----- --- 2421998 i booked a flight for three weeks in Uzbekistan in the fall, flying in and out of Tashkent. I want to see as much as possible as I'm probably going to go once. I'm going to travel by train when necessary, especially through Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva, as well as out to Nukus and the Aral Sea (or what's left of it anyway). What are the best cities to see in the Fergana Valley? Is it worth hopping over to Osh? I know I'll have to get a multientry visa if I do. Is there anything worth going into Southern Uzbekistan for past Shakrishabz, like Termez or Qarshi? Anything else I should know or watch out for there? My vague feeling is that there is going to be a lot less touts than Morocco, but on the flip side a lot less tourist friendly.. --- 2422013 >>2421998 (OP) What date are you flying in and how much were flights? I want to do a central Asia trip at years end. I've heard that basic Russian is very helpful there. So perhaps brush up on that while you can. I saw an anon on /int/ was there just last week, you could try asking there as well --- 2422096 >>2421998 (OP) >Is there anything worth going into Southern Uzbekistan for past Shakrishabz, like Termez or Qarshi? Shakrishabz is a depressing shithole don't go there unless you're doing something else in the region. However, the drive to Shakrishabz from Samarkand is very nice, make sure you have your own car/taxi so you can stop on the pass for tandoor chicken. Going South is recommended if you have time, i.e. more than two weeks. >Is it worth hopping over to Osh? I know I'll have to get a multientry visa if I do. It's worth staying for a night if you don't have visa hassles, both countries are visa-free for me so I don't know if a multi-entry visa is more complicated than a simple e-visa. If you end up going to Kyrgyzstan you can also consider a night at Arslanbob for something different. >What are the best cities to see in the Fergana Valley? You'll likely end up seeing Andijan, especially if you're planning to visit Osh. Kokand is the most interesting town in the Uzbek part of the valley but you can take taxis and marshrutkas to Fergana/Margilan/Rishton. If the visa situation allows it, you can return back to Tashkent via Khujand in Tajikistan. --- 2422107 >Nukus and Aral Sea Try to see if you can catch the flight between Nukus (NCU) and Moynaq (MOK). It's once a week and costs 5 dollars and it'll save you the 4 hour ride on a city bus with limited seats, i.e. you'll have to stand if you're not early enough. Either go there for a day trip, flying in and taking the bus out or stay overnight on the former Aral Sea with a tour. The town of Moynaq can be seen within two or three hours of walking, that includes visiting both museums. >Nukus Visit the State Museum, plan enough time. The bazar is worth a visit, as well as the Mizdakhan necropolis a couple kilometres West, near the Turkmen border. People including taxi drivers don't know it, so it's worth having them wait at the entrance (42.4038 59.3865) for an hour. Try the cakes at Cake Bumer next to the State Museum for a very different perspective of Karakalpakstan. Anyway, I'll check this thread for replies every now and then, so ask away! --- 2422514 >>2422096 Thanks. >Shakrishabz is a depressing shithole don't go there unless you're doing something else in the region. However, the drive to Shakrishabz from Samarkand is very nice, make sure you have your own car/taxi so you can stop on the pass for tandoor chicken. Going South is recommended if you have time, i.e. more than two weeks. I heard Shakrishabz could be done as a day trip from Samarkand. I should see both Termez and Qarshi. i thought about dropping it since its off the main train lines. What's out there that's cool aside from looking across the river at Afghanistan? >It's worth staying for a night if you don't have visa hassles, both countries are visa-free for me so I don't know if a multi-entry visa is more complicated than a simple e-visa. If you end up going to Kyrgyzstan you can also consider a night at Arslanbob for something different. I have to get an e-visa for Uzbekistan. I think it'll cost me an extra 20 USD for multi entry. Kyrgyzstan is visa free. If I go back to the region, I thought about doing something like Kazakhstan/Krygzstan some day, but that's for another thread. >You'll likely end up seeing Andijan, especially if you're planning to visit Osh. Kokand is the most interesting town in the Uzbek part of the valley but you can take taxis and marshrutkas to Fergana/Margilan/Rishton. If the visa situation allows it, you can return back to Tashkent via Khujand in Tajikistan. I thought about Namagan, though that's off the train line. Andijan I'd probably do even without Osh just to go through most of the valley. I'll look into Kokand. --- 2422528 >>2422107 >Try to see if you can catch the flight between Nukus (NCU) and Moynaq (MOK). It's once a week and costs 5 dollars and it'll save you the 4 hour ride on a city bus with limited seats, i.e. you'll have to stand if you're not early enough. Either go there for a day trip, flying in and taking the bus out or stay overnight on the former Aral Sea with a tour. The town of Moynaq can be seen within two or three hours of walking, that includes visiting both museums. $5 