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"text": "This PDF indicates an increase by ~10 dB for an F-8K in afterburner versus the same aircraft in 100% dry thrust.",
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"text": "This PDF indicates smaller increases: +5 dB for an F-15 +4 dB for F-22 and F-35",
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"text": "It has been around 20 years since I've been on a carrier deck, but I recall that it wasn't as dramatic of an increase as you might think.",
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"text": "It may have gotten a little bit louder, but what I remember more is that the tone changed.",
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"text": "The sound was more \"full\" when the afterburner was engaged.",
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"text": "I realize this is a rather subjective answer.",
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"text": "I would say definitely yes, because of all the extra energy added to the exhaust flow and it's obvious to anyone who attended enough military airshows.",
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"text": "Watch an F-16 depart with reheat on, then reduce thrust to military power (max thrust with reheat off) on the climb out, and it almost sounds like the engine flamed out.",
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"text": "The flow out the nozzle may be just over mach at military power, but will be well over Mach 2 with reheat on.",
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"text": "The nozzle changes shape with afterburner to manage all the extra energy and pressure, from a straight convergent duct to a convergent/divergent duct, like a rocket exhaust bell.",
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"text": "Although he doesn't cover the noise issue, this video explains why the nozzle has to change shape to control the mass flow through the engine because of all the heat energy added (math warning to those put in a catatonic state by arcane formulae).",
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"text": "The extra sound that results is a given.",
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"text": "To explain if the afterburner makes the engine louder, you must understand what the afterburner does.",
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"text": "In the afterburner, the exhaust gases are re-heated by injecting fuel in the afterburner duct.",
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"text": "The left oxygen is used to burn the fuel, which results in an increased exhaust gas flow.",
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"text": "Note that the engine itself will not spool up faster: this is done by opening the exhaust nozzle; without opening the nozzle, the pressure would be too high and the fan would stall.",
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"text": "The extra gases leaving the engine produce a higher velocity jet stream; more mass and more velocity will yield more thrust, which is the purpose of afterburning fuel.",
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"text": "If you look at jet noise modelling , you will find that the formula to calculate the jet noise includes the exhaust velocity (to the power of 8), so increasing the fuel flow and increasing the velocity will also increase the noise production.",
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"text": "The referenced model has been implemented in our gas turbine simulation program and verified against the noise measurements of a fighter aircraft to find that this model perfectly agrees with the measurements.",
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"text": "From an energy standpoint, the engine produces heat, thrust, and less significantly, sound.",
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"text": "Ignore the afterburner for a second and just consider throttling up, whether a jet or your car.",
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"text": "The engine gets louder.",
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"text": "That's not a law of physics, that's just what happens.",
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"text": "There's no theoretical reason why the extra waste energy can't go 101% into heat, and -1% into sound (think of noise-cancelling headphones) or into sound at frequencies inaudible to the human ear.",
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"text": "But practical combustion engines get louder (both overall and to the human ear) as they burn fuel faster.",
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"text": "You would be surprised if throttling up made your engine quieter.",
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"text": "The same goes for increasing fuel burn via afterburner, only more so.",
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"text": "For one thing the afterburner is inefficient, so there is a higher proportion of waste energy to dissipate.",
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"text": "For another the afterburner noise happens later and is less controllable, even if there was any desire to do so.",
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"question": "I would speculate that an afterburner increases the noise because it is nearer to the exhaust. But it certainly causes so many changes in the exhaust flow that it could be less loud as well. It may also depend on the shape of the nozzle. That an afterburner increases the spacial volume of exhaust gases does not necessarily mean that the sound volume increases as well, because it strongly depends on the level of turbulence. Does activating an afterburner make a jet engine louder? And why?",
"title": "Is an afterburner louder than the same jet engine without it?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<aerodynamics><jet-engine><fighter><supersonic><noise>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/71951",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/1875/Volker Siegel"
} | 23_39 | [
[
"S0: I would say definitely yes, because of all the extra energy added to the exhaust flow and it's obvious to anyone who attended enough military airshows. It may get a little bit louder, but what is more noticeable is that the tone changes. If you look at jet noise modelling , you will find that the formula to calculate the jet noise includes the exhaust velocity (to the power of 8), so increasing the fuel flow and increasing the velocity will also increase the noise production. ",
"Scientifically speaking, the extra energy due to added fuel flow should produce extra noise. However, in practice that is subjective, and it can be argued that there is only a small increase; the sound mainly changes in pitch."
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"It is subjective, but it can be argued that there is only a small increase; the sound mainly changes in pitch.",
"Scientifically speaking, the extra energy due to added fuel flow should produce extra noise."
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"text": "It's hugely unlikely.",
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"text": "Almost vanishingly unlikely, with few exceptions perhaps for something a little smaller than a passenger-carrying A380 (like a private jet on a repositioning flight where you know the captain well) You used to be able to go up and see the captain on the flight deck -",
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"text": "I did it a few times as a kid.",
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"text": "Even then asking to sit in the jump seat was usually met with a smirk.",
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"text": "And then 9-11 happened.",
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"text": "With effect from 1 November 2003, ICAO Annex 6 was amended so that under Chapter 13.2.2 “all passenger-carrying aeroplanes of a maximum certificated take-off mass in excess of 45 500 kg or with a passenger seating capacity greater than 60 shall be equipped with an approved flight crew",
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"text": "compartment door that is designed to resist penetration by small arms fire and grenade shrapnel, and to resist forcible intrusions by unauthorised persons.",
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"text": "This door shall be capable of being locked and unlocked from either pilot’s station”.",
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"text": "And with that came locking of the cockpit door, and no more visits to the cockpit during flight",
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"text": "(incidentally, if you ask nicely, the captain will often let kids take a peek when they're deplaning the passengers)",
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"text": "And then germanwings happened, and they had a rethink.",
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"text": "But still no visits to the cockpit during flight at all for the average Joe.",
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"text": "As a non-professional pilot, to get a ride in the cockpit jumpseat, you'd have to meet at least three conditions: company policy must allow passenger in jumpseat PIC must allow passenger in jumpseat you'd have to be well known and trusted person to either SIC or PIC (preferrably PIC) If you fail to meet any of those, no jumpseat ride for you.",
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"text": "So, very slim chances, but not impossible.",
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"text": "The aforementioned is based on personal experience, multiple occasions, and applies to a major intercontinental airline which I will not name.",
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"text": "I regrettably inform you that your chances are very slim, outside of actually completing the training required to fly the aircraft.",
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"text": "In this world where aircraft terrorism is always a concern, you would have to have a very good reason to convince the captain why he has to put a complete stranger in the cockpit.",
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"text": "To the captain, the stranger is simply someone claiming to have flight experience.",
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"text": "To the stranger, it may be an experience; to the captain, it is a routine, daily job, with schedules, policies and regulations to follow.",
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"text": "In my airline, this would be strictly against policy.",
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"text": "Even if we were to jumpseat a flight attendant, there has to a necessity to do so (e.g. no rooms in the cabin / broken seat etc.)",
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"text": "There are companies that provide simulator rides to the general public.",
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"text": "There are none that provide a jump seat ride as far as I've heard.",
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"text": "Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with the linked company.",
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"text": "I would suggest to purchase a training session for A320 in a certified flight simulator like this one , for instance.",
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"text": "I understand this is not a real flight, but these simulators feature full scale cockpits with all controls, and the realistic algorithms to simulate the flight itself.",
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"text": "A",
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"text": "after the instructor giving you an introduction, you will be able to take the controls yourself during take off.",
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"text": "This may work pretty well as a counter-measure against the fear of flying.",
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"text": "This is not really direct answer to the question 'as-is'.",
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"text": "It's more answer to '",
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"text": "how can a Non-Pilot' fly regularly in the jumpseat.",
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"text": "Just become Flight Dispatcher.",
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"text": "In many airlines that gives you 'Known Crew' badge.",
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"text": "And with it and PIC permission you can fly in the cockpit as much as you wish.",
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"text": "Dispatchers even trump flight attendands in that regard.",
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"text": "Regular jumpsitting is part of the work actually.",
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"text": "Some FDs just use it as a meaning of commute - in the US per ALPAs rules AFAIK.",
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"text": "The catch - in the EU",
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"text": "the training is 2000 EUR, the course requires you to pass 14 exams - the very same as for ATPL :D &",
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"question": "A couple of years ago, I had a strong fear of flying. Now, I really enjoy it. In fact, it is a dream of mine to sit in the jumpseat of an A320 during takeoff. I've had a handful of flying lessons. If I took my logbook and explained my interest to the captain, is there any chance this could happen? If not, how could I make it happen?",
"title": "How can I get a ride in the jump seat as a non-professional pilot?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<commercial-aviation><cockpit>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/72273",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/27677/Cloud"
} | 23_40 | [
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"It seems it is almost impossible for a passeneger to get a ride in the jumpseat in the cockpit. Most airlines would not permit this. The best option is to do it in a simulator.",
"While some would argue that there is no clear answer to the question in the way it is posed, the general consensus is that this is hugely unlikely to happen, as in order to be able to be inside the cockpit, due to the rise in terrorism, certain strict conditions must be met. The best solution is to experience this in a flight simulator."
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"This is hugely unlikely to happen, as in order to be able to be inside the cockpit, due to the rise in terrorism, certain strict conditions must be met.",
"The best solution is to experience this in a flight simulator.",
"There is no clear answer to the question in the way it is posed."
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"text": "Yes it's called a Deep Stall , and is mostly a problem with T Tail aircraft, especially jets with Supercritical Airfoil wings (like the CRJ Regional Jet line).",
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"text": "Such wings stall from the leading edge and the stall's flow separation spreads rapidly and completely across the entire wing all at once, so there is very little residual nose down pitching moment.",
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"text": "Plus the T tail ends up in a spot where it's in the wake of the flow from the wing, and gets blanked out, and loses its ability to pitch the nose over with positive lift since it's sitting there in the turbulent wake of the wing.",
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"text": "So the plane just mushes downward in an unrecoverable, stabilized, well, mush, and will pancake into the ground like that.",
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"text": "A CRJ200 test aircraft was lost in development testing when it got into a deep stall and IIRC, the stall/spin recovery parachute in the tail failed to deploy (or it didn't have one at the time; I forget which).",
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"text": "Such airplanes require, in addition to the usual stick shaker, a stick pusher to force the nose over, by shoving the control column for you if you do nothing while the shaker is going off, before the natural stall can occur, since the natural stall can be unrecoverable.",
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"text": "Generally if an airplane has a stick pusher system it means it has a deep stall mode.",
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"text": "What you describe is a tailslide, as another answer has noted -- but there is a condition in which the wing is stalled and the normal recovery method (apply down elevator and wait for the nose to drop and airspeed to build) can't be used.",
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"text": "It's called a \"deep stall\" and is only a problem with certain layouts of flying surfaces.",
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"text": "One of the best known is a T-tail in which the spacing between wing and horizontal tail is such that it's possible for the turbulent wash from the stalled wing to completely blanket the stabilizer and elevators, making it impossible for those surfaces to overcome the drag pushing the nose up.",
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"text": "This can make a deep stall unrecoverable in certain T-tail aircraft (the F-104 was infamous for this, and it also affects some sailplanes).",
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"text": "Worthy of note is that deep stalls (commonly called a \"falling leaf\") were a common maneuver in the days of fabric covered biplanes; many of these had enough elevator authority to hold the stall, and enough rudder to keep the stall \"straight ahead\" rather than letting it turn into a spin.",
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"text": "They were used as an alternative to a slip, to dump altitude without letting airspeed increase excessively.",
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"text": "Most monoplane designs (that I'm familiar with) don't have enough pitch authority to hold a deep stall (part of making aircraft spin resistant is making them stall gently), so the maneuver has fallen out of general familiarity.",
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"text": "The difference between a controlled deep stall and an unrecoverable one is loss of pitch authority due to blanketing of the horizontal tail.",
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"text": "Yes.",
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"text": "Moving CG farther and farther back will eventually cause the plane to be directionally stable falling backwards.",
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"text": "Abusing rearward CG limits is contributory to this condition.",
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"text": "Secondly, poor design of horizontal stabilizer, particularly, lacking sufficient \"weathervaning\" area, will cause an aircraft to be more susceptible to the unrecoverable \"deep stall\".",
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"text": "With models, this is tested by holding the plane horizontal to the ground and releasing it with no forward motion.",
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"text": "The relative wind, being 90 degrees to the wing and tail, means they are both stalled, but the pitch torque from the DRAG on the horizontal stabilizer, the rear fuselage and the trailing edge of the wing should flip the nose down and unstall the plane.",
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"text": "Higher aspect wings and/or",
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"text": "a shorter fuselage requires greater tail area for the same pitch torque, AND, a larger weight to surface area ratio (bigger plane) also requires a greater tail/wing area ratio.",
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"text": "Placement of the all important horizontal stabilizer can also affect its performance.",
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"text": "If it is in the \"shadow\" of the wing, as with T tails, a very high angle of attack can limit its ability to create pitch down torque.",
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"text": "Downwash from the wing can also affect a \"low\" Hstab.",
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"text": "Lengthening the fuselage is a remedy for not only wing airflow effects, but also increases the pitch torquing lever arm of the aircraft, enabling the same size Hstab to be more effective.",
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"text": "Thrust angling is also a key factor to assisting in pitch down torque.",
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"text": "Many aircraft have their thrust line angled down a few degrees, which helps control pitch up tendency as the plane accelerates.",
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"text": "Choice of sound and proven design is important, as well as keeping CG within limits.",
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"text": "No, it is not possible that the nose will “refuse to go down” with “the rear end pointed straight down”.",
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"text": "If the aircraft is going down tail first, then there IS airflow over the wings.",
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"text": "It may be briefly in the wrong direction, but the center of gravity and placement of the wings will soon have it pointed in the correct direction.",
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"text": "With the nose pointed down again, the wings may still be stalled, but there will be airflow over the wings, and the stall will be recoverable with the correct control inputs.",
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"text": "If a conventionally laid out aircraft is flown into a tail slide, it's unlikely that it could maintain that attitude for long.",
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"text": "The tail has low mass relative to the rest of the aircraft and a substantial moment between the tail surfaces and aircraft center of mass.",
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"text": "As negative airspeed (falling down tail first) builds, aerodynamic forces on the tail will cause it to flip around.",
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"text": "Angular momentum will continue the rotation until there is enough opposing aerodynamic force to stop it.",
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"text": "While a deep stall may be unrecoverable, a tail slide should be recoverable, given a sturdy airframe, enough altitude and the correct control inputs properly timed.",
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"text": "Hypothetically:",
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"text": "Given an aircraft of conventional layout, if it was released at zero airspeed and level attitude, the greater surface area of the tail as well as the greater surface area of the wing aft of its center of gravity will create a force that will rotate it nose down.",
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"text": "What distinguishes this sort of scenario from a deep stall is that the condition is unstable and robustly forcing the airframe towards a normally-oriented airflow.",
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"question": "So basically, a stall from a high AoA to the point that the entire plane just falls with the rear end pointing straight down? Because if wind is no longer passing over the wings, then this includes the elevator, and the elevator can’t deflect the wind with no forward speed?",
"title": "Is it possible to stall a plane so badly that the nose refuses to go down due to lack of airspeed?",
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"question_tags": "<aerodynamics><aircraft-performance><commercial-aviation><flight-controls>",
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"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/44082/Firefighter1"
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[
"Yes it's called a Deep Stall , and is mostly a problem with T Tail aircraft, especially jets with Supercritical Airfoil wings (like the CRJ Regional Jet line). Moving CG farther and farther back will eventually cause the plane to be directionally stable falling backwards. Secondly, poor design of horizontal stabilizer, particularly, lacking sufficient \"weathervaning\" area, will cause an aircraft to be more susceptible to the unrecoverable \"deep stall\". ",
"While some would argue that this kind of stalling is impossible or at least highly unlikely to happen, and when the aircraft is descending tail-first, there is airflow over the wings, it is mostly claimed that this kind of stalling is possible and is called a \"deep stall\" or a \"tailside\" and can manifest due to many factors, namely poor design of the stabilizer or moving the CG too far back. It is very hard to recover from this."
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"This kind of stalling is possible and is called a \"deep stall\" or a \"tailside\" and can manifest due to many factors, namely poor design of the stabilizer or moving the CG too far back. It is very hard to recover from this.",
"This kind of stalling is impossible or at least highly unlikely to happen, and when the aircraft is descending tail-first, there is airflow over the wings."
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"text": "The problem is that in bypass engines, the fan blades are much longer than the turbine blades that drive them.",
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"text": "Both compressors and turbines should rotate as fast as possible, without shock waves occurring at the tip - so linear tip speed has an upper limit, meaning the compressor with longer blades must turn much slower than the turbine driving it.",
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"text": "This is what the geared turbofan does, reduces the rotational velocity relative to that of the turbine so that both can rotate at their optimum angular velocity.",
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"text": "The forces involved and the required reliability make it not an easy design task, as noted in this answer , Does it improve fuel efficiency?",
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"text": "It does, when both the fan and the compressor can rotate at their optimum speed, and when the gearbox does not add much friction.",
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"text": "The gearbox is located between the front fan and the rest of the engine.",
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"text": "It lets the front fan spin at a lower rate than the main shaft.",
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"text": "Image source: aerospaceamerica.aiaa.org",
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"text": "The advantage of this setup is that the front fan can have longer blades to cover a larger cross-section area, while the low-pressure compressor and turbine blades in the core can spin faster to improve fuel efficiency.",
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"text": "The purpose of the reduction gearbox is to improve engine efficiency.",
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"text": "Normally in a turbofan engine",
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"text": "the low speed turbine and fan are connected by a direct drive turbine shaft that requires the low turbine and fan to run at the same speed.",
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"text": "In a geared engine, the gearbox allows both the fan and turbine to run at their optimum speeds.",
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"text": "In this case, the turbine can run faster with fewer stages and airfoils, which increases efficiency.",
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"text": "The fan can run at a slower speed but at a larger diameter to push larger amounts of air at a slower velocity.",
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"text": "A simple formula for propulsive efficiency is: $$ N =",
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"text": "V_e / V_o} $$ Where $V_e$ is the exhaust velocity of the engine and $V_o$",
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"text": "As $V_e$ lowers to the point where it equals the speed of the aircraft,",
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"text": "The larger slow moving fan in a geared engine allows large mass flow with low velocity which improves efficiency.",
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"text": "The low velocity also makes the fan quieter.",
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"text": "To increase the propulsive efficiency (total efficiency is the product of gas turbine thermodynamic and propulsive efficiency)",
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"text": "we need to accelerate more mass flow less fast: this requires larger fan diameters.",
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"text": "See e.g. this answer which describes how the bypass air provides thrust.",
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"text": "The formula: $$ F = \\frac{\\text{d}}{\\text{d}t} p = m \\frac{\\text{d}}{\\text{d}t}",
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"text": "v = m \\cdot a $$ shows that increasing the mass flow $m$ for the same amount of thrust requires less acceleration $a$ .",
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"text": "This can potentially improve the fuel economy, but there is a limit, increasing frontal area will also cause the drag to increase.",
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"text": "As said in this answer , tip speed is a limiting factor, so we need to reduce the spool speed.",
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"text": "The problem with decreasing the spool speed is that the work generated in the low pressure turbine (which is coupled by a shaft to the fan) needs a large diameter and more stages to get enough power from the gas to power the fan (let's not get too technical in discussing blade loading).",
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"text": "A large low turbine diameter is not very effective for the bypass flow of the engine (how do you get the bypass air around it), therefore the spool speed of the low pressure turbine is increased to be able to use a smaller diameter.",
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"text": "This mismatch in spool speed requires a gearing solution.",
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"text": "Note that very large amounts of power are being transmitted through the gear box, even with very high efficiencies this requires a lot of heat to be dissipated.",
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"text": "Getting rid of the waste heat and the large loading has proven to be a very difficult design task.",
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"text": "The preceding explanations are good.",
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"text": "But - interesting add-on is the notion that the gearing of a turbine is hardly a new concept",
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"text": "- it's been around for decades in the form of turboprop engines.",
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"text": "The Allison T56 is an example of a geared Turboprop engine.",
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"text": "Simplistically, the difference between earlier turboprop designs and the more recent GTF design(s) - are the difference between a ducted fan and unducted propeller.",
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"question": "I've read that the P&W PW1000G engine has a reduction gearbox. What is it and does it have any relation to the fan or compressor speed? Does it improve fuel efficiency?",
"title": "What does a reduction gearbox do in a turbofan engine?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<geared-turbofan>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/72581",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/25154/Johnson"
} | 23_42 | [
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"This is what the geared turbofan does, reduces the rotational velocity relative to that of the turbine so that both can rotate at their optimum angular velocity. The advantage of this setup is that the front fan can have longer blades to cover a larger cross-section area, while the low-pressure compressor and turbine blades in the core can spin faster to improve fuel efficiency. ",
"It allows the front fan and the main shaft to operate each at their optimum speed and angular velocity, thus being more efficient."
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"It allows the front fan and the main shaft to operate each at their optimum speed and angular velocity, thus being more efficient."
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"text": "Image source Larger helicopters have landing wheels, and as we can see on the picture above, they are placed as far outward as practically possible in order to provide stability in the landing.",
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"text": "Touch down one wheel on an sideways inclined slope, lower the collective, and the helicopter will align itself onto the slope with: The location of the Centre of Gravity (CoG) always in between the wheels.",
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"text": "The higher the CoG, the wider the landing gear impact points must be.",
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"text": "The weight being supported on clearly defined and structurally reinforced points.",
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"text": "Even if the bottom of the helicopter is perfectly flat, the landing ground may not be, and to support all of the weight at any random point at the bottom requires a lot of relatively useless weight for the re-inforcement.",
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"text": "The behaviour after first wheel touchdown being clearly defined.",
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"text": "The wheel is a point of impact upon the landing plane, mathematically much more defined than a plane of impact upon a landing plane if the latter is curved.",
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"text": "All the above is for wheels, which allow the helicopter to taxi on-ground.",
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"text": "Skids perform all of the above functions apart from the on-ground taxiing, and are cheaper and lighter than retractable landing wheels.",
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"text": "Of course, the other downside is that they have more drag.",
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"text": "One would not want to land this helicopter without the skids!",
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"text": "Physically they likely could, but helicopters (and all aircraft for that matter) tend to have stuff mounted to the bottom like antennas, probes, cameras etc.",
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"text": "so adding some kind of landing gear or skid helps to provide clearance for all that.",
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"text": "This question covers a bit about whats mounted where.",
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"text": "The belly of a helicopter also tends to not be perfectly flat (depending on the model)",
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"text": "so belly landing can lead to some roll which may allow the rotors to scrape the ground.",
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"text": "Skids are especially beneficial when the helicopter is supposed to land on rough ground, e.g. grass.",
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"text": "They move the body and the rotors farther away from the ground, thus giving both more clearance.",
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"text": "Compared to extending the body to the ground to achive the same effect, skids add less weight and significantly less air resistance.",
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"text": "Compared to wheels they are better suited for rough ground, as they have a larger contact area and thus tend to sink less into the ground.",
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"text": "Wheels on the other hand have the advantage when the helicopter usually lands on concrete or other solid ground.",
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"text": "Here they allow taxiing.",
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"text": "That's why you tend to see skids on smaller helicopters which tend to land on grass or other uneven terrain, while larger helicopters, which tend to land on more solid ground, tend to have wheels.",
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"text": "Also, skids are simpler than wheels, which also suits smaller, cheaper helicopters better.",
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"text": "Skids, as opposed to wheels, allows the pilot to get some sense of balancing tail rotor counter torque before lift off.",
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"text": "Skids would provide more drag until the pilot \"got it\".",
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"text": "Same thing moving forward, backwards, or side to side.",
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"text": "The skid friction limits movement (or damps it if you will), rather than creating a nightmare of correct/overcorrect in 2 dimensions. Skids also add an important amount of rotor clearance, and offer simplicity, reliability, and light weight.",
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"text": "An additional benefit of longer skids is some energy absorption upon a vertical crash.",
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"text": "The skids are generally designed to bend outwards and up during impact.",
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"text": "This can be seen occurring on many helicopter crash videos.",
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"text": "The design of impact absorbing skids is covered extensively here .",
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"text": "As pointed out above, not all helicopters use skid style landing gear.",
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"text": "Some have either a fixed or retractable wheeled undercarriage.",
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"text": "These offer excellent mobility on paved or short cut grass airfields, surface taxiing, rolling takeoffs or landings or for movement aboard ship.",
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"text": "Surface taxi also consumes a little less fuel than hover taxi or takeoff from an IGE hover, but are more complicated, heavier, and expensive than skid type landing gear.",
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"text": "Smaller, utility helicopters usually use a skid type landing gear For several reasons.",
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"text": "Lightweight.",
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"text": "Inexpensive.",
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"text": "Flexible and can absorb impact of a hard landing or crumple to absorb energy.",
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"text": "Easy to replace if damaged.",
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"text": "Provides a large, stable support for pinnacle or slope landings.",
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"text": "More even distribution of aircraft load for landings in soft or waterlogged fields.",
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"text": "Lends itself better to being fitted with fixed or emergency inflatable floats for over water operations.",
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"text": "Can provide support for personnel flying outside the airframe.",
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"text": "The downsides to skids are",
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"text": "Do not allow the helicopter to be easily moved or towed on the ground; must be fitted with towing dollies or placed on towing trailer.",
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"text": "Are fixed and cannot be retracted and faired, thus adding more drag in flight.",
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"text": "Easier to snag on obstacles and wires during surface operations.",
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"text": "More susceptible to side loads during takeoff and landing, which can cause dynamic rollovers.",
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"text": "Great skill must be used during rolling takeoffs, shallow descent landings or autorotation to keep the aircraft moving in a straight line down the runway to prevent side loads.",
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"text": "The aircraft’s fuselage is shaped primarily to provide the best aerodynamic fairing for the cabin, engine and transmission and aircraft systems; it is not necessarily the most stable platform and does not provide any shock absorption in case of a hard landing or an autorotation landing.",
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"text": "Landing gear is designed to solve that problem.",
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"text": "The siding of the skids is based on a lot of things from the ability to provide solid, stable support on uneven terrain to prevent the onset of potentially deadly ground resonance during a harder than normal landing to offering good ground clearance.",
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"question": "Why can't they just land on the helicopter's floor? If it's for stability, they could still use skids which are shorter than what is commonly used.",
"title": "Why do helicopters have skids?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<helicopter>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/73842",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/9329/Ronen Festinger"
} | 23_44 | [
[
"Helicopters have skids because they absorb the impact on landing. They also provide more stable landing on difficult terrain. Moreover, as helicopters often have equipment fitted to the outside, e.g. cameras, the skids can be used for this. A further advantage is they can be fitted with floats for activities over water. However, not all helicopters use skid-style landing gear.",
"There are many advantages to skids: they are ideal for landing on rough surfaces, they are light, inexpensive, flexible and can absorb impact, easily replaceable, can be fitted to land on water, provide easier landing and more room for equipment appended to the underside of the helicopter and support for personnel. A landing on their belly is often problematic because the belly is not perfectly flat and can often lead to some roll and possibly endanger the helicopter's equipment. Even if it is perfectly flat, the surface on which it has to land will most probably not be. That said, there are in fact helicopters that do not use skids to land."
]
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"The higher the CoG, the wider the landing gear impact points must be."
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[
"There are many advantages to skids: they are ideal for landing on rough surfaces, they are light, inexpensive, flexible and can absorb impact, easily replaceable, can be fitted to land on water, provide easier landing and more room for equipment appended to the underside of the helicopter and support for personnel.",
"A landing on their belly is often problematic because the belly is not perfectly flat and can often lead to some roll and possibly endanger the helicopter's equipment. Even if it is perfectly flat, the surface on which it has to land will most probably not be.",
"There are helicopters that do not use skids to land."
