592 What are the alternatives to boxwood? I can't afford boxwood --- 2596627 >>2596592 bagwood --- 2596812 Is there any extra layer of safety to using a pedal switch switch with a table saw? Release the pedal to immediately initiate the spin down then turn off the saw, in my head it makes sense, but am I just retarded for introducing another action into the mix? --- 2596817 >>2596812 foot cover do not want it to spin up because you dropped something --- 2596851 >>2596812 a saw is only safe if your dumbass is at all times away from the hidden sawblade. if you follow that it doesnt even matter if it is spinning or not --- 2597488 What's the name for the type of corner joint where you cut a single piece on one and two on the other then slot the first between the two. Does it have a specific name? I know two is lap, 4 is probably finger joint but what about 3? --- 2597518 >>2597488 Bridal joint? --- 2597522 >>2597518 Yes, thank you. I couldn't remember the name at all If I want to make one should I make the thicknesses equal so that a+b =c? --- 2597525 >>2597522 *or should they all be cut the same width so that a=b=c and a+b=2c? --- 2597661 >>2597525 Usually they're equal thirds, but if you want to mix it up for a certain aesthetic, provided nothing gets to skinny, it's not frowned upon. --- 2597688 >>2597661 I'm curious whether it affects strength. --- 2597702 Picked up a jtech 14 watt laser. It's a lot more powerful than my old Chinese "20 watt". Pretty cool. Going to cut out some jigsaw puzzles and photo transfer images to them. It gets through 1/4 and 3/8 hardwood easily, although mainly it will be used for engraving. --- 2597707 >>2597702 First full test cut. Just want to feel out focal distances and logos. About a 14 minute job in 3/8 walnut, roughly half for the engraving and half for the cutting. Laser engraving is one of the better low effort moneymakers I've found. Diodes aren't very fast but they're easy and reliable for setup, last a long time, and people love having their names or signatures burned into stuff. --- 2597711 >>2597688 You're gluing it I assume so for all intensive porpoises I would assume strength at that point is essentially the same as a solid piece. --- 2597720 >>2597711 No, three inch square wood with a bolt through the centre. --- 2597916 >>2597711 >>2597688 The ends are end grain glued to long grain (with a pure peel force), the overlapping sides are face grain glued to face grain (pure shear). So if you force the joint open I’d expect that the thinnest tenon(s) will just snap off at the shoulder, and thus a=1/4, b=1/2 and c=1/4 would be the strongest combination. But thirds is more aesthetic --- 2598679 What is the easiest way to finish this bed without power tools? I made a guide from a scrap but I can't shoot it as none of my planes have a wide enough blade, so I'm freehanding it. --- 2598681 >>2598679 --- 2598826 >>2596555 It's a good saw, been using it last year or so. Just built my desk with it. --- 2599223 >tenon >shoulder >rabbet >kerf >on center Okay. I fully admit it. I know absolutely nothing about any woodworking terminology, but damn it, I want to get started on learning and making shit. Could anyone recommend any good books that would serve as a woodworker's dictionary or woodworker's glossary, if such a thing exists? I already own several books on woodworking, but they all assume I know what all these fancy high-faluting craftsman words mean, and I'd like to be able to follow along with these guides so I can get a few things started. I already bought the tools and I refuse to let them sit around collecting house dust instead of creating saw dust. --- 2599256 >>2599223 you already own woodworking tools and books, my suggestion would be to get some actual practice and learn the glossary freely on the internet as you go, picking one project after another. There's a shitload of free content, start to lurk moar actual woodworking forums --- 2599279 >>2595670 Sorry anon but with that much damage you may just have to move to another zip code. --- 2599323 >>2599256 >learn the glossary freely on the internet I learn better through books, that's why I was specifically asking about that as an option. I don't own a smartphone, and I'm not going to do woodworking in the same room as my computer, that would be a nightmare for dust control. --- 2599579 What can I make out of firewood? I'm fairly sure that this is some sort of gum --- 2599584 Where do you guys get your wood? --- 2599585 >>2599584 From my neighbours' stockpiles within easy reach from the footpath --- 2599665 >>2599579 I have used oak firewood to make tool handles. --- 2599673 Are several coats of Linseed oil enough as a finish on furniture? I haven't looked too much into sealants and all these other compounds that exist nowadays, but something tells me that they exist because they fill some gap in the