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[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If I felt like that, I'd have to tell every second cyclist I see at night that they ought to have lights.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Has anybody been able to educate them?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ring your bell. :-)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have in the past stopped and held up my hand in a 'stop' gesture and had a short conversation with people riding the wrong way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If they stop, which they normally do, I typically and quickly try to point out: Wrong way riding is illegal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's substantially more dangerous.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Our state is a contributory negligence state, so if you are in an accident you will likely collect much less or nothing at all.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And I finish with:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe it's none of my business, but everyone is better off when we all follow the expected traffic rules.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Generally I get a response that ranges between acceptance and indifference.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The anecdotal evidence that it works is that they usually cross the street and on my typical route I seem to see fewer 'salmon'.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Truth is, they may be thinking I'm a crackpot and crossing back over as soon as I am out of sight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Only once has someone yelled or argued with me.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, I don't stop messengers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They generally know the rules and are choosing to flaunt them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm sure there are cultural differences between NYC and where I live, but I've found that any attempts at yelling \" Don't go the wrong way! \", \" You're gonna kill yourself!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ride with traffic! \"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "or something like that at a passing cyclist get no acknowledgment, get dismissed (\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "yeah,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "yeah, whatever\"), or hostility.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's very few wrong-way cyclists that seem open to being educated.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm really hoping somebody can share some techniques that have seemed to reach the salmon.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think the one thing I know of working is police ticketing them, especially since here one of their options for dealing with the ticket is taking a bicycle safety class from a LAB certified instructor via the local cycling advocacy group.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In the US there's been federal grant money for \"bicycle safety\" that police departments can apply for to pay for overtime for police officers to concentrate on ticketing cyclists for dangerous illegal behaviors.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It might be possible to convince your local police department to apply for some of that funding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As far as how to keep yourself safe, hugging the curb and slowing down works great.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since they can see the oncoming traffic they're better situated for a dodge out of the bike lane.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Slowing down so that you can stop quickly is helpful, too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If there's cars next to you, this doesn't work as well, since wrong-way cyclists are generally willing to ride in the door zone without thinking twice about it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's not your problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Leave them be.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Do your own thing, swim your own path.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's easy to say that", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but life's too short.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If they're not going to listen to what you say and it would just annoy you even more than it apparently already does, then just leave them to it and go on about your day.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Unless someone has actively endangered me with their stupidity, then I'm inclined to just ignore it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not a cop, they'd not pay me any attention anyway.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If I'm feeling particularly belligerent then I might deliberately get in their way (I do tend to do this with pavement riders when I'm a pedestrian), but generally that's just risking their anger and they wouldn't learn anyway.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It'd be best if they simply obeyed the traffic laws, but the few times I've brought this up with wrong-way riders, I've encountered everything from disbelief to hostility.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I simply do my best to avoid them and not collide with them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "To that end, I've found that you can usually \"direct\" these riders within the bike lane or shoulder.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I see them in the distance riding towards me, I'll point at them, then left, while I simultaneously move to the right.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(If time permits, I'll point at myself first , to make it clear", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm saying \"How about if we both ride on the right side of this lane.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It almost always works, and many wrong-way cyclists actually seem to appreciate this; I've gotten a few friendly nods from doing this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This technique has worked on the streets of New York City, various locations in New Jersey, and also while on tour in Rhode Island.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, note that some areas may have laws that make signaling like this problematic, possibly opening you up to liability", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if there's an accident caused by your signals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "( Here's an example .)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange", "score": 5 } } ]

{ "question": "Frustrated cyclist \"jegrgic\" poses this question at the New York Cycling Club (NYCC) website . They say: When I see this, I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense. But typically, I just do my best to avoid them (usually by going into traffic) and swear under my breath while shaking my head. Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? Has anybody been able to educate them? Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded?", "title": "How should I deal with bike messengers + others (salmon) riding the wrong way in a bike lane?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><advocacy><bike-lane>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6282", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1835/samthebrand" }

[ [ "Cyclists have a variety of ways of dealing with other cyclists riding the wrong way in a bike lane. Some people believe it is better to keep out of their way and ignore them. Others believe they should be confronted. The only thing that seems to stop them is the police ticketing them. Each cyclist has to make up their own mind.", "Most responders find that these cyclists are not usually responsive to correction, unless this is by a police officer with the power to punish offenders. Rather than seeking to educate people, it can help to ring your bell and indicate your direction of travel, then look after your own safety." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "While it can be tempting to correct these cyclists, many people find that this has little effect if you are not a police officer with the power to punish offenders. It may be better to leave them be and worry about your own safety.", "It can help to ring your bell and indicate where you will be riding, then try to avoid them. Getting in their way can just get them angry." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I would at least put road tires on your mountain bike - they really improve your efficiency on pavement.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your commute is urban w/ lots of stops & traffic navigation, the mountain bike handlebar setup can be more maneuverable for tight situations than a road/touring bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I do miss the maneuverability of my mountain bike since switching to a road bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A commuter or hybrid bike may be a very good option, with the handlebar & fork designed for more urban situation vs. being tuned for long-haul riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1616/Michael Ekstrand", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My advise, buy a suitable commuter bike and keep the mountain bike if you have room.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I was in the same situation living in NYC.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I found that conversion was not worth the effort and simply switched to a commuter bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Converting your mountain bike would help but still leave you with some of the drawbacks, such as a heavier frame and shock absorption, which drains your efficiency.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A commuter bike will surly get you out on the road more.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your local bike shop will help you find the perfect bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Things to keep in mind:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Frame size is keyCan", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you add a rack/", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "fenders?Do you want a single speed or multiple (i suggest multi-speed)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2630/J Gomez", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Funny you're in Seattle, I had the same experience when I was out there for a summer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just got \"slicks\" for tires and it was fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2359/kekekela", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you are commuting daily for a long distance, I'll switch to a road bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If not and you like your current bike, keep it!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I own a road bike and a mountain bike, depending where I'm heading.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I do not live in a large city.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2652/Gabriel Mongeon", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have always ridden mountain bikes, and even now that I commute daily since one year ago, most the time I go with my mountain bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For sure, if you ride in the city and not on off-road trails, chosing a thin lightly threaded tire is the best thing to do.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't like too thin a tire for 26 inch wheels, though, because the ride becomes very harsh with them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I now also have a fixie, it is SO MUCH faster and easier to go around, but it seems very obvious to me that a skinny-tire-much-lighter bike without fenders and racks and all should be much easier to ride anyway.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I recommend keeping a commuter bike for road use and a mountain bike for offroad use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can always ride a mountain bike on the road if you need to (albeit less efficiently than your commuter bike).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A nice, durable steel-framed hybrid is what I use for commuting, though that's really just a matter of prefence.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I bought a $350 mountain bike several years ago, and I learned the hard way why cable locks suck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're going to lock your bike up in a public place invest in a good u-lock or something better than a cable lock.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, replace quick-releases with bolt-ons as those same douchebags also like to steal wheels and seats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2596/krs1", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Start with your current bike, switching to smooth tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you find your current bike comfortable, stick with that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Only when you find yourself putting in real mileage (let's say 15 miles/day), then get a road bike (or a fixie if that's your bent) to improve the efficiency.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/174/Trey Jackson", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is nothing you need to do, but you'll probably find that the riding is more pleasant with road/commuter tires – ones with minimal tread.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may also find that a mirror makes life feel saner and safer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After that, you may find that the gearing for a mountain bike is lower than you'd like.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you do, you can change the cassette (rear gears) to get a higher range without too much cost (maybe US $20-40).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or, if you'd like to do some trail riding as well, you might do well to get a second set of wheels.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That would enable you to switch easily between knobby and slick tires and also have cassettes that are better suited to each style of riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19416/dlu", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I live in NYC (Bronx) and while there are a quite a few bike lanes and paths all there aren't many bike trails that warrant owning a mountain bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I see a lot of people by me who buy full suspension mountain bikes, but the majority of the time they ride in on the streets, which is such a waste of efficiency and money.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "yet again I see a lot of people who think they are Lance Armstrong and buy $2K+ road bikes and ride them like idiots.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would get a hybrid or a cyclocross which can handle some potholes and minor off road terrain while still keeping efficiency up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I personally ride a Kestrel RT-1000 flat bar, which is basically a road bike that kestrel uses a flat bar on.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This makes it fast, efficient, but with a more upright position that's nimble in stop and go traffic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37904/Joseph Park", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I just moved from where there wasn't much of a biking system infrastructure. There were lots of trails though, so I bought an OK mountain bike ($350). Now, I've moved to downtown Seattle and everyone bikes. I'd love to get into it but not sure if a mountain bike is efficient for road-use. Should I look into a conversion kit? Should I just get a road bike and have one off-road and one on-road?", "title": "Riding a Mountain Bike in the city", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><city>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6559", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2635/Chad Moran" }

[ [ "It is best not to use a mountain bike for road riding. The easiest option is to use the bike but change the tire for road tires. However, it is probably better to have a road bike for commuting and a mountain bike for off-road. If you can only afford one bike or only have room for one a hybrid or a cyclocross is a good option.", "Mountain bikes have the benefit of maneuverability , but the heavier tyres and frame can make it less efficient for road use, while the gearing may not be optimal for commuting. Changing to road tyres will add significant efficiency, but if you are cycling longer distances then switching to a commuter, hybrid or road bike may be the best option." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Mountain bikes have the benefit of maneuverability , but the heavier tyres and frame can make it less efficient for road use, while the gearing may not be optimal for commuting.", "The biggest single difference will come from changing to road tyres, but if you are cycling longer distances then switching to a commuter, hybrid or road bike may be the best option." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "You'll definitely need to remove all components.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For threaded bits you have two choices - leave junk bolts in there that will get powdercoated over and then carefully remove them (leaving a bit of an edge around the bolt hole) or let them get masked but almost certainly somewhat powdercoated into and use a tap and die set to chase them before reassembly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be prepared to face/ream/chase the headtube and bottom bracket in any case.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do make sure you've cleaned it as much as possible, removing any residual grease and road dirt.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I wouldn't worry about the stickers and decals, the media blasting to prepare the frame should take care of that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With the relatively low cost of media blasting I wouldn't bother trying to strip the paint myself.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Make sure you find a powdercoater that is familiar with bicycle frames; particularly when it comes to media blasting they need to understand how thin the tubing is.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/675/lantius", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have taken a bike to a powdercoater before.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Many of them actually do motorcycle frames regularly so they're very good with prepping the surfaces and screw holes and dealing with complex shapes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The hardest thing for me was the fork race -- I had to have it removed by a bikeshop.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people have success with a DIY approach, but it is safer to do it with the right tools and experience", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "(it is not a routine maintenance activity).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If there is residual grease or frame-saver compound in the tubes, the powder-coater should have solvents to remove this stuff.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Just ask them about your concerns.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1998/Angelo", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Everything must be removed from the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Powdercoaters will do the sandblast/strip for you generally.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Alu must be chemical dipped.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good powdercoaters will put plastic/rubber plugs in the screw holes so that they remain clean.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's always good practice to chase the threads when you get it back from the powdercoater.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3088/802bikeguy.com", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You indeed need to remove as many components as you can.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I took an old cruiser to a powder coater a few months ago and had a pretty nice result.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "From my experience they will sandblast the frame before so you do not need to worry about it being dirty or having stickers...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "it will all be taken care of with the sand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As mentioned in other posts the main issues are the threads and the bearing races.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The worse for both would be if they get sanded.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try to cover them as well as you can with duck tape or equivalent and make sure you clearly explain them not to touch those areas.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On my bike there was a bit of paint on the bearing races for both the fork and the bottom bracket (old type of cranks/bb).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I used a dremel with a metal spinning brush in order to nicely clean the races and reface them, and it seems to be working pretty well so far (make sure you grease them afterwards).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good luck with it!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2754/thomas122", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Make sure to clean out all grease and oils in the frame tubing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I just recently had my bike painted and while they hung the frame up to dry, heated grease caused a little defect in the frame on the top of the seat post insert.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2797/arete", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I am thinking of having an old bike powdercoated to spruce it up a bit. What do I need to do to prepare the frame? Remove all components? What about stickers and decals? Some kind of chemical etching dip? It is an aluminium MTB frame.", "title": "Is there anything special to pay attention to when preparing a bicycle for powdercoating?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><paintjob><aluminum>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6609", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1147/Treffynnon" }

[ [ "Before having a bike frame powdercoated, it is important to move all components. Cleaning the frame is also a good idea, but that will probably be done before the powdercoating is carried out. ", "This can be done yourself, but it is best to find a professional with the right equipment and experience with bikes. Remove all of the components and clean as much grease and dirt as possible. Stickers and paint do not normally need to be removed, since the powdercoater should be able to remove them. Protect the threaded bits with junk bolts or plugs, then chase the threads afterwards. Be prepared to face/ream/chase the headtube and bottom bracket." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Remove all of the components and clean as much grease and dirt as possible. Stickers and paint do not normally need to be removed, since the powdercoater should be able to remove them.", "Protect the threaded bits with junk bolts or plugs, then chase the threads afterwards. Be prepared to face/ream/chase the headtube and bottom bracket.", "Some people do this themselves, but it is best to find a professional powdercoater who is experienced with bikes." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "a) Is the headset tight?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Over time that can loosen up and it'll start to lean in one direction or the other (usually based on which side of the pothole you just hit).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "b) Are your wheels true?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "this probably won't make a major difference but it might combine with the previous point. c)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Is the weight on the bicycle evenly distributed?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "E.g., do you wear a messenger bag across your left shoulder so the weight of the load pulls the bike in that direction?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "d) Does this happen in a parking lot as well as on the road?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't forget that streets aren't flat - they curve off to the edges to allow water to shed from the roadway (and into nice deep puddles for motorists to drive through and splash cyclists).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If it only happens on the road (and you always ride on the right hand side of the road)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's probably because of Gra-vi-ty.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2362/lawndartcatcher", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "First check that the handlebar is actually square to the front wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Next check that the seat is straight relative to the top bar.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Stand in front of the bike, straddling the front wheel, and sight down the top tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Verify that there is no twist in the frame causing the front steering tube to not be in line with the seat tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Check the fork and frame for any other obvious out-of-alignment problems.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(Note that a frame can be straightened if it's slightly bent.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then check to be sure that neither of the crank arms is bent (a common problem with bikes that are frequently dropped on their sides).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also make sure neither of the pedal shafts is bent.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Since the headset bearings tend to be always around the same position while riding (because the headset does not spin, except for those performing barspins), and we rarely disassemble them, sometimes the spheres create depressions on the bearing tracks.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This creates a \"stable\" position when the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, but sometimes this self-centering is to another (non-straight) position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To check this problem, lift the bike from the top tube in normal riding position, and try to gently take the handlebar slightly away from this position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the bike tends to \"self align\", the most probable cause is this \"marked\" headset.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Fully disassemble and clean the bearings to perform a visual inspection is the only way to be 100% sure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To solve the problem, these sequential steps should be taken.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the former step didn't solve, go on to the next:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Loosen the headset just a little bit, letting it tightened just enough to prevent play when braking.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This solves the problem sometimes; Open it (no need to disassemble) just enough you can spin the spheres out of position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do this for the upper and lower bearing; Fully disassemble (including remove the cups from the frame), clean and remount in a different position; If neither of these solves, replace the headset for a new one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "EDIT", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ": take away the handlebar and perhaps the front brake, and perform some barspins, to reorient the spheres.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This could be the \"Step 1.5\" Hope it helps", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "How much lean are we talking about?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I jokingly said that you should ride around with a single pannier.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However I ride around like this all the time, and if there isn't much in the pannier (pump, some spare tubes, a couple of small tools), I can easily ride with no hands.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would check that your wheel is actually properly set in the hub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know on my bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's possible to do up the quick release without the wheel properly seated.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However the few times that I've done it, I noticed right away because the wheel rubs on the brakes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You should spin the wheels and ensure that the distance between the brake pads and the rims stays constant as it turns.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it doesn't you either got warped rims, or the wheel isn't mounted right.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Has the bike been in an accident recently?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your frame might be skewed as a result.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Happened to me, with the exact same symptom.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After careful checking it turned out the top tube was slightly bent in one place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This happened in the days of steel frames, though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "An aluminum or carbon frame is more likely to break than to bend.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/130/ttarchala", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "The bike I use to commute - a cheap, no brand city bike - is unbalanced, and naturally leans to the right. This is not noticeable normally, but it's enough to make riding without the hands on the bars requires quite some effort to avoid drifting right. Of course I can't just ask you what the cause is, but could you help me in finding it? What should I look for/test/check?", "title": "My bike leans to the right. What should I check?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<bike-setup>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6630", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2296/Agos" }

[ [ "A bike leaning to one side could be the result of a number of issues. The handlebar should be square to the front wheel, the seat should be straight relative to the top bar and there should be no twist in the tube. A check of the wheel should be performed to ensure it is straight in the hub and that the pedal shafts are not bent. Other factors, not related to the bike, could also be involved: carrying a messenger bag on one side or driving near the edge of the road where it curves.", "Possible causes on the bike include a loose or marked headset, bent forks, frame, crank arms or pedal shafts, or a crooked seat. The wheels may be improperly seated or slightly crooked, especially after an accident. This can also be caused by imbalanced weight on the bike or a tilted road surface." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Possible causes on the bike include a loose or marked headset, misaligned wheels, bent forks, frame, crank arms or pedal shafts, or a crooked seat.", "Check the wheel alignment — it may be improperly seated or slightly crooked, especially after an accident.", "Imbalanced weight on the bike or riding on a sloped road surface can have this effect. Does it happen only on roads, or in a car park too?" ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "While Machismo answers the question asked, the reason why there is that reaction is mainly a lack of understanding about how and why compact cranks exist.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously, you can look at it and say to give us better climbing (easy) gears.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But what many people miss is the rear ratio changes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The race standard for many years was 53/12.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That is, the hardest gear, made up of the largest tooth count in the front, and the smallest in the back, was a 53 tooth front chain ring paired with a 12 tooth rear cog.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A few years back, Shimano started making an 11 tooth rear cog.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It was originally intended for pro racers and time trialists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Somebody got out the calculator, and realized that with that 11 tooth rear cog now available, you could decrease the size of the front rings, and get the same gear ratio, or slightly faster .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That decreased front ring size allowed better climbing ratios when paired with the large cogs on the cassette, but also maintained the high gear speed racers are used to.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Someone riding a properly setup compact crank, actually is pushing a harder, faster gear than the 53/12 \"standard\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, if you pair a 53 with the 11 tooth, it will be faster yet, but not often do you find the legs to push that combo.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've included gear inch charts for both, so that you can see for yourself how it works out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are not aware, gear inches are a comparison to the effective diameter of a direct drive wheel, when gear advantage is accounted for.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 36 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Pedalling with compact cranks is supposed to be easier.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So people who take great pride in how strong they are and how fast they can go", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "don't like when you're able to do the same with (apparently) less effort.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can compare to being passed by electric bike while climbing, some people just feel the person on the e-bike doesn't \"deserve\" to be that fast and it hurts their ego.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's pretty much", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "a \"I'm manlier than you\" thing, like \"I use brute force to be fast, while you needed to have a mechanical advantage\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Add to that the fact humans don't like change and it's in our nature to frown upon new things trying to go against old \"standards\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The blog", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why not tri? has a nice little article about Compact vs Standard.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/417/dee-see", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Machismo.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Compacts came about to alleviate the high gearing of a standard crankset's gearing without inheriting the troubles that come with a triple.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Compacts are naturally geared lower than standards.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people (incorrectly) see lower gearing as a sign of weakness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some of those same people will serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which gearing you go with is purely a matter of overall strength and riding style.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Neither one is the wrong decision in the right situation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've done races before where in the description it has read \"compact gearing highly recommended.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\" That's a fair warning to heed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2598/joelmdev", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I think that compact (lower gears) supposedly would imply the person isn't strong enough to spin higher gears, or actually needs that low gears to be able to climb properly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In any case, I think most people doesn't even know there is a difference on crank chainring sizes, not to mention they could very well prefer one over another.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I for one ride internal gear hub,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I have one 46t and one 39t chainring.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I feel fit and wanting to speed up, I install the 46t.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I am more lazy, or more feel more tired for a longer period, I install back the 39t.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This scorn stuff, or \"weakness\" stuff, is all inside people's head, I would say.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have no experience with the egos of aspiring cyclists, but I can note a (small) technical difference", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A sprocket with a lower tooth count will require the chain to bend more sharply as it engages with the teeth.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The effect is complicated to describe, but it may be thought of qualitatively as the end of each successive link meshing onto the sprocket whipping around and causing an oscillation in the slack side of the chain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This effect dissipates the majority of drivetrain energy lost through the chain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The magnitude of the effect is nonlinear (roughly proportional to the square of angle of articulation)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so the difference is negligible at the chainring, but there is a non-negligible difference between 11T and 12T on the rear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's something like 0.4% higher theoretical drivetrain efficiency for the 12T.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26330/Bill", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yep, a combination of maschisimo and most importantly a sad case of \"It's not what the pros do\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Yes, you'll never see a pro racer on a compact, and rarely one on aluminum wheels at that, but somehow a lot of guys love to hate it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Despite the fact that as the gearing post about mentions, you're rarely even in gears that make a difference in all but an out and out sprint.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Funny thing though, show up to a group ride and someone may laugh at a compact, yet show up with cyclocross gearing (like a 46/38) and suddenly you're he-man?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2760/conipto", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Insecurity and attitude.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "As witnessed in answers to this question, the very presence of a compact crank leads to lectures about how pro racers can ever use regular crank and ranting about how regular crank users \"serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "\" This gets old pretty fast.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10595/ojs", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "At the cafe stop on my local Saturday ride a few of the guys we chatting and one guy asked an other if he was riding a compact drivetrain. The other guy objected loudly and they then joked with other members of the group suggesting they were riding compacts. Why would the notion of riding a compact drivetrain attract such a response?", "title": "Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<bike-culture><compact-crankset>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6727", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/129/Greg B" }

[ [ "The general consensus is that frowning on a compact drivetrain is due to machismo and, more generally, to people's dislike of change. Another reason to disapprove of it is that it is not used by professional cyclists. The idea of the compact drivetrain is to make pedalling easier. Both standard and compact drivetrains are fine and the choice depends on the individual cyclist.", "There are some technical differences between the two types and compact gears tend to be geared lower than standard ones. They are not normally used by professionals, and can have a reputation as an easy option for weaker riders. This can generally be dismissed as machismo and misunderstanding of the compact gear's role." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is mostly due to pride and misunderstanding of the role of compact gears, especially as they are not used by professionals.", "Compact gears alleviate the high gearing of a standard crankset without the need for a triple. There are small technical differences and the right choice depends on the use and personal preference." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Well, this probably sounds gross and I'm kind of reluctant to say it, but I'm able to blow the snot out of my nose without hitting myself or my bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I try to only do it when there's no one around, but occasionally that isn't possible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Basically, I turn my head so my nostrils are towards the ground and exhale forcibly through my nose.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not sure it will work for everyone--perhaps I have remarkably straight nasal passages?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2585/ananka", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There's no great way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The main problem is that inhaled cold air causes an automatic reaction in the nasal passages to create more mucous.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And to a degree simply having cold air blowing against the face around the sinuses", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "creates the problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people will experience this worse than others.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can try using some sort of scarf or maybe a surgical mask over your nose to sort of warm the air going in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The problem with this, of course, is that if your nose is running you can't wipe it without removing the scarf/mask.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or you can use various drugs (OTC decongestants and nasal sprays) to try to control it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yeesh!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why stop?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Spit down and to the side.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Keep going.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Main thing is to avoid spitting on the cyclist(s) behind you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I really don't know why this is a problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Common sense usually works well. 2 Common Sense Rules Don't spit or blow snot on the folks behind you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Such as a pace line or other commuters) Avoid spitting or blowing snot on public places such as sidewalks or bike paths, etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On to peeing, I guess...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Out in the country, find a tree and go behind it...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "in the city, find a bathroom at Starbucks or whatnot..", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Keep your mouth closed when you breathe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Holding the tongue against the roof of the mouth can make it easier to keep those passages warm and humid while you breathe through your nose.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Fisherman's friend or some other strong pepermint candy is a common remedy against such annoyances.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I like Fisherman's cause", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it lasts quite long in the mouth - takes me 10 minutes to \"eat\" it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2794/Rook", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Blow it away out of your nose while riding, to the side; Carry a cloth (handkerchief) to wipe your nose thereafter, so that it doesn't continue to be uncomfortable; If you come to a full stop, clean as much as you can with the two previous manoeuvers, so as to increase mucus-free time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I guess I'm on my own not wanting to see people, whether pedestrians or cyclists, flobbing out phlegm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Take one of @Idigas' Fisherman's friends and use old school cotton hankies.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Even one-handed should be fine in many places (possibly not whilst running a red).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Also not good is the sound of phlegm snorting.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have the same problem, which I solve by blowing to the side, and then wiping my nose on my shirt sleeve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "When my wife found out what I was doing, she crafted a velcro \"snot rag\" that wraps around my forearm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Works well and easier to launder.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2914/bluehole", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A lot of gloves designed for running or biking have a little bit of fabric on the index and thumb specifically for wiping snot off.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You may want to consider using one of these, such as this one .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Now that the weather's cold, my nose gets plugged up after about a mile and inevitably some runs down my throat and I have to pull over and spit. I feel like stopping all the time is probably confusing to the cars behind me and seek a better solution. What's the best (safest?) way to deal with this?", "title": "Runny nose while biking", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<winter>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6779", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2050/fbo" }

[ [ "Cold air when biking can cause mucus to build up, There is no great way to get rid of it but there are plenty tips for dealing with the issue. A scarf or mask may keep the nasal passages warmer and therefore reduce the accumulation. Over-the-counter medication may help. Blowing the snot out of your nose as you are riding, obviously trying to avoid it landing on yourself, your bike, other cyclist or pedestrians. Running gloves usually have a special piece of material on them to deal with this issue or you can make a wrist band to use for wiping your nose. FInally, Fishermens friends are recommended for keeping nasal passages clear. ", "This is a common problem that affects some more than others, and cannot be fully avoided. It can be caused by inhaling cold air, so you can close or cover your mouth when breathing, take decongestents or use Fisherman's Friend to help reduce this, or carry a cloth to wipe your nose. Cycling gloves often have some fabric designed for this purpose too. Some people blow snot down and to the side, but other road users can find this disgusting. Use caution to avoid hitting people or footpaths. " ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "There is no good way to avoid this, but it can be caused by inhaling cold air. You can close your mouth, take decongestents or use Fisherman's Friend to help reduce this, or carry a cloth to wipe your nose. Cycling gloves often have some fabric designed for this purpose too.", "Some cyclists blow 'snot rockets', but this can be annoying to other road users and should definitely be done in a way that avoids hitting them or landing on footpaths." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I figured out a way to do it which was actually fairly easy.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This only worked because it was in my garage, trying to steal someone's bike like this would be crazy...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I took a hammer, and pounded on the bar.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The first thing that happened was the plastic broke away.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I kept pounding on it, until the lock just fell apart.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It took about a minute...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Note to self, don't buy a cheap lock next time...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/998/PearsonArtPhoto", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Ideas:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you still have any of the original paperwork or packaging, look for a lock code/number, you might be able to order replacement keys.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Take it to a bike shop and ask.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They might have the right tools.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They likely do this every once in a while A machine shop is sure to have tools capable of doing this The local police department will have the tools or be able to refer you to somebody that does (they have to deal with removing abandoned bikes) An angle grinder, or other rotary cutting tool with a metal-cutting disk Hacksaw", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(electric preferably.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe an extra blade)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Big bolt cutters could you close the lock without the key?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cut away any rubber and slide a shim made from an aluminum can down to release the latch Is it a cheaply made lock?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Might be able to just beat on it with a hammer until the latching mechanism falls apart a small car jack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most u-locks lock on one side and connect with an L on the other,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so bending the U open will release it For the tool based approaches, I would be very tempted to work out some way with a vice or two to hold the lock and bike steady, to minimize the chances of damaging the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thieves also use leverage based attacks, but I believe those risk damaging the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "And, of course, having proper proof that the bicycle is yours is a good idea, too, since all those attempts to defeat a lock look suspicious.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A bit late now, but for the future it's worth knowing that it's possible to order a replacement key for most locks.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll need the serial number which is usually on the key or might be separately in the packaging", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(it's not written on the lock itself for obvious reasons), so you need to make a note of that somewhere and keep it in a safe place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "We all lock ourselves out of something at some point.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At times it can be useful to respect friends 'with links to the criminal fraternity': cheaper with fewer questions asked when it comes to getting cars opened, D-locks removed and house windows opened. @Daniel", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "R Hicks See this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hsM88Wx8QQ Picked with a biro in a matter of seconds, not even 'Kryptonite'.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some locks used to only come with half a dozen or so key variations so the security was assumed anyway.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With manufacturing outsourced to the Far East any brand, no matter how 'reputable' can have locks on sale that are not really that clever.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sounds like you actually had a 'fake D-lock'.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even the big makes foist these on the public, where the barrel is some bent tin inside a chunk of plastic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Those can be opened with a moderately sizeable piece of wood.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even if it was a real D-lock, have a look at how it would respond to the disc-cutter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XTYEcQAurs", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "What is that, 5 seconds?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This works with almost any type of lock:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cost $0.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(optional) lubricate the lock with all purpose oil or graphite powder.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the lighter the oil the better.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "get a similar key that goes in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "just find a friend with a ulock that still has the spare key.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "get the spare key and file down the tallest teeth so that the key is a series of the lowest teeth insert key and keep applying pressure as if you were going to turn it to open the lock, and releasing the pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "keep doing this over and over during next step. get a small hammer and gently knock the key.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "as if nailing it INTO the lock.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "several times.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "keep doing it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "does not loose your temper and apply force.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "gently.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "eventually, the key will turn!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the Technic is called Bump Key .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bonus information: lock-picking is a nerd past time with several tournaments in the hacking community.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want to learn more look for the MIT guide to lock-picking .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Yes, that MIT.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1635/gcb", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Some time ago, I stuck a U-lock on my bicycle for safe keeping, on the top tube below the seat. It's annoying when riding, and I'd like a way to remove it. I've lost the key some time ago, or I would have removed it that way. Preserving the lock is optional. What would you suggest?", "title": "U-lock stuck on a bike", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<lock>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6842", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/998/PearsonArtPhoto" }

[ [ "When a U-lock is attached to a bike and they key is lost, there are basically two options. The first is order a spare key or take it to a local bike shop. The second it to deal with the issue using tools, either yourself or with the help of a specialist or the police. If using the tools yourself, it is important to be careful not to damage the bike. Obviously, for the tool-based approach, proof that the bike was actually yours would be needed.", "If you have the original paperwork, you may be able to order a replacement key, or get help at a local bike shop. Some lock types only come with a few variations, so a similar key may be able to be filed down to fit. Destructive options include hammering, levering or cutting with a hacksaw, angle grinder or bolt cutters. It can be good to carry proof of ownership though, to avoid looking suspicious." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "If you have the original paperwork, you may be able to order a replacement key or ask at a local bike shop. Some lock types only come with a few variations. A similar key may be able to be filed down to fit.", "Hammering, levering or cutting with a hacksaw, angle grinder or bolt cutters are three effective ways to destroy locks. It can be good to carry proof of ownership though, since otherwise it looks suspicious." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "If you're at home, use a floor pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They are very easy to use and have a gauge so you can measure the pressure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you're on the road, the quickest and easiest way to get you back on the road is to use CO2 cannisters.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They are not that cheap though and the CO2 will leak out of the tube faster than air (mostly N2), requiring topping up over the next few days.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "More information is available on Wikipedia", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1588/Mac", "score": 16 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you're at home, I recommend an air compressor , there's no easier or quicker way than this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually these have pressure gauges, and you can even (with some accessories you can) control the max.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "pressure, just press and", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it stops when done.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If on the road, the easiest way (and also the quickest) is: If near a gas station, use their air compressor (if available)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise, use a portable air solution (the quickest is the CO2, but mind the cost of the refills), there are really nice hand pumps also,not the quickest, but easy IMO.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally, and knowing that in my case I just need to inflate every three weeks, I would recommend getting newer inner tubes, maybe the ones you're using are loosing air quicker than normal?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I mean, inflating every week could be too much, although I understand if you really want them to be tip-top :)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1280/jackJoe", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Answer:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Mini-Pump in combination with a Track Pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Read on for my experiences of 'Cyclaire' pumps...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I purchased a 'Cyclaire' portable pump as I genuinely believed it would be the answer to all of my puncture/tyre care problems.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It came with a neat bag that I could use to carry it on the bike and worked perfectly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, on a day to day basis I carried a mini-pump and over time I forgot to dust off the 'Cyclaire' pump, to eventually never even think about taking it out for longer rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I was on tour with a group", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then I might just dig it out as it does have a gauge and high pressures can be achieved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This could be useful to maintain tyre pressures 2+ weeks in to an 'expedition'.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As it is, I recommend a small plastic mini-pump for the road and a track pump for back home.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trick with the minipump is to get one where there are no extra gadget features, e.g. gauge, 2-way motion, telescopic barrel or any of that nonsense.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "These features can make the pump liable to rattle apart, rendering it useless when you need it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The simpler (but not necessarily cheaper) pump just keeps on giving.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The portable pump only has to get you home, you can ride on 20 p.s.i.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if that is all the minipump can give, back home", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you can then get the rest of it in effortlessly with a gauge to keep it correctly inflated.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the 'Cycleaire' strays from 'keep it simple', as does the CO2 cannister.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A workshop compressor is nice, but, unless you work in a bike shop and need one on the whole time, then you have to faff with it and wait for its cylinder to charge.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For that reason, stick with the track pump (with gauge) and plain-as-possible mini-pump for on the road.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you really want a 'Cyclaire' pump then find a suitable scenario - either the long tour or, if you commute, inside your desk drawer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Definitely a floor pump (with built-in gauge) for regular at-home inflations.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Fast, accurate, easy, can handle any pressure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've never tried the CO2 inflaters", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I assume they work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most mini-pumps suck -- too little volume for fat tires and too little pressure for skinny tires --", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "so for on the road I'd recommend a full-sized frame pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Another Option would be to use the air pumps for the cars by your local gas station.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I really like this option, because the pumps there have enough pressure for most mountain- and citybike tires.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a Schrader valve, the air pumps will connect directly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a Presta valve, you can use a converter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It weighs like one gram and will fit anywhere.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Eg, duct tape one to your seat rail.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, at least in the city where I live, there are gas stations all around.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be careful thought, these pumps fill up a bike tire pretty fast!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So if your pass a gas station on your commute, this could be even the fastest option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1494/Paul Weber", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "While the question is directly about easiest/fastest way to pump up a tire, it is worth noting that all the above methods work.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It really comes down to fastest.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try benchmarking against a flat car tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is a high volume, low pressure problem, which while different from a bike tires (low volume, higher pressure) is a good benchmark of speed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is actually an interesting challenge to pump a totally flat car tire up with a small frame pump, a floor pump, or a CO2 cart.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Alas, a compressor takes all the fun out of it,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I find that I need to pump up my tyres at least weekly and am looking for how to make this quick and easy. So what is the easiest and quickest method of pumping up a bike tyre? As an example, I found this device recently. (forwarded to the best part)", "title": "What is the easiest and quickest way to pump up a tyre?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire><innertube><pump>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6891", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1547/Valamas" }

[ [ "The easiest way to pump up a flat tire depends where you are. If you are at home, a floor pump seems to be the best answer. If you are on the road, there are a few options. You can use the compressed air at the nearest gas station, otherwise, use a portable air solution (the quickest is the CO2, but mind the cost of the refills), there are really nice hand pumps also,not the quickest, but easy to use. An additional recommendation is a Mini-Pump in combination with a Track Pump. Some cyclists think the Mini-Pump is not useful because it is small and low-pressure.", "Practical options include floor pumps and air compressors for home use, and mini pumps, frame pumps, CO2 cannisters and gas station compressors for the road. Air compressors at home can take time to charge, while mini pumps can be awkward, especially when they have extra features. CO2 pump refills can be expensive, but they are quicker. Frequent need for inflation could indicate a slow puncture." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Practical options include floor pumps and air compressors for home use, and mini pumps, frame pumps, CO2 cannisters and gas station compressors for the road. Air compressors at home can take time to charge, while mini pumps can be awkward, especially when they have extra features. CO2 pump refills can be expensive, but they are quicker.", "If you have to inflate your tyres often, maybe you have a slow puncture and should replace the tubes." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The coating is generally a form of wax, which is an excellent chain lube, and less apt to attract dirt than most chain oils.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "All you really should do is wipe off (with a dry cloth) any excess.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the wax seems excessively heavy you can add a little solvent to the cloth, to just wipe off the outer coating.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You want to leave the lube on the inside of the chain, where it's really needed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 29 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Sheldon Brown says no (http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html): This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't do this!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3380/Carson Reinke", "score": 27 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It depends on the brand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most brands used to use a heavy packing grease that was very tacky and an absolute dirt magnet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's more of a preservative for the metal than a lubricant.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some manufacturers have moved away from that type of grease to a lighter lube that you can use out of the package (Shimano moved to this lighter lubricant if I remember correctly, SRAM has not).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Regardless of brand, if the new chain feels overly tacky you can use your favorite lube and over-apply it to the chain then give it a thorough wipe down to remove the excess.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your lighter lubricant will combine with the heavier lubricant and help remove it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can also use a non-water based solvent on a rag to achieve the same result, just be sure you re-lube the chain afterwards.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2598/joelmdev", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I always find it more worthy to ride the new chain as is, and clean it when needed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Since if you'll need to clean it anyway, at least take advantage it is already lubed, although with a less-than-ideal lube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use KMC chains, by the way, and they are in the sticky end of the spectrum, but I didn't perceived any dust-attracting property, at least not more than any other lubed chain, wiped to remove excess or not", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I never remove the excess, but try to put just the \"right\" amount of oil, not an easy goal although...).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I would recommend leaving the manufacturers grease in place", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "but I know it's seems a bit over done on some chains.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it seems like it'll attract too much dirt", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you could take a degreaser like Clean Streak and spray some on a rag and then make one quick pass around the left and right sides of the chain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Avoid getting the degreaser in contact with the rollers along the top and bottom.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2370/James Moore", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I just got a new Shimano CN HG-53", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and it was covered in a honey-like lubrication.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I wiped all that stuff of and used my own lubrication on the chain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Worst part of the factory-applied lube was, that it was all over the place just waiting to collect all kind of dirts on my first ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2880/Christian Stade-Schuldt", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have learned the hard way that chain suck can also be caused by sticky factory lube on a new chain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I followed Sheldon Browns advice to NOT remove the factory lube from a new SRAM chain, something I have always done in the past (and will in the future).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This caused terrible chain suck to the extent I had no confidence in the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I degreased and lubed the chain with my normal go to lube", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Muc Off dry), problem solved!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32794/Gary Fischer", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Personal advice, don't clean it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Let it collect dirt first.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Eventually there will come a time that you'll clean it depending on your use.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then you degrease and apply your preferred lube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Saves you time and money.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13451/deepsweech", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The wax on KMC chains can sometimes be so thick (perhaps been on shelf for a long time?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that it causes sounds and sucking even on brand new bikes that are perfecty set up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In these cases, degreasing and then relubing by soaking will IME solve the problem and improve performance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Just saying I had a new SRAM chain installed by a local owner of a bike shop who said the factory lube is better than anything you can apply and relube in 300 miles (482 km or three weeks).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39489/80's Cannondale original owner", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "My new chain is totally coated in lube. I would never ride a bike with a chain like this normally. All that goop is just going to collect flotsam from the road and wear out the chain. Should I clean this coating off the new chain too?", "title": "New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<chain>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7038", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious" }

[ [ "Most people, including Sheldon Brown, are in agreement that the lube on a new bike chain should not be removed before use, The excess can be wiped off it is too sticky. The grease is far suoerior to anything to be found on the market so there is nopoint to remove it and lube with a different, inferior product.", "Most comments and online advice suggest that the thick factory lube is better than commercial lubes, but others say that it is tacky and attracts dirt. The excess can be removed from the outside while leaving the lube in the internal parts where they are needed, or a degreaser can be used to remove the factory lube before applying the preferred product." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Some manufacturers add a heavy lube or wax in the factory that is superior to commercially available lube. Others have switched to a lighter lube. Some users say that the factory lube should be left after removing the external excess, others complain that it attracts dirt and should be removed before relubing.", "If you choose to keep the factory lube, use a cloth with a little solvent to remove the excess from the outside. Otherwise use your normal lube and thoroughly wipe off excess." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "With any bike the most important thing is \"fit\" -- is the bike too tall, too short, too much \"reach\", too little?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For a bike to have a good basic fit you should be able to stand over it flat-footed and have \"comfortable\" clearance at the crotch.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For bikes with lower than normal top bars (eg, many mountain bikes), you should pick a bike that would be comfortable even with the top bar at the \"normal\" height.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And for \"real\" off-roading you want more actual crotch clearance than for more normal riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But too much crotch clearance is a signal that the bike may be too small for you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The bike should also be tall enough that you can raise the seat high enough to have your legs nearly completely extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When riding, the \"reach\" should be comfortable for your style of riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For casual riding you want a shorter reach and more upright posture than for racing or aggressive off-roading.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, for really tall, long-torso people a \"casual\" reach can be too short for even casual riding, forcing the rider to curl his torso too much, and short people, on the other hand, may have to use a bike that's a hair smaller than ideal to get the most comfortable reach.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When you ride it is it stable (but is it also responsive -- there's a trade-off).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "And obviously you want a bike that suits your needs -- multispeed or not?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"Road\" vs \"mountain\"? Upright or \"aero\"?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Can carry a load with a rack, or is stripped-down for lightness and speed?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Checking the bike over:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Everything should be parallel (except, perhaps, the chain on a derailleur bike).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Stand straddling the front wheel looking toward the back of the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With the front wheel centered you should be able to look down and see the tire \"disappear\" under the frame tubes, with it not peeking out more on one side vs the other (which would indicate a warped frame).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Similarly, the front and rear wheels should be exactly in line, not one more to one side than the other.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Look at the derailer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When the arm of the derailer is moved it should stay parallel to the wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Look at the chainrings.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When the crank is turned, the chainrings shouldn't wobble.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Standing over the top bar, grip the rear brakes and move the bike forward and back.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There will be some \"spring\" in rim brakes, but there should be no \"rattle\" sensation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Do the same with the front, only also feel for any looseness in the headset bearings.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There should be no detectable looseness in the headset.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Off the bike (and preferably with the bike upside down or suspended in a stand)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "shake the wheels, feeling for any looseness in the wheel bearings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Likewise shake the crank.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And, obviously, check for serious rust, things that are seriously dinged, scratched, etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "A few scratches on a well-used steel frame is not a reason to reject the bike, though (unless you're looking for a \"perfect\" specimen).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One important thing is to give the bike a test ride, and feel it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can tell a lot that way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Check the frame over well, look for dents, scratches in the paint (and rust, if the frame is steel) make sure the wheels are sound.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The components, everything.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just give it a good look all over.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anything broken should be fairly obvious.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Also ask a lot of questions", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2947/Powder-Monkey", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Only one thing to add to the other answers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be aware of a frame with a brand new coat of paint.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "From experience I have found that this is done to cover defects in the frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In my case the down tube had a slight crack in it that the new paint covered over and after a quick test ride it", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the crack was still not visible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A couple of months later we found that the crack had opened up and the tube had to be replaced.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Lift the bike so one wheel is off the ground and spin the wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Look at the rim where it meets the brakes, and see how much it wobbles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ideally, the wheel should be perfectly round, but this is pretty rare on used bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Deviation of 2 mm or less is pretty good; 5 mm means it should get fixed; 15 mm means it's beyond fixing, and the wheels are garbage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(This assumes the bike has rim brakes; with disk brakes, the tolerances are a little more generous.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Check for loose spokes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Grab a spoke between two fingers and gently shake it - if it's installed properly, it shouldn't move at all, if it feels like it's not firmly attached, then you have a problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Check the tires.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Worn-down tread is not necessarily a problem (unlike car tires), but watch out for cracked, brittle-looking rubber.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1338/Mike Baranczak", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One thing I did not see already mentioned, you can ask the seller to let you have a local bike shop look it over.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2953/Glenn Gervais", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I've been looking at used bikes but I'm worried that I will get taken advantage of because I don't know a lot about bikes. Are there key questions or things I should look for when shopping for a used bike?", "title": "What can I do to be sure I'm getting a fair deal when buying a used bike?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<used-bike>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7089", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2948/Meghann Davies" }

[ [ "With any bike the most important thing is \"fit\" -- is the bike too tall, too short, too much \"reach\", too little? The next thing to decide is type of bike: road or mountain. It is important to take the bike out on a test ride to ensure it is stable and responsive. A bike check should be carried out to ensure everything is in its proper alignment. Obviously, with a used bike, it is important to ask lots of questions about its history and check nothing is broken. ", "Ensure that the bike has the correct fit for the rider and the riding style. Check for correct crotch clearance and reach, and test ride the bike to make sure it is comfortable. Check the responsiveness and stability, and consider the intended use and riding surface. Think about gears and carrying capacity. Check for proper alignment of the frame, wheels, brakes and other parts. Check for looseness, wobbling or rattling, especially in the headset, cranks and wheels. Check for rust, dents and scratches, but don't worry about slight problems. Ask plenty of questions." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Ensure that the bike has the correct fit for the rider and the riding style. Check for correct crotch clearance and reach, and test ride the bike to make sure it is comfortable.", "Check the responsiveness and stability, and consider the intended use and riding surface. Think about gears and carrying capacity.", "Check for proper alignment of the frame, wheels, brakes and other parts. Check for looseness, wobbling or rattling, especially in the headset, cranks and wheels. Check for rust, dents and scratches, but don't worry about slight problems. Ask plenty of questions." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Drop bars in of themselves are fine for winter riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, there are some peripheral issues involved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your average flat bars will offer a bit more control in slippery conditions because flat bars are much, much wider than drop bars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A bike equipped with drop bars may not be the best bike for winter riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But properly configured and sized drops can be excellent for winter riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Handlebar Width:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Drop bars tend to be narrower than flat bars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can mitigate this by getting wider drop bars; the ones meant for touring are great for winter riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Keep in mind that handlebar sizing isn't an exact science, but you generally want them to be as wide as your shoulders.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A lot of road bikes won't have anything approaching this kind of width.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Also, there aren't that many wide, stocky roadies.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tires:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Road bikes--which is where you usually see drop bars--often won't allow for the fitting of appropriate tires for riding on snow and ice.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Not the fault of the drop bars!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'll say it as bluntly as possible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The style of handlebars on a bicycle has absolutely no bearing on its suitability for winter conditions.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1442/Stephen Touset", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Personal experience here, but I do not see any reason why drop handlebars wouldn't be suitable for winter riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have ridden extensively the past two winters with drop handlebars in ice and snow", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(Madison, WI).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I personally find that in rougher and slippery conditions, I prefer riding with my hands in the drop position.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It tends to give me better control while both giving me better access to the brakes and lowering my center of gravity a bit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Despite snow and ice not traditionally considered commuting conditions, many choose to continue biking through the winter months.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are some good resources online with the best compilation I've seen being Chicago Bike Winter site. .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One caveat I will make is that bikes that traditionally have drop handlebars aren't viewed as being optimal winter bikes due to typically having thinner road-style tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps that is what the experienced cyclist was referring to.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2982/thewopr", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Besides considering leverage as the only advantage of bicycling in icy and snowy temperatures, I would also consider the aspect of familiarity.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My first few rides in icy/snowy conditions were quite nerve-wracking: constantly sliding right off the shoulder into the chocolate mousse or the ditch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I soon learned to avoid the treachery of the road shoulder and ride in the plowed area with the most asphalt exposed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One of the things that I felt good about was that I knew my bicycle well, and I wasn't making flustered or nervous mistakes with hand placement.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, I would recommend focusing on keeping your hands and feet warm during the ride so that you are not impacting your ability to react or distracted by your extremeties.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it takes ziplock pogies and hand-warmers, or full-on BarMitts and Lake MXZs for your feet, being relaxed and perceptive to your conditions will make your ride safer than changing your ergonomics at the last minute.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "And if you do ride in icy conditions and don't have studded tires, I would recommend those, too.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1944/memnoch_proxy", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Seasoned winter cyclist here :-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Drops and flats both work fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One consideration with flats is that you are more upright, and so less vulnerable to the classic \"front wheel suddenly sliding off to one side\" in the ice/snow.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3005/Fergie", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I've been told by somewhat knowledgable people that drop bars aren't suitable for winter cycling in snow and ice. Is there any validity to this? If so, why, and which style of handle bar would be preferable?", "title": "Are drop bars suitable for winter commuting?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<winter><handlebars>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7174", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/607/user229044" }

[ [ "Both flat and drop handlebars are fine for winter riding. However, there may be a few things to take into consideration. Drop handle bar bikes are not usually built for taking winter tires. Flat hanndlebars ma also offer a bit more control.", "Drop handlebars are not necessarily unsuitable for winter riding, but they do tend to be much narrower than flat bars and are normally used with road bikes that can be less stable in winter conditions. Winter tyres are recommended as well as ensuring a comfortable riding style that allows you to respond to situations without changing position. The less upright stance can also make it easier for the front wheel to slip to the side." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Drop handlebars are not necessarily unsuitable for winter riding, but they do tend to be much narrower than flat bars and are normally used with road bikes that can be less stable in winter conditions.", "Some riders prefer this style, but winter tyres are recommended as well as ensuring a comfortable riding style that allows you to respond to situations without changing position. The less upright stance can also make it easier for the front wheel to slip to the side." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Things like this are out there.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Look at the suppliers of mountaineering clothing as well as cycle manufacturers for innovative use of contrasting fabrics for ventilation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have an older model of this jacket: http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-wind-shield-pullover?p=24991-0-425", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It treats me pretty well--wind-proof front, but with fleecy breathable arms and back.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I believe that, in Canada, MEC carries Patagonia clothing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/710/DC_CARR", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Rivendell sells the MUSA Windshield , which covers the front of your torso.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This could be worn over a fleece base jacket.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2869/con5013d", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In Europe, it is sold by Decathlon .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can order it here (I don't know if they deliver in Canada).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/444/GvS", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I am using an Endura Windchill .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even though it does not fit your initial description, I have found it excellent for autumn/early winter use.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It has soft shell fabric in front, on top of arms and shoulders and even more breathable fabric in the back and under the arms.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have worn it with a microfiber liner shirt and a thin merino middle layer at approximately 0 degrees Celsius with good results.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In slightly colder weather (around -5C)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I replace the base layer with another merino shirt.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I expect to wear it for most of the winter with merino+fleece layers underneath.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Water resistance is excellent, it does not get soaked through even after several hours of moderate rain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At the same time it breathes very well as it does not have a hard shell layer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3053/espu", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "ski gear.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "water prof, light weight, bright colors, and WARM.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "my BURTON jacket even has a pocket made for an i-pod, and loops for headphone wires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "now how cool is that?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4155/michael", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When I used to row I had the exact opposite top layer - a sleeveless gilet with a fleece front and a shell back (highlighting where water typically splashed up at you).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The gilet was long enough in the back to be able to be sat on while rocked over.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Given the hunched nature of the riding position when battling into a headwind in the rain, I've often worn this as the top layer on those inclement days.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I love Ibex stuff.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a vest similar to this - http://shop.ibex.com/Outlet/Mens/Momentum-Jacket", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I own numerous ibex items and I would highly recommend them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wool on the back and the front is wind/rain resistant.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In bright orange, it is highly visible and the $135 price tag for ibex is a steal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1068/john busteed", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Looking for a good fall/winter/spring coat. In my imagination it is: a hard raincoat type shell on the front of the jacket to block wind and fleece on the back to make it extremely breathable. Looking to use it in Ottawa, Ontario in temperatures between +5C to -10C (although that is flexible, I wouldn't mind having to layer or figure out something cooler for warmer weather). Bonus: It should also have some kind of reflective material. Does this coat exist? Where can I find it?", "title": "Looking for coat: shell front, fleece back", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<winter><jacket>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7245", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude" }

[ [ "Coats with a shell front and fleece back do exist. It is worth looking at the suppliers of mountaineering clothing and skiing gear as well as cycle manufacturers for innovative use of contrasting fabrics for ventilation. Endura Windchill and Burton manufacture such items and stores like MEC in Canada and Decathlon in Europe carry them.", "This kind of clothing is available, often using contrasting fabrics in different places that may need more weather protection, insulation and ventilation depending on the activity, and offering pockets for electronics and other gear. Mountaineering and ski clothing can be useful. Recommended brands include Patagonia, the MUSA Windshield by Rivendell, Decathlon, the Endura Windchill, Burton and Ibex." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This kind of clothing is available, often using contrasting fabrics in different places that may need more weather protection, insulation and ventilation depending on the activity, and offering pockets for electronics and other gear. Mountaineering and ski clothing can be useful.", "Recommended brands include Patagonia, the MUSA Windshield by Rivendell, Decathlon, the Endura Windchill, Burton and Ibex." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Sidi make a wide fitting version of their shoes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a pair of Sidi's and they have been the best fitting, most comfortable shoes I've ever found.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "From their website : Mega sizes are cut with more material throughout, and a larger-volume heelcup.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Mega sizes roughly correspond to a EE/EEE width on the Brannock sizing scale.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Possibly still not wide enough for your needs", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but they're worth checking out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1588/Mac", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes, D2 Shoes will make you a custom extra-wide shoe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Good info on the D2 Shoes website.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "41 sizes, 9 widths available.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "$975 price tag is tough, but looks like D2 Shoes will manufacture you an extra wide road or mountain shoe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The widest off the shelf bicycle shoe I could find is the Shimano SH-M087GE Mountain Bike Shoes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The GE version is a wide version of the regular SH-M087G.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2953/Glenn Gervais", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have 4E feet and the only shoes that I have found that fit are Lake", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8186/user8186", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Once met a guy who had had his shattered foot \"reconstructed\" with screws, etc, and it was about half-again as wide as his other foot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He was riding in custom-reconstructed cycling shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He told me that the cobbler took two regular bike shoes, cut them apart, and sewed them back together as one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As I recall (it's been maybe eight years), the shoes had cleats, probably SPDs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Of course, I have no idea who did the work for him, but probably an outfit that does \"orthopedic\" shoes.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I found a cheap pair of shoes from Specialized that are awesome for wide feet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The Tahoe From Specialized .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Note: this isn't a 'competitive' shoe; it's classified as recreational.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I ride a hybrid for fitness, and I wear 10.5 US 4E New Balances when I buy athletic shoes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I paid $85 from a retailer", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I think you can get them cheaper.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The shoe works because of the construction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They're built like Keen or Merrell sandals, meaning they wrap around your foot in a basket-like construction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's not a sandal though, in that the sides of the shoe have strips of leather and nylon that flex around the toe", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "box.(don't know if I'm using the right terms)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Again, I'm a fitness rider, and I need a versatile shoe for commutes and long rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And I've been wearing them on long rides for two weeks without any pain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These have a pop-out section on the forefoot to accomodate a clip if you want to install one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4710/Nicko", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You may also want to check out custom=made shoes from BONT .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They aren't cheap though!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/832/Darren Cope", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's also possible, if you have the tools and the inclination, to make your own from a pair of non-cycling shoes that already fit correctly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ideally these should have a flattish outsole (so they don't catch on the pedals) which is also thick enough to recess the cleats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll still ideally want the stiff insole from a cycling shoe (as here ) to spread the pressure from the plate the cleats bolt onto.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, you need a donor cycling shoe whose sole isn't too narrow, but at least it doesn't need to fit around your feet for this to work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3311/Useless", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I have mutant-wide feet and it's generally impossible to find comfortable shoes for any occasion. For the most part my only options in life are New Balance. I'm cycling a lot lately and would like to take advantage of cleats. So, does anybody actually manufacture 4E shoes? I'd rather not try stretching them out with mink oil/boiling water/wooden shoe stretchers and the pain from narrow shoes can be pretty excruciating. My google-fu is coming up with a few dozen forum discussions with no real solutions.", "title": "Does anybody manufacture extra-wide (3E/4E or EEE/EEEE ) wide road or mountain biking shoes?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shoes><clipless><spd>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7246", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3017/mhalligan" }