]
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are a number of human-powered aircraft (list here ).",
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"text": "For the Gossamer Albatross , we have",
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"text": "In still air, the required power was on the order of 300 W (0.40 hp), though even mild turbulence made this figure rise rapidly.",
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"text": "As far as top speed: Allen completed the 22.2 mi (35.7 km) crossing in 2 hours and 49 minutes, achieving a top speed of 18 mph (29 km/h) and an average altitude of 5 ft (1.5 m)",
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"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/14931/Eugene Styer",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Sailplanes employ zero horsepower by conventional reckoning, though an alternative definition can be proposed using the component of the aircraft's weight that acts parallel to the airspeed vector as the thrust-like force.",
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"text": "Anyway, the world records for sailplane flight appear to include 2191 km as greatest free distance along a course involving three or fewer turnpoints, and 22657 m as maximum absolute altitude.",
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"text": "Source:",
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"text": "fai.org/page/igc-records OK",
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"text": ", I thought the original question said \"aircraft\"; I now see \"airplane\".",
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"text": "Does \"airplane\" always exclude \"glider\"?",
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"text": "Originally, the \"plane\" in \"airplane\" referred to the \"planing\" action of the wing surface, and had nothing to do with the presence or absence of a motor, though there may be no specific examples of the word historically being used in reference to gliders.",
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"text": "Didn't see the \"no gliders!",
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"text": "\"",
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"text": "when I created this answer-- sorry!",
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"text": "Some self-launching powered hang gliders and powered paragliders/ paramotors intended for soaring flight must be close contenders for the answer to your question, as some of them have rather weak engines and are barely able to climb in the absence of an updraft despite overall light weight.",
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"text": "Even though at 4 x 13kW its max rated power (70hp) is higher than the other answers, Solar Impulse flew almost 5 thousand miles non-stop during close to 5 days.",
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"text": "It did not typically fly anywhere close to its max rated power in order to conserve energy that it would have to spend during the night.",
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"text": "Wikipedia lists the specs as: Maximum speed:",
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"text": "140 km/h (87 mph) Cruise speed: 90 km/h (56 mph) 60 km/h (37 mph) at night to save power Service ceiling:",
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"text": "8,500 m (27,900 ft) with a maximum altitude of 12,000 metres (39,000 ft)",
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"text": "This is of course much higher than the human-powered Gossamer Albatross in Eugene Styer's answer , but the Wright Flyer , \"the first powered, heavier-than-air machine to achieve controlled, sustained flight with a pilot aboard\", used a 12 horsepower gasoline engine which is a bit under 9 kW.",
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"text": "The longest of its 4 flights was 260 m, and it was apparently so light that \"a heavy gust picked up the Flyer and tumbled it end over end, damaging it beyond any hope of quick repair\".",
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"text": "Later versions used more powerful engines.",
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"text": "The lightest remote control airplane I could find is 0.225g (0.01oz).",
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"text": "Wing span 71 mm.",
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"text": "Length 70 mm.",
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"text": "(about 3\") I estimate it used a few hundredths of a watt. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11048403&postcount=1",
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"text": "That was back in 2008 though, so they've probably done better since then.",
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"text": "The twin engined Columbian Cri cri might be a contender: each of the single cylinder piston engines were about 15hp.",
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"text": "Cruising speed is 190km/h.",
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"text": "Wikipedia article",
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"question": "What manned airplanes have achieved flight with the least powerful engines (no gliders!), and what was their top speed? Im sure I've heard of an airplane with an 8hp engine capable of exceeding 120 MPH airspeed",
"title": "What are the least powerful airplanes that ever flew?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<aircraft-design><engine>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/74471",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/31182/Francis L."
} | 23_47 | [
[
"The twin engined Columbian Cri cri might be a contender for the flight with the least power ever: each of the single cylinder piston engines were about 15hp.",
"The main contenders that fulfill the criteria are: the twin engined Columbian Cri cri, a sailplane or the Solar Impulse."
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"The main contenders that fulfill the criteria are: the twin engined Columbian Cri cri, a sailplane or the Solar Impulse."
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"text": "First I have to admit that I have no idea what FAA regulations said about passengers taking part in controlling an airplane in 1989, but I guess it was at least frowned upon, even if the passenger happened to be a pilot.",
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"text": "The United Airlines flight 232 made a stunningly successful \"landing\" at Sioux City airport, much due to the fact that they took an extra crew member from the cabin to control the throttles of their severely disabled aircraft.",
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"text": "Unfortunately 112 people lost their lives as the plane cartwheeled after a very rough touchdown, and one might ask what is so successful about that...",
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"text": "well: 184 people survived a situation that was in subsequent simulations deemed to be impossible to manage.",
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"text": "The throttle operator was a UA training check airman Dennis Edward Fitch, riding as a passenger on this ill-fated flight.",
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"text": "It has been stated in many sources again and again, that without his presence in the cockpit, the outcome would have been much worse, even the worst possible.",
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"text": "It just so happened, that Fitch had been practicing a similar scenario in a simulator after a fatal crash of Japan Airlines flight 123 in 1985.",
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"text": "The reason of that crash was total loss of hydraulics, Fitch wanted to find out if an airliner could be controlled with throttles only.",
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"text": "Luckily, it was somewhat possible.",
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"text": "The rules say to do whatever necessary to ensure safety of flight.",
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"text": "91.3 Responsibility and authority of the pilot in command.",
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"text": "The pilot in command of an aircraft is directly responsible for, and is the final authority as to, the operation of that aircraft.",
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"text": "In an in-flight emergency requiring immediate action, the pilot in command may deviate from any rule of this part to the extent required to meet that emergency.",
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"text": "Each pilot in command who deviates from a rule under paragraph (b) of this section shall, upon the request of the Administrator, send a written report of that deviation to the Administrator.",
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"text": "As pointed out above pilots may deviate from any regulation in the event of an emergency per §91.3(b).",
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"text": "One of the more common events is a civilian aircraft making an emergency diversion and landing at a nearby military airbase, such as this 777 flight which diverted to Erickson AB, Shemaya, AK .",
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"text": "The OP brings up the case of Cactus 1549.",
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"text": "But what Sully and Stiles did in powering up the APU first wasn’t a violation of the rules per se, though I’m sure there are plenty of odious airline sim",
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"text": "check pilots that cut themselves on their overstarched undershirts who would disagree with this.",
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"text": "This even brings up an interesting discussion I once had with a flight instructor examiner I knew who had been a Air Safety adviser to Korean Airlines.",
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"text": "He told me he once conducted a systems discussion with a group of KAL 747 pilots in regards to understanding their systems in an emergency.",
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"text": "The KAL pilot corps at the time apparently handled their pilots in a very regimented and militaristic fashion.",
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"text": "When the chief pilot walked in, they all jumped to their feet and stood at attention, etc.",
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"text": "So this examiner guy walks up to the front of the group of the group and asks them: “Ok, so what is the emergency procedure for an engine fire on a 747-400?”",
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"text": "The entire group barks out the QRH entry for this contingency at the top of their lungs perfectly and in unison.",
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"text": "“Okay.......so what two things do you do in the event of an engine fire if you only have time to do two things?”",
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"text": "Dead silence.",
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"text": "The entire room stares blankly back at him like a second grader at a spelling bee asked to spell ‘photosynthesis’.",
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"text": "OEM approved procedures, standardized general operating practices and legal regulations for aviation are great guideline for safe and reliable operations but they can’t always cover every contingency perfectly.",
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"text": "A fundamental knowledge of your aircraft and it’s systems from a correlation level can come in real handy sometimes if you encounter something serious that’s not been documented.",
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"text": "It’s",
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"text": "something test pilots know all too well, as it can allow them to make very judicious choices on flight test plans and handle unforeseen problems once in the air.",
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"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/15637/Carlo Felicione",
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"text": "In 2017 an MD-83 aborted takeoff above V1.",
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"text": "The pilot was widely criticized for that, which was against a lot of rules and conventional wisdom.",
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"text": "The NTSB report determined that aborting above V1 was the most correct thing to do in this case. https://www.planeandpilotmag.com/article/ntsb-report-how-this-pilot-saved-116-lives/#.XkzGlopOmhA",
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"text": "There have been cases with incorrectly wired controls , with the aircraft doing the opposite action than such a wrongly wired control commands.",
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"text": "Then the narrow rules about how to use the control to achieve intended action must be completely reversed, moving the stick in the opposite direction.",
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"text": "Doing so does not break the wider rules that cover such malfunctions.",
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"text": "But I imagine how difficult is to realize them happening at the first place.",
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"text": "This is the main reason I would never like to have just a robot in the cockpit.",
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"text": "I will note that in maritime law there is the General Prudential Rule which states that avoiding a collision takes precedence over strict adherence to other rules and regulations.",
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"text": "I would have to believe that there are similar provisions in aviation rules.",
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"question": "I wonder if there is an incident that pilots saved the plane or minimized the damage by bending or breaking the rules like Sully? (As it's known Sullenberger started the APU at first which was the 15th thing in QRH.) Thanks in advance.",
"title": "Has any accident been prevented by bending or breaking the rules?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<accident-investigation><crew-resource-management><rules-of-the-air>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/74616",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/46377/Hakan"
} | 23_48 | [
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"The rules say safety is paramount and pilots may deviate from any regulation in the event of an emergency per §91.3(b). There have been a number of crashes averted by bending the rules. They include the United Airlines flight 232 made a stunningly successful \"landing\" at Sioux City airport, much due to the fact that they took an extra crew member from the cabin to control the throttles of their severely disabled aircraft. One of the more common events is a civilian aircraft making an emergency diversion and landing at a nearby military airbase.",
"There have been such instances, like the landing of United Airlines flight 232 where they took an extra crew member to help control the aircraft, civilian airctaft landing urgently at military bases, a case of an MD-83 aborting takeoff above V1, or cases of incorrectly wired controls that need deviation from standard procedure to be operated. However, the main rule, above all else, is that the pilot must take whatever action deemed most efficient for the safety of the flight."
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"There have been such instances, like the landing of United Airlines flight 232 where they took an extra crew member to help control the aircraft, civilian airctaft landing urgently at military bases, a case of an MD-83 aborting takeoff above V1, or cases of incorrectly wired controls that need deviation from standard procedure to be operated.",
"The main rule, above all else, is that the pilot must take whatever action deemed most efficient for the safety of the flight."
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"text": "No, you would need to arrange for customs as you are crossing an international border.",
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"text": "Yes, it is possible to land an airplane in the US at a private airport when you have taken off from a foreign airport.",
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"text": "No, you may not do it legally.",
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"text": "Doing this is a federal crime.",
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"text": "Since you are smuggling something, you may not care about the legality.",
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"text": "When you are eventually caught, you will go to prison.",
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"text": "Your assets will be confiscated by and forfeited to the government.",
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"text": "And once you are released from prison, you will be deported and blacklisted from entering the US ever again.",
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"text": "Your gold will not be returned to you.",
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"text": "It is not worth the risk.",
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"text": "Especially when the gold is worthless unless you can convert it to money.",
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"text": "You can’t do that legally either (more prison time).",
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"text": "Even money gotten through illegal means is forfeited to the government.",
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"text": "No matter from where you takeoff, nor in what country your aircraft is registered, if you cross the US Air Defense Identification Zone, you have to land at an Airport of Entry before proceeding elsewhere.",
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"text": "There are trade laws, aviation laws, customs laws, banking laws, tax laws, Anti-terrorist laws, etc.",
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"text": "that you will be violating if you do not.",
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"text": "In general*, any time people or cargo enter another country, they must do so at a designated Port of Entry, i.e. where customs and immigration officers are stationed.",
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"text": "This is true regardless of whether traveling by land, sea or air.",
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"text": "Trying to enter other than at a PoE is usually a serious crime , and in the case of flying without a proper flight plan, may even get you shot down .",
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"text": "In the US specifically, you can request (for a fee) that these officers meet your flight at an airport other than a designated PoE, which is a really convenient perk for GA pilots.",
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"text": "As far as I know, they will only agree to do this at public airports, and if you ask about a private airport such as your friend's farm, they'll tell you to land at a public airport first to legally enter the country and then continue to the private one as a domestic flight.",
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"text": "(* Open border agreements like Schengen are an obvious exception.)",
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"text": "Think about how your question is fundamentally different from this one: If you have friend in the USA that owns a lot of land that is suitable for landing a plane, and you own a private jet with 2 pilots in Colombia , can you takeoff in private property without notifying anybody on what you have on the plane and where you are going or anything like that and fly to USA and land on the property of your friend?",
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"text": "Is that legal to do?",
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"text": "But would anybody notice that I'm transferring cocaine if the cocaine is hidden",
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"text": "and I put the cocaine there long before the actual travel.",
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"text": "And would I need to arrange customs to come to me?",
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"text": "And how would I do that.",
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"text": "This is just me wondering if this is actually possible.",
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"text": "I'll bet you can answer this question all by yourself without even consulting additional sources.",
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"text": "If not, you can probably put on your Customs and Border Patrol hat and ask yourself: \"What would I think of a covert flight of this nature crossing into my airspace?",
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"text": "It's probably a totally cool, totally legal flight with no contraband on board.",
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"text": "I'm gonna go ahead and do nothing.\"",
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"text": "No, your plan could never succeed.",
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"text": "You could not file a legal flight plan since your plan has no provision for landing at an appropriate port of entry for customs and immigration clearance.",
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"text": "If you attempt to make the flight without filing a flight plan, you would necessarily need to transit the North American ADIZ (Air Defense Identification Zone) .",
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"text": "The map below does not show the Alaska zone, but rest assured it also exists - there is no way to cross into the north american land mass without being detected.",
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"text": "Any aircraft flying in these zones without authorization may be identified as a threat and treated as an enemy aircraft, potentially leading to interception by fighter aircraft.",
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"text": "With no defensible justification for your presence in that airspace you would be treated as a hostile aircraft and dealt with as such. Image Credit.",
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"text": "I'm certain there will be problems with this, because this is very much the way smugglers move goods across a border without letting customs authorities inspect it.",
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"text": "If you cross from international airspace to American, without a flight plan, at the very least you'll be directed to land at a recognized airport for customs, and if you don't respond to attempts at contact, it's possible warplanes might be dispatched to intercept you",
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"text": "-- this could even go as far as a shoot-down, in the worst case.",
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"text": "Even if you \"aren't smuggling,\" if you have anything of value on board, this kind of flight is smuggling.",
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"text": "It will also run afoul of immigration laws, if anyone on board isn't an American citizen (and will be seen as suspicious in that regard even they are).",
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"question": "If you have a friend in the USA who owns a lot of land that is suitable for landing a plane, and you own a private jet with 2 pilots in Norway, can you take off in private property without notifying anybody on what you have on the plane and where you are going or anything like that and fly to the USA and land on the property of your friend? Is that legal to do?",
"title": "Can a private jet take off without notifying anybody and land on private land in another country?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<international><private-jets><legal>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/74771",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/46963/LineGolem"
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"The majority of people believe that it is illegal to pilot a private plane across borders and land on private land rather than a recognised port of entry, for customs and immigration reasons. It is however possible as this is how smugglers move goods around.",
"As far as the question of if it is possible to land the aircraft at a private airport in the US in the manner described is concerned, it is, though it would be entirely illegal. All incoming international flights are required to have a flight plan and pass customs. Failing to do so is a federal crime and would lead to many legal woes. Doing it would also violate immigration laws if the passengers on board are not American citizens."
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"Doing it would violate immigration laws if the passengers on board are not American citizens.",
"No, this is not possible. All incoming international flights are required to have a flight plan and pass customs. Failing to do so is a federal crime and would lead to many legal woes.",
"It is possible to land the aircraft at a private airport in the US in the manner described, though it would be entirely illegal."
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"text": "Your best bet would be an airplane/drone that is built from carbon composite and graphlite rod (pull-truded carbon rod with incredible strength - widely used in sailplane spars) powered by a couple of aviation diesels like the Austro Engine E4 .",
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"text": "The Specific Fuel Consumption of the E4 is .336",
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"text": "Except for similar competing diesels, nothing in any traditional aircraft engine configuration comes close except the old tubro-compound mechanical-monstrosity radials like the R3350 that could get into the high 3s (normal gas piston engines are around .45 lb/hp/hr and turboprops well above that, around .5-.6 lbs/hp/hr).",
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"text": "The E4 is 168 Hp so two would give you 336 HP for take off, and the engine burns 5 US Gal per side at 60% cruise, or 30 lbs per side, so to go 2000 nm, if you can get the thing to cruise at 150kt, you need 130 US Gal capacity plus a VFR reserve, say 140 gal total, or 840 lbs of fuel.",
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"text": "So design an airframe that can haul, say, a thousand pounds of payload with those two engines and 840 lbs of kerosene, and is clean enough to go 150kt, and there you have it.",
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"text": "It's perfectly possible to build piston-engined planes with ranges of 2000 miles or more, for instance many WWII planes like the B-17 and B-29, pre-jet airliners like the Lockheed Constellation, or the Rutan Voyager.",
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"text": "The reason there are few, if any, in service today is that there is no real market.",
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"text": "Jets have taken the long-range commercial market, and pilots of smaller planes generally don't want to go that far without stopping for bathroom breaks.",
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"text": "If you are looking to design an unpiloted plane, the problem becomes even easier.",
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"text": "You should be able to use modern, non-certified engines derived from the automotive market, can fly at efficient speeds, and don't have to worry about breaks.",
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"text": "This is perhaps not going to be a very good answer to the specific question, but the mission you describe would constitute some out-of-the-box thinking.",
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"text": "As John K already suggested, a very light construction, perhaps in the spirit of Rutan Voyager suggested by Jamesqf would be a good starting point.",
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"text": "Large wingspan to get efficient wings would give the chance to use less powerfull and/or exotic engines.",
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"text": "John K's example of Austros is a good one.",
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"text": "In my mind what you should design is a motorglider on steroids.",
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"text": "Relatively large cargo would otherwise require a lot of thrust, but you could compensate with wingspan and 2 or even three lifting surfaces.",
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"text": "Leaving the pilot out would save at least 400 lbs of weight (pilot, seat, controls, gauges and such), plus you would not need any pressurising, so you could fly ballistic profile flights: high power ascents (but not that steep",
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"text": "as exess thrust is not great with full cargo), and the gliding the rest of the way.",
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"text": "You could even feather the props and shut down the engine -> no cruise consumption (piston engines typically are not very efficient when operating in partial load = cruise).",
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"text": "I don't think speed is of essence here, as even a cruise (or in the case I'm proposing, glide) speed of say, 100 kts would be, knowing the infrastructure there , at least ten times faster.",
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"text": "I see one real problem though: landing at destination, automatic or remotely controlled?",
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"text": "If rc, how?",
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"text": "Satellite would be the only aplicable solution, but might prove troublesome with videostream bandwidth, lag etc.",
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"text": "If automatic, oh man the effort of programming relating to all that needs to be taken into account.",
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"text": "So: is dropping the cargo by parachute out of the question?",
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"text": "The main distance limitation for a plane is weight: every extra pound of fuel means one less pound of payload.",
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"text": "Planes can be equipped with \"ferry tanks\" that increase endurance for long open water legs, but then they're bumping up against (or even over) maximum gross weight with just the pilot (no passengers or cargo).",
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"text": "Take the pilot out and you can add more fuel to go even further.",
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"text": "Unless your goal is moving the plane itself, though, having no weight left for payload doesn't really allow anything useful to be accomplished.",
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"text": "Note that aircraft range is often specified for something like 75% power at cruise.",
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"text": "Since drag is proportional to speed squared, flying slower would use a lot less fuel and thus extend your range, which may be fine for a drone that lacks the human need to stop every few hours.",
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"text": "2000 miles with a piston engine has been done more recently - check Wikipedia's entry for the AAI Aerosonde, which crossed the Atlantic (2031 miles) burning only 1.5 US gallons of fuel.",
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"text": "It includes a reference to the later \"Spirit of Butts' Farm\" which did that as well with a total gross weight of 11 pounds / 5 kilograms.",
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"text": "Autopilots are far more capable and small than they were then and often include autoland capability.",
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"text": "What you want to do can be done.",
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"question": "Ok so Im exploring ways to bring cargo and medical supplies to various rural cities in say Africa without relying on ground infrastructure. Just short and cheap runways spread around the continent. It seems any type of VTOL plane wouldn't have the range. Electric is also out. It also seems like piston planes don't have the range, while turbojets are millions of dollars. What about used turbojets? Whats stopping piston engines from flying longer?",
"title": "Can you fly 2000 miles on an engine that costs less than $500k? If so, what type of engine?",
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"question_tags": "<jet-engine><aircraft-performance><engine><airplane>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/74810",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/46981/Aiden Kashi"
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"It's perfectly possible to build piston-engined planes with ranges of 2000 miles or more, for instance many WWII planes like the B-17 and B-29, pre-jet airliners like the Lockheed Constellation, or the Rutan Voyager. It is also possible to use a couple of aviation diesels like the Austro Engine E4. If you are looking to design an unpiloted plane, the problem becomes even easier. Moreover, you should be able to use modern, non-certified engines derived from the automotive market, can fly at efficient speeds, and don't have to worry about breaks.",
"A good solution would be to use carbon composites and graphite, paired with aviation diesels, to design a new airplane or drone. You could also consider designing a light piston-engined construction with large wingspan. The Rutan Voyager or a powerful motorglide might be a good source of inspiration to this end. Finally, autopilots could be a good idea, as they are small and efficient, and offer additional advantages like autoland or the possibility to use non-certified engines."
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"A good solution would be to use carbon composites and graphite, paired with aviation diesels, to design a new airplane or drone.",
"Consider designing a light piston-engined construction with large wingspan. In this context, an autopilot might be easier to build, as you could use non-certified engines. The Rutan Voyager or a powerful motorglide might be a good source of inspiration to this end.",
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"text": "All aircraft are subject to performance changes due to fuel burn, and since weight, lift, thrust and drag are all tied together for every aircraft in the same way the changes scale nicely.",
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"text": "Let's look at some extremes: One of the most interesting examples of this was the Concorde.",
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"text": "Since the Concorde flew ~20K above every one else in the sky in those days it didn't have the same altitude holding restrictions that regular airliners (or any IFR airplane) has.",
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"text": "The Concorde was give a block altitude basically to do what it wanted up around 50,000 feet (ca.",
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"text": "15 km).",
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"text": "Since it burned quite a bit of fuel at Mach 2.1 and gradually became lighter during the flight the pilots let the plane slowly drift up to gain efficiency as well as gliding distance if needed.",
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"text": "The Concorde also used its many fuel tanks to trim the aircraft as well as cool the nose cone.",
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"text": "Fuel burn was closely monitored and constantly pumped around to ensure the aircraft remained in trim.",
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"text": "Even the dinky Piper Archer",
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"text": "I fly is affected by partial tanks.",
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"text": "If I fly the tanks from full to VFR legal reserves, the CG moves forward a full inch.",
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"text": "Granted this does not seem like a lot you will need to trim to compensate for this throughout the flight.",
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"text": "You will also be landing a full 240 LBS lighter which is about 10% of the total weight from takeoff.",
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"text": "If you come in hot and high you can get yourself into trouble.",
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"text": "Yes you can feel it, generally pilots are not going to do “faster” maneuvers but the maximum G load may change ( see your aircraft's POH for more info ).",
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"text": "Any smart pilot should practice flying their aircraft at various fuel loads to understand the differences it makes in performance and handling.",
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"text": "Some aircraft with things like tip tanks or auxiliary tanks even have fuel burn limitations that define where the fuel is to be burned from and in what order, again going from something as small as a Bonanza all the way up to the Concorde as discussed above.",
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"text": "Just how much can the handling change?",
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"text": "Assuming you did your due diligence in pre-flight and calculated your W&B on both ends of the flight accounting for fuel burn to ensure you are within your CG limits",
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"text": "the flight should occur with in the limits of the aircraft's POH and generally speaking within operable limits of the airframe.",
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"text": "FAA certified aircraft have control force limits so even at the extents of the CG range",
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"text": "You will likely notice pitch differences (at either extreme) as well as various performance number differences.",
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"text": "Modern gliders are an interesting data point regarding this.",
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"text": "A competition glider carries water in its wing tanks to increase weight.",
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"text": "This betters performance at high speed, which is essential for competition when conditions provide strong lift.",
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"text": "The pilot can release the water at will, and the tanks can be emptied in a few minutes.",
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"text": "This happens in competition every day, either when you are arriving (to land without the extra weight) or sometimes mid-flight when conditions are worse than expected.",
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"text": "So, taking as an example a Ventus 3: This glider, with pilot included, weighs around 380kg.",
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"text": "It can carry up to 212 litres of water in its wings, for a maximum gross weight of 600kg (it also carries a few litres in the tail for cg purposes).",
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"text": "In summary, the pilot can change the weight of the glider from 600kg to 380 kg in some 4 minutes (meaning a 38% change in weight!).",
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"text": "This makes the change very noticeable.",
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"text": "When empty, the glider is more \"feisty\", both in that it reacts more to turbulence, and in that the commands (the ailerons, especially) are way more effective.",
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"text": "Aircraft performance does change with weight.",
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"text": "Not only does takeoff weight and balance need to be considered, zero-fuel weight and balance does as well.",
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"text": "Many key performance metrics depend on this, like takeoff and landing speeds and distances.",
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"text": "Climb performance and range are also affected.",
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"text": "Inflight, Va (maneuvering speed) is very dependent on weight.",
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"text": "The speed at which you can fly while putting extreme loads on the airframe from abrupt maneuvers or turbulence actually decreases as weight decreases.",
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"text": "Something else that changes with a change in CG and/or weight is your stall speed.",
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"text": "There is a good article from AOPA here: https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2020/march/flight-training-magazine/aerodynamics-stall-speed",
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"text": "Alone in an A36 Bonanza from central Florida to North Central Indiana, I flew on one load of fuel by decreasing the throttle gradually as I burned fuel to maintain a constant airspeed.",
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"text": "The aircraft wanted to speed up as it lost weight.",
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"text": "So, yes the aircraft will fly differently as the fuel is used.",
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"question": "Modern aircraft are capable of carrying a lot of fuel to achieve extra-long range; we're at a point where nearly every pair of destinations can be reached non-stop. Carrying so much fuel imposes limits on take-off and landing weight, so the proportion of fuel to airplane weight is not negligible. I'm wondering how the handling characteristics of airplanes change as the fuel is used up. Do the pilots feel that the airplane is lighter towards the end of the flight? Can they do faster maneuvers with nearly empty fuel tanks?",
"title": "How do handling characteristics depend on flying with a full vs. an empty tank?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<fuel><weight-and-balance><flight-dynamics>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/78869",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/3291/JohnEye"
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"Aircraft performance does change with weight. Pitch differences (at either extreme) are noticeable as well as various performance number differences. All aircraft are subject to performance changes due to fuel burn, and since weight, lift, thrust and drag are all tied together for every aircraft in the same way the changes scale nicely. Many key performance metrics depend on this, like takeoff and landing speeds and distances. Moreover, climb performance and range are also affected.",
"As a general rule, aircraft performance can be affected by weight, including fuel weight. Examples illustrate that, as aircrafts consume fuel, they become lighter, gain efficiency and display pitch differences in various values. Gliders, on the other hand, are designed to carry water for extra weight. This design improves performance at certain speeds, as it makes a stronger lift possible, facilitates aileron operation and stabilizes the glider body. Areas affected by weight change include takeoff and landing, climbing and in-flight. On the same note, it is worth noting that when manoeuvres add load to the airframe, turbulence tends to decrease along with weight, even though aircrafts generally increase their speed when losing weight. "
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"As a general rule, aircraft performance can be affected by weight, including fuel weight.",
"Examples illustrate that, as aircrafts consume fuel, they become lighter, gain efficiency and display pitch differences in various values.",
"Gliders, on the other hand, are designed to carry water for extra weight. This design improves performance at certain speeds, as it makes a stronger lift possible, facilitates aileron operation and stabilizes the glider body.",
"Areas affected by weight change include takeoff and landing, climbing and in-flight. ",
"It is worth noting that when manoeuvres add load to the airframe, turbulence tends to decrease along with weight, even though aircrafts generally increase their speed when losing weight."