for a flight? I wouldn't expect that anywhere. I'm guessing I don't have to take my shoes off first for that one. I did consider the group tour even though it'll be more expensive just because its easier. I'm expecting Uzbekistan to be a bit harder to get around than say Morocco, Mexico, or SEA. >Visit the State Museum, plan enough time. The bazar is worth a visit, as well as the Mizdakhan necropolis a couple kilometres West, near the Turkmen border. People including taxi drivers don't know it, so it's worth having them wait at the entrance (42.4038 59.3865) for an hour. Try the cakes at Cake Bumer next to the State Museum for a very different perspective of Karakalpakstan. Sounds like I'd have to stay a bit longer in Karakalpakstan to see everything than I was expecting. I always worry about spending too much time in too few places or vice versa. --- 2422552 Termez has a daily overnight train to Samarkand/Tashkent, 4 times a week even to Andijan, similar situation for Qarshi Definitely worth going if you have enough time, you'll get to see another aspect of Uzbekistan that is seen less than the Big Three of Samarkand/Bukhara/Khiva. >I'm guessing I don't have to take my shoes off first for that one. It's a full-fledged Uzbekistan Airlines flight, you even get a drink before take-off. For a dollar more you can check 20kg of luggage. The flight is an experience on its own. >I did consider the group tour even though it'll be more expensive just because its easier. If you want to stay overnight then I'd recommend a guided tour because camping somewhere in the former Aral Sea will definitely more impressive than staying in whatever guest house in Moynaq. >I'm expecting Uzbekistan to be a bit harder to get around than say Morocco, Mexico, or SEA. I found it surprisingly easy if you speak some basic Russian and know some very basic pleasantries in Uzbek, but I'm biased since I have lived and worked in the region for some time. Definitely fewer touts than more popular tourist destinations but you shouldn't blindly trust people anyway, always make sure you know the approximate prices of goods and services, look at travel guides and Caravanistan or ask random locals for help. --- 2422663 >>2422552 Thanks for the information. What was your work there? --- 2422868 Can you even sleep on those really? I'm guessing like its the train I took in Vietnam which was slow and clunky. I know the fast trains will be great. But I'm worried about being miserable on a train for 9 hours or so. --- 2422872 >>2422868 They're like Russian trains, in platzkart (3rd class) you're on a berth in an open space, in kupe (2nd class) you're in a closed compartment with 4 beds. If you're concerned about not being able to sleep because of your neighbors you can bribe the conductors to arrange a private compartment for you. The fast trains aren't that fast and the slow trains aren't that slow. >>2422868 Business developmnent in Almaty and Bishkek. --- 2423583 How's the cooming in Uzbekistan? --- 2424852 >>2421998 (OP) Do you speak any Russian OP? It'll be a more common second language than English --- 2424898 >>2424852 >It'll be a more common second language than English To say that Russian is "more common" than English is an understatement. --- 2425872 >>2424852 No, admittedly I'm trying to travel somewhere a bit harder than what I've been used to. I think I can fit all the cities if I spent a full day in cities in between traveling everywhere. Maybe an extra day in Samarqand. This will probably be my one time in Uzbekistan so i want to make it count. --- 2425899 I'd be interested in you posting a trip report when you get back OP, I'm considering going to central Asia in maybe two or three years, depending on my current travel plans. --- 2425901 >>2422096 >make sure you have your own car/taxi What's car rental like in the region? I'm a competent driver but don't know anything about local driving conditions. --- 2425902 >>>2366410 Check it on the archives. --- 2425960 >>2425901 If you're moving between cities I recommend you to look into shared taxis. If you are going for day trips I recommend you to hire a car with a driver, it's not much more expensive than a rental car and you don't have to deal with traffic and traffic police trying to hassle you. The usual rental chains aren't present, so you'll have to rely on smaller companies and individuals, Caravanistan has a list of them and their forum has some more plus reviews. --- 2425971 >>2425960 That's what I thought. Are the drivers closer to uber/grab drivers or is it basically glorified hitch hiking in a car falling apart with a driver who will get distracted and take you off road by accident? --- 2425980 >>2425971 Depends on the driver. Most shared taxis are at a solid second world standard, i.e. used cars from all over Europe and East Asia. If you're going for a dedicated driver then you have the whole range from Soviet era Lada to last year's Lexus. --- 2425981 >>2425971 Street traffic is the biggest risk to tourists in the area anyway, similar to SEA and South America. In bigger cities you can also use Yandex Taxi to hitch a ride, lower risk of being ripped off and you may be able to pick a price/comfort level. --- 2426895 >>2425981 Drivers are really as bad as Vietnam? --- 2429163 >>2425902 Alright then --- 2430980 >>2426895 Less traffic density in cities but higher risk overland. --- 2431952 >>2421998 (OP) Hey OP! I'm western and I've been traveling in Central Asia now for over a month. Spent 3 weeks in Kyrgyzstan, 1 week in Uzbekistan, 3 days in Tajikistan and now I've just arrived in Almaty. I traveled everywhere by train. You can buy it online and it is very easy, the site is in English. >Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva KINO, get a train and head over them. The uzbek architecture is awesome. >Fergana Valley I came into Uzbekistan through Osh and there's nothing worth of your time in Fergana. Andijan is a shit hole, I had to wait for my train there for like 6 hours. > Tashkent Really nice capital. 