[ [ "Extra wide mountain bike shoes are made by Sidi, D2 Shoes, Shimano, Lake, Specialized and BONT.", "SIDI, Shimano, Lake and Specialized have wide-fitting versions of their cycling shoes, while D2 and Bont offer custom versions. This may be an expensive option though. Wide non-cycling shoes may be easier to find, and may be adapted or used with flat pedals." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "SIDI, Shimano, Lake and Specialized have wide-fitting versions of their cycling shoes, while D2 and Bont offer custom versions. This may be an expensive option though. Using wide athletic shoes (e.g. New Balance) may be easier.", "Wide non-cycling shoes may be easier to find, and may be adapted or used without cleats." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "If you are asking how to calculate the maximum capacity of the chainrings and cogs, based on looking at the derailleur, then it's not going to be as easy as just looking at them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Finding a derailleur to fit your chainrings/cogs based on just the chainrings/cogs is going to be a lot easier than finding chainrings based on looking at your derailleur.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "HOWEVER, there are some standards for manufacturer, I have listed them below.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have also included the formula to find out your capacities, since I misread your question initially and decided to answer the part you weren't concerned with.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am not deleting it because, well, it took a while to type.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "According to United Bicycle Institute: Determine Maximum Chainring Difference by subracting the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring Determine Maximum Cassette Cog Difference by subtracting the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog Determine Total Drivetrain Capacity by adding Maximum Chainring Difference to the Maximum Cassette Cog Difference Record", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the Maximum Cassette Cog", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog) For Shimano: SS - Short Cage Road Double - Maximum Cassette Cog is 27 and Total Capacity is 29 GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/27(Road) and Total Capacity is 33(MTB)/37(Road)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "SGS - Long MTB - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is 45 For SRAM: Short - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/28(Road) and Total Capacity is 32(MTB)/31(Road)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Medium - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is 37 Long - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is 45 For Campagnolo: Short - Maximum Cassette Cog is 26 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "27 Medium - Maximum Cassette Cog is 29 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is 36 Long - Maximum Cassette Cog is 29 and Total Capacity", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is 39 NOTE -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "THIS INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE BY MANUFACTURER And", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "a great source for all of this is Sutherland's 7th edition http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/7th_Edition.html Hope that helps", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2946/mister_ed", "score": 35 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You should be able to estimate the tooth capacity of a rear derailer by installing it on a bike, threading a chain through (and over a cluster), anchoring one end of the chain so it can't move, and pulling on the other end.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You'd first pull just enough to achieve \"minimum\" tension, then pull until the derailer was stretched close to tight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Count the chain links that are pulled past a fixed spot", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(ie, don't just count how many links roll off the jockey wheel) as you pull between these two positions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'd probably want to try this 2-3 times on different cogs of the cluster.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Definitely takes a bit of judgment, but should come within 1-2 teeth of the \"right\" answer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Some nice detail in the big answer there.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However I should add that on my fancy road bike, I'm running a Shimano Ultegra 6700 SS (i.e. short cage)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Derailleur on a 10 speed cassette that is 12-30.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I have a compact 50-34 at the front.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not that I do, but crossing the chain isn't a problem either, except for rubbing on the front derailleur.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So I don't understand the limits that Shimano give, except for - either covering their asses if somethign does go wrong- or more likely, wanting to sell more kit on the back of incompatibility.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23525/Simon Rushton", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm building a new touring bike and finding the capacity specs far below what I've used on the old one I put together.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The crank is 44-20 and the cassette is 36-11, which is a 49 capacity.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It works perfectly with old friction shifters, and an extra long derailleur screw.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and yes, this low gearing really has been useful/necessary with a loaded bike in the mountains.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24885/sastrugi", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have found that the length of the derailleur from the bolt centre (rear axle) to the first jockey-pulley's outer edge (when the derailleur is in its lowest gear), must be greater than the radius of the largest rear cog (with the chain on it), i.e. an RD M592 9-speed will work on a 40 tooth maximum cog but not on a 46 tooth maximum cog.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Thank you", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43393/Dunstan Dunstan", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The manufacturer's specs are total BS.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The max cog sizes and capacties can he extended ALOT!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Flipping the B tension screw over can get a Shimano Short Cage RD up to 36t max cog size (vs 27t spec) and", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "39t is the real capacity (vs. 29t spec).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The Specs are leaning WAY TOO PARANOID on the safe side.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The manufacturers are TERRIFIED of lawsuits.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So in essence you are lost and at the mercy of blogs and youtube videos to find THE REAL SPECS.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Lacing up a chain so the chain doesn't drag or drags just a tiny bit in small/small combo, then flipping the B tension screw so the head of the screw leans against the derailer hanger stop and max extending it, and then experimenting with the max tooth count cassette cog that'll fit w/o the upper jockey pulley grinding the largest cassette in small/big and the chain not jamming in big/big shift will determine your true RD max cog size and total tooth capacity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's that simple.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36068/Michael Greene", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "It's easy to calculate what capacity of a rear derailleur will be needed based on the size of the big and small chainring and the big and small cog. What about the converse question, how to calculate the capacity of a derailleur? I was comparing some short-cage rear derailleurs I have lying around, and I noticed that the cage length and pulley sizes varied enough that they probably had different capacities. Related question: is there a fairly comprehensive place to look these up?", "title": "How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<derailleur><math>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious" }

[ [ "There are a number of explanations on how to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur based on the cogs and chainrings. However, they are extremely complicated and difficult to follow and a better solution may be to find a youTube video or a blog for a clearer picture.", "It is easier to find a derailleur to match your chainrings/cogs rather than the other way around. You can estimate the capacity by comparing the radius of the largest cog to the length of the extended derailleur and by installing it on the bike and experimenting with the high and low gears that can be used without grinding or jamming. The official specifications are more cautious than the true capacity, so some users find that these can be exceeded significantly." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is easier to find a derailleur to match your chainrings/cogs rather than the other way around. You can estimate the capacity by comparing the radius of the largest cog to the length of the extended derailleur and by installing it on the bike and experimenting with the high and low gears that can be used without grinding or jamming.", "The official specifications are more cautious than the true capacity, so some users find that these can be exceeded significantly." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "No Roadster lugs are available for the independent or small shop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That is why I had to make them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Roadster lugs are made [India, China, Taiwan and of course in the Netherlands], it is just that distributors like Nova and Ceeway do not buy them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I find it amusing about the comment about TIG welding lugs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why lug anything really...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it is just for looks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Stamped lugs are welded together :) Only the expensive racing lugs are cast.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I think you best bet is to try and find them in India or Taiwan and ask for a sample.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3267/Mike Flanigan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Try this link", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If by \"roadster geometry\" you mean a slack (66-68 degree)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "head tube and seat tube angle", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think you might be out of luck for anything commercially produced.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The cost of creating a wide variety of investment castings and distributing the product is high and the demand is minuscule.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might look into TIG-welded custom lugs, such as those made by ANT bikes or by Mark Nobilette as described in Bicycle Quarterly vol.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "4", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "no. 4 .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This ANT-built bike appears to be an example of a roadster geometry frame using custom lugs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most of the examples of bicycles I've seen in this style appear to have just very simple tubular lugs rather than anything particularly fancy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/675/lantius", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The best place I've found is Henry James Bicycle supply .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They make frame building jigs, and supply most boutique US based frame builders.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ceeway is a good choice in Europe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some lugs may need to be custom cast, or modified, depending on the head tube and seat tube angles you choose.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The fork rake will need to be fairly slack to match that style.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Nova Cycle Supply offers many framebuilding components including lugs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can't speak to geometries.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3088/802bikeguy.com", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "The title says it all. I want to build my own frame and need lugs that will fit the roadster (e.g. Raleigh Tourist) geometry.", "title": "Where can I buy lugs for a classic roadster frame geometry?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<framebuilding>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7616", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3373/Kai" }

[ [ "Roadster lugs are not available to individuals or small shops. They are made in India, China, Taiwan and the Netherlands. Distributors do not buy them. However, it appears they are available at Nova Cycle Supply, Ceeway and Henry James Bicycle supply. Perhaps the best way to get them is find a seller in India or Taiwan and ask for a sample. An alternative is to use very simple tubular lugs. ", "Some commenters say that Nova and Ceeway stock lugs, while others suggest that they are usually not made to order and can only be sourced from the manufacturers in Asia or the Netherlands. ANT Bikes, Mark Nobilette and Henry James Bicycle Supply are also good suppliers, but custom casting or modification may be necessary." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "These are usually not made to order, so they may only be available from Asia or custom made to fit your frame and preferences.", "Some commenters say that Nova and Ceeway stock lugs, while others suggest that they can only be sourced from the manufacturers in Asia or the Netherlands. ANT Bikes, Mark Nobilette and Henry James Bicycle Supply are also good suppliers, but custom casting or modification may be necessary." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I agree with the others, it doesn't seem like stickers should be a problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "My helmet has stickers on the shell added by the manufacturer - clearly they were added make me ride faster.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Paint is a different story... Polystyrene (aka Styrofoam) and certain other plastics can be damaged by the solvents used in paints, like some spray paints.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I believe petroleum solvents in particular can cause polystyrene to melt.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Polystyrene is sometimes used in crafts and model building, so a hobby store might stock some polystyrene safe paints or be able to recommend a brand of paint that'll be safe to use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3021/Jason Braucht", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As long as the material in the paint doesn't cause the helmet material to degrade, it should be fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "While helmets do sometimes break apart in a crash, that's not a primary design requirement for them to keep your head protected.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The two things a helmet does to keep your head safe during a crash are compress (to absorb the impact) and stay securely fastened to your head (so the foam stays between your head and the hard thing the helmet is hitting).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Breaking apart is very much a secondary thing that simply sometimes happens after the primary purpose (compressing) happens to destroy the bits holding the helmet together.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the stickers are a hard raised item that will compromise the effectiveness of the helmet, however, since the protrusion could be driven through the foam in a crash.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One of the concerns with stickers and paint to a lesser degree is that it may mask or hide damage to the shell.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Manufacturers reccomend inspection prior to every use and damage prior to or after application of a sticker could be hidden.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Stickers are fine... paint is the danger as mentioned already.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some helmets are constructed using a thin plastic shell that is stuck to the foam base.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you remove the shell and paint that seperately, then re-attach it you should be fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "However, as you should get a new helemt every few years, to make the manufactures happy and to be safe because the materials break down over time due to UV light and other variables, I'd just go out and find a nice helmet in the colour that you want.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The cost isn't extremely high and you'd look very chic ;-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3291/Chef Flambe", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "About stickers: The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute writes in an article: The Snell Memorial Foundation has informed us that the hundreds of crashed helmets they examined in a study done in the mid-1990's with Harborview Injury Prevention Center showed no ill effects from any of the stickers that had been applied.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But duct tape can compromise a helmet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Details are in the article.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3674/unforgettableidSupportsMonica", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I personally wouldn't worry about most stickers and decals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Paint can be more of a problem, or if you used the wrong clear coating over a sticker/decal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a question of whether the particular paint reacts with the plastic shell.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "Would sticking stickers on a helmet or painting them etc make a helmet less useful in a crash? Not knowing the science of helmets but perhaps stickers in the wrong place might make it not behave how the manufacturer intended during a crash (not breaking apart correctly)?", "title": "Do stickers or paint compromise a helmet?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><helmets><modification>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7687", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3258/davidsleeps" }

[ [ "Sticker do not damage a helmet, parts of the helmet may however be damaged by the solvents found in paint. It may, nevertheless, be possible to find a suitable paint in a hobby store. Stickers do pose a potential problem in that they may hide any helmet damage, so the helmet should be inspected before the sticker is applied.", "Stickers have not been found to compromise a helmet's effectiveness, but the chemicals in some paints can damage the body and sometimes the shell of a helmet. Stickers could be a problem if they protrude or are used to cover existing damage, and duct tape can compromise helmets. You could use paint that is designed not to react with the helmet materials or paint the shell separately from the more sensitive polystyrene, but a better solution could be choosing your preferred colour on your next regular replacement." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Stickers have not been found to compromise a helmet's effectiveness, but the chemicals in some paints can damage the body and sometimes the shell of a helmet. Stickers could be a problem if they protrude or are used to cover existing damage, and duct tape can compromise helmets.", "You could use paint that is designed not to react with the helmet materials or remove and paint the shell before reattaching to the more sensitive polystyrene, but a better solution could be finding your preferred colour on your next regular replacement." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "In that order (my opinion, of course): Tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bad tires suck your energy and are prone to flats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good tires can make your bike fly, sometimes even act as a suspension.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As an extra, tires aren't actually part if the bike, so if you have good tires, you can use it in other bike(s); Brakes and brake levers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is safety and comfort.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bad brakes can make your hands sore, if you have to squeeze them too much to stop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good brakes give you much more control of the bike than anything else.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good brakes are THE things that allow you to go really fast if you want/need. Saddle and grips.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "These are contact points on the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the end, all the bike-rider interaction flows through them (and the shoes you use to pedal, but they are not part of the bike).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These parts alone can turn a very nice ride into a very painful one, and vice-versa.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think if these are OK, it's possible to live with a relatively cheap bike, provided it fits and don't require too much mainteinance, which are also required for a nice biking experience.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In a bike that costs, new, only 150GBP, you have to ask where the savings will have been made and the easy first answer is: everywhere.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The frame will likely not be massively stiff and will be fairly fragile in comparison with its more expensive peers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Steel is fairly forgiving giving a comfortable ride, but you don't want too much give.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The wheels will probably need attention too, expect the tyres to be thin and offer little puncture protection, the rims will be weak and probably lose their trueness relatively quickly and the hubs and bearings will need TLC quite soon too.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Expect the chain to be thinner and stretchier than you'd like and the rear cog to lose its bite quickly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The brake compound will be soft and disappear fast and the cables won't hold their tension for long.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously these are all worse case scenarios -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but given that you could spend the purchase price on just a pair of tyres, a pair of inner tubes and two pairs of brake pads - a bike at this price isn't necessarily the saving you might hope for.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In order to get from A to B, this bike would work, but if A and B are too far apart", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and you're making that journey fairly frequently, then it might not work for that long.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But to make a real difference, well, send it back and spend a little more up front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In general all new bikes make some concessions to price, but they'll be more than the sum of their parts.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The manufacturers pay less than you'd be able to buy the components in the shop, so you'd be better off finding a better bike to start with.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "As the old Irish saying goes, \"if you want to get there, I wouldn't start from here.\"", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "First thing to do is to get the bike completely tuned up -- wheels trued, bearings adjusted, shifters adjusted, brakes adjusted.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Changing out the brake pads (the ones supplied are often too hard or too soft) can often improve braking effectiveness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Depending on the bike design, adjusting brake lever position may or may not be possible and may or may not improve riding comfort and brake effectiveness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "And, of course, adjust the seat and handlebar.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If the handlebar can't be adjusted upward enough or has the wrong \"reach\" (probably even more common with expensive bikes)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then replacement parts are available to fix this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good quality tires, appropriate to your riding style, are a fairly cheap investment.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The right seat (which is something of a personal choice) can make a big difference in comfort.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your critical factors are comfort, stability, braking effectiveness, and ease of use (eg, shifters that work reliably, etc).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Plus basic bike \"fit\" to your body.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Many of the features of fancier bikes -- light weight, exotic materials, bladed spokes, et al -- are vastly overrated and will make little difference in your riding experience.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The cheapest thing to upgrade on a bicycle is the motor.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It costs as much as a bit of extra food and time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ride a lot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ride up big hills a lot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Go as fast as you can.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Edited because some dumbass downvoted this most brilliant answer: None other than Eddy Mercx, (who won the Tour de France 5 times and once cycled 49.431 km in an hour), once said: Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "QED", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Nice thing about cheap bikes is that they cost less than the sum of their components, and when you ride them, they get you from a-b just like the expensive bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The cheapest upgrade is to adjust and grease the bearings properly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While doing this, the bearings with cages can be replaced with loose ball bearings giving more bearing contact points.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Adjust the wheels properly for true and spoke tension.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I you learn to do this yourself", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it costs almost nothing, just need a spoke wrench, and a cheap bike is a good one to learn skills on.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I put chain adjusters on my fixie's rear axles to help align the wheel while setting the chain tension, there are some very inexpensive ones on the web.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Tools needed to work on your own bike are always a good investment.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3849/bayc", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have to add another option to the answer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The most cost effective way to improve a bicycle is sell it and buy a better bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is almost always a better option for all bikes, from cheap to expensive, except custom builds.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As a rule a bicycle is worth a lot less than the cost of its parts.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Unless you can get parts for significantly less than normal prices, upgrading the entire bike is more cost effective.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a particular desire to keep the bike and upgrade it, often the most cost effective upgrade is a donor bike, unfortunately this requires a large outlay up front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The most expensive way to upgrade a bike is piece by piece as you can afford it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "What are things to improve on a cheap bicycle that make a real difference? I'm looking at the bang for buck tradeoff. The bike is an inexpensive Fixie/Track Bike (less than 150GBP). 11 kg steel frame Flat bar Front and rear V-Brakes", "title": "Best bang for the buck to improve a cheap fixie?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<maintenance>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7992", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3068/will" }

[ [ "Cheap bikes are often not worth it as putting them right will cost more than the bike itself. It is often better to invest in a more expensive bike. However, if you must fix up a cheap bike, there are a number of ways to improve it. The major things to look at are tires, brakes, brake pads, a good saddle, adjust brakes, bearings and shifters, adjust seat and handlebar.", "Buying a better quality bike may be cheaper than upgrading a cheap bike with expensive individual parts. Another cheaper option is to use parts from a donor bike. For the best value upgrades, good quality tyres are more durable, comfortable and efficient, and can be used on other bikes. Good brake levers and pads give you better control and safety. A comfortable saddle and grips will make a big difference. Proper tools will allow you to maintain your bike. Completely tune the bike and adjust the positioning of the seat, handlebars and brake levers if possible for the best fit." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Buying a better quality bike may be cheaper than upgrading a cheap bike with expensive individual parts. Another cheaper option is to use parts from a donor bike.", "Good quality tyres are more durable, comfortable and efficient, and can be used on other bikes. Good brake levers and pads give you better control and safety. A comfortable saddle and grips will make a big difference. Proper tools will allow you to maintain your bike.", "Completely tune the bike and adjust the positioning of the seat, handlebars and brake levers if possible for the best fit." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Your local bike shop should be able to sell you some carbon gripping compound, for example Finish Line Fiber Grip.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Other similar brands are available!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've no idea what the seatpost clamp is on your bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I'm always suspicious of ones that are hand tightened.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have 2 bikes with carbon seatposts & Ali frames, I use Salsa clamps that require an allen key & I don't experience any slippage.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3412/Nick H", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have never used carbon frames or components, but I've had similar issues with aluminum posts in aluminum mountain bike frames.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In all cases the clamp was a hand tightened quick release type.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I also helped friends with this issue, some of them had carbon frames or seat posts.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Possible causes and correction applied where as follows: Clamp is not providing enough clamping force.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Adjust the clamp.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Almost always this kind of clamp has some quick release lever in one side, and a corresponding bolt or nut in the opposite side, tighten it a little bit at a time until problem disappears.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Seatpost or inside the seat tube is dirty or oily.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Debris, sand, mud, oil or even water between seat tube and seat post will create this kind of problem, also accelerating wear of both even when no apparent slippage occurs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Clean both and make sure they are reasonably dry before putting them back together.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "How does all the stuff get in there?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "mainly the rear wheel trows it, it sticks to the seatpost and then, during cleanup it runs down into the seat tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some frames are more prone than others to collect dust.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Shall this be the case, there are commercially available neoprene or rubber protections that seal the clamp area, but on the cheap you can use scraps from old inner tubes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The quick release lever is producing too much friction: due to dirt and/or damage or wear, the quick release may be developing too much friction, giving the false feel of tightening, but the force you excerpt is being wasted.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Inspect the clamp and be sure it is not dirty or deformed, specially around the quick release pivot.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Friction surfaces of the quick release and their counterparts shall be clean, smooth and dent free.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some clamps have a plastic, teflon or steel \"cushion\" that help these friction surfaces slide.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This must be well shaped and clean.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The friction surface of the quick release lever can be lubed with oil or light grease.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That also helps reducing the force required to securely tighten the seat post.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Dents and small deformations can be sanded down and polished with very fine grit sand paper.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There is dirt caught between the clamp and the neck of the seat tube: Dirt or other materials caught in there can also prevent clamp force to properly tighten the seat tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Clean it, the the inside of the clamp and remove any stickers or loose paint.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Special attention with repainted frames here)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The inner surface of the clamp can also be lubed and it helps, but very little.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Clamp is misaligned: The seat tube has a cut part in the neck, this should be aligned with the clamp's gap (Unless some weird manufacturer says otherwise).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Check alignment, special attention if the clamp is an aftermarket one.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Wear: If your problem has been happening for a long time, chances are the seatpost or even the inner seat tube is worn out, thus having too much \"play\" between them and being too much flex for the seat tube to take up, so tightening it is not effective.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "To be sure seat post and seat tube must be measured with a precision caliper.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Shall wear be the problem, hopefully changing your seat post is enough to solve the problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Final considerations:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Never use excessive force to tighten the seatpost (or any other component), specially with carbon components, you'll cause too much stress and reduce the time to failure of the component.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If the carbon gripping stuff does not work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try a collar with two bolts.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "These are typically used for mountain bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously you need to ensure it is the correct size for your frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had the same problem mating my carbon cyclocross frame to my carbon seat-post.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Carbon gripping compound helped and seemed like the solution, but when it mattered (that is during the race) the seat-post slipped.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2839/multidynamic", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You can always go to a hardware store and get a stainless steel spiral screw hose clamp.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wrap the post with a couple of wraps of rubber from an old inner tube, then apply the clamp, tight against the existing collar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tighten the heck out of it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Always a risk you could crush a hollow post", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I suppose, but once you get that thing on the post isn't going to slip down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I had this problem and looked into it at the time and the carbon gripping compound as mentioned ny Nick H, is the way to go.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But there was also a \"cheap a&%e\" solution of using either hairspray or the spray-on adhesive for sticking paper together.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You spray some on the seatpost and clamp it tight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The light glue in the spray provides enough grip to keep the post in place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But its not so sticky that it stops the seatpost from being adjusted later on (and it can be washed off)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3392/nickdos", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have a Giant mountain bike with original seat and post.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It has been slipping side to side when I ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is kept tight with a seat post clamp.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I was just able to get it tighter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I needed to align the clamp with the opening of the seat tube (the receiving tube).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That is the part of the clamp which hold the screw or opening of the clamp must align with the crack or opening of the tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course you still need to adjust the clamp after.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30682/stanhi", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I bought a PVC tube of the same inside diameter as the outer diameter of my seat tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I positioned the saddle at the right height", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I measured the length between the seat and frame tube in which the seat tube engages.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I sawn PVC tube to this length.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just have to engage the seat tube in the PVC tube and the frame tube .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The PVC tube prevents the seat tube to slip more than the length of the PVC pipe .This works for me now.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This works for me now.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20991/yame2be", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I got a Cannondale Quick1 2010 , with the seatpost made with aluminium carbon-wrapped. The problem is that the seatpost tends to slide downwards, even if I squeeze a lot the snap ring; if the ground is uneven the seatpost slips completely. Is there a way to solve this problem? Many thanks.", "title": "Problems with a slipping seatpost", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<seatpost>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8090", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3463/Sam Qasbah" }

[ [ "There could be a number of reasons for a seat post slipping. There is dirt or oil on the post or tube. The clamp may be dirty or deformed. A carbon gripping product may solve the problem. Apparently, a cheaper product to do the same job is hairspray. Moreover, Salsa clamps or a collar with two bolts may hold the seat in place. Finally, the clamp alignment should be chacked as this may well be the cause.", "If there is dirt or oil in the seat tube or seatpost, there may not be enough friction to grip the post. Make sure the friction surfaces are clean and smooth, and remove small dents and deformations with very fine sandpaper. Carbon gripping compound, lube or the cheaper options of hairspray or spray-on adhesive are often advised, but may not be sufficient. A stronger clamp can help, but excessive force should never be used, particularly with carbon components. This problem can also be caused by misalignment of the clamp or a worn seatpost or seat tube." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "If there is dirt or oil in the seat tube or seatpost, there may not be enough friction to grip the post. Make sure the friction surfaces are clean and smooth, and remove small dents and deformations with very fine sandpaper.", "Carbon gripping compound, lube or the cheaper options of hairspray or spray-on adhesive can help, but may not be sufficient.", "A stronger clamp can help, but excessive force should never be used, particularly with carbon components.", "This can be caused by misalignment of the clamp or a worn seatpost or seat tube." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "In general, I don't know why one would do this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Especially men.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Here's what Sheldon Brown has to say, and I tend to agree:\"If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands.\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Lennard Zinn mentions that a \"very slight\" tilt in either direction may be optimal for some riders; but no more than ~2 degrees.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Basically the same reasons that Sheldon Brown mentions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The downward forward tilt adds pressure on the arms, back, and shoulders due to sliding forward.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You want your \"sit bones\" to be on the widest part of the saddle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you slide forward, the pressure will shift from the sit bones to the perineum; and that's probably a bad thing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are special cases for tilting the saddle nose downward; but for the general rider it's not necessary.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I had some saddles that in some bikes were best with a slight tilt down, otherwise they would crush my perineum.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One of my current saddles (Brooks) is tilted nose-up, otherwise it is very uncomfortable because I feel thrown forward.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the end, I think it depends on: Rider's anatomical shape; Saddle shape (in case of a leather saddle, might change over time);", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Overall position of the bike (if you put the saddle on different bikes, optimal tilt might vary; Cruise speed of the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you pedal hard, tilt down might be fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you pedal slowly and upright, most probably tilt down would be very uncomfortable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Tilting the saddle forward relieves lower back pain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't take my word for it; here is a clinical trial in the British Journal of Sports Medicine:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://m.bjsm.bmj.com/content/33/6/398.short", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They tilt the saddle forward a lot (10-15 degrees), and show big improvements in back pain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had this problem and it worked for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you look at the spine position drawings it's pretty obvious", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "why: tilting forward means your back doesn't have to round so much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Though 10-15 degrees is a bit extreme I think.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "5-7 degrees was enough for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14050/alzy", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I tilt the seat down slightly to make it much more comfortable for me to ride, When the seat is horizontal, I find I end up with pain from that narrow part of the seat pressing where it shouldn't.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Tilting the seat down means that I am only in contact with the slightly wider part of the seat.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The way I have my bars set up means there is no possibility of sliding forwards on the seat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While my bike is a road racer, with bars and seat set up accordingly, I use it for commuting - about 35 miles a day.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2077/Rory Alsop", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Quite a few bike messengers tilt their saddle forward a little bit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally, I do it because if you're riding a long distance, it will put more weight on your arms, tilt you forward, make you more aerodynamic", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": ", it's better for speed, and it takes the weight off of your \"sensitive areas\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are some pretty interesting studies about riders with perineum numbness.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tilting the saddle forward will help relieve the stress on the mentioned area, and put more of it on the sitting area.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "BE CAUTIOUS", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ": this will put considerably more stress on the arms and shoulders.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be prepared.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As with anything else, your body will adapt naturally after a while.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11484/KidAlleyCat", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For time trialing, or other riding where the rider will be in a very aggressive position for extended periods of time, a slight tilt forward can relieve unnecessary pressure on the perineum.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3458/prototoast", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have what most people would call an extreme forward tilt on my saddle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use a racing saddle with a large cut out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The reason I use this angle is to stop me getting pressure on the perenium.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have been riding like this for around twenty years to the derision of \"experts\" wherever I go.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I recently rode the new forest epic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My first sportive with no training in 6.01 with no ill effects and no nasty numb areas.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I sit on the top wide edge of the seat and the nose drops away at that point and makes no contact with sensitive areas.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My riding position is aggressive but feels comfortable with my body almost acting like a stressed member with weight spread between between balls of feet on pedals, hands on hoods and bum on top edge of saddle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I understand there may well be loads of studies done on bike fit and there may well be a bible on the ultimate riding position, but maybe more time should be spent looking at \"people\"in relation to bike fit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I love riding my bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a reasonably decent boardman roadbike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I do not own a car", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so I use my bike to commute, for recreation and fitness.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I love my wacky but effective riding position!!!?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Enjoy your riding everyone:-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13296/steve griffin", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I have seen a few people do this where their saddle was angled down a bit. Why would someone do that?", "title": "What are the advantages of angling your saddle down?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<saddle>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8131", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1473/Chris Belsole" }

[ [ "Tilting the saddle forward is generally done for reasons of comfort and especially for long distance riding. I straight saddle can cause back pain, discomfort to the perineum and crusch your \"sensitive parts\". Bike messengers often tilt their seats forward. However, it does cause the rider to slide forwards putting more pressure on the hands.", "Some riders tilt their saddle forward to relieve seat or back discomfort, shift pressure to the hands or adjust to a more comfortable posture. Other riders find a tilted position more comfortable for fast riding in a more aerodynamic position. Tilting may result from using an unsuitable saddle, e.g. women riding with a men's saddle. Experts suggest that some tilt may help, but too much can create new problems." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Some riders tilt their saddle forward to relieve seat or back discomfort, shift pressure to the hands or adjust to a more comfortable posture. This may result from using an unsuitable saddle, e.g. women riding with a men's saddle. Experts suggest that some tilt may help, but too much can create new problems.", "Some riders find a tilted position more comfortable for fast riding in a more aerodynamic posture." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The main thing is that the Presta valve is thinner, and takes less of a bite out of the rim.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is quite important as the rims get narrower.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Further, the Presta works better with hand pumps in that there's no spring that the pump needs to overcome to get air into the tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, the Presta always has the fully-threaded body (which is possible with Schrader, but rare), so a nut can be used to hold the valve in place -- again, quite important with hand pumps.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Never had a bike valve stem break on me, that I can recall.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 43 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This primarily comes up as the pressures in the tires get higher.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With lower pressure wider tires, Schrader makes the most sense, if only because you can hit a gas station for some air pressure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Presta makes more sense on higher pressure tires, since it allows you to pump in higher levels with a floor pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Per the comments let me try and clarify.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you use a Schrader stem the valve is depressed by a thingy in the pump head the whole time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With a mechanical constant pressure pump (like at a gas station) this is fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But with a floor pump where there is a pause between pumps, Presta works better because each time you release pressure, the valve head closes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Then as you build pressure in the pump, when it exceeds the tires current pressure it forces the value to open, allows air in, and repeat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thus you can pump to higher pressures with it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Or at least with poorer quality pumps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if it bothers you, get the little one dollar adapters, and you can use a car pump with no issue.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc", "score": 25 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Schrader valves are more robust, this is the reason why you see them universally in use for vehicle tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "With Presta, you have to be more careful when putting in or taking off the pump nozzle or you might bend or even break either the rotating (locking) tip of the valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could also go to literally any gas station to pump air to your tires if you are using a Shrader valve.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Presta's advantage is that it is thinner and the rim has a smaller valve hole in which case it makes the rim stronger.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This can be a factor especially in thin bicycle rims.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another advantage of Presta valves is they can be made longer, a lot longer in fact than Shrader valves.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is especially important when you have deep aero type rims.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3111/cyclo", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've also had fewer issues with crap clogging the valve with presta valves; as long as you remember to spin the valve closed you don't need a valve stem cap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is particularly important if you're riding in mud or dirt.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I run presta on both my road and mountain bikes for this reason.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2362/lawndartcatcher", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have used both presta and shrader valves, like neither.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I go for Blitz/Dunlop.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Easier to use than both others.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe it is just a case of what you are used to,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I think the Dunlop least fussy, easiest to use and least likely to fail.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18917/Willeke", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Your rim will be drilled for one of the two.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually a schrader.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A presta (which is thinner) will allows fit in a schrader sized whole, but give more freedom for the valve to move around, often causing a valve wall tear and leading lots of people to think \"wow what a useless valve\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A typical case of human error.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This can easily be countered with a schrader to presta valve converter, a cheap little bit of plastic cushioning which usually costs pennies.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Prestas are far more performant in terms of the amount of pressure they can hold, and the rate they can take air in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Schraders are widely used not just because \"they're the best\" but because they've become a standard which is hard to break away from.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5638/S..", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In addition to what others have said, many gas station air compressors won't push the tire pressure past 80 psi.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is fine for cars where the tires are usually inflated to about half that, but no good for a road bike where you probably want 100+ psi.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This means that you're stuck using a floor pump, a frame pump, or a Co2 pump alll the time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And as others have mentioned, Prestas just work better with hand pumps.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And if you're filling your tires to 100+ psi all the time, you might as well have a valve that works easily with the pump that you'll be using.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader. I personally think Schrader are better: I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta No problems if needing to use car pumps Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims Less fiddly", "title": "Why are both Schrader and Presta valves still used on tubes?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<valves>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8157", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/316/Simon" }

[ [ "Presta valves are thinner and longer, they are easier to pump, better with hand pumps and work better on high pressure tires. Schrader valves are more robust and are used universally on vehicles tires.", "Presta valves are thinner and take more pressure, which is useful for road bikes. They can also have longer valves, which can be used in aero wheels. Presta valves close without a spring when air pressure is removed, and can be attached more securely to a pump. This makes them preferable for use with hand pumps. Presta valves are also better at keeping out dirt without a cap. Schrader valves can be used with gas station compressors and are more resistant to damage, which is why they are used on most road vehicles." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Presta valves are thinner and take more pressure, which is useful for road bikes. They can also have longer valves, which can be used in aero wheels. Presta valves close without a spring when air pressure is removed, and can be attached more securely to a pump. This makes them preferable for use with hand pumps. Presta valves are also better at keeping out dirt without a cap.", "Schrader valves can be used with gas station compressors and are more resistant to damage, which is why they are used on most road vehicles." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Aside from weight, there is no real benefit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Titanium is an alloyed steel, and has no limitation on weight or riding style, generally, although there are likely ultra light versions which do have limits.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Titanium alloys are typically made of Aluminum and Vanadium:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "e.g. on a 3AL/2.5V Ti bike Frames for instance there is 3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium and the rest is Titanium.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Main benefits of Titanium is no corrosion, immense resistance to fatigue (material failure due to cyclic constraints), and weight indirectly (i.e. stronger material allows to use thinner tubing, for bike frames for instance).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Titanium parts are usually very very long lasting, mainly due to resistance to fatigue and corrosion.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19148/petiot", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have broken a Ti stem that held my handlbars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ti seat rail Ti frame (in 3 places now, alas)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So Ti is not magical, but this is on a 18 year old frame now, so not that surprising.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have broken several axles, but steel ones have been sufficient for the last few years for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I suspect weight is the only benefit, however when you care at the level of a few grams, it seems silly when a full water bottle weighs almost a kilo.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(1 litre of water weighs 1 kilo)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The rear wheel (with a Ti skewer) on one of my road bikes would flex and rub against the frame when I stomped on the pedals or climbed a steep hill no matter how tight I made the skewer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I fixed the problem by switching to a steel skewer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No more flex and even the rear derailleur shifts better.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5105/mike m", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For skewers, weight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That's it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ti skewers will make your bike and your wallet lighter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2598/joelmdev", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Ti = really expensive = really light = usually racing parts = shortened lifespan due to the gram saving which actually weakens the parts for the long haul.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If you race and need every ounce shaved off and your sponser is paying", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then they're great.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you don't race or are paying your own way then you'd be better off spending your cash on something meant for longer life and trying to skip that post ride beer to save on long term weight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3291/Chef Flambe", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It is light, and doesn't corrode.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The skewer doesn't take weight at all - that is all held on the axle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The skewer just provides compressive force to stop the axle dropping out of the forks.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1161/brendan", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For skewers, other than weight and durability, one unmentioned advantage of titanium is its resistance to corrosion .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Rusty steel skewers can get stuck inside your hub, forcing expensive replacement which is much less likely with titanium (you should still grease them though).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19001/zeFrenchy", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "What's the benefit of using titanium skewer beside the fact that it's light?Is it strong enough to hold my weight?", "title": "What's the benefit of a titanium skewer?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<wheels><skewer><titanium>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8170", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3189/Rick Ant" }

[ [ "Titanium parts are light, do not corrode and have great fatigue resistance, but they are expensive. They are great for racing but for normal use maybe not worth the money. ", "The main advantage is weight, although this is insignificant compared to other potential weight savings. Titanium parts resist corrosion and fatigue, and could eliminate potential costs caused by rusted and seized parts. Titanium parts are sometimes built thinner and can therefore be more liable to fail." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The main advantage is weight, although this is insignificant compared to other potential weight savings.", "Titanium parts resist corrosion and fatigue, and could eliminate potential costs caused by rusted and seized parts.", "While titanium is stronger, parts are sometimes built thinner and can therefore be more liable to fail." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Markus Storck, lead engineer and owner of German carbon frame powerhouse Storck Bicycles, told me at a conference about 3 months ago that the best ways to tell if a frame is cracked are movement and time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Movement, because a crack will flex if it's through the paint into the carbon, and you put pressure on the center of the crack, and time, because a crack will grow with time if it's more than paint.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are even halfway concerned with a crack, don't buy the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's just not worth the risk, unless you can afford to be wrong about the frame's ride-ability.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I hope that helps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Why don't you take the bike to a Cervelo dealer and have them check it out?If", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "the seller of the bike is being honest with you", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it shouldn't be a problem", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ">", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Last year I had a horriffic crash with my Trek Madone going over 20mph and the only damage my frame sustained was a small chip in the frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "otherwise the frame is perfectly sound.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3632/Charles Graham", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you can't feel it with a fingernail, the crack probably isn't in the carbon.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Another trick is to whack the tube with a quarter over and around the crack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Do the same at a similar location that doesn't have a crack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If there are any differences in sound, the frame has probably sustained damage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For what it's worth, I bought a bike with very similar circumstances in December.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I used a piece of tape to mark the beginning and end of the crack, so I can watch for any expansion.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "No movement so far.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1442/Stephen Touset", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The BB and head tube are some of the thickest carbon parts.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Listen to sound differences around it, but I think these areas would be some of the last places to crack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most cracks would occur either at a junction, thin spot, like middle of the down tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, if the crack you see has no marring, chipping or other damage on either side, its probably superficial.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Cracks caused by outside forces (impact) would leave other evidence on the paint, like scuffs, chips, etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3124/Matt Adams", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Have a look at http://www.carbon-bike-check.com .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "AFAIK there is no other way to find structural issues in carbon frames.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Everything else is just guesswork.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even a competent dealer cannot look into the fibers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So if the frame is checked on the surface only, i wouldn't buy it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3655/Joerg Pacher", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I am looking at a carbon framed road bikethat has me concerned.On the topside of the bottom bracket,drive side there is a very small hairline crack in the paint.The seller states that it has been there for two years with no change.He was told by the dealer that it is just in the paint and a fairly common occurence.Anyone else experienced this?It is a three year old cervelo.The crack is 3/4 inch long and you can't feel it with a fingernail.", "title": "How to tell if a carbon frame is damaged or if the paint just has stress cracks", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<frames><carbon>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8472", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes" }

[ [ "It is difficult to tell if a crack in a carbon frame is in the paint only or has gone into the carbon. If you can't feel it with a fingernail, the crack probably isn't in the carbon and if the crack you see has no marring, chipping or other damage on either side, its probably superficial. Cracks caused by outside forces (impact) would leave other evidence on the paint, like scuffs, chips, etc. However, If you are even halfway concerned about a crack, you should not buy the frame.", "A crack in a carbon frame may be serious without being obvious. You should have it checked properly by a certified dealer or not risk it at all. A deeper crack will flex and grow over time, so use pressure to test for movement and tape for growth over time. Cracks in the carbon can usually be felt with a fingernail, or will sound different from other areas when tapped with a coin. Structural cracks usually leave evidence on the surface, especially when caused by outside forces." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A crack in a carbon frame may be serious without being obvious. You should have it checked properly by a certified dealer or not risk it at all.", "A deeper crack will flex and grow over time, so use pressure to test for movement and tape for growth over time.", "Cracks in the carbon can usually be felt with a fingernail, or will sound different from other areas when tapped with a coin. Structural cracks usually leave evidence on the surface, especially when caused by outside forces." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The \"pure\" answer to the question as asked is probably as others have said, climb as much as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But perhaps a better answer is to admit that cycling is awesome for aerobic fitness and leg strength but not as great on the upper body.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously, cross-training is an option, but even if you are 100% committed to your bike, you can probably get significant results from two common calisthenics pre and/or post ride: Push-ups and Pull-ups.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The key is that you want to develop your chest/shoulders/triceps (pushing) and your back/biceps (pulling), and doing multi-joint exercises is likely more efficient/helpful than isolation exercises.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you can't do pull-ups and don't have access to a lat pulldown machine you can help yourself by using your legs to give yourself a gentle assist.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have or can scrounge some dumbbells you can do a bit more.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try this: Do a set of 20-25 pushups, then 8-12 pull-ups, either just before or just after you put on your shorts/jersey.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do a second set 5 minutes later", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "after you've made up your water bottles, etc., put on your shoes, whatever.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pump up your tires and get your bike \"ready,\" then do a third set.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Go for a ride, and try to get in as much climbing as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll probably be amazed at how quickly your strength will improve just with three sets of good form concentrated upper body calisthenics pre-ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Again, if you have dumbbells or a weight bench you could do bench presses/military presses, or laterals, and you could do rows to help with the \"pull,\" but the goal isn't really do to a full on weightlifting session, just some quick calisthenics with one effective push and one effective pull exercise and at least two, preferably three sets as you prep for your ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3806/Dan Catlin", "score": 13 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I think there are two important ways to use your upper body riding a bicycle:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ride very steep hills, where you need to pull up the handlebar and swing your upper body to counteract the torque on the pedals (specially if you ride a bike without extra-low gears);", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Riding over technical terrain, like XC mountain bike and other stuff.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "While commuting, you can do these (or at least a bit of these) if you choose some unusual route if you live in a hilly area.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that is not the case, I am afraid riding itself is not enough to provide significant upper-body exercise (except postural \"exercise\", which might indeed induce health issues if too prolongued).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hope this helps", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is a way to train your upper body while riding, but it's not the way most of people think of.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Have you ever looked at pro BMXers arms?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I rode BMX myself and can confirm that lots of bunnyhops, manuals and jumps are serious upper back, and whole arms workout.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Just think of it, in a bunnyhop you pull with your lower and upper back, together with the arms, then you push using again your back and arms.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But I don't know how this could go under common term of riding :-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5688/J-unior", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "From years of experience, I have found that riding with your upper body (arms/ chest / back) flexed, you will get a significantly better upper body work out than with your upper body relaxed, where you don't get any work out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If your riding on rough terrain try to jump and wheelie your front tire over objects here and there; if your riding on the street, try to jump curbs and bunny hop on curbs here", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "and there, just be careful with traffic...try to find a trail/ route that you can master.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A quick upper body work out after your done riding helps as well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14228/Dan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Something mentioned before but without explaination:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The position you sit while riding can affect upper body strength.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When changing from a long ride on a cruiser to a long ride on a road bike, after the road bike trek I feel my arms working harder from holding more of my body weight up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The geometry of your frame, seat height and handlebar position can greatly affect how much work your upper body does while cycling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If I had a mountain bike, I wouldn't however try to adjust a mountain bike to road bike dropdowns specifically for this though!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3804/Adam", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Your bike is not a whole body gym.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You could do sprints standing in extreme gears, accelerating as fast as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Sprinters tend to have developed upper bodies.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They don't develop them on the bike, but they use them enough.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4154/Tim Zwart", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Biking is not an upper body work out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "As a matter of fact: on longer treks I have found my arms getting rather numb.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Riding a stationary bicycle that works both arms and legs simultaneously is an upper body workout.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Riding a stationary bicycle that just pedals like your standard bicycle is not an upper body work out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sorry ... Unless you are not using your hands on the handle bars and swinging your arms wildly or flapping them, you are not exercising your upper body while riding a standard bicycle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "While exercising: make sure you do get enough liquids when riding and don't overdo it, because it can be a long way home.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5795/amcuriousity", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "On a stationary bike you can press down in your thighs with both hands while you pedal to get a pretty good upper body workout.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On a moving bike you might be able to use one hand to steer and one hand to press on a thigh.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17148/gregm", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I often hear people say “your bike is a whole-body gym”. I know my upper body workout will never be close to the workout my legs get, but so long as I’m a bike commuter, I figure I ought to get as much as I can out of it. I have a Trek 8.3DS, flat handlebars, no bullhorns, no upright grips. How do I adjust my riding style/choice of bike/choice of equipment/types of rides to maximize whatever upper body exercise biking can give me?", "title": "How do I maximize my upper body workout from riding?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<training><fitness><hybrid-bike>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8812", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3538/Zac B" }

[ [ "The truth is that cycling is a amazing for aerobic and leg fitness but it has little affect on the upper body. There are some exrcises that could be done while riding, such as pressing down hard on the handlebars and going off road where the terrain makes you use your upper body more. However, the best solution is to do upper bosy work in addition to cycling, maybe cross-training or some simple upper body exercises that can be done at home.", "While climbing, sprinting, mountain biking on technical terrain, BMX riding and changing your position when riding can exercise your upper body to some extent, cycling should generally not be considered a ful-body workout. A better option is to mix other exersises in with the cycling, such as calisthenics before and/or after cycling. Stationary bikes also allow more of a full-body workout, but the upper body needs to be active to see an effect." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "While climbing, sprinting, mountain biking on technical terrain, BMX riding and changing your position when riding can exercise your upper body to some extent, cycling should generally not be considered a ful-body workout.", "A better option is to mix other exersises in with the cycling, such as calisthenics before and/or after cycling. Stationary bikes also allow more of a full-body workout, but the upper body needs to be active to see an effect." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The Schlumpf drives have been around for several years and incorporate a two-speed planetary gear drive attached to the bottom bracket.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With the heel of your shoe, you tap a small button centered on the end of the bottom bracket to engage and disengage the planetary gear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Three models are available: a \"mountain gear\" version that lowers whatever other gears you have by a factor of 2.5; a \"speed gear\" version that raises your other gears by 1.65x; and a \"high-speed gear\" version that raises your other gears by 2.5x.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The Schlumpf drives have been marketed to specialty bicycles such as folding or recumbent bikes that use small diameter wheels, and thus can have difficulty getting \"normal\" gearing using off-the-shelf components.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Schlumpfs have also been installed on unicycles which (obviously) are ordinarily a single fixed-gear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "An advantage of the Schlumpf drive is that with only one chain ring, there is no need for a front derailleur and the chain line is straight -- and one can tap the button to engage or disengage the drive even while stopped.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, despite the straight chain the Schlumpf drive appears to be less efficient in terms of power transmission.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Measurements suggest that the Schlumpf drives \"cost\" about 5% extra in drive train losses.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since conventional derailleur systems range from around 92% to 97% in transmission efficiency (see for example, the work of Kyle and Berto here ), an additional 5% loss can be a considerable cost.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pinion has brought an 18-speed gearbox to the market, the P1.18.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It isn't a \"true\" bottom-bracket with internal gears as is the Schlumpf -- rather, the gearbox is in a separate housing attached next to the bottom bracket, and it is not an \"after-market\" solution that can be easily added onto an existing bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The Pinion is intended for downhill or freeride bicycles that are purpose-built around the device.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2195/R. Chung", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Technically, no, there is no current commercially available gearbox bottom bracket.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most likely, the Truvativ Hammerschmidt is the crankset you are thinking of.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There were also gearboxes designed by Honda, and a few other brands.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It allows a single chain ring, 2 x 9 or 2 x 10 gearing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is mainly aimed at the DH or freeride market, as it is a heavy, but very tough piece of kit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The gearing is not suited for XC or endurance rides, for that reason.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As you can see in the Anatomy View below, the gear change is accomplished not in the Bottom bracket, but in the chain guide.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I hope that helps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The technical manual can be found here .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Wikipedia (\"Bicycle Gearing\") and Google eventually led me to this: http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html and this: http://pinion.eu/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18/ (I would be afraid to put my money on these... ;o)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "FSA Metropolis.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/04/26/fsa-unveils-metropolis-patterson-drive-internal-geared-crankset-for-commuters/ Advantages?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No front derailer and better ground clearance at the crankset.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Disadvantages?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Expensive.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Proprietary.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3088/802bikeguy.com", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Kervelo uses some type of geared bottom bracket in its front wheel drive recumbent bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't know how it works", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but they have a website.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They make three models.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A tourer, a racing model, and a tricycle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36149/Raymon Y. Seko", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I've heard that one can install a bottom bracket that has what is essentially a built-in internal hub, giving one the ability to add a virtual double chainring where there's only one. This would be designed to be used in concert with whatever gear cluster or internal hub you have installed in the rear. If this is true, does it exist in this form, or have I heard of a distorted version of the device? What are the advantages and disadvantages of such a bottom bracket?", "title": "Bottom bracket with built-in internal hub - does this exist?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<bottom-bracket><chainring><internally-geared-hub>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8872", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange" }

[ [ "A bottom bracket with a built-in internal hub does exist. It is called the Schlumpf drive and it has been around for several years. An advantage of the Schlumpf drive is that with only one chain ring, there is no need for a front derailleur and the chain line is straight -- and one can tap the button to engage or disengage the drive even while stopped. However, despite the straight chain the Schlumpf drive appears to be less efficient in terms of power transmission.", "Several gear drives are available, and are usually marketed for specific purposes such as unicycles or recumbant bicycles with small wheel diameters. Advantages include the elimination of a front derailleur and the ability to shift without moving, but this kind of system is expensive, proprietary and significantly less efficient in transmitting power." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Several gear drives are available, and are usually marketed for specific purposes such as unicycles or recumbant bicycles with small wheel diameters.", "There are some advantages like the elimination of a front derailleur and the ability to shift without moving, but this kind of system is expensive, proprietary and significantly less efficient in transmitting power." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Do it little by little.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Like a learner driver, go find a car park or a quiet road", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": ", you don't want to be doing this in the traffic.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ironically, you probably don't want to be doing this on a surface that will give you a soft landing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I suppose a flat playing field might work, but cycling on grass isn't as smooth as cycling on tarmac and you'll need a predictable, flat surface to work with.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The biggest skill to master is steering through weight, not through moving the handlebars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You probably do this anyway, but it's something to work on deliberately while you've got two hands on the bars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just sway your weight from side to side and try to go in the direction you want - in a moment you'll be steering like this for real, so try and get it going well when you don't need it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't think it's worth going one handed first", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "- this is an all-or-nothing exercise.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Get going in a straight line with your hands lightly on top of the bars (if you're on dropped handle-bars) and just relax your hands.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Hold them flat on the bars and just lift them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't look at them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just lift them a little.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A fraction of an inch will feel like a foot ...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But then just try to do things with the hands off the bars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do the leaning and swaying from side to side.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just a little amount.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just enough to drift a little off line then get you back going in a straight line.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then once you're happy, try to sit up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The more you practice, the less of a problem this becomes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will feel very unsteady as your centre of gravity moves around.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The key here is that on most bikes your centre of gravity is quite low, somewhere around your knees, but as you take your hands off the bars and sit up, it rises significantly, so you need to be happy in controlling it and how to react to how the bike is taking it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Pretty soon you'll be taking corners.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, don't forget that, unless you're on a fixed or have non-standard equipment, the only way to stop suddenly is probably quite painful ...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced", "score": 20 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You should find it pretty easy to pedal with no hands for a second.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Once you're able to do this, progressively leave your hands off the bars for longer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "It's easy to work up to riding no handed comfortably.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Two things you should note: Riding no-handed is actually pretty dangerous.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you accidentally hit a walnut-sized rock it can turn your handlebars enough to toss you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Riding no-handed is illegal in some areas, and you can get a hefty ticket (e.g. Ontario).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One thing to mention is if the bike is messed up at all, it's a lot harder to ride no-handed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a \"beater\" I bought for $1 at a garage sale to ride/leave at the train station.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It must have a bend in the frame somewhere b/c I can't let go of the bars", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "w/out it pulling.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My road bike however, I can go easily and corner no handed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think it's easiest to do while pedaling, and to learn to \"stear with your hips\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Hope that helps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/853/Don", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Half off-topic, as this does not really answer your question, but I think this warning is quite in order, and thus on-topic: Don't ride no-handed .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "At the very least, not without shoes that lock into your pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The reason is the failure mode, which I, for one, unfortunately learned the hard way: When you ride no-handed, you have exactly three points of contact with your bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The saddle, and the two pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That suffices to keep your balance and allows for steering.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But there is no redundancy at all .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you loose one pedal from under your foot, you immediately loose the other one too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your pedals are connected to each other, and the pressure of one foot provides the counter-pressure from the other pedal to the other foot that's necessary to keep both feet connected to your bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After you've lost your pedals, you only have one connection left to your bike, the saddle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And that is neither enough for keeping balance in the long run, nor for any kind of steering.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You immediately, and utterly loose control over your bike .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's just game-over.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your bike is heading for a moat, you'll end up in the moat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your bike is heading for an oncoming truck, you'll meet this truck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll neither have a chance of braking, nor to regain control in any way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When this happened to me, I was heading towards a traffic light that was about 5 to 10 meters away, and there was nothing I could do to reduce the impact.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This encounter got me four weeks on crutches, and a lesson well-learned.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I hope you do learn this lesson from me, instead of learning it the hard way as I did.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36555/cmaster - reinstate monica", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've just re-learned this at age 40.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a lot easier (at least for me) on a rigid bike than one with suspension, as the bike is more responsive to shifting your weight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also - remind yourself to look ahead instead of down at your handlebars, and make sure you are comfortable perched on the saddle with your weight back - the saddle is going to be the main way you move the bike around.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I agree with cmaster that the best place to do this is away from a road where you would interact with vehicle traffic, as it takes an extra second or two to get your hands on the brakes for an emergency.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are bike lanes closed to vehicle traffic where I live, and you can easily steer around the odd pedestrian without holding your handlebars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39519/kamyonet", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Learning to ride no-handed has been on my new year resolution list year after year after year and I still haven't done it. I'm 46 so I need to be careful about falling off. Do people have fool-proof techniques for learning to ride no-handed they can share? Just to clarify after Daniel 's comment below I have three bikes, a racer, a commuting bike, and a mountain bike. The mountain bike is twitchy but the others feel stable.", "title": "How does one ride 'no handed'?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<technique>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8924", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3704/dumbledad" }

[ [ "Riding no-handed is quite dangerous and in some places illegal. To learn this skills, practice is needed. This should be done away from roads. The biggest skill to master is steering through weight, not through moving the handlebars. It may be best to go gradually, riding with the hands lightly on the handlebars and then taking them off when you feel ready. It should be noted that as you have no hands on the brakes, stopping suddenly can be quite painful.", "Riding no hands is dangerous and illegal in some places. It is impossible to brake suddenly and a small obstacle can cause you to fall off. If you still want to learn, find a place to practise away from traffic, but with a smooth, flat surface where you have time to stop. Build up gradually by taking the weight off your handlebars, then removing your hands for a couple of seconds. Get used to steering with your hips and body weight and remember that your centre of gravity is higher. Keep pedaling while learning." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Riding no hands is dangerous and illegal in some places. It is impossible to brake suddenly and a small obstacle can cause you to fall off. If you still want to learn, do this away from roads and make sure that your bike is working properly.", "Find a place to practise away from traffic, but with a smooth, flat surface where you have time to stop.", "Build up gradually by taking the weight off your handlebars, then removing your hands for a couple of seconds. Get used to steering with your hips and body weight and remember that your centre of gravity is higher. Keep pedaling while learning." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Regular aerobic exercise is definitely of value for preparing for a big ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Spin is a good preparation in conjunction with some outdoor rides, but it is not a substitute for riding your bike on the road.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The feel of the bike, the balance, the momentum, and the environmental and traffic factors will have an effect on your fitness as well, some of which may be purely mental.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If time is limited, try spin 2-3 days a week, and build up your endurance, but also do at least one longer outdoor ride each week.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're riding 50 miles, you need to plan to be on the bike for 3-5 hours when you do the actual ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Build up to where you can handle 3 hours on the bike easily, and you'll do fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 27 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes and no. Spin classes do help with overall aerobic fitness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are shortcomings:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the first thought occurring to me is \"bike handling\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can do spin classes blindfolded.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "An actual ride means controlling the bike in various situations.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Secondly in a spin class, the \"rider\" determines the difficulty.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Actually riding, the difficulty is determined by the environment.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The upshot is that spin classes are good for aerobic fitness but other skills require different practice.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Spin workouts in general?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A good thing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I do spin workouts during the dark, wet, and cold Pacific NW winters.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Spin workouts do wonders for your cardiovascular endurance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So, you have that covered.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, spin workouts generally last 45 minutes to an hour.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A long ride is typically longer than that, so little to no help.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another thing in spin workouts is that the instructor will have you increase the resistance for \"hills\"; believe me, it never matches reality unless you really ramp up the resistance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Another thing, is that spin instructors often don't have actual experience in riding a real bike on real terrain; so not sure that it helps unless the spin instructor is actually a cyclist.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Take away?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually ramp things up; of course depending on the spin instructor.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "...Spin \"class\" is NOT a \"class\"...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's a workout...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 20 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In my experience the saddles on gym spin bikes are often a little more plush than a typical \"real\" bike saddle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Thus, one part of your body that you will never train, no matter how many spin classes you attend, is your butt's ability to tolerate a bike saddle for 50-75 miles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I believe the only way to train your butt to sit without significant discomfort on a real bike saddle for 50-75 miles is to sit on a real bike saddle for a significant number of miles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Several times.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I took a coworker on an easy, flat 25-mile route, and he was not accustomed to being on a bike saddle for that long.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "By the time we got back, he was effectively riding on one cheek, because the saddle was paining him so.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "His speed had slowed to a crawl.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3985/Zippy The Pinhead", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you don't have much experience on the bike, in a long event, be ready for pain in your hands, wrists, shoulders, back, and bottom.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Especially if your bike fit isn't perfect.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I ride 50-100mi per week (mostly road, some mountain), and my first spin class was really hard for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think the reverse is true as well; a good spinner may find that actual road riding is more dynamic and challenging.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try to get as many road rides in as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6363/Jeffro", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Spinning is fine if it's a long session but no substitute because your 100Km race is an endurance test for your muscles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So as others have said hydration is more important than your time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do the spinning but make sure you've ridden the 100KM on the real bike at least once before you do your trip.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just so you'll know what's coming.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hope you enjoy it!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4023/HCAI", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For anyone training for a big bike ride I would recommend the following.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Go out once a week and do a long ride increasing the distance by ten per cent a week.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do a shorter ride during the week, and if you can fit some interval training in on a spin bike that really helps with stamina.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A pyramid climb with some interval sessions straight after.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After one of your training sessions preferably the longer ride", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I did some squats, lunges and single leg deadlifts.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This really helped my climbing ability.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "All the hills I dreaded became mere blips, not just physically but visually.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I did the ride London and a ride in France which was shorter than the London one but hilly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31391/Lol", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "its appropriate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "i do spinning every winter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "great training, really pushes me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you'll do fine as long as its not a competitive event and you can ride your own pace.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "50-70 miles is not that long if you're on a racing bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "as others said: dont expect it to be too comfortable tho.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "cycling is an endurance sport, after all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd say do some riding too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's almost summer in the northern half of the world.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "perfect time for some relaxed riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if you dont like that, then why even bother going to the event?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if you do like it, then youll probably enjoy it more than sweating in some overheated gym class.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "its also good (pleasant and safe) to be familiar with your bike and riding, cornering etc when you ride in big groups.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4154/Tim Zwart", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I need to train for an upcoming bike ride and i wanted to see if attending a spin class 1-2 times a week (45 min course) would be appropriate way to prepare for a long bike ride (50 - 75 miles)", "title": "Does spin class prepare you for a long bike ride?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<training>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9226", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2005/leora" }