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"text": "As far as I know, there is no actual flying boat in use at an airline.",
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"text": "The flying boats that are still in commercial operation are typically used for fighting forest fires or maritime patrol.",
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"text": "This may change in the near future since there are currently at least two flying boats in development that might be used by airlines: Dornier Seastar CD2:",
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"text": "This is a newer model of the previous Seastar , which had its first flight earlier this year:",
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"text": "Dornier Seawings flew its new-generation Seastar amphibian for the first time on 28 March from its base in Oberpfaffenhofen, Germany. [...]",
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"text": "Dornier says the aircraft will be offered in various configurations including cargo, passenger , special missions and VIP transport.",
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"text": "( flightglobal.com , emphasis mine) AVIC",
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"text": ": This is new aircraft developed in China and one of the biggest flying boats ever.",
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"text": "It had its first flight in 2017 and according to Wikipedia is expected to be delivered by 2022, possibly also in a passenger variant: Further variants may be developed for maritime surveillance, resource detection, passenger and cargo transport.",
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"text": "If you are not just interested in pure flying boats, but also floatplanes , then there are many airlines world wide that operate these on regularly scheduled flights.",
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"text": "One of the biggest is Trans Maldivian Airways operating various variants of the DHC-6 Twin Otter.",
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"text": "They operate 55 seaplanes, which according to Wikipedia makes them the biggest seaplane airline: TMA currently operates the world's largest seaplane fleet.",
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"text": "They offer flights to over 80 destinations:",
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"text": "Trans Maldivian Airways currently offers transfer services to more than 80 Maldives resorts, flying over 1 million passengers per year to their holiday hideaways.",
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"text": "( transmaldivian.com )",
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"text": "This is their main terminal at Velena International Airport: (image source: Wikimedia )",
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"text": "Last time I was there (fifteen or so years ago)",
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"text": "there was a thriving commercial air passenger operation, including at least a couple scheduled flights (weekly, I believe, not daily), at the north end of Lake Washington (near Seattle), officially in either Bothell or Woodinville, Washington state (comments reminded me",
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"text": "it's Kenmore Air, in Kenmore, WA).",
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"text": "There were no flying boats in service there, but there were Beavers and Otters on floats.",
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"text": "Beyond that, there are a number of tiny (one or two aircraft)",
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"text": "airlines operating scheduled feeder service in Alaska and northern Canada that operate on floats, because lakes and rivers are much more common in the wilder parts of the sub-Arctic and Arctic than even grass or gravel airstrips.",
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"text": "As long as there's water to land on at both ends, such aircraft are good to go (and some have retractable gear, so they can land on concrete if necessary) -- and if you're starting from a village equidistant from Fairbanks and Nome, these are likely to be your only choices for local service.",
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"text": "The bulk of their revenue is likely from hunting and fishing charters, like any bush operation -- but many of them operate weekly or twice-weekly scheduled flights to a hub terminal.",
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"text": "There is at least one jet flying boat, the Beriev B-200 , in production.",
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"text": "The Wikipedia article gives it a capacity of 72 passengers.",
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"text": "I don't know how many (if any) are employed in an airliner role, though this variant has a \"pressurised and air conditioned cabin allowing transportation of up to 72 passengers.",
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"text": "The passenger variant is the BE-210 shown here at beriev.com Most seem to be employed as water carriers in a firefighting role; it was designed to skim the surface and scoop up water at close to takeoff speed.",
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"text": "Four or five years ago or so, Pacific Coastal Airlines spun off its seaplane division as Wilderness Seaplanes , which flies scheduled service in a fleet of four Grumman Gooses in British Columbia.",
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"text": "Not \"air carrier service\", but Viking Air acquired from Bombardier the type certificates and continues to produce the CL-215, CL-215T, CL-415 and CL-415EAF as an aerial firefighter , an amphibious aircraft.",
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"text": "Again, not \"air carrier service\" but a true flying boat, Coulson Flying Tankers effectively grounded the last Martin Mars water-bomber in 2018.",
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"text": "They are fondly missed.",
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"text": "The following relates to \"Float planes\", rather than \"flying boats or seaplanes\" ...",
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"text": "Viking Air also hold the type certificate for the legendary De Havilland DHC-2 Beaver DHC-3 Otter and DHC-6 Twin Otter .",
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"text": "A refreshed, next-gen specification Twin Otter - series 400 is now back in Production.",
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"text": "From their website, With a fleet of 57 de Havilland Twin Otters, Trans Maldivian Airwaysoperates the largest seaplane operation in the world.",
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"text": "TMA is the airline referenced in @Bianfable 's answer.",
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"text": "NORDIC Seaplanes flies daily between the two largest Danish cities.",
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"question": "Is there anywhere in the world that still offers scheduled air carrier service using flying boat / seaplane types of aircraft - something akin to a proper airliner? Or are they all limited to charters and shuttle-type flights on de Havilland Otters and the like?",
"title": "Are there any remaining flying boat or seaplane airliners in operation?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<airliner><seaplane>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/79432",
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"It seems there are some arelines still operating seaplanes. Four or five years ago or so, Pacific Coastal Airlines spun off its seaplane division as Wilderness Seaplanes , which flies scheduled service in a fleet of four Grumman Gooses in British Columbia. In addition, NORDIC Seaplanes flies daily between the two largest Danish cities.",
"There are conflicting opinions on the subject. Two actual examples of airlines that might still offer regular seaplane service are Pacific Coastal Airlines and NORDIC Seaplanes. No flying boats seem to be currently used in air carrier service."
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"text": "This is real easy, no explanation required: Tell your student to stick their hand out the window of the car driving 25mph in the city and rotate it like an aileron.",
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"text": "Did smaller movements produce larger effects at higher speeds?",
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"text": "Practical examples are typically more effective at driving a point home than a lot of words.",
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"text": "Very simply, because the dynamic pressure drops as you slow down, making all aerodynamic controls more sluggish.",
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"text": "Aileron works by locally increasing the lift of one outboard wing and decreasing the lift of the other, thereby creating a torque or rolling moment.",
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"text": "For simplicity, let's think that for every degree of aileron deflection, there is an associated increase and decrease in the local lift coefficient for TE down aileron and TE up aileron, respectively 1 .",
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"text": "You may remember that the total lift differential is proportional to the lift coefficient, but also to the dynamic pressure.",
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"text": "You may also remember that dynamic pressure is proportional to the square of the true airspeed.",
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"text": "Therefore, as you slow down, even though the lift coefficient differential remains more or less constant for the same aileron action, the total lift differential decreases as a square of the speed, and the same for the rolling moment.",
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"text": "The change in local lift coefficient is not constant across flight regime.",
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"text": "As the AOA increases toward stall, significant nonlinear effect arises.",
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"text": "To make the answer as simple as possible, an aerofoil will increase lift in two ways, either by going faster or increasing the angle of attack.",
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"text": "When the aileron moves up or down",
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"text": "it’s changing the shape of the wing and either increasing or decreasing the angle of attack.",
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"text": "So, if you fly fast just a small aileron deflection will produce the necessary lift to raise the wing.",
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"text": "Conversely, if the aerofoil is going slow the aileron will require a greater deflection to create a larger angle of attack for the same amount of wing movement.",
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"text": "Hence at high speeds the aircraft will feel very responsive and at low speeds will feel unresponsive particularly as it approaches stall speeds.",
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"text": "You should understand this is a very simple overview and there are many other aspects to consider.",
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"text": "The lift that is generated by an aileron at a fixed deflection (e.g. 5 degrees down) is proportional to the volume of air that is deflected downward per unit of time (e.g. per second).",
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"text": "As speed is reduced the volume of air being deflected downward per unit time is reduced so the lift created by the aileron is also reduced and the aileron become less effective.",
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"text": "In the flight envelope you describe, the aileron response is affected by two factors: the change in lift from the movement is related to thespeed of flight.",
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"text": "As the speed reduces, the force diminishes, and, when the wing stalls, airflow over the aileron is substantiallyturbulent and no usable effect results from aileron movement.",
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"text": "This applies equally to other aircraft, not just light trainers.",
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"text": "However, sophisticated fly-by-wire controls are often designed to not allow stalling and prevent the effect from being noticed under normal flight conditions.",
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"text": "why does aileron response decrease ...",
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"text": "from slow flight up to stall.",
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"text": "Yes, controls definitely get more sluggish slowing down from cruise speed to slow flight, due to the reduction of aerodynamic force on their area.",
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"text": "From slow flight to stall, with ailerons, one must be aware of additional effects beyond reduction in airspeed.",
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"text": "Ailerons work by moving one up and one down.",
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"text": "All well and good until one goes to higher angles of attack.",
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"text": "There is a loss of effectiveness for the upturned aileron due to flow separation approaching stall.",
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"text": "This is compensated by increased angle of attack of the downtrend aileron, but it will stall first.",
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"text": "This is the dreaded \"aileron reversal\" that can lead to a spin.",
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"text": "Note that in the PARE spin recovery method, ailerons are nuetral.",
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"text": "From slow flight to stall, use your rudder and turn coordinated to stay safe.",
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"text": "Easy - it's no different than the WHOLE WING exhibiting diminished response at low speeds!",
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"text": "When you pull back on the yoke, that IS because you are getting diminished response from the wing.",
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"text": "The ailerons likewise require more displacement for the same effect at low speeds compared to high speeds.",
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"text": "If the student then can't grasp why the whole wing doesn't work at slow speeds, then you at least have uncovered the level of the student's intuition and understanding!",
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"question": "Can someone phrase the explanation to this in simple words as you would explain to a student?",
"title": "Why does aileron response diminish as speed becomes slower, from slow-flight up to the stall? (In a light trainer)",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<aerodynamics><flight-training><cessna-172><ailerons>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/79924",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/50593/leha007"
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"Very simply, aileron response decreases as you slow down because the dynamic pressure drops as you slow down, making all aerodynamic controls more sluggish. Moreover, there is a loss of effectiveness for the upturned aileron due to flow separation approaching stall. ",
"You might consider using examples to illustrate your point. The aileron response decreases as your speed becomes slower, because dynamic pressure, that is to say the amount of deflected air in simple terms, is reduced and all relevant controls stall. While the aileron angle is aimed at making up for flow separation while slowing down, the effect is not completely diminished. "
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"You might consider using examples to illustrate your point.",
"The aileron response decreases as your speed becomes slower, because dynamic pressure, that is to say the amount of deflected air in simple terms, is reduced and all relevant controls stall.",
"While the aileron angle is aimed at making up for flow separation while slowing down, the effect is not completely diminished. "
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"sents": [
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"text": "By putting the guns on the side, the gunner can direct a continuous stream of bullets at the intended target for as long as the pilot wishes to continue circling it.",
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"text": "If the guns were belly-mounted, the pilot would have to make multiple passes at the target zone from different directions, with long pauses between them- long enough for the enemy soldiers to reposition themselves and escape.",
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"text": "The C130 is a cargo aircraft.",
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"text": "The AC130 is the airframe converted for use as a gunship, of which there are several variants.",
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"text": "Purpose built aircraft usually integrate guns into the wings (fighters) or fuselage (A10).",
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"text": "WW2 bombers like the Flying Fortress worked more like the AC130, and had gunners in various places including a belly mounted turret.",
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"text": "The low load floor of a cargo aircraft precludes placement of guns there.",
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"text": "Additionally, the AC130 carries multiple guns .",
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"text": "7.62 Minigun, 25mm Gatling gun, 40mm Bofors cannon, and 105mm howitzer have all been used.",
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"text": "Same side placement means they can all be used on one target.",
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"text": "The original concept of the AC-130 gunship was to loiter over an area for an extended period of time in support of ground troops.",
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"text": "It provides close air support when precision is needed instead of indiscriminate strafing runs of fast movers like F-4s and other jets.",
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"text": "Using a ground reference maneuver called turns on pylons and pivotal altitude keeps one side of the gunship perpetually aligned with a target on the ground as the aircraft circles it.",
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"text": "You can find more detail on the Smithsonian Channel",
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"text": "show Air Warriors .",
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"text": "Because the AC-130 is an airplane, not a helicopter, the only way to \"hover\" over a target is to fly in a circle around the target.",
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"text": "This is called \"loitering\".",
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"text": "This is the primary use-case for the AC-130: it's basically a flying artillery position, not a flying tank.",
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"text": "Having guns point downwards will have the guns point away from the target (due to banking)",
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"text": "Making it unsuitable to be used as a flying artillery position and forcing it to behave like a bomber (flying, reusable \"bullet/shell\"*).",
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"text": "I think you've got this the wrong way round - you don't fly in circles because the guns are on the side; the guns are on the side because you have to fly in circles.",
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"text": "The only way to get a fixed-wing aircraft to loiter over a particular spot is for it to fly in a circle.",
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"text": "To do this you have to bank",
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"text": "the aircraft (i.e., tilt it on its side).",
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"text": "If you do this, you automatically present the side of the aircraft to the target, so it's the natural place to position your guns.",
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"text": "If you put them on the belly, you'd have to then aim them to the side - as far as they would go.",
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"text": "This side-firing strategy grew out of a technique developed by the British Chindits in Burma in WW2.",
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"text": "The planes could not land in the jungle, so flew tight orbits over a clearing and lowered supplies on a rope.",
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"text": "In the Vietnam War, the Americans had the idea of replacing the rope with a line of fire and the gunship was born.",
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"question": "Why must the guns of the AC-130 be on the side forcing the plane to circle the target. Would it not be more practical to have the guns underneath the plane shooting downwards?",
"title": "Why are the guns on the AC-130 not mounted on the underside of the aircraft?",
"forum": "aviation.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<aircraft-design><military><c-130>",
"link": "aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/80627",
"author": "aviation.stackexchange.com/users/52184/Danny"
} | 24_5 | [
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"If the guns were belly-mounted, the pilot would have to make multiple passes at the target zone from different directions, with long pauses between them- long enough for the enemy soldiers to reposition themselves and escape. Because the AC-130 is an airplane, not a helicopter, the only way to \"hover\" over a target is to fly in a circle around the target. iin fact, purpose built aircraft usually integrate guns into the wings (fighters) or fuselage (A10).",
"Mounting the guns on the underside of the aircraft would have them point towards the ground and away from the enemy. In this context, the pilot would need to approach the target from many directions. The AC-130 in particular is specially designed to mount guns on the side, aiming to keep them aligned with the target while flying."
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"Mounting the guns on the underside of the aircraft would have them point towards the ground and away from the enemy. In this context, the pilot would need to approach the target from many directions.",
"The AC-130 is specially designed to mount guns on the side, aiming to keep them aligned with the target while flying."
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"text": "Wikipedia article on \"offside\" is very comprehensive and largely based on the official IFAB Laws of the Game.",
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"text": "From the article, what it is: Offside is a law in football which states that if a player is in an offside position when the ball is touched or played by a teammate, he may not become actively involved in the play.",
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"text": "A player is in an offside position if he is closer to the opponent's goal line than both the ball and the second-to-last defender (which is usually the last outfield player), but only if the player is on his opponent's half of the pitch.",
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"text": "How it is officiated: In enforcing this rule, the referee depends greatly on an assistant referee, who generally keeps in line with the second-to-last defender, the ball, or the halfway line, whichever is closer to the goal line of his relevant end.",
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"text": "An assistant referee signals that an offside offence has occurred by first raising his or her flag upright without movement and then, when acknowledged by the referee, by raising his or her flag in a manner that signifies the location of the offence",
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"text": "So in my own simple words, you determine an offside by:",
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"text": "At the time when the ball is played (pass or kick down the field) note where the second last defender (usually the last defender as the goalkeeper is usually furthest back of any, but not always!)",
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"text": "of the defending team is and where is the player(s) of the offending team (who are involved in the play*)",
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"text": "are further down the field from the ball",
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"text": "Draw a line parallel to the base line (goal line) of the pitch through the said players",
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"text": "If you see that the line going through an offending player who is about to receive the ball is closer to the goal than the line going through the last defender, and that line is in the defending half, then it is an offside. by \"involved in the play\" we mean that they are likely to either receive the ball as a result of the pass in question or are able to influence the outcome of the play in some other way.",
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"text": "A player would not be considered involved if he is on the other side of the pitch with the ball going away from him.",
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"text": "Refer to the Laws of the Game for more info.",
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"text": "Notice that there are a few exceptions when someone can be or not be offside.",
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"text": "When a ball is brought back into play after it left the pitch, one can never be offside.",
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"text": "So, one can never be offside after directly receiving a ball from a throw-in, goal kick, corner kick or a kick off (of which the latter two are rather trivial).",
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"text": "From a (indirect) free kick one can be called offside, since the ball had not left the pitch.",
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"text": "Suppose someone shoots for goal while his teammate is in offside position.",
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"text": "When the ball then returns from the post, the bar or even the goalkeeper and comes in the possession of the teammate, he is still offside.",
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"text": "Offside is not bounded by the lines of the pitch.",
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"text": "So, one can still be offside or prevent an opponent from being offside while being out of play.",
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"text": "See gbianchi's answer to this relevant question .",
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"text": "A Picture is worth thousand words!",
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"text": "Hope this helps you understand",
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"text": "I've noticed that football players often talk about being level with the second last defender; but the FIFA offside rule is now much more precise.",
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"text": "At the instant the ball leaves the attacking player the offside vertical plane is fixed at the part of the second defender (other than his arms) which is closest to the goal line.",
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"text": "At that instant, if any part of another attacking player has any part of their body (except the arms)",
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"text": "beyond that plain they are potentially offside.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A couple of quick additions, which I have not seen mentioned in previous answers (it's late and I am very tired",
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"text": "so I might have missed, if that's the case I'll remove this answer)",
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"text": "There is a scenarios which might be confusing; a player is not off-side if; beyond the second lass defender but the pass to him comes from a team mate that is further ahead of him i.e. if the pass is backwards (similar to rugby)",
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"text": "There is a pretty nice guide which explains the concept in detail, with illustrations.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A bit stupid to make this an answer",
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"text": "but it's not yet (completely correct) on here.",
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"text": "And I can not comment yet, so here goes:",
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"text": "In addition to posdef's answer: you can be in an offside position if a player passes backwards as much as with a forward pass.",
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"text": "As long as the player stays behind his teammate it does not matter in which direction the pass is given.",
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"text": "But if he is in front of his teammate and gets the pass played at him in backward direction he is still in an offside position.",
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"text": "I used to help ref soccer games when I was younger and the way I was taught to call the off-sides penalty was that if the player on offense was beyond the last defender (goalie doesn't count obviously) before the ball was also beyond the last defender, then the player is off-sides.",
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"text": "Some people (myself included) think the way it should be called is that the player on offense needs to be even with the defender, but should be allowed to pursue the ball as soon as it is passed to them, regardless of their position relative to the other teams defensive players.",
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"text": "In other words - let one players speed and instinct give them an advantage - rather than a penalty.",
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"question": "The offside rule on the pitch is often unclear and called suddenly. How do I know if a player is offside?",
"title": "How is offside determined in football?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<football><rules><officiating>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/3",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/6/wax eagle"
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"A player is in an offside position if he is closer to the opponent's goal line than both the ball and the second-to-last defender (which is usually the last outfield player), but only if the player is on his opponent's half of the pitch. ",
"Football defines offside as the position of a player closer to the opposing goal post than the ball and the other team's last defender, not including the goalkeeper. Any player in an offside position should not participate in the game actively. Offside may apply for indirect kicks, both for forward and backward passes."
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"Football defines offside as the position of a player closer to the opposing goal post than the ball and the other team's last defender, not including the goalkeeper. Any player in an offside position should not participate in the game actively. ",
"Offside may apply for indirect kicks, both for forward and backward passes."
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"sents": [
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"text": "This is mostly to encourage more at bats to end with a ball in play.",
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"text": "Baseball is most exciting when a batter can put a ball in play.",
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"text": "It also gives the batter a slight advantage in that he can continue to foul pitches that he cannot achieve solid contact with and \"keep himself alive.",
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"text": "This balances the pitcher's competitive advantage of knowing where the ball is going, how fast its traveling and what kind of pitch is being thrown.",
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"text": "In 0 and 1 strike counts the strike on a foul rule exists to advance the count and to speed up the game.",
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"text": "Advancing the count in this case serves to add drama and keeps the batter from engaging in a long series of foul offs with no consequence.",
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"text": "There are however 3 situations in which a foul ball can result in an out. with 2 strikes any foul bunt attempt will result in a strikeout.",
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"text": "with 2 strikes any foul tip that is caught by the catcher will result in a strikeout.",
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"text": "in any count a ball that is fouled and caught by a fielder is a foul out.",
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"text": "Basically the rule exists to foster more and better competition in the sport.",
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"text": "Sorry, I don't have a reference for this, but we studied this in Game Theory: statistically matching the outcome of equal opponents.",
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"text": "When you match any two opponents of absolutely equal skill, the contest should end a stalemate (i.e. the rules should not give advantage to one over the other).",
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"text": "In baseball, if a hypothetically \"perfect\" pitcher could throw every pitch at the outside corner of the strike zone, it is very difficult to hit the ball in play.",
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"text": "Even the best batter is at a statistical disadvantage in that perfectly-matched contest.",
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"text": "So, they make it so the batter doesn't have to hit the ball in bounds to keep the engagement in play — they need only make contact with the ball to keep from being called out.",
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"text": "That \"good enough to try again\" rule keeps the competition in better balance without inadvertently giving advantage of one player over the other because of an unbalanced rule.",
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"text": "The MLB's Official Baseball Rules states in Rule 10.15: 10.15 STRIKEOUTS",
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"text": "A strikeout is a statistic credited to a pitcher and charged to a batter when the umpire calls three strikes on a batter, as set forth in this Rule 10.15.",
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"text": "(a)",
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"text": "The official scorer shall score a strikeout whenever a batter: is put out by a third strike caught by the catcher; is put out by a third strike not caught when there is a runner on first before two are out; becomes a runner because a third strike is not caught; or bunts foul on third strike, unless such bunt on third strike results in a foul fly caught by any fielder, in which case the official scorer shall not score a strikeout and shall credit the fielder who catches such foul fly with a putout.",
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"text": "In general, on any given at-bat the pitcher already has an advantage over hitters - on average a batter succeeds less than 40% of the time at the major league level.",
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"text": "As wax eagle notes, this rule gives the batter small advantage to stay alive.",
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"text": "A foul ball is an intermediate result between a \"strike\" (a total miss) and a \"fair ball\" (one that goes into play).",
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"text": "Logically, a foul ball should be scored in an intermediate fashion between a strike and a fair ball as well.",
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"text": "One way of doing this is to count \"half\" strikes for a foul ball.",
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"text": "That would cause a certain amount of game confusion keeping track of these \"half\" strikes.",
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"text": "Another way of achieving a comparable, and equitable, result is to award the first two foul balls in an at bat as strikes to the pitcher, and the remaining ones as \"free\" shots to the batter.",
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"text": "In practice, it would mean that about half the foul balls are counted as strikes, and about half (after the second one) are not.",
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"text": "In theory, it means the that \"burden of proof\" is on the hitter to put the ball in play on the first two fouls, but for the third strike, the \"burden of proof\" is on the pitcher to get a \"full\" (not a foul, or \"half\") strike.",
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"text": "It's not unfair for the pitcher to have foul balls recorded as strikes, while the batter is not put out.",
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"text": "All contacted balls (plus called strikes) are strikes for the pitcher.",
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"text": "That includes \"fair balls\" that become hits, or outs, as well as foul balls, whether or not they become \"strikes\" for the batter.",
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"text": "The reason this rule exists is because in the early days of baseball, players would intentionally bunt foul to wear the opposing pitcher down.",
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"text": "A classic example of this is \"King\" Kelly of the Chicago White Stockings (precursor to our modern day Cubs).",
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"text": "King Kelly was notorious for bunting foul in order to wear down a pitcher and eventually get balls leading to a walk.",
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"text": "Back in those days, foul balls were not strikes.",
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"text": "The rules of baseball had to be changed because of this strategy.",
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"text": "For more information on King Kelly, read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_Kelly",
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"question": "From the Wikipedia entry for foul ball A strike is issued for the batter if he had fewer than two strikes ...A strike is, however, recorded for the pitcher for every foul ball thebatter hits, regardless of the count. Why isn´t the batter struck out if he hits a foul ball while he already has two strikes? Why is this situation different than if he has zero or one strikes?",
"title": "Why does a foul ball not count as a third strike?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
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"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/119",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/110/Fillet"
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"Basically the rule exists to foster more and better competition in the sport. in the early days of baseball, players would intentionally bunt foul to wear the opposing pitcher down. Advancing the count in this case serves to add drama and keeps the batter from engaging in a long series of foul offs with no consequence. ",
"This practice aims at engaging the ball more and adding drama and interest to the game. From a technical standpoint, a foul ball is not counted as a third strike as a means of giving the batter an advantage against the pitcher, who knows where the ball is headed, and preventing fouls. This practice fosters fair play and healthy competition. This statically balances the chances of two equal opponents in unequal positions."
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"This practice aims at engaging the ball more and adding drama and interest to the game.",
"From a technical standpoint, a foul ball is not counted as a third strike as a means of giving the batter an advantage against the pitcher, who knows where the ball is headed, and preventing fouls. This practice fosters fair play and healthy competition.",
"This statically balances the chances of two equal opponents in unequal positions."
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"text": "The fielding captain decides from which end he wants to start the match and informs the batsmen who then decides who will face the first ball.",
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"text": "Usually this is decided by the preference of the bowler who is going to bowl the first over.",
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"text": "There is nothing in the laws to govern this point.",
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"text": "Most competitions have local rules to cover points where the laws aren't always clear (e.g. number of overs, time limits and so on).",
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"text": "So they might wish to define the starting end (or - by induction - the finishing end of a limited overs game): if so, those responsible for the rules of that competition may wish to prescribe.",
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"text": "(Note that in most indoor versions of the game, playing in moderately large gymnasia, all the bowling is done from one end, with the batsmen changing ends at the completion of each over).",
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"text": "Certainly in practice the fielding captain will nominate his bowler.",
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"text": "Regular bowlers familiar with a ground will usually have a preferred end from which they wish to deliver, and it would be wrong for the laws to override the captain's wishes without good reason.",
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"text": "Similarly some batting openers like to take the first ball and will switch over if the senior man has a preference.",
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"text": "Certainly the laws are silent on what should happen in a dispute.",
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"text": "Suppose the fielding captain wants Bowler A to bowl the first ball to Batsman Z, but batsman Y wants to face him.",
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"text": "Law 42.2 states that the umpires are sole judges of fair and unfair play, so they would intervene if they felt that either side was trying to manipulate a particular striker to face (or not face) the first ball.",
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"text": "Reading between the lines of the law, the batsmen's wishes will have precedence, because if they have selected ends, the fielding side would be guilty of time wasting if they then decided to change the identity of the bowler (see Laws 42.9 fielding side & 42.10 - batsmen wasting time) or the end from which he bowled.",
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"text": "In such a situation most umpires would tell the fielding captain to get on with it.",
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"text": "The batsmen have the thinner end of this particular wedge, because the fielding captain can always switch his bowling around in a manner which he decides will best irritate and perplex them.",
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"text": "In practice the one of the opening pair who plans on taking the first ball will check with the umpires/fielding captain who is bowling and from which end; a refusal to disclose is pretty much unheard of.",
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"text": "I am by no means a cricket expert, but this page seems to suggest that the bowler determines the bowling end based on his technique, preference and variations of an individual pitch.",
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"text": "Depending upon the variations in pitch the bowler chooses his end.",
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"text": "Since the team who bowls first is determined by the captain who wins the coin toss , it seems that there could conceivably be a considerable a strategic advantage to winning the coin toss, choosing to bat second and allowing your bowler to choose his end.",
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"text": "The senior bowler or the bowler who starts first (in some cases) will get their choice first.",
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"text": "The fielding captain or the bowler who balls the 1st over of the match decides it.",
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"text": "The umpires do not explicitly say anything about the end which the game play starts.",
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"text": "Maybe the people who wrote the rule book might have thought this as a Minor part of the Game.",
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"text": "Quoting Bill Frindall, aka the Bearded Wonder from this BBC article .",
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"text": "At the start of each innings of a match the fielding captain decides from which end play will begin.",
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"text": "When they have decided their individual preference of ends, the captain then decides which bowler he wants to open with and that will determine his choice of end.",
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"text": "So, preference of opening bowlers will help the fielding captain determine from which end play will begin.",
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"text": "It is decided by fielding side captain and the bowler himself.",
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"text": "Few key points which come into the consideration while a bowler chooses an end are:-",
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"text": "The flow of wind:- which helps a swing bowler.",
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"text": "Both helps in the movement of the ball a lot.",
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"text": "Longest side of the field:-",
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"text": "normally we see this when a spinner starts the attack.",
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"text": "The fielding side captain usually opt for longest side boundary to be on the leg side of a right-handed batsman.",
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"text": "Sometimes, the grass covering on a pitch varies from one end to another.",
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"text": "In this case, the fast-bowler chooses the end with grass covering to begin the attack(I am considering that the best bowler of the team will ball the first over).",
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"text": "Superstition:- Few bowlers are there who are superstitious, they choose an end which is away from pavilion or some any other mark.",
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"text": "more form icc world cup :-",
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"question": "In cricket, how is it decided from which end to start the match? Is this a per-ground convention, a decision of the umpires, or either of the captains? Is each innings necessarily started from the same end?",
"title": "In cricket, how is it decided from which end to start the match?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<cricket>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/184",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/27/Peter Eisentraut"
} | 24_8 | [
[
"At the start of each innings of a match the fielding captain decides from which end play will begin. He usually makes this choice in collaboration with his opening bowlers. The senior bowler or the bowler who starts first (in some cases) will get their choice first. ",
"The decision from which end to start the match usually lies wit the fielding captain, who usually confers with the first or most senior bowler on the matter. There are no specific regulations on this issue, even for disputes, which however are rare. Local rules may apply. One of the parameters considered is the direction of the wind. Less relevant factors include the longest field side, the amount of grass or superstitions. "
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"The decision from which end to start the match usually lies wit the fielding captain, who usually confers with the first or most senior bowler on the matter.",
"There are no specific regulations on this issue, even for disputes, which however are rare. Local rules may apply.",
"One of the parameters considered is the direction of the wind.",
"Less relevant factors include the longest field side, the amount of grass or superstitions."