4-5 days should be more than enough. They have a good metro that costs 1400 sum. The park of the Museum of Victims of Repressions is my favourite place in Tashkent. >OSH I left Osh at 8 in the morning and got to Tashkent at 11pm. So you're going to lose 2 days to get back and forth and I dont think Osh is very worth it. Although Salomon Mountain is very nice. >Speaking russian I spent 3 week learning Russian in Kyrgyztan and it helped A LOT. Most people didn't speak English and my very basic russian was enough to allow me to order at restaurants in russian and buy tickets at the train station. I recommend PIMSLEUR method to learn it quickly for free (on Youtube) >Tajikistan I would definitely recommend you getting an e-visa and visiting Dushanbe. It is the most beautiful city of Central Asia in my opinion. There's a train from Tashkent to Dushanbe every tuesday. Absolutely worth it. >Money and cards Most hotels I stayed didnt accept cards and were only cash payment. All of them accepted dolars (if you're using Booking). You will need cash pretty much everywhere but ATMs are plenty. Im still in Central Asia so feel free to AMA. Pic related: me in Samarkand train station 3 days ago --- 2431989 >>2431952 >The uzbek architecture is awesome Why are Americans so uneducated. --- 2432102 >>2431952 Delete your post and reformat the faggot out of it, you reddit tourist. --- 2432264 >>2432102 Bruh, do I look 14 to you? I dont give a shit about formatting, Reddit vs 4chan or whatever XD While you're triggered, Im traveling around the world :D --- 2432274 >>2432264 you definitely type like you're 14. the reason reddit spacing is discouraged is it's really hard to read, so people will just give up halfway through --- 2432310 >>2431952 >> Tashkent >Really nice capital. 4-5 days should be more than enough. They have a good metro that costs 1400 sum. The park of the Museum of Victims of Repressions is my favourite place in Tashkent. Can you say what you like about it and why you consider it worthy of 4-5 days? Literally every other time I've seen the city mentioned it has been to say how much of an industrial shithole it is, with zero touristic merits. --- 2432321 >>2431952 Thanks for the input I have 4 weeks in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan Are there any cities in Kyrgyzstan worth staying a night? I land in Bishkek and think whether I should: leave to karakul as soon as possible or should I stay in Bishkek two nights and see the city in the evenings and have a nearby day trip --- 2432371 >>2432321 Bishkek is boring to visit and nice to live in. If you're interested in post-Soviet cities and/or bazars then you should stay a night or two, also if you want to see Ala-Archa national park. It's also worth staying a night if you're a couple weeks into your trip because it has the biggest selection of foreign restaurants second only to Almaty, again you can combine that with some day trips in the Chuy region (Alamudin, Ala Archa, Tokmok, etc.) Karakol is worth staying a night if you haven't stayed somewhere nearby. Osh is certainy worth staying a night even if only to rest between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. --- 2432383 Fergana valley doesn't have a lot I found enjoyable honestly. But I am going to oush back on the anti-Osh brigade. It's a fine town with a huge bazaar but most importantly is a great point to access trailheads and valleys in the Altay mountains. --- 2432404 >>2432310 I wouldn't spend 5 days but if you're flying in an out of there you can easily spend 4 days there, especially if you're open to day trips in the area. You could even squeeze in an overnight trip to Khujand in Tajikistan if it doesn't cause you visa trouble. --- 2432456 >>2432371 Thanks, so I will probably skip Bishkek as Ala archa Park looks inferior to other places in Kyrgyzstan How did you get from osh to Samarkand? The train trip from andijan to samarkand takes 12 hours by the Kyrgyzstan rail site, and the travel times are not even at night (eg 08-20) The fast train tickets run out fast so I need to plan ahead how long I should be in each Uzbekistan city, are two nights good for samarkand, bukhara and khiva each? The dried sea looks boring so I won't be in nukus --- 2432466 >>2431989 Э бля yдaли нaхyй зapeжy бля нaхyй!