marketplace. --- 2599713 >>2597702 >>2597707 so its only the laser head? and you mounted it on your existing cnc? what cnc you got --- 2599744 >>2599673 you cannot really call is finished until you smother it in 100 thou poly --- 2599754 >>2599713 Yep, just the head. My cnc is a onefinity x50. Good machine for a hobbyist with a few weird quirks. --- 2599762 >>2599673 It’s normally too weak for most furniture, wouldn’t do table tops or chair legs. I’ve never tried boiled linseed oil though, they say it’s stronger. Imo raw linseed oil is only good for like art pieces that won’t be touched a lot, or stuff that needs to be absolutely food safe and will be refinished often. --- 2599782 >>2599762 What about polymerised linseed? --- 2599793 >>2599782 Better but still not a really hard finish. Okay for chair legs or shelves but not for cutting boards or table tops imo. Also the rough underside of porcelain plates and mugs scratches it pretty easily --- 2599797 >>2599793 beeswax? --- 2599857 >>2599762 Alright. My friend swears by Linseed and while I do like it he can be fairly dogmatic about things every now and then. I'll be starting my education in carpentry starting this fall and am hoping to become a professional, there's a lot to learn and a lot of hobbyist-tier information online if that term makes any sense. Like my well intentioned friend I'm sure most such information comes from a good place but I really am looking to do things properly. >>2599361 → Also if anyone has advice regarding this then I'd appreciate it. I'm going to spray it down with an anti-microbial solution now, and then tomorrow I'll give surfaces planing sanding scraping and whatnot. I'll apply a coat of Linseed to it tomorrow after it dries/rests from the spray and figure out what to finish it with in the couple weeks the Linseed will take to properly dry. Bench is fairly lightweight, not perfect by any means but I didn't have any proper surface to do things on so I'll start with this and eventually build a proper big and hefty workbench myself. --- 2599875 >>2598679 Put a piece of sandpaper down on a flat surface and sand your guide perfectly flat. --- 2599963 What's a good woodworking /diy/ hobby to get into as a beginner? Either minimal tools or cheap tools or whatever --- 2600103 >>2599963 Whittling, carving. look up what a Kuksa is, and make one. Everything else that comes to mind requires more tools and a dedicated space, the above you can just take a bag with you into the forest and sit on a log or rock and make something nice. This will also teach you how different woods feel to work with depending on their properties, which is pretty nice to have once you start doing something that requires chisels. --- 2600326 Sharpened my plane blades, cleaned them and gave them an oil coat. I didnt get them quite as sharp as I would've liked to, my diamond stone got them pretty far but my whetstones didn't really add much, they cut fine but they wont quite shave hairs. Both probably need a regrinding, theres some chips in the smaler one, and the edge on the bigger one didn't feel quite flat when I was working on it. Both have a curve at one of the sides as well. Either way I'm happy to give these rescues some new life, and I'm happy with how well I did given that I'm inexperienced. --- 2600329 >>2600326 give them a strop on your pants, if they cut paper cleanly after you got some burr chasing to do, or draw them trough some hardwood endgrain. remember, this is all technique, dont get talked into endless gearfagging --- 2600336 >>2600329 Yeah, I'll give them a stropping when I get back. They do cut through the thick paper I use to test it just fine I was just hoping this'd be the time I get a blade sharp enough to cut someone with a glance. I only just now in my picture saw the chipping on the right side of the bigger blade, not the biggest deal but yeah I'll regrind it whenever I get a bigass stone to grind it on, I saw a neglected one in a nearby forest at a city depot/storeplace so if I ever get a chance to ask someone there I'll ask if I can just have it. I'm not really into gearfagging, I just got a real cheap whetstone ages ago so I'll look to upgrade that into a proper diamond stone ~1000 grit, and maybe a finer whetstone if I can be assed. I want a low number of very good tools that will last. --- 2600341 >>2600326 >Both have a curve at one of the sides as well. The bigger one looks intentionally cambered. You don't always want a perfectly straight edge. A light camber lets you take shavings in the middle of a piece without leaving a perceptible groove in the wood. >>2600336 Diamond stones kind of suck. They very quickly lose their aggressive cut. In my opinion they're only worth their exorbitant price tags if you sharpen professionally. If you want a really good whetstone I'd suggest Naniwa's Professional series. A single 1000 grit