[ [ "Spin classes are good for aerobic fitness but they are no substitute for riding your bike on the road. The only real way to train for a long race is to ride long distances on the bike. Gradients are harder on the road than in a spin class and you have to get your body used to spending long periods of time in the saddle. Moreover riding a bike on the road requires balance and awareness that you do not get in a spin class.", "Spinning is useful for building up aerobic fitness and endurance, but does not teach important skills skills like road awareness and controlling the bike in different conditions. Spinning classes are usually shorter than long rides and simulated hill climbs are usually easier than the real thing. Stationary bikes are usually built differently with a more comfortable seat, so you may not be used to a long ride on an unfamiliar bike. Keep up the spinning classes, but try to introduce progressively longer outdoor rides too. Think about hydration more than the finishing time." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Spinning is useful for building up aerobic fitness and endurance, but does not teach important skills skills like road awareness and controlling the bike in different conditions. Spinning classes are usually shorter than long rides and simulated hill climbs are usually easier than the real thing. Stationary bikes are usually built differently with a more comfortable seat, so you may not be used to a long ride on an unfamiliar bike.", "Keep up the spinning classes, but try to introduce progressively longer outdoor rides too. Think about hydration more than the finishing time." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Here's a rack that will do six.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have no personal experience with this one and the fact that neither of the top two rack companies (Thule and Yakima) do a six bike rack", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "makes me think you should approach with caution.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "[Link removed due to the old link being expired/stale.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The link was to a \"Northshore 6 Bike Rack\"]", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have seen, with mixed success, 4-bike bike racks where folks have strapped an additional bike into the mix.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Again, proceed with caution.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1036/Ken Hiatt", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I don't have any experience with hitch racks holding more than 4 bikes, but I do have an option that you may not have considered.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Forget the hitch rack and buy a small utility trailer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Most hardware stores sell trailer frames like this to which you can add a simple plywood box enclosure ore something more elaborate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks like the market for a 6 bike rack is fairly small, and the racks are expensive ($700+ US).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am sure you could buy a small utility trailer for much less, you would be able to haul at least 6 bikes plus equipment and you would have none of the drawbacks of a hitch rack like: Difficulty accessing the rear doors of the vehicle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Rattle, hum and road shake as the torque/lever forces shake the bikes on the rack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you decide to go the trailer route you can use plans like these to build your own PVC racks to keep the bikes upright.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Keep in mind that hitch racks intended to carry large numbers of bikes (including the North Shore six bike rack) tend to require heavy duty 2\" receivers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Ensure your vehicle is properly equipped.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have room inside the van, you can use one of these to carry a few bikes (perhaps in addition to 4 bikes on a more typical hitch rack): http://www.biketote.com/store/category.php?category=12", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I use the Bike Tote in the back of my Toyota Tacoma pickup to carry two bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It works well -- it holds the bikes securely, and is very easy to install/remove the rack to/from the vehicle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2572/keithmo", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The hitch is not designed to take the kind of forces that 6 bikes can produce.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A trailer sits on the ball and cannot twist the hitch, a rack adds twisting forces in all directions.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The end result (I have a mate who manages a bike shop) can be pretty expensive - like", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the guys who's hitch (with 4 bikes on the rack) failed while being followed by a 30 ton B-Train.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Luckily for him the remaining scrap metal only damaged one truck tire - you would think the cost of replacing the bikes was all you need you worry about..... If you do, you need to strap the top of the rack to the roof of the car, and strap the rack and bikes to limit the twisting forces in the hitch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The addition of 6 bikes on the back of the vehicle will also upset the balance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Most cars have a ball weight limit - some as low as 60kg, few above 100kg.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I imagine your van is on the higher end of the scale, but 6 heavy mountain bikes + rack will be close to 100kg.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(if you are US/UK and think pounds, thats 130lb - 220lb).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may find you are overloading the hitch and voiding warranty / breaking laws / voiding insurance There is a reason most manufacturers stop at 4.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Above 2, they almost always recommend/require straps and heavy duty hitches.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Well, not to encourage spammers, but the Totem Pole is an interesting design.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It does have the advantage that the weight is carried fairly close to the vehicle, so there's less torsion on the hitch -- maybe this isn't sufficient to really allow the weight of 6 bikes to be carried, but it likely handles 4 better than the standard horizontal beam rack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would be a bit concerned about carrying the bike's weight solely from the front wheel, as this design does.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "At the very least you'd want your bikes to have \"lawyer lips\", and on a long ride I'd be concerned about stressing/distorting the wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Plus it's not clear (despite the cavalier statements to the contrary)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that bikes wouldn't bump/rub each other while being jostled on a rough road.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, the rack probably has trouble with kids bikes, since the wheels will not hit the bottom bar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I also have a Sienna.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I put two bikes in upright racks on the roof.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "And, as someone else said, can you put any inside?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That's what I usually do if I don't have people in the third seat; I can put four bikes inside if I arrange them carefully.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4825/Joe Ganley", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack for my Toyota Sienna van? Thank you!", "title": "How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<car-rack>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9481", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4108/Bing" }

[ [ "Most hitch racks are made for a maximum of 4 bikes. There also regulations relating to how much a vehicle can carry. For transporting 6 bikes a small utility trailer would be better. An alternative would be to put some bikes inside the van and the others in the rack. ", "A hitch ball is usually not designed to carry that much weight, and the car may be affected by the extra weight on the back. Overload the hitch may void the warranty and insurance or even be illegal. A utility trailer would be a safer option that could carry more than a hitch. The Totem Pole rack is one possiblity, but supporting all of the weight from the front wheel may damage bikes on longer trips. If you have room, you can put bikes inside the car and on the roof in addition to a standard hitch rack." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A hitch ball is usually not designed to carry that much weight, and the car may be affected by the extra weight on the back. Overload the hitch may void the warranty and insurance or even be illegal. A utility trailer would be a safer option that could carry more than a hitch.", "The Totem Pole rack is one possiblity, but supporting all of the weight from the front wheel may damage bikes on longer trips.", "If you have room, you can put bikes inside the car and on the roof in addition to a standard hitch rack." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Copied this from a BikeRadar article : How to measure your own sit bones Of course the measure you really want is between the centres of your ischial tuberosities – the pointy lower parts of your pelvic bone on either side.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Many bike dealers have a pad that you can sit on to measure this distance, but you can do it at home too.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Take a piece of aluminium kitchen foil and place it on a carpeted stair.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sit on the foil, lean forward a bit to approximate your riding position, then lift your feet.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This should leave a good impression of your rear in the foil, and you can measure between the two points of deepest impression to get your sit bone width.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "‘Narrow’ sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A saddle’s width is measured from edge to edge across the top, and Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "These figures should translate approximately across other ranges, with all other factors taken into account.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5624/Luigi Villafranca", "score": 45 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "None of the above techniques worked for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I made no impression on the corrugated cardboard and the foil just showed a nice big bum-print after sitting a few different surfaces.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I came up with my own technique that's a bit more trial and error but seemed to work for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I got two small erasers, put them on a chair, sat on them and moved them around until they felt like I was sitting on my sit bones.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Then I got up and measured how far apart they were.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24256/eMTB", "score": 22 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I know this is an old thread", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but it's the top one on Google", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I found it helpful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I tried all the methods above", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I didn't have a lot of luck", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so I wanted to share what I tried.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I made some playdough using the first no cook recipe I found on Google (it was fun and doesn't take long).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I then put it between two pieces of cling film and pressed it to about 2\" thick, placed it on a hard surface (my kitchen floor) and put a tea towel over it", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so my legs didn't stick to the cling film.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I then sat on it with my back in roughly my riding position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The impression of my sit bones is really clear, I can see 2 circles (see image) and I measured the distance between the centres.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I tried a few times and it was consistent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40577/Char", "score": 16 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You can do it on any surface which will conform to the shape of your butt, like a piece of memory foam.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Sit on it, with your knees higher than your seat by 4-6 inches, then measure the center of the depressions left.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are different types of memory foam, and some will have a more durable impression than others.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've used this method which worked well: Fill a large size ziploc bag with icing sugar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Icing sugar's fine texture means that it binds together when compressed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is what we want - it will hold the shape of your buttprint after you get up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Close the bag making sure to squeeze out the air.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Place on hard chair.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sit while assuming the degree of forward rotation that you intend to cycle with.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The distance between your sit bones change depending on this rotation. Get up cleanly and measure the distance between the depressions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5632/Emmanuel", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Here's a link to a video that may help you: In this technique all you need is a piece of corrugated cardboard and some chalk.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8001/Tom", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A fresh piece of corrugated cardboard on a hard surface such as a coffee table.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sit down and try to mimic the upper body position you have on your bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your sit bones change position based on how your pelvis is tilted.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your sit bones should crush the corrugated cardboard slightly and leave two indentations.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Measure center to center as best you can.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3088/802bikeguy.com", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is one more method people here aren't talking about...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sit on a bike on a trainer, get into riding position, and have someone you don't mind touching you physically measure your sit bones, in proper riding position.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can feel someone's sit bones on their butt.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They're pretty obvious once you're touching them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32324/CardMechanic", "score": 4 } } ]

{ "question": "Some bike shops have gel pads that you sit on to measure the distance between your sit bones. Is it possible to take this measurement on your own at home, or does this really require special-purpose equipment? [Related question: Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter? ]", "title": "Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<saddle><bike-fit><ergonomics>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9815", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3649/amcnabb" }

[ [ "To measure the distance between your sit bones at home, get two small erasers, put them on a chair, sit on them and move them around until they feel like they are on your sit bones. Another method is to sit on a bike on a trainer, get into riding position, and have someone you don't mind touching you physically measure your sit bones, in proper riding position. Apparently, ‘narrow’ sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm. ", "You can measure your sit bones at a bike dealer or at home with a pad that will conform to the shape of your butt (memory foam, cardboard) or using another way of marking the positioning. A narrow sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm. Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide, measured from edge to edge across the top of the saddle. " ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "You can measure your sit bones at a bike dealer or at home with a pad that will conform to the shape of your butt (memory foam, cardboard) or using another way of marking the positioning.", "A narrow sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm. Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide, measured from edge to edge across the top of the saddle. " ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Some tire makers have a thicker center.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Specialized Armadillo based tires will work wonders.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are a bit heavier, but worth it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Specialized Armadillo Tires", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Im", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "sure there are others, but this is the one I have used the most on my commuter road bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3124/Matt Adams", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Similar to Matt Adams' suggestion, I'd go with Continental Gatorskins or Armidillo or other kevlar lined tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Additionally, I'd suggest that you move to something a bit larger such as 25mm for commuting.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This will provide you with a little more material to fend off glass and other debris.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It'll also be a bit more comfortable of a ride for commuting.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "22mm/23mm tires are mostly used for racing and are usually very soft and prone to picking up and holding on to debris like this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3931/Tha Riddla", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Have you tried SLIME or similar sealant?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Saw this one a while back, way more hard core than slime, but after looking into it I decided Slime works best for me (I only ever get thorns, high PSI will usually prevent most glass from sticking long enough to puncture) - Using a sealant allows you to keep any tire you prefer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cons: can be messy, doesnt prevent snakebites.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3949/BillyNair", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Did you get the right size of liners?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They sell a couple different sizes (you can tell the size by the color).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have 28s", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I didn't have that much trouble putting them in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe narrow tires are more troublesome.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, I've had great experiences with tuffy tire liners.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Combined with Gatorskins, tires are pretty resistant to punctures.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ran over a broken beer bottle, heard it crush under my tires, and still no flat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A little tricky to get them in there, but defintely not something you have to do very often.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably worth the trouble.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Checking their site, you should have the orange liners.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Your first best solution would be bigger tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "22's are really light weight and are intended for racing, not commuting.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Foldable tires are also usually a little thinner more prone to punctures than non-foldable tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So get something non-foldable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bonus: non-foldable tires are usually cheaper.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most companies make tires that are \"puncture-resistant.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "\" They have an extra layer embedded in the rubber that helps prevent flats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You won't actually be able to see it but they'll probably have a cutaway picture on the label.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As someone else suggested, you could use slime.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've never used it, but I know people who swear by it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Panaracer Ribmo PT .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These tires never flat on me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are really thick and tend to be pretty good for fixed gear riders as well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The panaracer T-serve is also a bit lighter, but has good flat protection too.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you are just commuting and dont need much performance wise, you might look into the foam inserts like these: http://bit.ly/L1mKJO", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are a pain to get on and almost impossible to get off", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I had to cut my tire to get it off)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but they never get flats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The biggest problem is that I need my tires to be 85", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "+ psi and I have not found any to replicate over 65.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another problem some say is that if you hit a pothole that the impact goes directly into your rims, with weak rims that would be a problem, but I have triple walls.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But like I said, I would only use these on commuter bikes rather than performance bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3949/BillyNair", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I used to get a lot of punctures on my 22mm tires riding to work every day in boston. All of the punctures were from small pieces glass. After a few weeks of almost weekly flats i got tuffy tire liners and now i no longer get flats. Question: Is there some other better solution then tire liners because they were really difficult to put in?", "title": "avoiding punctures in 22mm tires", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire><puncture>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9840", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4243/mkoryak" }

[ [ "The best solution for frequent punctures is not to use 22 inch tires. 22 inch tires are usually used for racing and are very soft and prone to picking up and holding debris. A 25 inch is more suitable for commuting. Most companies make tires that are \"puncture-resistant. Specialized Armadillo based tires work wonders. Furthermore, Tuffy tire liners are recommended as is SLIME sealant.", "Thin, foldable and lightweight road tyres are usually soft and liable to pick up debris, so a thicker rigid tyre might be more suitable for commuting. Some tyres have a thicker centre or have a puncture resistant lining. The linings you used are effective, and your difficulty fitting them may be due to using the wrong size for your tyre. Slime is another possible solution." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Thin, foldable and lightweight road tyres are usually soft and liable to pick up debris, so a thicker rigid tyre might be more suitable for commuting.", "Some tyres have a thicker centre or have a puncture resistant lining. The linings you used are effective, and your difficulty fitting them may be due to using the wrong size for your tyre. Slime is another possible solution." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I use a sort of wave, raising my hand but with no movement in it (so not a 'Hey buddy' or 'I need help' side to side movement)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": ".... it works on my bicycle, on my motorcycle, and while driving a vehicle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's got somewhat of a dual purpose: acknowledgement that I did something wrong, and/or", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "'thanks for letting me in' gratitude gesture.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The motorcycle I find a very odd case of this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's 95% not me giving the gesture, but receiving it after being cut off, not seen, turned in front of, etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "People are in general not interested in showing any rage and are quick to apologize when I'm on one, even if I'm not wearing the armored jacket and helmet.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't get even half this respect in vehicles or bicycles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That was a side note that I've found interesting, but the point is that it's the same gesture I seem to get from many other people.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's no side/side or waving motion, just a hand up, fingers together, \"", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Thanks/Sorry\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3777/Ehryk", "score": 41 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have seen and used a sheepish wave and a shoulder shrug or head bow, never had someone try to beat me up after that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3949/BillyNair", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I wave if I can", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "but sometimes that's not possible because I'm controlling the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I always give them a look of apology and say \"sorry\" even though they can't hear me.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I slightly exaggerate the look and the lip movements so that I can be sure that they see it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And most people can read lips well enough to pick up \"sorry\" even across an intersection.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I usually get a wave back, so I know it works most of the time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In Hawaii, it's common for drivers (and cyclists, I suppose) to use the shaka to communicate an apology on the road: To folks who know about it, the sign carries the same range of positive meanings as Aloha and should be taken as a friendly gesture.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "While it doesn't specifically communicate apology, the sign is used as a relaxed greeting, which could diffuse a hostile situation.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As far as I know, the sign doesn't resemble any rude gestures.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As always, be sure to check with a local for the meaning of any hand signals used in an unfamiliar culture!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4405/Jon Ericson", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Short answer - there's no widely recognized hand gesture for", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm sorry .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could try the American Sign Language for sorry :", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not sure how likely it is that this will be understood by the other person though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have thought about this a lot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "What usually works for me is raising the left hand palm in and fingers up and covering my ear and lowering the head slightly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "a gesture of submission, the covering of the ear \"please don't yell at me for my mistake\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then raising palm upward and forward in a surrender mode.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am sorry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13041/Carl Lindenman", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If they beep, you can just give a thumbs-up as if to say \"yeah, that was justified\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14375/BSO rider", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Complementing @BSO rider response: here in Brazil a simple \"thumbs up\" sign means that you agree with the driver that's not their fault", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "and you just mean say sorry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another way is raise your hand and make a face expression like \"it's my fault\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This works too, like this:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5455/Marcelo Rodrigo", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm not so sure about", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"I'm sorry\" , but the gesture for the related \"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm sorry for you\" is simply to pass hundreds of cars that are stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're sorry frequently, it means you have some kind of problem that causes you to carry out actions that you didn't plan, or which have consequences that you didn't forsee.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fix that problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do things deliberately and own them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Correctly predict their results and own them also.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Consequently, don't be sorry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then when you're not sorry, you don't require any gesture to express it: you just do in order to achieve a result, the result occurs, and you don't regret anything.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you're on your bike mingling with traffic, you can't afford to be taking unintentional actions, or poorly predicting the results of intentional actions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"I'm sorry\" won't cut it when there are serious negative consequences.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "What does \"I'm sorry\" really mean in traffic?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually this: \"I regret that someone else had to take an action to avert a disaster that would otherwise have been caused by what I did.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's vastly more important not to have this occur than to have a well researched and rehearsed gesture for the accompanying sentiment of regret.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5088/Kaz", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Thinking about it, and considering that non-verbal, single-handed signal is preferred, I think that: Touching your head with the fingertips, above and behind the ear; Shrugging the shoulders and; Raising the eyebrows;", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In sort of a \"oops, what have I done!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So sorry!\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "attitude, might be very well interpreted/understood by drivers, and probably dissolve any aggressive behaviour (if any) on his/her part.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I accidentally cut someone off today.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He looked at me as he passed me, and I immediately and instinctively just raised my left arm, bent at the elbow, fingers straight up and together, and mouthed \"I'm sorry.\"", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I was so surprised by my automatic response that I googled \"hand gesture for", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm sorry\" and found this listing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I wonder if anyone else has just done that automatically, not that we intentionally cut people off!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25187/Anne", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I usually signal \"turn left\" and \"turn right\" and \"pass me by, take point\". However, there is one more situation that happens to me often and I do not know a widely accepted gesture to convey my thoughts. How do I express that \"I am sorry.\" to a car driver near me (car driver == probably won't hear me, so a hand gesture is needed). As in \"I cut you off, sorry man!\".", "title": "What is the hand gesture for \"I'm sorry\"?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<signals><city><commuter>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10083", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac" }

[ [ "There is no official gesture used among cyclists to mean sorry. Various hand gestures are used. These include hand up without waving, a sheepish wave, thunbs up in Brazil, the Shaka in Hawaii, and touching your head with your finger tips. ", "Possible signals vary widely and are not universally recognised. These could include holding an open palm up, the shaka sign, shrugging your shoulders, mouthing \"sorry\", touching your forehead or giving a thumbs up to agree with someone using a horn. If this situation often comes up where you need to apologise, it could be better to improve your road awareness and decision-making." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Possible signals vary widely and are not universally recognised. These could include holding an open palm up, the shaka sign, shrugging your shoulders, mouthing \"sorry\", touching your forehead or giving a thumbs up to agree with someone using a horn.", "If this situation often comes up where you need to apologise, it could be better to improve your road awareness and decision-making." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes there is one main trick, and some regular skills.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trick is: if you LOWER THE TIRE PRESSURE, any tire will float over sand like magic.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It should not be so underinflated as to allow easy pinch flats, but the lower the pressure, the more marked the floating effect.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are just two limitations:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the tire is skinny (low volume)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it might not be possible to have a pressure level that allows flotation AND safe riding over rough terrain on other trail sections;", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's not possible to adjust tire pressure \"on the fly\" ;o)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if you know you're having a long stretch of soft terrain, it's possible to have a good trade-off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anyway, huge tires (2.3 +) are perfect for that (watch this Surly Pugsley video).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, knobby doesn't help that much, sometimes slicks are better; they cause less shearing of the sand and rob you of less kinetic energy.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now the skills are mostly help maintain speed and direction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Speed:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "not so fast as to suddenly throw you over the bars in case of loss of control, not so slow that your rear wheel loses traction in order to maintain or recover speed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Direction:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "plan ahead the smoothest possible trajectory, and point your front wheel firmly along that trajectory.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Avoid wobbling on the pedals, major gear changes, and specially avoid sharp turns, because there is a critical steering angle above which the front tire skids sideways and the bike becomes unstable, making it almost impossible to regain control in some cases (of course the more skill one has, the more one can recover from).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hope that helps and...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "PRACTICE!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Few things can be more fun than that!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have personally ridden and raced on many sandy courses and trails (e.g. Moab) and the best advice is to shift your weight back, relax and think about guiding rather than steering the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will never be able to ride in a perfectly straight line, so get over it or avoid sand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Rather you need to let the bike move and shift around under you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will need to stay loose and relaxed while making sure to have a firm grip.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can't force the bike or it will skid out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Rather your job is to look ahead and guide the bike in the general direction you want to go.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You also need to avoid sudden jarring movements.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have ridden in dry snow, the feeling is quite similar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know some answers said avoid excessive speed (which is good advice for riders new to sand)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I will say it is also possible to scream along on sand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have hit deep and long sandy sections at full speed before (e.g. 50km/hr) and been fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sure the bike moved around a bit, but as long as I don't panic (and tighten up), kept my weight back and guided the bike I was fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are riding uphill or on the flats try to keep steady power on the pedals as you have less traction to work with.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some find a faster or slower pedal cadence easier - try both and take your pick.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also make sure to conserve momentum, if you slow down to much you won't be going anywhere.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally, don't get discouraged, riding on sand is a learned skill and always work to Lastly, there are also technical aspects (e.g. tire pressure) that have already been covered (heltonbiker)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/Rider_X", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have plenty of experiance in insanely soft sand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Before you leave : 29er, wide tyres, low pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "BUT Low preasure costs when you get back onto hard stuff, as do insanely wide tyres.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I set the bike up to go well on the hard stuff, and pay the price on the soft sections.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the track : Riding style is Weight Back, Very high cadence, great balance and steer with weight shifts rather than handlebar movement.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It VERY quickly becomes faster, easier and more efficent to dismount and run/carry bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The only reason to ride soft sand to prove you can and get fit fast.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the tracks are mostly soft sand (and you are like me - out to have fun), find better tracks, as it's not much fun after the novelty wears off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One big advantage, it's a soft landing when it all goes wrong", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Riding on sand is pretty easy once you get the hang of it, keep yourself heavy on the front of the bike through technical dh sections and over the back on a low gear on climbs, when riding on sand around corners (especially deep sandy sections) avoid leaning into the corners too much and don't be afraid to counter steer with the bars, just don't do it too quick or you will be jerked off, try not to ride the brakes too much especially when going around corners or you could easily get bogged, stay loose and ride the smoothest, straightest line.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32720/Lachlan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Fatter tires and stand up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you stay seated, the front tire will not be able to carry its weight and basically float, making it really hard to control.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Growing up on the beach in Hawaii, I have had my fair share of riding in sand and found that the wet sand that the ocean just saturated is 30 times easier to ride on than dry sand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3949/BillyNair", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I have been trying to ride on some trials that have very soft sand and especially agitated by ATVs. When I hit a soft patch my front tire pulls in one direction and I freak out a little. I cannot seem to plow through it and ultimately just end up moving slower and slower, which than leads to a full stop. Is there some trick or style to riding on these trails?", "title": "What is the trick to riding on sand?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><technique><riding-position>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10262", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3380/Carson Reinke" }

[ [ "The trick is: if you LOWER THE TIRE PRESSURE, any tire will float over sand like magic. That said, big wide tires are better. With regard to riding style, it is beter to sit back, relax and guide the bike rather than steer it. Riding on sand is pretty easy once you get the hang of it, keep yourself heavy on the front of the bike through technical dh sections and over the back on a low gear on climbs, when riding on sand around corners (especially deep sandy sections) avoid leaning into the corners too much and don't be afraid to counter steer with the bars, just don't do it too quick or you will be jerked off, try not to ride the brakes too much especially when going around corners or you could easily get bogged, stay loose and ride the smoothest, straightest line.", "A lower tyre pressure and thicker tyres will help the tyre to 'float' over sand. Keep a steady cadence without sharp changes in speed or direction. Keep your weight back and stay loose and relaxed. Use your weight to steer, not the handlebars. Plan ahead, keep a smooth, straight line and gently guide the bike. Riding on sand is a learned skill, so keep practising and get used to the surface." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A lower tyre pressure and thicker tyres will help the tyre to 'float' over sand.", "Keep a steady cadence without sharp changes in speed or direction. Keep your weight back and stay loose and relaxed. Use your weight to steer, not the handlebars. Plan ahead, keep a smooth, straight line and gently guide the bike.", "Riding on sand is a learned skill, so keep practising and get used to the surface." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "http://www.landriderbikes.com", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They were very heavily advertised several years ago but currently they seem to show up more on craigslist than on TV.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have ridden one - it used weights thrown out by centrifugal force and springs to move the derailleur in and out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Horrible is all I can say.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe it was me not being used to it, but things like not being in the gear you left it in, and less than smooth changes - which you have not idea when they are going to happen, especially under power.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The only redeeming feature was it was a borrowed bike I could give back at the end of the weekend holiday.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, for cruising around a by someone who otherwise would not ride, and only on flat, even ground), its would do the job.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Trek had a bicycle a few years ago named \"Lime\" which had 3 speed automatic gearing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't think it sold well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It used a gearing system called \"Coasting\" that was created by Shimano and actually controlled by a computer chip from signals from the front hub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "\"A dynamo is fitted on the front hub that gauges the revolutions of the wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It sends this information to a computer chip housed near the pedals on most of the bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "From there, the chip, which controls the planetary gears located on the back hub, determines whether to shift up or down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "All the chip needs to make its determination is for a rider to pedal four or five times, according to Shannon Bryant, Coasting project coordinator for Shimano.\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2953/Glenn Gervais", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There's the Nuvinci Harmony .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It uses the Nuvinci N360 CVP hub, which is a continuously variable transmission , meaning there are no shift points.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The Harmony controller changes the ratio based on cadence, or it can be adjusted manually.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5669/David Holdeman", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There have been attempts over the years, but never particularly successful.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I recall used a 5-speed rear hub that was shifted by weights on the spokes, similar to a centrifugal governor.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I expect that, with the new electric shifters, there will be some new attempts at it in the next year or two.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With a computer it should be possible to be reasonably \"smart\", especially if mated to some sort of torque meter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I know Im a little late for this posting", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but this is the first time I came across such question.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I do own a Trek Lime, purchased back in 2007.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is a fully automatic bicycle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It has 3 speeds a front hub dynamo (speed sensor), a shifter module-solenoid (computer) under the center frame, and the 3 speed auto-shifter hub in the rear wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As far as I know there has always been autoshifting bikes out there, they're rare and not very cheap, but a joy to ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20836/Raul Huerta", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As the Nuvinci system has been mentioned in other answers, I'll mention one more.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "SRAM makes the Automatix hub now.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a 2 speed system (ratios 1:1, 1:1.37) with a centrifugal clutch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's no manual shifting possible and no cables involved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Check out the new Autobike http://www.autobike.tv .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It uses a CVT.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8314/user8314", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have one with an automatic, its a six speed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It works really well actually, you just pedal nice and it does a real nice up/down shift in the gears; its not a hard riding bike, it's a nice causal ride, great for me and the dog, but it will up shift and down shift on its own.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It seems to be an older bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I picked it up at a garage sale for ten bucks; it has 3 weights on the back wheel that have the name dad on the and small piece of plastic the size of a dime that rides in a groove.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I'm not riding it wont shift.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The only stickers on the bike are ones that say metro and automatic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have searched the web for about three years and find nothing of the likes of it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25124/robert", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Not really, the one from Nu Vinci is closest but Has manual shift", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the weight factor is an issue.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The major problem in developing is the input power is too low for a fully mechanical system to respond smoothly and if you include electronics it becomes too complex.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I believe some solution is possible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13866/Sanjoy Nundy", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I don't know much about it and it doesn't seem to be publicly available yet", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but Bioshift is the most recent variant I know of.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It basically seems to be an extension for Di2 electronic shifting.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://www.baronbiosys.com/", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/15828/David Triebe", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Has anyone ever designed or manufactured an automatic transmission (or automatic shifter?) for cycling? I imagine such a device would automatically change the gearing to allow the rider to maintain constant cadence or constant torque on the cranks. I used to daydream about the existence of such a system many years ago when riding my first (battered, second hand) racer as it was such an ordeal to change gears.", "title": "Is there such thing as an automatic transmission for bikes?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<derailleur><drivetrain><shifting><cadence>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10381", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4537/Ken" }

[ [ "There are a number of bikes on the market with automatic gear. Trek, Shimano, SRAM are some of the companies that make them. Real cycling enthusiasts do not seem to be terrible keen on them. However, for people who would otherwise not cycle, they are a great idea. They are most suited to casual riding, on flat ground but are not really suited to hard riding. ", "There are several automatic gear systems that use mechanical or electronic shifting. Mechanical options can be difficult to get used to and may change gears suddenly at unexpected times, while electronic shifting can be overly complex. They have never been particularly successful commercially, but can be used with slower bikes for cruising." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "There are several automatic gear systems that use mechanical or electronic shifting. They have never been particularly popular, but can be used with slower bikes for cruising.", "Mechanical options can be difficult to get used to and may change gears suddenly at unexpected times, while electronic shifting can be overly complex. " ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "In \" Epidemiology of bicycle injuries and risk factors for serious injury \" by Frederick P Rivara, Diane C Thompson, and Robert S Thompson, the authors gave a questionnaire to 3,390 bicycle riders who had attended a hospital emergency department in the Seattle area.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They found that cyclists involved in a crash at a speed greater than 15 miles per hour were 1.4 times as likely to have a \"severe\" injury (defined as an injury severity score greater than 8) as cyclists involved in a crash at a speed of 15 miles per hour or less.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The 95% confidence interval was 1.0 to 1.9.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Caveats: 1.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It seems strange to me that the authors only reported odds ratios, when they apparently had the data to compute effect sizes too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "2.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The fast cyclists differ systematically from the slower cyclists: the odds ratio fell to 1.2 when other factors in the study were controlled for.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "3.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's Rivara, Thompson and Thompson.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/756/Gareth Rees", "score": 19 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As far as I know, in any vehicle, there is a direct relationship between speed and severity, statistically speaking, with \"lots\" of studies showing that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This also applies to being hit, or front-to-front crashes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's even the term \"high-energy-trauma\", applied by health professionals to injuries involving high energies, for example high kinetic energies.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course there are confounding factors: are fast riders (professional riders?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "more skilled?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Are fast racing events the place for a more \"focused\" riding?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do they fall less, or are someow more prepared to fall?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anyway, I cannot see how a SLOWER fall could hurt MORE than a fast one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a matter of kinetic energy, speed of response of human motor coordination, even common sense.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Although I have not evidence to bring about, I hope this helps someway.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It is totally dependent on the impact.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you run into a wall you want to be going slower.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you hit a bump and are launched off your bike or jump off a cliff you want to be going faster.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't know physics well enough to explain it that way", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I do ride a lot of street (jumping down stairs, off roofs, etc.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so I will explain it how I know you want to land in that sense.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Think about the angle of impact jumping off a loading dock, if you drop going at a slow speed you will impact the ground almost at a 90 degree angle, your body will need to absorb almost all the impact (on a non-suspension bike).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you go faster you will impact the ground at say 45 degrees, you will feel a lot less impact on your body.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Taking that to the tour de france (or crashing in general, even on a jump), if you roll rather than slide, your impact on the ground will be a lot less at higher speeds, your chance of twisting a leg or whatever is less because your limb doesn't have time to get planted.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It might help to watch some parkour, they will roll out of a jump because they are trying to transfer the impact at an angle against the ground rather than absorbing an impact perpendicular to the ground.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3949/BillyNair", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I think there is likely no clear answer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The points go both ways.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Yes at speed there is the ability to roll.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But also the risk of trauma with a stationary object.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be it an object or the ground.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Humans are soft and squishy with fragile bones compared to concrete and asphalt, rocks or trees.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3124/Matt Adams", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Those who can and do ride at higher speeds are generally fitter, often younger, and more able to bounce back from an injury.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "These speedy types have learned to be situationally aware, and are more alert to their surroundings and the proximity of obstacles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When I noticed this when riding quite fast on an ebike...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I was looking around a lot more and riding much more defensively so", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if an obstruction were to appear, I already knew where my runout spaces were.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Having had one significant-speed whoopsie myself that was caught on camera, I can say that perception of time really does slow down when its all going badly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps thinking \"this is gonna hurt\" is the key.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I have heard that the severity of injuries tend to decrease while riding a road bike at high speed. An instance of high speed would be like those in the Tour de France. The reasoning behind this idea is \"enough\" speed allows the cyclist to \"roll\" upon landing thus decreasing the chance of breaking bones for example. This seems contrary to my basic knowledge of physics and momentum, so, is it true?", "title": "Do higher speed crashes result in less serious injuries.", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<road-bike><speed><injury>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10555", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4658/polygod" }

[ [ "Studies show that cyclists involved in crashes at high speed are more likely to have serious injuries than those involved in crashes at a slower speed. However, people who ride at higher speed tend to be fitter and more able to bounce back from an injury. Moreover, the type of impact makes a differenceç if you hit a wall, you want to be going slowerò if you hit a bump and get launched off the bike you want to be going faster as you will hit the ground at a better angle.", "Academic studies have shown a positive correlation between speed and severity of injury on bikes, and this is true with other vehicles too. However, faster accidents may be correlated with fitter and younger riders who are more aware of their surroundings and able to respond to risks and falls, as well as being able to recover quicker. Hitting a stationary object will be worse at speed, while falling off at speed might deflect the force sideways." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ false ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Academic studies have shown a positive correlation between speed and severity of injury on bikes, and this is true with other vehicles too. However, faster accidents may be correlated with fitter and younger riders who are more aware of their surroundings and able to respond to risks and falls, as well as being able to recover quicker.", "Types of accidents may affect the influence of speed. Hitting a stationary object will be worse at speed, while falling off at speed might deflect the force sideways." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The 3 foot law is an example of a law that exists mostly to create awareness rather than having some direct practical function.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This law is rarely enforced by itself.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Can anyone cite an instance where a motorist was ticketed for passing in under three feet (and not ticketed for anything else)?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The 3-foot law is, AFAIK, typically enforced as a supplement to some other violation such as failure to yield or reckless driving.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But more than anything else, the intent is to create some level of awareness in motorists about how to deal with cyclists.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If motorists know it is a law, most will make an effort to abide by the law.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A quick google search reveals that, as of this year, 20 states in the USA have this law.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can view a map depicting the status of this law in the United States here: http://www.3feetplease.com/important-stuff", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It seems to me that in the last 10 years or so, motorists have been getting much better than in the past about getting along with bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It could be the marked lanes/signage, or perhaps things like the 3-foot law, but I have noticed a LOT LESS \"entitlement-to-the-road\" behavior from motorists than in the 1990's and earlier.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1998/Angelo", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Three feet just seems (to legislators) like a reasonable number (it's 1 meter in the UK", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "and I think most of Europe).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And I know it's the law in Minnesota.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't know about any other states.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Would a different number make more sense?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably not.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Less would be out-and-out dangerous, and more would create the situation where the bike (in theory) blocks traffic in too many cases (and hence would be ignored even more than the current law).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Pennsylvania's got a new four-foot law.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It was recently enforced after an attempted hit-and-run in Bethlehem, PA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7AVC1YCcO0).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I should clarify that it was a hit-and-attempted-run, as other motorists pinned the driver in to prevent him from running).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3161/Jim Kiley", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "France has such a law (1 metre in cities, 1.5 metres in the country).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That safety margin is also applicable to passing pedestrians and animals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "France (and, \"much of Europe\") also has a \"strict liability law\" ( ref and ref ), IOW if there's an accident", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then it's up to the car-driver to prove that they're not negligent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Five feet seems to be a popular variant of the 3-feet law.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I suspect that's because if you tell people five, maybe they will give three.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But five has the benefit of making it cleaer that the car needs to partially cross over to the other lane instead of trying to squeeze by without crossing the line.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2808/JKP", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The 3-Foot Law passed a few years back has brought much more awareness with motorists and cyclists alike here in CA.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have noticed greater compliance here in Midtown Sacramento where one motorist will yield to a bicyclist and whoever is behind them in the following car will follow suit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "How other cities/neighborhoods have reacted is beyond my reach, since I only ride in Sacramento, however, my best guess would be motorists are much more aware of the need to \"share the road\" there as well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It should be noted", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "when the law passed, there was significant backlash from the \"entitled motorists\" among us.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This lasted for at least a year.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Gradually, however, at least here in Midtown, I've witnessed improvement in the relationship between cyclists and motorists alike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A reduction in the speed of both is critical for this to work, and that has happened with the advent of protected bike lanes, bicycling education classes sponsored by the City of Sacramento and Sacramento Area Bicycle Advocates (SABA), and a better appreciation of the role of bicyclists in the area.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "We're hopeful for continued change.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/44227/Anne Shuck", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Some states seem to have something called the 3 foot law to keep cars away from cyclists. Why 3 feet? Which states in the USA have it?", "title": "What is the \"3 foot law\" and which US states have it?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<legal><us>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11037", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1693/WireGuy" }

[ [ "The 3 foot law is not only found in the US. There is the 1 meter law in both the UK and France. The idea is to make motorists more aware of sharing the road with cyclists. It is rarely enforced on its own but may be added to other driving offences like reckless driving. 20 states currently have the 3 foot law, including Pennsylvania and California. There is a website http://www.3feetplease.com/important-stuff listing all the states that implement this law. In Sacramento, at least, it appears to have had a beneficial effect on driver behavior, although when it was first introduced there was a backlash from motorists.", "The three foot law is in force in 20 states, and many states and countries set similar or greater distances, sometimes depending on the type of road. Three feet is about one metre, and provides an easily understood safe distance without overly restricting traffic. Usually it is not enforced by itself, but rather as a supplement to another violation. Making this distance the law increases awareness of the necessary clearance and improves driver behaviour, and several answers note a greater willingness to share the road since the law came into force." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "The three foot law is in force in 20 states, and many states and countries set similar or greater distances, sometimes depending on the type of road. Three feet is about one metre, and provides an easily understood safe distance without overly restricting traffic. Usually it is not enforced by itself, but rather as a supplement to another violation. It also serves to raise awareness of necessary clearance.", "Making this distance the law increases awareness and improves driver behaviour, and several answers note a greater willingness to share the road since the law came into force." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "1x9 setups are more common on a mountain bike or commuter bike setup with rapidfire shifters than a drop bar setup.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, due to a lack of front derailleur they can have chain jump issues due to the effect of the rear derailleur on the chainline.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This has to be compensated for, often with a chain guard on the outer side and jump stop on the inner side of the front chainring.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's also a bit weirder to have 2 STI brifters and only have one of them for shifting on a road / cross bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Especially when brifters cost a lot of money.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most groupsets come with all the drivetrain and shifting gear for a 2x9 or 2x10 setup.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So, they install it on the bikes as a set, It would probably be cost prohibitive for manufacturers to break up the groupset and they would probably have to pay for extra parts (like a chain guard) to make it work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are however several bikes on the market with a single front chainring and an internally geared rear hub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "These bikes don't suffer the downfalls of having to deal with chain jumps as much as bikes with derailleurs since the chainline stays consistent (and hopefully releativly straight).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "UPDATE:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Modern mountain bikes and some cyclocross bikes have been switching to 1x drivetrains as a standard drivetrain option.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "New technology, clutch rear derailleurs, narrow wide chainrings (there are several variations), and wider range rear cassettes (up to 44t) have made it so you can have a wider gear range and get rid of the extra chain retention gear that you used to need for this setup.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "SRAM and Shimano both sell 1x drivetrain groupsets and now some frame manufacturers are dropping support for front derailleurs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There are plenty of bikes available with a single chainring.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, only certain types of bicycles come with single chainrings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "People generally buy according to their needs, and products are generally offered in accordance with demand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The two main categories of bikes that often come with a single chainring are comfort/city bikes and track/single-speed bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Comfort bikes such as beach cruisers often have coaster brakes, chain guards, and other features to minimize the amount of maintenance required.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Track bikes were originally designed for racing at velodromes, but they have developed a broader appeal due to trendiness and low maintenance requirements.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand, road bikes and mountain bikes generally have a wide range of gears to allow a wide range of speeds.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If they came with only a single chainring, they would not meet the needs of most cyclists, so they wouldn't be bought.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In short, there are plenty of bicycles with single chainrings, and they tend to be bikes that are designed to be low maintenance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Bikes designed for performance usually come with a wide range of gears.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3649/amcnabb", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I suspect marketing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "More is always better.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you were naive to bikes and you saw two derailleur bikes for $499: One with 9 gears (1 x 9) or one with 27 gears (3 x 9).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which do you think they will choose?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In western society, more is always and without question better.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The single chainring bike might have better components (due to being simpler at the same price point), but people will fixate on the number of gears.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, I have noticed quite a few 8 speed hub internal hub bikes on the market now.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Single chain ring with essentially the same number of gears as a single chainring derailleur bike, but they can do a marketing end run around the issue of number of gears with a different sell, namely the reduced maintenance and simplicity associated with an internal hub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Aside - I will avoid any discussion of whether or not internal hubs are simpler and lower maintenance, just that this is the common \"knowledge\" about internal hub bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "UPDATE", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "well the market forces have swung and now many high end bikes are switching to 1x (11 to 13 speed cassettes make this feasible), so more 1x are now finding their way to lower end bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/Rider_X", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A wide range of gears on the rear is 11 T to 34 T which lets you vary your mechanical advantage by about 310% on a bike with only a rear derailleur .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The front derailleur is (compared to the rear derailleur) a simple piece of equipment that greatly increases your ability to go fast on the flats while climbing comfortably.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Adding a front crankset that goes from 24 T to 52 T lets you vary your mechanical advantage by ((52/11) / (24/34)) or 670% with both derailleurs between large-front/small-rear and small-front/large-rear.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(The actual mechanical advantage has to take into account the ratio between the pedal circle circumference and the drive-wheel circumference, but I'm dividing mechanical advantages here so that constant divides out.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bikes with only a front derailleur aren't made today because they don't pick up the slack in the chain, though I've heard that early model chained bikes were often ridden with slack chains.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4126/Mike Samuel", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In case of road bikes, back in 2012 (when question was asked), there was simply no option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There was some cyclocross setup but didn't really sell in this market.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Road single chainring group set only available in 2015 by SRAM.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just switched to their 1x11 (48t 11-36) from 2x10 (50/36 11-26).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hardly miss the closer ratio of the 2x10 or top speed, which probably would be important if you race.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I really appreciate the easier effort needed to clean bottom bracket area.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can see that 1x12 setup is coming, so expect to see more people switch from double chainrings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And then we'll probably can have single chainring specific frames, i.e. without the extra cable stops, hole and routing for front derailleur.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3042/imel96", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Bikes with two or three chainrings are the norm, and then there are singlespeeds, but except for kids' bikes, you see almost no stock bikes with a single chainring in front but a cassette and derailleur in the back. It seems like for a lot of people this would be a nice balance with respect to simplicity, weight, maintenance, so why are there so few?", "title": "Why are there almost no bikes with a single chainring?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<gears><chainring><drivetrain>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11114", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4825/Joe Ganley" }

[ [ "There are plenty of bikes available with a single chainring. However, only certain types of bicycles come with single chainrings. The two main categories of bikes that often come with a single chainring are comfort/city bikes and track/single-speed bikes. Comfort bikes such as beach cruisers often have coaster brakes, chain guards, and other features to minimize the amount of maintenance required. On the other hand, road bikes and mountain bikes generally have a wide range of gears to allow a wide range of speeds. However, more bikes are appearing on the market with a single chain ring and they are generally being marketed for the reduced maintenance and simplicity associated with an internal hub. ", "Setups without front derailleurs are common on bikes designed to be low maintenance, especially with hub gears. On performance bikes, the second gear greatly increases the range and reduces the angle between the front and back chainring on high and low gears. However, new technology allows a wider range and more chainrings, allowing manufacturers to use a single front chainring. While many people assume that more gears are automatically better, the popularity of hub gears in city bikes and the introduction of 11 to 13 speed cassettes is changing the market in this regard." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Setups without front derailleurs are common on bikes designed to be low maintenance, especially with hub gears. On performance bikes, the second gear greatly increases the range and reduces the angle between the front and back chainring on high and low gears. However, new technology allows a wider range and more chainrings, allowing manufacturers to use a single front chainring.", "While many people assume that more gears are automatically better, the popularity of hub gears in city bikes and the introduction of 11 to 13 speed cassettes is changing the market in this regard." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "On old steel bikes a good reason would be to prevent the seatpost from rusting onto the frame, thus preventing saddle height adjustment.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "More recently I understand from my LBS that you do it to prevent water from seeping into the frame along the (imperfectly sealed) seatpost.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Depending on your frame you could end up carrying one or more kilo's of water with you if you have a lot of rainy rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/424/jilles de wit", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I present you with evidence that seatposts can, in fact, seize ! Alloy and steel seatposts are both perfectly capable of seizing to both alloy and steel frames.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "IIRC, carbon seatpost/frame combinations may need carbon assembly paste for almost the opposite reason: to increase friction and reduce the torque required for a good grip.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3311/Useless", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In addition to the seizure problem that others have mentioned, greasing the seatpost also prevents another problem: creaks.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I once spent weeks chasing down a creak that I initially thought was coming from the crank or bottom bracket.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After disassembling and reassembling all that stuff, then tightening almost every single bolt on the bike, someone suggested that the creak could be coming from the seatpost rubbing inside of the seat tube", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I should grease it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bingo!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Problem solved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Depends: Frame and post material matters.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With metal, bonding or rust can occur Carbon posts can need the friction because they tend to be a smoother material", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There can be imperfections that are too small for us to notice, so the grease can help to fill the gap for the seatpost retention to work", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2735/OMG Ponies", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "That bit of grease on the seat post into the seat tube will help \"seal\" the seat tube from getting any moisture into the bike frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It may also keep the seat post from seizing in the seat tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It does happen if the seat isn't moved for years.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "When I bought a new bike my LBS put grease on the part of the seatpost that inserts into the frame. Why is this? Surely it can't seize?", "title": "Why did the bike shop put grease on my seatpost?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<seatpost>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11212", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3140/Mark W" }

[ [ "For steel bikes the seat post is greased for two reasons mainly. First to stop the seat post from rusting onto the frame. Second to act as a sealant and prevent any moisture getting into the frame. Carbon seat posts, on the other hand, need the grease to create friction as they are so smooth. Furthermore, the grease also stops the seat from creaking.", "Steel seatposts can rust onto the frame, so grease can prevent rust and stop moisture from entering the frame, while filling in slight imperfections that can impede seatpost retention. Grease also prevents seatposts from creaking. Carbon bikes may need assembly paste to increase friction and grip." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Steel seatposts can rust onto the frame, so grease can prevent rust and stop moisture from entering the frame, while filling in slight imperfections that can impede seatpost retention. Grease also prevents seatposts from creaking.", "Carbon bikes may need assembly paste to increase friction and grip." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Grab some of the disinfecting wipes in the round containers that you normally use for kitchen counters, etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I like the Clorox brand in the yellow", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Lemon Fresh!).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wrap around bars and squeeze a bit as you twist/rotate in the same direction as the wrap.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With cork based wrap this is fairly effective.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With some of the slicker surfaced wraps (Lizard, etc), it's downright awesome.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you start cleaning with the wipes on a regular schedule your wrap will get even cleaner over time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1036/Ken Hiatt", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use a citrus degreaser and its great.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I clean my entire bike with it, but it gets the sweat and oils off the tape", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so the dirt stops sticking.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3124/Matt Adams", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use a cleaning product called Simple Green.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's bio-degradable ( good for the environment ) and really does a complete cleaning job!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can mix it at different strengths from a 1/2 gallon or 1 gallon refill size.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It comes in a spray bottle initially.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use it to clean my bicycle rather than soap and water.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is safe to use and doesn't harm the paint.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just spray it on the bike or a soft cloth, and wipe the grease and dirt/dust off easily.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No need to rinse the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It should gently remove the dirt/sweat from your handlebar tape.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the grips are cork, use just a little Simple Green on a soft cloth and wipe gently and remove from the tape.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't allow the Simple Green to stay on the tape for an extended period ( which is determined by the strength you mix the Simple Green ).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Same goes for wiping the bike using Simple Green.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't allow it to dry on the paint.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wipe it on and with a dampened second cloth, wipe it off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll find more uses for Simple Green besides your bike!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're married, better buy two bottles so your spouse can have their own bottle!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Dishwashing liquid and a small amount of baking soda, warm water, on an old sock or rag.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wipe with damp rag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Clean and bright.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most of the dirt on my handlebar tape is from cleaning debris from tires while cycling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25538/user25538", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've used Cif or Jif as it used to be called.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Its a cream bathroom and kitchen surface cleaner.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Works wonders.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/16979/OraNob", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've never gone wrong cleaning wraps using a soapy rag and elbow grease.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use an old bit of towel and dish soap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This has done a great job cleaning up thoroughly bike-greased and sweat-upon wraps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "baby wipes all day son - best, cheapest option to rim to rim, and you can even get them in organic!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've even used coconut oil as an on the spot bike lube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/21052/face", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I have bought not so long ago (about two month) brand new and the shiny white from my handle tap have become pretty dirty: I am tempted to just change the tape to another color - that would be problem solved for me - but that would basically be a dirty hack. How can I clean the white tape and remove the dirt?", "title": "How to clean white handlebar tape?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<cleaning><handlebar-tape>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11216", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1067/Chmouel Boudjnah" }

[ [ "Various products are recommended for cleaning handlebar wrap. These include disinfecting wipes, baby wipes, citrus degreaser, Simple Green, dishwashing liquid with baking soda and Cif.", "Regular cleaning with cleaning wipes is an effective solution. A damp cloth and a cleaning product like citrus degreaser, Simple Green or dishwashing liquid and baking soda can also work." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Regular cleaning with cleaning wipes is an effective solution.", "A damp cloth and a cleaning product like citrus degreaser, Simple Green or dishwashing liquid and baking soda can also work." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "It is all subjective, but I would say that a public place is better (as I have previously answered to a similar question ).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Most bike thefts are opportunistic; unless you've got an especially desirable bike the theft is not about your bike, it's about stealing any bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So the key is to reducing the opportunity to steal your bike: as you point out, reducing the amount of time to work on the lock(s) make it less desirable and more identifiable (dirt, scuffs, mods) give alternatives - parking next to a shiny newer more expensive looking one with a poorer lock I would also say to try to use a public bike rack - then you've also got a chance that a fellow cyclist would interrupt or at least deter a thief.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Several times I've seen someone suspicious loitering around a bike rack when locking/unlocking my bike and I've taken longer about it so as to make them feel uncomfortable and move on.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't want my bike nicked and spending a few minutes to maybe slightly protect someone else's makes me feel like a good citizen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced", "score": 19 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In the end it might matter more WHO is around the rack (policemen, guards, janitors, public workers, parking lot workers, hot-dog stand owners, etc.)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "than HOW MANY people.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd rather, when available, leave my bike under one lonely ever-present alert pair of eyes than in a crowd of anonymous passers-by.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've seen videos showing people stealing bikes amidst a crowd of onlookers while no one intervenes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Locking in a crowded place isn't necessarily going to save your bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand, lots of bikes are stolen from locked garages.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not aware of any statistics about what storage method is safer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've never had a bike stolen, but from what I've heard in my social circles, most people's bikes have been stolen while they had locked it up during an outing in the evening, or overnight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's always \"when I left the bar it was gone,\" or \"in the morning it was gone.\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For this reason, I think it's safest to bring your bike into your home overnight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I would say a quieter place is better.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "less people see it, less likely a thief see's it also.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have had a bike stolen, well a bike wheel actually, stolen from outside my offices - in front of a security guard and cctv camera (both useless it would seem).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/484/NimChimpsky", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Is this link any use?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This ex-bike-thief basically says to lock your bike the busier the better.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/green-living-blog/2010/sep/13/bike-thief-stolen-tips", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As I have posted on here previously, I think if someone decides they are going to go out of their way to steal your bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I'm not sure you'll be able to stop them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But presumably your bike is/will be insured?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so, read the policy thoroughly and make sure you comply with the minimum specified security requirements.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At least if it does get stolen you'll have some compensation.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In my case the policy covers the grade of lock I need to use (in the UK", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "there is a standard called \"Sold Secure\", its arguable whether locks that conform to this standard are better than locks that don't, but it is a standard that appears to keep the insurance companies happy), what I lock the bike to, and how long I can lock it for.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "EDIT: If the link above was useful, there's a further excellent link from the Guardian - How to protect your bike from being stripped for parts", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4808/PeteH", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Its really not sure, both way have their own disadvantages.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I will say never park your bike anywhere, where there is a chance of you losing its sight, whether busy or quite place.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you have to be permanently out for several hours, then Find a good secured parking spot to park your bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There should be a guard around or someone who is responsible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "make sure he knows you have parked a bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or, you can also ask him to keep an eye on the bike (depending on the nature of the person)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If its possible, make irregular visits to the parking spot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Confusing the thief.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Complete your work and rush to your bike :) At my city, I park around a firm thing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Whether poles, or railing, to increase the difficulty ( but its not allowed everywhere, so not so helpful ).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/847/Starx", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Hal Ruzal, a bike security expert, has a series of videos on YouTube , some of which are done in conjunction with the police.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In one he answers just this very question.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "His answer is not what you may think and does not match the current top answer here.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He says it is much better to lock it in a quiet area.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is because the thieves are more edgy in terms of being seen or heard.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In a busy area they are not noticed and the noises and things they do blend in with all else that is going on.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He has spoken to thieves and knows how they work / think.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He often grades bikes based on how well they are locked.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you can keep your eye on it then that is a different matter of course.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And of course it must be locked to something secure which may also determine where you lock it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would also add that locking it next to other bikes does not work as some answers suggest.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As the thief blends in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You look and think he is just unlocking his bike next to yours -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but he is after your bike!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I once came out of an office where I locked my bike next to others to find a guy suddenly jump.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I swore", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I saw him trying to unlock my bike and move away.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He seemed to then pretend he was unlocking the bike next to mine!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I was not sure", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so just left it as my lock and bike were not damaged.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He may have been trying to pick the lock.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But it shows how they blend in this way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13954/Andrew Norris", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "When I lock my bicycle I try to lock it on quiet spots, usually on street racks situated on secondary streets. I think it will be less visible so it will attract less looks. On the other hand, if a thief wants to steal it, he will have more time to act before someone spots him. Is it better to lock the bicycle in crowded or quiet locations?", "title": "Lock my bicycle on busy or quiet places?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<security><lock><city>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12428", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3304/yeforriak" }