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! --- 2432477 >>2432456 Ala Archa is pretty nice but it really depends on what else you're going to see in Kyrgyzstan. >How did you get from osh to Samarkand? Osh to Andijan is easy, either by shared taxi or by marshrutka/bus. Andijan to Samarkand has 6 different connections, most of them during the day. Why don't you head to Khiva or Bukhara first from Andijan and then track back to Samarkand? That way you can take advantage of overnight connections while still seeing some of the Fergana valley from the train. >How long I should be in each Uzbekistan city? Two nights each is fine, although I would add a third night in Samarkand, especially if you arrive late or leave early. --- 2432490 >>2432477 >why not going to khiva first My general itinerary so far: -Land in Tashkent, two nights to see the city -Fly to Bishkek 2.5 weeks to hike in Kyrgyzstan, around karakul and alay in the south -finish in osh, cross the border to andijan -waste of day going to samarkand -2 nights samarkand -2 nights bukhara -2 nights khiva -Fly from khiva to Tashkent -less than a day in Tashkent and fly home No plans to see nature in Uzbekistan as it would be underwhelming after Kyrgyzstan >t. basic Russian skills, first big trip alone --- 2432497 >>2432490 As I said depending on your concrete dates it might be worth going from Andijan directly to Bukhara or Khiva on an overnight train and then go backwards to Samarkand, thus not "wasting" a day. At the moment booking trains in Uzbekistan is messed up for some reason, way fewer tickets available per train than usual, many travellers are complaining about it. --- 2432513 >>2432497 Thanks for bringing the option to take a train from andijan to khiva, it will give more flexibility of how long to stay in each city Only downside is that the journey would take 22 hours and there are no seats in the train app no matter which day I choose, definitely a soviet bug --- 2432529 >>2432513 You're welcome. Don't forget that you can also use domestic flights to Tashkent, so a possible route could be: >train from Andijan to Bukhara >shared taxi from Bukhara to Khiva >flight from Khiva (UGC) to Samarkand via Tashkent (5.5 hours, 60 dollars >train from Samarkand to Tashkent The lack of space on trains is concerning, you have to continuously check if they're available (that's what Caravanistan says) or buy them via an agency. Don't forget that you can bribe conductors to give you a better compartment but you won't be able to board the train without a valid ticket. --- 2433147 >>2432513 It happened to me as well. You need to login a few minutes past midnight, when they make a new batch of tickets available. --- 2433709 >>2421998 (OP) Good bread op --- 2435596 >>2423583 hidden but existing --- 2435606 Didn't expect to see that thread here, too bad I've already returned. Here's Anonymous HQ in Samarkand, I guess. --- 2435759 >>2435606 What the fuck? --- 2436005 Considering going to Uzbekistan solo this summer if euro trip with friends doesn't work out. Is it too hot and dry in July to be enjoyable? How safe is it to wander around alone? Might pass by Kirghizistan also if time allows. --- 2436090 >>2436005 It will be hot and dry. I found it enjoyable since it wasn't humid but YMMV, especially if you're sensitive to heat. You cannot count on places having AC. I found it safe to wander out alone at any time of the day and night, definitely safer than some US cities. Stay away from drunks and watch your step since the pavements tend to be uneven and manholes may not be fully covered. >Might pass by Kirghizistan also if time allows. Definitely do so, it will not be as hot there, especially in the mountains or near lakes. --- 2438308 >>2435759 Walk to the right from the railway station intersection (one with "Vokzal Market") past the school. --- 2438848 Thank you based Pegasus airlines for making flights to Osh dirt cheap. Got my two weeks booked in for the last part of June. How is the border crossing to UZ at Dostyk? --- 2439579 >>2436090 >It will be hot and dry. I hate the heat and sweat a lot but never get sick from it. Would you recommend going another time? How about the weather in Kirghizistan in the moutains? --- 2439597 >>2439579 If you want to hike in the mountains, summer is the time. It is still cool up there and you need to be prepared for cold weather blowing in. --- 2439827 >>2439579 I was fine in Central Asian summer, be it in up to 40° sun in Turkestan, 20° windy Astana, 32° Bishkek or at the 28° shores of Issyk-Kul. Again, it can get hot but for me the heat was much more comfortable than slightly lower temperatures in Thailand, Japan or Korea since it isn't humid. --- 2440617 bump --- 2440761 >>2440617 Bump 2.0 --- 2440817 >>2439597 How do you find yurts when trekking in Kyrgyzstan mountains? Are the nomads spread all over and I can just pop in? --- 2440867 >>2440817 You can find a hiking business in the nearest city and go with a guid who arranges it, or you go prepared with a tent and treat a yurt as a bonus. --- 2440947 >>2440867 Thanks fren --- 2440993 >>2440817 There are also yurt camps geared towards tourists (mostly domestic/Russian) that serve as bases for day treks in the area. They'll offer you a yurt for yourself or to share with others, usually with breakfast/dinner included, optionally also lunch or lunch boxes. --- 2441215 >>2440817 Also, if you are in a vaey you'll probably find a yurt, but not up the slopes. Sounds obvious but knew a retarded German who spazzed out about this when he had a fucking ridge walking route.