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"text": "Chris McDougal , author of Born to Run, a book that will make you want to go run immediately and properly, “Imagine your kid is running into the street and you have to sprint after her in bare feet.",
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"text": "You’d automatically lock into perfect form —",
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"text": "you’d be up on your forefeet, with your back erect, head steady, arms high, elbows driving, and feet touching down quickly on the forefoot and kicking back toward your butt.”",
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"text": "And further, I hope this article will give lots of knowledge about running properly .",
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"text": "First of all congratulations with your milestone!",
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"text": "It feels great to be running.",
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"text": "If you have 6 months of running in your legs now, you probably don't have the worst technique, because then you would have been injured already :=)",
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"text": "If you haven't done so much running in your life before, and never played any sports like football, I think I would have focused on other things before landing on your forefoot.",
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"text": "Focus rather on landing your feet at the center of your gravity and running relaxed with a slightly lean-forward angle.",
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"text": "(Over focusing on forefeet landing almost killed my legs)",
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"text": "Here is a good video of a guy who improves his technique.",
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"text": "The most important thing is that you don't skip your running exercises, regardless of technique!",
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"text": "People often forget that running correctly, is actually quite hard.",
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"text": "Most people that ran a lot during childhood, get it more or less right, but if your the type that never really has run a lot, some instruction can be very helpful.",
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"text": "Internet guides, articles and so on, are good, but I would probably look to your local atletic club where they have competition +800 meter runners and get some lessons there.",
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"text": "You don't have to join the club, but get 3-4 lessons, come back in some months and get some follow-up lessons.",
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"text": "A very good video that explains in detail a good posture in running:",
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"text": "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tx6x2cD6Y8Q .",
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"text": "I used it myself to improve my technique.",
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"text": "You'll find in there all the key elements.",
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"text": "Of course, if you go for trail running, things complicate a little bit.",
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"text": "Responding to several of the answers here: running barefoot may be a fad - and may even work for some minority of the population - but one should be careful and informed if inclined to attempt it.",
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"text": "Careful studies have shown downsides to running barefoot in terms of sacrificing speed/performance and distribution of stress on the foot.",
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"text": "An alternative may be to wear rather minimalistic shoes.",
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"text": "How minimalistic you may go would be very specific to you/your feet.",
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"text": "Consider that having slightly more weight but having the support you really need will go a long way towards avoiding injuries.",
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"text": "As far as your form: it would make sense to be evaluated by a running coach.",
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"text": "They can give you tips on areas you might be able to tweak.",
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"question": "I have about 6 months running regularly, about 1–2 times per week. Today I ran 14 km (about 8 miles) — a milestone for me! I feel great and I don't want to stop, but I don't know if I'm doing properly or not. I don't want to get injured or something just for not asking. How can I tell if my running technique is correct?",
"title": "How can I tell if I'm running properly",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<running><technique>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/339",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/213/OscarRyz"
} | 24_10 | [
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"S2: Internet guides, articles and so on, are good, but it is probably a good idea to look to your local atletic club where they have competition +800 meter runners and get some lessons there. When running, it is good to focus rather on landing your feet at the center of your gravity and running relaxed with a slightly lean-forward angle. However, the most important thing is not skipping your running exercises, regardless of technique!",
"Landing at your center of gravity and adopting a forward angle while running are key to improving your technique. However, regular practice is perhaps more important than form. You are advised to take some running lessons, possibly at a local club."
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"text": "Yes, it is LEGAL to switch racket \"handed-ness\" during play.",
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"text": "From the USTA web site : Q. I am a left-handed tennis player.",
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"text": "During play, I have found that I can hit the tennis ball almost as well with my right hand as I do with my left.",
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"text": "Do USTA rules forbid players to switch hands during play?",
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"text": "A.",
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"text": "No.",
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"text": "In fact, three-time USTA national champion Marty Devlin of Trenton, NJ has employed this “two forehands” style since he started playing tennis.",
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"text": "The old joke when people were preparing to play Marty was to hit to his backhand.",
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"text": "Also, I have cousins in the Miami area who have played tennis with Jai alai players who will switch handed-ness frequently even during the same point / rally.",
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"text": "I know that in tennis you are allowed to use either hand to hit the ball with the racquet during any point, set or match.",
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"text": "You may not use more than one racquet during any single point, though (though you are allowed to switch racquets between points).",
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"text": "And racquet throwing (for the purpose of hitting the ball) is not allowed - the racquet must be in your hand at the point of contact or you lose the point.",
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"text": "It is perfectly legal though, between shots, to drop the racquet and pick it back up and continue the point.",
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"text": "In tennis, rule #24, which covers all the scenarios in which a player loses a point, does not forbid a player from switching the hand that holds the racket.",
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"text": "24.",
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"text": "PLAYER LOSES POINT",
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"text": "The point is lost if: a. The player serves two consecutive faults; or b. The player does not return the ball in play before it bounces twice consecutively; or c.",
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"text": "The player returns the ball in play so that, before it bounces, it hits a permanentfixture; or",
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"text": "e. The receiver returns the ser vice before it bounces; or f.",
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"text": "The player deliberately carries or catches the ball in play on the racket or deliberately touches it with the racket more than once; or g. The player or the racket, whether in the player’s hand or not, or anythingwhich the player is wearing or carrying touches the net, net posts/singlessticks, cord or metal cable, strap or band, or the opponent’s court at any timewhile the ball is in play; or h. The player hits the ball before it has passed the net; or i.",
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"text": "The ball in play touches the player or anything that the player is wearing orcarrying, except the racket; or j.",
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"text": "The ball in play touches the racket when the player is not holding it; or k. The player deliberately and materially changes the shape of the racket whenthe ball is in play; or",
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"text": "l. In doubles, both players touch the ball when returning it.",
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"text": "To address your second question: Rule #24.j.",
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"text": "states if the ball in play touches the racket when the player is not holding it, the player loses the point.",
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"text": "USTA Regulations IV.D. Table 17 provides an official with guidelines on when to assess a penalty for racket abuse.",
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"text": "The guidelines state an official should always penalize throwing a racket that, even inadvertently, strikes a person.",
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"text": "The guidelines state an official should generally penalize: Throwing a racket into the fence or net",
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"text": "Throwing a racket in anger or in any manner that could or does endanger any person or that damages any part of the court surface or equipment Breaking a racket",
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"text": "The guidelines state an official should sometimes penalize: Tossing a racket into the air",
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"text": "Tossing a racket at the player’s bag Bouncing a racket on the court",
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"text": "The complete Friend at Court can be read here.",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/379/Richard Krajunus",
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"text": "It is perfectly legal in table tennis to change the racket to other hand during a point.",
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"text": "Though uncommon and extremely difficult, it does provide a few exciting moments for the spectators.",
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"text": "ITTF has compiled a video capturing these exciting moments.",
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"text": "And if it is legal for a point, it should be legal for a set and a match as well.",
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"text": "Regarding squash, it is perfectly alright to switch your hands while playing a shot.",
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"text": "You can use both your hands too.",
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"text": "Here is a video which shows that it is allowed.",
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"question": "Can you hit with different hands during the same point? set? match? Also, is racket throwing authorised?",
"title": "Is it legal in racket sports to pass the racket from one hand to the other?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<rules><tennis><table-tennis><racket><squash>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/480",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/286/Benjamin Crouzier"
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[
"it is LEGAL to switch racket \"handed-ness\" during play. In tennis, rule #24, which covers all the scenarios in which a player loses a point, does not forbid a player from switching the hand that holds the racket. Moreover, it is perfectly legal in table tennis to change the racket to other hand during a point. Furthermore, in squash, it is perfectly alright to switch your hands while playing a shot.",
"In tennis it is allowed to pass the racket from one hand to the other, as well as to use either hand. Switching hands when holding a racket is also allowed in squash."
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"In tennis it is allowed to pass the racket from one hand to the other, as well as to use either hand.",
"Switching hands when holding a racket is allowed in squash."
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"sents": [
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"text": "How much are you kicking?",
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"text": "Try holding a flutterboard/kickboard/buoy between your legs and continuing the arm motion of front crawl.",
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"text": "This does two things.",
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"text": "Removes the leg muscles from the equation Keeps your legs up, which makes swimming MUCH easier.",
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"text": "The main trick in efficient swimming is to learn to swim downhill.",
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"text": "You want to 'Press the Buoy' which is push your chest (full of air) down, and use it as leverage to get your legs higher.",
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"text": "You sort of eventually end up swimming downhill a bit.",
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"text": "Another trick is to tuck your chin into your chest, imagining you are pulling your neck and spine far enough to tug your legs up.",
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"text": "(Its just a trick to teach you to lean forward and press the buoy, but the image works).",
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"text": "If you try to feel yourself pulling your legs up by your chin it can be effective.",
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"text": "Basically these are approaches to being more efficient.",
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"text": "This might seem a stupid question, but are you breathing out when your head is underwater?",
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"text": "Most swimmers that I see struggling to catch their breath are holding their breath when their head is in the water, and then trying to both breathe out and in when they turn their head above water.",
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"text": "There's not enough time to do both in crawl and they inevitably struggle to catch their breath, as you've got to breathe out before you can breathe in.",
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"text": "A good bet is that this is probably caused by being nervous, and you might be hyperventilating.",
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"text": "Given your fitness level, there's probably not a physical reason for getting out of breath - and I bet your breath very quickly returns to normal when you grab the side of the pool.",
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"text": "The good news is that this is 100% fixable - and you've already taken a big step: recognizing that there is a problem.",
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"text": "Time in the water, and maybe some coaching will quickly bring up your experience level, and your confidence, which should smooth out those nerves.",
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"text": "When I started swimming seriously, about 4 years ago, I struggled with exactly the same problem .",
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"text": "It took me a long time to break the 100m barrier for front crawl , doing bi-lateral breathing.",
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"text": "Uni-lateral breathing was a little better",
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"text": "but I still struggled with a sensation of panic and being out of breath.",
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"text": "Once I had broken the 100m limit, suddenly it became possible to go much farther, as if there is a transition between how I would breath normally on land and how I needed to breath whilst swimming.",
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"text": "I still feel a slight pinch during training warm-up at this point, as if my lungs 'change gear'.",
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"text": "To beat the limit",
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"text": "I : slowed my swimming to a very gentle pace so as to be as relaxed as possible repeated 50m swims at first, with a break between each to recover, then 100m swims with a break eventually",
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"text": ", I felt I could attempt to go past the 100m and try for 150m Once I was getting to 150m, I very quickly made it to 200, 300 etc.",
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"text": "One of the key things that helped me was to beat the barrier",
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"text": "was expelling 50% of each breath immediately after inhaling, ie.",
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"text": "as my face re-entered the water, I already started to breath out.",
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"text": "The remainder of the air I slowly breathed out, through nose and mouth simultaneously, during the time my face remained under water, such that after 3 strokes it was all gone and ready for the next inhale.",
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"text": "As others have indicated here, breathing out is very important; when swimming you should be either breathing in or out but not holding your breath.",
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"text": "My coach explained the panicy feeling you get as being the need to expel the C0-2 from your lungs following breathing in, which is not something you'd instinctively think to do.",
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"text": "I'm in a similar situation, albeit I only run half-marathons and bike up to 60km.",
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"text": "When I started swimming I had the exact same problem, that I couldn't breathe according to what felt a good swim effort.",
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"text": "In the end I relaxed my swim speed as well as allowed my self to breathe every time I pulled back with an arm.",
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"text": "I really focused on my breath and feeling good in the water.",
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"text": "Everything else was secondary to being able to breathe calmly.",
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"text": "I train in a group, and before I would have to take a break every 50m and wait till my breathing came from a frantic gasping to a relaxed in-/exhale as while running.",
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"text": "After the change I swam slower, but could actually manage 1h30 of training, where previously I would be at the end of my strength after 30min.",
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"text": "Now, a few months later I can keep up with my group, and I breathe every 2 arm pulls, sometimes every 3 to switch breathing sides.",
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] | {
"question": "I am now starting to learn how to swim and have found that I have trouble swimming with my head in the water. Although I breathe every 1 or 2 strokes (front crawl) I found that my heart rate rises pretty high and soon I found myself gasping for air. I am not out of shape; I run marathons and do long MTB races (80km) so I thought I can control my breathing during effort, but this seems a different kind of challenge.",
"title": "Why do I get out of breath so quickly when swimming?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<swimming><technique>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/548",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/28/Gabriel Solomon"
} | 24_12 | [
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"Relaxing in the water seems to be the key to improving breathing when swimming. Techniques that may help include spending more time in the water, slowing the swimming speed until you get the breathing right and using flutterboards to help perfect the arm stroke and breathing technique.",
"There are a number of techniques to increase your tolerance. You could try swimming with your hands only, practice downhill swimming, increase your pace gradually and experiment with swimming positions. Part of the problem might be psychological. Familiarizing yourself with the water, and staying calm and confident are critical to your improvement. Moreover, breathing in and out constantly and evenly is key to swimming. You should practice your breathing rhythm and avoid holding your breath."
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"There are a number of techniques to increase your tolerance. You could try swimming with your hands only, practice downhill swimming, increase your pace gradually and experiment with swimming positions. ",
"Part of the problem might be psychological. Familiarizing yourself with the water, and staying calm and confident are critical to your improvement.",
"Breathing in and out constantly and evenly is key to swimming. You should practice your breathing rhythm and avoid holding your breath."
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"text": "Actually, most swimmers at this level of competition wear two caps.",
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"text": "Dana Vollmer, who won gold with a new world-record time in the 100m butterfly, actually lost her outer cap in the pool on the return leg of that event.",
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"text": "These caps are latex rubber, which doesn't mix well with chlorine and will eventually degrade, and as Dana's swim shows, even a brand-new cap can slip right off.",
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"text": "Second, as Rory states, a common (though not universal) way to put all your headgear on is to put one swim cap on, then put your goggles on, then cover the goggle strap with another swim cap.",
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"text": "Not only does it reduce drag on the goggle strap (which is minor), it helps keep your goggles in one place (MUCH more important).",
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"text": "I was on a swim team when I was much younger, and I lost count of how many times the shock of entering the water ripped my goggles right off my eyes.",
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"text": "You still have to swim if it happens, but it becomes a HUGE distraction that can take you right out of the race.",
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"text": "At your average junior swim meet, losing a race to your goggles is embarassing but not devastating.",
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"text": "At the Olympics, it would be a heartbreaker.",
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"text": "The two caps are also made of different materials.",
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"text": "The inner cap is latex, which stays on the head better, but wrinkles.",
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"text": "\"The outer silicone cap better maintains the shape and does not wrinkle as much, thereby causing less drag,\" Salo told Yahoo!",
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"text": "- Why do Olympic-level swimmers wear two caps?",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It is for speed- if you have your goggles on over your cap",
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"text": "it upsets water flow, so the second cap over that holds the goggles safely on and streamlines the head.",
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"text": "Sure, it's an infinitesimally small benefit, but at that level it is important.",
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"text": "Additionally, some sports manufacturers make some specifically to be worn like this to reduce drag further.",
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"text": "It helps them swim faster.",
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"text": "it not for hair.",
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"text": "the water will just flow over the cap.",
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"text": "he wore two caps only because if one comes off he has a back up already on and it supports the goggles making them stay in their lace under the second cap as the goggles may come off from diving.",
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"question": "Just now I saw Michael Phelps competing in the 400m Medley heats (London Olympics 2012). After he finished the race, I saw him take off two caps. I can imagine that a swimmer uses one, but what is the reason for wearing two caps? Is this something new? Does it help him swim faster?",
"title": "Why do Michael Phelps and some other swimmers wear two caps?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<equipment><swimming><olympics>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/1236",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/392/Bernhard"
} | 24_13 | [
[
"Swimmers wear two caps to reduce drag, hold their goggles in place and ensure their hair is not released if a cap is lost. The second cap is made of a more aerodynamic material. The second cap also holds the goggles in place and the two caps ensure the hair is not released as loose hair, especially if long, creates a lot of drag.",
"A reason to wear two caps is to have a back-up in case the first one comes off. In competitive swimming, released hair is a serious disadvantage. A second cap is also a means of supporting and securing your goggles in place. Some argue that the caps are designed specifically to reduce drag and increase swimming speed. To this end, one is made out of latex and one out of silicone."
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"A reason to wear two caps is to have a back-up in case the first one comes off. In competitive swimming, released hair is a serious disadvantage.",
"A second cap is a means of supporting and securing your goggles in place.",
"The caps are designed specifically to reduce drag and increase swimming speed. To this end, one is made out of latex and one out of silicone."
]
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Endomondo.com works very well importing all the information from Nike+.",
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"text": "After that you can use it to export individually to some other services, or use it as I think is pretty good.",
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"text": "Update:",
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"text": "Sorry folks for taking so long to get around to this update",
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"text": "- I had to retire this tool in 2016 ago due to nike changing their API, and not having enough time to re-engineer the code, so this is no longer an acceptable solution.",
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"text": "Original Post:",
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"text": "I wrote a tool to help export workouts from nike+ for upload into other tools like Strava or Runkeeper: http://nikeplusexporter.rhysmccaig.com/",
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"text": "Trailrunnerx on osx can sync with nike+, including after Nike's recent changes to their API.",
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"text": "From there one can export to various file formats.",
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"text": "The gpx-tracks has worked for me for uploading to Strava and MapMyRun.",
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"text": "Runkeeper on the other hand seemed to have trouble extracting the relevant data from these files.",
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"text": "The Smashrun website can sync with nike+ directly.",
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"text": "It's good for numbers, but doesn't have maps yet.",
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"text": "MayMyRun also connects directly to Nike+, but doesn't seem to import gps data/maps and doesn't offer any graphs or statistics.",
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"text": "It does so only when importing from files rather than through nike+.",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/882/syngnz",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Note that I've changed this answer several times, to keep up with current status.",
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"text": "TLDR:",
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"text": "Use Smashrun , then Tapiriik",
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"text": "In the previous months/years Nike has been changing the way it provides data; including who it provides it to.",
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"text": "I'd been using the exporter by Rhys McCaig for quite some time, but he has since discontinued his tool.",
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"text": "I've also tried Tapiriik , which is great, but the Nike+ service is still in beta",
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"text": "(I always get the message \"Some activities could not be synchronized\").",
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"text": "Smashrun is able to import Nike+ runs directly.",
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"text": "From there if you still want to export somewhere else (or just upload TCX files to Dropbox)",
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"text": "you can use Tapiriik .",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/1275/Roflo",
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"text": "http://www.rungap.com/ supports a whole bunch of apps including Runkeeper, Garmin and Nike+.",
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"text": "Unfortunately, it's doesn't provide online access.",
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"text": "Just smartphone app access.",
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"text": "Update: Smashrun can import runs from Nike+ and Garmin directly.",
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"text": "It also supports importing gpx/tcx files.",
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"text": "I have the free membership for now.",
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"text": "It is pretty bare bones, but from the looks of it the pro membership provides more valuable information and analytics.",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/788/mottosan",
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"text": "The Android app",
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"text": "SyncMyTracks can import and export from and to Nike+, Strava, RunKeeper, Endomondo, Garmin Connect and other services.",
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"text": "I've been using it for a few months, and it works great!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/2086/Christian Davén",
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"text": "I'm not sure what format the Nike files are, but the Fit File Repair Tool offers the most comprehensive options for conversion from and into the most commonly used formats (fit, tcx, and hrm).",
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"text": "On top of that, it lets you fix faulty files, e.g. when the gps or the heart rate monitor went crazy due to interferences.",
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"text": "If conversion to tcx is sufficient, I found tcx creator to work quite smoothely.",
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"text": "It's main purpose is to combine hrm files (from your heart rate monitor) with gpx files (from your gps device),",
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"text": "but it also works if you skip the gpx files and just feed it with hrm.",
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"text": "So basically, what you need to do is check what file format Nike produced for you and check what your new online service can import (most likely one or more of the above).",
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"text": "According to the tcx creator website, all of the following accept tcx files: endomondo.com, strava.com, connect.garmin.com, runkeeper.com",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/1199/Christoph",
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"text": "The (free) online app called Tapiriik provides a great way to sync between many applications.",
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"text": "Including endomondo, strave, runkeeper, dropbox, garmin, ride with gps, motivato, and many others.",
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"text": "I have written as well a PHP script to export those data: https://github.com/cheesemacfly/nikeplusexport",
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"text": "The main difference I have with the other ones is that the time for each waypoint is calculated so I found it more precise.",
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"text": "It works only with the runs having GPS data and can export to GPX, TCX and JSON.",
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"text": "If you have an iOS device, you might find this app handy: https://rungap.zendesk.com/entries/45048583-Using-Endomondo-with-RunGap",
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] | {
"question": "I'm disillusioned with Nike+, where I've been logging runs for over a year, and ready to try something new (in this case, Strava). How can I export my data from Nike+ so I'm not losing it all?",
"title": "What is the simplest way to transfer data between online running logs?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<running><technology>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/1536",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/35/pjmorse"
} | 24_14 | [
[
"There are a number of programs that ca be used to synch data between Nike+ and Strava. These include SmashRun, SyncMyTracks and Trapiriik, among others.",
"There is a good number of available applications and websites that either sync with or import data from Nike+. These include Endomondo, railrunnerx, gpx-tracks, Smashrun, MayMyRun, Tapiriik and SyncMyTracks. Another option would be to use a file repair software, such as the Fit File Repair Tool, to convert your data into the desired format."
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"There is a good number of available applications and websites that either sync with or import data from Nike+. These include Endomondo, railrunnerx, gpx-tracks, Smashrun, MayMyRun, Tapiriik and SyncMyTracks.",
"Another option would be to use a file repair software, such as the Fit File Repair Tool, to convert your data into the desired format."
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I have heard of six being scored in extra time in the FA Cup fixture Leyton Orient v Droylesden, Orient scoring all six in winning 8 - 2.This",
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"text": "took place on 7 December 2010.",
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"text": "There is a match report on the BBC: BBC NEWS",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/949/Thomas",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Arsenal and reading 4 goals in overtime isn't a new record.",
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"text": "Most goals scored in extra time in FIFA World cup",
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"text": "was 5 goals in the match between Italy vs West Germany on 1970.",
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"text": "Youtube",
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"text": "I couldn't find any match with more than 5 goals scored in extra time..",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/385/Dor Cohen",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Late reply, but I found a match with 7 goals in extra time: DFB Pokal (German Cup) , 1974-10-26, between Viktoria Köln and TSG Usingen - from 0-0 to 6-1 ( link , link ).",
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"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/9770/NiSch",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I saw a thread in Tony's Nonleague Matters forum mentioning two more matches with 6 goals in extra time: 2006 Welsh Cup between Queens Park and Brymbo - from 2-2 to 3-7 ( link ) 1995 FA Cup tie between Walsall and Torquay - from 3-3 to 8-4 ( link )",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/1406/Daniel Daranas",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "In Coupe Gambardella ( U19 Men's French cup ); [round of 64 and round of 32] 12 goals in extra time: Douai SC-Amiens SC: 0-0 to 0-12 Coupe Gambardella 1998-99 10 goals in extra time: Besançon RC-Olympique Lyon: 0-0 to 0-10 Coupe Gambardella 1996-97 In Coupe des Dames 2017-18 ( Luxembourg Women's cup ) [round of 32] 11 goals in extra time: Union Mertert Wasserbillig-Aspelt Remich Bous Entente: 1-1 to 7-6 Soccerway In UEFA Women's Champions League 2017-18 [Final] 5 goals in extra time: VFL Wolfsburg-Olympique Lyon: 0-0 to 1-4 UEFA",
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"text": "I also saw a match with 7 goals in overtime in the Coupe de France (French Cup) in round of 512",
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"text": "but I can not find the match in question.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/15384/Danyss77nfs",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In German Central Rhine Regional Cup 2020 [quarter-finals] 6 goals in extra time: Germania Windeck - Viktoria Arnoldsweiler 0:0",
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"text": "to 0:6 kicker",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/20004/Stanley",
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}
] | {
"question": "On 30-Oct-2012, Arsenal defeated Reading with an incredible score of 7-5. A more astonishing fact is that 4 goals were scored in Extra-time. Is this the record for the most number of goals in extra-time, in a single game? If not, which match holds the record?",
"title": "Most number of extra-time Goals",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<football><history><records><statistics><trivia>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/1784",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/857/Orangecrush"
} | 24_15 | [
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"From the evidence, it appears that 12 is the highest number of goals scored in extra time. That was in the Coupe Gambardella ( U19 Men's French cup ); [round of 64 and round of 32] 12 goals in extra time: Douai SC-Amiens SC: 0-0 to 0-12.",
"There are conflicting views on the maximum number of extra-time goals. Answers vary from 6 to 12, where France holds the record."
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"There are conflicting views on the maximum number of extra-time goals. Answers vary from 6 to 12, where France holds the record."
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"text": "You are right that the French Open is the only Grand Slam tournament without Hawkeye,",
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"text": "The reason is that Clay, unlike grass and hardcourts, leaves a mark that players and umpires can check and verify if the ball was in or out.",
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"text": "You can argue that some mistakes can be made but that's quite rare, A hawkeye system is very expensive and the cost/benefit ratio doesn't pays.",
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"text": "Gilbert Ysern, the director general of the French Open and a former umpire, address to this:",
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"text": "“I don't think we need it,” he said in an interview in his office.",
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"text": "“There are ball marks on clay,” Ysern said with a genial smile, “and our chair umpires are used to checking the marks when needed, and, so why would we need Hawk-Eye?”",
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"text": "And the disputes?",
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"text": "“It happens very, very rarely that the officials can't find the mark,” he said.",
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"text": "I strongly suspect that the manufacturers of Hawkeye and similar ball tracking systems would actually prefer not to have a hard 'ground truth' to compare to being beamed live to millions of viewers.",
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"text": "These systems are not as accurate as the TV graphics imply and there use as part of the umpiring process is not all to do with accuracy.",
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"text": "have the final say when the humans can't agree as arguing with a machine is futile.",
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"text": "The manufacturers of Hawkeye claim a mean accuracy of 3.6mm, although this figure, or at least its interpretation has been called into question .",
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"text": "Basically, since this is an average over some range of shots, it is likely that the actual error in certain circumstances is significantly higher (as detailed in the second reference).",
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"text": "Errors approaching 10mm could easily turn the correct result, as observed by the skid mark on clay ground truth, into an incorrect Hawkeye call.",
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"text": "It would be terrible publicity to have a top player angrily pointing to the clear evidence on the court that differs from the Hawkeye prediction.",
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"text": "Clay courts leave a visible mark which shows where the ball lands.",
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"text": "This is the reason why the staff at Roland Garros clear the court often during a match so there wont be overlap of marks(or mistake of the actual mark), which can cause confusion.",
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"text": "If a ball is questionable, then the referee will come down and check the mark on the court and make his decision about whether it was in or out .",
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"text": "Balls can skid much longer distances on clay.",
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"text": "On clay both the ball and the court are changing simultaneously as a layer of dirt is shifted around.",
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"text": "These factors make Hawk-Eye's job more challenging on clay and it would be logical to conclude that Hawk-Eye's margin of error increases on clay.",
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"text": "Hawk Eye is in general more accurate than the human eye",
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"text": "but that doesn't mean it's 100% perfect.",
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"text": "It will always remain an approximation of the \"ground truth\".",
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"text": "With clay courts we have the unique ability to see the actual physical mark.",
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"text": "This hard, physical evidence should be always preferred to approximation, no matter how accurate.",
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"question": "I have never seen Hawk-Eye technology to be used on clay tournaments. French Open is running at the moment and it is not being used there. What are the reasons for not using this technology on clay? Do tennis federations have some rules against it?",
"title": "Why is Hawk-Eye not used on clay courts",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tennis><technology><video-review>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/2727",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/1237/Martin"
} | 24_17 | [
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"The reason is that Clay, unlike grass and hardcourts, leaves a mark that players and umpires can check and verify if the ball was in or out. There is always a margin of error with technology and it would be embarrassing for the manufacturers if the technology called differently from the actual evidence in the clay.",
"Unlike grass, clay leaves a visible mark. Mistakes are rare, therefore the cost of a hawkeye system is not justified. You might also want to consider that the Hawkeye system is only an approximation of hard evidence. Since clay leaves a visible trace, Hawkeye is not as effective, and therefore redundant. More to the point, some people argue that ball tracking systems like Hawkeye are not actually objective, so possible clash with visible evidence, such as clay, may cause bad publicity. Finally, the Hawkeye system is not as effective on clay, given that balls go further and may deform on impact, while court conditions might change."
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"Unlike grass, clay leaves a visible mark. Mistakes are rare, therefore the cost of a hawkeye system is not justified.",
"Some people argue that ball tracking systems like Hawkeye are not actually objective, so possible clash with visible evidence, such as clay, may cause bad publicity.",
"The Hawkeye system is not as effective on clay, given that balls go further and may deform on impact, while court conditions might change.",
"You might want to consider that the Hawkeye system is only an approximation of hard evidence. Since clay leaves a visible trace, Hawkeye is not as effective, and therefore redundant."