[ [ "There is little consensus on whether your bike is more likely to get stolen if parked in a crowded place or a quiet street and there do not seem to be any official figures on the matter. Both places have advantages and disadvantages. However, the nicer your bike is, the more likely it is to get stolen, it is believed. Thus, parking next to a better-looking bike may be the best answer. Apparently, most bikes are stolen in the evening or at night so it is probably better to keep your bike inside at that time.", "It is difficult to say objectively which is better, but thieves tend to be opportunistic and may be able to use the anonymity of crowds as well as the isolation of a quieter place. Leaving it during an outing or overnight seems to be more risky. Most thieves are not targeting individual bikes, so making a bike more difficult to steal and less appealing can help. Crowds are unlikely to stop a thief, especially when moving staying for a short time, but a security guard or vendor might be more aware of their surroundings and more willing to intervene." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is difficult to say objectively which is better, but thieves tend to be opportunistic and may be able to use the anonymity of crowds as well as the isolation of a quieter place. Leaving it during an outing or overnight seems to be more risky.", "Most thieves are not targeting individual bikes, so making a bike more difficult to steal and less appealing can help. Crowds are unlikely to stop a thief, especially when moving staying for a short time, but a security guard or vendor might be more aware of their surroundings and more willing to intervene." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The Good or less worn tire should go on the front wheel as indicated in this Sheldon Brown Article on Tire Rotation", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Although the article does hint to the fact that you should not be really rotating tires to the front wheel that may have been used on the rear wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The only time tire rotation is appropriate on a bicycle is when you are replacing the rear tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you feel like taking the trouble, and use the same type of tire front and rear, you should move the front tire to the rear wheel, and install the new tire in front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The reason for this is that the front tire is much more critical for safety than the rear, so you should have the more reliable tire on the front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a blowout, if it is on the rear tire, you have a very good chance of bringing the bike to a controlled stop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If your front tire blows, you can lose steering control, and a crash is a real possibility.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3573/MrDaniel", "score": 31 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Generally you want the best tread on the front, as a front tire skid is much more dangerous than a rear tire skid.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, I tend to ride my tires until the cord nearly shows, and, given that flats are about 5x more common on rear tires than front tires (and front-tire flats are much easier to fix), I'd be tempted to put the better tire on the rear, to reduce flat potential.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "@MrDaniel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "has a very good answer, however if the bike is used XC MTB a blowout is less of a concern than handling when compared to a road bike, as MTB tires (in true off road conditions) loose performance as they loose tread, unlike a road tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your riding style and ground you ride will dictate to some extent what you do.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have steep, slippery uphills and traction your most important problem, a better tread on the back helps.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If control is your problem and you find the front a bit sketchy - then the new one on the front would be better.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If in doubt, don't loose any sleep over it - put it on either the one you are replacing (easy - only one tire change) or the front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't forget that with MTB tires they are all quite different characteristics, build for particular combinations of riding conditions and tradeoffs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some are designed specifically for back or front, or you change the rotation direction between front and back - therefore it is not as simple as just considering tread wear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Least worn tyre on the front, always.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have pretty worn tyres, the back is completely smooth, and the front has maybe half a mm of tread in the middle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Both have lugs on the shoulders.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "We have been training hard for an upcoming 12-hour MTB endurance social event.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "All my rear-wheel slips have been recoverable, (at least a dozen), while both front wheel slips were complete wipeouts resulting in skidding, blood and one smashed phone.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said - \"sufficient\" tread on both is a really good idea.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can get away with less tread on the road than off-road Except when the road is wet.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have low tread on a road bike on a wet road - you will probably go down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Place the less worn tire on the front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You need very little tread to achieve traction on the rear tire when climbing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Though counter intuitive, tire tread has very little impact on keeping your rear tire from slipping and spinning out on a climb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maintaining traction is much more about torque, and weight and body positioning on the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I intentionally use a rear tire with low worn out center tread to reduce drag and increase rolling efficiency.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Center tread on the rear tire may help keep the tail from bouncing and sliding around a bit, but this is not critical in maintaining control.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5173/David Sopko", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Very thoughtful considerations, especially directing the thinking towards MTB terrain given that so many folks drive to trails and might not worry about pavement wear and those safety concerns as much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My knee-jerk reaction to the original question was a more superficial performance thought for a MTB: If you rely on a knobby tread and encounter sloppy (muddy/wet) conditions with a worn-down rear tire and a newer front tire, you might be better served rotating the newer tire to the drive tire in the rear.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would have to be a pretty bald rear tire to make the swap noticeable though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I have two bald tires and only enough money for one tire, I'd definitely replace the back one first if the conditions are sloppy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4693/jmmygoggle", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Where should I put the least worn tyre? on the front or the back? This is for XC MTB.", "title": "Least worn tyre: front or back?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12488", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3140/Mark W" }

[ [ "The good or less worn tire should go on the front wheel as indicated in this Sheldon Brown Article on Tire Rotation. The reason for this is that the front tire is much more critical for safety than the rear, so you should have the more reliable tire on the front. However, for MTB, there seems to be a lack of consensus, although many believe it is important to have the better tread on the rear wheel when driving over sloppy ground. That said - \"sufficient\" tread on both is a really good idea. ", "Experts indicate that the less worn tyre should always go on the front, since a front blowout is much more likely to result in a crash. However, it is a good idea not to allow too much wear on either tyre. Some MTB riders would prefer to replace the rear tyre, as this increases grip when climbing and as rear tyres are more likely to have a blowout. Front and back MTB tyres may be different for particular terrain, so it may not be possible to rotate the tyres." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Experts indicate that the less worn tyre should always go on the front, since a front blowout is much more likely to result in a crash. However, it is a good idea not to allow too much wear on either tyre.", "Some MTB riders would prefer to replace the rear tyre, as this increases grip when climbing and as rear tyres are more likely to have a blowout. Front and back MTB tyres may be different for particular terrain, so it may not be possible to rotate the tyres." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Breathe", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "however you need to in order to get oxygen in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This goes for your mouth, nose or a combination of both.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Riders warming up on their trainers have cotton in their noses that contains something like vapor rub that helps open up the nasal passages.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They don't have it in their noses during the race itself.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4481/JohnP", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For some people, weather conditions (specifically: temperature and humidity) make a big difference.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not so much for direct intake of oxygen, but because repeated inhalation of cold, dry air directly through the mouth can cause significantly more irritation of the airways and lungs , triggering asthma symptoms.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Breathing through the nose warms and slightly moistens the air before it goes to your windpipe and lungs and can decrease this effect.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Nose-breathing has the added benefit of filtering out particulate matter.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3363/djangodude", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As far as I know, breathing through the nose might be the healthier option if you don't need the extra oxygen (for say, intense uphill efforts).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Breathing through the nose will optimize the temperature, humidity of the air you breath in and also makes any pollution reach your lungs a bit less probable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are also some other subtle effects, but since I'm no expert, I won't go into that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might want to research that if you are very interested.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "During an intense effort, I would say deep (diaphragm) breathing through the nose and the mouth is the most effective way to fill your lungs with fresh air.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You might want to practice diaphragm breathing off the bike as well to get used to it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "It isn't very natural for the first time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So the tldr version is: Nose when not intense effort Nose and mouth when intense effort Also try to keep your mouth humid when you breath through it (drink very small sips of water frequently).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "A dry mouth is very unpleasant and also unhealthy (gums, throat).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the cotton wool (it's pure speculation):", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "maybe something is put on them, probably to clean up the upper respiratory tract from mucus.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6038/kovacs242", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I think it kinda depends on what type of ride you are going for.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Generally, breathing from mouth provides more amount of oxygen compared to from nose.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "So it comes down to this IMO (& Experience):", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Nose:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You have to respire quickly to get enough oxygen to lungs", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Mouth:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can breath slowly but you can still get enough oxygen into lungs very quickly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, breath", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "depending on how you are riding .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are sprinting you will want to get as more oxygen as you can into the lungs, but if you are going on a casual ride, breathing from nose is enough and safe (from bugs etc).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/847/Starx", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Some people get \"Exercise-induced asthma\" --", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "a.k..a. exercise-induced bronchoconstriction -- they say it's from breathing (air", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that's cold, dry, and/or polluted) through your mouth.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's especially true of/among cyclists (who exercise for a relatively long time).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that's you, you might it's worth it to breath in only through your nose.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It may not be easy to tell whether you get (mild) asthma -- given that the symptom is, like, \"shortness of breath while exercising\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think it may be \"unable to breathe as deeply as normal, either in or out\" -- but don't take my word for it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Youtube:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why Do So Many Pro Cyclists Have Asthma?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I just watched the 'Road to Glory' documentary about Team Sky. I noticed when they were warming up on their Turbos, some of them had cotton wool up their noses. Is this because it's better to breathe through your mouth than nose? If so, why don't they have cotton wool up their noses during the actual race?", "title": "Is it better to breathe through your nose or mouth when cycling?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<training><technique><exercise>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12861", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4589/Steve Dunn" }

[ [ "Most people agree that breathing through your nose is more benficial under normal conditions. It has the advantage of warming and moistening the air and filtering out dust and pollution. However, breathing the mouth provides more oxygen and thus is better when under extreme physical effort, for example climbing steep hills.", "Some athletes use cotton containing decongestent to free up their passages before a ride. Breathing through your nose warms the air and filters out some particles, which decreases the chance of irritation and asthma symptoms. Nose breathing provides less oxygen, but may be healthier and more suitable for warming up and less intense efforts. When sprinting, athletes breathe through their mouth and nose together." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Some athletes use cotton containing decongestent to free up their passages before a ride. ", "Breathing through your nose warms the air and filters out some particles, which decreases the chance of irritation and asthma symptoms.", "Nose breathing provides less oxygen, but may be healthier and more suitable for warming up and less intense efforts. When sprinting, athletes breathe through their mouth and nose together." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "In case you really want to drill, the only thing you need is a 10mm drill bit, and a sandpaper to give a smooth finish.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It is true that the rim gets weaker, and very narrow rims should not be drilled, but I have performed this enlargement a couple of times and rode the wheels some honest hundreds of km in every kind of terrain, with no problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I did this because I like the ease to get at any gas pump to top tire pressure after trails, and also because schraeder tubes are more avaliable and less expensive where I live.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Drilling out your rims will reduce the strength of the rim and increase the likelihood of cutting the valve stem on your tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For a few dollars you can buy two of these:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This adapter threads onto a Presta valve and effectively turns it into a Schrader valve.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Presta valve tubes are the same price and are as widely available as Schrader valve tubes, so you shouldn't need to drill out your rims.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Also, depending on how deep your rims are, finding Schrader valve tubes with valve stems long enough could be a challenge.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For a discussion of the virtues of Presta v. Schrader valves, check here .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3844/WTHarper", "score": 13 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "With MTB tires, there's really no issue in drilling out the valve hole to a larger size since the rims are so wide to begin with.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can do it yourself with a drill bit (3/8\" or 10mm) or have your LBS do it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Sanding or reaming the hole afterwards is important, as well as making sure there aren't any sharp metal bits floating around afterwards that might puncture your tubes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you ever want to go back again (after having blown through your 10-pack of schraders), you'll find that you have the opposite problem -- the hole is now too large and the presta valve will fit loosely.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can get \"presta schrader rim adapters\" that fill in this gap and prevent the tube from bulging through or the valve rattling: search term: https://www.google.com/search?q=schrader+presta+rim+adapter", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It depends on the width of the rim, and how it's constructed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the rim is over about 32mm (about 1.25\", measured from inside to inside)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then it probably has sufficient \"meat\" in the rim that drilling will not significantly weaken it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But of course it would be silly to do this simply because you have a Scharader tube -- tubes are cheap.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Tubes may be cheap, but good luck filling a presta valve when you are on the road in the USA.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "NO gas station has presta chucks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And if you are living in the USA, it's a 3/8 inch drill bit to convert to schrader valve.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have yet to see anyone have a wheel collapse due to converting to schrader valves.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The bike shops warn against it because they gotta sell those presta tubes they have in stock.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Only reason I can see for NOT converting is there may not be a schrader tube available in your size rim.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That's when you use the adapter shown above.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Look on YouTube and you will find videos on how to change from presta to schrader valves.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7495/Deputy", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Actually, correct drill bit size is 21/64\", not 3/8\" http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html - search for Schrader", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12721/Drizzt321", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "21/64\" is the proper size drill bit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I found one of this size at Autozone.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you drill from the tire-side in toward the hub, most of the sharp edges will end up on the outside of the rim and will never even impact the tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Just scrape off the worst of it", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so you don't cut yourself on the edges.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In my case, sanding was not even required.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have ridden on a drilled out rear wheel for the past six months and treated it to some rough cross country sections including small jumps (at most six feet of distance spent airborne), tree roots and steep rock gardens and there is no sign of metal fatigue around the drill site.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I am not sure how this sort of modification would impact a bike used for downhill biking.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I am so happy with my results that I just drilled out my brand new set of wheels because I appreciate the convenience of the schrader valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34018/Aaron", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "My 26\" mtb rims support presta sized tube stems, however can I drill the diameter of the holes in the rims bigger in order to support Schrader stemmed tubes? what is the proper way to do this, is there a kit?", "title": "Schrader tubes in Presta configured Rims?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<rims><presta><schrader>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12992", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5392/sov" }

[ [ "iT is perfectly possible to drill out Presta rims so you can fit Schrader tubes. The correct drill size to do this, according to Sheldon Brown is 21/64\", not 3/8\" http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html. Schrader valves are more convenient, especially for inflating tire at gas stations in US. However, there is no price saving as Presta and Schrader valves cost about the same. Before drilling, it is a good idea to check if a Schrader valve is available to fit the Presta rim.", "This is easily done with a 10mm or 21/64\" drill bit. There are warnings that this can weaken the rim, but especially with thicker MTB wheels this is not a great risk. Care should be taken to sand the hole and remove sharp metal bits before replacing the tube. Tubes with both valves are readily available, but some sizes may not be available with Schrader valves and it may not be possible to fill a Presta valve while on the road." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is easily done with a 10mm or 21/64\" drill bit. There are warnings that this can weaken the rim, but especially with thicker MTB wheels this is not a great risk. Care should be taken to sand the hole and remove sharp metal bits before replacing the tube.", "Tubes with both valves are readily available, but some sizes may not be available with Schrader valves and it may not be possible to fill a Presta valve on the road." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The main disadvantage to either toe clips or (even moreso) clipless pedals is that until you get used to them you're likely to have a few rather inelegant falls (like pulling up to a stoplight and just falling over).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are other cases where they can contribute to falls (or exacerbate falls that would have occurred anyway), particularly in off-road conditions (which is one reason that off-road bikers often don't use them).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "To me (being partly disabled) the main advantage is that I expend less energy keeping my feet on the pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This isn't as trivial as it sounds:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Without some sort of retention system you must constantly work to keep your feet centered over the pedals -- get off-center and your foot slides off.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, people mostly manage this unconsciously, but it still takes considerable effort/energy, especially when you're tired or struggling against a hill or headwind or whatever.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The ability to \"pull\" on the pedal and gain energy on the upstroke is probably not significant in the general case, but can be important when you need a brief burst of power/torque.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "More important, and somewhat related to the previous paragraph, is the fact that you can extend your power stroke slightly, beginning a few degrees earlier and ending a few degrees later.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You don't get more peak torque, but you do get more energy per unit time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is some disagreement within the cycling community about how beneficial clipless pedals and toe clips are over regular platform pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I won't get into the argument here, but feel free to read the above link for the best thought-out argument against clipless pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, the most commonly named advantage of clipless pedals and toe clips is the ability to pull up on the back stroke, theoretically creating 360 degrees of power.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "As I understand it, this idea hasn't really held up under lab tests.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The additional advantages of toe clips are that they're cheap, easy to get in and out of, offer a large degree of float (the way that your foot moves around on the pedal), and can be worn with almost any shoe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The disadvantages are that they can scuff up and/or wear holes in your shoes, they're not quite as easy to get out of as a platform pedal, and don't offer as much power through the whole 360 degrees of motion as clipless pedals do.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The additional advantages of clipless pedals are a more secure attachment to the pedal, and the ability to wear a shoe with a completely rigid bottom.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The disadvantages are that the reduced float can contribute to repetitive stress injuries, they require special (and often expensive shoes), and they're more difficult to get out of.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You even see experienced cyclists fall over at stoplights once in a while because the pedal refuses to disengage.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "My personal preferences are platforms for downhill, trials, and urban riding, toe clips for commuting, clipless for mountain biking and road racing/training.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "They are more efficient.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Firstly you need to do less work to keep your feet on the pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Though it seems like that might be trivial", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you do expend energy and or concentration on keeping you feet on the pedals", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "this will reduce that somewhat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Additionally in some circumstances it is safer, your feet will not slip off the pedals when you go over a bump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally you will be able to pull on the up stroke using different muscles and giving you more even power.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I had a problem with toe straps that I have not had with proper clip in pedals and shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In order to remove your feet from toe straps, especially ones done too tightly you must take them straight back off the pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is most unnatural as the reflex action is to move them sideways especially if you are slowing down and staring to lean to one side.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5247/robthewolf", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's surprising that this is as hot a topic as it is.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Clipless pedals are more efficient, and you can get stiffer shoes for them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Competitor or not, if you step foot into clipless pedals I think you will notice the difference.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Go take a pair for a test ride and you will probably favor the increased control, especially if you ride longer distances.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps the main downside that can't be overcome one way or another, is the increased cost.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As for that infamous argument about whether or not you can produce more power, hopefully we will have enough real world data to bring the argument to rest.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5237/Scott Hillson", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "To ride a bike efficiently the ball of your foot must be over the pedal spindle and to answer your question, toe clips and straps are one way of doing this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Up to the mid-80s that was the method used by all serious cyclists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could buy small, medium and large toe clips for any size of shoe to fix your feet in the correct position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Metal or leather shoe plates with a groove that fitted over the rear pedal plate were nailed to the soles of the leather shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The strap had a quick release buckel and went through the pedal and through a loop on the toe clip.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When the foot engaged the pedal and the strap was pulled tight your foot was held very tight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To get your foot out", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you had to bend down and flick the strap buckle, lift your foot and pull it back.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The modern method is clipless pedals, they serve the same purpose, fixing the ball of your foot always over the pedal spindle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The initial cost is quite expensive as you require special pedals, shoes and cleats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When the cleats are fitted to the shoes you just have to push your foot down on the pedal till it clicks and to release it you turn your foot to the left or right.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The holding tension can be adjusted on the pedals to allow for easier entry and release.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are very good", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I recommend you buy them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To see and feel the benefit of fixing your feet just try going up a steep hill or sprinting as hard as you can, or ask yourself why do all the Pros use them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1266/Kipper", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I'm considering getting some toe grips or straps for my bike. What are the benefits of these over normal pedals?", "title": "Benefits of toe grips/toe straps", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<pedals><clipless><toe-straps-clips>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13039", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5189/evoandy" }

[ [ "There are some advantages to toe grips as they keep your feet firmly on the pedal and allow you to apply more pressure, thus creating more power. They also mean you have to expend less effort keeping your feet on the pedal. There are, nevertheless, some disadvantages, namely they take a little getting used to as you have to pull your foot directly backwards to get it off the pedal. This may result in a few falls at first when you have to make a sudden stop. These disadvantages mean they are not much used ny the MTB community.", "The main advantages of clipless pedals and toe clips include solid positioning of the feet in an efficient cycling position and possible (but unverified) added power from pulling up on the pedals. Professionals all use clipless pedals, which is a strong vote of confidence in their efficacy. Toe clips and clipless pedals have the potential disadvantage of the need to remove your foot from the fastening, which can cause unnecessary falls or exacerbate accidents. Toe clips have the advantage of being compatible with normal shoes, while clipless pedals allow more rigid soles with a more secure attachment to the sole." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The main advantages of clipless pedals and toe clips include solid positioning of the feet in an efficient cycling position and possible (but unverified) added power from pulling up on the pedals. Professionals all use clipless pedals, which is a strong vote of confidence in their efficacy.", "Toe clips and clipless pedals have the potential disadvantage of the need to remove your foot from the fastening, which can cause unnecessary falls or exacerbate accidents.", "Toe clips have the advantage of being compatible with normal shoes, while clipless pedals allow more rigid soles with a more secure attachment to the sole." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "This is a common problem, but really not a big deal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've usually heard it called \"toe overlap\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have it on all my bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Basically, it's a bit shocking the first time it happens, but you get used to it .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's no big deal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're simply aware that it can happen at slow speeds, you'll avoid it easily enough.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Since it can only happen at slow speeds, it's not particularly dangerous.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's most common on racing-style road bikes due to their short wheelbase or on smaller frame bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Big tires and/or fenders can make it more likely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Big feet and shoes that stick forward of your toes very far also make it more likely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Possible solutions include: Try not to worry about it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's usually just an annoyance", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and you get used to it pretty quickly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't go slow", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(can't turn the wheel far enough for it to be a problem unless you're going slow).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When going slow and making a sharp turn, pay attention to where your feet are.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't pedal while turning Pump the pedals instead of normal pedaling, so that only your inside foot goes forward Get your feet into a good position (outside foot just below where the pedal overlap happens) as you start to turn.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Also pay attention when starting from a stop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Pedal with the ball of your foot over the spindle of the pedal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "This is generally considered the \"correct\" place, and leaves your foot only going a little forward of the pedal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some beginners put the arch of their foot on the pedal, which is likely to be uncomfortable on platform pedals, and puts your foot more forward.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe slide your foot back a bit as you're making a slow turn, so that you pedal with your toes instead.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I find this uncomfortable, but it's tolerable for a few seconds.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you're shopping for bikes, look at how much toe overlap there is.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You don't even need to ride the bike, you can tell by putting the pedal forward, putting a foot on the pedal at about the right position, and turning the handlebars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Smaller riders may find that bikes with smaller wheels give them less toe overlap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "650b or 26\" instead of 700c?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Really, don't worry about it too much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit", "score": 27 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My son had an toe-overlap issue, and it turned out the forks were on backwards.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I looked up how to take the forks out, and after I turned them around, the bike is perfect.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No toe-overlap!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thanks for the suggestion.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/49690/Justin", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This exact same thing happened to me, I realised my front bike wheel was the wrong way round!!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I was fuming as I had purchased it from Halfords?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, I turned the bike wheel around and it was fine!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32141/Stanley", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As in the link that OP posted and the suggestions here most of the actions focus on changing the riding technique.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is one other option mentioned in the link and one that I thought of should the new technique be no solution.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "change the fork rake - by replacing the front fork for the one providing larger wheelbase", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "you increase the distance between the front axle and the bottom bracket", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "thus you decrease the toe overlap, probably to the measure that it is not occurring.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand you also decrease the patch trail of the bike making it more agile when it comes to steering stability (it will be more difficult to ride \"no hands\") and you increase the wheelbase making the bike slightly more difficult to manoeuvre in slow tight corners.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hence, solving one problem you create another.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "change the cranks to one size shorter - changing from e.g. 170mm cranks to 165mm will decrease the toe overlap slightly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This may be beneficial if the rider's inseam is on the shorter size - they won't need to stretch their legs that much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the downside is that shorter cranks require more power needed to maintain the same cadence.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But since you are replacing the cranks, replace the chainring for a size smaller.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The rider will need to increase their cadence but riding will feel like it requires less effort .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And a biker riding with higher cadence appears to be riding faster, let alone that lower load and faster repetitions (at the gym) allow for more fat burn and muscle tone up, opposed to high load and less repetitions", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "cause mainly muscle build up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34697/Mike", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Just make sure your fork is oriented the correct direction.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I bought a Spot bike, and when it arrived to my house the factory had put the fork on the wrong direction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Actually, they put the handle bars on the wrong direction, and when they oriented the handle bars correctly it turns the fork 180 degrees in the wrong direction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This isn’t immediately obvious, and all you may notice is that the pedal hits the front tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43270/Dave", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "My girlfriend got a new city bike today and she touches the front wheel every time she has to make a hard turn. Is there anyway to avoid this besides replacing the whole bike? LATER EDIT: I think I found my answer here .", "title": "Touching the front wheel with my foot when turning", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<wheels><geometry><toe-overlap>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13060", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5424/Paul Irofti" }

[ [ "Touching the front wheel of the bike when turning is a common problem but not a serious one. It usually only happens at slow speed. It is most common on racing style road bikes and bikes with big tires and/or fenders. Moreover, it may be related to the foot position on the pedal: arch on the pedal instead of the ball or the positioning/direction of the fork. To solve the issue, change your foot position and check the fork direction.", "This is a common but minor problem that only occurs at slow speeds and can easily be avoided. It can occur on bicycles with a small wheelbase or frame, especially if the feet are too far forward due to putting the arch of the foot on the pedal. Inspect a bike for toe overlap before buying it. Sometimes the fork can be turned backwards, which makes the wheelbase shorter. Smaller wheels or shorter cranks can reduce the problem, as can replacing the fork. To avoid the problem when riding, pay attention to the position of your foot when going slowly and turning. Place the ball of your foot on the pedal rather than the arch, and move it back when turning at a slow speed." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is a common but minor problem that only occurs at slow speeds and can easily be avoided. It can occur on bicycles with a small wheelbase or frame, especially if the feet are too far forward due to putting the arch of the foot on the pedal.", "Sometimes the fork can be turned backwards, which makes the wheelbase shorter. Smaller wheels or shorter cranks can reduce the problem, as can replacing the fork.", "To avoid the problem when riding, pay attention to the position of your foot when going slowly and turning. Place the ball of your foot on the pedal rather than the arch, and move it back when turning at a slow speed." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you're sitting too far forward on this bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Whether you're too tall for your frame or not is difficult to diagnose without at least pictures, but you might consider that this bike is simply too small for you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(If you're having trouble getting the handlebars far enough forward, that's a sign that this could be the case.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Are you able to get the saddle high enough", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so your knees are locked with the heel of your foot on the pedal?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might also consider simply moving your saddle back on the rails.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That might give you a little more room.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd also repeat", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wadelp's suggestion - toe clips will help you keep your feet correctly positioned on the pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could always add some toe clips to your pedals they will keep your feet positioned on the pedals better.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Clipless pedals - like Shimano SPD or Crank Bros Egg Beaters - work great too, but they do require special shoes with cleats on them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5371/Wadelp", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Ideally, the ball of your feet (the part just below the toes), should be on the pedal to transfer power to the pedals (efficiently and bio-mechanically healthy).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is also likely causing your knees to \"flare\" away from the frame (like a V).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll want to keep your knee, toes and hip on the same vertical plane.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "otherwise long term could lead to knee ligament problems.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks like the bike is too small for you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "At 185cm, I would think a 58-62cm frame is better suited depending on your leg length. see http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm and http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/road-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&u=in&r=man&h=1879.6&i=863.6&b=Calculate", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5574/MandoMando", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You may want to try this online fit computer .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It does require several measurements, but the results are generally pretty good.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Regarding changing the geometry, you can sometimes make a small bike work, but it will never be as good as a properly-sized bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I know someone who rides a too-small Colnago because he's so attached to it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He has a 120mm stem (maybe longer, can't recall), and his seat is as far back as possible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He's around 1.83m tall, and his bike is a 54 or 55 (can't recall).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "He was commuting on the bike, around 200 miles (322 km)/week.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But just because it works for him doesn't mean it will work for you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It depends on your geometry, too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Long legs, short arms would be worse on a too-small bike than short legs, long arms on the same bike, because you need a certain amount of leg extension to pedal efficiently.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3985/Zippy The Pinhead", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Try an offset seat post , that will help get your seat back a little further.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Other than that, sure, a different seat tube angle would change the spatial relationship between your rear and your feet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But that angle doesn't change too much between the various road bike frames.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps shortening the effective top-tube length (forcing you more upright) might help the feeling - you can get a shorter stem, or different handlebars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It begs the question -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "why do you care where your feet hit?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the current scenario is comfortable, then why change it?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Unicyclists (mountain at least) ride with the pedal just in front of their heel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Given your shoe size (58-59), I can imagine your feet are hitting the front wheel when you turn sharply - so maybe that's the reason...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On some bikes I have that problem, and I wear only 48.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "More drastic changes could be switching seat types, like a banana seat (yes, you might look silly).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or switching bicycle styles, say to a recumbent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But, really, if the change doesn't \"feel\" right, have you tried it for an extended period of time?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm thinking a couple hours (cumulative) - to get past the initial reaction.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe you've just been riding mid-foot so long it will take a while to change what feels comfortable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/174/Trey Jackson", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "What type of pedal are you using?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You're a relatively tall guy for a 55 cm bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You're almost my height, I think you would be much more comfortable on a frame that's closer to 59 cm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5237/Scott Hillson", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I am 1,85m tall, have shoes sized 58-59 (European) and have classic non sloped frame with seat tube 55cm. Problem is that my feet land with their middle on the pedals, not with the front part where the toes are. I will try to move seat more to the back, but other than that, is it possible to look for different geometry on the frame, or are almost all frames the same in that respect?", "title": "Feet on the middle of the pedals", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<bike-fit>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13298", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5563/Davorin Ruševljan" }

[ [ "The problem of the foot position on the pedal appears to stem from sitting too far forward on this bike. This may occur when the bike is too small for the rider. One option is to move the seat backwards. Toe clips will help you keep your feet correctly positioned on the pedals. Clipless pedals - like Shimano SPD or Crank Bros Egg Beaters - work great too, but they do require special shoes with cleats on them.", "It sounds like the bike is too small, so moving the saddle back with an offset seat post could help, in addition to some other changes to the geometry. Toe clips or clipless pedals could keep your feet in the right position on the pedals. A larger bike with the right fit to your body would be a better solution though." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It sounds like the bike is too small, so moving the saddle back with an offset seat post could help, in addition to some other changes to the geometry. A larger bike with the right fit to your body would be a better solution though.", "Toe clips or clipless pedals could keep your feet in the right position on the pedals." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I don't think you will need to change the frame, I looked at one of the bianchi series a while back", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I saw the same frame (the Oltre - I can but dream) offered at different prices depending on the groupset.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But the groupsets available were from both shimano and campag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's variations with Dura Ace, Ultegra, Athena, Super Record", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can't imagine the actual frame would be different between these groupsets, otherwise surely it would have a different name?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Here's the link to that page: http://www.bianchi.com/Uk/Bikes/Bikes_List.aspx?RangeIDMaster=74825&CategoryIDMaster=74829", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may want to visit the Scott site, you may find something similar", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However I can imagine you're going to have to change just about everything else, though, including wheels (well, as far as the freehub at least).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4808/PeteH", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "No.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are no frame changes required.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The only time I could imagine this would be required is if you are looking at the electronic groupos, and frames that have specific battery mounts for one particular groupo.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, even then I'm sure there'd be a workaround.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/832/Darren Cope", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You'd have to change the rear wheel or have it rebuilt on a campy hub", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(the shimano hub is not compatible with campy cogs), and of course all the components.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, nothing should need to be changed on the frame itself.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3031/ack", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There are no compatibility issue at all.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For the most part, Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano have designed their groupsets to work to common frame characteristics.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Drillings for electronic might be an issue in that Campagnolo EPS has until recently and still in the case of Chorus) needed an extra drilling for the Power Unit charge port, but that is a hurdle that any competent fitting technician should be able to clear.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Campagnolo make adapters for all of the current formats of BB with the exceptions of BB Rite in PowerTorque only (they do it in UltraTorque) and Specialized OSBB, neither of which is not a problem that applies here.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Shimano use third party solutions - they don't offer any in-house compatibility with anything other tha BSC or Italian threded BBs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13182/Graeme", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As your Scott is a modern bike, I'd be inclined to agree with some of the other answers here and say that I don't think you will require any modifications to your frame if you switch from Shimano to Campagnolo.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are some areas which are not strictly frame related where you may need to be careful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're switching to an EPS groupset then it's likely that your frame won't have specific mounts or routing for the electronic cabling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, in my experience you've often got options to run the cables externally quite neatly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As already mentioned, you will need to either change your wheels (or the freehub body if possible on your current set) so that they can take a Campagnolo specific cassette.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your frame was much older, I'd also suggest that you check the spacing between the dropouts to ensure there was sufficient room.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One area I have run into that's worth checking, is that if you intend to use an 11t sprocket at the rear with a compact chainset (or triple) that there is sufficient practical space between the chain and the chainstay.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You should be mindful of the bottom bracket setup on the R2 and make sure that any new Campagnolo system is compatible with it, or that you have a relevant converter if required.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The same goes for the front mech, make sure your new one is the same (band or braze on) as the existing Shimano one.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Again, not a problem for the R2, but if your frame was setup for longer reach brake calipers, I'd also suggest that you measure the existing ones before you order, to ensure that the new ones have sufficient depth.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If in doubt or if you want extra reassurance, I'd check in with your local Scott dealer to get their confirmation, they may also be able to offer advice on subtle changes they make when setting up for Campagnolo which will make your transition smoother.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5633/jdv", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I want change the groupset on my Scott Addict R2 from Shimano to Campagnolo. Is Campagnolo fully compatible or will I need to make frame changes?", "title": "Are frame changes needed to switch groupset from Shimano to Campagnolo?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shimano><campagnolo>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13323", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5578/Michelle" }

[ [ "No frame changes are required when changing from Shimano to Campagnolo groupset as, for the most part, Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano have designed their groupsets to work to common frame characteristics. However probably just about everything else will have to be changed, including wheels (well, as far as the freehub at least). The Shimano hub is not compatible with campy cogs, and all the components.", "The frame of modern bikes should be compatible with Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano groupsets without any modifications. However, you should check compatibility with the bottom bracket as well as the available space between the chain and the chainstay for the chainset you want. The Shimano hub will need to be changed to fit the Campagnolo cogs though, and extra drilling may be necessary for electronic groupsets and cable routing. This will not be a problem for competent technicians though. Other parts like brakes may not be compatible, so talk to a Scott dealer for advice." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The frame of modern bikes should be compatible with Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano groupsets without any modifications. However, you should check compatibility with the bottom bracket as well as the available space between the chain and the chainstay for the chainset you want.", "The Shimano hub will need to be changed to fit the Campagnolo cogs though, and extra drilling may be necessary for electronic groupsets and cable routing. This will not be a problem for competent technicians though. Other parts like brakes may not be compatible, so talk to a Scott dealer for advice." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "For downhill and all forms of trail riding (freeride, enduro, all mountain etc)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the prefered way is 1 finger (index) on each lever .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anything else can be dangerous.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the brakes are not powerful enough for dealing with this then they either need fix or replacement to proper brakes for this type of riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, riders position the levers closer to the stem (leaving 1 to 2 inches space between the grip and lever clamp) in order to enforce that only 1 finger can go on the lever.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This also helps the finger pull the lever from its most powerful spot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/908/cherouvim", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I look at it the other way - what's the required number of fingers to maintain a hold of the handle bars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On a sealed road it's close to 0, leaving 4 for braking.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In a serious rough/rocky track, it might take four, leaving none for the brakes (along with praying it smooths out soon).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Lose the handle bar, you lose brakes and steerage", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- there's only one way that ends, and you are a passenger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Going too fast with steerage - there is more than one possible outcome, which you have a degree of control over the outcome, and can usually minimize the damage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Off road, I typically use my outer fingers first - pinky + 1 is the minimum for useful braking, never more than pinky + 2.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In general the fewer fingers on the brake lever the better, as it means more fingers can keep you holding on.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However in the real world, it depends on your grip strength and how powerful your brakes are, for how many fingers you can stop with.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2358/cmannett85", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "On both road and mountain bikes I tend to keep 1 finger ready to brake when I don't think I'm going to need to stop quickly, mostly for feathering my brakes to slow.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When I think there is a more immediate need, such as going down a steep incline on road or technical singletrack section off-road, then I tend to use 2 fingers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This tends to be my default.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sometimes, I'll use 3 for an emergency stop if I'm surprised, but most of the time 2 seems to be better for that as well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some brakes may be easier to pull than others depending on the style and how well they are tuned.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hydraulic disc brakes tend to be the easiest and require less effort (so I use one finger more often).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could just flip the whole gang the bird and use Middle finger braking .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Throwing in some anecdotal stuff.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had been fine riding XC with two fingers in the lever (middle+index)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but when I began riding DH, I often experienced grip loss of hand / forearm fatigue.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Somehow I discovered that I was way more comfortable using just the middle finger on the brakes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It seems to be that my index fingers are much better gripping the handlebars than actuating the lever.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I supposed that lever placement had a role, so I moved the levers towards the stem so I could actuate them with my index finger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The result: I was able to apply the brakes fairly well, but my fatigue problems worsened.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I reverted the setup to actuate the lever with the middle finger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "May be just my case, but it happens to be that my middle finger is just stronger applying the brakes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This leaves me with 3 finger in the handlebar: pinky, annular and index, which provides me with enough grip for DH riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now I use this technique even in XC or commuting.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Results more relaxed to me, less fatigue at the end of a ride or practice session.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, conclusion after the long fairy tale:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "*", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "*Try different positions at least for a ride or two, the perfect hand grip for you may not be in book!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "**", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Under normal riding situations on paved roads, I always reach for the brake levers with at least two fingers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just in case you hit a bump and a finger is \"jarred\" off of the lever, or a finger just slips off of the lever because of sweating, you still have one finger left on the brake lever to exert some braking force to a wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, each individual usually will seek whatever feels most comfortable to them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Keeping control is the main thing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On a downhill, you should only need really \"light\" pressure on the brakes to stay under control.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I still use my two fingers for the safety aspect, but \"feather\" the brakes using one dominant finger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Professional racers use either 1-finger technique or 2-fingers technique for braking.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The 2-fingers technique is more efficient for hard braking and is useful only for racing or riding at high speeds (>200 km/h) while 1-finger braking is smoother and more precise and is useful for normal riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Furthermore, owner's manual for most bikes advice to squeeze the brake, not grab it and thus instructs to use one or 2 fingers for braking instead of 3 or 4.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Experienced riders know that on a bike, you should squeeze the front brake gradually so that some pressure will push the front wheel onto the ground, thus making a larger contact surface, thus allowing you to squeeze harder without risking the front wheel to block (the front wheel keeps the bike up while it is spinning, so blocking it will make the bike fall in about 1 second)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22622/Olivier RASSI", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I have seen people stop with one finger, two fingers or the whole hands on the levers. Is there a recommended number of fingers on the brake levers when stopping/anticipating an emergency stop? Do brake types or riding style (DH, road ..) affect this number?", "title": "How many fingers on the brake lever?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><brakes><ergonomics>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13401", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac" }

[ [ "The number of fingers used for braking is usually one or two depending on the situation and the rider. Professionals tend to use 1 or 2 fingers while normal riders seem to favor 2. You need to balance the number of fingers used with staying in control of the bike. Obviously, in an emergency situation, more fingers may be needed.", "This depends on your grip strength, road conditions, personal comfort and choice, speed and other factors. Try experimenting with different styles to find the best solution for you. Experienced riders often use one or maybe two fingers except for emergency braking. It is important to maintain control and not brake too hard, so most owner's manuals suggest using only one or two fingers and squeezing rather than grabbing. Squeezing the front brake gradually pushes the wheel down and allows further braking without blocking." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "This depends on your grip strength, road conditions, personal comfort and choice, speed and other factors. Experienced riders often use one or maybe two fingers except for emergency braking. Try experimenting with different styles to find the best solution for you.", "It is important to maintain control and not brake too hard, so most owner's manuals suggest using only one or two fingers and squeezing rather than grabbing. Squeezing the front brake gradually pushes the wheel down and allows further braking without blocking." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The common qualification here is an important one: truing is a skill that benefits from practice and experience (chicken, meet egg).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your wheels are important, and it's important to have somebody who knows what they're doing at least check your work if you're just learning (or if you're disinclined to trust your well-being in dense traffic to wheels you trued yourself).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Having said that, a rim that isn't bent should have more or less even spoke tension across all the spokes when it is true.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand, a bent rim will require higher tension in some spots and lower tension in others.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So, noticeably uneven spoke tension in a true wheel is one sign that the rim might be bent.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5776/Matt Tenenbaum", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you remove the tire and loosen all spokes completely, or better remove them as well, and put the rim on a flat surface, it should become clear if the rim is bent or not.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously this requires some work which may be unnecessary if the wheel simply needs truing, so I'd try that first.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it fails and you are thinking of replacing or repairing the rim, it will need to be removed anyway.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5769/Thomas", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Well, sometimes the rim is visibly bent, especially if there are creases in the sides.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But if not visibly bent, and you don't have an experienced eye, then you have to attempt to true the wheel and see if it trues up well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some minor dents in a rim can be repaired with the proper equipment, but others require rim replacement.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Beyond that you need to read a book.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(It should be noted that if the wheel is not particularly expensive then this is a good opportunity to learn wheel truing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're reasonably careful (and use the right spoke wrench)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you won't screw it up much worse, and, unless you true it, you're going to have to take it to the shop anyway.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So a good time to give wheel truing a try.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And in response to @WTHarper: It helps to know how the wheel got cocked up in the first place.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it was hit by a car then the odds of a bent rim are pretty high.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it \"just happened\" -- the wheel went out of alignment on its own -- then a bent rim is very unlikely (and a broken spoke is likely).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it happened in a \"soft\" fall -- eg, the wheel slid out from under you on loose gravel -- then a bent rim is possible but unlikely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's more likely that some spokes were just stretched out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it happened in a hard fall or when hitting an obstruction then a bent rim is more likely but far from certain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(And I should have mentioned checking for broken spokes:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "First check that all spokes are tight, and if any are loose check whether they are in fact broken.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would be very unusual for a wheel to not \"taco\" slightly when a spoke breaks, and replacing the spoke should get it back in true with relatively little effort.)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The best advice here is to take your wheel to an accomplished wheel builder who should be able to true your wheel if it's possible or rebuild it if it needs it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Truing wheels is one of those things that's more Art than Science and once it starts going wrong, it just gets worse. http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5757/alex", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "First: don't try truing a wheel you rely on without experience!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If spoke tension is high on the side of the rim deviation, then you can improve the true by adjusting spoke tension.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If spoke tension is low on the side of the deviation or the tensions are roughly even, then the rim is bent and trying to fix it with tension will make the tension balance worse.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you can hear tones pretty well, you can check tension by plucking spokes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Either pluck at the cross (in which case be aware you're conflating the tension of two spokes) or damp the spokes at the cross and pluck one spoke rimward of the cross.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On undished wheels, you can compare the tensions of spokes on the two sides (i.e., coming from different flanges of the hub) directly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If the wheel is dished (as with geared rear or most disc-brake wheels), you'll want to pay attention to the relative tension with respect to same-side spokes , and compare that between spokes on both sides of the wheel near the deviation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "For example, if I have a road rear wheel with a rim deviation to the left (non-drive), I know the right-flange (drive) spokes are at higher tension than the left, so I can't compare tones directly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'll pluck some left-flange spokes near the deviation, and then some other left-flange spokes around the wheel, and do likewise for right-flange spokes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If left-flange spokes at the rim deviation are tighter than average, and right-flange spokes are looser than average, then I can true with a spoke wrench.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's the opposite, or if the sides are the same, then it's a judgement call (regarding whether truing will be able to correct the deviation while maintaining acceptably even tension).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19153/Austen", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The cause of your question should probably determine if the rim is bent or just needs \"adjusting\" by a qualified wheel builder.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If contact with a vehicle or other solid object is the cause of the question, then there's a good chance the wheel is actually bent and will likely need to be entirely re-built or replaced ( replacing may be more cost effective ).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you just discovered the wheel seems to be \"wobbling\" in a certain spot or is rubbing the frame or forks in a certain area, the problem is likely a wheel rim that needs trueing by spoke adjustment or spoke replacement in a certain area of the wheel rim.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In either case, in the interest of safety and rim longevity, I'd suggest having a knowledgeable wheel builder at a bicycle shop take a look at the wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That's better than worrying about a possible accident caused by a bad wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "How can I tell if a rim is bent or if the wheel is just out of true?", "title": "How can I tell if a rim is bent or if the wheel is just out of true?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<wheels><repair><wheel-truing>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13736", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo" }

[ [ "Sometimes the rim is visibly bent, especially if there are creases in the sides. If it is not visibly bent, and you don't have an experienced eye, then you have to attempt to true the wheel and see if it trues up well. Uneven spoke tension is a sign of an untrue wheel. If you remove the tire and loosen all spokes completely, or better remove them as well, and put the rim on a flat surface, it should become clear if the rim is bent or not. However, in the interest of safety and rim longevity, it is better to let a knowledgeable wheel builder at a bicycle shop take a look at the wheel.", "Truing a wheel is a skilled task and should not be done without experience. Wheels should be checked by a professional, even if just to check your work. However, a bent rim will have uneven spoke tension when true, may be visibly bent or have creases in the sides, and will not lie flat if the spokes are removed and the rim is placed on a flat surface. Some rim damage can be repaired, but replacement is often necessary. If the wheel is just wobbling in one spot, spoke adjustment or replacement can correct this. The origin of the problem can be a good indication of the damage: a sudden misalignment without an accident or after a soft fall is probably caused by a broken spoke, but a harder fall or collision could indicate a bent rim. The tension can be tested by plucking spokes and listening to the tone produced. The tensions on the left and right of the wheel can be contrasted on undished wheels, but on dished wheels (on geared wheels or most wheels with disc brakes), the relative tension of spokes on the same side should be copmared." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Wheels should be checked by a professional, even if just to check your work. However, a bent rim will have uneven spoke tension when true, may be visibly bent or have creases in the sides, and will not lie flat if the spokes are removed and the rim is placed on a flat surface. Some rim damage can be repaired, but replacement is often necessary. If the wheel is just wobbling in one spot, spoke adjustment or replacement can correct this.", "The origin of the problem can be a good indication of the damage: a sudden misalignment without an accident or after a soft fall is probably caused by a broken spoke, but a harder fall or collision could indicate a bent rim. The tension can be tested by plucking spokes and listening to the tone produced.", "Truing a wheel is a skilled task and should not be done without experience. The tensions on the left and right of the wheel can be contrasted on undished wheels, but on dished wheels (on geared wheels or most wheels with disc brakes), the relative tension of spokes on the same side should be copmared." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "WD-40 is mostly a solvent with a very light lubricant mixed in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's great for getting stuck parts moving again.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When you spray it on, the solvent dislodges whatever gunk may be causing the part to stick and then evaporates, leaving a light lubricant behind.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This will allow the previously stuck part to move again.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The reason it is generally not considered a good bicycle lubricant is because it is a light lubricant.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's just fine for household items like door hinges, which aren't exposed to weather and don't get moved a couple hundred times a minute.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But the lubricant is not thick enough to adhere to rapidly moving bike parts for any length of time, especially when you add a little bit of road grit and/or rain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people do use it for loosening up shifters in the winter time ( they stick when it's cold ) or cleaning chains and derailleurs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will notice in the answers and comments on the aforelinked question, and this one , that whether or not this is good practice is highly debatable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people will use WD-40 as a cleaner and degreaser followed by a bicycle-specific lubricant, with or without a cleaning inbetween, depending on personal preferences.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't have any experience with their bicycle-specific products, but they're a solid company that's been in the business of cleaning and lubricating mechanical parts for a long time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They also make Lava soap and 3-in-1 Oil, a product that was originally designed as a bicycle lubricant (although they did acquire both of those from other companies).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I actually didn't know until I read this question that they were making bicycle-specific lubricants now.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Given their history and the number of patents that they have to draw ideas and develop from, I'm certainly willing to give them a shot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The worst case scenario is that I have to clean it off and go back to my previous products.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 60 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "WD-40 (original) can be used as a de-greaser on bike parts.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It is a bit harsher than other bike specific de-greasers, or common house hold degreasers (like Simple Green ) that are often used by bike mechanics but essentially does the same thing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Keep it mind that it is NOT", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "a lubricant, but a de-greaser.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After using any de-greaser you want to wash the area with soap and water and then apply a lubricant.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have used the WD-40 bike specific lubricants and don't have any complaints.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The wet lube held up well in a few nasty cyclocross races, and the dry lube is what I've been using on my \"indoor trainer\" bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They have thrown a lot of money into the launch of these products over the last few months", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I expect that with this type of support, their products will become a household name in the bike space in the coming years.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5346/jeuton", "score": 22 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The \"W\" in WD-40 stands for water and the \"D\" stands for displacement, and the 40 stands for the 40th.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "attempt at being successful with the product.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "WD-40 doesn't really lubricate much of anything.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's actually a de-greaser, so it will remove any lubricant from bicycle chains, cables and other pivot joints.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're cleaning your chain for re-lubrication purposes with a product other than WD-40, then WD-40 will be fine to use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's also said to \"rust proof\" items, but probably because of it's ability to displace water which commonly causes rust to form.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I haven't tried any of the new products yet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They have a bike \"degreaser\", a bike \"foaming wash\" and two different chain lubricants, as well as a frame protectant.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It will be interesting to see some reviews about these new products as far as pricing and how well they work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 18 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have used many types of bicycle lubrications over the years.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The short answer is that WD-40 can be used; my experience pretty much the averages out of allthe comments above.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The strength of WD-40 is that it is time efficient and cost efficient.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A small amount of money buys you a big can, and one application", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "both cleans and lubricates (a little).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you spray it on you will see all the grime etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "dripping off (not quite as good as properly degreasing using a chain cleaner ) and you will be left with a chain that is reasonably well lubricated.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The slightest bit of rain will wash it off, and even with no rain it will disappear quite quickly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However it is very easy to re-apply.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I found that it worked for me for a bike I was just using for short rides (45 mins ~ 1 hr) on the road.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would just give it a spray every 2 rides or so (or every time after rain).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I turned to this after years of using expensive bike-specific lubes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They definitely do a better lubrication job, but I found the dry ones were washed off easily by the rain while the wet ones attracted a lot of dirt, while both required the chain to be properly cleaned before application.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The bottles were always expensive, so in the end I found that for that particular bike WD-40 provided a cheap-and-cheerful time and cost effective soln.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The chain will also wear out a little quicker if you use WD-40.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your own choice will depend on how much time /money", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you want to spend, how long your rides are, what type of riding (off or on road) etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The very best way to lubricate your chain is to properly wax it; this will take a whole morning but will then last a year, which also provides a good cost performance if you have a morning to spare on it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46888/tokyojoe", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I used WD-40 on my oil starved bike chain and gears, and it totally brought it back to life.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It was like magic!!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38307/Babak Jahromi", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "WD 40 washes out the manufacturers high quality lube from the chain links so do not use it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38887/ERIC WESTERMAN", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Is WD-40 really bad to apply on bikes? I was told so but still see people doing that. Also I saw WD-40 launching their new products of bike lubricant and degreaser. Did anybody try those?", "title": "Can I use WD-40 on my bike?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<maintenance>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14372", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5947/Ian Song" }

[ [ "WD-40 can be used on bikes and it is great for getting stuck parts moving again. The reason it is generally not considered a good bicycle lubricant is because it is a light lubricant. However, the strength of WD-40 is that it is time efficient and cost efficient. There are some WD-40 bike specific lubricants and users do not have any complaints about them.", "WD-40's main product is a solvent and degreaser with some light lubricant mixed in. It can loosen seized parts and provide very limited lubrication and rust protection, but is too light to last and not suitable as a bike lubricant. In fact, it will remove lubricant that is already on the chain. Rather, it can be used to clear grease and grime before adding lubricant. The company does make good quality bike-specific lubricants and other products that can be used for their intended purpose, and they do have a good reputation for their cleaning and lubricating products." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [ "I don't have any experience with their bicycle-specific products, but they're a solid company that's been in the business of cleaning and lubricating mechanical parts for a long time.", "The wet lube held up well in a few nasty cyclocross races, and the dry lube is what I've been using on my \"indoor trainer\" bike.", "The reason it is generally not considered a good bicycle lubricant is because it is a light lubricant.", "They have a bike \"degreaser\", a bike \"foaming wash\" and two different chain lubricants, as well as a frame protectant.", "The strength of WD-40 is that it is time efficient and cost efficient.", "It's also said to \"rust proof\" items, but probably because of it's ability to displace water which commonly causes rust to form.", "Some people do use it for loosening up shifters in the winter time ( they stick when it's cold ) or cleaning chains and derailleurs.", "When you spray it on, the solvent dislodges whatever gunk may be causing the part to stick and then evaporates, leaving a light lubricant behind.", "It is a bit harsher than other bike specific de-greasers, or common house hold degreasers (like Simple Green ) that are often used by bike mechanics but essentially does the same thing." ] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "WD-40's main product is a solvent and degreaser with some light lubricant mixed in. It can loosen seized parts and provide very limited lubrication and rust protection, but is too light to last and not suitable as a bike lubricant. In fact, it will remove lubricant that is already on the chain. Rather, it can be used to clear grease and grime before adding lubricant. ", "The company does make good quality bike-specific lubricants and other products that can be used for their intended purpose, and they do have a good reputation for their cleaning and lubricating products." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The trick is to blow the water back up the tube and into the reservoir right after you take a drink.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This will keep your tube and bite valve from freezing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This works well even at below freezing temperatures when skiing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5371/Wadelp", "score": 22 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I see snowboarders with an insulating cover over the tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that doesn't provide enough insulation, I've worn my pack under my jacket leaving the entire pack, tube and bite valve covered and insulated.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Here is a 3 foot Hydration Pack Insulated Drink Tube Cover on amazon for $7 US", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2953/Glenn Gervais", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Keep the bladder as close to your skin as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This will help it utilize the same heat and insulation you are using.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Run the tube under your shoulder.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The area over your shoulder is more exposed to wind and will generally freeze faster.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After taking a drink, blow back into the tube to clear it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If there is no water in the tube, there is nothing to freeze.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Optional) Insulation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Many companies make neoprene or other styles of insulated covers for their drinking tubes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "While these can help maintain some warmth, they can also make finding and breaking up ice chunks difficult.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You don't need to completely clear a tube to drink from it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You just need to break the ice up some", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so the warmer water (from your back) can run through it and accelerate the thaw process.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Optional) Power.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is at least one company that makes an on demand heating system|water bladder.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It uses a battery pack and heating element throughout the whole tube to melt the tube even if it is completely frozen.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13710/Deleted User", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The tube has a lot of surface area and not a lot of volume, so it's going to lose heat quickly compared to the reservoir.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In addition to insulating the tube mentioned by Glenn Gervais you can start with hot water in the reservoir and frequently drink a little bit to keep reheating the tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "This Nordic skiing article discusses this technique in more detail.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could also try a Nordic skiing water bottle holder like the one in this (5 part!)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "article .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've noticed while skiing that a horizontal bottle seems stay ice free at the valve longer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "In a vertical holder, turning the bottle upside down also helps.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I've never tried this, but you might also try to keep the water in the reservoir warm by attaching a chemical hand/foot warmer to the outside of the bag.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Test it first to check that it won't damage the plastic bag, though I wouldn't expect something made to keep near your skin would get hot enough.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't put it in the bag though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it leaks it's probably dangerous to your health.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/510/Wayne Johnston", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Here's a summary of some the options I've found: Manual:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Blow back the water back in to your bladder to prevent freezing, this can cause your hydration reservoir to bulge though.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've also heard this can introduce bacteria to the bladder, making it get funky faster.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is less effective when you have a smaller amount of water in your bladder.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Use a compact reservoir and keep it under your jacket.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Run the tube under your jacket or down your arm under the jacket.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Keep it from being exposed when not in use.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Insulation: Neoprene insulation for your tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bag makers have their own more expansive insulated systems than just a tube cover.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Osprey insulated delivery system, which has a zip up cover for your valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Camelback has the Antidote Thermal Control Kit which includes a cap cover for the bite valve and neoprene tube cover.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Salomon makes a fully insluated hydration tube and bladder with bite valve cover for nordic skiing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Use foam packing material and tape to make an insulated sleeve for your bladder, to slow the cooling of water in the bladder itself.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Heat Managment:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fill your bladder with warm or room temp water, so it will take longer to cool down.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Add hand warmers to the pocket in your hydration pack where your bladder lives.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "May want to put this in a sock to prevent direct contact with the bladder.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This will keep the water around it warm, and prevent it from getting as cold so long as you keep drinking.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Chemical: Add a small amount of vodka to your water supply to prevent freezing by lowering the freezing point of the water.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not quite sure of the appropriate amount.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Add electrolyte tablets to water, which should in theory lower the freezing point of water a bit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Making it take longer for your water to freeze up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do not exceed the amount suggested by manufacturer of electrolyte tabs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not sure to what degree the freezing point would be lowered.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use rather warm water to start with by filling approx 1/3 of the bag with cold water and then the rest from the hot water dispenser in the lodge.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Going forward", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it’s", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "mostly a matter of remembering to drink enough regularly enough to replenish the warmth into the tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This temp change is obvious as you drink.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I’ve found that each chairlift ride seems to be perfect.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40840/David Rush", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Putting a little glycerol (aka \"glycerin\" or \"glycerine\") in the water will help.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Glycerol is edible, sweet to the taste.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It will do double duty by giving you a few extra calories, and lowering the freezing point of your solution because it acts as an antifreeze.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Because it's also bacteriostatic, unlike sucrose/glucose, it also shouldn't encourage microbial growth in the hydration system.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Unfortunately, sports drinks probably shouldn't contain more than about 8% carbohydrate , and an 8% glycerol solution will only give you about 1-1.5˚C extra headroom .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7263/sampablokuper", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Having a quick release in the hose can help a lot.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Generally, just the valve end freezes and the quick release allows you to get a drink.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Click the system back together and stick the frozen end in your jacket.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Generally it thaws in a few minutes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The insulated hoses don't do all that much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "By far the best solution is the packs in which the hose is entirely enclosed in the pack strap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Backcountry Access Stash packs are a example.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8445/Fred the Magic Wonder Dog", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Some hydration packs (such as Source Hydration Systems ) have a wider diameter than others and/or an insulated tube cover.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Both of those can help keep water from freezing in the tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Disclaimer: I am associated with Source Hydration Systems.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8437/Peter Sam", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I like to ride with a hydration pack when I mountain bike in the winter since all sorts of nasty stuff gets tossed up at my bottles. However, I've had issues with the tube or valve getting clogged due to the water inside freezing during rides in the low 20s Fahrenheit (roughly -5°C). It's really hard to deal with this issue while you're out in the woods. Is there anything I can do to prevent this from freezing so quickly?", "title": "How to keep my hydration pack tubes and valve from freezing?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<winter><hydration>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14740", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo" }