stone ought to be enough with the addition of a ~6000 grit strop and will last you a lifetime. Regrinding fucking sucks on any manual stone. Pick up a shitty wet grinder (they cost less than a good stone) with a rough (<100 grit) stone on it for regrinding, then set the bevel proper by hand. Remember to get a flattening stone to dress your stones. --- 2600367 >>2600341 >The bigger one looks intentionally cambered Now that I look again at is it does look pretty intentional, has a smooth curve. >Diamond stones kind of suck I'm going to be doing carpentry professionally, although right now I'm just starting out. >I'd suggest Naniwa's Professional series I'll bookmark these for later, I think currently I have some kind of Suehiro combination stone that was ~60 bucks. Of course my technique does leave a lot to be desired currently but I can currently afford good tools and tool supplements so I'd like to buy something good, and then know for sure that it's just me that sucks and not what I'm working with. Thanks for the help! --- 2600393 >>2600367 Between the various stones I've used, which range from very cheap to very expensive, the main difference between cheap and expensive stones is that the cheap ones are very soft/light which means they wear quickly, are easy to gouge if you catch a corner, and are slow. I've not had problems with the quality of the grind they offer, only how painful they are to use. Running a plane blade corner down a cheap stone will cut a massive groove into it. Running it down a dense magnesium bound stone will grind the corner off the blade and the stone won't care. --- 2600397 >>2600367 told you before, beware of getting sweet talked into gearfagging. let me phrase it like this, there is a reason a lot of youtube shills migrated away from syntethic waterstones. they are expensive, messy, a pain to keep up and they are not even that superior to the plethora of alternatives that exist. i have a ~1k 30€ ceramic oil stone, it blows my shaptons out of the water --- 2600419 I'll add my two cents into the sharpening quagmire as a professional furniture maker for the past 10+ years. I've had/used oilstones, whetstones, diamond stones, tormeks etc. and personally settled on dmt duosharp diamond stones. The key to sharpening any commonly used edge tool in woodworking is establishing a hollow grind first and leaving yourself with a minimal amount of work to do on your stones, whatever type they may be. I like diamond stones as they're always flat and they don't need any prep to use aside from a spray with water mixed with a little detergent. So long as you're not using them for mass material removal they last just fine. The coarse stone will quickly establish a burr, the extra fine stone will remove and refine the edge, then a quick strop on some leather with honing compound achieves a wickedly sharp usable edge QUICKLY. That's the key here, so many people spend way too long sharpening. I don't reestablish the hollow grind until it's almost no longer visible, and always get the most out of each sharpening by using micro bevels. --- 2600436 >>2600419 This is perfectly reasonable, especially for professional use. I maintain that regrinding primary bevels (as in changing the angle or shape of the blade) by hand is retarded, having done it a fair few times on appropriate stones. Electric wet grinders are cheap and primary bevels don't need to be terribly precise. Last time I needed a lot of metal removed I paid a guy with a regular bench grinder to remove the brunt of the material because it would have taken hours. --- 2600503 >>2599963 Whittling Marquetry if you’re artsy (can be done on a small desk with just a lamp with zero noise or dust) Bird houses I started out making shitty toy cars using just a coping saw, hand saw and a ton of sandpaper. If you’re more into furniture look up that Rex Kruger guy on you tube he makes some kinda decent stuff with like $60 in tools --- 2600505 >>2599963 wicker weaving --- 2600522 >>2600336 Imo, a 1k diamond is as fine as you need, and just use compound on a strop to go finer from there. Some people use finer oil or water stones (and I have in the past for that matter) but 1k to green compound, which iirc is around 6k equivalent, seems to work well for me. I only do this as a hobby though so ymmv. >>2600436 I use a bench grinder personally but some care needs to be exercised for heat. As long as you cool it and stay away from grinding near the actual edge it is pretty safe. --- 2600956 How do I create a straight miter cut along the long side of a piece of wood 8plywood in this case) without a tablesaw? --- 2600963 >>2600956 Saw jig and or hand plane or jigsaw or circular saw or Japanese saw --- 2600964 >>2600522 >>2600436 >>2600419 Alright, I'll get a ~1k DMT to go with my 325/600 one and call it there. I've got a strop and green polish compound already.