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"text": "In addition to the previous answer a couple of other interesting examples spring to mind.",
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"text": "These from Test matches: The first abandoned test I can find was West Indies vs England , Sabina Park (1998).",
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"text": "The match was called off after only 10 overs due to an unplayable pitch (Scorecard) .",
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"text": "A similar occurrence in Antigua in 2009, where the game was called off after 10 deliveries.",
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"text": "(Cricinfo report) .",
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"text": "This was due to the sandy condition of the recently relaid outfield being deemed dangerous to bowlers.",
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"text": "The second Test between England and West Indies at the Sir Vivian Richards stadium in Antigua has been abandoned after just ten deliveries, after the sand-based outfield was deemed a safety risk to the bowlers.",
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"text": "The test between England and Pakistan at the Oval in 2006 was abandoned when the Pakistan team refused to emerge from their dressing room after tea on the 4th day, feeling they had been unfairly docked 5 runs for ball-tampering.",
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"text": "The first semi final match between India and Sri Lanka in world cup 1996 was stopped due to disturbance in the crowd.",
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"text": "Read the note of the match: At the fall of the 8th Indian wicket, sections of the crowd vented their disgust with the state of the match by setting fire to some areas of the stands and throwing fruit and waterbottles onto the field.",
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"text": "The match was briefly stopped and when play was about to resume, the crowd again threw bottles at the deep fielders.",
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"text": "I don't know any other match which was stopped due to such reasons.",
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"text": "Along with the other examples already cited, an unusual incident occurred in 1975, when the 3rd Ashes Test at Headingley was abandoned as a draw due to an act of sabotage : before the fifth day's play, the pitch was dug up and damaged with oil by campaigners calling for the release of a convicted criminal.",
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"text": "The India vs West Indies game in Rajkot,2002 was stopped amidst security threats after chuckers started attacking players with water bottles and sandbags.",
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"text": "India won by 81 runs by virtue of D/L method.",
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"text": "Relevant CricInfo article.",
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"text": "The India vs Sri Lanka game in Feroz Shah Kotla, Delhi, 2009 due to dangerous pitch conditions.",
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"text": "Kotla Pitch Fiasco",
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"text": "An instance where a Test match was ended by crowd disturbance was the Fifth Test between West Indies and Australia at Sabina Park, Kingston in May 1978.",
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"text": "West Indies were 9 wickets down in their second innings and over 100 runs behind late on the fifth day when parts of the crowd rioted.",
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"text": "A decision was made that evening by the management of the two teams to complete the Test on the following morning, which would have been the sixth day of the game.",
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"text": "Peter Toohey played for Australia in that Test, his account of the incident is here .",
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"text": "In a match at Sialkot(India's tour of Pakistan 1984-85), Pakistan had put India in to bat after winning the toss.",
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"text": "India was cruising at 210/3 after 40 overs with Dilip Vengsarkar well-set on 94*.",
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"text": "The match was then abandoned following news of the assasination of India's Prime Minister Indira Gandhi.",
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"text": "The sad addition to the examples above are all the Sheffield Shield matches in progress on 25 November 2014 .",
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"text": "Play in the New South Wales vs South Australia match was abandoned for the day when Phillip Hughes was critically injured by a bouncer; all the other in progress matches were abandoned at the end of the day's play.",
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"text": "In addition to all of the other answers, the second Test between Pakistan and Sri Lanka in 2008-09 was abandoned on 3 March 2009, after the Sri Lankan cricket team was attacked on its way to the cricket ground.",
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"text": "Since then, the only international matches played in Pakistan have been those played on Zimbabwe's tour of the country in 2015.",
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"question": "A cricket match can be stopped due to weather conditions (rain) or bad light before getting the result. Have any international matches been stopped before getting the result for any reasons besides weather or bad lighting in cricket history?",
"title": "Have any cricket matches been stopped for reasons other than weather/lighting?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<cricket><history><interruption>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/3788",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/753/Azik Abdullah"
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"Cricket matches have been stopped for a number of reasons not related to weather. Unplayable pitch has stopped many matches. Crticial injury to a player, when a player was injured by a bouncer in Australia. In the test match between England and Pakistan in 2006, the Pakistan team refused to come out of the dressing room after tea as they felt they had been wrongly accused and penalised for ball tampering.",
"A good number of cricket matches has been stopped due to dangerous pitch conditions, players' sit down and players' injury. Problems are not exclusive to the organization or the players. There are examples of crowd disturbances, political unrest and criminal activity that led to a game's suspension."
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"text": "So I would like to know if there is some sports for which the fact to be smaller than his adversary can be a distinct advantage?",
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"text": "In horse racing, having a smaller and lighter rider is more advantageous.",
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"text": "It lets the horse sprint faster because there's less weight on its back.",
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"text": "Source: taken of wikipedia",
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"text": "Gymnasts are also usually quite small, there is actually some debate over whether gymnastics can affect growth (but I don't think there is much evidence behind this).",
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"text": "According to this website American gold medalist Gabrielle Douglas is four feet, eleven inches, and 90 pounds .",
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"text": "http://www.boston.com/sports/blogs/statsdriven/2012/08/the_bodies_of_champion_gymnast.html Also height isn't always an advantage in soccer, just look at the average height of the Barcelona team (Messi, Xavi, Iniesta, Pedro etc).",
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"text": "In cricket being short may not help you in selection in the team.",
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"text": "But if a player is a batsman, he may get some advantages in batting.",
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"text": "(or disadvantages for tall players do not apply)",
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"text": "Tall players have to bend more than short players while batting.",
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"text": "Bowlers have to bowl under their shoulders otherwise it will considered a No ball (after two bouncers).",
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"text": "So they have to shorten their length.",
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"text": "They can play yorker length ball better than tall players because normally short players have high backlift and tall players have to keep the bat lower while playing the shot.",
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"text": "However, if you are a bowler (specially fast bowler), being a taller is an advantage.",
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"text": "I can think of a couple instances where it is an advantage for the athlete to be small.",
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"text": "They are both \"racing\" situations, and the athlete in question is a \"controller.\"",
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"text": "The first is the \"coxswain\" (caller) on a rowing team.",
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"text": "His function is necessary, but the smaller he is, the less burden on his teammates.",
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"text": "The second, as someone else pointed out, is a jockey on a horse, where the jockey has the dual role of controlling the horse and not being a burden on the horse.",
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"text": "In Curling athletes with a low center of gravity (smaller one generally) are helped in the stability of the slip.",
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"text": "The stability of the slip is one of the most important feature to be a strong curler.",
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"text": "During the action of broom is important the hands and back power, while during the slip is important to have muscolar legs, so power and compact athletes have a slight head start",
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"text": "Besides all sports that have been mentioned already, I would like to add shorttrack to that list.",
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"text": "Being short and having little weight gives the rider an advantage to be more agile while fighting for the best positions and taking over other riders.",
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"text": "However, this does not mean that taller riders cannot compete with the best, since they might bring more power.",
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"text": "Ter Mors , for example, is often by far the tallest rider on the ice.",
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"text": "Distance running is another sport where a smaller athlete may have an advantage.",
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"text": "When work = mass * distance, an athlete with smaller mass will do less work to cover the distance.",
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"text": "If two athletes have the same capacity for rate of work - that is, they can do the same amount of work in a given span of time - the lighter one will win a race.",
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"text": "There are limits to this - at some point being lighter limits your capacity to do work -",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Shooting From wikipedia : in shooting sports, a shorter shooter can maintain better balance when standing for long periods of time holding a gun, as well as keep their gun steady.",
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"text": "Motorsports, like most other racing sports, typically favors drivers that are lightweight, which gives smaller, lighter drivers an advantage.",
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"text": "While most motorsport organizations feature a minimum chassis weight in the regulations, this often does not take driver weight into consideration.",
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"text": "This allows cars with lighter drivers to have a slight weight advantage against cars with heavier drivers.",
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"text": "This is prevalent in open-wheel racing, particularly karts, where the karts themselves are all but equal in weight, and",
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"text": "the differences mainly come from the driver's weight.",
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"text": "TL;DR,",
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"text": "Regulated car weight + lighter driver allows for faster, more agile movement vs. cars with heavier drivers.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Rock climbing Lead climbing and bouldering nowadays tends to favour smaller / lighter people than taller / heavier.",
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"text": "I know this can end up as a long debate, but for a shorter person looking for a sport this is something to look into!",
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] | {
"question": "Many sports put forward tall players. I know that everybody can play any sport, but I've noticed that in professional teams (basketball, volleyball, soccer, tennis, ...) there is a tendency to see tall people. It's maybe due to advantages that high sizing can provide. It's depending of each sport. So I would like to know if there is some sports for which the fact to be smaller than his adversary can be a distinct advantage?",
"title": "Are there sports in which being smaller than your adversary can be a distinct advantage?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<technique><international-sports>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/3904",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/2212/Fractaliste"
} | 24_20 | [
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"There are a larhe number of sports in which being small is a definite advantage. These include horse racing, gymnastics, rowing, motor racing, shooting, rock climbing and long distance running.",
"There is a number of sports where a smaller frame is actually a benefit. These include horse racing, gymnastics, cricket, rowing, short track, distance running, shooting, motorsports and different types of climbing. This is often related to balance and less weight, even though certain sports like gymnastics can arguably hinder development."
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"There is a number of sports where a smaller frame is actually a benefit. These include horse racing, gymnastics, cricket, rowing, short track, distance running, shooting, motorsports and different types of climbing. This is often related to balance and less weight, even though certain sports like gymnastics can arguably hinder development."
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"text": "This Footytube forum discussion mentions several players (most French) from other countries: Zidane (Algeria), Desailly (Ghana), Vieira (Senegal), that went on to not play for their country of birth.",
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"text": "The decision by Algeria to not accept Zidane because he was too slow sure turned out to be a poor decision, 'eh?",
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"text": "One other that comes to mind is Dani Osvaldo , who plays for Italy but was born in Argentina (a common relationship for the two countries).",
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"text": "The aforementioned Kevin-Prince (Germany) plays for Ghana and played against Germany.",
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"text": "Unfortunately, none of these players have scored against their countries of birth as far as I can see scanning their International Goals, but the chances are high that each played against their country of birth (all three French players have many, many caps for Les Bleus)",
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"text": "Players who play against their national team: David Trezeguet (Argentina): at least played a game against Argentine (playing for france).",
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"text": "Guillermo",
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"text": "Franco (Argentina):",
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"text": "One he didn't enter the field, and the other he enter as a substitute.",
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"text": "The two matches where on world cup (2006 and 2010) Player who didn't play against his national team: Alfredo Di Stefano (Argentina): I can't find any reference if he plays a match vs Argentina when he was playing for Spain.",
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"text": "Camoranesi (Argentina): didn't play against Argentina, when he was playing for Italy.",
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"text": "After looking at this list of players who have switched nationalities in football I saw that Mathias Fernadez represented Chile despite being Argentinian.",
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"text": "In a game in 2011 he scored vs Argentina.",
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"text": "He does however consider himself Chilean having left Argentina aged 4.",
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"text": "Germany's has this tradition of having few players from Austria and Poland(Klose and Podolski).",
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"text": "During the famous Euro 2008 match between Germany and Poland, Lukas Podalski scored both of Germany goals with one of them assisted by fellow striker, Klose.",
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"text": "As a respect for his native country Podalski didn't celebrate the goal and also later told that it was emotional to score against his country.",
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"text": "After looking at this list of players who have switched nationalities in football I saw that Mathias Fernadez represented Chile despite being Argentinian.",
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"text": "There are quite a few actually; practically every game between Turkey and Germany have had some player \"upsetting\" one side.",
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"text": "Examples: 07.10.2011",
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"text": "Turkish left-back Hakan Balta scored the only goal for Turkey, as the home team lost 3-1.",
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"text": "He's born in W. Berlin .",
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"text": "Altintop and N. Sahin , both born and raised in Germany.",
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"text": "Similarly M. Özil scored against Turkey in multiple games; even though he's not born in Turkey his parents are both Turkish, and he has on several occasions",
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"text": "If we continue with Germany, more recent players were L. Podolski and M. Klose , who have played against Poland.",
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"text": "The duo scored a goal in Euro 2008 and chose not to celebrate it",
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"text": "In the game between Albania and Switzerland in 2011, X. Shaqiri scored the opening goal.",
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"text": "I'm not sure if it counts though, as he's born in Kosovo, but he is ethnically speaking a \"Kosovo-Albanian\" (not sure if it's called that in English, sorry).",
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"text": "Interestingly, almost all players on the pitch were born in Kosovo or Albania, so it was basically a derby!",
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"question": "Diego Costa is making his debut for Spain tonight and he will almost certainly go to Brazil as their main striker considering his form this year. You could imagine the reception he would get playing over there but if he lined up vs Brazil or even scored against them then I'm not sure he could ever go back! Does anyone know of any cases where nationalised players have played or even scored against their country of birth?",
"title": "Nationalised players scoring against their country of birth",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<football><trivia>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/4229",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/1947/RoB"
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"A number of footbal players have changed nationality and then played against their previos nationality team. Kevin-Prince (Germany) plays for Ghana and played against Germany. David Trezeguet (Argentina) at least played a game against Argentine (playing for France). In Germany, L. Podolski and M. Klose, originally Polish, have played against Poland. In the game between Albania and Switzerland in 2011, X. Shaqiri scored the opening goal.",
"There are several instances of players scoring against their country of birth. Most example pertain to France, Germany and Argentina. However, such players are often raised outside their country of birth."
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"text": "Absolutely.",
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"text": "Ken Griffey Jr. and Ken Griffey Sr. played together in 1990 for the Seattle Mariners.",
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"text": "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_G2AnNdjBu4",
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"text": "http://www.baseball-reference.com/boxes/CAL/CAL199009140.shtml",
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"text": "They played about a month together (8/31 to the end of the season).",
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"text": "In Hockey, Gordie Howe played with his sons Mark and Marty in 1979-80 for the Hartford Whalers.",
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"text": "Wikipedia has a nice page with a list of familial relations in the NHL (they seem to have more than most leagues, probably because the sport is less popular so more likely for familial relations to be successful).",
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"text": "The direct link to the Howes' is at Legends of Hockey .",
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"text": "In the NFL, it doesn't look like anyone really did in the modern era due to the very short career length compared to other sports (except for kickers); in the 1920s, Ted and Charles Nesser played together, Ted as player-coach, and I don't doubt a few more similar occurrences would be found if you looked through the 10s and 20s.",
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"text": "George Wilson coached his son (also George) for the 1966 Miami Dolphins, the only example of that I found.",
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"text": "Ed and Brad Budde were the closest to playing with each other from the list I saw, Ed playing 1963-1976 for the Chiefs and Brad joining the Chiefs in 1980-1986.",
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"text": "This is from a list of father-son relationships from the Pro Football HOF .",
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"text": "From the comments, Leatherwing noted that Wikipedia also has a good NBA Father/Son page ; Kobe Bryant nearly overlapped with Bean, his father (1992/1996).",
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"text": "I realise it's not father and son, but Paul Elvstrøm sailed with his daughter Trine .",
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"text": "They won the 1983/4 European Tornado Championships, were 4th in the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, and 15th at the 1988 Seoul Olympics.",
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"text": "In Cricket there are several examples of that:18 times a father and son have played in the same match",
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"text": "In 1851 and 1853",
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"text": "even William Lillywhite has played with his two sons: John and James",
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"text": "In (international) football : Eiður and Arnór Gudjohnsen.",
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"text": "On 24 April 1996 , he and his father entered football history in an Iceland international friendly in Tallinn.",
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"text": "Arnór started the match, and Eiður came on in the second half as a substitute for his father .",
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"text": "I don't know if car racing meets the definition of a sport in the OP's question, but there have been some contemporaneous fathers and sons in car racing.",
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"text": "Perhaps the most famous is Dale Earnhardt Sr.",
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"text": "Jr. They were in the same race when Earnhardt Sr. died.",
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"text": "This weekend 55 year old Dave Beasant was included on the bench for Stevenage FC as a second choice goalkeeper, in place of his injured son Sam who is also a Stevenage goalkeeper.",
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"text": "So they will never appear in the same team, or even in the same squad, but are both currently 'active' players for their club.",
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"text": "https://uk.eurosport.yahoo.com/news/football-beasant-named-substitute-174734329--sow.html",
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"text": "Also another recent case in football was Brazilian legend Rivaldo playing for the same team as his son, Rivaldinho.",
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"text": "They both played for Brazilian team Mogi Mirim earlier this year.",
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"text": "https://uk.eurosport.yahoo.com/blogs/early-doors/brazilian-legend-rivaldo-fulfils-amazing-ambition-playing-alongside-123845896.html",
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"text": "Italian basketball legend Dino Meneghin played against his 16-year-old son Andrea in 1990, in a game of the top professional Italian league.",
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"text": "He was 40 at the time.",
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"text": "Source: Dino Meneghin, the eternal champion .",
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"text": "In ice hockey, Sami and Kasperi Kapanen played last season in the Finnish league.",
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"text": "It's actually fairly common in U.S. auto racing; teams in those sports are often family owned and passed down between generations.",
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"text": "Lee Petty raced against two of his sons, Richard and Maurice, in the same NASCAR race in 1960.",
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"text": "Mario Andretti raced alongside his son Michael in the CART Indy Car series for 8 years, from Michael's rookie year in 1984 (Mario having rejoined the Indy Car series from Formula-1 in '82), to 1992 when Mario retired for good (becoming Michael's crew chief).",
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"text": "From 1990 to 1992, Mario and Michael were joined on the circuit by Jeff, Mario's son and Michael's brother, who raced in CART until a serious crash in 1994 effectively ended his career.",
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"text": "Michael, in turn, practiced alongside his own son Marco before the latter's first Indy 500 in 2006, but the two never competed in a race as Michael had officially retired in 2002.",
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"text": "Al Unser Sr and Jr were both in the American Championship (aka CART) for 11 years before \"Big Al\"'s retirement in 1994.",
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"text": "Al Sr and his brother Bobby Unser also raced together.",
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"text": "Dale Earnhardts Jr and Sr competed together in the Winston Cup Series in 2000 and 2001 before Sr's fatal crash at Daytona.",
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"text": "In motorsports, Jan Magnussen is still an active competitive driver in Danish touring cars while his son Kevin drives for McLaren in Formula 1.",
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"text": "This may not count since they are very different series.",
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"text": "Martin Brundle and his son Alex Brundle competed in the same team, Greaves Motorsport, driving at the 24 hours of Le Mans in 2012:",
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"text": "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alex_Brundle",
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"text": "According to this FIFA article also Carlos Alonso and Juan Carlos Balazar play in the same official match in first division Peruvian football league",
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"text": "Gordie Howe came out of retirement to play with his sons, Mark and Marty Howe, when the WHA came into being.",
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"text": "After the WHA merged with the NHL, Mark and Gordie played together with the Hartford Whalers for one season.",
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"text": "Sources: Gordie Howe , Mark Howe",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Also in curling is possible to find some matches where father and son play in the same match: On this article from Milwakee Journal (date 27 feb 1937!)",
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"text": "there is the news where in two matches there where fathers and sons: George La Marre played versus his sons William, Edwards and Charles and on another rink Lachman MacDonald played with his son Bruce",
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"text": "On november 2011, according to this article the famous Glenn Howard played versus his son Scott",
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"text": "Conrad Harrison and his son Dean Harrison both won TT titles in the same week.",
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"text": "According to Wikipedia : With his father Conrad Harrison winning the Sidecar Race 1 and Dean Harrison's Lightweight win",
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"text": "this was the first occasion of father/son winners in different classes during the same race week.",
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] | {
"question": "Has there ever been a father and son in the NFL/NBA/NHL/MLB who were both active players at the same time?",
"title": "Father and son who were active players at the same time in NFL/NBA/NHL/MLB?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<trivia>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/6905",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/3763/pacoverflow"
} | 24_23 | [
[
"Ken Griffey Jr. and Ken Griffey Sr. played together in 1990 for the Seattle Mariners. In Hockey, Gordie Howe played with his sons Mark and Marty in 1979-80 for the Hartford Whalers. Gordie Howe came out of retirement to play with his sons, Mark and Marty Howe, when the WHA came into being.",
"There is a number of relevant examples in the American big leagues, most notably Ken Griffey Jr. and Ken Griffey Sr. in baseball, as well as Gordie, Mark and Marty Howe in hockey."
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"text": "Bowls . Indoors this is played on carpet.",
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"text": "Outdoors it is played on grass, either Flat Green or Crown Green.",
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"text": "There aren't many professional players of Bowls, in any of the three disciplines, but they do exist.",
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"text": "The distance that the bowl has to travel is the same on both carpet and grass.",
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"text": "Of course it takes a lot more effort to send the bowl on grass, making the two disciplines very different to play.",
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"text": "The closest examples I can think of to tennis, where the same rules apply across significantly different surfaces are soccer, American football and baseball, all of which can be played on both natural and artificial turf.",
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"text": "Taking a slightly wider definition of \"one sport\", there are some more examples: Athletics events happen on the track and on the open road (marathons).",
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"text": "Professional cycling happens both in velodromes and on the open road.",
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"text": "Equestrian events happen both in the arena (dressage/show jumping) and outside (cross-country).",
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"text": "Volleyball happens both indoors and on sand.",
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"text": "Athletics (track and field) is contested across several surfaces.",
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"text": "The \"road\" disciplines are contested on city streets (concrete, tarmac, etc.) and cross-country is in parks (grass, rocks, trails, etc.), but those could be argued to be different from track and field.",
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"text": "Within specific disciplines, several events are contested on different surfaces.",
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"text": "Most notably, track events may be contested on 400m unbanked outdoor tracks and 200m banked (or unbanked) indoor tracks, even though the actual track surface may be the same indoors and out.",
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"text": "The shot put uses different equipment indoor and out because the shot is put into a sector marked in sand or grass outdoors, but is usually landing on a hard (or lightly padded) floor indoors.",
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"text": "The characteristics of the runways used for the pole vault, triple jump and long jump can vary significantly from indoors to outdoors.",
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"text": "Leaving aside the indoor/outdoor distinction, while all-weather synthetic surfaces are now the norm in athletics, until Mexico City in 1968 the Olympic track events were still contested on packed \"cinder\" tracks (with interesting results in Tokyo, where rainy weather made the inside lane of the track soft and uneven late in the distance races).",
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"text": "Also, some grass tracks are still maintained, although not often used for competition these days.",
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"text": "Just another sport apart from the ones Philip Kendall mentioned, is cricket.",
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"text": "While the outfield has to be of grass, the pitch can be of varied types.",
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"text": "The condition of the pitch can vary from a green top to a completely dry,dusty surface.",
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"text": "Like tennis, the different conditions of the pitches will suit different players/teams.",
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"text": "The various types of pitches include: (non-exhaustive) Green top (significant grass cover)",
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"text": "Hard (bouncy surfaces)",
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"text": "Dry (dry grass cover) Dusty (dry without any grass cover)",
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"text": "Rugby union is now played at the national and international level on grass and also 3G artificial pitches.",
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"text": "SQUASH is an example.",
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"text": "there are several playing surfaces: wood concrete plaster rubber panel(rare)",
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"text": "More details can be found here .",
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] | {
"question": "Other than tennis, which sports, at a professional level, are played on intentionally different surfaces?",
"title": "What sports at a professional level are played on multiple surfaces?",
"forum": "sports.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<rules><trivia>",
"link": "sports.stackexchange.com/questions/12926",
"author": "sports.stackexchange.com/users/10694/jamesmstone"
} | 24_24 | [
[
"Bowls, cycling and equestrian events are all practiced on different surfaces. Some forms of athletics are also practiced over more than one kind of surface, e.g. the marathon and cross-country running. In addition, some sports like cricket and rugby can be played on both real grass and artificial turk.",
"There is a great number of professional level sports played on multiple surfaces. These include bowls, America football and baseball, cycling, canoeing/kayaking, riding, cricket, rugby and squash. These sports are played in two or more surfaces, while different rules may apply. Special attention should be paid to athletics, which can take place on different tracks, on fields, but also on open roads."
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"There is a great number of professional level sports played on multiple surfaces. These include bowls, America football and baseball, cycling, canoeing/kayaking, riding, cricket, rugby and squash. These sports are played in two or more surfaces, while different rules may apply.",
"Special attention should be paid to athletics, which can take place on different tracks, on fields, but also on open roads."
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"text": "As you mentioned, one of the primary differences between a Presta and Schrader valves are the diameters--with Schrader valves being slightly larger--and therefore the valve holes on bicycle rims are drilled to suit one size or another.",
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"text": "Your foremost concern with using a Presta valve in a rim drilled for a Shrader valve shouldn't be 'movement' of the valve stem, as geoffc suggested, but rather a 'hernia' of the tube through the excess space at high pressure, leading to a blowout.",
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"text": "Most mountain bike tires sit at a low pressure, therefore you will probably get away with it, however, there is a very inexpensive adapter, sometimes called a 'valve grommet', which is made out of rubber or metal and serves to make the valve hole small enough for a Presta valve to fit snugly.",
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"text": "It will also not come loose under high pressure, unlike geoffc's 'old tire' solution.",
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"text": "Yes you can.",
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"text": "Many presta tubes come with a grommet to allow you to use presta valve tubes in a wheel drilled for schraeder valves.",
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"text": "I do this all the time, basically use the presta nut on the inner side to avoid the tube getting \"pinched\" in the extra space, then if you can find another presta nut, screw that one to the outside where it's supposed to be.",
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"text": "Works like a charm.",
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"text": "I have not tried it, but consider, once the tube is inflated, the pressure will hold the valve stem pretty much in place.",
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"text": "The concern would be if the edge is rough enough that it would cut into the tube that protrudes.",
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"text": "Consider cutting an old tire and wrap the base of the stem with some old tube material and you would probably be fine.",
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"text": "As others have mentioned, there's ways to do it.",
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"text": "I'd just recommend not doing it.",
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"text": "I have more pressure loss problems with my Presta bikes than I do the Schrader equipped ones.",
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"text": "Strikes me as a downgrade rather than an upgrade.",
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"text": "The only advantage I find to the Presta is the size, which will let you run narrower wheels/tires.",
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"text": "It should work fine if the Presta tube is meant to inflate as large as a MTB tire is supposed to be.",
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"text": "I'd tape the valve to increase it's size.",
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"text": "I have done it and it worked fine.",
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"text": "Another alternative is to drill the correct size hole in the opposite side of the wheel - thus you can run presta or schrader in the same rim.",
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"text": "I inherited the wheels set up this way.",
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"text": "The person explained his reasoning that he preferred to just pump up the tire after a flat rather than changing tubes or patching.",
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"text": "My questions about puncturing the newly inflated tires immediately after got me a dim look since it sounded like he didn't bother to do any triage to remove the cause of the flats...",
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"text": "Back when I rode a road bike hybrid, I always used presta tubes with schraeder rims.",
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"text": "I can't say it worked 100% of the time, but I only had an issue once.",
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"text": "And that was across a couple years.",
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"text": "On my hybrid I have a schrader valve on the front wheel (the tube hasn't had a flat yet",
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"text": "so I've not changed the inner) and a presta valve on the back.",
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"text": "The nut that holds the presta valve to the rim seems to prevent any \"hernia\" from occurring, although occasionally I burst a rear tube when pumping it up too vigorously (it appears to \"hernia\" through the hole slightly and causes a burst around the base of the valve).",
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"text": "I always tighten the nut after inflation.",
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"text": "The reason for the presta valve on the back is that the size of inner tube I use only comes in presta valve versions at Halfords which is where, through pure force of habit, I end up buying replacement inner tubes.",
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"text": "I've been using a Presta valve in my front schrader rim since I picked up tubes last, because they were out of schraders in my rim size.",
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"text": "Haven't had any problems yet, knock on wood.",
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"text": "I have used both types of valves in tubes.",
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"text": "In my view the presta is strictly for narrow rims.",
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"text": "I prefer schrader valves my self for several reasons: the schrader valve tubes will hold high pressure the same as the presta.",
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"text": "They are easier to fill",
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"text": "they are easier to check the pressure using standard pressure guages found anywhere.",
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"text": "I say this based on more than fourty years of repairing and riding bicycles.",
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"text": "However, if you prefer presta then I can say that a presta valve in a schrader rim is usually no problem.",
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"question": "I keep losing pressure in my tires, and among other things, I'm looking at the valves in the tubes. It's an old mountain bike with 26 inch tires. Can I use Presta tubes on rims drilled for Schrader valves ? I know the valve will be smaller than the hole and could cause issues there, but has anyone had success (or failures) with this?",
"title": "Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><innertube><presta><schrader>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7/Brock Boland"
} | 24_26 | [
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"Apparently there is no problem when using Presta tubes with Schrader rims. Many people do it and have no problems. However, some people advise against it as they say the loss of pressure using Presta tubes is more noticeable.",
"In most cases it is safe to use a Presta tube in Schrader rims, especially in mountain bikes that run on low pressure. However, it might not be recommended, as Presta may be optimal for narrow rims, but has more pressure losses, is more difficult to fill and cannot be checked with standard gauges."
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"In most cases it is safe to use a Presta tube in Schrader rims, especially in mountain bikes that run on low pressure.",
"It might not be recommended, as Presta may be optimal for narrow rims, but has more pressure losses, is ,ore difficult to fill and cannot be checked with standard gauges."