[ [ "The trickto preventing water from freezing in winter is to blow the water back up the tube and into the reservoir right after taking a drink. Many companies make neoprene or other styles of insulated covers for their drinking tubes. In fact, Salomon makes a fully insluated hydration tube and bladder with bite valve cover for nordic skiing. If that doesn't provide enough insulation, wearing the pack under your jacket and leaving the entire pack, tube and bite valve covered and insulated works. The bladder can be filled with warm or room temp water, so it will take longer to cool down. Moreover, a small amount of vodka, electrolyte tablets or glycerol can be added to your water supply to prevent freezing by lowering the freezing point of the water. ", "The tube is more likely to freeze than the bladder due to the surface area, so drink regularly enough that the water does not freeze in the tube, and blow the water back into the bladder after taking a sip. Some products insulate the tube, or you can cover it or run it close to your body to keep it warm. The bladder can also be insulated or filled with warm water to prevent freezing. This warm water will also help to keep the water in the tube from freezing. Hand warmers can be placed next to the bladder to keep it warm. Adding something like electrolyte tablets or glycerol to the water can lower the freezing point." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "The tube is more likely to freeze than the bladder due to the surface area, so rink regularly enough that the water does not freeze in the tube, and blow the water back into the bladder after taking a sip.", "Some products insulate the tube, or you can cover it or run it close to your body to keep it warm.", "The bladder can also be insulated or filled with warm water to prevent freezing. This warm water will also help to keep the water in the tube from freezing. Hand warmers can be placed next to the bladder to keep it warm.", "Adding something like electrolyte tablets or glycerol to the water can lower the freezing point." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Advice in book Racing Weight by Matt Fitzgerald goes something like this, paraphrased: Yes, training without carbohydrates will train your body to use stored fat better.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But your capacity to train will go down (not enough fuel!), and net result will be less improvement.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It references this study , which compares two groups of athletes on hi-carb and low-carb diet during a hard training block.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One of the general themes of the book is, you want to improve your performance and body composition, not your weight per se.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/679/Pēteris Caune", "score": 17 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Exercise is fuelled by a combination of carbohydrate and fat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In theory, if you exercise while your body is deprived of carbohydrate it will become better at utilising fat for energy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I know some running coaches advocate this approach for marathon training: Any carbohydrates ingested will be used by the body for fuel, and we don't want this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "We want to deny the body carbohydrates in these runs so that the muscles will become better at sparing the carbohydrate stores, more efficient at burning fat and used to running with lowered blood glucose levels.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Now, many people think I'm crazy when I say this, but it works.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally, I wouldn't do it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a lot of pain for what is probably a very small gain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're looking to wring every last bit of performance out of your body", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's worth trying though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The short answer is \"No\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Intermittent fasting is not all about weight loss, although it can help with that, apparently without compromising performance .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's research showing that this approach can increase the effect of training, in particular VO2 Max , which is often of interest to cyclists.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For example Adaptations to skeletal muscle with endurance exercise training in the acutely fed versus overnight-fasted state.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The FAST group showed a significantly greater training-induced increase in VO(2max) and resting muscle glycogen concentration than FED (P=0.014 and P=0.047 respectively), but there was no gender interaction.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This blog post is a few years old, but discussed the detail of a study comparing fasting or fed regimes in training.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are also claims of long-term health improvements", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I think these are less well-studied, but there is some relevant research .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It does also help to lose weight, or improve power-to-weight ratio , although that may not be of interest to the OP.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're actually thinking of doing it, one of the essential points is to have a good recovery meal after training.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I ride mornings in a fasted state", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and i believe it has helped, not just in terms of weight but also endurance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This type of exercise should not be high intensity just moderate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is a scientific study that looked into this it was referenced in this NY Times blog article: http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/12/15/phys-ed-the-benefits-of-exercising-before-breakfast/", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6824/Jonny", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's not just fat utilization but also glycogen, a chemical resembling starch that is stored in the liver and also directly in the muscles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't know the ideal conditions for doing so, but the muscles can be \"trained\" to store more glycogen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(In part this is what causes muscles to \"bulk up\".)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Presumably training in conditions where the blood glucose level is low would help to \"train\" the muscles to store glycogen, though this would be a long-term thing, over months, not something to work on a few days before a big ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "And glycogen is important not only because it can help to fuel muscles several hours into a long ride, after blood glucose is exhausted, but also because it can help provide \"peak energy\" even when one is well-fed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Note that burning fat directly in the muscles is quite inefficient and can lead to \"ketosis\", causing a sense of fatigue and loss of mental acuity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fat is more efficiently \"burned\" in the liver, but the rate of fat processing by the liver is insufficient to support a sustained high-energy effort.)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It needs to be remembered that there is a lot of really crappy advice out there, often from \"experts\", re nutrition.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably 80% is bogus.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In particular, many \"experts\" who talk about \"burning fat\" have probably never even heard of glycogen.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My \"expert\" opinion is informed by having a genetic disorder (myoadenylate deaminase deficiency) that affects how muscles use energy, so I've taken interest in these topics for decades.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I believe the intensity level of training should be further considered; it's ok to take a walk first thing in the morning on an empty stomach, but an interval training session would probably be counter-productive.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6816/lucaPost", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Preparing for a 100mile ride in August I was thinking of following a training plan which came in a \"Sportive Guide\" given away with Cycling Plus magazine this month. Some of the days on the plan mention training for an hour before breakfast in order to burn fat. Is this just about losing weight? (If so, I'm pretty sure I don't need to since I'm 6ft tall and weigh about 67kg) Or is there some reason that training before breakfast is somehow better?", "title": "Training fasted: just about weight loss?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<training><fitness><nutrition>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15343", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5820/kevtufc" }

[ [ "Training before breakfast is advocated for training the muscles to use fat stores for energy. This process takes some time to develop, so the practice needs to be maintained for some time.It is a practice essentially used for weight loss and endurance training. There are some disadvantages though as the person may feel fatigued and lose mental alertness due to low blood sugar. mOREOVER, When implementing this type of training, it is important to have a good recovery meal after.", "The idea is probably to train the body to burn fat rather than carbohydrates, and to store more glycogen. In theory, this should help the body to use fat for energy and have more stamina, while also contributing to weight loss. This can help in a number of ways, but it is a longer term strategy and it is important to eat afterwards. This might also be more effective with low or moderate intensity exercise to avoid fatigue." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The idea is probably to train the body to burn fat rather than carbohydrates, and to store more glycogen. In theory, this should help the body to use fat for energy and have more stamina, while also contributing to weight loss. However, this method could lead to increased tiredness", "This can help in a number of ways, but it is a longer term strategy and it is important to eat afterwards. This might also be more effective with low or moderate intensity exercise to avoid fatigue." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Just verified that the 510 can be attached to power while on/in use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It continues to operate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When the external power source is removed, it will give a message to that effect, but does not power down (like the nuvi/car versions do).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Note that you (obviously) have to open the weather seal to plug in power.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also worth noting, the 510 will go into a different mode when you plug it into a computer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Unsure if it will continue to record, but the screen shows the computer attached so suspect not.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For long trips like you describe, a device like these http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=phone+battery+backup should do the trick.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1036/Ken Hiatt", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Garmin Edge 800, 810 and 1000 can be charged when exercise is active.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can use for example power bank or usb dynamo charger (ie.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Busch&Muller E-werk, Luxos U light or Supernova The Plug).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is not recommended to charge anything with usb when it is raining.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also note that Garmin 1000's plug is in the bottom so cable might not fit when device is mounted on handlebar.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7554/Pete Marsh", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use the Garmin 800 and an external battery with USB output.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The Garmin will keep running for days like that, with no backlight BUT the data recordingcannot cope with a 24 hour bike ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On my last two 24 hour cycle events, the Garmin corrupted the activity file at around 23 hours which was somewhat 'annoying'.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have tested it on distance, with car journeys, and it can cope with 650km in 12 hours.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But cycling 560km in 24 hours is not feasible, it seems.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably too many data points.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You should stop the timing at 12 hours, reset, and start a new 12 hour session.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12895/GLaming", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I just completed a 300K brevet last weekend and my Garmin 500 ran out of juice about 2 miles from the end of the 190 miles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "18 hours.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just tried to plug it into an external battery that will charge phones and the Garmin 500, but the Garmin will not operate while plugged in and charging.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Note this is the Garmin 500, not the 510.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A friend used an 810 on the ride charging through an external battery on the same ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10806/Thomas", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes you can charge the Edge 500 whilst riding at the same time, and record your ride as well. http://www.joewein.net/blog/2013/03/04/garmin-edge-usb-power-hack/", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13462/Fandango68", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A generic USB cable will have the Edge switch to storage mode", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "but I've found the Garmin cables allow charging whilst using.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have an external battery pack which I used on day-long back-country rides in the alps and could plug it in whilst on a chairlift or at a bar without interrupting the tracking.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Arguably I didn't need to", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but it does mean that when I get a USB dynamo hub I have the cable ready to go.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13410/atlaz", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "as far as i understand it all garmins will charge off any cable/charger combination except for the Edge 500...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "basically the cable needs to have pins 4 and 5 grounded to earth", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "not just pin 4, so a normal sync cable will not work you need a special charge cable, not content with paying the £12 for a usb cable for this particular use, i made my own by cutting the head off a normal lead and attaching a new head on it readily available off ebay for a few £.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "obviously this requires very good soldering skills to achieve the other option", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is link pins 4 and 5 together on the back of the garmin with a small bit of cable, i found a small length of the copper wire from an ethernet cable worked best, but is a pain to get in and out", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and you have", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "ot take it out to sync with computer or it just doesnt recognise the computer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28709/Richard", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I can confirm that the garmin 910XT watch is also able to be recharged while recording an activity, the display changes to charging & its %", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so no information, the Garmin 500 cant be recharge as it will reset any activity unless there is a setting that I haven't seen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10408/user10408", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I charge mine when on very long bike rides - but when the external power source also dies the Garmin automatically powers down unless you tap the X on the screen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Really wish that Garmin would use bigger batteries!!!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20268/user20268", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes, it can.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just did 200 mile ride and my Garmin Edge 800 charged fine when I plugged in my power brick after about 9 hours while riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Charged it right up", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I lost no data.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26802/Coggs", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Extended battery life is very neccesary for using the device on long brevets and multi-day endurance racing. Can Garmin Edge cycling GPS units 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding via external battery pack like or USB dynamo charger? Can you plug in while riding? Are only certain devices able to charge the unit while it's recording / navigating?", "title": "Can Garmin Edge 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<gps><maps><navigation>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15420", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo" }

[ [ "The Garmin 510 can be attached to power while on/in use and the Garmin Edge 800, 810 and 1000 can also be charged when exercise is active. However, it is important to note that it is not recommended to charge anything with usb when it is raining.", "This is possible, but it will go into a different mode if you connect it to the computer (or in some cases, use a generic USB cable). Connecting the cable requires opening the weather seal, so avoid this when in rain. The Garmin will record while charging, but will give a notification without pausing if the power source is removed. While this can be used long term, the Garmin is unable to record for longer than 24 hours." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is possible, but it will go into a different mode if you connect it to the computer (or in some cases, use a generic USB cable). Connecting the cable requires opening the weather seal, so avoid this when in rain.", "The Garmin will record while charging, but will give a notification without pausing if the power source is removed. While this can be used long term, the Garmin is unable to record for longer than 24 hours." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Those end-caps are quite reusable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you take a pair of pliers and squeeze it gently so that the flattened portion opens up you can then slide it back onto the cable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Using the pliers you can then re-crimp it on the cable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Although it looks ugly and everyone will know that you are too cheap to buy a 10c end-cap.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A little bit of superglue placed at the end of the cut seems to help keep the individual wires from separating.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4015/Ritch Melton", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could maybe cut it where it is not frayed and put a cap if the slack is long enough.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Or you could put a piece of duct tape just to avoid the fraying from reaching a place interfere with the derailleur.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or you could try to gather the frayed-out strings and put a cap anyway Or if you really don't like it", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": ", you can change the cable completely though it is overkill.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5526/tisek", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you have an unneeded old wheel laying around, use a spoke nipple.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Remove the nipple from the spoke slide it over the cable and crimp with pliers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have successfully used A tiny bit of epoxy glue.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another option is a bit of tin soldering wire: give it a couple of tight loops around the end of the cable then squash it with pliers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tin is soft enough to be defformed around the cable without deforming the cable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Yet another option is to use an actual soldering iron to cover the very last centimeter of cable with tin.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is quite difficult to solder the end of the already installed cable though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the cable is not too badly frayed it can be de-frayed with pliers, grabbing all the strands and twisting it in the right direction.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Do it before applying the cap end substitute.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've used a cable crimp.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It looked terrible but it prevent the cable from unravelling before I got to the bike shop to discover that a bike shop will usually give you those end caps if you buy something else from the store.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The shops have them in the thousands and they probably paid about $3 for them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6474/Josh Smith", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've used these cable connectors before...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "you just break one off and screw it over the cable end.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They work great and look pretty \"impressive\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20344/Freddie S", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could use some heat shrink tubing ( example ) to keep the frayed cable together.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you don't have a heat gun, most heat shrink tubing can be shrunk with a hot hair dryer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22576/Adam", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In a pinch, use wirenuts .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They're available at hardware stores.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The smaller ones work better as a cable end-cap.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2123/Jim Fred", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you have slack in the cable, cut the frayed end and cap as usual.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you don't have enough slack, use JB Weld to prevent further unraveling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Work it into the fibers, and wrap with duct tape to hold tight while it cures.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7099/Jonathan", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Cut a bit of cable housing, peel the plastic, and squeeze as you would a conventional cap (using more force, though).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Doesn't look bad but is no substitute for actual end caps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22535/emagar", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I was adjusting the tension of my front derailleur cable and managed to pop off the cable end cap. The cable is now quite frayed at the end and I think it would be difficult to attach another cap. What would work as a suitable replacement for a cap? I've read that perhaps superglue or duct tape could work?", "title": "What is a good replacement for a cable end cap?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<cable>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15930", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6182/Robert Dougan" }

[ [ "End-caps are quite reusable. If the cable is not too badly frayed it can be de-frayed with pliers, grabbing all the strands and twisting it in the right direction. A little bit of superglue placed at the end of the cut seems to help keep the individual wires from separating. Other options include using a soldering iron, using the spoke nipple from an old wheel, a cable crimp or epoxy glue, ", "It may be possible to replace the cap or use another if you repair the frayed part. Superglue or twisting can be used to keep the ends together, or you can cut off the frayed part or even replace the cable. Other options include sealing the end with superglue, epoxy or solder, covering with electrical cable sheath or heat shrink tubing or using a cable crimp or cable connectors." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It may be possible to replace the cap or use another if you repair the frayed part. Superglue or twisting can be used to keep the ends together, or you can cut off the frayed part or even replace the cable.", "Other options include sealing the end with superglue, epoxy or solder, covering with electrical cable sheath or heat shrink tubing or using a cable crimp or cable connectors." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "By this do you mean pedalling when unnecessary (and without increasing the bike's speed), for example, on descents?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I will do this on long descents just to keep my legs turning over and to prevent them getting too cold.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But I will mix it with coasting.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is a theory that keeping the legs moving will keep your blood flowing and help pump lactic acid out of the muscles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I can go along with this as I've felt the benefit, or at least I think I have.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've also heard it argued that it's advantageous as regards making your technique smoother, but I don't think that's particularly proven.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But no personal experience, I've never really concentrated on my technique to that extent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Further, you can talk to racing cyclists who will often say that soft pedalling is preferred when riding in a peloton, purely because coasting implies to other people that you're about to hit the brakes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Again, no personal experience.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know some of the regulars on here are either racers or ex-racers, maybe they can confirm?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In terms of speed (or power) surely it makes no difference, purely by the definition of \"soft pedalling\"?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4808/PeteH", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In addition to the response provided by PeteH, I use \"soft pedaling\" when coasting to a stop on my downtube shifter/derailleur-equipped road bike in order to change gears before a stop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some bikes (such as those with internal hubs) do not need any chain motion to shift gears, but my bike does.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That's the only concrete reason why I would employ this technique, outside of the points outlined by PeteH.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6947/Stephen Lynch", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When riding in a group you often find that small changes of speed can mean that you do not need to pedal when it slows down and have small bursts of power when it speeds up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "By soft pedaling when the group slows down your legs will already be spinning when its speeds up again.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5247/robthewolf", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have often heard, and I agree, that the \"muscular pump\" is partly responsible for higher blood flow to specific muscle regions during activity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The reason is that between muscular contractions the difference in pressure is such as to draw blood from the arterial side to the venous side.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is a hypothesis and has not been conclusively proved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That may be the reason why some athletes do it, and others don't.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cassey, Darren; Hunt, Emma (2008), \"Cardiovascular function in humans during exercise: role of the muscle pump\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The muscle pump raises muscle blood flow during locomotion.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Clifford PS, Hamann JJ, Valic Z, Buckwalter JB.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Counterpoint:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The muscle pump is not an important determinant of muscle blood flow during exercise.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "J Appl Physiol.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "2005", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Jul;99(1):372-4", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7106/anaheim", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Although I'm sure it's not the same, in MTB I use a very brief lapse of smooth pedalling while downshifting in a difficult ascent, it helps reducing noise and wear in the gearset.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I accelerate a little before the shift, then, as I actuate the shifter I pedal without load relying on inertia.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I feel the new gear is fully engaged I resume normal pedalling.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is also used when after a fast descent comes a very steep ascent, as you would normally be in a very long (hard) gear, soft pedalling is used to make sure you have the proper (selected) gear engaged when you need it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is specially useful when the bottom of this kind of transition has technical terrain that would make it impossible to keep all the momentum, forcing you to reduce speed a lot but not to stop nor dismount.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Just based on personal experience.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No to all your questions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Jacques", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anquetil, when time trialing, was rumored to incorporate a soft pedal", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "stroke every few revolutions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With his smooth pedaling and only archival vintage video it's hard to tell.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Could be baloney like the special oxygenated recovery beverage the Soviet track cyclist used.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7100/WabiFGSS", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Is there any advantage to soft pedaling over coasting? Does it provide any power to moving forward? Is there any aid it gives to your leg muscles recovering?", "title": "What's the purpose of soft pedaling?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<road-bike><downhill>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16059", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1693/WireGuy" }

[ [ "Soft pedalling is a technique generally used on long descents. One purpose is to keep the muscles working so that they do not get cold.It also ensures your legs are already spinning when it is time to pedal again. Moreover, it is a technique used to ensure you are in the correct gear when the descent comes to an end.", "This does not add power, but could help to keep your legs from getting cold and keep blood flowing to the muscles. It also prepares you to start pedalling again, especially when in a group. It can also help to reduce noise from the gears and help you to transition to the right gear or new terrain." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "This does not add power, but could help to keep your legs from getting cold and keep blood flowing to the muscles. It also prepares you to start pedalling again, especially when in a group.", "It can also help to reduce noise from the gears and help you to transition to the right gear or new terrain." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "In my experience, most light work can be done with the bike stored upside down (standing on the handlebars and seat).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about a road bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Other bikes, like a mountainbike with a twist-shifters or trigger-shifting, might not be as well suited.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7118/user2432675", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Before I bought a bike stand, I used the bike rack on my car.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I still use it in a pinch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/346/Brian Genisio", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have two large hooks attached to my basement ceiling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I attach a 1 inch cargo strap (look for them in camping supplies) from the hook to my saddle and a second around the bars and stem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This suspends the bike while allowing the wheels and crank to spin freely.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "By adjusting the strap length I can position the bike so the area being worked on is close to eye level.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The hooks were less than $3 and the straps were $3 each.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have double kickstand on the bike which can act as mini repair stand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I pull the bike on the kickstand, and put some weight (u-lock and chain) on the front of the bike so it tilts forward and back wheel gets lifted in the air.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5563/Davorin Ruševljan", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Here is a cheap ($20) bike stand that elevates the rear wheel:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bracket-Bicycle-Display-Stand/dp/B000C17HJ4 Note that it works best with thinner-tubed steel bikes, and doesn't necessarily hold up a bike with a thick aluminum downtube optimally.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5702/Alan Gerber", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Turn the bike upside down and clamp the handle bar stem in the jaws of a WorkMate workbench and rest the seat on the opposite end of the WorkMate work surface.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Turning the seat around backwards on its stem may be helpful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14621/Lincoln Webster", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use two high chairs (with straight backrest) With one or two broomsticks inbetween them to hold the bike up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/52666/user52666", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My solution for this is a kickstand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It keeps the bicycle upright with both wheels on the ground.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you need to adjust the gears, you can slightly tilt the bicycle to stand only on the kickstand and not on the rear wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Then the rear wheel is free to rotate, but it requires continuously keeping the bicycle in the slightly tilted position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a one-handed job though, so the other hand is free to rotate the cranks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't put too high stress on the kickstand though or else you may be looking for a new frame, as you accidentally bent the chainstays of the old frame!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33932/juhist", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A cheap solution is a wall-mounted bike holding stand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The simple ones are just a couple of prongs that stick out from the wall and support the top tube of your bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Something like this is $US40 or you can get fancy with this (will work better with sloping top tubes)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I suspect you could build one out of a 1.5m length of timber and some screws quite easily, although attaching it to the wall would require a little care.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The rope-based hanging bike storage systems also work well for this if you can put up with the bike swinging round.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Those allow better access, but the bike moves.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A solid wall mount won't move but you have to take the bike down and flip it round to access the other side, and you can't turn the handlebars much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/Móż", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I want to tweak my gears, from time to time: Adjust my front and rear derailleur limits, see if the shifts are smooth, make small adjustments on the cable tension, and so on. Is there any way to get the bike in position without help of anyone? I don't want to spend money on a bike stand.", "title": "How to position a bike for work without a stand", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<gears>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16103", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6999/danieltorres" }

[ [ "Most light work can be done with the bike stored upside down (standing on the handlebars and seat). However, the kickstand can also be used to hold the bike while you work. Other options include large hooks in the ceiling and a wall-mounted bike holding stand.", "You can use a double kickstand or turn the bike upside down, resting it on the handlebars. The bike can be suspended from hooks on the ceiling or rested on a solid wall mount, turning it around to work on the other side." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "You can use a double kickstand or turn the bike upside down, resting it on the handlebars.", "The bike can be suspended from hooks on the ceiling", "You can also use a solid wall mount, turning it around to work on the other side." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "This is a late answer I know, but I've found a solution to the rattling problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've had an Abus 6500 for nearly 3 years now and the rattling always annoyed me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I used to wrap a kind of nylon strap between the lock as I folded it and that partly solved it, although most of the rattle was coming from the joints themselves.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It was only just today when I thought of this: I sprayed some chain oil, the type that comes in a spray can, into the joints, between the bars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As you may know, this oil is very liquid when sprayed but soon solidifies as the solvent evaporates.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This allows it to get right into the joint and GREATLY reduce rattle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is inevitably some that runs onto the parts you need to touch so a bit of cleaning up afterwards is necessary but the result for me is just astounding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just wish I'd thought of it 3 years ago!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19101/Sean", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I complained about the noise to ABUS and they told me they will substitute them, asap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a design/factory problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10289/Nuno", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I made judicious use of little 10mm o-rings on my Abus.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No more rattles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/41886/Steven Skilton", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Mine just arrived and I mounted it to my frame just like the picture above (though, my lock looks slightly different...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "still the x-plus.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It rattles just like every other attachment on my bicycle (including the chain when it's not taut).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I think it's quite normal...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it does have movable parts, after all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I bet the rattling can be dampened by using a small felt pad wrapped around it or between the links, but I haven't tried this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally, the rattling doesn't bother me because I'm so focused on the ride and just being out on the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you carry a bag, putting it in there would probably stifle much of the rattle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Using a messenger bag would lower the load's center of gravity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As for a bolt coming loose, if you can't fit anything of much strength (more than tweezers?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "between the bolt and the link, it's probably not too loose.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can't see these links just falling apart in my own lock anyway...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so unless you notice a significant separation, I bet the lock is fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Incidentally, did you mount it using the velcro straps or by screwing it into the frame using the mounting points?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you use the screws, it's possible that the lock is bumping against them causing the rattle, but then again, shaking the lock in my hand without other metal also produces a slight rattle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you try using the velcro to mount instead, perhaps the rattle will be reduced?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6994/Matt", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's normal for the lock itself to rattle if you shake it, especially when it's folded up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, I have an earlier model of the lock, and mine doesn't rattle audibly when it's in the rubber carrying case: the case is tight enough to stop it rattling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's possible that Abus have made the case a little looser in newer versions, to make it easier to insert and remove the lock.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Is it definitely the lock rattling, rather than the case itself?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The case has a metal plate that the bottle-cage bolts sit against, and if one of them is slightly loose, the weight of the lock would cause the case to rattle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Try tightening the screws.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Alternatively, it could be that when inside the case, the lock is in contact with a bike component (such as the mounting for the front derailleur) and that's causing the rattle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a second mounting point, it might be worth trying that to avoid wear to the fouled component.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3512/Dan Hulme", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "All Bordo locks rattle no matter", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "what in the water bottle mount, what I do is put it in my under seat saddlebag and put my wallet and cell phone ontop of it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It won't rattle that way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26677/user26677", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I have the latest Abus Bordo Granite X-Plus 6500 folding lock: It is cased inside a rubberized pouch that attaches to one of the bottle-cage locations: Very convenient, but sadly, it rattles while riding on an uneven surface , which can get quite annoying, and does not make for a smooth ride. Firstly, is that normal, or is something wrong? (Has one of the bolts come looser than it should be?) Secondly, how do I prevent this from happening?", "title": "Is it normal that the Abus Bordo folding lock rattles?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<noise><lock>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16156", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6678/Baumr" }

[ [ "The ratle in the ABUS is a design/factory problem. Cyclist seem to notice the rattle more or less. Some suggestions for stopping it are tightening the screws, wrapping a nylon strap between the lock and putting it in a messenger bag. Apparently, if you complain to the company, they will replace it.", "The lock rattles when shaken and also when mounted, so it may be that the joints are quite loose and the case has extra space. If the mounting screws are loose or the lock hits part of the bike while in movement, this will add to the noise and should be corrected. Wrapping fabric between moving parts or oiling the joints could help, or the lock could be placed in a bag or mounted to the bike with velcro." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "The lock rattles when shaken and also when mounted, so it may be that the joints are quite loose and the case has extra space. If the mounting screws are loose or the lock hits part of the bike while in movement, this will add to the noise and should be corrected.", "Wrapping fabric between moving parts or oiling the joints could help, or the lock could be placed in a bag or mounted to the bike with velcro." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Use proper positioning.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is most important.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Unless the outermost lane is as wide as two SUVs , ride in its center.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When it's safe, reasonable and necessary to let drivers pass, kindly move over; but always leave at least 18 inches (0.5 m) between you and the curb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The driver behind you may have to wait a minute or two, but they'll survive.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If they've waited a few minutes, be nice and pull over.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Adapted mainly from Wikipedia citing Cyclecraft .)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Paradoxically, correct positioning will stop most drivers from buzzing you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Correct positioning can be scary, but does get easier .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's more to vehicular cycling.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You must read more about lane release .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also read \"Street Smarts\" online: either the American edition or left-hand-drive edition .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want, you can also read Cyclecraft , or take a class , or watch some videos.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Can anyone recommend some videos?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On rare occasions, drivers may still buzz you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To prevent this: Use a safety flag.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A spring-mounted one: e.g. a Flash Flag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "( Source. )", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It must be spring-mounted, so that it can bend easily if hit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(If you can't afford a flag: Maybe you could use a dollar-store pool noodle plus a washable marker pen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "See here. )", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or use a doll.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Put a baby-sized doll in a trailer or rear-mounted carrier.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "About attempted murder: If a driver ever intentionally endangers your life, note down the license plate number, location, time, and date.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "If you value your safety, don't touch the driver's car.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Contact", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "a cop : preferably immediately; but better later than never.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This post is marked as community wiki.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Please add to it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3674/unforgettableidSupportsMonica", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Cars overtaking too closely is often down to the width of the road ( ref ): For a cyclist to be safely overtaken, the width required depends upon the width of the overtaking vehicle but in general a lane width of 4m is needed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For widths of between 3 and 4m the cyclist will be 'squeezed'.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Road widths", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "less than 3m ensure the overtaking vehicle must wait behind the cyclist.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's a more detailed discussion of road width and overtaking on humantransport.org .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The diagram below shows distances in feet: If you can choose a route with wide roads then you're unlikely to be overtaken in a dangerous manner.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Roads with (", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "at least) 2 lanes each way usually work well if the lanes are narrow enough that cars have to change lane to overtake you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On narrower roads you can discourage dangerous overtaking by positioning yourself correctly (see this question on Claiming The Lane ).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you position yourself at least 0.5m from the edge of the road you will have a little bit of room to manoeuvre if you are overtaken dangerously.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You can wobble strategically , or ride without a helmet and dress so as to appear as a woman from behind .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sources: Linked above, as you can see.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The summary from the British study, from the source .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3985/Zippy The Pinhead", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You won't be able to stop this completely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There will be always car drivers how try to pass you, no matter what.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, there are things you can do about this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most car drivers usually let enough space between you and the car, if possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So they will likely pass you closer when:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The road is narrow There is oncoming traffic Now", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", you have a few strategies to encounter this situations: Riding more in the middle of the your lane so the car behind you can't pass you unless there is more space or no oncoming traffic Riding very right (when right-side traffic, otherwise left)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "so cars can pass you without problems Stop and let the car pass Personally", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I prefer option 1 in the cities, because cars will have enough time to see you and slow down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You still have enough space to ride to the side in risky situations to increase the space between you and the car.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "2 is more risky in cities because it kind of invites cars to pass you close.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I usually to this on broad highways, because there most cars newer slow down to wait to pass you (at least in my experience).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I do option 3 on narrow roads with oncoming traffic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These are usually side roads with few traffic anyway.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't like to stop, but in the end I will get hurt if a car hits me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6299/Uooo", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When I ride, I usually wear a little rearview mirror attachment on my glasses that allow me to see traffic behind me.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If I see a vehicle approaching", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I don't get the sense that they see me", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I'll actually crane my head around", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so it's very obvious that I've spotted them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most drivers will notice you if you do that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(obviously not to take away from the very thorough and technical answer by @unforgettableld - just a trick a friend taught me).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7069/Ben Collins", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Recently, a driver buzzed by me, leaving just a couple of inches between my handlebars and his car. It was very scary. In general, how can I prevent cars from passing me too closely? Please cite sources.", "title": "How can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><commuter><technique><urban-riding><bike-vs-car>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16215", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3674/unforgettableidSupportsMonica" }

[ [ "To avoid cars overtaking too closely when riding a bike, most cyclists recommend riding in the middle of the lane or at least 0.5m away from the road edge. This has the double advantage of discouraging cars from overtaking unless there is room and affording you a little extra room if a car decides to overtake dangerously. Some cyclists also recommend carrying a safety flag. ", "Choose suitable roads with space to pass and position yourself away from the edge to discourage dangerous overtaking and allow room to maneuver. Use a flag or other object to indicate safe passing distance.Use a rearview mirror. Record details of the car, time and place in the event of dangerous driving." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Choose suitable roads with space to pass and position yourself away from the edge to discourage dangerous overtaking and allow room to maneuver.", "Use a flag or other object to indicate safe passing distance.", "Use a rearview mirror.", "Record details of the car, time and place in the event of dangerous driving." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I alternated tubulars and clinchers (different wheelsets) on my commuter bike for over a year and it was clear that I had fewer punctures with tubulars.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In fact, I have so few punctures that I have to reglue tires after a year or so since the glue dries up. YMMV.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "when a tubular does flat, you almost never get a catastrophic deflation (bang), you get slow leaks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "if you're careful you can ride on a flat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I finished the last mile (uphill) of a race on a flat.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "they are more comfortable, especially when cornering because of the suppleness of the side walls.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you can get a sub 1500 gram wheelset for well under $500 (Campy Record and Mavic Reflex).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Try that with clinchers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tubular wheelsets are generally much lighter than clinchers. if you do get a slow leak, tufo or stan's tire sealant will almost certainly fix it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now all of my bikes run tubulars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For my commuter bike I use Tufos which last forever despite the broken glass that you inevitably see on roads.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For racing Veloflex are superb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And as was mentioned tubulars dominate the cyclocross scene.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Once you get the hang of gluing, it's not really a big deal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The main disadvantage in cyclocross is that you need multiple wheelsets to be able to shift tires on short notice due to weather changes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Dry vs mud, say, requires two completely different treads.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally, for most places in the US you have little choice but to buy your tubulars off the web since the LBS is unlikely to stock them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "See: http://www.worldclasscycles.com/tubulars.htm", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7663/JohnS", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I also got a set of tubular rims with an old vintage racing bike", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I've stuck with them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't find them to be a hassle, but gluing does take a little technique and practice to be able to do it neatly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think most people who haven't done it are afraid of the gluing, but if you like to tinker with things its not difficult.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "With sealant, I rarely have to change tires, so I find myself gluing a new rear tire about once every 2k miles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can find tubular road tires at bike shops and online at places like: http://www.biketiresdirect.com/search/tubular-road-tires http://www.competitivecyclist.com/components/tires.39.html and others", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm sure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "What you'll find is there aren't as many sizes and brands as clincher tires, but there is a decent selection.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The two tires I'm riding on right now, and the two hanging in my garage have come off of eBay.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4015/Ritch Melton", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Tubular tires are very common in cyclecross; their construction and the way they mount to the rim make it possible to run a lower tire pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5161/Eric Gunnerson", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Tubular tyres are still popular with racers and many others.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "It is most certainly not true to say that no shop has them or that they are not used these days.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One of their most overlooked advantages is that carbon wheels for tubs are cheaper than their equivalents for clinchers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally, I love riding tubulars and only use clinchers on my indoor training bicycle!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7483/VaVaVeteran", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've only ridden on tubs, have not had a flat in 25 years", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "and I find the gluing process zen like.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Never used the tape.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have veloflex Carbon tubs on carbon rims on my Cervelo and various tubs Vittoria, gommitalia, contis, challenge etc on 19 vintage Italian bikes that I ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Mind you those Italian Steels are babied, not ridden on gravel!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am religious about tire pressure and inspecting the tubs after each ride, pulling out glass shards etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I also let some air out to rest the tubs after each ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can check out some of my collection .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25429/iRydstl", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I bought an older second-hand racing bike, which has tubular tires mounted. I went to a bike shop and wanted to buy a spare tubular tire, but they told me: Wow, such an old bike! No, we don't have tubular tires. No shop has them. They are not used anymore nowadays. Instead, use an inner tube an a tire. Is that true? If so, why?", "title": "Are tubular tires still used today?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16893", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6299/Uooo" }

[ [ "Tubular tires are still available and are popular with racers and cyclecross. Many people prefer them, one reason being they seem to puncture less often but, in the US, they usually have to be bought online as few local bike shops do not stock them. ", "Tubulars tend to have fewer punctures than clinchers, and are often used in cyclocross. They also have a following among racers. Disadvantages include difficulty switching tyres and finding them in local bike shops. Some people worry about the gluing, but it is not difficult with some practice. One benefit of tubulars for racers is that carbon wheels designed for them are cheaper." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Tubulars tend to have fewer punctures than clinchers, and are often used in cyclocross. They also have a following among racers. Disadvantages include difficulty switching tyres and finding them in local bike shops.", "Some people worry about the gluing, but it is not difficult with some practice.", "One benefit of tubulars for racers is that carbon wheels designed for them are cheaper." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "A good safe biking distance is the distance that one can enjoy the bike ride to work, get there a few minutes early to clean up or shower and after work enjoy another bike ride home and still spare some time to spend with family/ loved ones/have a life besides work and the commute.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I limit my bike commute to about an hour each way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7416/Akshay", "score": 17 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It would depend on a lot of things, such as terrain, weather, traffic etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are not sure, simply ride a few kilometers and you would be in a position to guess.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Safety hazards increase as you get tired, it will affect your judgment and reaction speed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can get a guess on that by doing some trial riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One thing that is for sure is that the more you ride, the safer you will feel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Your body will adapt to cycling and you will feel less tired day-by-day, and be more confident about yourself on the streets.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7779/Arijit Dasgupta", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Other answers have touched on this but not explicitly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The main safety point I would say is how you ride when you're tired.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're exhausted and can't keep a straight line up a busy hill, don't think to look over your shoulder in time etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", that's bad and getting dangerous.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "tiredness can really hit your judgement and reaction times.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise it depends on your starting level of fitness and facilities in work more than safety.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I started from an occasional leisure ride by riding the 9-10 mile each way commute once a week for a couple of weeks, then twice, but not consecutive days.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now I'll happily do 4 days in a week if it fits in, and would try every day but haven't had the chance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would say that the bike doesn't make that much difference at the scale of your ride or mine - with the obvious caveat that it fits reasonably well and isn't in a terrible condition or something weird.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's OK on a cruiser it will be better on a road bike or hybrid (my choice for urban riding given the state of the roads/hills and the need to see over cars), but if you find it horrible on a cruiser, you wouldn't find it a pleasure on an unfamiliar road bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, if you're at risk of heart attacks, recovering from an injury or whatever it's a different matter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Traffic, weather, and geography would make a world of difference.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On a dry day at 68°F, 10 miles would be great.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have to take several pedestrian bridges to cross major arteries in hot, humid weather, even 1 mile could wear on you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I do 1.55 miles with pretty-much no traffic (crossing one semi-major road to get to work), but this Florida weather does makes it easier for me to make excuses during the summer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Until recently, I was commuting by car about 53 miles to work one-way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I once considered doing the commute by bicycle on a Friday, getting up extremely early in the morning and coming home just-about dead.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(We have a shower at work.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you already have this job, maybe a one-day tryout would be the way to go, or you could try simulating your commute on a weekend.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not knowing your other factors, I would guess 5 miles would be no problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7744/durette", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This is not really a safety issue, but one of practicality and convenience.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I commute a total of 6 miles each way, every day, rain-or-shine in a humid climate.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The most important thing to consider is not the bike, but your clothing and amenities at your destination.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use a backpack and carry a change of clothes and my laptop (using plastic bags for protection from rain).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is a shower at my work, but I don't use it unless I am truly soaked with sweat (only needed if I take a long \"detour\").", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even heavy rain is not a problem if you have a change of clothing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1998/Angelo", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The distance is really up to the individual.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If this is to be a daily commute, then you'll need to consider the weather at times.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Five miles should be easy to cover with a cruiser type bicycle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's just that at times when it's raining or the wind is blowing at 25mph, that five miles will seem like ten miles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The safety part will be determined by the condition of the roads traveled, the amount of traffic, and how you must dress for your commute.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the commute will be made only when conditions are acceptable as being \"comfortable\", then you should have no problem with using the Schwinn cruiser for the ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One thing also to consider is a minimum distance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are a sweater (i.e. one who sweats) a shower is a necessary part of bike commuting.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are going to take the time to get all your gear together, pack a change of clothes, and ride your bike, 5 miles is too short.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I sweat in 5 miles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My minimum distance is 10 miles, and max is 15.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anything more than that I can't sustain on a daily basis.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8425/Trevor", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I'm curious about what is the maximum distance you can live from work so that it's a reasonable biking distance. I am interested in biking about 30 minutes to work. It would be about 5 miles away. I have a heavy cruiser bicycle (Schwinn). It would be a leisurely ride.", "title": "What is considered a good \"safe biking distance\" to bike to work?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><commuter><bike-culture><cruiser>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17002", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3848/Adel" }

[ [ "Five miles is considered by most people to be a safe distance for cycling to work. However, a number of things need to be taken into consideration, including how fit you are, what type of bike you are using, how you react when you are tired and what the route is like. Finally, you need to consider the facilities for getting cleaned up and changed when you arrive at work.", "This question depends on the your fitness, weather, road conditions and other factors. It is important not to be tired enough to impair safety, but experience will increase the distance that you can ride comfortably. Try riding on a day off to gauge your comfortable distance. You should consider the extra time involved with getting ready and showering, but 5 miles will not be too long with a cruiser." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This question depends on the your fitness, weather, road conditions and other factors. It is important not to be tired enough to impair safety, but experience will increase the distance that you can ride comfortably. Try riding on a day off to gauge your comfortable distance.", "You should consider the extra time involved with getting ready and showering, but 5 miles will not be too long with a cruiser." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Since cycling doesn't put your abs through a large range of motion, you're not likely to develop your abs by only biking to work.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, depending on how in shape you are, you will probably notice that your overall fitness level increases.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7701/Aaron", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Cycling up hill will do this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Although it's not too intense a work out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ride standing up and you'll use the required muscle group for balance (as a person standing is harder to balance than one sitting, and thus uses more muscles).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since you're sitting symmetrically this will also give you an 'even' work out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So just modify your route to take in a couple of small hills.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fartlek is best (basically - alternating intensity during exercise to stress your body), so flat then hill then flat then hill.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5638/S..", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As others have pointed out cycling is an inefficient way to exercise the muscles in your core.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Cycling will utilize those muscles and your cycling performance will likely benefit from strengthening them - but cycling specifically won't really build strength in those muscles, you have to work them off the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This article from Bicycling covers the topic pretty nicely and has links to some great core workouts for cyclists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally, I've used the exercises described on here", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and they're pretty good.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6533/Kevin", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could always opt for a rowing bike .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That would probably work your abs more than a regular bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "What most people mean by developing their abs is that they want their abdominal muscles to show through their skin, commonly referred to as a six pack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While you probably wont engage your abdominals in cycling very much, cycling as an endurance activity will increase your caloric needs and make it easier for you to reduce the amount of body fat covering your abs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The common misconception that you will lose fat in the trained area is a myth .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course you still need at least some abdominal muscle mass for it to show, but losing the fat that covers them is harder than training the core.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And while I think that cycling is a good idea to get rid of some fat, a healthy diet can have an even bigger effect on your overall body fat percentage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Adding to that there is a debate in the fitness community if specific training (aka isolation exercises) for the abs - such as crunches - is a good idea at all.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The current trend prefers exercises that engage the whole core, reducing the negative effects of muscle imbalances.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For example: My main exercise for the abdominal area currently are chin-ups and pull-ups.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While the movement doesn't seems to have a lot of core-engagement in the first place, I am not the only one who is convinced that they are a good core exercise.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On T-Nation is an article comparing different ab exercises , chin-ups were one of the top exercises.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably the most shocking result of this entire experiment was the level of rectus abdominis activity elicited by a bodyweight chin-up!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It beat out any other abdominal exercise, weighted exercises and all, in mean and peak rectus abdominis activity.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "[…] If you're aiming to get a great core workout via chin ups, I recommend performing slow, controlled repetitions while focusing on keeping the hips and spine perfectly neutral throughout the set.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4891/Baarn", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I would suggest a two fold approach!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Firstly ride your bike in a fat burning zone.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your going to need to have a relatively low body fat percentage if you want to have decent muscle definition.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So I'd take the long route into work!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The second phase is once you arrive at work jump off your bike and do some sit-ups, once your strong enough you could use your bike as additional weight whilst performing some crunches..", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Alternatively a structured weight routine in the gym would work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Your not going develop a killer six pack by just riding a bike though I'm afraid!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10392/Jimbo Jones", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I have a mountain bike, and I wonder if I can develop my abs if I take my bike to work everyday.", "title": "How can I develop my abs while I ride my bicycle?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><training><fitness>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18168", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8455/markmalone" }

[ [ "Cycling does not provide a great core workout. Although if you ride standing up and cycle up hills, you use the abdominals and core muscles more. However, cycling is an endurance activity that uses calories and thus should reduce the fat covering the abdominals.", "Cycling is unlikely to develop your abs and upper body, although it may help to reduce body fat in the area and make them more visible. Upperbody strength developed elsewhere can also help cycling. Hill riding, standing up and interval training are good ways to develop core muscles on a bike." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Cycling is unlikely to develop your abs and upper body, although it may help to reduce body fat in the area and make them more visible. Upperbody strength developed elsewhere can also help cycling.", "Hill riding, standing up and interval training are good ways to develop core muscles on a bike." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Have you tried holding your tool like this:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have just discovered it (instead of the classical \"one tool per hand\" technique) and it helped a lot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5526/tisek", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I used a domestic hairdryer for 2/3 minutes , applied the extension and it finally gave.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Would also advise against using a blowtorch as may damage components.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/52531/soeleanni", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Did you yourself grease the threads before installing?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is especially important when the lock ring is aluminum.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'll assume your free hub body is either steel or titanium and there's no grease.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If force alone won't move it, it's time to try leverage or impact or both.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the shop they'll ask you the above question before putting the wheel on the ground with the right (or cassette holding) chain whip in a position where it cannot move (under a table or something solid and heavy).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The lock ring tool or wrench can have a longer lever attached to it and push straight down.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that doesn't work, get a plastic hammer and try impact.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good luck, and always grease your threads..", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8619/fergie348", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Try engaging the chain whip on different cogs of the cassette.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Overlap the chain on the chain whip so that it binds itself in place if necessary.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2598/joelmdev", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm an engineer and encountered many stuck bolts, nuts and threads in my time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just tried to remove my rear shimaneo cassette off a 3 year old bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I used the correct tools and really put all my weight and force into it, but it wouldn't budge.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So i decided to apply a little heat from a blow torch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Being careful not to overheat the whole wheel hub, i gently heated it up", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and then i tried the sprocket socket, and it turned without even needing a spanner.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I should have tried that before i applied all my weight and what might have happened, if it suddenly gave way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even though I've done this before, i was amazed what a difference it made, much safer than jumping up and down on a 5ft scaffold tube!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43403/johnny", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Wow...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I pretty much gave it everything that I could find in my garage tonight, but like most...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have no vice.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I even tried a pry-bar between the whip and the wrench, but the whip (Park Tool) is not real rigid and it started to bend.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Before I shamefully gave up to go into the LBS, as a last resort, I clamped the chain whip to my workbench table thinking that maybe I can get enough clamping force to simulate a vice before it slips.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Voila.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I couldn't believe how easy it was by comparison.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While I still needed a breaker bar, this was the most effective thing to do.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45150/sprinter in marathon", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You should secure the cassette lockring removal tool with the quick release skewer or axle bolt, just enough to hold it in place (although some removal tools don't have a hole in the middle for you to do this).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This means you can use more force without fear of the tool slipping.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then use a long handled wrench (spanner) and chain whip.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A box-end wrench (ring spanner) will give you more purchase.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise use a vice in place of the wrench (spanner) and just turn the chain whip counterclockwise when looking from the side of the wheel not fixed in the vice.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "When using the wrench and chain whip, if you can't push the two tools toward each other to remove the cassette, you can inflate the tire fully, and go for the most mechanical advantage by having the spanner and whip handles forming a v with angles of about 120-150 degrees.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then push down on both handles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This does run some risk of damaging your wheel though, so only try this as a last resort.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can also try putting the chain whip on the larger sprockets for more purchase.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2148/Jason S", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I've been trying in vain to remove a rear cassette that I myself installed about a year ago. I may have over-tightened the lock ring and now I can't remove it no matter what position I hold the wheel-chain whip-wrench combination. Any advice on what to do to get this cassette off (short of going to my LBS)? The wheel is relatively new and the cassette is very new, and the reason I want to remove the cassette is to replace a broken spoke.", "title": "How can I remove a stuck rear cassette?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<wheels><repair><cassette>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18465", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4785/Tal Fishman" }

[ [ "If force alone won't move a stuck rear cassette, it's time to try leverage or impact or both. You should secure the cassette lockring removal tool with the quick release skewer or axle bolt, just enough to hold it in place (although some removal tools don't have a hole in the middle for you to do this). Otherwise use a vice in place of the wrench (spanner) and just turn the chain whip counterclockwise when looking from the side of the wheel not fixed in the vice. You can also try putting the chain whip on the larger sprockets for more purchase. Alternative solutions include using a domestic hairdryer for 2/3 minutes, followed by force. Finally, using a blowtorch is not recommended.", "A hairdryer can loosen the cassette, but avoid anything too hot. Greasing the threads can make subsequent removal easier. more leverage using the larger cog or a longer bar can help." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A hairdryer can loosen the cassette, but avoid anything too hot. Greasing the threads can make subsequent removal easier.", "more leverage using the larger cog or a longer bar can help." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I wouldn't consider it to be bad etiquette", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "IF: You're not breaking the posted road speed limit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Watch not only for cars backing out but for kids.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Watch for dogs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "In small neighborhoods like this", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's also not a bad idea to stay out in the lane and not hug the curb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This gives you much more time if a car or child comes hurtling out into the road and you're not going to be slowing down a following car very much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Edit: include the warning to watch for dogs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is pretty important.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/638/alesplin", "score": 27 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "No.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Absolutely not.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And why would it be?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Should you run a race through there without getting the residents onboard first?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course not.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(And who would?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But taking a bike ride through residential areas?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why would anyone object?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And if they do, how could it possibly be labeled unreasonable for a cyclist to come down the street at 10-20 mph when cars come down it all the time at 20-40 mph?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pretend you live there and ask yourself which one you want coming down your street at their maximum speed and recklessness.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd take a peloton of drunken idiots on bikes over a single car.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The former could be merely entertaining, but the latter rather lethal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3497/Carey Gregory", "score": 20 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm assuming you're in the US.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that's true, a bicyclist has the same rights (and obligations) as a motor vehicle, so etiquette doesn't come into it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You have the right to use the public roads (and the obligation to stop at stop signs).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Unless there's something odd about your bike riding (you ride with a boom box cranked up to 11?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I would think you'd be welcome to cut through a residential area, as you make no noise, emit no pollution and are arguably less impactful than a car.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Be polite, wave at folks who yield to you at intersections and enjoy the ride!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10925/Peter", "score": 13 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I has a sad that you even felt like you had to ask this question, no matter what kind of bike you have.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ":(", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Out of curiosity, where do you live?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would just try to be a considerate and careful cyclist.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're used to riding, then you are used to being aware of crazy stuff that could happen around you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you live in an area that makes you ask this question, the drivers might not know how to deal with cyclists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They might not think to look for you, or if they do see you, they could assume they always have the right-of-way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's probably the same in your regular commute.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They might have their guards down a little more in the familiarity of their bicycle-free neighbourhood.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But, no, it is not bad etiquette to ride your bike on public streets.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10941/alaina", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you do it naked, it will probably be considered bad etiquette.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Remember Bicycle Race by Queen?)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I guess nobody in your city ever uses a bike?!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the 1800s people were afraid that trains would scare cows along the rail track, and make milk go sour.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Nowadays we know this is not true.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Biking through urban areas won't make anyone's milk sour! ;-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10947/SPRBRN", "score": 3 } } ]

{ "question": "Is it considered bad etiquette to ride a road bike through a small residential area? Not talking about a cheap bike and riding on the sidewalk but a nicer road bike at a decent pace. I don't want to upset anyone by cutting through their neighborhood but it would be a lot easier for my commute.", "title": "Is it bad etiquette to ride road bike through a small residential area?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<etiquette>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21174", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8397/Ryan" }

[ [ "It is absolutely not bad etiquette to ride a bike through a residential area. Bikes are allowed on public roads and are less impactful than cars. It is advised to watch out for children and dogs and to be considerate to people in the area.", "It is not bad etiquette to use public roads safely and according to the rules. Be polite and aware of the risks associated with your environment." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is not bad etiquette to use public roads safely and according to the rules.", "Be polite and aware of the risks associated with your environment." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The parts that Blam refers to are known as the pawls and the ratchet inside the freehub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Slipping can happen for a number of reasons, including worn ratchet, worn pawls, weak springs, or excessive accumulation of grease & grime within the freehub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "has a thorough explanation of the different freehub types.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Depending on the hub you have, a repair consists of either cleaning, rebuilding or replacing the freehub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some freehubs are rebuildable, others are not and must be replaced as a unit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That said, it's often possible to extend the life of a non-rebuildable freehub by flushing out the old grease & gunk and regreasing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The mechanic at your local bike shop can almost certainly take care of this for you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're more of the do-it-yourself type, http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service has step-by-step instructions for several different freehub types.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2572/keithmo", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Check if chain doesn't slack when coasting.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A similar symptom happened to my bike, the cause was a worn spacer inside the free body had deformed and caused drag between the freewheeling part and the body, causing the cassette to apply forward torque on the chain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This caused a slack on the upper part of the chain, so when i started pedalling again, i had to first take up the slack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In this case, lubrication helped only a little and for a short period.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Partial rebuild of the free body resolved the issue (however it was a very old hub an it shortly broke again).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your bike has a freewheel instead, you can just swap it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "In some cases, dirt and debris can contaminate the lube inside a free body or freewheel, and prevent the pawls from engaging.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In such cases, a rebuild using fresh, clean lube solves the issue.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some lubricants get sticky with time, forming a goo or paste that also prevents parts from moving freely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The cure is the same as previous.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Most likely it is not the pedals clicking in but the hub / freewheel", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You have little springs on metal that let it click to coast", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but when you pedal they catch.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So if the spring is worn or the metal is worn it may not catch on the first and have to travel to the second (or third).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A quarter pedal is a lot of motion.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is going to get worse as you have fewer points of contact and they are getting banged on.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know you are not asking about single speed freewheel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but this is a reference freewheel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trials freewheel has 72 points of engagement for a faster engagement", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The coast / engage can be in the free hub or the free wheel - fix hub and freewheel - free hub and cassette SheldonBrown", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might have a freewheel on the bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "BIG.NINE", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "40-MD", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so you can just replace the freewheel But most likely you have free hub / cassette", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will see hub used for free hub", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so just because the says hub does not mean it is not a freehub", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And you will see the term freewheel used for cassette", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if they say cassette they typically mean cassette", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I doubt this is chain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do you have visual slack in the chain?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A 1/4 turn would be chain drooping half way to the ground and you would have problems with the chain coming off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Basically, there's 2 mechanism in play so it should be one or the other.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A loose in the chain or a broken freehub.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Check that there is no loose when you cross the chain from smallest platter to smallest cog on the cassette.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If there is, remove chain link to remove loose.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Check that your freehub start pulling the wheel almost as soon as it start turning (forward).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that's not the case, you should change you rear hub or wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12598/kbenoit", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Because you say that this happens when the bike is already in motion , I suspect that what you're experiencing is normal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In most bicycles, the rear hub has a ratchet mechanism which allows it to freewheel in one direction.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This means that when the bicycle rolls forward under its own momentum (or down hill), the pedals do not move.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Moreover, you can pedal backward even while moving forward.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This also means that in order to feel any resistance, you have to pedal sufficiently fast for the speed at which you are going and the gear that you are in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you do not pedal fast enough, it feels as if there is no tension in the chain, because in fact there isn't: the hub is moving faster than you, and freewheeling, and so the chain isn't exerting any torque.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You must pedal faster or switch to a higher gear (if possible).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is also a chance that the ratchet mechanism in your hub is not working properly, so that indeed there is some looseness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The way to check this is to stand still with your brakes fully engaged, and try to pedal forward.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There should be almost no slack in your drive train: the pedal should not move forward if the bike is restrained.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the pedals can rotate forward while your bike is restrained from moving, then have it serviced.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks as if your rear cassette hub or freewheel may need to be replaced, or some other problem in the overall drive train.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In other words does the problem reproduce when the bike is not already in motion?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so: problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5088/Kaz", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I just got an old 90's bike (like new with same problem) and usually it's the poor grease used in older entry level", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Chinese made bikes that dries up and turns into wax that does this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course it could be alot of other things too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Adding light oil may work, from open side of freewheel hub, lay bike on side add oil and let gravity help it get into freewheel, then ride bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some solvents or WD40 could work better on really bad dried up grease.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may have to tear hub apart and repack with good grease, if it's not a mechanical issue", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it's the lube inside period.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Good luck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "PS As a bicycle messenger in Boston for about 15 years , I coined the saying \"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In this business either you break the bike, or the bike breaks YOU!\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be good.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40922/Boston Jammer", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I ride a rather usual Merida hard-tail mountain bike. Recently I've come to notice that when I start pedaling (bike already in motion), it can take up to as much as quarter of a turn for the pedals to click and the chain to start pulling the bike again. What could cause this and more importantly, how can this be fixed? Is this merely a problem of chain tension?", "title": "Pedaling not connecting right away", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><shifter>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22996", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10694/Nit" }

[ [ "Most likely it is not the pedals clicking in but the hub / freewheel. Depending on the hub you have, a repair consists of either cleaning, rebuilding or replacing the freehub. That said, it's often possible to extend the life of a non-rebuildable freehub by flushing out the old grease & gunk and regreasing. The mechanic at your local bike shop can almost certainly take care of this for you.", "This is probably the ratchet failing to connect due to a worn part in the freehub or accumulation of grease and grime. You may need to clean, rebuild or replace the freehub. This can be done yourself or at a bike shop." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is probably the ratchet failing to connect due to a worn part in the freehub or accumulation of grease and grime.", "You may need to clean, rebuild or replace the freehub. This can be done yourself or at a bike shop." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The point of the National Bike Registry, and similar schemes, isn't so much to prevent theft as it is to make it (sometimes) possible to recover a bike after it's been stolen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Police departments do recover a lot of bikes; but, since it's usually impossible to trace ownership, most of them end up in police auctions.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The bike registries help to solve this problem, so that if your bike winds up in the hands of the police, there's at least a fair chance they'll be able to get it back to you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the tag is still on the bike, the cops (or a bike shop) won't have to look in five or six different databases.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They'll know which one to check.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I agree it would be much better to have a single national (or better yet, worldwide) database.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a nice bike, and I know that there's no single way to prevent losing it to the creeps who go around stealing bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But the more I do, the better my chances are.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13277/Doug Rees", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "After reading this today, I called the three local law enforcement groups; Santa Cruz County Sheriff, Capitola City Police, and Santa Cruz City Police.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "NONE of them use ANY of these online databases.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They all use a stolen bike database that is exclusive to law enforcement.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In California if the value of the bike is $900 or less it gets listed in a California only database.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the value is over $900, it gets listed in a national database.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24021/Dave", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Bike Registration is a solved problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's what Bike Index has done.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's the largest independent registry in the world", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's free to register (it's not for profit)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It provides automated registration for bike shops Police use and search it", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It does lots of other things and is open source", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bike Index recovers stolen bikes (> 2600 to date), because it works.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Additionally : Bikes have serial numbers, adding additional registration points (such as stickers) is counterproductive, since it adds one more thing to track (and another point of failure).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Disclaimer:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm a co-founder of Bike Index.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I built it because I was frustrated by existing registries and that they took advantage of bicyclist without delivering.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Reasons National Bike Registry is a scam: it costs money to register registrations expire (and aren't transferable) limited and inaccessible search for stolen bikes", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "No support, it's impossible to reach them no maintenance or updates Paying National Bike Registry for a registration is absurd, it doesn't do anything.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't give them your money.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23057/sethherr", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Its hard to say for a few reasons, but I'd be inclined to tend towards its not very effective: 1)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "People have to be aware of it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "2)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It doesn't physically provide any security.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "3)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The people who use this are likely to use it on nicer bikes so it could act as an attracting mark.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As far as I can tell, for the most part, the stickers could easily be removed or the bikes could be stripped for parts or more likely just used as is in a city (where delivery boys or whatever need cheap bikes frequently and don't really care where they're from, or whatever) - the bike would have to go through a bike shop which saw the sticker, and on top of that, did query the number in order to make use of it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or, recovering an impounded bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Having lots of bikes registered would make the registry more effectively.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If bike shops automatically registered every bike sold and governments that license bike automatically registered every bike, the system would be more more effective.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "these processes could be computerized so that the shops and government needed very little additional effort.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22953/Ken Shelor", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Perhaps we need a meta-index, one that searches all the bike indexers in all the countries, then reports on matches based on serial number / brand / engravings etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Something like a email RBL blacklist DNS searcher, like https://mxtoolbox.com/problem/blacklist/", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally I'd expect the sticker to be one of those permanent ones, or forgo that and use engraving on the steel/alloy frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Downside is, police don't have a lot of time for low value recoveries like this, so there's no incentive to use these databases.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "The National Bike Registry is an nationwide registry of bikes with identifying information (serial numbers, make/model, owner information) in the US that is intended to help identify stolen or impounded bikes. There are of course other bike registries such as the recent Bike Index , many municipal registries, and the International Bike Registry . Are these registries effective, both at reducing bike theft (i.e. if you put a sticker on your bike thieves are less likely to steal it) or in tracking down stolen bikes?", "title": "Does the National Bike Registry work?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<theft>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23229", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11331/Jason" }

[ [ "S0: The point of the National Bike Registry, and similar schemes, isn't so much to prevent theft as it is to make it (sometimes) possible to recover a bike after it's been stolen. If bikes are registered then, if they are found by the police, the owner can be located. However, cyclists views on how effective it is differ. Some believe it works but the majority see it as in effective. Unfortunately, not all bikes are registered, the police have little interest in low value bike theft and many people are not aware of it so it is pretty ineffective.", "The point of bike registries is for recovery rather than prevention, but since bikes are usually lower value and there are several databases, there is limited success matching stolen bikes that have been found to their original owners. Some databases are expensive with little support, and many bikes end up in police auctions. A tag will help police to find the bike on the right registry, but it provides no physical security against theft in the first place. Tagged bikes can also be used for parts, stripped of tags or used in the knowledge that they are unlikely to be traced." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "The point of bike registries is for recovery rather than prevention, but since bikes are usually lower value and there are several databases, there is limited success matching stolen bikes that have been found to their original owners. Some databases are expensive with little support, and many bikes end up in police auctions.", "A tag will help police to find the bike on the right registry, but it provides no physical security against theft in the first place. Tagged bikes can also be used for parts, stripped of tags or used in the knowledge that they are unlikely to be traced." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Simple, yet powerful solution - pour max 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda, found in any store) into the shoes before or after wearing them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It will kill the bacteria and any other \"stuff\" that produces bad smell.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It has no negative effects on skin whatsoever, except when applying it to freshly shaven skin - as it may cause inflammation of the skin (but, hey - everything does under that conditions).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It also doesn't paint socks or shirts (if you use it as a deodorant replacement).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use it on daily basis.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, it's great if you don't want the irritations on skin from the deodorants.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sodium Bicarbonate is odorless itself.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "More info on Sodium Bicarbonate Cheers!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3937/Nikola", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If odor is your main concern, I can highly recommend the so-called boot bananas .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You put them in your shoes whenever you are not using them, and it slowly kills all odors.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a pair of boot-bananas for a year now, and I am very enthousiastic about it, all odors are gone since I use them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It did not use them for my cycling shoes though (they don't smell as far as I know), but for other sporting shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is not cheap, but certainly worth the money.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some people put their shoes in the freezer, as it also kills a lot of the bacteria, which cause the bad smell, but I do not have first hand experience with that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7525/Bernhard", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I try to not wash cycle shoes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have found a boot/shoe dryer to be effective with odor.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The old style without a fan seems to work better for shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Leave the dryer in for a day and cook that bacteria.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No I don't have medical information the dryer gets hot enough to kill bacteria but it seems to work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It gets rid of the odor and the next time they get wet they don't seem to stink up as fast.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And a fresh set of socks with every ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "According to this link you can kill odor bacteria with heat Foot odor Remove odor causing bacteria with Ozone, Sunlight, UV, Chemical, or Heat.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Soaking them in a bucket of very diluted bleach water (~1 cap in a 5 gallon bucket)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "overnight should help with the odor.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As far as drying, either grab a fan, or there are a lot of commercial solutions available.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They're mostly marketed for winter/ski boots, but they'll obviously work for any type of wet shoe.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12725/stranger", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Start by replacing the insoles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Typically this is what smells the most in old bike shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After that you can also clean the shoe itself following any one of the many suggested methods outlined in this thread.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But be sure to remove you nice new insoles first before cleaning the shoe itself.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also try to thoroughly dry the shoe as fast as possible, leaving the shoe damp for prolonged period will encourage growth of bacteria.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Good luck!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/Rider_X", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Dettol Liquid contains Chloroxylenol.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It kills bacteria and provides protection against germs which can cause infection and illness.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Dettol kills 99.9% of bacteria, such as E.coli and Influenza virus (H1N1).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Always read the label.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Serious, the smell is caused by bacteria and your mission is to kill them!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Put hot water, plenty of Dettol and your bacteria/shoes in a bucket.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Let it soak for one night.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Rinse and dry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Enjoy the new smell!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10337/allcaps", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You probably do not know this but baking soda can act as a good deodorizer for the shoes and sometimes even for the feet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "-", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After using your shoes, sprinkle a little bit of baking soda on each one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- Leave on the baking soda on the shoes overnight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- Take off the baking soda from the shoes in the morning especially if it is already going to be used.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "More info", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19657/John", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This is a bit unconventional, but stay with me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Take the shoes and place them in a plastic bag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Remove as much air as you can from the bag and seal.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Place the bagged shoes in to the freezer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Leave the shoes in the freezer at least overnight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I based this on the idea that the cold temps of the freezer would kill most of the odor causing bacteria and it worked the times I've tried it, but your milage may very.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1552/CyberKnoy08", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Buy a boot dryer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Put your wet shoes and gloves on it after good rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It drys them out fast and prevents odors.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Great for winter commuting as well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When my MTB shoes are covered in mud.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I just take them to the sink with a scrub brush.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do a quick rinse and scrub the outside (about 2 min tops) to get the mud off and then toss on the dryer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "So I have a pair of: Diadora X-Country 2 MTB Shoes (pic below) How would I go about cleaning them, primarily to remove odor? I am tempted to put this in the washing machine- but the cleet is totally stuck to the shoe (imagine 7,000km, mostly in the wet). Brush + washing up liquid? What about the inside sole etc? Any tips? Update:I ended up using some handwash (with anti bacterial) and a brush/toothbrush and got the following results:", "title": "How do I get rid of odor from cycling shoes?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shoes><cleaning>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23334", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5815/AliGibbs" }

[ [ "A number of methods are recommended for removing the odor from cycling shoes. Shoes can be washed but should be dried wuickly with a fan or a boot dryer. Boot bananas can be placed in the shoes. Alternatively, a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate can be placed in teh shoes before or after wearing. This also has the advantage of killing bacteria.", "Avoid letting the shoes stay wet, and dry wet shoes quickly with boot dryers or a fan. Baking soda helps to eliminate odor. Freezing shoes is also said to kill bacteria that causes odors." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Avoid letting the shoes stay wet, and dry wet shoes quickly with boot dryers or a fan.", "Baking soda helps to eliminate odor.", "Freezing shoes is also said to kill bacteria that causes odors." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "You can cut an aluminum soda can into a small strip and wrap that around and fold it like a tiny burrito into the end.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Crimp with pliers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Picture lovingly misappropriated from http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren", "score": 13 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The empty ink-tube of a ballpoint pen makes good cable ends.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The metal ones may be squeezed into place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a plastic one cut off 1 cm, put over the cable end and heat with a flame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10401/Carel", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I usually use an old spoke nipple.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Slide it over the end and crimp with an electrical (stake-on/solderless connector) crimper.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have actually used these options: Epoxy glue:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "let it dry a little before applying.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is too liquid just after mixed, so let it dry and use it like if it were modelling putty.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thin cooper wire from a telephone cord.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Wounded it around the end of the cable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would look like a bass guitar string.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Solder wire applied cold, wound a couple of turns and crimp it with pliers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Thin metal office supplies used for holding pieces of paper together (fasteners and similar) cut into small pieces and crimped with pliers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Failed attempts were made with masking tape, electrical tape and duct tape.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Soldering it was also a fail for me, the molten solder would not adhere to the steel cable, that's why I ended just crimping it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Wrap it tightly with electrical/gaffa tape?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11489/linguamachina", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Anyone with a roll of lead-based solder can hammer it out against an iron plate to make a thin foil, then wrap the cable with it, and finally \"swage\" it by hammering it down.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The soft lead will press into the cable gaps and should create a very tight nipple.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I tried this at the handlebar end with not such good results, trying to jerry-rig a cable anchor: although the foil layer touching the cable does swage in well, the outer layers are too brittle to hold well together.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's like trying to make a sandwich out of phyllo dough, the gaps make for a crumbly product.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I imagine it'd be pretty easy to make a little baby crucible out of steel, stone, or something else that melts at a higher temperature than lead.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would be a mold for the anchor.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would include a slot where you lay the cable halfway through it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then, stuff the cavity with solder (melt it in, jam your iron in, use a torch, whatever).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That should make for a good DIY anchor, meaning you could buy cable in bulk and make your own cables.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/49488/Pete Zelchenko", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use normal solder - this keeps the strands together and negates the need for a cap.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I thread the cable and then solder where I will cut, and then trim the excess off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Note this method leaves a sharpish point still.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trick is preparation... if you have stainless steel cables then they don't take solder too well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You need to clean the end with a solvent to remove any grease, sand it or file it some to abrade the surface, use some flux liquid and a decently hot soldering iron.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Silver solder works better but is definitely overkill for a bike cable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you have a soldering iron and some solder, that may stop it from fraying further, but won't make it any less sharp.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You could consider a bit of alu foil, but I doubt this would stay on.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps with some glue suitable for metal?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps a small cable tie done up super-tight with pliers?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I am in a pinch and need something to crimp onto the end of my brake cable to stop it fraying. There aren't any hardware shop's nearby and its a long way to the nearest bike shop. Any household object that'll do the job? Any good stop-gap until I can get a proper part?", "title": "What can I use for a DIY cable end?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<maintenance><preventative-maintenance>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23501", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/" }

[ [ "There are numerous suggestions for making a DIY cable end. These include a strip from an aluminum soda can, an old spoke nipple, solder wire, paper clips, empty ink tube of a ballpoint pen, epoxy glue and metal glue.", "A piece of metal from a can, a piece of copper wire or cold solder wire can be wrapped around and hammered down or crimped with pliers. The wire can be coved with a spoke nipple, ballpoint pen cap or cable tie. The end can be glued or soldered, but it may be difficult to get the solder to adhere to the cable." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A piece of metal from a can, a piece of copper wire or cold solder wire can be wrapped around and hammered down or crimped with pliers.", "The wire can be coved with a spoke nipple, ballpoint pen cap or cable tie.", "The end can be glued or soldered, but it may be difficult to get the solder to adhere to the cable." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Old but still worthwhile:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Breaking Away .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/394/Jerry Coffin", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A few of my guilty pleasures: Hard-boiled: The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro) Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson Soft-boiled: The Flying Scotsman , Graeme Obree biopic Quicksilver", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The Triplets of Belleville (originally released in UK as Belleville Rendez-vous )", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11489/linguamachina", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Because I'm a mountain bike guy, and I think the stories and shots are way more interesting (sorry roadies):", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Where The Trail Ends Strength in Numbers Life Cycles", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Won't Back Down Rad Company", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And of course all the old-school freeride films like Kranked.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7701/Aaron", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A couple of classics for you... A Sunday in Hell", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The Stars and The Water Carriers", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/16979/OraNob", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Hell on Wheels is a German movie portraying Erik Zabel and Rolf Aldag during the Tour de France 2003.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It gives quite some insights into cycling on that level (while it ignores doping and we meanwhile know that the participants did quite some doping during that time ...)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2476/johannes", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Blood Sweat Gears is a documentary on Garmin Cycling Team, a good alternative to watching TdF dvds.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3042/imel96", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's no Breaking away, but check out American Flyers too.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You've got your Kevin Costner, cycling, iconic scenes, and Russian bogeymen.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2824/Darth Egregious", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The Sufferfest offer motivational/training videos.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, Bromley Video in the UK has lots of DVDs, books, videos etc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "of all things cycling - grand tours, races, bios, documentaries, dramatisations.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not particularly cheap but the best selection I've seen in a single place, also some of the DVDs are self-produced", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so I'd imagine are unavailable elsewhere.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think they also have an eBay outlet, you may find some things cheaper on there.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4808/PeteH", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Great bicycle movies Top Five Cycling Films of All Time 9 Cycling Movies", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You Can't Miss 10 Best Cycling Movies Ever Bonus: Best Bicycle Movie Scenes All bicycle movies Wikipedia Bicycle Universe IMDB 1 IMDB 2", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12749/olee22", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The Armstrong Lie In 2009 director Alex Gibney set out to film The Road Back, a documentary on cyclist Lance Armstrong's comeback year after a four-year retirement from the sport.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Three years later, on October 2012, a doping investigation led to his lifetime ban from competition and the stripping of his seven Tour de France titles, and the documentary was shelved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On January 14, 2013, three hours after his appearance on Oprah, Armstrong went back to Gibney to set the record straight about his career.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you are into mountain biking at all, I highly recommend any/all of the NWD (New World Disorder) series, and also the films The Collective made.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "NWD is pretty much straight up old school bike Pr0n.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Professionals on bikes doing ridiculous things to awesome music.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The collectives movies were a bit more artsy, but very close to the same thing; both sets were well done.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally I'd also like to recommend Bang Bang, which was a film that sort of revolved around Aaron Chase and the year he broke his back.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's very behind the scenes and gave me a very unique perspective on what some of the riders are actually like and how to some extent \"the show must go on\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13710/Deleted User", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Can you recommend high quality cycling-centric films? Can you recommend good sources (for example, publishers, distributors, vendors, etc.) to locate these films?", "title": "What are some good films about cycling?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<bike-culture><movie>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23548", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/" }

[ [ "Recommended films about cycling: Breaking Away, The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro) Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson Soft-boiled: The Flying Scotsman , Graeme Obree biopic Quicksilver, The Triplets of Belleville, Where the Trail Engs, Strength in Numbers, Life Cycles, Won't Back Down, Rad Company, Kranked, A Sunday in Hell, Hell on Wheels, The Road Back and many more...", "Breaking Away, Hard-boiled: The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro), Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson, Soft-boiled: The Flying Scotsman , Graeme Obree biopic Quicksilver, Where The Trail Ends, Strength in Numbers, Life Cycles, Won't Back Down Rad Company, Kranked, A Sunday in Hell, The Stars and The Water Carriers, Hell on Wheels, Blood Sweat Gears, American Flyers, The Armstrong Lie, Bang Bang. The Sufferfest offers motivational videos, Bromley Video has a selection of films and resources, NWD (New World Disorder) has a series on mountain biking and The Collective made a few films." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Breaking Away, Hard-boiled: The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro), Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson, Soft-boiled: The Flying Scotsman , Graeme Obree biopic Quicksilver, Where The Trail Ends, Strength in Numbers, Life Cycles, Won't Back Down Rad Company, Kranked, A Sunday in Hell, The Stars and The Water Carriers, Hell on Wheels, Blood Sweat Gears, American Flyers, The Armstrong Lie, Bang Bang.", "The Sufferfest offers motivational videos, Bromley Video has a selection of films and resources, NWD (New World Disorder) has a series on mountain biking and The Collective made a few films." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I do like you do when riding, and I usually save up my tubes with holes and patch a bunch of them all at once.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That way I can use a tub of water to both find the holes, and can go back through them after patching and test to see if they are holding air.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I have any doubt after patching a tube, I give it a little time to cure and then I pump it up and hang it from a hook in my garage overnight to see if it loses air.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You should inflate the tube to 1.5 to 2 times the \"normal\" diameter, in order to develop a modicum of pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Wait until after the patch has \"cured\" overnight to do this, however.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then either test in a tub/sink or let it sit overnight again to see if it loses air.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Getting the tube to fold up nicely is not a problem, if it's a Presta.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just squeegee out all the air, close the valve, then lay it flat and fold it up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Schrader is harder -- best is to remove the valve core temporarily while getting the air out.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You have the right idea.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Inflate the tube to roughly the side it is in the tyre, which will be a much lower pressure than it would be if it was in a tyre.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "My floor pump doesn't register the pressure of a tube pumped up like this, so I expect it's less than 10psi/1 bar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/Móż", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A properly applied patch should resist inflating the tube up to 1.5-2 times the nominal diameter.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is useful for testing the quality of the patching work but also to find the tiniest holes that sometimes are harder to spot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As other say, the definitive way to test is to inflate and submerge in water or to inflate and let overnight to see if it holds.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However: I you get these tiny punctures and specially if they develop on the inner side of the tube (or \"high\" on the face sides), then the problem may be a faulty or degraded tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Tubes may suffer from chemical reactions which makes them prone to develop spontaneous pores.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "When such moment arrives it is best to buy a new tube (one that has not been in the shelves for too long).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some other ways to spot a chemically damaged or degraded tube is that when inflating them outside the tire, they have irregular shape (thicker in one parts than other) or the valve spins towards the outside.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Other may show cracked or rough spots (or other odd texture).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another symptom may be the tube looks \"too black\" (a normal tube is actually dark gray) and they feel sticky.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My experience is that you can't fully test a patch until you take it up to full pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had a patch that was fine for months at low pressure on the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I took the 2.10 up to full pressure to ride on the road and the patch failed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even if you put it on the bike to test the problem is getting the fresh tube you used back in the seat bag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I only use patched tubes for repair at home.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I normally swap out a the tube on the trail if I get a flat and then patch at home. So that leaves me with a patched tube ready to put in a tire and I'd like to test it without having to swap out a tube ('cause I'm lazy :). I thought that perhaps I could just inflate it but I'm concerned that without the opposing pressure of the tire it might blow an otherwise solid patch.", "title": "How can I tell if I have properly patched a tube? (specifically a 2\" mt. bike tube)", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<repair><innertube>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23747", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1502/Clay Nichols" }

[ [ "Pump up the tubes and hang them in the garage and see if they deflate to find out if they are patched properly. However, the definitive way to test is to inflate and submerge in water or to inflate and leave overnight to see if it holds. A properly applied patch should resist inflating the tube up to 1.5-2 times the nominal diameter.", "It is easiest to patch tubes at home and leave them inflated overnight to see whether they lose air. Inflate the tube to 1.5-2 times the nominal width to test the patch properly. Tiny punctures away from the outer side of the tube may indicate a degraded tube, and an irregular shape of the tube or positioning of the valve when inflated could also be a sign of this." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is easiest to patch tubes at home and leave them inflated overnight to see whether they lose air.", "Inflate the tube to 1.5-2 times the nominal width to test the patch properly.", "Tiny punctures away from the outer side of the tube may indicate a degraded tube, and an irregular shape of the tube or positioning of the valve when inflated could also be a sign of this." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "It sounds like your pump is not on the valve properly, so instead of inflating the tire you're just pressurizing the inside of your pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Does your bike have Schrader valves (the kind you see on a car) or Presta valves (skinnier, with a kind of pointy top)?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it has Presta valves, make sure the top of the valve is unscrewed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There's a little nut that you can thread up, and you need to do that before you can put air in to the tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, try wiggling the pump nozzle around on the valve while you push down on the pump handle, you should be able to hear the change as air starts going in to the tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Image of a closed Presta valve: Image of an open Presta valve: Image of a Schrader valve:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12725/stranger", "score": 16 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Pressure is the ratio of force to the area over which that force is distributed, so if you want to use less force, solution may be a double-handle pump with a thinner cylinder.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pump with a large diameter cylinder can pump air faster but needs more force.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pump with a smaller diameter cylinder will deliver less air with a single stroke, but requires less force to pump, which may be what you need when you inflate high pressure tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13103/user3869827", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've had that happen with schrader valves when I don't get the fitting on the valve stem all the way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There's a little pin that has to be pressed down in order for air to get into the tire, and if it isn't pressed down enough, it won't allow any air in no matter how much you pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Make sure you press hard enough to fully seat the pump fitting onto the valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If that doesn't help, your tire valve could be stuck closed, or the pump fitting (the thing you press over the tire valve) might be broken.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13143/George_San_Jose", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Inside the pump that attaches to the stem is a micro bolt with a vertical line.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When you attach the pump and pull the lever up to lock the pump to the stem, that little bolt turns and locks the stem to the pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Most often I have been in such a hurry that I jam the pump to the stem and pull the lever, not locking the stem, and of course after 60 psi or so it pops off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trick is to make sure that vertical line on the stem of the air valve, is exactly lined up with vertical line in air pump connection.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When you pull the lever up very gently you will feel it lock in place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/21357/Lear", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Here is the answer for Dunlop valves (= Woods valve, = english valve) .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This kind of valve is actuated by pressure only .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And the modern form uses a small steel ball that is pressed into a rubber ring by the pressure in the tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The trouble is, that the ball gets quite comfortable within that ring, and it will take some force to push it back out. Force that must be applied in addition to the force needed to overcome the pressure in the tube .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The effect is, that when you want to pump a tire that's currently at 2 bar, you may need to apply a whopping 5 bars pressure from the pump, just to open the valve.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will feel/hear when the ball comes free (because that's when the content of your pump tube suddenly rushes into the tire).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After that, pumping is easy and straight forward, but you must deliver this one first pressure peak first.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you already have 5 bar within your tire, it may be plain impossible to free the valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had that several times.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I actually unscrewed the valve in these cases to deflate the tire entirely, then screwed it back tight, and only then was I able to blow the valve free with my pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ps", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ": I'm switching to Schrader valves now, they don't have this issue.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36555/cmaster - reinstate monica", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Air is not going in valve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If Presta valve, the nut on top must be loosened.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Then tap the end with your finger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll hear a little air escape.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Connect the pump chuck and inflate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If a Scrader valve (like a car tire valve), the chuck probably is not pressed on far enough.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11419/Malarky", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Even after years this was helpful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I stuck a screw driver into the valve to let some air out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That loosened up the valve enough for the pump to engage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you are trying to find out what is wrong with the pump, don't forget to check whether the problem is with the valve instead.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/44238/Bill", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "When trying to inflate my bike tire, I pump maybe 5 times then it gets difficult for me to pump because the handle is hard to pump?", "title": "Difficulty inflating my bike tire", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire><inflation>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23813", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13102/user13102" }

[ [ "It sounds like your pump is not on the valve properly, so instead of inflating the tire you're just pressurizing the inside of your pump. If it has Presta valves, make sure the top of the valve is unscrewed and if a Scrader valve (like a car tire valve), the chuck probably is not pressed on far enough. This happens a lot with schrader valves when the fitting on the valve stem isn't all the way. Make sure you press hard enough to fully seat the pump fitting onto the valve. The trick is to make sure that vertical line on the stem of the air valve, is exactly lined up with vertical line in air pump connection.", "The pump is not entering the tyre, and is only pressurising the pump itself. The valve may be stuck or not properly opened, or the pump may not be properly seated on the valve. On Schrader valves, the spring can be released with a screwdriver, and on Presta valves the pin needs to be unscrewed properly. A pump with a smaller diameter cylinder may help by delivering less air per stroke, but with more pressure." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The pump is not entering the tyre, and is only pressurising the pump itself. The valve may be stuck or not properly opened, or the pump may not be properly seated on the valve. On Schrader valves, the spring can be released with a screwdriver, and on Presta valves the pin needs to be unscrewed properly.", "A pump with a smaller diameter cylinder may help by delivering less air per stroke, but with more pressure." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "They come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks like you have rear facing dropouts, so you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a Surly Tuggnut .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "That little circle on the side of it is a QR adapter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You just pop it in and then slide your skewer all the way through.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's not a bad idea to have a chain tensioner anyway.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One on the drive side will help you get the chain tensioned correctly when mounting the wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I personally like to use chain tensioners on both sides so that the wheel doesn't get knocked crooked if I hit a bump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've had it happen.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It sucks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've used a bunch of chain tensioners and can say from experience that the Tuggnut is by far the easiest to use on the market, partially because it's the only one I've ever found that requires no tools.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's also the only one I've ever found that has a QR adapter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The built-in bottle opener is handy too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "After that little rant, I feel I should mention that I am in no way affiliated with Surly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The tuggnut is just a really good product.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've always used a quick release for the front of my fixed gear bike, I've only ever used the bolts on the back.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "His highness Sir Sheldon Brown says you should be okay to use a quick release with an enclosed cam ( not an exposed cam ) with an acorn nut that has steel teeth ( not aluminum teeth ).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html disclaimer: there's no guarantee", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "this is safe with your particular bike, modify with care and be safe.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5237/Scott Hillson", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Just to add to the other answers, it is my experience that you can't get as secure a fit with a QR skewer as with a nutted axle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If your bike has track forks (like below), rather than forward facing horizontal dropouts, you can probably get away with this, especially by adding a chain tug to keep the wheel from sliding forward in the rear fork end.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If however your bike is a fixie conversion with an old-school horizontal dropout (like below)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd highly advise against using a QR.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The forces exerted when pedalling tend to pull the rear wheel forward relative to the rest of the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The axle nut is the only thing resisting this force.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If this connection isn't tight enough your rear wheel could fall out of the dropouts when in motion.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With a fixed gear drivetrain this is very dangerous for obvious reasons.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can't use a chain tug to prevent this as they old work for backward-facing track forks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Images from sheldon brown", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5740/harryg", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "With the horizontal dropout the axle can shift.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You pretty much need the nuts to get a tight enough grip.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I suspect people have used quick release on a single speed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So Sheldon states an enclosed cam is good enough - not good enough for me.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am not buying the historical reasons as I see new bikes with nutted horizontal dropout and still QR on the front.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If they were doing it for historical reason they would nut front and rear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At some point you need to trust that he manufacturer did it that way for a reason.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have never seen a manufacturer with QR on a horizontal drop out.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The other factor is alignment.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I typically tighten the non drive side first and tweak the drive side for chain tension.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The other factor is the axle size.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On my single speed the axle/skewer is much larger.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have never seen a nut on the smaller size and never seen QR for the larger size.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Please note that since those fenders are mounted on the outer side of the frame, your skewers are tightened against the fender brackets instead of tightened directly against the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Therefore the skewer's nut splines and material are not the only thing to look at.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could of course get a pair of those anti-theft-skewers that you tighten with a wrench to get enough torque...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would simply just enlarge the hole in the fender bracket to 10mm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Preferably with a round file, since drilling through an oval hole is cumbersome by hand.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That'd be easiest and most reliable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No need to swap axles and you could securely tighten your nuts as before.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Discalimer: Modifying the brackets would of course make your fenders un-returnable to the store if they don't fit for some other reason.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13177/Okw", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could avoid interfering with your wheel fastening solution by mounting the guards using P-clips on the seat stays.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7984/Emyr", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Don't change the axle assembly just to fit mudguards!!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Adapt the mudguards instead.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As pointed out lockuts secure the wheel with much greater force than skewers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have these mudguards and whilst they are suited for use with skewers you need to use an adapter with a bigger hole to fit them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Alternatively direct mount the mudguards to the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37525/OS2", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I recently purchased a fixed gear bike, Kilo TT . I had some fenders lying around, SKS raceblade . I tried to install them on my bikebut noticed that the fenders attached to the skewers. My fixed gear bike has bolts in the front and back and the fenders only fit quick release skewers. What are some options? Can I put QR skewers on a fixed gear bike? Is there a reason they come with bolts?", "title": "Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<fixed-gear><fenders><quick-release><skewer>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23972", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11513/bdeonovic" }

[ [ "The fenders come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward. With rear facing dropouts, you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a Surly Tuggnut. The Tuggnut is by far the easiest chain tensioner to use on the market, partially because it's the only that requires no tools. If your fenders are mounted on the outer side of the frame, the skewers are tightened against the fender brackets instead of tightened directly against the frame. You could avoid interfering with the wheel fastening solution by mounting the guards using P-clips on the seat stays. It is beter to adapt the mudgaurds than the frame.", "Horizontal dropouts require a more fixed axle to counter the force pulling the wheel forward. QRs have a less firm grip, so chain tensioners can be used to prevent the axle being knocked out of alignment or sliding forward. Rather than adapting the bike to fit the mudguard, adapt the mudguards or use mudguards that attach to the seat stays." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Horizontal dropouts require a more fixed axle to counter the force pulling the wheel forward. QRs have a less firm grip, so chain tensioners can be used to prevent the axle being knocked out of alignment or sliding forward.", "Rather than adapting the bike to fit the mudguard, adapt the mudguards or use mudguards that attach to the seat stays." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "If one bike has a rear rack, you can attach the second bike's front wheel with a bunch of bungies and tow it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "I've done this, and it worked fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now I have a cargo bike, and the towing is simpler:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11445/David Crowell", "score": 40 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Walk :) Safest.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I do this from time to time", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(usually when one of the kids have 'forgotten' their bike), and find it easiest to do as pr above, but with a little variation.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the transported bike is lightweight and otherwise allows it, simply 'wear' it as a backpack, putting your arm through the big triangle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Once it's on, you can determine if it will Work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Did this once with a racing bike at 7,5Kg.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As the other answers, except I grab the center of the handlebar with palm forward, and then lift the front Wheel of the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This allows me to sit on my own bike more comfortably, and balance is way better since the transported bike doesn't try to steer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13480/Passing through", "score": 25 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you are reasonably firm at riding one-handed, you can drive them home by riding one of them while pushing/pulling the other one beside you with one hand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Let's assume that the bike you will ride is called A and the one you push/pull is B .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "First decide, which bike is better to be ridden and therefore will be your bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A and which hand is better to get freed to steer bike B .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which hand is better will depend on if you will need to change gears and how your brakes are arranged on the handle bars.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then lean bike B somewhere, e.g. to a tree or wall – putting it on its stand is not so good as it might get complicated to get the stand folded in later.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also make sure to lean it on with the correct side, depending on your choice of which hand you want to use to steer it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Finally mount bike", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and place yourself on the bike beside B .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now grab either the stem or the center of the handlebar (where it is held by the stem) of bike B , such that you have some steering control over the handlebar if you twist your wrist.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The most complicated part in this is starting as you will have some wobbly moments on the start", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and you have to take care not to interfere with the handlebars of both bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Having drop bars (as in your case) will make things a bit easier in terms of interference as they are not that wide and it is easier to keep both bikes separated.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also you have to take care to not lean onto the wrong bike, as putting your weight on bike B will make it go somewhere more or less unpredictable and you're quite likely to crash.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So only put your weight onto bike A 's handle bar.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Once you have the whole train running, this arrangement is quite fine (albeit a bit clumsy) as long as you don't have to cope with too much traffic (which is given in your case).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, 5 miles is some piece to ride this way so expect to be somewhat slower than normal and plan to do some pauses on your way as you won't have a very relaxed riding position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5271/Benedikt Bauer", "score": 22 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One possible way is to ride one bike and push the other.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "One hand goes to handlebars and front brake, the other grips the second bike by the handlebar stem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is slow and clumsy, of course, but if you are able to ride the said route with no hands, you should be able to move both bikes as well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Ghostride it, so long as you're not dealing with high speeds or heavy traffic: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Ghostride-a-Bike/ And make sure you have a soundtrack:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5702/Alan Gerber", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Ride one bike, and have a friend ride the other bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Once home, give friend a beer and say \"thank you, see you tomorrow.\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13519/Anonymous Citizen", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'd walk with both bikes - with each hand on their seats, one to the left and other to your right.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bicycles can be easily pushed and steered when holding them at the seat (in the same manner as you would correct steering when riding without hands, through the balance).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I find it easier than pulling them by the middle of handlebars as others suggest.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Doing so with two bikes at once is tricky, and this is slower than riding; but it's safer and you'd get there in the end with no risk of falling yourself; at worst you'd have to stop and readjust them a few times.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10485/Peteris", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Personally I enjoy running as much as riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I could not carry the second bike I would ride one home, run back, ride the other home.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It would take a bit longer and be a great workout....... Presuming 2 bikes @10", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "km/h", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that is about 45-50 minutes (without prangs), or 30km/h (2*16minute) on bikes + 5 minute/km (40 minute) run - 1:15.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My friend was able to ride a few miles with a second bike attached to his backpack with a ropes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You need a wide road for this way of transportation and it can be tricky to tie bike in such a way that it doesn't weights to one side.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, you can detach wheels and tie them to the frame, so bike will be more compact.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13486/lexszero", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I am contemplating this - fit a \"truck bed front fork clamp\" to the parcel rack on my electric bike and tow the other bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Have to remove the front wheel and strap it on the towed bike's frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Possibly could get away with an old front hub sans spokes, and clamp that onto your rack or even the rear seat stay of teh front bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 3 ] ] }, { "text": "Have to watch the clearances of course, left", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "/right turns as well as up/down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "300mm velcro cableties will be used to strap towed bike's front wheel to the frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Edit: I did this and it was not a success.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Complete write up in this answer", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I need to move two bicycles from work to home. The route is 5 miles long and car free. My only means of transport is to ride one of the bicycles so my question is this: What is the safest way to get both bikes from work to home in one journey? (without some kind of trailer) The bikes are a Carrera Virtuoso and a Scott Yecora (dropped handlebars)", "title": "How to move a bicycle by bicycle", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<commuter><advice>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24292", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11200/nettux" }

[ [ "The safest way to transport two bikes is to walk. However, there are other options. One option is to ask a friend to ride the second bike. Another is to ride one bike hoe, run back and ride the other. If riding one'handed is no problem, ride one bike and hold the other with your free hand. Moreover, you could wear the other bike like a backpack. Finally, if one bike has a rear rack, the second bike can be attached to it.", "The safest way would be to walk while holding both bikes, get a friend to ride the second bike or take the bikes in two trips. If you are comfortable riding one-handed, you can hold the other by the stem while steering and holding the brakes of the bike you're riding. If the bike is light enough, you can carry it on your back. You could attach the front wheel or fork to the luggage rack of the bike in front, then tow it." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The safest way would be to walk while holding both bikes, get a friend to ride the second bike or take the bikes in two trips.", "If you are comfortable riding one-handed, you can hold the other by the stem while steering and holding the brakes of the bike you're riding.", "If the bike is light enough, you can carry it on your back.", "You could attach the front wheel or fork to the luggage rack of the bike in front, then tow it." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "(MTB rider here, XC & DH, with little road exp.).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is a certain speed for which up to that speed you should pedal, above it you gain more from adopting the most aerodynamic position and use gravity the best you can.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In my case I find this speed by trial and error in specific circumstances, because it changes according to slope, terrain, bike and tires used and length of the descent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "What I have found is that once you get to the highest gear and start approaching your max cadence, it is very difficult to provide the power needed to accelerate, and it may be even harder to do so while tucked in aero position.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "At this point, if the incline is steep enough, tucking in more will give you more advantage than pedalling.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In have one example, where a hardtail mtb with knobby tires on a paved road with little incline (I can ride it up at 20km/hr approx)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "this speed is around 42 km/hr .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At this point I'm near max cadence in highest gear, so I adopt my aero position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is common for me to even overtake other riders who are pedaling and when I get to the bottom of the hill, I can pedal harder because I have had a rest during the descent.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "In those descents, I get near 50 Km/hr just because of aerodynamics.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(In a road bike in the same road, my threshold is near the same, and i know/feel my speed in aero position is much higher, unfortunately I don't have the numbers yet)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This works for me because in my general shape and level of fitness, on MTB rides, if I stop and rest for 3-5 minutes I resume pedalling approx 5 km/hr faster than if I pedal continuously.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For longer rests my body starts to cool down", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I have to re-warm up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And this is where descent length comes into place.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the descent is long enough for you to cool down, (climate can have a role in this too)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then the benefit of the rest you get, is negated because once you get to the bottom of the hill you have cooled off and will have to warm up again.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For these cases, I recommend what some call \"soft pedalling\", that is pedal just to keep the blood flowing, sustaining the heart rate up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This can be done at intervals, alternating between aero position and soft pedalling, according to your cool-off time in that particular descent/climate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You need to find a certain speed threshold, a simple computer will do.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know this is subjective, but there is a speed where you feel you need to put double the effort to get 1 Km/hr faster.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In that point tuck in aero position an watch what happens with your speed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Here's a good article from a man who knows a thing or two: Coast or Pedal on a Downhill?, Joe Friel Aug-10 Key thing from the article is reference to a 50-40-30-20-10 rule: Coast (and focus on getting aero) at", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ">50km/h Pedal easy at >40km/h Pedal steady at >30km/h Pedal moderately hard at >20km/h Pedal hard at >", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "10km/h", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This lends itself more to racing against the clock (e.g. Time Trials and Triathlon) rather than a road race where staying with the bunch is important for the drafting effect of riding behind someone else.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The above \"rule\" is down to the fact that the faster you go, wind resistance increases and more-and-more energy is required to increase your speed by a set increment.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "E.g. the difference in effort to ride at 20km/h compared to 10km/h is a lot less than, say, 40km/h compared to 30km/h. Check out the 'Drag (physics)'", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "on Wikipedia if you want to read more: drag is proportional to the velocity multiplied by itself (squared).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13582/adey_888", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have no idea if it's efficient or powerful", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I do know that ever since I was a kid right up until now it is pure FUN to pedal as fast as I can, get as much speed as I can, and then see how far it it carry me.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Simple arithmetic.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13747/Fujigirl", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There's a few possible answers: 1, For racing", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "yes", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but as Jahaziel says, you will reach a point where either the effort is too great to increase speed or actually you're just spinning out2, On a ride for fun or fitness there's no NEED to pedal downhill", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "but I find that if it's downhill followed by an uphill it launches you into the hill with more momentum which at least starts the climb better3, Obviously you might be trying to better a descent time in which case treat it like racing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Obviously all this is dependent on the conditions, your skill and your experience.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13410/atlaz", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Because wind resistance is proportional to velocity squared it takes more power to go from 30 to 32 than from 15 to 17.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So you get more bang from your pedal power at lower speeds.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If it is a relatively short downhill", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and you have considerable speed", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "you are typically better off coasting and then pedal when you get to a flat or flatter section.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You are better off exerting yourself on the lower speed ascent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then recover on the downhill.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It might be 2 minute recovery or 20 minute recovery.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you notice racers typically go all out on the ascent.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you went up the hill at 8 mph and down the hill at 13 mph compared to a constant 10 mph you would have about 5% more wind resistance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "How do I use up less when I go down the hill? What is better? If I really drive down (I start down the hill fast and when I will at the foot of the hill I will have a rest since I slow down to my average velocity - in this point I will start pedaling again.) or if I have rest by the way down the hill and start pedal again at the foot?", "title": "Is it preferable to pedal downhill?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<racing-strategy>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24372", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13552/Klasická prádelní šňůra" }

[ [ "There are different opinions among cyclists about pedalling down hill. Some believe it is a waste of energy as it increases your speed little and it is better to have a rest and be ready to face the next climb. There is no need to pedal downhill on fun or fitness rides. Others see pedalling downhill as fun and enjoy reaching the maximum speed possible. Moreover, if you are training for racing, it may be valuable.", "Due to wind resistance, it becomes exponentially more difficult to cycle faster at higher speeds. For that reason, on downhill sections it can be more effective to use an aerodynamic position to lower wind resistance and stay fresh for uphill sections. It can be fun to pedal downhill, but since it provides less advantage it can be helpful to rest before pedalling harder when you get to the bottom." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Due to wind resistance, it becomes exponentially more difficult to cycle faster at higher speeds. For that reason, on downhill sections it can be more effective to use an aerodynamic position to lower wind resistance and stay fresh for uphill sections.", "It can be fun to pedal downhill, but since it provides less advantage it can be helpful to rest before pedalling harder when you get to the bottom." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I definitely recommend this.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Running lights will make you more readily visible as the light will penetrate the fog to an extent.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Reflectors and high-viz clothing will be somewhat less effective during foggy conditions.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Use caution riding in foggy conditions as drivers may not see you until they are very close.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 20 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You should use lights in fog.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On a car, you don't use high beams in fog (but you're supposed to use low beams (required) and fog lights (optional, but useful since they cast a low and wide beam which increases visibility) since they reflect back too much, but on a bicycle, your lights aren't that powerful for this to be a problem (and the distance they cover is less than a car light).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You should also be extra on edge and wear your high vis stuff, since your visibility is lower (and more importantly, people who are driving cars have lower visibility and aren't always very good at driving in fog).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Many people run lights on a clear day for safety.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In the US by law a motorcycle must run lights all the time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Law was based on safety.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is a related post", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Does it make you safer to use lights during the day Cars turn their lights on in the fog.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Another answer was criticized for stating this is a no-brainier.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But it is.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As for high beam versus low beam.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A bicycle light is typically oriented as a low beam.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I always turn on my headlights even in the daytime for safety reasons, whether driving a car or riding a bike or motorcycle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Many times I have tried to change lanes when visibility was limited and had to correct back into my lane because what I thought was a clear lane was actually occupied by a very hard to see vehicle coming up from my blind spot.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Many accidents could be avoided if everyone drove with their headlights on during limited visibility.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13807/Rick Ryker", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In Ohio, the way I read it, it appears that lighting falls under the generic vehicle lighting guidelines, so bicycles are required to act like cars in this one aspect (other rules explicitly state motorized vehicle or even \"motorcycle\").", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, lights are required when: Between sunset and sunrise Visibility less than 1000 feet Windshield wipers are on (recent addition which I think is reallydumb as we often have bright sunny days with occasional lightsprinkles and lights are totally unnecessary, yet you'll be using thewipers).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've not yet seen a bicycle with wipers, so perhaps\"raining enough that I'd use wipers if I had them", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\" would be a goodgeneral rule too?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/349/Brian Knoblauch", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Today it was foggy, visibility was only slightly reduced, I already wear a high-vis on my bike but I am wondering if it is still worth me using my lights or is that overkill?", "title": "Should I use lights in foggy conditions?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<safety><legal>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24735", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13790/Christopher Markwell" }

[ [ "It is definitely recommended to switch your bike lights on when it is foggy. Reflectors and high visibility clothing are less noticeable in fog. Other vehicles are required to use lights in fog and, in the US, motorcycles must use lights at all times. According to law in the US: Lights are required: Between sunset and sunrise Visibility less than 1000 feet Windshield wipers are on.", "Visibility is greatly reduced in fog and high visibility clothing is less effective, so lights are definitely recommended. Lights can improve visibility on a clear day, especially for motorcycles and bikes, and this is more important in fog. In some places, motorcycles must have lights on at all times for visibility, and other vehicles including bikes must use them in darkness, low visibility or rain." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Visibility is greatly reduced in fog and high visibility clothing is less effective, so lights are definitely recommended. Lights can improve visibility on a clear day, especially for motorcycles and bikes, and this is more important in fog.", "In some places, motorcycles must have lights on at all times for visibility, and other vehicles including bikes must use them in darkness, low visibility or rain." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I have read an article regarding partial fairings for upright bikes .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is interesting that a partial fairing will reduce the energy needed to keep the bike rolling at 35km/h", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "while in a fairly relaxed riding position by about 1/4 (220 watts to about 160 watts)!!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Data sourced to David Gordon Wilson, Bicycling Science , 3rd ed., p.188).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So the heck with the speed or rain rationalizations: if you want to travel farther and conserve energy in the process (a.k.a. touring), a partial fairing should definitely be considered!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32534/bikenrun", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Well one of the main things is that a fairing is pretty inconvenient, say for locking up your bike (and may not be comfortable in a crash).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, the advantages aren't very high for speed for most bikes, given that you're not moving so quickly -- the main advantage for most people would be that it acts like a larger front fender.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But they are made, such as by these people : or in this thread which shows some more aero style fairings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want to go faster, get a more aggressive road bike rather than a hybrid and/or pedal faster.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I doubt many riders could get a significant advantage from a fairing on an upright bicycle unless they were racing (and if they were racing, they wouldn't be on a hybrid anyway).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For a velomobile or recumbent, the speeds you can reach are higher to begin with, and the locking problem is already big enough that it isn't too bad to add a fairing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You also have a less of a stability problem (say with crosswinds) than on an upright bike which makes the design somewhat simpler.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Are you trying to block rain or are you trying to be aerodynamic?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For rain, a front fairing doesn't do much unless you can get one where you can tuck your head behind while also going fast enough that the rain blows over you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In Japan, I've ridden mom bikes with fairings and can say that they do zilch for rain until you're going at least 20kph or higher.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For aerodynamics, fairings can also act like a sail which can lead to considerable instability.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One significantly nice thing on a recumbent is that the fairing will prevent you from eating bugs .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Since you're more upright, there is a tendency to consume more than on a road bike where you are facing downwards.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're planning on an extended trip at high speed (such as a cross-country run) it might be worth it, but otherwise you may find them to be a net disadvantage.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Only one way to know though -- try it!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "p.s.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There have been crowdfunded attempts at full fairings", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but they weren't funded -- I think most people don't think it worth putting something on full-time for something they'd only use on rainy days and which might also block your vision (note lack of windshield wipers).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even bicyclists in Seattle just use rain gear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Fairings work, and work well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I had one, about like the Zipper pictured, on a bike I rode from the west side of Bainbridge to Ballard (Seattle area) and back every day for years.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wind was common on that route, and I was wet as often as not.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The fairing was noticeably faster, and more comfortable, than the bare bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39804/classicalgas", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Zzipper Fairings in the USA make handlebar mount fairings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've used the same one on and off for 30 years!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Great product.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So much faster than without.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29415/Charlie Cole", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Do front fairings have an advantage for upright bicycles? There are fairings for recumbent bicycles such as this Zipper one: I wanted to know if anybody has experienced increase in speed/reduction in air drag with a fairing [with an upright hybrid]. I saw the body of F40 bike( http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/ ) and I was wondering if such an aero design exists for upright bikes and if doesn't, exist would making such a aero design for upright bike worthwhile?", "title": "Fairings for an Upright Hybrid Bicycle?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<hybrid-bike><recumbent>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25108", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2043/munish" }

[ [ "There is no consensu as to whether fairings increase speed or decrease air drag. Some people love them, others are not so keen. On the negative side, apparently in rain, a front fairing doesn't do much unless you can get one where you can tuck your head behind while also going fast enough that the rain blows over you. Moreover, with regard to aerodynamics, fairings can also act like a sail which can lead to considerable instability. On the positive side some say fairings work, and work well. Some believe that if you want to travel farther and conserve energy in the process (a.k.a. touring), a partial fairing should definitely be considered! On the other hand, if you want to go faster, get a more aggressive road bike rather than a hybrid and/or pedal faster.", "There is a difference of opinion on their effectiveness, where some claim that they do not improve efficiency or protect against rain, while others claim that they are much more efficient. Fairings have a much clearer advantage on recumbent bicycles, which already have a low profile. A fairing on an upright bike may present a sail area on a tailwind or crosswind, and may cause problems in a crash. Fairings may be effective on longer tours at high speed, but can be awkward for normal use. The aerodynamic advantages may be easier to obtain with a faster road bike." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "There is a difference of opinion on their effectiveness, where some claim that they do not improve efficiency or protect against rain, while others claim that they are much more efficient. Fairings have a much clearer advantage on recumbent bicycles, which already have a low profile. A fairing on an upright bike may present a sail area on a tailwind or crosswind, and may cause problems in a crash.", "Fairings may be effective on longer tours at high speed, but can be awkward for normal use. The aerodynamic advantages may be easier to obtain with a faster road bike." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Everyone climbs at their own best rate and cadence.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On a tandem, both riders have to ride at the same rate and cadence, which will be closest to those of the strongest rider.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So neither of them are climbing at their best rate and cadence.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On a tandem with very well matched riders , they are in fact quicker, largely due to the draughting effect of the two riders being so close together.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand, if the hill is so steep that the riders would have to stand, it becomes a matter of rider skills.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Many tandem riders struggle to master the two-person coordination of efforts required to make the transition to the standing position.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8273/andy256", "score": 25 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When climbing a hill on single it is normal to rock the bike side-to-side as you climb.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This rarely matches exactly for both riders.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's similar to the way people run slower in a three legged race.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13745/Jeff Bell", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Coordination:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When riding in a group of singles, it can be hard to stay together on a hill climb, because everyone climbs at different paces.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It depends on so many factors, weight, gear ratios, preferred cadence, getting out of the saddle when it feels comfortable and so on.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Being forced to climb faster or even slower than you'd like to can upset a rider's rhythm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On a tandem it's more likely that your hill-climbing rhythm will be awkward.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the captain wants to stand up, the cadence becomes more \"stompy\", leaving the stoker feeling they're not able to put much power in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the stoker stands, they can end up rubbing their face on the captain's back.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If they both stand, then the tandem can be hard to control unless the captain is much heavier and stronger than the stoker.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Power-to-weight ratio:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A tandem with two light riders feels similar in pace to a single with a heavy rider.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most heavier riders are slower on climbs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Lack of aerodynamic advantage: The Coordination factor above is more than compensated for on the flat by a tandem's aerodynamic advantage: 195% power for perhaps 120% aerodynamic drag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, air resistance is negligible on a climb.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It may be that other sources of drag are not reduced so much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For example: Rolling resistance may be similar to two singles due to the similar weight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In addition to the stated answers there is also a psychological reason: the Ringelmann effect .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The more people work together on a task, the less each individuals' effort unconsciously (even if everyone thinks he does his best) becomes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This was first observed on rope pulling and the decrease in performance", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it is not explainable by synchronisation inefficiency alone.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This effect applies even for groups of only two people: (Ingham, Levinger, Graves, & Peckman, 1974) attempted to repeat this experiment in 1974 because they were unsure of the early methodology and descriptions of Ringelmann's earlier study.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Had groups of 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 perform the rope pulling task.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Groups of 2 performed at 91% of potential, 3 at 82%, 4 at 78%, 5 at 78%, 6 at 78%.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Source", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10944/Konrad Höffner", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It is not harder to ride uphill if your captain and stoker are in perfect unity .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I ride a tandem with my wife a lot, and I find it way easier to climb hills with a stoker than riding single.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have the proper communication, then it's literally two people riding one bike, which is double the power of one person riding one bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The real disadvantage of riding tandem, is drag , two people and a bigger bike don't cut though the air like one person on a compact frame does.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which is why tandem track-racing times are typically a couple seconds slower than single rider times.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Well, that and the fact that tandem track races are typically for disabled people, like at the paralympics, where the stoker is disabled, and the captain isn't allowed to be a pro racer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But on hill climbs, where aerodynamics isn't a factor, tandem racers annihilate single racers on the hill climbs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some pairs of people may struggle on a tandem because their riding styles are different, as others have mentioned already this only matters if you're doing something like riding out of the saddle, on a tandem bike", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "you can't be two minds, you have to ride as one mind.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14392/ShemSeger", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "With equal power to weight ratio, why is a tandem bike harder to ride uphill? I have friends whose Cannondale tandem bike weighs the same as their single rider bikes combined. But they find it easier to climb hills (compared to the bunch) on single rider bikes than on the tandem. They are experienced tandem riders.", "title": "Why is a tandem harder to ride uphill than a single rider bike?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tandems>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25881", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13433/Phillip Ngan" }

[ [ "It depends on so many factors, weight, gear ratios, preferred cadence, getting out of the saddle when it feels comfortable and so on. Some pairs of people may struggle on a tandem because their riding styles are different, this only matters if you're doing something like riding out of the saddle, on a tandem bike. On a tandem with very well matched riders , they are in fact quicker, largely due to the draughting effect of the two riders being so close together. In other words, the speed of the tandem depends on how well matched the two riders are.", "Tandem bikes require the riders to work together. Where riders are well matched and cooperate, they can be much more effective on hills than single riders. When the cooperation stops, a rider standing up, changing cadence, wobbling or acting erratically can upset the balance and counteract the effort of the other rider." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Tandem bikes require the riders to work together. Where riders are well matched and cooperate, they can be much more effective on hills than single riders. When the cooperation stops, a rider standing up, changing cadence, wobbling or acting erratically can upset the balance and counteract the effort of the other rider." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "A polite nod, wave or smile usually suffices.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It doesn't need to be much, where I live in the UK raising one or two fingers from the steering wheel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "is plenty when driving.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not sure about down south , I've heard it's a fairly local thing, but I don't imagine it being too different.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5757/alex", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I use a sort of wave, raising my hand but with no movement in it (so not a 'Hey buddy' or 'I need help' side to side movement)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": ".... it works on my bicycle, on my motorcycle, and while driving a vehicle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's got somewhat of a dual purpose: acknowledgement that I did something wrong, and/or", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "'thanks for letting me in' gratitude gesture.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is the same gesture I seem to get from many other people.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's no side/side or waving motion (would be more like \"Hi!\"), just a hand up, fingers together, \"Thanks/Sorry\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3777/Ehryk", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This would generally come down to you locality as some cultures would consider certain gestures rude.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I guess there isn't a universal sign for thank you, but in most cultures I think a wave of the hand (more of a raise the hand and show the palm slightly) with a courteous smile or nod would do the trick.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I tend to vary between a wave of the hand or a thumbs up followed by a wave of the hand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A smile always tends to convey gratitude, but that depends on whether you can be seen clearly or not.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17159/Michael", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Motorists (I'm both a cyclist and motorist) use to salute with each other making a \"V\" sign with the index and middle fingers of the hand with the palm forward.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "At least it's that way in southern Europe, don't know in other parts of the world.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They would understand that with as a symbol of empathy to them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/871/Narcís Calvet", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One thing we do in France is to take off one of your legs from the pedal and put it on the side (usually your leg on the side of the motorist you want to thank).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which looks a little like this : The fact that you take the time to do it and stop a little your effort by taking off your feet from the pedal is usually well considered by motorists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17199/Loufylouf", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Often motorist do something that makes me wish they had stayed at home, but they also frequently do nice things too. Like slowing down to let me in to the lane, or making sure that they overtake with plenty of room etc... Is there an unambiguous gesture that means \"thank you\"? I don't want to confuse people about my intentions (by using a gesture that could be interpreted as something else) but it would be nice to show appreciation.", "title": "How to thank motorists?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<signals><transport-by-car><bike-vs-car>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28756", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17187/Jekowl" }