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"sents": [
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"text": "I thought spandex shorts looked weird too, until my wife bought me a pair with the padding.",
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"text": "The shorts with padding help protect your sensitive groin parts, as well help keep you cooler and drier (preventing nasty sores) by wicking the moisture (sweat) away from your body.",
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"text": "There's no binding or rubbing in the wrong areas, and all your jiggly parts are held securely in place.",
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"text": "And a big, important point about bike shorts",
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"text": "Jerseys also come in tight and loose fitting material - I personally prefer the loose-fitting jerseys (I'm not exactly skinny enough to wear the tight jerseys).",
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"text": "Other than the moisture-wicking they provide, they also come in extremely visible colors, which is nice when you're out riding by yourself, especially if visibility is low.",
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"text": "There are a few good reasons for it.",
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"text": "More aerodynamic, we humans don't put out much power so every little bit helps Padded shorts.",
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"text": "You want these for anything longer than a short ride.",
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"text": "Most shorts with pads happen to be spandex.",
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"text": "Moisture wicking Read some things a few years ago about muscle fatigue when jiggling (rough road/mountain biking)",
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"text": "If you don't like the way they look (and frankly, no man looks good in lycra shorts), you can wear a pair of lycra shorts with baggy shorts (or trousers) over the top -",
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"text": "that way you still get all the comfort benefits with none of the style penalties.",
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"text": "Depends on whether you want respect at the LBS or every other place you go into.",
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"text": "I'm cut-offs, T-shirts, and tennies.",
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"text": "I like going past the dudes that spent more on their clothes than I spent on my bike.",
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"text": "Sure, I look like a construction worker that's lost his driver's license",
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"text": "but I don't wear 420/tie-dyed either.",
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"text": "Misdirection and a contrarian streak.",
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"text": "As soon as someone says 'you gotta...'",
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"text": "I'm gone, and it is cheaper.",
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"text": "Clothes might make THE man but they don't make a man.",
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"text": "Go to a ski resort and look at the people coming off of the ends of the 'bunny runs', they've got all the fancy stuff.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Because sweaty, crumpled cotton a) chafes and b) is pretty unhygienic.",
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"text": "Lycra (\"spandex\") doesn't bunch up, shifts sweat more effectively",
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"text": "and (if padded) takes a bit of the road buzz away.",
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"text": "I'm so used to wearing it the idea of looking strange doesn't even cross my mind.",
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"text": "Whatever you wear, make sure you wash it often.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/272/markdrayton",
"score": 4
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "The first few years of bike commuting, I was all about cotton shorts and shirts.",
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"text": "I thought lycra looked stupid, and was a waste of money.",
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"text": "Then I tried some lycra shorts.",
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},
{
"text": "What a difference.",
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"text": "My stuff didn't get chafed or squished on the 15km ride to work.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I kept cooler and drier.",
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"text": "Totally worth it.",
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"text": "I always wear lycra bike shorts now (the padding and hold-stuff-in-place ability are essential for comfort).",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/269/D'Arcy Norman",
"score": 3
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For those who aren't thrilled at dropping a bunch of money on expensive lycra shorts that look weird and make you uncomfortable, there is an alternative!",
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"text": "You can buy liners that do all that same amazing stuff (moistore wicking, bottom-padding, gonad-compressing) at a fraction of the price.",
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"text": "For example these: Men's Cycling Liners",
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"text": "I'm sure there are other alternatives, from other sources.",
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"text": "These will let you keep your baggies and have 90% of the benefits of $100 lycra shorts :)",
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"score": 2
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] | {
"question": "What's the reason for wearing biking clothes made of Spandex (Lycra)? They sure look pretty strange.",
"title": "Why should I wear bicycle clothes made of spandex?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<clothes><spandex>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/41",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29/Johan Dahlin"
} | 24_28 | [
[
"Spandex is the fabric of choice for cycling because it takes the sweat away from the body, holds the \"jiggly\" parts in place and provides padding, thus preventing chafing and soreness, as well as being more hygienic. Moreover, it ir more aerodynamic than cotton or other fabrics.",
"The main advantage of spandex wear is protecting and securing your sensitive parts, while keeping you cool and dry. Spandex does not seem to crumple, which could be an important factor in a long ride, and is more hygienic than materials like cotton. Arguably, spandex clothes also have an aerodynamic effect. Finally, most riding wear is made of spandex, so it is common among cyclist."
]
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[
"The main advantage of spandex wear is protecting and securing your sensitive parts, while keeping you cool and dry.",
"Spandex does not seem to crumple, which could be an important factor in a long ride, and is more hygienic than materials like cotton.",
"Arguably, spandex clothes have an aerodynamic effect.",
"Most riding wear is made of spandex, so it is common among cyclist."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Hmm, we're kind of hitting most of the answer but not all of it (in my opinion that is!).",
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"text": "Its probably better to ask this the other way round - why not use a road pedal on a mountain bike...",
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"text": "On a road bike you're generally going to keep your foot in the pedal, you're only going to take it out to stop so",
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"text": "therefore you want it to be as simple and as light as possible.",
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"text": "On a MTB you're liable to have your foot on and off more often, you're also likely to want to be able to stomp your foot onto a MTB pedal and have it stay there so it needs to have a larger platform area.",
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"text": "You could also make an argument about MTB shoes being softer but the designs tend to be driven by competition",
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"text": "and so that's probably more coincidence than anything else.",
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"text": "If we're talking about using toeclips then clearly you'll need bigger pedals and clips for MTB boots than road shoes.",
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"text": "And weight does matter - it may only be a few 10s of grams but a few here and a few there will add up and all other things being equal less weight will make a difference.",
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"text": "I use clipless pedals - which I recommend -",
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"text": "and I have one pair of shoes that I use on all my bikes,",
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"text": "some of the pedals are fairly minimal for road, some clearly MTB, some hybrid but more MTB than not and all work with the same SPD cleat.",
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"text": "Paradoxically my current setup has double sided pedals on the \"road\" bike and single sided on the MTB type pedals on my shopping bike...",
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"text": "So why road pedals?",
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"text": "Assuming clipless and further assuming that you will only wear cycling shoes then you don't need the \"complexity\" (no difference in my pedals) or the weight of a full platform -",
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"text": "so why have it?",
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"text": "But the real difference will be in the shoes you chose to use.",
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"text": "(As I final thought I actually have two pairs of shoes - one waterproof - and a pair of sandals",
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"text": "and they all have the same cleat so that I can use whichever is appropriate to the weather on whichever bike I happen to be out on.)",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/69/Murph",
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"text": "The main difference between road and mountain shoes are the stiffness.",
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"text": "On road bikes, the shoes are much stiffer allowing for a more efficient transfer of energy from you -> crank -> tire -> road.",
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"text": "When you are in a race and every tenth of a second counts, the more efficient you are the better.",
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"text": "On a mountain bike, you give up some efficiency, so you don't sprain your ankle every time you plant your foot.",
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"text": "Flexibility is better than stiffness.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32/M. Converse",
"score": 11
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You'll find many differences between MTB pedals and road pedals, just like every other component on the bike.",
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"text": "Here are some of the key differences: Weight.",
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"text": "Most road pedals are made of lightweight alloys, carbon, or plastic.",
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"text": "Road cyclists are more inclined to reduce weight of components than MTB cyclists.",
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"text": "Durability.",
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"text": "Needless to say, there's going to be much more abuse to a MTB pedal than a road pedal.",
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"text": "2-sidedness. Most road pedals can only be clipped-in on one side, whereas most MTB pedals have interfaces on either side of the pedal.",
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"text": "As far as I'm concerned, you should ride with whatever makes you most comfortable.",
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"text": "Most people will use MTB pedals because they are easier to clip into (due to the interface on either side).",
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"text": "I don't think the weight savings is terribly important unless you are doing some serious climbing or racing.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/68/Russ Warren",
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"sents": [
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"text": "For most road-bikers, the difference is weight.",
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"text": "Modern road pedals are often much lighter weight than the typical mountain bike pedal.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23/Dustin Ingram",
"score": 3
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "The only real difference between road bike clipless pedals and mountain bike clipless pedals is weight and aerodynamics.",
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"text": "When you consider the fact that a bicycle and rider are going to weigh over 100 pounds (unless you're a midget on some insane carbon-fiber time trials bike) a few dozen grams doesn't make a bit of difference.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Meh, I would say if it's comfortable for you",
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"text": "and you don't need to conform to specific rules for competition or anything, keep doing what you're doing.",
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"text": "I've been riding road bikes with mountain-biking shoes for years and don't feel like I'm Doing It Wrong.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33/Scott",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I am a big guy, so I ride with Look pedals on my road bike, because they have the largest cleat size, and the largest area to distribute my weight to the pedal.",
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"text": "Shoes vs Pedal style are two different issues.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I always maintained the major feature difference b/w road and MTB pedals as being single vs multi release shoe cleat.",
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"text": "Road pedals typically only release when you turn the heel of your foot out - hence single release cleat.",
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"text": "MTB pedals are multi-release (i.e. will release if you turn your foot in or out past ~45 degrees).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Dirt and mud are much more common on a MTB, but not a real concern in most road riding.",
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"text": "The tolerances for MTB pedals are much higher than are needed for road riding, where the pedals won't be as dirty.",
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"text": "Also, I find myself engaging my pedals with a MTB in much more \"odd\" positions compared to my road bike, which is virtually always on the flat, with one foot on the ground.",
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"text": "On a MTB, I might be stopped on a trail pointing any which way.",
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"text": "All of those things are perfectly fine on a road bike, but unnecessary.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/389/LanceH",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Researching on this myself, the main reasons I've found is that more surface (road) is better for power transmission and more comfortable on longer rides, which you would also want on MTB but road cleat can be inutilized with mud or just natural soil not tarmac, so you could have problems stepping with road shoes on a MTB track terrain then trying to reclip with stuff inside cleat.",
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"text": "There seem to be also range of motion (lateral?)",
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"text": "issues, better on MTB pedals but not so needed in road.",
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] | {
"question": "I've been riding road bikes for a couple of years, but with mountain bike pedals, I've been thinking about switching over to a road bike pedal, but what's the reason? Is the performance improved or is it more about conform?",
"title": "Why is a proper road bike pedal preferred for road bikes?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<road-bike><pedals><parts>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/74",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29/Johan Dahlin"
} | 24_30 | [
[
"On a MTB you're liable to have your foot on and off more often, you're also likely to want to be able to stomp your foot onto a MTB pedal and have it stay there so it needs to have a larger platform area. Most road pedals can only be clipped-in on one side, whereas most MTB pedals have interfaces on either side of the pedal. Another major feature difference b/w road and MTB pedals as being single vs multi release shoe cleat. ",
"One of the main arguments for mountain bike pedals is the larger platform area. This allows toeclips to be fastened, even on both pedal sides. Mountain bike pedals also have a multi release shoe cleat. However, you should consider that road pedals are significantly lighter, which could lead to better performance. Regardless, it would be a good idea to take the terrain and road conditions into account, as they might make road pedals inappropriate for mountain biking."
]
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[
"One of the main arguments for mountain bike pedals is the larger platform area. This allows toeclips to be fastened, even on both pedal sides.",
"Mountain bike pedals have a multi release shoe cleat. ",
"You should consider that road pedals are significantly lighter, which could lead to better performance. More to the point, road bikes tend to have stiffer pedals, prioritizing efficiency over flexibility.",
"Road bikes tend to have stiffer pedals, prioritizing efficiency over flexibility.",
"It would be a good idea to take the terrain and road conditions into account, as they might make road pedals inappropriate for mountain biking."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, and road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc).",
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"text": "At a minimum what I do is: Daily : check tire air pressure.",
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"text": "Weekly :",
"label": [
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Check brake pad wear, tire wear, clean/wipe down entire bike",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "Monthly :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Check chain tension, chainring/cogs for wear, lube chain, adjust brakes, oil all pivot points on derailleurs, brakes etc.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
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},
{
"text": "Annually : complete tear down, inspection and reassembly with synthetic grease on all bearings.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32/M. Converse",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "My bike service guys wrote a blog article along these lines.",
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"text": "You may find it useful.",
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{
"text": "The article recommends four principals for basic bike care.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "These are Keep your tyres pumped If it lives outside, use it.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "An unused bike exposed to the elements will fairly quickly rust & seize up Lubricate - little & often, less is more Check your cables and bring back tension where needed",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/73/Kevin",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Being a big guy (~400lbs), I do a lot of damage to my bikes, so I check things more often and most of the time there isn't a problem.",
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"text": "It's just better to double check.",
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"text": "So as a result, here is my paranoid check schedule:",
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"text": "When needed: Brake fine adjust (at the lever to maintain feel).",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Chain lube.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Chain cleaning (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Clean disc brakes with rubbing alcohol.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Daily:",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Tire pressure by feel ( squeeeeze",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": ", it's like a hug for your tires!).",
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"text": "Brake feel (give it a good hard stab on my way out of the driveway).",
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],
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],
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"text": "Every 3 rides: Accurate tire pressure.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Weekly: Headset adjustment.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's a quick check, takes all of 30 seconds if it isn't out of adjustment.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "Monthly: Bottom bracket adjustment.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Chain clean.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Wheel bearing check.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Accessory tightness (is that rear rack still attached?).",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Lube rear cog bearings with chain lube.",
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
]
]
},
{
"text": "Every 3 months: Chain ring bolts.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Pedal bearings and make sure they're tight.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50/Jack M.",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Just to Add to the already good suggestions,If you bike at night, Weekly Check headlights/backlights and Replace batteries; especially if you have a older incandescent (ie Not LED)",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "light",
"label": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7417/Lyndon White",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This depends greatly on the type of bicycle: a Dutch type commuter bike requires very little maintenance.",
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"text": "Simply checking tire pressure weekly/monthly and maybe lubricating the chain once a year will keep it in good conditions for years (with minimal repairs needed).",
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"text": "The reason is that very few sensitive parts are exposed to weather and outside conditions: completely covering chaincase, internal hub gear, hub dynamo, etc.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "My feeling is that it does help a lot to store the bike inside or at least under a roof to better protect it from rusting.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7161/Jaap Eldering",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "What are the periodic maintenance tasks (weekly, monthly, annual, every X miles) that anyone who relies on a bike for transportation (typically in urban/semi-urban environments) should be performing? Ideally stated in terms of miles travelled (where applicable).",
"title": "Periodic Maintenance Task for Bike Commuters",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<maintenance><commuter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/89",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/63/noah"
} | 24_31 | [
[
" Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, the road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc) and the type of bike. The following checks are nevertheless recommended: Check brake pad wear, tire wear, clean/wipe down entire bike, headset adjustment weekly, visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment. clean the chain (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below) and clean the disc brakes with rubbing alcohol. ",
"The answer may vary depending on average ride duration, road conditions and bike model. It would be a good idea to adjust the brakes, apply lube and clean the chain and disc breaks only when necessary. However, it is recommended that you check the tire pressure and break feel daily, while it will suffice to check the tires and pads for wear, clean your bike, adjust your headset, and inspect the breaks for damages once a week. On a monthly basis you could inspect the chain tension, check the chain ring and cogs, adjust the brakes and the bottom bracket, lubricate, and oil, among other things. You could check your lights and cables, change batteries and chain ring bolts more periodically. This may also apply for lubrication. Finally, it is not necessary to tear down your bicycle for a full inspection more than once a year."
]
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[
"The answer may vary depending on average ride duration, road conditions and bike model.",
"It would be a good idea to adjust the brakes, apply lube and clean the chain and disc breaks only when necessary.",
"It is recommended that you check the tire pressure and break feel daily.",
"It will suffice to check the tires and pads for wear, clean your bike, adjust your headset, and inspect the breaks for damages once a week.",
"On a monthly basis you could inspect the chain tension, check the chain ring and cogs, adjust the brakes and the bottom bracket, lubricate, and oil, among other things.",
"You could check your lights and cables, change batteries and chain ring bolts more periodically. This may also apply for lubrication. ",
"It is not necessary to tear down your bicycle for a full inspection more than once a year."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Lubricate when needed.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I don't think it's possible to put a mile marker on when to lube.",
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{
"text": "I think most people add chain lube too often.",
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{
"text": "Too much can cause debris to build up on the chain.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Too little lube can cause unnecessary friction; but you'll know pretty quickly by the looks (and possibly sound) of it if you have too little lube.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Hints:",
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],
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{
"text": "Wipe your chain off before you addmore lube.",
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},
{
"text": "[*] Is the color black?",
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{
"text": "Is it greasy?",
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{
"text": "Wipe all that schmutz off until it'slooking dry.",
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},
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"text": "Add lube while rotating cranks.",
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{
"text": "Tips: Lube the night before you ride:",
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},
{
"text": "thisgives the lube a chance to 'spread'.",
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},
{
"text": "Wipe",
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},
{
"text": "the excess off immediatelybefore",
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"text": "you ride - but not until dryas above.",
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},
{
"text": "^",
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},
{
"text": "[*].",
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},
{
"text": "Wiping off the chain is best done in a work stand or while the bike is in a position where you can rotate the crankarm such that you can hold a rag to the chain while the chain is moving.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/87/42-17",
"score": 34
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Definitely lube the bike after cleaning the drivetrain, or after riding in the rain.",
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"text": "In terms of adding lube in between cleanings, every week or two should be fine, more often if the drivetrain is getting noisy.",
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"text": "Just a few drops of lube should be enough, unless you ride on very dirty roads.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would say that it is best to clean and lube your chain after every ride.",
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},
{
"text": "The better you maintain your chain the longer it will last.",
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"text": "To clean your chain you can either use a chain cleaning tool, I use this one from Park Tool which is excellent: The alternative is to put a SRAM powerlink in your chain: and remove your chain and clean it in with a solvent like paraffin (kerosene to Americans)",
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"text": "The choice of lubricant is also debatable, speak to someone at your LBS and get their recommendations for your riding conditions.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/126/Richard Tasker",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Every 150 miles sounds like an awful lot, but then I guess I don't cycle as much as you.",
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{
"text": "\"",
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{
"text": "Little & Often\" is the best advice I've heard.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/73/Kevin",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I ride 250KM a week",
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"text": "and I give it a squirt just before my long ride on the weekends.",
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"text": "You can't really damage it by over lubing the chain.",
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"text": "Sure if you store it inside too much lube can make the chain drip.",
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"text": "If you do it just before a ride then no dripping in the house.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I only lube after I clean the chain.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I ride around 100 miles per week on average.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "My bike has been holding up well over the years.",
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{
"text": "I clean and lube once every 2-3 weeks.",
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],
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32263/Mindcontrol",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a couple of different lubes.",
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{
"text": "One is for dry weather and is prone to washing off if it gets too much rain or puddle water on it, it's easy to tell when that needs replacing because you can hear it squeak.",
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"text": "The other one is a wet lube which I tend to use from autumn to spring",
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],
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"text": "but it's a lot stickier and even with a good wipe down after applying, it will collect dust, dirt and grime.",
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"text": "If I notice too much build-up it's time to clean and re-lube.",
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{
"text": "I will often clean with a rag, spray with GT-85 to displace water for a bit and then wipe down before applying lube as per the other posters' recommendations.",
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"text": "Leave for 2-5mins before wiping off the excess.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26481/Chris",
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}
}
] | {
"question": "I ride less than 200 miles a week, and I'm at about the 200 mile mark on my new road bike. Most of my riding is done on the road in an urban city, so there is a lot of odd, unnatural debris. My LBS told me to lube my chain every 150 miles, but I've read conflicting opinions. How often should I be lubing my chain?",
"title": "How often should I lube my chain?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chain><lubricant><road-bike>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/132",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/68/Russ Warren"
} | 24_32 | [
[
"General consensus seems to be lubricate a bike chain when needed. However, it should be lubed after cleaning and some recommend lubing after every ride.",
"A good idea would be to lubricate only when necessary, as too much lube may collect rubbish and too little may increase friction. Another option is to lubricate after cleaning the drivetrain and chain, even though some argue that more than once every week or two would be excessive. On the contrary, others suggest always lubricating after riding your bike."
]
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"A good idea would be to lubricate only when necessary, as too much lube may collect rubbish and too little may increase friction.",
"An option is to lubricate after cleaning the drivetrain and chain, even though some argue that more than once every week or two would be excessive.",
"Others suggest always lubricating after riding your bike."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A technique which may help you get a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called isolated leg .",
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"text": "With your bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes.",
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"text": "Then switch and do the same for your other leg.",
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},
{
"text": "This exercise will give a very natural feel to how your legs should be rotating to achieve an efficient pedaling stroke.",
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"text": "I was told to imagine that you are trying to scrape some mud off your foot.",
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"text": "As you pull down from about 1 O'Clock, just as you reach about 5 O'Clock, start to pull your foot back, pointing your toes towards the ground, like trying to scrape some mud off the front of your shoe.",
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"text": "I am not too sure where you should stop this pulling, but I would say it is about 8 O'Clock, since by that stage your other foot should be starting to put some pressure on the other crank.",
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"text": "Mountain Biking is the best thing.",
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"text": "Was just reading a training article by Chris Carmicheal (trained Lance Armstrong) and in studies he did mountain bikers had the best natural spin.",
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"text": "They figure it came from climbing on loose dirt while seated to make sure you had good traction.",
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"text": "Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot.",
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"text": "I do this once a week at the end of a ride.",
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"text": "Only for a block or two",
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"text": "but it really emphasizes the lack of pedaling in a circle.",
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"text": "I find that the best time to practice making good circular rotations is when I am completely out of gear (doing 20mph in the granny gear, for example).",
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"text": "I ride a single speed, so this is pretty easy for me.",
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"text": "Being out of gear allows me to feel how circular my movements really are.",
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"text": "If I'm not pulling back at the bottom of my stroke and then up the back side, I feel the bike lurching around under me.",
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"text": "This helped me, maybe it can help you as well.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50/Jack M.",
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"text": "I certainly am no expert but some things that helped me a set of rollers (not a stand/trainer) but rollers can help smooth your motion \"thinking in circles\" helps as well.",
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"text": "Visualize the foot/pedal motion",
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"text": "There are a couple tools (both quite expensive though) that can help.",
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"text": "It all comes down to muscle memory though, the more you spin the better you get at it.",
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"text": "Computrainer has a spin scan to help identify flat or dead spots in your cadence.",
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"text": "Powercranks force you into leg isolation by disconnecting the cranks from each other.",
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"text": "If you are after smoothness, then pulling up may improve your game.",
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"text": "The concept that you need to pull with the upward-bound leg/pedal is a myth that has been perpetrated because it feels good!",
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"text": "It may be worth doing, for that reason, alone. ;]",
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"text": "But experts have found that max power is generated when concentrating on the downward leg while completely unweighting the other until it returns to the top of the stroke.",
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"text": "In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues you are dealing with, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will def help you find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I got this trick off the Internet about ten years ago.",
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"text": "Can't remember where, I'm afraid, or I'd credit the source.",
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"text": "Imagine that your feet are really hands , and that you're not pedalling, but winding yourself along some kind of rack-and-pinion track.",
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"text": "Picture it, feel it, and keep that motion in mind as you pedal.",
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"text": "Our hands are much better equipped for the right kind of push-pull motion than our feet, so thinking of winding with your hands primes your motor cortex to keep a consistent amount of force round the whole revolution.",
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"text": "Stay vigilant: if you notice yourself going back to piston-pedalling, just think of hands again, and you'll soon make it a habit.",
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] | {
"question": "I couple of years ago I switched from using a normal pedal to using a clipless pedal. It takes a little while to get used to. Now, to be able to use it optimally I need to learn how to pedal in circles instead of in squares, eg applying the same force during the whole rotation \"orbit\". What do I need to think of to be able to pedal properly?",
"title": "How can I pedal in circles?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pedals><training><clipless>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/190",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29/Johan Dahlin"
} | 24_34 | [
[
"A number of exercises are recommended for improving pedal stroke. One technique which may help in getting a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called isolated leg . With the bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes. Then switch and do the same for your other leg. Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot. In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will definitely help find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke. ",
"A varied set of techniques might help you pedal in circles. These include exercises to isolate your legs, structured foot movements, hill repeats while using each foot in turn, and pulling up. It is also a good idea to practice with mountain biking or rollers to improve your motion. Moreover, there are some specialized tools available, like Computrainer and Powercranks. Finally, visualizing your feet as hands and moving them accordingly might help you approximate an even distribution of force round a circle."
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"A varied set of techniques might help you pedal in circles. These include exercises to isolate your legs, structured foot movements, hill repeats while using each foot in turn, and pulling up.",
"It is a good idea to practice with mountain biking or rollers to improve your motion.",
"There are some specialized tools available, like Computrainer and Powercranks.",
"Visualizing your feet as hands and moving them accordingly might help you approximate an even distribution of force round a circle."