[ [ "A thank you gesture to motorists depends on culture and location. In the US the majority of cyclists seem to favor a raised hand, palm outwards, fingers together. a thumbs up sign orjust a smille. In France removing a leg from the pedal is the custom. Different cultures presumably have other acceptable gestures.", "There is no universal sign, but a smile, nod, holding a hand up, a thumbs up sign or waving is usually understood to be friendly. Some cultures will interpret certain signs differently than others, and may have their own accepted signs that can be used." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "There is no universal sign, but a smile, nod, holding a hand up, a thumbs up sign or waving is usually understood to be friendly.", "Some cultures will interpret certain signs differently than others, and may have their own accepted signs that can be used." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "It's hard to tell from the photo ( is that large vertical streak said crack? ), but if your frame is cracked, don't use it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Riding on a cracked frame is risky as it could result in a catastrophic failure / injury / death.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks like that's probably a steel frame, so find a local frame builder ( not your buddy who's handy with a welder ), and depending on the damage they may be able to repair it for you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5237/Scott Hillson", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I am going to get beat up for this but", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "steel frames don't fail catastrophically.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Pull that post.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the end of the post is in the middle of the crack then look for a longer post.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Get a seat post that extends at least 2\" below the bottom of the crack and ideally 4\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The post reinforces the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Mark the two ends of the crack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the crack grows stop riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I know this is kind of ghetto but put a couple hose clamps on the crack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "That old frame is not really worth a professional repair.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But you may be able to get a couple more years out of it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If that was an aluminum frame I would tell you to throw it away.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Honestly, how much did this bike cost?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks to be at least 30 years old, judging by the tire and brakes we see in this picture, and even when it was new, I doubt it was worth repairing this kind of damage.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The cost of repairing it would be far in excess of buying a new bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now, if you'd spent $1500 on it, even 30 years ago, well, maybe it's worth it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But probably not.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My guess is that $300 would have been an excessive amount when it was new, and the bill to repair this crack would be larger than that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2442/Ernie", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Dawes Galaxy?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Looks like an older model - so a good quality touring frameset - possibly Reynolds tubing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Anyway, what price do you put on sentimentality?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not sure where the idea of long seatpost comes from as the picture doesn't show it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if you are UK based a company like Argos cycles can easily fix that frame for you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Its a welding job - so the frame could be resprayed and Dawes decals reapplied.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "On their website they quote £120 for a seat tube repair", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but this is a complete replacement of the seat tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So yours may be different.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A full respray is £135.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/16979/OraNob", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A couple of years ago we had a new seat tube fitted to my wifes bike (a 20 year old Claud Butler Lady Dale) after it sheared where it joined the top tube - this was on a step through frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fortunately we live close enough to Roberts, one of the few frame builders in the UK, to be able to deliver it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had to strip the frame for them and it cost about £150.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They completely stripped the paint off the frame", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so we had it powder coated - approx", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "£100.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "We did this as she really likes the bike and finds it comfortable for long rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't think that we could get something similar for the price.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want to get a new seat tube, you will probably have to send it away.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "None of the local bike shops would consider it - they make money selling new bikes after all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think that only Mercian and Roberts offered a quote.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hopefully this has given you an idea of the costs and what is involved.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you like your bike as it is then it can be a viable option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I suspect that the longer seat post may be the cheaper alternative.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4447/DanS", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I just fixed mine", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I took it to a local welding shop in London, they charged me only £8, it's not pretty", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but it works fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I made this little video", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/35337/Sabba Keynejad", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I noticed the other day that my frame has a crack in it! I believe that it's my seat post causing the problem. A couple of questions really, a) how serious is this? and b) can it be repaired? Edit: I've added a picture of the height of the seat-post to give some extra context on whether or not the frame is too small for me. I've never thought that the seat was crazy high or anything; is it?", "title": "What can I do about a cracked frame?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<frames><steel><crack>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28854", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1560/Matthew" }

[ [ "Riding on a cracked frame is risky as it could result in a catastrophic failure / injury / death. Some people believe it is worth repairing a frame crack but others think that the cost of repairing it would be the same or more than buying a new bike. All are agreed that riding with a cracked frame is dangerous. ", "Generally you should never use any bike with a cracked frame, but this may not actually be the case here. Unlike carbon or aluminium, steel frames do not fail catastrophically and can be welded and resprayed. If the crack grows, stop riding. Some users argue that the necessary professional welding would be more expensive than the bike was worth, and suggest that the bike should be replaced or the cracked frame strengthened with a longer seat post or hose clamps." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Generally you should never use any bike with a cracked frame, but this may not actually be the case here. Unlike carbon or aluminium, steel frames do not fail catastrophically and can be welded and resprayed. If the crack grows, stop riding.", "Some users argue that the necessary professional welding would be more expensive than the bike was worth, and suggest that the bike should be replaced or the cracked frame strengthened with a longer seat post or hose clamps." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "While I agree that there are no real risks to string your wheels by the rim, there are a number of DIY and commercial wall mounted racks for hanging wheels at the axle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Wheelzrack makes one good option, and even integrates a storage shelf for shoes and helmets.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They support up to for sets of wheels, which may be a good option in your case.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Feedback sports used to offer a Wheel Arm system, which had a bolt-to-wall mounting option (note: the Wheel Arm is no longer listed on home page", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "but they sell alternate models).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These are designd for shop displays, but will work in the home as well, assuming your significant other is tolerant. :-)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hope that is helpful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "As suggested by this answer , there's really no problem with hanging wheels or even an entire bike up by the rims.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's a good idea to pad the hook to avoid scratches, but this should be easy enough with some cheap foam or even tape.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Failing that, a narrow shelf with some blocks either side of each wheel to stop them rolling away would work and take up little space.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I imagine you could even use a short loop of rope to hold a couple of wheels.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "To avoid touching the rims, you could loop this between the spokes and around the hub.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the wall is rough, cover it with some cardboard or thin foam/rubber.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If they are QR hubs you could remove the skewer and pass a length of cord through the axle, then knot it, so that the wheel could be hung by the cord.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have an old steel coffee-table leg screwed to the wall of my carport by the flanges at the top of the leg.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It holds about 6 random rims normally, and sticks out slightly upwards To get more space and protect the nicer aluminium ones, I use a length of ribbon or soft rope like sash cord.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This goes around the rim and is tied in a loop with ~100 mm of slack.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then the loop is hooked over the leg and left to hang.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Works well for me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Advantage - soft cloth is in contact with the rim.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Downside -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "its still hanging by the rim.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another option might be a frame somewhat more like a dishrack but for storing wheels?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Advantage - rims are protected Downside - you'll have to make it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And it will chew up floor space unless you make a wall-mounted one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Final thought -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "how about one of these cheap wheel stands for each one?", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Advantage - Just buy them, no making required Downside - Floor space used up/clutter Plus", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "even cheap ones are $11-$12 US each which adds up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Put them in wheel bags and simply hang the bags up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Keeps wheels protected, clean and dust free.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That's what I do.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13358/alexsimmons", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Another option, very simple DYI is to make a pair of clamps for each wheel, eg.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "metal plates (spacers?) , big enough to drill two holes: one to put axle through and one to pass cord through.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hang that cord on the hook or wherever you like.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25953/krzyski", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You either need to use the axle or support from below if you are not wanting to hang from the rim.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're going to slide them on a skewer then the other answers have plenty of suggestions.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're supporting from below, assuming you are leaning them against the wall", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then you need either a shelf or 2 poles perpendicular the the wall.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could hold poles up with shelf brackets and since your wheels will be light anyway you could get several deep.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could anchor the end of the poles to the ceiling too if need be.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26481/Chris", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "HANG THEM BY", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "THE RIMSeriously get some hooks with a rubber coating on the outside from something like home depot or lowes or Amazon.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then hang up the wheels.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "YOU WILL NOT SCRATCH THE RIMS.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I hang my zipp 808 like this and they are fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Heck, they are fine even when they have a bike attached.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Look man I get beeing protective about the wheelset you just dropped hundreds of dollars on but you will waste more of your precious money or time if you don't go this route.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thats my 2 cents.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Best of luck to you", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23778/KidCoder", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I have 5 pair of extra wheels, which I would like to store on the wall efficiently. I am a little skittish about storing them using the rim since some of them are carbon wheels and I don't want to risk scratches. Any suggestions?", "title": "How can I store my extra wheels on the wall efficiently, without hanging them by the rim?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<wheels><storage>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30161", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19188/Nyotom" }

[ [ "There are no real risks to string your wheels by the rim, there are a number of DIY and commercial wall mounted racks for hanging wheels at the axle. Wheelzrack makes one good option, and even integrates a storage shelf for shoes and helmets. Feedback sports used to offer a Wheel Arm system, which had a bolt-to-wall mounting option. Another option might be a frame somewhat more like a dishrack but for storing wheels. You either need to use the axle or support from below if you are not wanting to hang from the rim. Other alternatives included a short loop of rope or using wheel bags.", "There should be no risk from hanging wheels or an entire bike from suitably padded hooks, although there are commercially available racks that hold wheels from the axle or base. These can also be built yourself. Wheels could also be suspended with rope rather than hooks, or placed in wheel bags that are hung from hooks." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "There should be no risk from hanging wheels or an entire bike from suitably padded hooks, although there are commercially available racks that hold wheels from the axle or base. These can also be built yourself.", "Wheels could also be suspended with rope rather than hooks, or placed in wheel bags that are hung from hooks." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I think you would be much better off converting an old kids trailer .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They can be found pretty cheap on Craigslist.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18992/JamesG", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There are trailers in a similar form factor, like the Burley Travoy (no recommendation, just the first I found), that are made for the purpose.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "These will be a lot more stable than any home made conversion of something that was never designed to go faster than slow walking pace.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7279/linac", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For my daily commute and for moderate sized weekly grocery trips I use two waste baskets, permanently mounted, each with 6 gallon capacity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They serve as waterproof hard shells into which I can insert any bags, backpacks, clothes etc, that I want.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5694/user5694", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I go grocery shopping with my bike all the time, I put groceries in touring panniers mounted on a rear rack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They are a little cumbersome to load", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I can fit a lot of stuff.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can't fit a week's worth of groceries for a family of 5, though, so it depends on your situation.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For a solution more elegant for shopping, you can buy square-shaped shopping panniers which will more easily allow you to carry canvas shopping bags full of groceries.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "These are very popular in Holland where bikes are a primary mode of transit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "( http://dutchbikeshop.ie/wp-content/uploads/wp-checkout/images/fastrider-pannier-cargo-1423825156.jpg ) One word of caution for most bikes in the US-- you'll have to watch out for heel clearance with a square bag like this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're serious about hauling a lot of stuff then you should get a cargo bike, like the Surly Big Dummy or something with a frame-mounted front rack (Workcycles).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18889/Ryan Silva", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There are several manufacturers who offer rod supported quick connect pannier bags which you can easily detach from your bikes rear rack, shop and load them, then rehook to the bike and ride home.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They work great and are inexpensive.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One such company is Performance Bicycle.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28737/Louis S.", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I agree with Blams comment, I don't think you would want to pull that cart behind a bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since you still want to take it into the store, maybe use that cart & mount it on a flatbed trailer with bungee cords.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Something like this maybe: http://www.burley.com/page_453/flatbedsuptmsup", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18919/renesis", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Many grocery stores do deliveries.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "There's also taxis.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Living without a car and having to get groceries for my family has taught me that bicycles aren't always the best solution.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "About once a month plan a big trip and get a list of all the heavy, non-perishables items you will need.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "This will include canned goods, frozen meats and vegetables, dried goods like pasta or rice, and other non food items like laundry soap.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The other stuff you need to bet fresh doesn't weigh that much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Exceptions are things like milk, but sometimes I make a special trip just for that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's an excuse to ride my bike more, and I just go to the corner store because it's only a short trip, and it's the same price everywhere.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, learn to shop light.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't buy liquids like pop or juice.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Water is healthier anyway and comes right out of a pipe fed into your house.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want juice, try frozen concentrate.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll spend money on deliveries, about $8 a shot here, but you won't have to buy a trailer, and surely your bike will appreciate not having to tow heavy loads.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Can I take a shopping cart like say this one and safely attach it to a bike? I'd like to also take it into the store with me as well.", "title": "Grocery Shopping by bike, expanding my cargo options cheaply", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<cargo><trailer>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30442", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5518/Rick" }

[ [ "For daily grocery shopping on a bike panniers seem to be the preferred option. For larger shopping trips, a trailer of some kind or a cargo bike are recommended. Maybe it is a good idea to consider deliveries for the monthly shop. It is important to learn to shop light and avoid buying liquids as much as possible. ", "It could be better to convert a kids trailer or use a trailer similar to that shopping cart like the Burley Travoy. Cargo bikes or frame-mounted racks provide more luggage space on the bike itself, and are designed for this purpose. You may not need to transport as much shopping if you plan monthly trips for heavy non-perishable items or have shopping delivered." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Pannier racks would be more elegant and suitable for a bike.", "It could be better to convert a kids trailer or use a trailer similar to that shopping cart like the Burley Travoy. Cargo bikes or frame-mounted racks provide more luggage space on the bike itself.", "You may not need to transport as much shopping if you plan monthly trips for heavy non-perishable items or have shopping delivered." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes, you can use them with normal shoes, but as you predict, it isn't very comfortable, especially if your shoes have thin, flexible soles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, there's a risk of your foot slipping off, particularly in the wet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are various options to temporarily convert clip pedals into ordinary flat ones.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fly pedals", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "BBB BPD FeetRest pedal adaptors (SPD only)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 13 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "UPDATE:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use Fly Pedals now when I want to convert my clipless pedals into regular pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are made of machined aluminum, light weight, and lock together so you can put them in your pocket.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They cost $50 plus cleats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "enter link description here", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This company (started on Kickstarter) makes flat platforms with straps on top and cleats on the bottom.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They convert clipless pedals into toe clips.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A pair runs $55 without the actual cleats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5360/Gary E", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is nothing to stop you from getting on your bike in regular trainers instead of shoes with cleats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "you won't damage your pedals in any way as long as you don't have a rock lodged in the sole of your shoe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The problem, as far as I can see it, is that it is just not very comfortable due to the small surface area and flexible sole of the shoe.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Your feet will feel the pressure localized into a very small area.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The other issue is grip.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There isn't a lot of traction since the body of the pedal wasn't designed with that in mind.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I do my own mechanics out if my garage and will occasionally hop on the bike I'm working on to make sure my repair or adjustment is working properly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have bikes with Ritchey Logic, Speedplay frogs, SpeedPlay Zeros, Shimano SPD and non-clipless pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't go and put on the proper shoes just to ride down the street and back while I test an adjustment.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So, yes, you can ride without shoes with cleats but really only in a very limited way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19581/elessar007", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes you can.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "No it's not going to be comfortable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You're more likely to slip off the pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One alternative is to get double sided pedals where one side of the pedal has an SPD mount and the other side is a flat pedal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I've been running Shimano M324 pedals on my commuter", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so I can hop on with casual shoes or use my cycling shoes for more power on longer rides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's the worst of both worlds, so you'll find yourself trying to flip the pedal from time to time, but it's a doable option that gives you flexibility without having to swap pedals all the time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Unfortunately, I don't know of any other type of shoe / cleat combination that works with dual sided pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It seems that only shimano mountain SPD seems to offer this option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're already sold on road pedals, then it's probably not going to work like this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might just want to invest in a set of flat pedals and swap your pedals when you want to ride without clipless shoes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have used normal office shoes on look road pedals (albeit shoes with relatively thick soles)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This works fine for to/from work or lunchtime errands.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However I found that pedalling on the \"underside\" of the pedal was more comfortable in some thin-soled shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not ideal but workable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another option, try clipping a plastic cleat in the pedal, an older and worn-out one would be perfect.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Plus you can remove it when you want to ride with proper shoes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have look clipless on my road bike, but I put platforms back on my MTB for trips around town, mostly because our roads are still terrible, and the MTB has better brakes and more load-carrying capacity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Cleats may not be best for you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Don’t wear sneakers over clip-less pedals!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Didn’t feel bad then", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but when I woke up with ball area of the foot swollen with terrible pain.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Icing as I text.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I knew better too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/49374/Frank D", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Is it possible to use regular trainers/shoes (i.e., withou cleats) with clipless pedals? A friend of mine mentioned he does this all the time. However, I cannot imagine how this would work. Surely the area of grip would be far too small to get any kind of purchase on the pedals. We both have Shimano PD-R540 SPD pedals.", "title": "Can I use \"normal\" shoes/trainers with clipless pedals?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shoes><clipless><cleat><pedals-clipless>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30662", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18733/kaybee99" }

[ [ "You can ride a bike in normal shoes without cleats but there are some disadvantages. First, the shoe will tend to slip off the pedal. Second, it will feel uncomfortable for the rider. It is, however, possible to convert your clip pedals into flat ones or you can get double-sided pedals. Alternatively, you could get a set of flat pedals to use when you don't want to wear cleats.", "You can use normal shoes without damaging your pedals, but the pedals will be uncomfortable and slip easily. A better solution might be to switch to double-sided or flat pedals, or use adapters that temporarily convert clipless pedals to flat pedals." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "You can use normal shoes without damaging your pedals, but the pedals will be uncomfortable and slip easily.", "Fly Pedals are clips that temporarily convert clipless pedals to flat pedals.", "A better solution might be to switch to double-sided or flat pedals." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "The single-legged fork must truly withstand heavier bending forces than conventional forks, simply due to physics and asymmetricity.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "But because of its different construction, the fork is actually stiffer than most", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "2-legged. Pros The top is attached like a dual crown downhill fork, which is much stiffer than a single-crown.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The wheel axle is one-piece with the bottom part, which is stiffer than a quick-release axle (which is not solid at all) and on same level as a 15 thru-axle or 20 thru-axle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This design is used also on cars where the wheel doesn't have support from the other side.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The biggest difference is inside.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "While normal forks have round tubes that slide on oil film, the Lefty uses needle bearings on a square profile (same as the front leg of Boeing airliners.): Such solution works with almost same friction under heavy side-loads, whereas sliding tubes, when side-loaded (uneven compression of legs), do get friction losses (rolling resistance wins).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Having conventional fork with one leg wouldn't work, such a fork would get stuck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Having bearing-fitted 2-legged fork is an overkill and unnecessary weight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The heaviest Lefty is still lighter than lightest carbon 2-legged.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can replace the tire without removing the wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cons", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you need to remove the front wheel, you need to remove the brake caliper also.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The axle works only with Cannondale hubs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The front of bike will look unbalanced until you get used to it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pre-2013 models of Lefty are not sealed, having the bearings track just under a rubber sleeve.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This required almost constant maintenance.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Post-2013 models have a rubber-sealed leg with bearings further inside and with one plain bearing at the bottom which allows for service intervals as normal forks: Previous models, as some bikers on forums complained, had more linear action: they were easier to bottom than normal forks.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So now the newer ones should have more progressive compression.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(This is opinion based, but quite a lot of it online, there are no measurements.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A Lefty is much harder to service than a normal fork.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You need a couple of special tools, and the assembly is complicated.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19624/Jerryno", "score": 36 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My experience with Lefty goes back to 2000 when I purchased my Cannondale", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Super V. One thing I've liked about it", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "how easy it is to 'turn off'.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's a small dial at the top that disengages the suspension - good when transitioning onto solid road riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "As mentioned above by another post, the center of balance is altered.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The implication of which is that it is more difficult to ride 'hands free'.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sometimes I ride hands free with it just to practice my balancing skills.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I seem to remember that the original intent was that lefty offered a longer(higher) range of motion and thus the bike was able to handle more adverse terrain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm not sure if that's actually true, but it sounded good at the time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you do get one, you'll find it to be a conversation piece.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since it hasn't been widely adopted, I'd imagine that the benefits are not overwhelming.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And one last thing, I've always considered the bike to be \"much more of a bike than I am a man\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24422/SRQ Coder", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Pro: You can run oversize and plus size tyres on a lefty.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26262/Mark Rose", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Like everyone, the first time I saw this fork I find it obvious that it must be weaker than conventional forks... Until I realized that conventional forks are not symmetrical at all.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One side is the spring (air or metal spring) and the other side is the damper.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This means the sides always works against each other.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The fork is teared a on its sides and it do not behave exactly the same whether you turn left or right.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The forces are not applied to the same side of the plunger and it does not slide evenly on both sides.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Having damper and spring on the same axle is a good point for the lefty.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Unfortunately we cannot do blind test on bikes, but it would surely give lefty more points.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25323/bokan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Con: Because there is only one side on the fork, it limits you to using disc brakes only, since there is no place to mount any type of rim brake solution.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25698/K4N3", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Pro: There is no \"fork,\" so mud and other hub-bub will not get stuck in the front as much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31400/Adam", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'd add:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pro:probably less width overall, good for extreme mountain/trail bikingCon:center of balance is shifted off center line of tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19676/A Bee", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Looks like they save some weight, but how do they have a better strength/weight ratio than a traditional two legged fork? With the single-legged fork the fork and axle must resist huge bending all the time, producing even more of a problem than with the 2-legged fork under uneven compression. So how is this fork constructed and what advantages and disadvantages does this bring?", "title": "Pros and cons of single-sided forks (Cannondale Lefty)?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><fork><suspension><cannondale><lefty-fork>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30765", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19624/Jerryno" }

[ [ "Advantages of a Lefty: lighter, the tire can be replaced without removing the wheel, you can run oversize and plus size tires, there is no fork so mud, etc. will not get stuck in the front as much, damper and spring on the same axle. Disadvantages of a Lefty: You can only use disc brakes, it is harder to service, it feels unbalanced at first, the axle works only with Cannondale hubs, to remove the front wheel you need to remove the brake caliper. ", "Car wheels are also supported on only one side, so this is not as risky as it might seem. Normal bike forks have a damper and spring on different sides, so they are not symmetrical either. The needle bearings are also more resistant to friction losses under side loads than normal sliding tubes. While this system is light, easy to adjust for different road surfaces and reduces collection of mud, it is harder to service and can only be used with Cannondale hubs and disc brakes. Replacing a tyre is easier, but removing a wheel requires the brake calipers to be removed too." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Car wheels are also supported on only one side, so this is not as risky as it might seem. Normal bike forks have a damper and spring on different sides, so they are not symmetrical either. The needle bearings are also more resistant to friction losses under side loads than normal sliding tubes.", "While this system is light, easy to adjust for different road surfaces and reduces collection of mud, it is harder to service and can only be used with Cannondale hubs and disc brakes. Replacing a tyre is easier, but removing a wheel requires the brake calipers to be removed too." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "You have a couple different options.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think the cheapest would be to switch to a compact crankset which would change the front chainrings from 52-39 to 50-34.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm pretty sure you could do this while still using the same shifter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Changing the front shifter is required if you want to go from a double to a triple, as is changing the front derailleur.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you switch to a compact I'm pretty sure you can keep the same derailleur and shifter.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Another thing you'll want to look out for is the rear derailleur.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You currently have a short cage derailleur, and you may need a medium or long cage derailleur when you go with a compact crankset.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't think a triple should really be necessary on a 10 speed system.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have triple, but I have an 8 speed cassette.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I find in that case the triple is nice because you can still get lots of gear range while still keeping the gears close together, However, on a 10 or 11 speed cassette, this isn't really necessary.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I think that switch to a compact crankset is a much better option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, according to This post , the maximum cog size of a short cage Shimano short cage is 27 and the total drivetrain capacity is 29.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To use a larger cassette, you would have to switch out the rear derailleur.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you used a compact crankset, you should be probably also replace your rear derailler for a medium cage, as your total capacity would be (50-34) + (27-12) = 31.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, if you changed the cassette to a 12-25, you could get away with not replacing the rear derailleur and still getting a little bit lower gearing, although possibly not enough for your needs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You'll need to swap out your left (front) shifter and front derailleur to utilize all three chainrings of a triple.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Between the cost of that and the cranks, I think a better option would be to swap out your rear cassette for something with more range.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since you've already got a 12-27 on there, a 12-32 would give you", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I believe the range you need.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My hunch is that you'd be able to fudge it with your current short cage rear derailleur, but a medium cage mechanism will probably be less hassle in the long run.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since cassettes are consumables and need to be replaced periodically, this cost of the just rear mechanism is likely significantly less than the shifter, front mechanism, and the crankset.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5918/Paul H", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When you say two lower gears, you presumably have 25 and 27 as the largest gears in your cassette.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Does that mean 39/31 would be low enough?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so, the compact with a 34 will get you there, but 34/25 will be too high.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Shimano makes a 12/30 10speed cassette in the CS4600 line, which I have coupled to a 50/34 compact.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You will be in for a new rear derailleur that way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They also make a 11/32 11speed, but that needs new shifter as well.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This might avoid the crankset change, however.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10998/Ross Millikan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I wouldn't get a triple crankset, there's a reason why those are dying off of the market.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Consider instead changing your cassette and maybe your rings, if you're climbing a lot of steep hills and want a lower gear ratio, then what I would suggest trying first is swapping out your cassette with a mountain bike cassette, this may require you to also change your rear derailleur to a long arm derailleur, and you'll need a new chain, but you should change that whenever you change your cassette anyways.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you need a little bit more, then try swapping your small ring with something smaller.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You'll save money this way too, because you won't have to change out your crank or your shifter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14392/ShemSeger", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When I made this change 15 years ago, as well as the new triple chain rings I needed to change the bottom bracket - cotterless square taper type - (which needed to be longer to correct the chain line), front derallieur (needs to be able to cope with extra travel and larger difference in chainring sizes) and rear derallieur (needs to be able to cope with larger total difference in teeth).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You will also need to change your shifter to use the new range on the front.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4447/DanS", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I have a 2007 Specialized Tarmac Pro Double and I need some better gearing. I am doing more hill climbs and I feel that I need at least two lower gears than I already have. What would be the most efficient way to upgrade my bike. Would it be easy to get a triple chainring? Will I have to get a new derailleur? What else would I need to change?", "title": "What is the easiest to upgrade my chainrings from a double to a triple?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<road-bike><chainring>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31030", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14679/Zlatty" }

[ [ "There is some degree of disagreement about whether a new derailleur would be needed when moving from double to triple chain ring. Some think that by using a compact crankset, the original derailleur could be kept while others believe it would, nevertheless, be necessary to change the short cage derailleur for a medium or long cage. Others consider that even more part would need to be changed, for example the shifter.", "A triple chainset could require changing the bottom bracket as well as the front derailleur and shifter. A compact crankset would be cheaper and allow you to keep most of your current components. You could also change the cassette to something more suitable to your needs." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A triple chainset could require changing the bottom bracket as well as the front derailleur and shifter. A compact crankset would be cheaper and allow you to keep most of your current components.", "You could also change the cassette to something more suitable to your needs." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I recommend removing the disc rotors when you travel with a bike regardless of the packaging method.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have a hard sided case and have done the cardboard box thing", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(my fat bike does not fit in my hard sided case).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Hard sided cases rely on compression to keep everything in place; compression against the flat side of a rotor is not a good thing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Remove the rotors and pack them on each side of a piece of rigid material that will reinforce them and tape the whole thing up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They can be easily put back on with the proper Torx wrench.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If this seems like overkill, keep in mind TSA WILL unpack your bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Do not bother closing a cardboard box before getting to the airport, because they will just cut it open.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I leave the box open and leave a roll of tape on top for them to seal it with.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I pack any loose items in the box with the understanding that they will be removed and likely reinserted in a different spot inside the box/case.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That being the case, you want loose items padded or enclosed in something for when they end up someplace you didn't intend them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I usually make sure to take all the same tools I used to disassemble the bike and pack them as well (usually in a separate padded bag) in the same box/container.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have always favored the center lock rotors because they were easier on and off for travel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13710/Deleted User", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have flown 6x with my bike (Cyclocross Disc) in a soft padded bike bag and never once had issues with the rotors.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Numerous other MTB friends never remove the rotors either and have not had trouble when flying.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Echoing the comment by @Daniel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ", I'd be more focussed on the dropouts and RD and making sure those are supported.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You are way more at risk stripping / losing screws than bending a disc.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The wheels will be double padded by the wheel bag and the bike bag.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10723/sjakubowski", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A torque wrench is definitely recommended, but some people develop a \"feel\" for the correct torque.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There is usually blue threadlocker compound on the screws.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are small, cheap simple \"flexion\" torque keys that do the job quite well.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "My MTB came with one, actually.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23382/B00g", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A few years late,", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I thought I'd share my two cents", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- I recently flew with my mountain bike in an EVOC bike bag, and my front rotor did actually get bent out of shape beyond repair (according the local bike shop).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "So, I would recommend always removing the rotors.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20811/user1515657", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Since posting this question I went on a tour for a few months which involved flying with my bike twice.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Both times it was packed in a cardboard bike box from a bike shop.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It may have been unclear in my original question, but my question was specifically about the disc rotors, not how to pack a bike in general.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When searching elsewhere", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I found there was lots of info about general bike packing, e.g. remove the rear derailleur", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "wrap it in padding, use a dummy axle for the fork, etc, but I didn't find a lot of info on disc brakes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anyway, to be safe I removed the rotors, interleaved them with sheets of clean paper towel to avoid contamination (so three sheets total), then sandwiched them between two squares of press-board, which I then wrapped with duct tape.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This may indeed be overkill", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but I'm sure it can't hurt.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To keep the torx screws safe, I put them back in the holes they go in and screwed them in a few rotations.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I put the brakes back on I did not use any special alignment tool or torque wrench, I just used the torx driver on my multi-tool and put them in by hand.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11416/SSilk", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The thing ive found an issue isn't the rotors but actually the headset/stem (especially an integrated one piece setup) being the issue.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My friend has a Specialized Venge Vias (disc) and he obviously had to remove the headset to turn the bars to fit into the rigid bike case.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Removing the bar/stem means that there's no spare cable/hose", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so he had to", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "have the brakes bled then re cabled when he arrived there and the same when he got back as they dont like being taken apart.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "an expensive trip just to take a disc braked bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38778/Gareth", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "I've been looking at a few tutorials on packing a bike to take it on a plane, and most of them make no mention of disc brakes. One did specifically mention disc brakes, and recommended taking the rotors off and sandwiching them between two small sheets of plywood to stop them getting bent or warped. Any thoughts on this? Can you just put them back on with the allen key bolts that attach them? Or do you need special alignment tools and a torque wrench?", "title": "Should disc brake rotors be removed when packing bike for travel?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<disc-brake><transportation>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31097", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11416/SSilk" }

[ [ "Most people recommend removing the disc rotors before taking a bike on a plane as there is a riscK of them getting bent. However, others have flown with the bike intact and had no issues. General consensus is that they should be packed in a protective bag as should all loose items, like screws, that may get lost and the tools needed to replace them. ", "Some commenters suggest that the bike bag will provide enough protection without removing the rotors, but others disagree and recommend reinforcing, padding and storing them separately. A torque wrench should be used to disassemble the components, and the tools can be packed along with the bike for later assembly." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Some commenters suggest that the bike bag will provide enough protection without removing the rotors, but others disagree and recommend reinforcing, padding and storing them separately.", "A torque wrench should be used to disassemble the components, and the tools can be packed along with the bike for later assembly." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I'm going to say yes based on this photo.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It looks that the hole is big enough to pass over just about any axle, quick release or nutted.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I think what is throwing you off is that it comes with a quick release skewer that is longer than what is typically used for wheels.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may not need that provided skewer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Burley uses a similar one and I was able to put the hitch on a Jamis bike using the skewers that came with the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If your bike has the internal gear hub, it probably has anti rotation washer (special washers to keep the axle from turning).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This hitch would mount to the outside of that washer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6782/BPugh", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have a Chariot (now Thule) cart attached to my Brompton (with internal gears).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It has the standard adapter (similar to the one in the picture above) and works fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I didn't have to do any adaptations.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The only issue is that the cart leans forward due to the 20\" wheel but my little one does just fine.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24183/JoseCarlos", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "How much \"like\" does it have to be?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have seen trailers that clamp onto the seat post.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "These have the added advantage that when unhooked from the bike, you can use it like a hand truck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I used to go grocery shopping with a Burley axle-mount, and had to rearrange the groceries when I lowered the tow-bar to axle height.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In one model I saw, the cargo compartment was easily removable from the frame and had straps to make it a backpack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "UPDATE: I now have a Cyclone IV Chubby .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the road, my supplies go inside it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I get to an airport, I empty it, fold the Brompton and put it inside.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Surround it by whatever else will fit and check that in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The rest goes in the backpack for carry-on.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Downside:", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "excess baggage fees Radical Design makes other trailers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This person uses a child trailer with Brompton", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13605/WGroleau", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This should work.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I use the Thule Chinook 1 with my Brompton folding bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The only inconvenience is that the front wheel is best not folded down but removed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The clearance with the ground is too low.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But when you remove the front wheel, it works perfectly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Based on this experience I would say yes!", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26197/Christopher", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes i can confirm that a Thule Chariot goes great on a Brompton.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The clearance from the road to the coupling is clearly lower than on a larger-wheeled bike but it handles well and has not slowed us down at all.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46920/Zadi", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I wonder if I can use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar? It uses the so called Thule Axle Mount and I wonder if it is compatible to the bike. At this point, it is just advanced planning and I can't test the possible setup. What do you think, any experiences?", "title": "Can I use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<trailer><brompton>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31288", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11069/lejonet" }

[ [ "Many cyclists confirm that a Thule Chariot goes great on a Brompton. There may be a few little issues to deal with, like slight leaning forwards, but nothing major.", "Yes, this is possible, but the weight should be adjusted to prevent the cart leaning forward too much. The front wheel should also be removed rather than folded away due to the low clearance. Other trailers that clamp to the seat post may be easier." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Yes, this is possible, but the weight should be adjusted to prevent the cart leaning forward too much. The front wheel should also be removed rather than folded away due to the low clearance.", "Other trailers that clamp to the seat post may be easier." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "This is what I tell everyone to get first when they get a new bike: Seatbag, to hold the following: Spare tube (maybe two) Small multitool Mini-pump or CO2 inflator Tire patch kit 2x tire levers That assumes you have bidons and cages.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Those six things should get you by for many miles and should get you out of any trailside emergencies.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As with anything though, make sure you know how to use them when the need arises.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For your own personal bike shop, I'd recommend a good floor pump with a pressure gauge, some high quality chain lube, and a maintenance book for DIY repairs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Also a helmet should be entirely recommended as a required purchase, and probably front and rear lights.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Nothing hurts worse then getting hit by a motorist that \"didn't see you\" at an intersection.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20165/Chris Lee", "score": 18 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Bicycle Helmet Suitable clothing and shoes Cellphone", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Whatever else you \"need\" depends on your mechanical abilities and how independent you wish to be.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks", "score": 8 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I would go for a good floor pump, as I find it can be extremely important in preventing flats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One big problem I see is underinflated tires.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This can cause flats and other problems like rim damage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A good floor pump will make it not so much of a chore to ensure your tires are always properly topped up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you plan on leaving your bike anywhere except your garage, then a good bike lock is also quite essential.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have those things, then I would probably opt for replacing the stock tires.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Often the stock tires on bikes aren't great, and you would be able to get a pretty good set of tires for that amount of money.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Could easily save you from lots of frustration down the road.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "(I don`t have a definitive answer) .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would concentrate on what is most frustrating when it fails when riding a bike: Tire and wheels maintenance:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Tire levers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Good air pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Good tube patch kit.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Replacement tubes and tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A set of hex wrenches (check Imperial vs. Metric) After that, you can add whatever you feel will help you maintain your bike (specific wrenches, lubrication and grease,...)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Insipired by: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/home-wrench-building-a-cycling-tool-kit-from-scratch-43564/ http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bicycle-tools/16-essential-bike-tools", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13517/Max", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If you already have the usual tools and clothing you can always need more of the typical wear parts: Tires, tubes, chains, brake pads, chain oil, cables, pants …", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise I’d start with a proper stand pump, mini pump (for on the bike), tubes, chain tool, hex keys, lock, bottles, helmet … Clothing is of course essential but hard to guess the right size for ordering.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19529/Michael", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If it's a quality bike, it will attract professional bike (part) thieves – which are everywhere, like bacteria – and you should invest in a quality U-lock and a set of good anti-theft skewers for the wheels and seat post.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19862/TehMacDawg", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Depends on the type of tour you are doing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My 20 mile work commute requires panniers, cold and wet weather gear for the winter, lights for early morning and late evenings along with the common small items: 1.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Two spare tubes2.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Patch kit3.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Bike-specific multi-tool4.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Frame-fit pump5.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Emergency identification6.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Water bottle with water Regular ID, insurance info, cash, phone, clothing, keys, safety equipment, bike lock, shoes to fit my clipless pedals, and other items taken for granted are assumed to be on the list.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Ziplock bags for anything that can't get wet may also be added to the list.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I choose to use a GPS enabled cycling computer for courses and routing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "On my tour from Maine to Florida, I carried significantly more.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For closer to home touring, one can go a long way with little more than a patch kit and a pump.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20178/Brian Beaudoin", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Context:My bike shop includes free servicing as a standard with a new bike. I don't need such thing and live too far away. In lieu of waiver I can get €100 of stuff from the shop. Best bike problem ever: I need to decide what to get for free form the bike shop... Can anyone advise on what they would consider to be absolute essentials as a road/touring cyclist?", "title": "What are the absolute essentials a cyclist should own?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<road-bike><maintenance><touring><accessories><tools>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31514", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13892/larryone" }

[ [ "The absolute essentials a cyclist should own: seatbag, spare tube, mini-pump, tire patch kit, good floor pump, tire levers, replacement tubes and tires, chain tool, hex keys, helmet, bottles, lock, front and rear lights, brake pads, chain oil, clothing, ziplock bag, GPS and U-lock.", "A good floor pump and a repair kit with tools, lubricant and spares is a basic requirement for maintaining your bike. A helmet and front and rear lights are important for safety, while theft protection is essential if you plan to leave your bike outside the house at all. Stock tyres can be replaced if necessary. Appropriate clothing (including cycle shoes if applicable) is also important. Emergency identification and a cycle computer are also useful, but the list depends on your intended use of the bike." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "A good floor pump and a repair kit with tools, lubricant and spares is a basic requirement for maintaining your bike.", "A helmet and front and rear lights are important for safety, while theft protection is essential if you plan to leave your bike outside the house at all. Stock tyres can be replaced if necessary. Appropriate clothing (including cycle shoes if applicable) is also important.", "Emergency identification and a cycle computer are also useful, but the list depends on your intended use of the bike." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "OpenStreetMap", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "(a collaborative project to create a free editable map of the world ) has a very up to date and accurate cycle route layer available.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have used it before in Europe to plan large trips.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are also lots of online add-on services that allow you to use the cycling OpenStreetMap to plan cycling routes and run them either on smart phones or on GPS cycling computers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Garmin has even used the service to create the specialized maps on their Edge GPS cycling computers.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some example services include: BikeRouteToaster Garmin Connect ...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "more to come (or add them in the comments) As a side note, other proprietary services such as Google maps also have good (and constantly improving) cycling maps.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I however personally find OpenStreetMap is a little more up-to-date and accurate, likely due to the fact anyone can submit a fixes and new pathways.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/Rider_X", "score": 10 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Google Maps has a Bicycling overlay that can help you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It does have a few indication that states what type of road you have : Trails", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bicycle-friendly roads", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Dedicated lanes", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Dirt/unpaved trails", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So you might check those dedicated lanes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "An other option would be to use Strava's Global Heatmap where you can see where people are cycling the most.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "You can't really see what you want exactly (dedicated lanes), but coupled with Google's map, I find it's a good start to plan a ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11462/Bibz", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A lot of roads in Germany and Austria are bicycle only.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually these are less frequented roads, turned into bike tours.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then there is a very nice road from Lienz in Austria, to Italy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://bicyclegermany.com/ http://hikebikemap.org/ http://www.fahr-radwege.com/ (Austria)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "http://www.eurovelo.org/ http://www.suedtirolerland.it/de/rad-mountainbike/fahrradwege-in-suedtirol/", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/12749/olee22", "score": 4 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is one site that might help you with bike (and other) paths is GPSies (Tracks for Vagabonds) which has a loot of nice features such as: web & mobile site available in 24 languages, metric/imperial system discover routes (supposedly 3,5 mil tracks) (by foot, by wheel, with animals, by motorcycle, on water, in winter...), browse/search recommended routes near your location for different activities (hiking, walking, cycling, mountain biking...), option to create, upload or edit your tracks and it works with following maps: Open Street Maps, Open Cycle Map, Sigma Cycle, Sigma Topo, Hike Bike Map, Google Maps, ESRI)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "last but not least are mobile apps for Android and Iphone.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(I couldn't test them because I'm unfortunately on WP :D)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One thing I like is their route creator that seems easier to use than (for example drawing and exporting tracks) on Google Earth.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25208/False Identity", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Check out http://trailforks.com/ which is a pinkbike trail platform.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A huge database where people all around the world share their local trails, with short description, photos, videos and exact location and length through google maps.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I live in Greece and it has helped me find some nice trails close to me.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23995/Chris Tsiakoulas", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For the Netherlands you might use https://www.route.nl/routeplanner", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "There (the Netherlands) you can benefit from an extensive bicycle paths network that are marked by signposts thorough the country.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "One simply plans a route between two points and marks the knoppunten (knots) numbers along the way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then simply follow the signs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "At each knot you find a map with the surrounding, some other routes (with distances between the knots) should you plan to follow a different route.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "All routes are bicycle-friendly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Vast majority is a separate bicycle path.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sometimes it is a marked bicycle lane.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One might also try the LF-routes ( Landelijke Fietsroutes - country-wide bicycle routes) from https://www.hollandcyclingroutes.com/long-distance-cycle-routes", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34697/Mike", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Does anyone know of a website that has a map of bicycle paths in Europe that are bike/walkers only, i.e. no cars?", "title": "Website with bicycle only paths in Europe?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<travelling>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31942", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2495/Karlth" }

[ [ "OpenStreetMap: There are also lots of online add-on services that allow you to use the cycling OpenStreetMap to plan cycling routes and run them either on smart phones or on GPS cycling computers. As a side note, other proprietary services such as Google maps also have good (and constantly improving) cycling maps. A lot of roads in Germany and Austria are bicycle only. GPSies (Tracks for Vagabonds) which has a loot of nice features. For the Netherlands you might use https://www.route.nl/routeplanner. An other option would be to use Strava's Global Heatmap where you can see where people are cycling the most.", "OpenStreetMap, Google Maps and other sites have cycle-specific maps and are often constantly updated and improved. Some European countries have extensive cycling networks with some roads open to bicycles only. These can be explored with dedicated online or offline maps, and are often signposted. Strava's Global Heatmap shows common routes in your area, and other sites like GPSies allow you to create and edit routes or view routes recommended by others." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "OpenStreetMap, Google Maps and other sites have cycle-specific maps and are often constantly updated and improved.", "Some European countries have extensive cycling networks with some roads open to bicycles only. These can be explored with dedicated online or offline maps, and are often signposted.", "Strava's Global Heatmap shows common routes in your area, and other sites like GPSies allow you to create and edit routes or view routes recommended by others." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "As others have mentioned one reason is to make it easier to installed slime/sealant into a tube or tire.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Typically you'll take the valve off, and use an injector to put the slime into the tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For tubeless tire setups, removing the valve core allows a higher volume of air to quickly get into the tire when you are first blowing it onto the rim.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Some types of valve extenders used by people with deep profile rims thread into the valve core threads.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Another reason to have removable Presta valves is they tend to be somewhat fragile so being able to replace a busted valve vs. having to replace the whole tube could potentially save a little bit of money (or allot of money if we are talking about breaking the valve core on a $150 tubular tire.)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The valve cores should be consistent from maker to maker.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6007/Glenn Stevens", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I think the big benefit of a removable core is that it makes it possible to add \"self-patching slime\" to the tube.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "With a core in place the slime would likely foul the valve and make it inoperable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise, I think the removability is more an artifact of the manufacturing process – and as you've noted, not necessarily a feature.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19416/dlu", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Serviceable: Can get clogged with debris and can go bad Install Slime", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I pull the core and save it when I throw away flats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "On a new tube tighten it down before you install and if it does come loose", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use just a tiny drop of Loctite.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You can carry a patch kit, but if you break the central pin while working on the tube it is of no use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Procure a couple from wasted tubes and carry them in the instrument pack and you won't have to come back from deep wilderness on foot.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The accepted answer briefly mentions deep carbon wheels.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I will elaborate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "50-60mm deep wheel are common in many road races, and triathletes and time trialists will go as deep as they can, probably all the way up to 90mm front and a full disc wheel rear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I believe many valve stems for performance road tubes are around 48mm in total length.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This won't offer enough valve on even a 40mm deep wheel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tubes with longer stems are available, e.g. Vittoria makes a 60mm valve stem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, even this isn't enough for the deepest wheels, and manufacturers would have to maintain more SKUs (stock keeping units, i.e. different models) of their high end road tubes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Valve extenders are a solution.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Two versions exist : one where you just open the presta valve, screw the extender on, and leave it, and another where you remove the core, insert it into the extender, and then screw the extender on the original presta valve.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Having a valve extender can also simplify your spare parts logistics.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Many riders may train on one set of wheels, and race or do harder rides on deeper race wheels.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Those who do this would either need to carry a spare tube with a valve suited to their deepest wheel, or just carry a valve extender of suitable length.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38270/Weiwen Ng", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Once again, I spent some quality time debugging a slow leak and found out it was a loose valve core. I tightened it with pliers, but it raises the question, is there a situation where it is useful to be able to remove the valve core? Also, have replacement valve cores been available at some point, and do the cores have a standard thread or is it manufacturer-specific?", "title": "What are the benefits of removable presta valve cores?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<presta>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/33067", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10595/ojs" }

[ [ "For tubeless tire setups, removing the valve core allows a higher volume of air to quickly get into the tire when you are first blowing it onto the rim. One big benefit of a removable core is that it makes it possible to add \"self-patching slime\" to the tube. Another reason to have removable Presta valves is they tend to be somewhat fragile so being able to replace a busted valve vs. having to replace the whole tube could potentially save a little bit of money (or allot of money if we are talking about breaking the valve core on a $150 tubular tire.) ", "Valve cores can be removed when filling the tube with slime or extending the valve for deep profile rims. They can also be removed for cleaning or replacement if they are damaged. This design can also be due to the manufacturing process rather than for the benefit of the rider." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Valve cores can be removed when filling the tube with slime or extending the valve for deep profile rims. They can also be removed for cleaning.", "Presta valve cores can be fragile, so this allows easy replacement if they get bent.", "This can also be due to the manufacturing process rather than for the benefit of the rider." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I think there are two questions here: 1", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- Can you have a bike professionally assembled by a bike shop?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In my experience (having done this a couple of times) it will typically cost the price of their \"pro tune\" or equivalent - the service when they break the bike down and put it back together.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "$2-300 say.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bike shops can be a bit sniffy about this, but getting to know your local tech staff will help make things easier.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "2", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- Is this a good idea?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Depends why you're doing it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you've got a frame or components you want to put together - say you bought a particular rare steel frame that you want your gruppo from your other bike on...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then it can be a great option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's about buying a high-end bike for cheaper - it may be a good option but check where you're sourcing from.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's about buying a cheaper (say sub $500) bike for less than you can pay in an LBS - I'd say a crazy false economy.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Instead, buy a second hand bike on CL or similar and save $100 or so to get it checked out by your LBS.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Slightly aligned to the point above - if I'm a bike mech, being asked to work on a cool steel frame or a high-end bike from a brand I may never have worked on is pretty cool.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Being asked to spanner a cheap bike from Walmart is going to make me feel pretty crappy about myself and question why I work in the industry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The level of work I do is likely to be commensurate with how the work makes me feel...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13999/Leon Markham", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In my experience, bike shops don't make much money off of turning wrenches.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It then follows that they don't typically care for some bike that you chose to buy online instead of from their showroom, which is where most of their money is made.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you buy something that doesn't align well with a particular shop, i.e. an overly cheap bike and a shop that deals a lot with higher-end stuff, they might not want to associate themselves with such an inferior product.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Cheap shifters and derailleurs, for example, can be impossible to dial in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One can not expect even a seasoned mechanic to be responsible for cheap metals that bend under pressure as their eventual imperfect performance could then be associated with his work or his shop.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "As a second example, cheaper rims can be a nightmare to true; as is expecting them to remain so.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The time that it takes to work with a cheap bike is not worth the shop's time.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "All of this being said, however, just go into the bike shop and explain your situation to them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're ordering something that they think is worth their time, then expect to pay at least $100 to $125 for them to properly assemble it and tune it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They might even be able to show you something there in the shop that is comparable to what you're interested in!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8858/CRThess", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "My local bike shop has a posted price of $80 to assemble a bike as received in a box (presumably bought over the internet) and $200 to assemble a bike from a frame and set of components.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "One of my friends bought a frame and groupset (quite a nice one) and they were happy to do the work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You should talk to the specific shop you are thinking of and see what they say.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The same shop has free lifetime adjustments on any bike you buy from them, so you need to figure that into your calculation of the economics.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10998/Ross Millikan", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes many bicycle repair shops offer assembly service.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course they would also like a shot at your business for the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You will generally get more free service from a shop where you purchased the bike, so there is some value to that.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/21401/Derny", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I just called a couple of local shops about assembly, one was very straightforward and easy to talk with and gave a simple price.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "One was like these guys above, a lot of double talk nonsense.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm going with the straightforward.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Assembly is pretty simple.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The answer should be too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There are many good online bike sellers and the box", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "arrives needing assembly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I called a shop near me as i am in the same situation with public transport.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps you could call your local shops and ask if you could have it delivered to them for assembly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Best wishes fellow foot, bike and pub trans commuter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30793/user30793", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I live in Orlando, Florida, and I am stuck with no transportation besides public buses, taxis, etc. as my bike literally fell apart in pieces in the middle of a road. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I would need for it to be professionally assembled. My question is would most bike shops work something out where I could ship it directly to them for assembly, so that I do not have to walk with a bike box for a few miles.", "title": "Do Bike stores allow you to ship a bike to them to assemble?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shopping><new-bicycle-assembly>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/34202", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22451/Ashley Alexander" }

[ [ "Some bike shops are happy to assemble bikes bought online. However, bike shops make most of their money from selling bikes, not working on them, hence they are unlikely to be interested in putting together a bike that has been bought online, especially if it is a cheap one. If the bike shop usually sells higher end bikes, its mechanics may well not want to be associated with work on cheaper models. It is best to contact the shop in question, they may even have something better to offer you.", "Bike shops have different policies about setting up outside bikes, and may be reluctant to work on inferior quality bikes or support cheaper online purchases. However, some are happy to assemble outside bikes for a higher price than for their own. It is worth asking the shop itself, which might be able to offer a comparable bike that they can set up cheaper or for free." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Bike shops have different policies about setting up outside bikes, and may be reluctant to work on inferior quality bikes or support cheaper online purchases. However, some are happy to assemble outside bikes for a higher price than for their own.", "It is worth asking the shop itself, which might be able to offer a comparable bike that they can set up cheaper or for free." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Unethical, because you're imposing costs on the organisers anyway.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Apart from the obvious \"if you get hurt they're going to help you\", they almost always face costs per participant and often have a limit on numbers.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Violate those limits and the organisers will have problems.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You're also causing wear and tear on the track, equipment and marshals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can't pretend that away by saying \"other people do it too\"...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "yes, and they paid for the privilege.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You're stealing it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not really ethical IMO.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is another case where your exact marginal impact is low, but at some point one more increment like that will get the race cancelled or refused permission to do it again.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The other thing is that if you are involved in an incident and are deemed to be at fault, you will not be insured.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The race insurance won't cover you (obviously), but whatever insurance you have almost certainly has a an illegal activity exclusion.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They'd most likely leave it to you to show that what you were doing was lawful.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But since most races take place on temporarily closed areas, that would be hard.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They close the area specifically to people like you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For exactly that reason.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/Móż", "score": 39 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I’d say it’s totally", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "okay if the road is not closed for the event and still open for cars and other vehicles.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19529/Michael", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "If it's a race with competitors who are trying to win, then I would definitely say no.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Like time travel, just being there at the same place and time can cause unknown effects on future outcome.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you want to use the track, contact the race organizers and see if they want people to help out checking the track the morning or night before the race for unplanned obstacles or other problems with the route.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "See if they need referees (not sure if this is the correct term in cycling) to follow the riders to make sure everybody is following the track and not taking short cuts.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Do you have any first aid certifications?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maybe they need on-the-trail first-aid care for riders who get injured.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's a route without laps, they may even allow people to ride a safe distance (half hour or more) behind the actual competitors.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's a charity or other type of non-competitive road ride, and the roads are open to cars, then you technically have every right to be there, and although some may frown at it, there isn't really much of a reason not to go, provided you are a courteous rider and don't use any of the facilities furnished to riders.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I think that any kind of closed course, even on the road, and even for a non-competitive rides is probably off limits.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And \"closed course\" doesn't mean that the entire thing is behind a barbed wire fence.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It would be impractical for them to block off every entrance to a course.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A closed course is any course where they have made some effort to try and stop unregistered riders, vehicles, and pedestrians from being on the route.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes, that's highly unethical.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This isn't any different than banditing a marathon.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Race organizers go through quite a bit of trouble and expense to provide a safe racing environment, especially if the race goes over public roads.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "By jumping into a race you're exposing race organizers, participants and yourself for liability and in some situations stealing \"resources.\"", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23036/Velosurance", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I contemplated the topic, visited a local XC/Enduro* race, asked the guys that organise it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"Are riders without subscription and numbers hindering the race, they are not one or two but about 20%?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"No.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Why would they?\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My conclusion is that any cyclist without registration is no different than any other bystander .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Consequently, if the race organisers have taken strain to restrict outside personnel", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "**, then Mσᶎ's answer applies with full strength.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the other hand, if travel is allowed, cycling is no more immoral than walking on the race course.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However: taking food or water constitutes theft, just as if a random hiker helped himself (optional) as unnumbered riders are not in a hurry for anywhere, they must help any racer in need.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "as Criggie explains not subscribing for insurance and for the race does not help the race to be held the next year or the medical crews to be funded.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Those are supposed to be objective arguments, on the basis of which each individual can decide.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "* - 100m positive attitude gain, 1700m negative attitude gain, mix of loose gravel road and singletrack of moist sharp stones; hikers, children, dogs, automobiles everywhere", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "** - for example, I would consider a large warning sign a suitable restriction for hikers, or a police car a suitable restriction to automobiles", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Would you ride that exact route on another day, when there was no race on?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'd say stop being frugal and support cycling in your area.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I find it tedious to spend half a day riding the dangerous streets of the city to purchase a mountain insurance, then spend money on race subscription and in then arriving early as hell on the start line to get my number. Provided I do not take any water or food from the checkpoints and I do not cross the finish line, is there an ethical reason not to ride with the race?", "title": "Is it ethical to ride with races without being part of them?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<racing><etiquette>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/34820", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac" }