]
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"text": "Saddle Bag",
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"text": "It may seem too small at first.",
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"text": "But check what I can fit in with my Specialized Saddle Bag : Two spare inner tube boxes Cell phone Keys Money Train travel card 3 tire levers Small toolset",
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"text": "I just picked up a Timbuk2 Handlebar Bag , and so far am loving it.",
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"text": "Has a nice velcro-down pouch, and attached to the bike via two velcro strips.",
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"text": "It is on the bike well enough to hold my daily lunch, u-lock, glasses and a few other things.",
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"text": "It also has straps to turn it into a fanny-pack style bag.",
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"text": "I actually just found this great bag that got high reviews.",
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"text": "Avenir Bigmouth Velcro Seat Bag .",
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"text": "This is large enough for my stuff and a few essential tools that were recommended here in this forum.",
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"text": "You might want to look into pannier bags (if you have a rack on the back of your bike).",
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"text": "There are all sorts of sizes, styles, and types of bags, including those large enough for groceries.",
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"text": "I got a pair from Walmart (I can't remember which brand) for about $25 that I use to commute to and from work.",
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"text": "They're big enough to carry all of my work clothes, lunch, and water plus some extra.",
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"text": "They're also water-resistant, which is nice when I get caught in a sudden rainstorm (happens a lot in Colorado).",
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"text": "I always have a spare ziploc bag to toss my phone into, just in case.",
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"text": "My bags hook on to the edge of the rack and have an elastic strap that runs around the bottom of the bag and the \"leg\" of the rack.",
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"text": "I have a set of bungie cords that strap everything down tight",
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"text": "It takes me about 30 seconds to take the bags off, and mine came with shoulder straps, which makes them easy to carry into the office.",
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"text": "Performance Bicycle has a nice selection of pannier-style bags .",
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"text": "I find that handlebar bags are the ultimate in convenience.",
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"text": "From your description, a medium-sized handlebar bag might do the trick if you can mount one.",
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"text": "I love my Ortlieb Ultimate handlebar bag , but it's not a cheap item; here are some others .",
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"text": "FOr maximum convenience, look for something that clips onto and off of the bike quickly.",
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"question": "I'm looking for one that attaches to your bike and easily detaches so you can take it with you. I usually ride with a small Timbuktu messenger style bag (really small, it's about the size of a large book) and I carry my wallet, phone, keys and stuff in it. Is there something for bikes so that I can easily attach and detach from the bike?",
"title": "What is a good small bicycle bag to store your gear and/or personal things?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<accessories><cargo><luggage>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/205",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/105/milesmeow"
} | 24_35 | [
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"Saddle bags, seat bags, pannier bags and handlebar bags are all recommended for carrying gear when cycling.",
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"text": "The answer to this question is different if you are going on a long-distance tour rather than going-to-work-and-back.",
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"text": "If on tour and facing the prospect of a struggle to do 30 miles when you really wanted to get 100 miles in (e.g. to get to next camp-site) it can be a better idea to not bother, sit out the wind and have a go later that day/evening or the next day.",
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"text": "The air in a valley will heat up on a sunny day and, as that air expands, it has to go somewhere.",
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"text": "This can lead to a tough headwind instead of an easy down-hill ride when going into the valley.",
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"text": "This process works in reverse, so, if planning a long distance ride and crossing valley systems it can be best to book a room in the town at the bottom of the valley rather than pitch a camp at the campsite near the top of the mountain pass.",
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"text": "Weather generally is more active during the day than at night so the best times for avoiding wind in a known windy place are early mornings and night.",
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"text": "Clearly this does not help if you are doing 9-5 but if you are doing other shift patterns then you might be able to choose your shifts so as to get a near-guaranteed tailwind in both directions, to work and to home.",
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"text": "If you have to ride into headwinds there are a few things you can do: Think of wind as water and imagine where the 'river of wind' is going to be slowest.",
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"text": "in the middle of the road the wind will not be slowed down, by the edges it will be slower, albeit marginally.",
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"text": "Hence, try to ride safe-yet-close to available fences and walls.",
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"text": "in that way you will 'not be swept away by the current'.",
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"text": "The sea also has an effect on wind - if following a coastal route try to find a route further inland.",
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"text": "The sea heats up differently to the land, this will have seasonal affects on prevailing wind direction.",
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"text": "Also bear in mind that most winds are from the west due to the turning of the planet.",
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"text": "it may not be full-aero-tuck, but, elbows in will make a difference to your overall drag.",
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"text": "You can also hold your handlebars a bit more in-board than you would do otherwise.",
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"text": "Roll with the punches.",
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"text": "If there is a gust of wind that is going to stop you in your tracks then you can ease up and put your pedal effort in when the gust has passed by.",
"label": [
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],
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"text": "Make sure you are not wearing a big balloon.",
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"text": "A skirt or a coat can act like a giant parachute - not what you need.",
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"text": "Much like how a parachute has a hole in the top to let the air out without undue turbulent effects, make sure your coat has an exit hole for the air driven in through the front.",
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{
"text": "Be seated.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "When out of the saddle you present a bigger frontal area.",
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"text": "Use your gears rather than getting out of the saddle to get your momentum up.",
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"text": "Sit low.",
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"text": "Tiredness helps to 'fall over the bars' and have a flat back.",
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"text": "Pretend you have been riding all day and adopt the flattened pose that you get then, with your legs spinning and your upper body relaxed.",
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"text": "Draft anything you can - other cyclists, motor vehicles such as buses pulling out can give small bits of aero benefit.",
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"text": "If the problem is persistent on your route consider getting a 20\" wheel folding bike.",
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"text": "This will have better aerodynamics than your MTB/hybrid, you can also fold it up and take the bus/train as far as you can towards your destination.",
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"text": "Also consider a saddlebag rather than a rucksack/panniers as saddlebags are the most aero bag option.",
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],
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{
"text": "If the headwinds are always against you and your job matters more than your home, consider moving to the other side of town so your commute is with the prevailing winds rather than against them.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 30
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},
{
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{
"text": "I deal with this at least once a week.",
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"text": "Yesterday I was going 18km and hour with a heart rate of 175bpm (normally that's 35+",
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{
"text": ").",
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],
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{
"text": "I get on the drops on my bar to reduce my wind profile.",
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"text": "I try to stay on less busy streets (normally I'm out in the farm area) because the side gusts will cause swerving.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Pay very close attention to what's behind you b/c of swerving.",
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"text": "Get in an easy gear and spin it out.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Head winds are great 'hill like' training.",
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"text": "Don't ever get a disc wheel since the added surface area will just make it worse in cross-winds.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30/curtismchale",
"score": 26
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some suggestions: Stay in lower gears and cycle at a higher cadence .",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
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"text": "Using lower gear will help you to maintain momentum when hit by gust full on, and to retain control when hit by crosswind gust.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Keep a low profile Avoid baggy clothes",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Find a cycling partner and share",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "slip streaming",
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],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/73/Kevin",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I do my best to tack.",
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"text": "Kind of like a sail boat.",
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"text": "For example If I'm riding in the city and the winds are from the south I'll ride a mile or so south and then head east for a block or so to catch a break, head south for a mile or so and then head west a bit to catch a break.",
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"text": "It sure lengthens the ride but it can be good to get the short recovery periods.",
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],
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"text": "If it's on bike paths or trails",
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"text": "I just stay low and grind it out.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/9/Mike Two",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Perhaps a bit drastic, but I've found wind much less of a problem after moving to a recumbent (for obvious reasons).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One approach is to just accept that you won't be able to ride as fast as in still air and slow down a bit!",
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"text": "Its certainly more enjoyable than battling hard against a head wind, especially if you aren't feeling so good and not in a hurry.",
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{
"text": "This, as well as some other tips, are included in this article: http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/technique/six-ways-to-bear-a-headwind.html",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1582/Andy",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "I happen to live in a windy climate. I often find myself riding against strong headwinds and sudden gusts seemingly coming from all directions at once. What are your tactics for riding in such conditions?",
"title": "Tactics for riding in strong winds",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<weather><wind>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/347",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/122/Tadeusz A. Kadłubowski"
} | 24_37 | [
[
"Probably the best solution to strong winds is to wait until they calm down. However, if cycling is necessary there are a few tips to follow to stay safe. Keeping a low profile and avoid baggy clothing to reduce drag. Staying in a low gear and pedalling faster helps to avoid being stalled by a sudden wind. Keeping away from busy streets helps avoid accidents caused by being knocked off course. ",
"If the commute is not necessary, you might want to wait for the wind to subside. If it is, a strategy for driving in such weather conditions would be to visualize the wind and adjust your cycling accordingly. Try to minimize your exposure to the wind, keep away from gusts in busy streets, keep your head low, wear appropriate clothing and tack. In technical terms, lower gears and a higher cadence will help stabilize you against the wind. You could also use an alternative vehicle that is better for such conditions, such as a recumbent. From a psychological perspective, you should accept that your ride will take longer. "
]
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"If the commute is not necessary, you might want to wait for the wind to subside.",
"A strategy for driving in such weather conditions would be to visualize the wind and adjust your cycling accordingly. Try minimizing your exposure to the wind, keep away from gusts in busy streets, keep your head low, wear appropriate clothing and tack.",
"You could use an alternative vehicle that is better for such conditions, such as a recumbent.",
"From a psychological perspective, you should accept that your ride will take longer.",
"In technical terms, lower gears and a higher cadence will help stabilize you against the wind."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For long rides of 1-3 hours, I carry the following: Tube + mini pump",
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"text": "(CO^2 if you want, tire leavers for new or difficult tires)",
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"text": "Mini tool with allen keys, spoke key and a chain tool Water Snack For longer trips, you'll want to consider panniers (carry bags) and a hydration pack so you'll be able to carry the load more effectively.",
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],
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"text": "In general, advice on backpacking trips should apply.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/153/Dana the Sane",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would take the following on a ride (mtb): Pump Tube Puncture repair kit Multitool Tyre levers Cable ties Duct tape Tyre boot material Derailleur hanger for your bike Mobile phone Cash and/or credit card Food and water (depending on length) There are also a few small things that I normally take,",
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},
{
"text": "that are necessary on long/remote rides:",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "SRAM powerlink Chainring bolt Cleat bolt Whistle If you are riding with a partner you can share the spares between you.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/126/Richard Tasker",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I typically ride with the following list - some of it",
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],
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"text": "I take out depending on the ride and how well travelled the trails are:",
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"text": "water cliff bars/granola bars extra tube(s) tire irons patch kit mini pump multi tool pocket knife butterfly bandage ace bandage zip ties light",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/67/Geoff",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The lists are missing a chain tool.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I needed one once.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Also helped someone else out once.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37/Tim",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For every ride I take: A multitool with allen keys and a chain tool Spare tubes (at least 2) Tyre Levers Pump Instant Puncture Patches (mine are from Park Tools).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'd always use my spare tubes first though Plenty of water/energy drink",
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],
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{
"text": "My phone, keys, and wallet Unless I know the area very well I'll also have relevant maps and a compass, and my GPS.",
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If I'm going somewhere remote, or for a day ride, I also take: Food (more than I will need, and some energy bars) First aid kit (geared towards cuts/bruises and breaks/dislocations) Whistle Spare batteries for anything that needs them Waterproof jacket and, in cold seasons, warm clothes",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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2
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},
{
"text": "A headtorch if there's any chance that it'll get dark while I'm out",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/127/Martynnw",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Definitely a chain tool.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "And make sure it's a decent one and that you know how to use it.",
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"text": "This, more than any other tool has saved me from a long walk home while I've been out riding the trails.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "With one you're on your way in 5-10 minutes.",
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"text": "Without one you're walking or, if you're lucky, rolling downhill.",
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"text": "It's also a really good idea to carry either a headlamp of have a light fitted on your bike if you're riding in the evening.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "If you get lost or have a breakdown and spend more time than you planned you'll be glad you have this one as well.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2265/Earl",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I ride large group rides in France.",
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"text": "Basic tools are great, but I need to use my First Aid kit more than my bike repair kit.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
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"text": "A small kit should be the minimum.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Riding partner took a bad ride over the handle bars.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "He broke his shoulder.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "One arm sling cloth, an Ace bandage, geo coordinates from my Garmin, and a simple phone call to my wife did the trick.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "She was able to come to within 100 meters of the fall to pick him up.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "Each of those items made it possible for a quick extraction.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Fossdog",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3177/Lyndal Foss",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "All types of biking, mountain biking in particular: what are some must have items/gear to keep with oneself on mountain biking trips? I'm think of items such as extra inner tube, bike pump, etc...What products or items do you use? Specifics would be helpful, thanks!",
"title": "What is must-have gear for mountain biking?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><product-rec><accessories><parts>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/368",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/94/studiohack"
} | 24_38 | [
[
"A small tool kit, water and food, first aid kit, a light, a whistle, waterproof jacket and warm clothes are all items recommended for taking on a mountain bike trip.",
"Mountain biking may require varied equipment, including a tube, a mini pump, different keys, carry bags and a chain tool. A lamp could also be useful. Besides the necessary bike gear, you could bring food, batteries and clothing. A First Aid kit is also absolutely necessary."
]
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"Mountain biking may require varied equipment, including a tube, a mini pump, different keys, carry bags and a chain tool. A lamp could also be useful.",
"Besides the necessary bike gear, you could bring food, batteries and clothing.",
"A First Aid kit is absolutely necessary."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Before you take any more forceful measures, it may be a good idea to think a little about chemistry: 'Rust' is typically the name put on any type of corrosion, but technically & specifically, it is the corrosion of iron (or steel) to form iron-oxides.",
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"text": "Although your bicycle is most definitely steel, your seatpost is not -- it's aluminum-alloy, which does not 'rust', but definitely corrodes (creating aluminum oxide).",
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"text": "WD-40 is a penetrating oil which is designed to, amongst other things, break up iron-oxides.",
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"text": "However, it is pretty much useless against aluminum-oxides, especially when they have already corroded & bonded.",
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"text": "Ammonia, however, is spectacularly good at eliminating aluminum-oxides.",
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"text": "Therefore, if WD-40 isn't doing the trick, get some ammonia, apply it in a similar fashion, and let it sit.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "It may just be all you need!",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23/Dustin Ingram",
"score": 20
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is a tough one.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "It's not impossible",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "but you really need mechanical advantage.",
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0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "If you can clamp the seatpost, you will get the best chance at freeing this.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You will probably damage/lose the seatpost with this method.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Make sure the seatpost is free ofgrease and oil on the outside.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Turn the frame upside down and clampthe seatpost into a bench vise.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Spray",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "WD-40 into the seattube fromthe bottom bracket opening.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It will probably be dripping rusty coloredoil out the top of the seat tube (which is now facing the floor - you might want to put something to catch the oil under there.).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Carefully hold the head tube and therear stays and try to rotate theframe on the post.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Work",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "it slowly and carefully beingsure not to bend the stays!",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "* Make sure the seat post is notrotating in the vise (if so, clamptighter)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This process can take some time.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You will need patience and lots of WD-40.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Eventually, the post will rotate in the seat tube and you will be able to work it out.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "*",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The trick is knowing how much force to apply.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes you need more than you think and sometimes you apply more than you need (which results in unwanted damage).",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "This difference comes with experience.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Oh",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "and also: grease the new seatpost well before you put it back in",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "- you'll appreciate it later.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/87/42-17",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You should check out the 15 Way To Unstick a Seatpost by Sheldon \"Unggggghhh!\"",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1493/Aleksandr Levchuk",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Untested and at-your-own-risk, but this is what I would try: Soak the rusted join with WD-40 from above and below (ie.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "flip the frame and spray down the seat tube).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Let it sit for a few hours or overnight.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Secure the frame against something solid, like a heavy workbench (not a repair stand!).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Put an old saddle you don't care much about on the seat post.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hit the side of the saddle's nose with a hammer or mallet.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use short, hard taps -- using wild swings you're liable to hurt yourself or the frame.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The idea is to use the torque of the saddle to break the bond between the post and the frame.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You don't need to move the post much.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the post moves, then you should be able to work it loose without the hammer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it doesn't, then worst case you've destroyed an old saddle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Cut the top off of the tube then carefully use a hacksaw blade inside the seat post to cut toward the seat tube.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "A handle for a hacksaw blade works or just wrap the plain blade with a bit of tape to make a handle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "You should then be able to free the old seat post.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Or does the seat post extend way down into the frame?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Even then this should help as the WD-40 will get a better chance to reach the lower parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/112/John Dyer",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "At the non-profit workshop, where I volunteer, we sometimes ream out the old Seatpost enough to stick in another, smaller-diameter Seatpost.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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},
{
"text": "Especially if you don't care too much about aestetics and the seized seatpost reaches deep into the frame(at least 8-10cm, preferably more) this might be a viable option to just make the bike rideable again.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "If it is less, you might be able to saw a slice out of the old seatpost(would have to be all the way into the downtube of the frame) and the crush the compromised tube with vise-grips.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "In my experience, seized seatpost and their removability often boil down to how much effort and time one is willing to invest.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39007/MTTI",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had this problem with a very stubborn seat post (turns out there was a wedge in it to keep the post in).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "One thing that I tried was putting a blow torch on the frame to try and expand it a bit to get the post out and loosen any corrosion.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I would only try this after WD40 has failed.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Disclaimer: this may damage your bike",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "there is aerosol spray available at most hardware stores called PB Blaster",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "it is much more effective when dealing with rust than WD=40",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2192/mikes",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Try put your seatpost / saddle on the vise ( reverse the bike ) then rotate the frame for pulling out the seatpost, put WD-40 or other lubricant for before you do it....",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3189/Rick Ant",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have an old steel frame (Columbus Number 2 I think) that has the seat post (Suntour Superbe Pro - see, I said it was old!) rusted in. I have tried lots of WD-40 but it will not budge. Any tips on how I can get it out without having to cut the frame up?",
"title": "Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<frames><seatpost><rust>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/418",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K"
} | 24_41 | [
[
"To remove a rusted seat post use WD-40 or ammonia and leave to sit. Then clamp the seat post and rotate the fame to pull out the rusted seat post.",
"It would be a good idea to start with applying a lubricant, such as WD-40, or ammonia if that fails. To remove the seat, you could try turning the bike upside down, clamping the post and rotating it. Moreover, consider using a blade within the seat post to free the way towards the tube. It is also possible to insert a smaller seat post in the old one. Finally, you could try using a blow torch to expand the frame and subsequently remove the post"
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
4
] | [
[
"It would be a good idea to start with applying a lubricant, such as WD-40, or ammonia if that fails.",
"To remove the seat, you could try turning the bike upside down, clamping the post and rotating it.",
"Consider using a blade within the seat post to free the way towards the tube.",
"It is possible to insert a smaller seat post in the old one.",
"You could try using a blow torch to expand the frame and subsequently remove the post."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The tread on a road bike's tires is really quite unimportant and purely cosmetic.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Road bike tires have tread patterns because they sell better, not because they perform better.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's some questions to ask to decide about replacing a tire:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Can you see any of the fabric?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Are you getting flats more easily than you used to?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Is any part of the tire bulging out or lumpy?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Are there visible holes/gashes in the tire?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Does the wear indicator indicate you should replace?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Some tires have dimples or grooves that are there to indicate when the tire should be replaced.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some have an alternate color of rubber underneath, and when that shows through the tire should be replaced)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Smooth tread is actually ideal for road conditions, but not commonly found on tires.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're on hard surfaces such as pavement/asphalt, the tread doesn't help you and actually slightly reduces contact area and increases rolling resistance.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "On most road tires the minimal tread pattern is just cosmetic to make their customers feel better (since a smooth tire looks slippery).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "See also:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sheldon Brown's comments on tire replacement and tread patterns If you plan to ride through mud, sand or other soft surfaces, you need tread.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So when you no longer have tread on your mountain bike or cyclocross bike's tires, it's time to replace them (unless you plan to only use them on the road).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit",
"score": 45
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Many road tyres would have wear indicator .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Usually that would be a small hollow on the tread.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As long as it is visible the tyre is ok, once it is gone, the tyre should be replaced as that indicates that the main rubber layer is worn out, the grip is no longer that good",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and it may not be safe to ride.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/83/kristof",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For the last two worn-out road tires I replaced, I've noticed a pattern in wear that seems to be fairly consistent.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This isn't a large sample size, but the tires were from different brands, and the wear seemed consistent with various comments I've seen from others.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Based on your own tradeoff between cost- and safety-consciousness, you have to decide at which stage in the wear process you need to replace the tire.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "First, the tread (if present) begins to wear.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Not all road tires have tread, and in most cases it's purely cosmetic.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Then, the tire develops a flattened, almost squared-off shape instead of the round shape that a new tire has.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Next, the tire starts getting a lot of small cuts in a short period of time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This doesn't necessarily mean there are flats or that the cuts are deep.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(After removing the tire, I could more easily see that the outermost layer of rubber was extremely thin and beginning to delaminate.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This explains why I was seeing so many small cuts.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Finally, the outermost layer of rubber wears through and threads begin to appear.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "By this point, the tire is definitely unsafe.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This process might not be exactly the same for all tire models, but I've noticed it in several of them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Of course, even a new tire should be replaced if it develops any signs of trauma as discussed in other answers (bulges, cracks, or gashes), or if the frequency of punctures increases.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3649/amcnabb",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I replace my tyres when i start to get a lot of punctures.",
"label": [
1
],
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},
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"text": "With new tyres, i rarely get punctures, despite what i see that i cycle over.",
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-1
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"text": "after some time, and wear, i suddenly start getting a lot of punctures.",
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"text": "As a hypothetical that doesnt happen: If i dont get any punctures and i start to see the tyre fibers coming through, its definiely time to replace the tyre.",
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"text": "I know it meets no manufacturers or performance guidelines, but its a method that requires absolutely no monitoring and lets me get all the life i can out of the tyre.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10999/497362",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Rubber degrades over time due to ultraviolet light damage and oxidation.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Old tires where the rubber looks dried out with lots of cracking or rubber coming away from the fabric carcass should be replaced.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "The treads on my road bike's 28C tires are almost completely gone—they only persist along the shoulders of the tire. Do the treads matter? What is a good indicator of when the tire as a whole needs to be replaced?",
"title": "How do I know when to replace my tires?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><road-bike>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/437",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17/Drew Stephens"
} | 24_42 | [
[
"Tread is not a reliable indicator of wear on road bikes as it is for purely cosmetic purposes. On mountain bikes, however, once the tread is gone, it is time to replace them. On road bikes look to signs of wear or change tire if punctures are happening frequently.",
"Some people argue that worn treads mean you should replace your tires. However, treads are not necessarily a decisive indicator, as they are often cosmetic and many models have discarded them. Regardless, it is recommended that you change your tires if they have signs of wear or damage, including frequent punctures. You could also advise your tires' wear indicator, if any."
]
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[
"Some people argue that worn treads mean you should replace your tires. However, treads are not necessarily a decisive indicator, as they are often cosmetic and many models have discarded them.",
"It is recommended that you change your tires if they have signs of wear or damage, including frequent punctures.",
"You could advise your tires' wear indicator, if any."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Some are 'ergo' and have a right and left hood so make sure that you watch for right and left hoods.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "If you can't get a replacement hood, try making one yourself.",
"label": [
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"text": "Here I have stretched a section of 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 inner tube over the brake lever.",
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"text": "The inner tube fits better if you cut off the tip of the \"horn\" of the aero levers.",
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"text": "With these Shimano Exage Action BL-A351 levers you can slip the edge of the rubber under the plastic front of the lever to help hold it in place.",
"label": [
0
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],
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"text": "The lump at the bottom of the dip in the brake lever is caused by a metal tab.",
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"text": "I'd cover that with a leftover piece of padded handlebar tape before adding the inner tube.",
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"text": "To avoid the seams on the surface of the rubber, try turning the inner tube inside out.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6686/Gordon H.",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "before you do anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag. if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before.",
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"text": "i use mine for over 5yrs+ its very scratched now but still don't need to replace.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I think the first thing you should do is take the hoods off the bars.",
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},
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"text": "Usually there is a screw or an allen key that will loosen the hood on the bar.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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"text": "On my hoods this is only viable when the break leaver is pulled down.",
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"text": "After you loosen this screw you should be able to slide the hoods along and off the bar.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "(You might need to remove the tape).",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option \"hack\" is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
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"text": "You can use electrician's tape to hold the last end and stop the tape from unraveling.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I commute daily on a road bike with Shimano Tiagra STI shifter/brake levers. The rubber hoods are pretty grimy and getting sticky, torn up and unpleasant these days. Repair and replacement of pretty much everything on my bike seems very straight-forward, but I can't figure out if these parts can even be replaced, much less how to do it. Ideas?",
"title": "How do I replace road bike hoods?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><road-bike><shifter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/441",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20/kc-bike"
} | 24_43 | [
[
"Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever. If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option \"hack\" is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body. before doing anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag. if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before. ",
"A simple solution would be to remove the old hood and thread a new one over the brakes. In case you cannot find a new hood as a replacement, consider making a new one or covering the lever with tape. Nevertheless, you could likely order a new hood from a bike shop or website, even though this option is expensive. "
]
] | {
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[
"A simple solution would be to remove the old hood and thread a new one over the brakes.",
"In case you cannot find a new hood as a replacement, consider making a new one or covering the lever with tape.",
"You could likely order a new hood from a bike shop or website, even though this option is expensive. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Tire pressure is generally a trade-off between three things: Rolling resistance (more pressure ==",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
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"text": "rolls easier)",
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},
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"text": "Pinch flat resistance (more pressure ==",
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],
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"text": "less chance for the tube to tear when a rock squashes the tire toward the rim)",
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"text": "Grip (with less pressure, the tire can conform better to rocks, roots, and other terrain giving a larger contact surface) If you are riding terrain where grip isn't too much of an issue (flat or low-angle dirt and dry rocks for example), then higher pressure will keep you going fast without pinch flatting.",
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"text": "If you are riding steep downhills and/or on slippery open rock outcroppings, grip will be more important than rolling resistance, so use as little pressure as won't pinch-flat quickly.",
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"text": "There is a 4th trade-off as well: weight.",
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},
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"text": "You can buy double-sidewall downhill tires that allow you to run very low pressures (such as 25psi) without any danger of pinch-flatting, but these can weigh almost double what normal cross-country tires do.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "As mentioned in other answers, your tires don't have to be the same pressure.",
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"text": "Usually grip is more important on the front tire since most of your weight is on it while descending difficult downhill sections.",
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"text": "Similarly, when riding on flat or climbing, most of your weight is over the back tire, so rolling resistance and pinch-flat resistance are more important for the back.",
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"text": "I personally ride with a low-pressure",
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"text": "(30psi in a tire rated 35-65psi) double-sidewall downhill tire on the front and with a higher pressure",
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"text": "(50psi in a tire rated 45-65psi) cross-country tire on the rear.",
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"text": "I sacrifice some weight, but otherwise get the best of both worlds: fabulous grip going down and easy rolling on the flats and climbs.",
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"text": "Use your best judgment in going below the rated pressure of the tire, as pinch flats become more likely.",
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[
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"text": "If you go below the rated pressure, be sure to test it out on hard impacts (such as a rock-corner) on easy terrain before throwing yourself at high speed down a mountain where a blow-out would be catastrophic.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/167/Adam Franco",
"score": 31
}
},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Generally run what the tire says.",
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"text": "If you know the terrain is slick rock or really loose and will require more contact between the tire and the surface then make them a bit softer.",
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"text": "This will increase the chance of pinch flats though so be careful.",
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"text": "I almost always run my front tire a bit softer than my back since most of my weight is on the back tire.",
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"text": "Just something I've found that I prefer.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It really depends on that the trails are like as well as your weight.",
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"text": "If you are riding really flowy trails with few obstacles, jumps, or drops, you can probably ride a bit under 25psi if you are light.",
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"text": "THis will give you significantly more traction and control.",
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"text": "If you are riding trails with jumps and drops, you will want to air it up more.",
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"text": "With rockier trails, you will want to ride at a higher psi to avoid pinch flats.",
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"text": "These are the kinds of trails that I typically ride and I usually go with 30 - 35 psi in the front and 35 - 40 psi in the back.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/67/Geoff",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would say that you should run the lowest pressure you can without the tyre rolling off the rim on corners or burping on rocks.",
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"text": "The assumption that harder tyres have less rolling resistance is not necessarily true, here is a study showing the opposite.",
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{
"text": "[updated link, if it breaks again, search Google for \"Rolling Resistance Eng Illustrated\".",
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"text": "The document was originally written by Schwalbe Tires]",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/126/Richard Tasker",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I agree with the other answers, but my strategy is to run the lowest pressure I can while consistently avoiding pinch flats.",
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"text": "There's too many variables to come up with a general answer (bodyweight, trail type, tire manufacturer), but I find that something in the mid-30's is safe for me (200+lbs, xc race courses).",
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"text": "If you want to play it safe, find a safe pressure and add 2-3 psi.",
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"text": "Also, always check your tire pressure, taking the few minutes before most rides keeps you riding longer.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/153/Dana the Sane",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A tip my friend showed me at the weekend was to take to take a wheel and find a pointy rock.",
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"text": "Lean all your weight gently onto the wheel.",
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"text": "If the wheel doesn't hit the pointy rock then you're not likely to suffer from a pinch flat.",
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"text": "If the rock easily touches the rim then the pressure is too low.",
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},
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"text": "This should account for a number of critical variables such as the volume of the tyre and the weight of the rider and the reasoning that you'll hit the rock at speed or on one wheel only (normally each wheel only takes 1/2 your weight).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/147/davefiddes",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some very good answers, but I think it's also worth saying that the sidewall gives a maximum not suggested pressure on all the bike tyres I've seen.",
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"text": "The only time I ever run my mountain bike tyres at their maximum is if I'm riding on the road and in a hurry.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/825/Duncan McGregor",
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"sents": [
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"text": "None of the answers mention tubeless tires.",
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"text": "A tubeless tires has no tube so no tube to pinch.",
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"text": "The primary purpose of tubeless is for lower pressure.",
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"text": "Need both tubeless rims (wheels) and tubeless tires.",
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},
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"text": "Can get conversion kits for regular rims.",
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"text": "Tubeless comes in fully tubeless and tubeless ready.",
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"text": "With tubeless ready you need to use a liquid sealant.",
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"text": "Tubeless ready is a more common.",
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}
] | {
"question": "Should I run my mountain bike at the suggested PSI/Bar on the tire/rim? Or should I run it a bit lower? Or is it more about conditions? Should I run lower if I am running on softer terrain?",
"title": "What pressure should I run my Mountain Bike tires at?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><tire>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/471",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/97/Dan McClain"
} | 24_45 | [
[
"There is no general rule for tire pressure on a mountain bike. It really depends on the type of trail you are riding, rider's body weight and tire manufacturer. A general tip is lower pressure where more grip is required. However, care must be taken not to go too low with the pressure.",
"Tire pressure may depend on a number of factors, including grip, slope and road quality. In general, more steep and even routes require lower pressure, while the opposite applies for rocky trails, or roads with obstacles. While there is not a single answer, identifying a safe pressure for your bike and adding 2-3 psi might be a good idea. You could also try riding with the lowest possible pressure that does not affect the tire rim or corners, keeping in mind the increased possibility of pinch flats. Finally, you could follow the manufacturer's instructions on the tire."
]
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"Tire pressure may depend on a number of factors, including grip, slope and road quality. In general, more steep and even routes require lower pressure, while the opposite applies for rocky trails, or roads with obstacles.",
"While there is not a single comprehensive answer, identifying a safe pressure for your bike and adding 2-3 psi might be a good idea.",
"Consider following the manufacturer's instructions on the tire.",
"You could try riding with the lowest possible pressure that does not affect the tire rim or corners, keeping in mind the increased possibility of pinch flats."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've seen quite a few older people in my city riding around on 3 wheeled bikes, similar to the ones shown here .",
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"text": "They offer quite a bit of stability, without making you low to the ground like a recumbent.",
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"text": "However, I can't think of how you would get one into a car.",
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"text": "Getting a regular bike into a car is hard enough, have you thought about a roof rack?",
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"text": "You almost might want to look into stabilizer wheels which can be attached to any bike, and you may be able to find some that are removable for transportation.",
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"text": "Check out the Hase Pino .",
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"text": "Tandem Bike, but built to let a recumbent rider get a full view from the front, without having to steer or balance, while the captain can sit upright with the same awesome view.",
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"text": "There's accessories for seatbelts or handcranks, if that's your thing.",
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"text": "Also, the newest models fold in the middle, so they can fit in a trunk.",
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"text": "On the other hand, mine doesn't fold, but it's short enough that I can just put it on a trunk rack.",
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"text": "Your best bet is probably a recumbent trike.",
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"text": "Of course this does bring up the transportation issue.",
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"text": "You could look at getting a roof rack or rear platform for the car which could negate the transportation issue.",
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"text": "Another thought would be a tandem.",
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"text": "If you can balance enough to keep you both up and she can manage not to fall off.",
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"text": "Again this brings up transportation as you'd have to have a big car (truck really) to get a tandem inside.",
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"text": "Really I'd look at the recumbent and roof racks.",
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"text": "You really should read Shelton Brown's site: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/",
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"text": "He was a great resource for the bike community (RIP) and you have some common threads with him.",
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"text": "He talks about tandeming, which would be an option for you.",
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"text": "A note on the bike having to fit in the car, it is possible to get racks for the tandem, it doesn't have to be transported in the car.",
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"text": "www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem/index.html",
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"text": "The other option that Shelton Brown can also speak to is the trike.",
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"text": "He had one before he died and has an write-up on it.",
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"text": "www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/ Cheers,Chris",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I found a long list here (I don't know how good or recent it is, but it is quite long, and pan-national): Where to Find A Four-Wheeled Bike or Tricycle .",
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"text": "The various sellers might tell you whether/how it's possible to transport them by car.",
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"text": "There are also second-level links, for example one of the links is to http://www.roman-road.co.uk/ which then links to http://www.tricycleassociation.org.uk/",
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"sents": [
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"text": "My sister works in Cardiff and one of her part time jobs is working with severally mentally disabled adults.",
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"text": "She often takes them out on specially adapted bicycles/tricycles which in Cardiff there are a lot of trails and tracks to enable them to get around.",
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"text": "Although this does not directly meet your requirements of fitting into your van they do offer other sort of mobility bikes which you can read more about the kind of bikes that are provided here: http://www.cardiffpedalpower.org/",
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] | {
"question": "My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me? We don't own a van, the size of any \"bike\" is important as it will have to fit in a car.",
"title": "My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><tricycle><transport-by-car>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/512",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian"
} | 24_46 | [
[
"Tandem bikes, recumbents, trikes, the Hase Pino and recumbent trikes are options for partners who cannot ride a two wheel bike. A roof rack would probably be needed for transporting these.",
"A good option might be a Tandem bike, such as Hase Pino. Tandem bikes are easy to balance and allow full view. They are accompanied by accessories, while certain models fold and can be transferred in a car. You might also want to consider a recumbent trike. In this context, a way to solve the transportation issue would be to add a roof rack on your car."