[ [ "Generally, it is considered unethical to ride with a race if you haven't registered as a competitor. Firstly, you have not contributed to the cost of the event. Second, you may cause an accident and not be covered by the race insurance. If you want to use the track and do not want to register for the race, contact the organizers and see if they need people to help out at the event. However, if it is an open road or charity event, you have the right to be there as does the public in general.", "Especially on a closed course, an unregistered rider is taking the services of the organisers without paying the set price. This may also increase participant numbers beyond the permitted number and may affect insurance coverage, and may affect the outcome of the race for paying participants. Taking food, water and resources from the organisers constitutes theft and makes the event less profitable and likely to be repeated. You should support local cycling events. Organisers are not able to stop you from cycling on and event with open roads, but if you are unable to pay then it would be best to stay out of the way or offer to help at the event in exchange for participation." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Especially on a closed course, an unregistered rider is taking the services of the organisers without paying the set price. This may also increase participant numbers beyond the permitted number and may affect insurance coverage, and may affect the outcome of the race for paying participants.", "Taking food, water and resources from the organisers constitutes theft and makes the event less profitable and likely to be repeated. You should support local cycling events.", "Organisers are not able to stop you from cycling on and event with open roads, but if you are unable to pay then it would be best to stay out of the way or offer to help at the event in exchange for participation." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "All the elite riders I have encountered just know .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I think its part of the attention to detail necessary at that level.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You almost never see them looking down to check (that would be showing a weakness and giving oponents an opportunity).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if you mean can the rider say which cog they are using at the front and rear?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "then the answer is that often we can't say.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually we know by memory which front cog we are using.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And as I change the rear gear, I know by the different feel of the ratio whether I'm near the top, the middle, or the bottom of the cluster.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I very rarely try to change gears past the last one.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The bike knows.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That's enough.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8273/andy256", "score": 27 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Cadence mostly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The answer to your question is in the title.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Experience.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Same way motocross riders know what gear they are in.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The speed of the engine vs how fast they are moving.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22906/user22906", "score": 21 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "One of my bikes has no indicators and I'm less familiar with it than my other bike which has indicators and more years especially at the top.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I don't find it to be a problem.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You don't need to know exactly which gear you're in, just enough to know (e.g)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that if you want to drop a gear you need to drop a chainring.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A combination of feel and a vague recollection of what I've done is normally enough for that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I consider myself decently experienced, having ridden for many years, and my answer is that I don't have to know.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The numbers aren't important to me; it's all in how it feels.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Whatever speed I'm going, if I want to go faster", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I'm pedaling without feeling like I'm doing any work, I need to shift into a higher gear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I feel like I'm expending too much energy (i.e. it's too hard to pedal), then I gear down.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There's not a \"right\" gear to be in; it's relative to my current speed and how much work I feel like doing, or, in some cases, how much torque I need.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22935/redOctober13", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For me noise is a good indicator of “bad” gears with cross chaining.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I also know from the speed when I have to change chainrings.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19529/Michael", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A lot of the time I don't…", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Most of my riding is on an older touring bike with downtube shifters or a tandem with mountain bike type (the two button/lever kind) shifters.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So I know generally what gear the bike is in by effort and", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "like Michael says detect cross-chaining by sound.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With the touring bike shifter position tells me a lot about what gear I'm in", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I can read it by feel.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "On the tandem I can tell the extremes by the shifter behavior (it either won't let you pull cable or won't release anymore).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I also have a pretty relaxed attitude towards cross-chaining.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I know it is \"bad\" and try to avoid it, but I also don't worry too much about occasionally picking the \"wrong\" gear combinations.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I usually notice them due to noise or feel and when I do I shift if I can.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I can't a put a bit of money into the bike parts jar when I get home.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19416/dlu", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "With todays 2- and 1-chainring cranksets, chain-crossing isn't a problem and with the cranksets where it may be a problem (which are rather rare in high-end groups)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "the sound and feel are good signs of it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "So you don't really need to know which gear you're in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And when you spend a lot of time on your bike you just start to recognise the gears by feel and are able to tell which one you're in...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "well, +/-1 let's say.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I switched from Shimano Deore (with displays) to Sram X9 (without displays)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "some 5 years ago, and never felt the need to look down and check the gears.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So they are not this important, just a matter of changing habbits.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14321/Slovakov", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Experienced riders pick the right chainring based on the terrain coming up.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Then all they need to know is to go up or down on the cassette as needed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If you've topped or bottomed-out then that section is over, time to pick a new chainring.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Use bar end shifters; you do not have to look at the paddles to feel the gear position with your hands.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The angle difference between index points is distinct enough, even when indexing ten gears, that you can just touch the paddle and know what gear you're in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22996/bipsychlo", "score": 0 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's all cadence related.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "No need to be a pro for that...", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8644/WesW", "score": 0 } } ]

{ "question": "Most mid to high level mountain groupsets (eg SLX and X7) have shifter options without any display as to what gear is currently active. How do riders avoid cross-chaining and other unpleasantnesses, especially when riding in the dark or on rough terrain (i.e. when they can't readily take a look at the rear cogs)?", "title": "How do experienced cyclists know which gear they are in without an optical display?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<mountain-bike><shifter>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/34847", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac" }

[ [ "Most experienced riders do not necessarily know which gear they are in as far as numbers are concerned. They can tell the right or wrong gear from the feel and also the noise. From the feel of the bike, they know they need to change up or down. ", "Experienced riders learn to know when to change gears based on cadence, torque and other factors and have an idea of the approximate rear gear, but do not need to know the exact gear they're using at the time. The problem of cross chaining is less serious with modern gears, and in most cases riders can simply choose their gear based on effort." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Experienced riders learn to know when to change gears based on cadence, torque and other factors and have an idea of the approximate rear gear, but do not need to know the exact gear they're using at the time.", "The problem of cross chaining is less serious with modern gears, and in most cases riders can simply choose their gear based on effort." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Take the lights and anything else thats likely to be stolen off your bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For things that can't be removed easily, you may want to use something like Pitlock security skewers (or security bolts) or glue in ball bearings or similar into the head of the bolts (which will make them hard to remove when you need to remove them, but a casual thief can't remove them easily).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, make sure you know how to properly lock up your bike (which has been discussed at length in other places on this SE).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 28 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In terms of accessories like lights, GPS, etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the only way to be safe is to remove them entirely.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Remember that if something is quick-releasable for you, it's also quick-releasable for thieves.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Bike lights will frequently get stolen even if they aren't easily removable, because they're valuable.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There is an assortment of \"anti-theft\" bike accessories available, but most of them just rely on obscure screws, and they tend to be inferior products as they must make other compromises in order to be harder to steal while also being priced competitively.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "For bike components you may also want to remove as many quick release levers as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've had a seat + seatpost stolen before, and know many people whose wheels have been stolen.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can lock your bike in such a way to prevent wheel theft, but it's impractical to lock things like seats, so you have to make it as difficult as possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/262/nhinkle", "score": 17 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Fortified Bike sells bike lights that are designed to be theft resistant.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "They're made of heavy aluminum and use security screws so most thieves won't have the proper tool to unscrew it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The also sell a security seatpost clamp to help keep thieves from stealing the light by stealing your seat.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I haven't used their newer rechargeable lights, but I've had their older Defender Stealth model on my bike for about 3 years now and haven't had it stolen despite keeping my bike locked up outside at work.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5459/Johnny", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've attached lights etc.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "with anti-tamper torx screws and normal screws in awkward places (like under the rear rack).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Both have some deterrent value over normal screws in easy-to-reach places, which in turn are better than clips that need no tools at all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Some modifications may be required to replace the thumbscrew with something more secure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I had half a front light stolen because the rest was well screwed on", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- they opened it as you would for changing the batteries.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most lights are designed to be easy to take off, which might as well mean hard to secure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For anything other than cheap rubbish lights you should reckon that they'll be stolen or destroyed in the attempt whatever you do.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You should probably make the same assumption even for cheap rubbish if you reply on them, or at least have a backup (in my case a cheap rear light on my pannier - which comes with me - and a headtorch on my helmet).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The only way to do this would be lights that are integrated into your frame so they can't be removed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Not a cheap option.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Instead, leave your lights and tools, etc in a bag that can be removed from the bike with one motion, or in a backpack, so you have them but only fit the lights to the bike when you need them.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't generally leave the helmet at the bike either...", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I've had one stomped to pieces while I was elsewhere", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "[With lights that attach via a quick release system,] clip the quick release thumb lever off with wire cutters, you can still remove them with a flat screwdriver.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's only good for stopping the opportunistic thief.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32960/Mike Babich", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I wrote a post listing out some locking lights and other alternatives to detachable lights on my website: Bike to Everything - Locking Lights .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Here is some of the info rewritten specifically to answer this question.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You have a few options to prevent theft of your bike lights: Locking lights that use tamper proof screws on them (example:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fortified lights mentioned in another answer.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Anti-theft lights that are extremely inconvenient to remove and use non-standard hex sizes (example: Bell Radian 650 anti-theft lights) Concealed Lights.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you attach your light on a seat stay or underneath your rear rack for example, it may be less obvious to a thief that there's a light there.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Get your own tamper proof screws and attach your (non-detachable)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "lights that way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(As Chris H mentioned) Bike saddles can sometimes come with integrated lights (easier to find for a cruiser style seat), and bike saddles can be locked down .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Helmet lights can come with you if you take your helmet in with you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "There are now helmets with integrated lights (example: Lumos), you can get a light that attaches to the helmet, or you could even get a normal headlight that you put on your helmet.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You can attach lights to your bag or pannier that you take with you, so you don't have to think about removing the lights.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I love using both my Fortified lights and the Bell Radian 650 lights, and", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "honestly I hope more companies start coming out with some better anti-theft lights so you can lock your bike with only a U-lock !", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20140/biketoeverything.com", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I was wondering what one could do to keep his bike attachments from being stolen. On Monday two lights were stolen off of my bike. I only had them for a day. It was the kind that has a rubber \"strap\" of sorts that goes on the handlebar. I only really care/want to know because they were fairly expensive...", "title": "Protecting bike attachments such as lights against theft", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<headlights><theft><battery>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35624", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23500/BuildNC" }

[ [ "All items that can be easily removed should be taken off the bike when it is left. Moreover, your bike should be properly locked up. Anti-theft lights are available as are locks for seats. For items that are difficult to remove, there are various anti-theft devices on the market, such as security skewers, however, some doubt is cast on their efficiency.", "Lights and anything easy to be removed should be taken with you or secured to the bike. Quick release seat clamps can be replaced with security clamps, and lights can be attached to the helmet or panniers and taken with you. Theft-resistant bike lights and other systems may not be very effective or high quality, but are available. Lights integrated into the frame are expensive, but helmets and saddles have cheaper integrated lights. As a quick way to slow thieves down, cut off any quick release levers so they can only be removed with tools." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Lights and anything easy to be removed should be taken with you or secured to the bike. Quick release seat clamps can be replaced with security clamps, and lights can be attached to the helmet or panniers and taken with you.", "Theft-resistant bike lights and other systems may not be very effective or high quality, but are available. Lights integrated into the frame are expensive, but helmets and saddles have cheaper integrated lights. As a quick way to slow thieves down, cut off any quick release levers so they can only be removed with tools." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "It is (strongly) not advisable to put a rack on carbon.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You could probably put a lock mount on the handlebar stem (I do).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could get an over-sized seat bag.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Possibly a handlebar bag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Bottle cage bag", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but they don't have much capacity.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They are good for like wallet, cell phone, and keys.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Don't like to do product recommendations but Revelatedesigns", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "have a lot of bags.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not easy to find", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but there are carbon forks with rack eyelets .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But I would not do that to that bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Not a typical commuter bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7785/paparazzo", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I suggest looking at frame bags.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They don't carry much, but they have more capacity than the more sensible under-seat bags.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can get various sizes (up to 'fill the triangle'), and could even do both a frame bag and a seat bag.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There's a cycle tourist with a carbon bike a bit heavier than yours here so it can be done.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Most of the carbon bike people tape their frames where the bag will rub to prevent the bag slowly grinding through the frame, but that seems to be the main concern.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/Móż", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have a rack on Carbon Fiber Trek 5000 series frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's been there for around 7 years.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I did it by drilling and tapping holes into the rear dropouts, which are aluminum.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So none of the weight is on the frame at all — it's taken by the wheel directly.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A single stay at the top anchors the rack to the brake bolt.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Now, I would not think of using the bike for a loaded tour.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But for holding my briefcase on for a trip to the office: no problem at all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course, many newer carbon frames don't have a flat place on the dropout where you could do this.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A better alternative might be a racks that mounts to the axle, attached by the QR skewer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30664/Squire Black", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes, you can put a rack on a CF frame, given the right rack.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Namely, Tailfin makes racks explicitly designed to work with CF frames without rack eyelets, like \"racing\" road bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/9215/Klaster_1", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could get a beam rack that attaches to a seat post.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Only issue is that you'll be limited by weight you can carry.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/carriers-racks/tubus-adapter-set-for-quick-release-axle-mounting/ https://www.tredz.co.uk/.M-Part-Seat-Clamp-Mount_34111.htm?sku=79197&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykEEpZRlvyZUEBcTRVOSNHR2I2tft31vzRVSBLG6GW9dD0YVcvufXaQaAlmbEALw_wcB", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then stress is transferred off the brittle frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Toured like this on a carbon frame.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Just be prepared for fun and games when changing an inner tube.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/52058/Kishan Bhatt", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "I got a carbon-framed Kestrel Talon Road Bike recently but I also want to use it for commuting to and from work and I want a place to put my lock and other stuff on the bike. Is it possible to have a rack on this kinda bike.", "title": "Can I put a rack on a carbon road bike?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<road-bike><carbon><rack>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35807", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23629/nolawi" }

[ [ "Although some people disagree, most cyclists think it is OK to put a rack on a carbon bike. In fact, Tailfin makes racks explicitly designed for carbon frames. Frame bags and oversized seat bags would be an alternative to a rack.", "This is generally not recommended, although options (e.g. mounted to the seat post) are available. A rack mounted to the handlebars or a frame bag are safer options, although the frame should be protected from friction from straps." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "This is generally not recommended, although options (e.g. mounted to the seat post) are available.", "A rack mounted to the handlebars or a frame bag are safer options, although the frame should be protected from friction from straps." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Yes - numbness denotes a problem with bike fit or a thermal problem.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Here's my personal experience.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Fingers - riding a MTB with \"ergonomic\" grips, the sort with a wee wing that rests under your palm.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With these I get numb fourth and fifth fingers on both hands.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It takes a three hour ride to start, and if I go 4+ hours then the numbness can last into the evening.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Feet/toes - I have road shoes that are perhaps too small.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If I wear thick socks by mistake, I can lose feeling in toes, again after a long ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Answer there is better-fitting shoes, but the interim fix is thin socks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Neck - More sore than numb, but a generic helmet often has a brim or visor.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is fine for a MTB but makes you lift your face more on a road bike, leading to a sore neck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Unclipping the visor is a cheap and easy alievement.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Backside - an upright posture puts more weight on your saddle, via your bum.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A good saddle holds the sit-bones, and not the softer tissues.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A poor saddle presses the wrong things and makes a ride uncomfortable, and numb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The fix is a saddle replacement, or temporarily spend more time on your feet/pedals and be less efficient but less sore.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "`nads - this one is related to repeated friction inducing chafing more than numbness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A ride under 20 km doesn't need special clothes generally.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Longer rides you'll appreciate padded pants.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "A bad fit will leave somewhere scraping back and forth every pedal revolution.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Personal Story -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A flat singletrack MTB course with minor ups and downs, made my padded pants drop a little so the pad's seam was rubbing on the top of the thigh.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I wore a blister that popped.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Since it was around the corner I couldn't see how bad it was, but the hot shower made it quite obvious.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The fix?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "tighter pants and pull them up.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "No underwear underneath, and last resort is to apply some kind of friction-reducing cream.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cold - if you're cold you're going to go numb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Earlobes, nose, cheeks, fingers/toes, and limbs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I also notice a cold stomach when I stop.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is exacerbated by the wet.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personal story", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "- I once rode through a deep unexpected puddle of snow-melt and got wet up to mid-calf.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My shoes were light \"hard drive bag\" open-weave.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And then I had to ride ~20km home through a cold easterly wind.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When I got off the bike, I could not feel one foot at all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The numb sensation did not go away with a hot shower - it took a full 24 hours to vanish completely.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Thermal generally - be prepared to pull up or roll down your sleeves, unzip your top while riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have an uphill ahead, drink 2 minutes before the start and open all the vents.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you have a fast downhill coming, button things so you don't get chilled on the way down while coasting.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Rain - if its predicted to rain, consider not riding, or take the wet-weather bike with mudguards/fenders and treadded tyres instead of the slick roadbike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Take", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "/Wear a waterproof outer layer and put it on if it does start to drizzle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've never been a runner so I can't really comment on similarities, but certainly it is possible to experience numbness while riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I have poor circulation anyway, and for me it usually happens on long rides in low temperatures.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Warm weather rides are fine.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also note that there are various medical conditions (e.g. diabetes) which can give rise to poor circulation, so someone who for example is diabetic may be predisposed to numbness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4808/PeteH", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Not generally.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Cyclists have points of contact - hands, feet, butt - where prolonged pressure is created.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Pressure can cut off communication between nerves and the brain, making a body part or area feel numb.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Something could happen with other areas, like the neck for example, if blood flow is impinged and the nerves don't receive oxygen.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is why wiggling things helps, keeps blood flowing and nerves firing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19730/jqning", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The only numbness I have ever experienced on long rides (6+ hours) was due to poor fit or equipment failure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The endurance cyclists I known have never described anything \"going numb\" as a regular occurrence with distance riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I can tell you that at the end of a very long ride (12+ hours)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I am generally starting to get sore.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have not great knees, and the tendons and ligaments in them tend to become inflamed after more than 12 hours or so of riding.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "They hurt, I wish more than anything that they went numb.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "There tends to be an odd phenomenon where after many hours on a bike doing anything except sitting or laying down", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I find horrible.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Walking and or moving is just uncomfortable, it's preferable to ride more, or not move at all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13710/Deleted User", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Coming from the perspective of a cyclist commuter who also does cycle touring, but sometimes doesn't cycle for months: Parts of your body can go numb, yes, but it's less about how fit you are, and more about how much practise you have had.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "For example if you haven't cycled regularly then an hour or two in the saddle can leave you with a numb feeling in your backside where it rests on the saddle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "But if you keep doing regular rides then this will decrease and disappear.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Numbness can also occur in the hands and arms, but tends to be over longer periods of time (more than 2 hours).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As you were asking people who don't bicycle, their lack of practise will result in numb backsides if they don't cycle regularly.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "A big factor is also the equipment you use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For example buy a saddle with a groove down the centre which will prevent your soft parts from becoming numb, buy handlebar grips with flat pads at the end to rest your hands on, because the best place to place pressure on your palm is the outside edge (see Tip#4 http://www.builtlean.com/2011/02/23/how-to-proper-push-up-form/ ).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In my experience having a saddle with a groove and handlebar grips with flat pads makes a huge difference on long rides.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Example saddles: google bike saddle with groove Example handlebar grips: http://www.downtheroad.org/Equipment/Bike_Parts/Bike_handlebars.htm", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23881/martagnan", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "When talking to people who don't bicycle themselves, I've noticed that every time I mention bicycling long distances, people seem to think that your body goes numb, like it does when you run long distances. Does it? Is it in any way related to how fit the individual is?", "title": "Do riders bodies go numb after hours of riding?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<long-distance><distance-riding>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/36143", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14636/Hellreaver" }

[ [ "Cyclists generally concur that numbness results from bike fit problems, circulation issues, cold weather or being unused to spending long periods of time in the saddle. In addition, medical conditions, such as diabetes, may cause riders to feel numb. Most obviously a poor saddle will make your butt numb. A saddle with a groove and handlebar grips with flat pads makes a huge difference on long rides. Suitable clothing for the cold weather and rain will stop numbness.", "Numbness often indicates pressure cutting off blood flow, which can be solved with a better fitting saddle and other bike parts, more padding and properly fitting clothing and shoes. Low circulation can also be caused by medical conditions including diabetes. Low temperatures can also cause or exacerbate numbness, which can be addressed with suitable clothing or limiting riding to warmer temperatures. Riders may experience numbness if they are not used to cycling regularly, but this will improve with practise." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Numbness often indicates pressure cutting off blood flow, which can be solved with a better fitting saddle and other bike parts, more padding and properly fitting clothing and shoes. Low circulation can also be caused by medical conditions including diabetes. ", "Low temperatures can also cause or exacerbate numbness, which can be addressed with suitable clothing or limiting riding to warmer temperatures.", "Riders may experience numbness if they are not used to cycling regularly, but this will improve with practise." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "You want to remove the wheels, seat post (you may be able to get away with setting this all the way at the bottom or doing nothing depending on how you're storing it), handlebars and pedals.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you can go to your local bike shop and get a (cardboard) box for shipping bikes, the bike should pack in nicely for storage.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This video shows you the steps in a nice way visually.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You're not shipping it, so you don't need as much bubble wrap and straps and foam, but bubble wrap is nice.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The tools you'll need are likely a set of metric hex keys (mostly 5 mm, possibly 4-8 mm) and a thin adjustable wrench (maybe a pedal wrench too).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "To remove the wheels, you likely have quick release wheels, so just pop the lever and unwind it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Undo the brake's quick release and", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the wheel will come out.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Be careful not to let the derailleur get impacted as that can make it come out of adjustment (e.g. don't drop the bike when you have the wheels removed).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The seat post will be either a hex key or quick release.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If its a hex key, try the appropriate size hex key (4-8 mm).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If its a quick release, pop the lever and unwind it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you're not using a bike box, I'd stuff the seatpost with a bit of newspaper or something in case critters make a home there.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The seatpost is also likely to be greased, so wipe it clean.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The handlebars should be removed and put to the side of the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I wouldn't disconnect any cables.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(from http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/moots-rsl-road-bike-review-stem02.jpg ) Simply remove the bolts on the front of the stem (the four bolts on the front of the red piece, in this picture), put the handlebars to the side of the bike and re- attach the red piece (so you don't lose it).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may want to tape them to the bike to prevent them from moving.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For the pedals, you'll either want a thin adjustable wrench which can adjust to about 15 mm or a pedal wrench of the appropriate size (a combo 15 mm + 9/16\" will be fine).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Note the left hand side pedal (when you're riding the bike) is counter threaded -- that is, it tightens counter clockwise, rather than clockwise.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The right hand side pedal tightens clockwise.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Remove the pedals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wipe the pedal threads and crankset eye clean.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This should all fit nicely into a bike box which would be ideal for storage.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Gloves may be nice for preventing your hand from getting messy.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "To re assemble the bike, do this in reverse, making sure to grease your bolts + pedals + seatpost appropriately.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You will want: hex/allen key set (check standard vs. metric)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "pedal", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "wrench ratchet set or box wrenches (crescent wrench as last alternative) gardening gloves to keep your hands clean", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Ensure that you do not strip the fasteners as metric/standard can be a very close fit sometimes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Save some old t-shirts or towels to wrap around the drive-train to keep it from dirtying your space.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When taking off your left pedal, ensure the chain is on the largest chain-ring to save your knuckles in case your wrench slips while loosening the pedal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24199/radiocontrolled", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Set of Allen (hex) key:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "usually 4,5 and 6 mm would do the job.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can use these Allen key for disassembling handlebar, stem, seatpost, and most pedals Adjustable wrench or (usually) 15 mm wrench: (check if needed) in order to remove the pedal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You could usually remove the pedal with 8 mm Allen key (sometimes could be 5 mm, 6 mm, or 10 mm).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Check if there is a hexagonal recess in the pedal axle (crank side), and better, check the size so that you could buy a correct Allen key.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The size would be the distance between two opposite (parallel) flat sides of the hexagonal recess.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If it is too much trouble, just buy a set of Allen key from 3-12 mm.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It won't cost much.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You could remove the wheel simply by hand (check if the wheel is clamped by skewer).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14414/Nhân Lê", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I take a single multitool when I travel to disassemble/reassemble my bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I have an older model crank brothers tool that they don't make anymore, but something similar is available here .", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I run pedals that can be taken on and off with a 8mm hex, so I don't need a pedal wrench.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Without a complete breakdown of your bike and all it's parts, one would be hard pressed to tell you definitively what you need.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, a good multitool and possibly a pedal wrench (depending on your pedals) may be all you need.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13710/Deleted User", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Outside the box possibilities.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Is there something that stops you riding your bike in the winter?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Yes winter is colder and wetter, and depending on your location there may be snow.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Perhaps a snow bike would be more year-round....", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that's a rigid MTB with studded tyres for winter and commuter tyres for summer.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Second option is to look at hanging your summer bike without disassembling.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Wash and dry it, and hang it up high out of the way.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "When summer (or a warm snap) comes you lower the bike, lube it, and ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Final option is to ride/ship your bike home and leave it there for winter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You want as little stuff as possible in a dormitory.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I have a bike that I would like to take apart to store for the winter. I live in a college dorm and don't have much space. What are the basic tools that I would need to take it apart? I think taking apart the wheels, pedals, and handlebar will be enough. Ex: Screwdriver, wrench The bike is a Trek 7.2FX", "title": "List of tools to take apart a bike to minimise space for storage", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<repair><tools><hybrid-bike><storage>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/36613", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24219/Witney Seal" }

[ [ "To disassemble a bike, the tools you'll need are likely to be a set of metric hex keys (mostly 5 mm, possibly 4-8 mm), a thin adjustable wrench (maybe a pedal wrench too), a set of wrenches, gardening gloves to protect your hands. Alternatively, you could try to do the entire job with a multitool.", "It is impossible to say for sure without knowing the bike, but the wheels can probably be opened with a wrench or quick release levers, the seat post with a hex key or QR lever and the pedals with a pedal wrench, hex key or box wrench. Remember that the pedal on the left hand side is cross threaded, and wear gloves to protect your hands. Many modern bikes may only need a multitool and possibly a pedal wrench, but older bikes in particular may require more tools." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is impossible to say for sure without knowing the bike, but the wheels can probably be opened with a wrench or quick release levers, the seat post with a hex key or QR lever and the pedals with a pedal wrench, hex key or box wrench. Remember that the pedal on the left hand side is cross threaded, and wear gloves to protect your hands.", "Many modern bikes may only need a multitool and possibly a pedal wrench, but older bikes in particular may require more tools." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "I have a 1990 steel racing tandem, and sadly it gets more miles solo than with a stoker.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The main differences between tandems and solo bikes apply when riding a tandem on your own (rear wheel cuts corners more, you can't bunny hop) but points to note:", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Cars may not see the rear of your bike, and may not anticipate the extra space required when pulling up or allowing room to turn.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Steering is a bit odd - it may be unique to mine, but if the solocaptain doesn't commit to a corner with enough lean, the bike tries to stand up straight and go straight.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Braking - its still possible to raise the back wheel clear off the ground when doing an aggressive brake with just a captain.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And the stoker's bars may get in the way of your backside if you lean backwards.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Drag brake is less effective with no stoker.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So big descents you have to ride more like a solo bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may get heckled with \"Your passenger fell off!\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so have a witty retort like \"Bugger -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "so that's why she stopped nagging!\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "or \"Damn I thought we were going slower than normal!\"", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Speed is generally not an issue - I've topped 40 km/h solo on my tandem, and the previous owner exceeded 70 km/h on it on a race, with two riders.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 45 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Doesn't seem like too big a deal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It should be similar to having someone on the back who's not pedaling, only lighter and faster.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14375/BSO rider", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I have a tandem", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "and I have ridden it solo.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's not hard from a handling point of view, and at least with mine it's easier than riding tandem – it's just riding a bike with an exceptionally long rear end.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Sure, more friction and a lot more weight, but overall something any cyclist with a tiny amount of experience can handle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4601/chichak", "score": 12 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Riding a tandem solo isn't a big deal.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's just a big long heavy bike; as others have said easier than riding a tandem with a stoker if they're not putting much power in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Apart from the \"funny\" comments you get, the only actual issue I've noticed is that you don't get so much grip on the back wheel without the weight over it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I tried standing on the pedals going up a hill and found the wheel would spin.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13824/Chris Emerson", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It will certainly be more difficult than riding a standard bicycle.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Although I don't feel like it would be impossible by any means.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The factors to consider are: Weight -", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "the Tandem weighs a lot more than a standard bicycle Wind - larger surface area means more effect from crosswinds Length -", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This will play very little with the transport as far as riding it to a friends house, other than turning, but plays a major factor in future transport by car or bus Tandems have a pilot, and a stoker, the rear rider being the stoker, and all steering is done by the pilot or front riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Therefor the stoker is only there to help out with pedaling and enjoy the ride.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "So yes it will be more difficult but I wouldn't rule it entirely impossible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "You will look lonely however ;)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24618/Nate W", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's usually easier than with a partner.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've been on one home-welded tandem where the front and back pedal cogs had different number of teeth and thus were not synchronized.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "That posed a problem for leaning into curves since the reflex of putting the inner pedal up did not match with the other pedal pair.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's astonishing how much of a nuisance this can end up being (and when going solo, you had no warning).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I don't think that this happens with a stock tandem however.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25032/user25032", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "About 4 miles away from me, there is a bike hire shop that has tandems. I'm trying to work out the logistics of getting the tandem to my house to pick up the other rider. I'm an experienced cyclist, but have never ridden a tandem before. It's not convenient for both of us to go to the shop. Is riding a tandem particularly difficult for one person? I suppose I'll get the bus there...", "title": "Is it difficult for one person to ride a tandem bike?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tandems>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/37639", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19321/Ne Mo" }

[ [ "Many cyclists appear to be of the opinion that, contrary to what you would believe, riding a tandem alone is often easier than riding with a partner. Things to look out for, however, include a heavier bike, a longer bike so needs to be taken into consideration when cornering and back wheel coming off the ground in an emergency stop, ", "It is certainly possible, but the longer rear and heavier weight will make it more difficult to ride and handle than a solo bike. Cars may not expect the extra length at the back, and the lack of a rear rider will affect traction and braking on the rear wheel. Normally the captain controls the steering and braking anyway, so handling may be easier than with a partner and the difficulty will depend on whether the partner is normally pulling their weight." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "It is certainly possible, but the longer rear and heavier weight will make it more difficult to ride and handle than a solo bike. Cars may not expect the extra length at the back, and the lack of a rear rider will affect traction and braking on the rear wheel.", "Normally the captain controls the steering and braking anyway, so handling may be easier than with a partner and the difficulty will depend on whether the partner is normally pulling their weight." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "When shopping for BSO bikes, people are just looking for a recreational ride that is a once in while, which leads them to focus on the sticker price.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Looking at a mountain bike they then get to thinking \"Hey, I can ride this around town.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can take it off roading if I wanted too.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\", so more bang for their buck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They also tend to look at the other components of the bike, hard narrow saddles just look uncomfortable, drop bars make one think they need to lay down to ride, thin narrow tires surely can't be a as comfortable as fat tires, and \"why is there no tread pattern on this tire, it is just for nice weather racing\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6782/BPugh", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Many BSO's are styled like mountain bikes, probably because the mountain bike features tend to be appealing to people who don't know a lot about bicycles.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Consumers buy these bicycles even though they will never use them on anything resembling a mountain trail.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A thick frame, thick, knobby tires, and suspension make a bicycle look rugged.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The appearance of ruggedness is cheaply achieved with inferior components that don't last, are poorly serviceable and heavy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is because the mere appearance of anything is cheaply achieved with a prop which looks like the real thing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If consumers believed that road bike features comprise the best prototype for an all-purpose bicycle, then BSO's would be road-bike-shaped objects.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Even the very mass of a bicycle could be associated with ruggedness.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Consider that Beats by Dre headphones were found to contain metal weights that serve no purpose other than to make the product feel more massive.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is because the consumer who knows nothing about audio or electronics thinks that a pair of cans that weighs more must be better.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(Though there is a point there: better loudspeakers tend to have more massive magnets, which make them more sensitive.)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "(With regard to tires, there seems to be a widespread belief that the mountain bike tires will grip all kinds of surfaces better, including asphalt: in other words, that they are safer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This is quite unfortunate.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Consumers should be educated, for the sake of their own safety, that smooth tires provide the best grip on a wet road, in addition to offering a smoother, quieter ride with less rolling resistance).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Someone shopping for a road bike is different from the crowd, and probably more knowledgeable than the average consumer.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Possibly much more knowledgeable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "They won't be duped by low-quality components.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5088/Kaz", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "It's much easier to make a chunky looking frame cheaply than to make thin tubing cheaply.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The heavier everything is supposed to be the less obvious", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "it is that the BSO is not what it looks like.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One key give-away is that the mountain bike is always marked \"not suitable for off road use\".", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Road bikes also have to use more expensive components, specifically brifters (combining brake and shifter units in a single mechanism) where mountain bikes can use the separate brake and shifter mechanisms, even though they are often combined into one assemble to reduce the number of steps to put the bike together.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "The same difficulty occurs when building cheap but effective caliper brakes, although the BSO solution there is IME to fit cheap and ineffective brakes (the shop I worked in spent a disappointing amount of time trying to find an affordable fixed-gear bike that wasn't a BSO).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 2 ] ] }, { "text": "What I has seen a lot of is more expensive BSOs that look like road bikes or fixies, but despite paying two-ten times what a BSO normally costs, they are still not usable bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Most were steel framed, and often used Chinese \"4130 CroMo\" tubing (which if you see it unpainted is the wrong colour, and is both weaker than and fatigues faster than proper 4130).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In Australia a BSO can be had for under $50 if you shop around, and normally run up to about $200-$300.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But during the fixie fad we saw BSO-grade fixies costing up to $600 that we couldn't service for all the usual BSO reasons.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "One was \"fixed\" by rivets through the drive cog into the hub, for example... and it was brought into the shop because the rivets were loose.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/Móż", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "A lot of people think that narrow tyres are dangerous for anyone other than experts, and that the narrower the tyre, the more likely they are to fall off.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They also don't appreciate that there can be disadvantages in having suspension.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25476/BenTaylor", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In addition to the other answers, the BSO appeals because it is not like the bikes in the purchaser's history.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Many BSOs forgo the traditional diamond frame in favour of big chunky monotube designs.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These bikes look nothing like the 70s/80s ten-speed, or the Raleigh 20 style, or the grifters and BMXs of my youth.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So when the parents want something \"better\" for their offspring, the different look appeals.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In complete opposition to the above statements, we also have the retro beach cruiser or coffee cruiser bikes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These are a little above a cheap BSO, and have a sit-up-and-beg posture combined with sweeping handlebars and relatively few gears.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The pricing is about double what a cheap BSO costs, but the appeal here is the nostalgia and a", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "\"this is what older people ride\" mentality.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This could well be a regional variation.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "I tend to see that most BSOs are \"fast hybrid\" commuter style bikes.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] }, { "text": "Straight handlebars, soft saddle, wide road tyres and road suitable gearing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The mountain bikes that were so cool in my youth (1990s) have largely faded out and road bikes with drop handlebars that my father remembers dominating in his youth are coming back in.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 2 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25475/Separatrix", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "All department store bikes, that I have witnessed, are mountain bikes. Many of them are even full suspension and some feature dual-crown forks. Why the lack of BSO (Bicycle Shaped Object) road bikes?", "title": "Why are most BSOs mountain bikes?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<shopping><bso>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/38176", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3927/Vorac" }

[ [ "Many BSO's are styled like mountain bikes, probably because the mountain bike features tend to be appealing to people who don't know a lot about bicycles. They also tend to look at the other components of the bike, hard narrow saddles just look uncomfortable, drop bars make one think they need to lay down to ride, thin narrow tires surely can't be a as comfortable as fat tires, and \"why is there no tread pattern on this tire, it is just for nice weather racing\". Consumers should be educated, for the sake of their own safety, that smooth tires provide the best grip on a wet road, in addition to offering a smoother, quieter ride with less rolling resistance). Moreover, the features of a mountain bike are easier to reproduce cheaply, however, most of these bikes are not suitable for off-road use.", "People shopping for BSOs re often unable to evaluate quality, and are more likely to select a bike that looks rugged and suitable for use on and off road. Road bikes can look overly fragile and complex, discouraging casual buyers. It is also cheaper to produce heavy and bulky components that look strong, even if they are poor quality and liable to break or rust. The hard saddle and thin, smooth wheels of a road bike look uncomfortable and more dangerous than thick knobbly tyres, even though road tyres provide more grip on wet roads. There is some regional variation, as the predominant type depends on market demand as well as ease of producing cheap parts." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "People shopping for BSOs re often unable to evaluate quality, and are more likely to select a bike that looks rugged and suitable for use on and off road. Road bikes can look overly fragile and complex, discouraging casual buyers. It is also cheaper to produce heavy and bulky components that look strong, even if they are poor quality and liable to break or rust. ", "The hard saddle and thin, smooth wheels of a road bike look uncomfortable and more dangerous than thick knobbly tyres, even though road tyres provide more grip on wet roads.", "There is some regional variation, as the predominant type depends on market demand as well as ease of producing cheap parts." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "As a heavy rider personally, I don't have many issues with flats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "A normal tire on the high/maximum pressure works fine to avoid pinch flats.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The key is to check tire pressure every time you get on the bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Even a day will allow a tire to soften 10 psi, and that will allow flats to occur.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Road hazard flats are not avoidable except by avoiding the hazard in the first place.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": ":)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Edit: to be clear, my answer is that it is most likely that your existing tires are not fully inflated, rather than that a different tire is needed.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "We don't do product rec here, but some general advice: You want to find the biggest tires you can fit into the bike, and run them at high pressure.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "The pressure written on the tire sidewall is useless (the maximum pressure depends on the rim and the tire), but in all likelihood you will be close to or exceeding it on many tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The particular model of tire won't really make a difference if you're pinch flatting them --", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "that is a symptom of too low pressure.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, riding on a flat tire is bad -- you can damage the rim and wheel that way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If the biggest tire you can put in at the highest pressure you can run safely doesn't work out for you, consider switching to a rigid mountain bike, where you can easily get 2+ inch tires in, which will easily take 300 lbs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Note that running at a high pressure leaves you vulnerable to other things like road hazards damaging the wheel.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You want the lowest pressure such that the rolling resistance is negligible, you avoid pinch flats, the tire absorbs some of the nature of the surface and keeps you in control of riding (i.e. no bouncing).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For a 300+ lb rider, this will be a pretty high pressure on many tires.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, remember tires are supposed to deflect a bit (visibly when you're on the bike), but not too much.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If they don't deflect, they're overinflated.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Do a web search for tandem tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "A tandem bike carries two people, so typical loads are even bigger than you.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Also, definitely use a pressure gauge.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You may think you can tell by feel, but I ride every day and can't tell the difference between 80 and 100 psi.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25962/PQSteve", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This is close to my goto answer for tyre issues.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tyres designed for touring use are meant for higher loads and inflation pressures.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I run marathon plus on my commuter hybrid.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "They make a 26x2.0 version which is rated to a load of 260lb per tyre and 70psi inflation (which you could probably exceed a little).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It's possble that won't fit your rim (see Sheldon Brown ) or your frame/mudguards (flip the bike over and pad the tyre out to test it).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But you could go a step thinner.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As you've noted, your weight isn't split equally between the tyres - the back wheel carries more load.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You could try converting your tyres to a tubeless system.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I run much lower pressures on my tubeless mountain bike than I used to - they are super resistant to pinch flats.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Every now and then I can feel the rear wheel pinching in a way that would previously have caused an instant flat but to date no flats (touch wood!).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I find (anecdotal) that the tubeless tyres seem to lose pressure a little faster than normal inner tubes.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Combine that with regular pressure checks and you should be better off.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/396/Byron Ross", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Schwalbe Big Ben or Big Apple tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Maxxis Hookworms.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I'm 450lbs and ride Maxxis Hookworms.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which are 26X2.5 tire.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I always ride at maximum PSI.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "ButThey might not fit in your forks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I had to buy new forks for the tire to fit.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Another good beefy tire the Schwalbe Big Ben tires.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Rated for riders 350lb.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Which would most likely fit your bike with no alterations.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38692/Michael Marquina", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "I ride a hybrid on 26\" rims currently fitted with hybrid tires. As I am 300lbs+ the rear tire runs permanently deformed/flat and the rims ride over the rubber causing tire pinch. Can anyone recommend the tyre tube combination that I should try to obtain that will stop this happening?", "title": "Heavy Rider (300lb+) - Please recommend a 26\" tyre to avoid tyre pinch", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<tire><innertube><tire-pressure><heavy><clydesdale>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/38801", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25954/Matt TC" }

[ [ "A normal tire on the high/maximum pressure should work fine for the heavier rider to avoid pinch flats. The key is to check tire pressure every time you get on the bike. The existing tire may not be fully inflated so this should be checked out before changing tires. Switching to mountain bike tires or tandem tires is anothe option for the heavier rider.", "Check your pressure to ensure that the tyre is fully inflated. Some deflection is normal, but it should not be soft enough to pinch or hard enough to damage the rim. Wider tyres would be helpful, and mountain bike, touring and tandem tyres are designed to take greater loads." ] ]

{ "rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [ true ], "cluster_sents_not_matched": [ [] ] }

[ 5 ]

[ [ "Check your pressure to ensure that the tyre is fully inflated. Some deflection is normal, but it should not be soft enough to pinch or hard enough to damage the rim.", "Wider tyres would be helpful, and mountain bike, touring and tandem tyres are designed to take greater loads." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Whether it's rude is a matter of local custom.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Whether you're offended by it depends on your flexibility and sensitivity", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Often, we cyclists can become a little over sensitive, after having to defend ourselves from car doors, pedestrians, cars, trucks, laws that don't take us into account, police who have a ticket quota, and even other cyclists.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Relax.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The person who left it there is just trying to save themselves the trouble of carrying it every day.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "And yes, you can still park your bike there.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Of course they may think you're rude then, so I'd only park there if it was the last position available.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8273/andy256", "score": 52 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'd pick a different spot in the rack if possible.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "But if I was in a hurry or there wasn't another suitable place I'd use it (e.g. my bike doesn't fit on the bottom of the double stacker at the station; some places have decent racks and others that don't allow proper locking for all day use).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would try to make sure it's easy to get the lock off, perhaps by sliding it to the end before parking.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Blocking out a space is properly selfish and possible in some racks (e.g. a lock right across a slot-in rack).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I wouldn't show any consideration to anyone who does that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Luckily it's rare.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In many places if you want to store a lock, the done thing is to lock it to something like a bike shed pillar or the outer side of the outer rack, so it's easily accessed and not in anyone's way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "My views on this are perhaps quite harsh, as I park at a couple of stations where some people park all day and others all night.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Overlap is inevitable.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Offices are rather different in that they tend to be occupied for the same part of the day.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 14 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "This will depend on MANY things, including but not limited to: local custom office politics special concerns (I can't think of any, but more in this later) utilization of the rack your feelings on the matter type of lock Local custom is important.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "In some areas it's horridly rude; in others it's common.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Does the parking complex for cars have assigned spots?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so then the lock on the rack is probably just an extension of that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Office politics play a big role.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Does the lock belong to the owner of the building and buyer of the rack?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Because if it does, you're out of luck.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It doesn't matter if it's rude or not - you're not going to win this fight.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Or does it belong to an employee who has made a stink in the past and the proposed solution to some problem was to leave the lock?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I can't really think of any special concerns that would affect this, but I do have a similar example from when I used to leave the lock on the lockers at the company gym.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Essentially, I was told it was rude to leave the lock on the lockers at the company gym.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But this was an arrangement I made with management because I would frequently work half a shift, work out, shower, return to work the other half of the shift, and leaving smelly work out clothes (and I can be smelly) in the locker room was better then stinking up the office.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "And, because my time around the campus was extensive, in the morning it was better to deposit the clothes in the locker then to have the gym bag around my desk.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If the rack is under utilized, and you know it's going to stay that way, it's a much smaller issue.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For example, a 25-bike rack with an office size of 20 people and only 5 of them bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Then it's not rude at all.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is tricky.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But make sure you have a legitimate reason to be upset.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Often we bikers think of ourselves as \"last on the list\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "We see it as a treat to have a bike lane that's clean and free of debris.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Make sure you're looking at this issue objectively.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I would add that the type of lock is important.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Our local bike shop has around ten types of lock, ranging from a simple cable with built in lock weighing around a pound to massive, complicated bar and cable \"systems\" that weigh closer to 25 pounds.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Their most popular option is a 5 pound cable and U lock combo.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Either way, I would not want to carry around some of their heavier locks.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25324/coteyr", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Does the lock make it harder for another person to use that space?", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If so leaving the lock is rude.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If not then it is not rude.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If parking your own bike in that space makes it harder for the lock owner to get their lock off so they can use it in another space, that's really for the lock owner to have to deal with and nobody else.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Probably the small inconvenience outweighs having to carry a (possibly very heavy) lock on a daily commute.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the bike room at my office many people leave locks on the racks, never an issue.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1914/Adam Eberbach", "score": 3 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The polite thing for the lock owner to do would be to \"store\" the lock in a place in the rack (eg; at the base) where it's not in anyone's way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "If it's stored in an inobtrusive place or manner,then I'm ok with it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Otherwise, if it's in a prime spot, it is an unauthorized reservation of that spot.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "I often encounter this in a crowded bike rack, and I find it quite rude.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26746/little ray", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "We have a bicycle parking rack near the office building. It's rather large: for about 30-35 bikes. Someone has left their lock (chain or whatever) locked around one part of the rack. So, I've got two questions: is this rude, or it's just me thinking this way? can I park my bike on such a place if there are no other options?", "title": "Leaving lock on the parking rack - is this rude?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<lock><etiquette><parking>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/40684", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4007/k102" }

[ [ "Leaving a bike lock on a bike rack may be considered rude in some circumstances and not in others. It mainly depends on the local custom and office politics. If the bike rack is under used, it is obviously not an issue. I, however, it is preventing other people parking their bikes, it is rude. Other riders are still free to park their bikes in that spot and if the lock owner cannot retrieve their lock, that is their problem. oof course the lock owner may just be saving themself the trouble of having to carry the lock every day. TROUBLE OF HAVING TO CARRY THE LOCK WITH THEM EVERYDAY.", "If there are enough free spaces or the lock is not blocking a prime space, the lock was probably just left by the rider to save carrying it to and from work every day. It depends on local attitudes and customs, but it's normally polite to lock it out of the way, and for other riders not to obstruct access to it if possible. You can avoid that space if others are available, but reserving it would be unauthorised so you can park there if you need to." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "If there are enough free spaces or the lock is not blocking a prime space, the lock was probably just left by the rider to save carrying it to and from work every day. It depends on local attitudes, but it's normally polite to lock it out of the way, and for other riders not to obstruct access to it if possible.", "If the lock is used to reserve a space, this is normally considered rude, but otherwise it can be ignored as a minor issue." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "@rclocher3's electrical tape is the easier way to go, but I often use strips of old tube to wrap things of this nature.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "To keep the wrap in place I dab some vulcanizing fluid hither and thither along the underside.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This saves electrical tape for electrical things, is perhaps a bit more rugged than tape, and also provides fodder for people who would mock me on stackexchange.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25313/Fing Lixon", "score": 15 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I've used some heat shrink in the past for things like this, it's used in situations to replace electrical tape.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Usually, I use a soldering iron to heat it up after getting it in place, but a hair dryer might also work", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "but it'd take a little longer though.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I originally used electrical tape - the \"rubbery-ness\" of the tape was quite appealing as it stopped things slipping, but it went gooey after a few months.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10916/jonifen", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "When the orange rubber padding dried up and cracked away on my guitar stand, I peeled it off and replaced it with clear, PVC hose of a similar diameter, plugging the hose ends with the original plugs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It provides good cushioning.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "PVC is the same thing as what is already on the hook, namely vinyl.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The word \"vinyl\", when it refers to a material, is usually just a short name for polyvinyl chloride (PVC).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "PVC hose is an easy way to effectively get a really thick vinyl coating onto a steel rod instantly, without any dipping or painting.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Because some of the curves are rather tight, the hose inner diameter should be generously larger than the hook's diameter.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The extra width, thickness and air gaps between the hose and the hook will also provide better cushioning than the original coating, letting you be more abrupt in your movements when you hang the bike or take it down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It doesn't specifically have to be PVC.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I chose it for that guitar stand because it's durable: it will last long without drying up and cracking like the original covering.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Being transparent, it also looks kind of good on that particular guitar stand, over its chrome tubing.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Tip: if pulling hose onto the hook gets a little difficult, in spite of good sizing, a dab of vaseline will help.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5088/Kaz", "score": 6 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There is a liquid sold in hardware stores that is advertised as being a fast and easy way to make a rubbery coating for a tool handle: just dip the tool into the liquid and let it dry.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the US it's called \"Plasti Dip\".", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You might try that.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Personally I think I'd just wrap the hooks tightly with two or three layers of electrical tape; the tape stays put better if you cut the tape with scissors rather than stretching the tape to break it.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Electrical tape is sold in many colors these days, so you could match the color fairly closely if you or your significant other is picky about such things ;)", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26527/rclocher3", "score": 5 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "The obvious answer to me is (old) handlebar tape!", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Vinyl covered wall mounted bike hooks coating is wearing away due to use. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched? Using These type of hooks:", "title": "Rubber on wall mounted bike hooks is wearing away. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<storage>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/41542", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo" }

[ [ "Worn rubber on wall-mounted bike hooks can be replaced with olf pieces of tube, heat shrink, electrical tape, pvc hose, handlebar tape and liquid rubber product.", "Possible coverings include pvc tubing or hose, heat shrink covering or wrapping in electrical or handlebar tape. Electrical tape may be too thin and easily damaged for this purpose. Hooks can also be dipped in coating liquid sold in hardware stores." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Possible coverings include pvc tubing or hose, heat shrink covering or wrapping in electrical or handlebar tape. Electrical tape may be too thin and easily damaged for this purpose.", "Hooks can also be dipped in coating liquid sold in hardware stores." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Consider how you feel when a fellow cyclist approaches you will full beam straight ahead.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "It's pretty blinding, even for a moment, and especially off-road when your eyes aren't used to it.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So in a park: Dim your light to its lowest setting (within reason).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Put it on steady beam.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Flashing is more visible but also more annoying anddisorientating.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Physically push it forwards/downwards", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "so it's pointing towards the ground, not into anyone's face.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you do this then it doesn't matter whether you illuminate pedestrians or for how long.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29665/PeteC", "score": 38 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "There are now many bike lights on the market which have a shaped beam with a \"horizontal cutoff\" giving strong light onto the road or path, but much less above the horizon.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "When adjusted correctly these allow you to see where you're going without dazzling oncoming traffic or pedestrians.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I use a Busch & Muller Ixon IQ (pictured), but there are others .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If you don't want to fork out for a new light, you can make a hood for the light to block the light from going upwards.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5337/James Bradbury", "score": 34 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I had to face exactly this on an old commute.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Dipping the front light was absolutely necessary in a park and another stretch of unlit bike path.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It was a bright enough light to illuminate the road, though not well enough to ride at any decent rate on low power.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The solution I found to this was to add a narrow-beam head torch.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "This can be dipped hands free, and points where you look rather than where the bars are pointing (quite useful when it's pitch dark and you're next to a lake going round sharp bends).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Overhanging branches can mean the need to illuminate stuff that's not the road surface, so I tended to adjust the light as I rode much as you'd switch from main beams to dipped beams in a car.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The head torch I bought was ~5 from dealextreme, and is 150 lumens nominal -- so not very much ligfht in total.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "But all that light is in a bike-sized area of road even if it's directed 10 bike lengths away.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I tended to adjust the angle such that I had to tip my head slightly up to illuminate as far away as I'd like for ~30km/h speeds on imperfect tarmac, so that a natural head position was more suited to slower speeds with other people around.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In busy areas well-lit I could easily point it almost straight down.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H", "score": 9 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "You can dip the light slightly (point it towards the ground).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Even without considering politeness, you might prefer to illuminate the ground ahead of you, instead of (as you would on a lit city street) pointing it straight forward to be seen as maximum distance.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "In case you can read German, here's a nice explanation how to adjust the bike front light .", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "Summary: put bike 5m from a wall measure distance (height) of the light from the street make sure that the upper rim of the light at 5m distance (wall) is below that height.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0, 1 ] ] }, { "text": "Official German regulation: center of light beam should be at half height at 5 m distance = should hit the road at 10 m distance Adjust speed according to visible range (just like when driving a car)", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7450/cbeleites unhappy with SX", "score": 7 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I wear an adjustable head strap flashlight at night while riding my bike.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The one I have has three colors (white, red and green)which allows me to use a less intense color at times, so as not to blind people.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "As an addition to three colors, of has three level of intensity.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is worth looking into.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "With this you are able to turn your head slightly when needed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "These examples may be of help to you.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "The one pictured is the style I use at the moment.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26813/Ken Graham", "score": 2 } } ]

{ "question": "Sometimes I ride in the park which has no light. There always are dog walkers, runners and other cyclists.So, when I ride towards someone I have two options: dim my light and slow down (since I can't go fast anymore) speed up to to minimize time that I light on those people My front light is: So, the question is: how to be less irritating?", "title": "Polite way to ride in the dark", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<lighting><etiquette><night-riding>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43012", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4007/k102" }

[ [ "The best way to avoid annoying other park users at night with your bike lights, if you don't want to buy new more controllable lights, is to dim the lightsto their lowest setting or angle them downwards. If the lights can't be tilted, a hood can be made for this purpose.", "Lights may be irritating if they are too bright, flashing, moving around or pointed at eye level. Bike lights and some torches are designed to direct the beam downwards and reduce glare for other road users. If your light is not like this, dim it and point it downward if possible. You can make a hood for a torch to prevent too much light from being directed at people's eyes, or face a wall and adjust the beam to direct most of the light at the ground 5m in front of you." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "Lights may be irritating if they are too bright, flashing, moving around or pointed at eye level. Bike lights and some torches are designed to direct the beam downwards and reduce glare for other road users. If your light is not like this, dim it and point it downward if possible.", "You can make a hood for a torch to prevent too much light from being directed at people's eyes, or face a wall and adjust the beam to direct most of the light at the ground 5m in front of you." ] ]

[ { "sents": [ { "text": "Rule #41 Quick-release levers are to be carefully positioned.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": ": Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not allow the preferred positioning.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This is for maximum aero effect.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29740/The Bogeyman", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Something noone has mentioned is that the QR lever is not to be touching the frame or fork when in the closed position.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Reasons for this are the clamping force is not as high as it could be the frame or fork can slowly push on the lever and loosen it a bit more over time.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie", "score": 11 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "I'd put both of them in a way they can't be hit by rocks or branches.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "I had no trouble aligning them as described below.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "So: for the front wheel it should be aligned with the fork.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "For the rear wheel I think two possible and secure options are to point it upwards or align with seat stay.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4007/k102", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "For disc brake bikes specifically, you want to have them positioned in the way that makes them easiest to open without touching the discs.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For the front this is easily achieved by putting the lever on the right (in whatever orientation you fancy), but you can also have it slightly in front of the fork on the rotor side (behind also works if it's not interfering w/ the caliper).", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In the rear, I find that just slightly below the chainstay works best for me, making it easy to brace against the chainstay for both opening and closing.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29446/Jamie A", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Front QR is to be exactly parallel to the fork arm.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Rear QR is to be positioned exactly half way in between the chainstay and the seatstay, oriented to the inside of the frame.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19106/ebrohman", "score": 2 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Mechanically it makes no difference, since the quick-release work any way you position the lever.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The only reason to adjust the levers position is for the ease of use.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The best way is to position the front lever slightly behind the fork (not aligned along the fork, otherwise you cant press the lever down completely and its hard to open because you cant get between lever and fork with your fingers).", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Same for the rear: between the two makes the lever accessible most easy.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "You can press with the thumb on the chainstay/seatstay and open the lever easy.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29738/michaelsinner", "score": 1 } }, { "sents": [ { "text": "Personally, I think it depends a little on the design of the quick release lever.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I put my front one pointing upwards aligned with the fork.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "However, some quick release designs will actually contact the fork before they are fully closed.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "In this case I would place it slightly behind the fork.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "For the back quick release, I position it between the seat and chain stays.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "Again if you have something in the way, you'll have to adjust parallel with the seatstay or even behind it a bit if something is in the way.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ -1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "I've seen some people position them both facing backwards.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] }, { "text": "The idea is that they are less likely to catch on something and open as you are riding.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "However, I think this makes them more likely to be opened by some other factor when not riding because there is nothing guarding them.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "This would be fine if you checked them before each ride, as we probably should, but most people probably aren't consistently checking their quick releases every time they ride.", "label": [ 0 ], "label_summ": [ 0 ], "cluster_id": [ [ -1 ] ] }, { "text": "If they are in a position that they are least likely to be opened accidentally in most situations, then that is probably the safest.", "label": [ 1 ], "label_summ": [ 1 ], "cluster_id": [ [ 0 ] ] } ], "answer_details": { "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee", "score": 1 } } ]

{ "question": "Is it best to have the front wheel release lever in front of the fork, tailing the fork, or aligned with the fork? How about the rear; ahead, behind, or alingned with the chainstays, seatstays, or between the two?", "title": "What is the proper position for quick-release levers?", "forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com", "question_tags": "<quick-release>", "link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43113", "author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29737/grasshopper" }

[ [ "Mechanically it makes no difference, since the quick-release work any way you position the lever. The only reason to adjust the levers position is for the ease of use. Quick-release levers should be put in so that they can't be hit by rocks or branches. For the front wheel it should be aligned with the fork. For the rear wheel the two possible and secure options are to point it upwards or align with seat stay. If they are in a position that they are least likely to be opened accidentally in most situations, then that is probably the safest.", "The levers should not be touching the frame or forks when closed, as this may mean that they are not fully locked. While the mechanics are not affected by the positioning, it should reduce the risk of getting caught or opening by accident. Another consideration is ease of opening and closing without obstruction or touching brake discs and other fragile components." ] ]

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[ 5 ]

[ [ "The levers should not be touching the frame or forks when closed, as this may mean that they are not fully locked. While the mechanics are not affected by the positioning, it should reduce the risk of getting caught or opening by accident. Another consideration is ease of opening and closing without obstruction or touching brake discs and other fragile components." ] ]