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"A way to solve the transportation issue would be to add a roof rack on your car.",
"A good option might be a Tandem bike, such as Hase Pino. Tandem bikes are easy to balance and allow full view. They are accompanied by accessories, while certain models fold and can be transferred in a car. ",
"You might want to consider a recumbent trike."
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Getting a high safety flag is common on recumbents (and trailers), at least in the US.",
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"text": "Photo credit",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Sorry for the late answer.",
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"text": "The solution is to persuade your wife that she will be seen.",
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"text": "Obviously you can make the bike more visible, as the other answers suggest, but this is probably an emotional issue rather than a reasoned one.",
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"text": "She feels less visible on the recumbent.",
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"text": "The solution to the feeling is not so much reasoned argument as it is to start riding and focus on riding in places that she feels safe.",
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"text": "Try to balance that against being exposed to motorists, so look for quiet back streets and places where bike paths cross roads.",
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"text": "Avoid car parks because those are insanely dangerous even if they're low-speed.",
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"text": "If she doesn't have a recumbent yet, a velomobile might also help.",
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"text": "The combination of feeling somewhat enclosed and actually being surrounded by a huge blob of colour does wonders.",
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"text": "Not to mention the (almost always positive) comments the velo gets.",
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"text": "Faling that, a tailbox is a useful addition - it provides storage as well as a block of colour.",
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"text": "I've never had a car not see me, who would have seen a bicycle.",
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"text": "That said, it's crucial to bike safely and to stay where the cars are looking: in the street, not the gutter or sidewalk.",
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"text": "I also use a flag and reflectors.",
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"text": "I particularly like reflectors on my body and helmet, since we perceive body motion more easily than machine (straight line) motion.",
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"text": "That said, flags don't help the worst visibility problem: when a car is approaching from a side street and not looking in your lane.",
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"text": "Your front gears may be the only part visible, and they blend in at night.",
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"text": "You need to grab that car's attention, so I have reflective tape all over the sides of my pedals.",
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"text": "Overall, you are probably going to be safer on a recumbent than a conventional upright bike.",
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"text": "Remember, a conventional bike can be hidden by vans and buses.",
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"text": "The key thing, in my limited experience, is to stay well out of the gutter.",
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"text": "Refuse to be intimidated by cars behind wanting you out of the way.",
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"text": "Make sure you are where you can be seen.",
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"text": "For instance, if two cars facing each other are turning right (across the road in the UK), just hang back away from the curb.",
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"text": "I'd add that getting reflectors and a flashing tail light, along with some sort of front flasher, will increase visibility.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Get a really high and visible safety flag.",
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"text": "Remember that as a recumbent rider you'll quickly grow a large stomach and beard to cushion you from car impacts.",
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"question": "My wife thinks that she can't use a recumbent on the roads, as a car driver will not be able to see it. What’s the solution?",
"title": "As recumbents are low to the ground and hard to see, how to you use one safely on a normal road?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><recumbent>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/514",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian"
} | 24_47 | [
[
"There are a number of ways to make yourself more visible on a recumbent including flags, reflectors on the rider and the bike and a tailbox. It is probably best to ride on quiter streets and stay away from the gutter and car parks. Confidence is important.",
"The solution might be psychological. Try riding where you feel safe, hold your ground and stay positive. It would be a good idea to avoid dangerous areas, such as busy streets, motorist lanes, car parks and gutters. You could also try increasing your visibility with flags, reflectors, a flashing tail light and a front flasher. It is recommended that you drive where other vehicles can see you. Finally, it is possible to try an alternative vehicle, such as a velomobile, or add a tailbox."
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"The solution might be psychological. Try riding where you feel safe, hold your ground and stay positive.",
"It would be a good idea to avoid dangerous areas, such as busy streets, motorist lanes, car parks and gutters.",
"You could try increasing your visibility with flags, reflectors, a flashing tail light and a front flasher. It is recommended that you drive where other vehicles can see you.",
"It is possible to try an alternative vehicle, such as a velomobile, or add a tailbox."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine.",
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"text": "If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these.",
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"text": "The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't buy the glue-less ones.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/67/Geoff",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've use glueless patches for a number of tube repairs and have found them to be just as durable as the glued patches.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Slime scabs suck as a permanent repair.",
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"text": "I think they would be fine for a temporary repair, because that is about how long they last.",
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"text": "Self vulcanizing cement and regular patches are still the best way to go.",
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"text": "I still have some scabs, but will only use them in an emergency, or when I patch my ex girlfriends tubes.",
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"text": "I have used the stick on patches.",
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"text": "The durability is conditional with proper installation.1-scuff the tube2-try and have the tube the same size as the inside of the tire.3-after placing the patch on the tube take a smooth object and rub air out from under the patch.",
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"text": "This is the most important step!",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5473/R. McWilliams",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Glueless patches are to get you home, and glued patches are for the permanent repair once you make it home.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "Personally, I carry a spare tube and glueless patches, and at home I have a nice glue kit.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "The glue kits actually bind the patch to the intertube, where the glueless stick on top over the puncture.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "That being said, I've had glueless patches stay on until I tossed the tube.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28/Jared Harley",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "No!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Still the same experience as a few years ago.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Don't bother wasting your money on them (again).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My experience has been that sometimes they don't even get you home before needint to be reapplied.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Carry a spare tube and if you get a flat, take it home with you and patch it with a glue patch, or carry one of the small glue patch kits with you if you are flat prone.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2598/joelmdev",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I do carry them with me",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "but I've never patched on the road -- I always carry a fresh tube instead since most of my flats happen in wet conditions.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "But I've occasionally used \"glueless\"",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(they're actually pre-glued) patches from the comfort of home",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "and they've turned out fine.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I bought some once.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Never again.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The problem is that if you patch once, then have to patch again, the first patch crinkles when the tube deflates and then develops a leak because the patches don't stretch with the tube.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3088/802bikeguy.com",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use the Park GP-2 patch kit and have found them extremely durable, lasting the lifetime of the tube.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is with 28-32mm tires and pressures up to 90 PSI or so.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4175/Reid",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've had no problems with the Park ones that I haven't had with 'proper' ones and haven't felt the need to replace them when I get in.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Like regular ones, my experience is that if it's on, it's on and if it's still good after 24 hours then it'll last as long as the tube.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've had some issues with getting them to stick in the rain",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "but I think that probably applies to all patches.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5477/user814425",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long. I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again? Do they work?",
"title": "Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<innertube><puncture><repair>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/530",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K"
} | 24_48 | [
[
"Glueless patches are not as good as glued ones. Glueless patches are basically to get you home after a puncture. Once home, a proper repair with a glued patch should be done.",
"There seem to be conflicting views, as some argue that glueless patches are ineffective and can only work as a temporary solution, while others claim that there is no real difference in durability if they are applied correctly. This can be tested with products like the Park GP-2 patch kit. The reply might depend on the intended use. Glueless patches are sufficient for riding in town, but not off road. Another problem that may arise from glueless patches is that they do not stretch along the tube, so it is necessary to use another patch in the event of a deflation."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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[
"The reply might depend on the intended use. Glueless patches are sufficient for riding in town, but not off road. ",
"There seem to be conflicting views, as some argue that glueless patches are ineffective and can only work as a temporary solution, while others claim that there is no real difference in durability if they are applied correctly. This can be tested with products like the Park GP-2 patch kit.",
"A problem that may arise from glueless patches is that they do not stretch along the tube, so it is necessary to use another patch in the event of a deflation."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are a couple of types of rim tape available: Cloth -",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "This has a glue backing and is very long lasting.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you need to replace a spoke nipple, depending on the age of the tape, you will most probably have to also replace the tape since it will no longer stick to the rim.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Rubber",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "- This is continuous loop of rubber (stretchy) and the stretch is what holds the tape in place.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "As it ages there is a tendency for the area around the valve stem hole to break.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The rubber can also perish or become brittle with age.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Plastic - This is a slightly stretchy plastic in a continuous loop that can be slipped over the outer rim.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I found that the tapes have issues as they age with cracking, particularly when you are using high pressure tyres.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can get little splits in the tape just above the holes of the rim.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My personal favourite is the cloth tape, over time they have been the most dependable.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It is very important to get the right width of rim tape.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the tape is too narrow you can get the tube being pinched into the rim hole, or cut by the hole.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the tape is too wide then you can get the tyre being lifted of the rim when at high pressure (not instantaneous and leads to a huge bang).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I know you can get both the cloth and rubber tapes in various widths for the various wheel sizes, so shop around to get the right one for your wheels.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I just use electrical tape.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Been doing it for years",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and it's never let me down.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Replacing a spoke means you have to replace the tape",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "but I've broke 2 spokes in 10 years.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30/curtismchale",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Rubber rim strip is pretty stretchy stuff--and you want it to fit snugly!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Therefore, if buying rubber the diameter of your rim strip is not nearly as important as the width .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That said, your local shop should have some in a size that fits 26\" rims best.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Alternatively, there are brands of rim strip which are not one continuous piece and are not rubber, but instead are similar to thick tape.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "It's important to note the thickness--electrical tape may work in a pinch (and after a couple layers) but it's not nearly as resilient.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "This type of rim strip is basically one-size-fits all and is generally considered higher quality that the rubber type.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23/Dustin Ingram",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For getting the size correct, I stick coins into the rim until I get a combination that barely fits in the slot of the rim.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Then measure the that stack.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8200/Jim Titus",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This image is the current recommendation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Rim ID width",
"label": [
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "+2mm (to allow for shape)Stick on variety.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I use 2 laps of masking tape.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46674/DDDD",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It depends more on the make/model of wheel you have I think.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The 26in diameter is fairly standard (i.e. only small variation) but the width of the rim can vary depending on the type of wheel (i.e. trail, all mountain, race, etc).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/153/Dana the Sane",
"score": 0
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "From what I understand,a tape, such as Velox would be your best bet.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is a premium cloth tape that has a sticky backing to it, so as to hold it in place.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you've changed a few tubes and are using a plastic tape, you'll know what I mean when I say the tape has a tendency to move sideways on you.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Like Dustin mentioned, you really only need a tape as wide as the \"spoke trough\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Any wider and your tape may impinge on the seating of the tire bead to the rim.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hope that helps....",
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7975/Einstein",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike. I was changing the tube in my rear tire. The rim strip (rubber lining around the wheel to protect the tube from the spokes) had moved a bit so I went to adjust it and it broke at the hole made for the valve. I've never shopped for this part before. How do I know what size to buy? Are there different types? My tube size is 26 inches.",
"title": "How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><wheels><rim-tape>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/540",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/80/GluedHands"
} | 24_49 | [
[
"Rim tape is available in different materials: rubber, cloth and plastic. It does not seem that there is too much difference between them The most important aspect is the width: It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim.",
"There are three main tape types organized by material, namely cloth, rubber and plastic. The former is enduring, and the two latter are stretchy, so you may choose according to your needs. Alternative types of rim strip include premium one-size strips similar to thick tape and electrical tape. Users also recommend specific brands, such as Velox. The former are more resilient. On a different note, the width of rim tape may depend on the wheel make and model. It is possible to select the correct size by following the standard diameter, by choosing a tape that covers all spoke nipples and spoke holes, or by fitting coins in the rim to approximate the width required."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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4
] | [
[
"There are three main tape types organized by material, namely cloth, rubber and plastic. The former is enduring, and the two latter are stretchy, so you may choose according to your needs.",
"The width of rim tape may depend on the wheel make and model. It is possible to select the correct size by following the standard diameter, by choosing a tape that covers all spoke nipples and spoke holes, or by fitting coins in the rim to approximate the width required.",
"Alternative types of rim strip include premium one-size strips similar to thick tape and electrical tape. The former are more resilient.",
"Users recommend specific brands, such as Velox."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Helmets should be replaced roughly every 5 years and after any crash where your head makes contact with the ground.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Helmets will crumble, compress or otherwise deform in sometimes hard to see ways when you hit the deck.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The structural integrity of the thing will be massively diminished after even a relatively tame fall.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is one area where you don't want to mess around much.",
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0
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/47/bikesandcode",
"score": 56
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When to replace a bicycle helmet: Any fall that impacted the helmet.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There can easily be hard to see cracks, crumbling or compression of the foam; and all of those will make the helmet less effective.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you dropped it pretty hard and there's any likelihood of damage.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
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"text": "If the outer shell is separating from the foam.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "The shell helps protect your neck.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, if the shell is separating it may indicate the foam has compressed.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the outer shell has any significant scuffing.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2,
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "One of the ways that a helmet protects you is by helping your head to slide across rough surfaces instead of sticking, so if the helmet surface is now rough instead of smooth you lose that protection.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit",
"score": 25
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The general rule is every 3-4 years or after a crash.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
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[
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1
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},
{
"text": "Some people say that excessive sweat or UV exposure can also degrade your helmet, but no one has proven that so far.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Why are you using a helmet?",
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"text": "If you're using it because you're doing something which involves a decent probability of you falling and hitting your head, then you should probably replace it after every serious incident.",
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"text": "Some companies (e.g. Giro) will give you a discount if you trade in a damaged lid , so that they can learn from its demise.",
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"text": "If you're commuting or doing something less dangerous, but which offers some scenarios where you think a lid will assist, then you might be less concerned about replacing after every ding.",
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"text": "But the helmet is designed to work when pristene; as soon as there is damage, any damage , it won't act in the way that is was designed to, so is going to offer you a sub-optimal service.",
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"text": "But if you're just using a helmet because you think you should, although remain generally unconvinced (peer pressure, race rules, certain state/national legal obligations, enhanced air flow around the scalp), then don't worry about it ...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Bicycle helmets are designed to absorb impact by cracking or crumbling.",
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"text": "The insides of the helmet may crack with no damage visible on the outside.",
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"text": "I'd replace the helmet as soon as you can.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "If there's visible damage to your helmet, like a crack, then you should definitely replace it.",
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"text": "Dents, maybe, it depends how bad they are.",
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"text": "Better safe than sorry",
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{
"text": "right?",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/219/Jason",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Inspect the helmet for damage inside and out.",
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"text": "If you see any cracks, then it's time to replace it.",
"label": [
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"text": "If not, you're fine.",
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"text": "You don't want to risk your cranium when you could just buy another helmet.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/223/Chris Benard",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "It depends what you use it for.",
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"text": "The primary advantage I have from my helmet is not hitting the branches with my head, when riding in forest.",
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"text": "For that I don't need a new one each 2 years.",
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"text": "I even heard that this is actually what bike helmets were made for in the first place.",
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"score": 3
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}
] | {
"question": "I’ve fallen a couple times, but no serious damage is visible on the helmet except for a couple divots here and there. Should I consistently be replacing my helmet after a certain amount of time? After every relatively serious fall?",
"title": "When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<helmets><safety>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/592",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/218/kamens"
} | 25_0 | [
[
"The general recommendation is to replace helmets every 3-4 years or maximum 5. They should also be replaced after any crash where the head makes contact with the ground. Moreover, cracks and scuffs on the outer shell are a sign it is time to replace the helmet. A helmet should also be replaced when it has been dropped.",
"Generally, helmets should be replaced every 3-5 years, or after any crash or fall that may impact them. This also applies for helmets with visible damage in their outer shell, like cracks, scuffing or loose foam. Regardless, it is also suggested that you should replace your helmet at the earliest opportunity."
]
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"Generally, helmets should be replaced every 3-5 years, or after a crash.",
"You should replace your helmet after any crash or fall, particularly in serious cases.",
"Helmets with scuffing on their outer shell or loose foam should be replaced.",
"Any visible damage, like cracks or scuffing, means you should replace your helmet.",
"Consider replacing your helmet at the earliest opportunity."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Personally I would go with the finish line wet as opposed to the dry.",
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"text": "Typically I use the dry if I want something that will keep my chain looking clean as well as lubricated.",
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"text": "From personal experience I have found that I need to reapply the dry lube more often.",
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"text": "I will use a wet lube, sparingly mind you, for the nastier conditions.",
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"text": "Having wasted your time with that I would say that storage temperature/location, how you clean the chain (method, frequency and intensity) and how you apply the lube (gobs vs. sparingly on each link) is more important than the type of lube.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "My experience has been that the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for.",
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"text": "Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions.",
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"text": "Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet \"gunk\" left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 6
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I use a product called 'Purple Extreme' , originally developed for offshore oil rig components.",
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"text": "I guess it is 'dry', because it dries on the chain (although you can use it immediately, they recommend letting it dry on first).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/328/Jay",
"score": 3
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've never had much luck with dry lube.",
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"text": "It has very low viscosity and feels like it washes off easily.",
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"text": "I use Finish Line Wet lube all year round.",
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"text": "It's cheap, widely available and clean when applied carefully.",
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"text": "I apply by taking the chain off the bike, cleaning it and dropping a couple of drops on each link, allowing it to soak in and then wiping off the excess.",
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"text": "Sounds fiddly but it doesn't take long and you get lube where you need it (inside the links) and not where you don't (everywhere else).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/272/markdrayton",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'm a big fan of Pro Gold.",
"label": [
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"text": "Year round, all weather.",
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"text": "http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm",
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"text": "Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment.",
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"text": "So think lubricating metal in adverse conditions.",
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"text": "Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally.",
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"text": "It's available online though.",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I just recently mixed Finish Line Dry with 0.5 micron hexagonal boron nitride powder, a.k.a. white graphite.",
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{
"text": "Night and day!",
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"text": "And the HBN seems to add a lot more staying power.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29622/JEB of Ponderworthy",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've read a lot about wet vs dry chain lube and there doesn't seem a definitive answer on whether to use wet or dry chain lube in the winter. Some forums are full of people saying they only use dry lube because it doesn't wash off as easy, then other forums are full of people saying the opposite, for the opposite reason! What type of chain lube is best for winter riding (water, gritted roads etc)",
"title": "What type of chain lube is best for winter riding?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chain><lubricant><winter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/633",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/188/Mark Ingram"
} | 25_1 | [
[
"Most people recommend a wet lube for the chain in winter. Several brands are available on the market.",
"It is subjective, even though more people recommend using wet lube for winter conditions. There are a number of products available for this purpose. "
]
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"It is subjective, even though more people recommend using wet lube for winter conditions. ",
"There are a number of products available for this purpose. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears.",
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"text": "There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out.",
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"text": "If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range)",
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"text": "you may find that you're never quite in the \"right\" gear for all of the in-between situations.",
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"text": "I'm using a 11-32 cassette on my road bike (with a MTB derailleur for more capacity).",
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"text": "I have plenty of climbing gears but rarely use the small cogs since I spin at around 90rpm.",
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"text": "Like the Bay Area, there are a lot of hill around here.",
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"text": "But I find the jumps between gears too big (either spins too easily or too hard) so am looking for a narrower range cassette.",
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"text": "If you want just a bit more range for climbing, you'll need to jump up to at least a 28-tooth large cog",
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"text": "(you'll barely notice the difference going from 26 to 27) which might require a long-cage derailleur.",
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"text": "On the high end, a 12-tooth cog will be a noticeable difference over your 13.",
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"text": "Since you're used to a compact range you probably don't want to go with a much bigger cassette.",
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"text": "Sheldon Brown has a great gearing calculator that you can play with to see what different combinations will give you.",
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"text": "A 12-27 cassette would give you a slightly wider spread of gears.",
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"text": "Depending on your drivetrain you might be able to fit a 11-32 MTB cassette, though you'll probably need an MTB rear derailleur too.",
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"text": "The jumps between ratios on wider cassettes can be annoying, though.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It certainly sounds like you should look at going to a wider range of gears.",
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"text": "Your triple on the front already seems like a pretty wide range, and unlikely to easily get a wider range up there, so I'm thinking you'd mostly be looking at a wider range on the cassette.",
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"text": "The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range.",
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"text": "You should definitely pay attention to the actual gear ratios.",
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"text": "Some careful selection (work out all your current gears and figure out what the new gears would be) could help a lot.",
"label": [
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"text": "Right now your low end is basically 1:1 and your high end is 4.1:1.",
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"text": "A smallest sprocket of 11 instead of 13 (without changing from a 53) would get you to 4.8:1 for your highest gear, which is about an 18% improvement and could easily be enough to get you the higher-end range it sounds like you need.",
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"text": "Much more low end than that might require replacing the rear derailer,",
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"text": "but I've seen 11-34, etc, which would get your lowest gear down to 0.8:1.",
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"text": "Usually those have a specific \"granny\" gear on the back that's a big jump, which could still leave you with plenty of fine tuning in the rest of your gear range.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "Another option to consider is a “ bottom bracket gear ”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I highly recommend getting a compact crank (50/34) since for the vast majority of mere mortals a 53/39 crank is too much gearing.",
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"text": "It's a relatively cheap upgrade (about $300).",
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"text": "I pair mine with a 12-27 9 speed cassette.",
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"text": "Around here in Seattle, I find that there really aren't any hills I can't climb with the 34x27.",
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"text": "For my weight (160lbs) that lets me climb pretty much anything around here, including some hills with a 17%+ grade.",
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"text": "However, I'm finding that I could really use some additional gears so that I can pedal an optimal cadence.",
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"text": "I suspect a 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25 is in my future someday when I can do 5 min climbs at 300W+.",
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"text": "But that's a really expensive upgrade though since that involves swapping out my 9spd drivetrain for a 10spd one.",
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"text": "That will happen when I get a new bike ...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/295/John Lam",
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"text": "Since you have a triple you already have about as wide a range as you can get on the front (for practical purposes).",
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"text": "Before changing the rear you would want to make sure your derailleurs can handle the increased range of teeth.",
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"text": "If you go to the manufacturers' websites (I'm guessing....",
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"text": "Shimano?)",
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"text": "you can look up the tooth capacity of those components.",
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"text": "If they will handle it, then you might be able to get a wider rear cassette that helps you.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "If you like to visit very steep climb, I suggest using 50/34 for chainring and 12/27 10 speed12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27 for your sprocket, or 11-28 includes - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,2827 or 28 is very usefull if you climb more than 25% grade...",
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"text": "But if you have a strong power output 53/39 chainring with 12-25 includes - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25 should be sufficient...",
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"text": "I did 20% with 39/25....",
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"text": "so every one is unique for this sprocket/chainring selection, depends on your leg :)",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3189/Rick Ant",
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] | {
"question": "My road bike currently has a 27/39/53 crankset and a 13-26 cassette, both of which need to be replaced. I occasionally find myself in both extremes—while heading up the very steep hills of the Bay Area the lowest gearing sometimes isn't enough and on much of a downhill grade my legs can't keep up in the highest. Is it worth going to a wider range on the front or rear?",
"title": "What range of sprockets is useful in a road bike cassette?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<gears><cassette><crankset>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/700",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17/Drew Stephens"
} | 25_2 | [
[
"A compact crank (50/34) is highly recommended since for the vast majority of people a 53/39 crank is too much gearing. The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range. Another option to consider is a “ bottom bracket gear ”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5. ",
"There seem to arguments for a wider range both on the bike's front and on the rear. Most notably, a wider cassette would require a rear derailleur, and would also entail more complicated gearing. A good, if expensive, solution might be a bottom bracket gear."
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"There seem to arguments for a wider range both on the bike's front and on the rear. Most notably, a wider cassette would require a rear derailleur, and would also entail more complicated gearing.",
"A good, if expensive, solution might be a bottom bracket gear."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You might consider:",
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"text": "Arkel Bug , which works as a backpack.",
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],
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{
"text": "Quite modern, sporty look.",
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"text": "Ortlieb Downtown , which has a comfortable shoulder strap.",
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"text": "You might check other products of those two producers, if you need a bigger/smaller cargo capacity.",
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"text": "Both of these panniers are very easy to attach to your bike.",
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"text": "Perfect for your daily commuting needs and running errands.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/122/Tadeusz A. Kadłubowski",
"score": 7
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I've tried several options here, including specialty options like Arkel's laptop bag with a shoulder strap.",
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"text": "There are some things that I didn't like about carrying panniers off-bike.",
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"text": "The attachment hardware adds extra weight that I'd prefer not to have.",
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"text": "The hardware always seem to find a way to bump into my side, even when it's covered.",
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"text": "And finally, sometimes I just don't to immediately be identified as a cyclist when I walk into room, based on the bags I'm carrying in.(Orange bags with reflective strips",
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"text": "don't go great with formal attire and settings)",
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"text": "My recommendation is to choose a bag that works for you off-bike, and find a way to carry that bag on your bike.",
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"text": "For example, Clarijs makes some large size panniers that made to reside on the bike.",
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{
"text": "The would be large enough to drop another bag into: Another option is a front rack.",
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{
"text": "Workcycles has a giant, masculine box if that's your thing.",
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{
"text": "It apparently isn't getting stolen while parked on the streets of Amsterdam, so it will likely survive live in your location as well:",
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"text": "Cargo bikes like the XtraCycle, Yuba Mundo and bakfiets also have permanent storage capacity in the form of standard bags or boxes, and this is what I'm used to using frequently myself now.",
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"text": "Here's the giant Go-Getter bag, which as you can see can easily swallow several other bags with in it: Given all the above, my \"off-bike pannier\" is the Walking Bag by Courierware .",
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"text": "It basically looks like a black shoulder bag.",
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"text": "It's designed as a kind of small courier bag, but it doesn't scream \"CYCLIST ACCESSORY\" when you walk into a room due the smaller form factor.",
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"text": "It is however basically waterproof and easy to fill and access.",
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"text": "For simple, shorter trips, I can cinch down the strap and where it over my shoulder like a courier bag.",
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"text": "For heavier loads or longer trips, I currently drop it into my XtraCycle bag and go.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2001/Mark Stosberg",
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"text": "I use an Altura pannier (or both if I'm caring a lot and need the full 46 capacity), and a detachable shoulder strap that I keep in the top pocket of the pannier.",
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"text": "It's on the bike most of the time, but when I need to take it off and carry it round the strap is always there handy, and the rixen & kaul fittings make the pannier easy to attach/detach.",
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"text": "It's not quite as comfortable as a dedicated over-the-shoulder-bag (sometimes the pannier clips can get in the way as I'm walking about), but it's definitely good enough for what I need.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/96/Wilka",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have an Arkel Bug and an Arkel Briefcase , and I think that they are great.",
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"text": "Both have straps that can be used over the shoulders, in fact, a shoulder bag can be added to any pannier.",
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"text": "I use the Bug for my clothes, lunch, and tools, and the briefcase for my laptop and other work related items.",
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"text": "They are convenient to use easy to carry around, and Arkel makes high quality panniers.",
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"text": "They are pricey, but worth it.",
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"text": "The way that the laptop holder in the briefcase is built provides shock absorption.",
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"text": "It is worth noting that the backpack functionality of the bug is inferior to that of a regular backpack, there is always a metal bar on your back.",
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"text": "Arkel has one of the best attachment systems , it keeps the bags secure even without the bungee cord.",
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"text": "Jandd also makes great panniers and some of the best racks, but I found that their briefcase was poorly made when I tried it out in 2006 (same year I purchased the Arkel bags above).",
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"text": "They have changed the material and possibly the quality since then, so it might be worth checking out.",
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"text": "Another drawback is that it hangs sideways rather than 'right side up'.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/839/David LeBauer",
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"text": "I would suggest the Woodward Convertible from North St. Bags .",
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"text": "To be fair, I work for them, but given the nature of your inquiry and the tasks you're looking to achieve, this product is perfect.",
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"text": "We've designed the Woodward to work well both on and off the bike and we have worked hard to make the transition process easy and quick.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26541/Kevin Murphy",
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{
"text": "Not to confuse anyone, but we at North St. Bags also make a second convertible pannier backpack, the Route 9 .",
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"text": "This bag is designed as more of a long haul touring option with less frequent on and off transition than that of our other bag, the Woodward Convertible .",
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"text": "Depending on the nature and length of your ride, you may prefer one design over the other.",
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"text": "But both are quick converting options that are great sellers for us.",
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"text": "The goal was an uber simple design, using quality Made in USA materials, made in house in Portland, Oregon.",
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"text": "We sell these bags to about 60 bike shops throughout the USA.",
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"text": "Also we have a sizable following in Japan and we do in fact ship worldwide direct to consumer.",
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"text": "I got a North St Bags Woodward Convertible Pannier/Backpack and use it all the time.",
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"text": "It has hidden backpack straps which make it easy to wear on your back and quickly converts to a standard pannier for mounting on your rack.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2997/Benzo",
"score": 1
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}
] | {
"question": "I'm looking for panniers. I mostly just potter around town, and am not planning any cycle touring so my main criteria is that the panniers should be easy to carry around off the bike. Built in rucksack straps or a shoulder/cross-body strap would be good. Just a carry handle would not be enough for me.",
"title": "Recommendation for panniers used off the bike a lot",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<product-rec><accessories><panniers><ergonomics>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/762",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/335/Hamish Downer"
} | 25_3 | [
[
"Arkel, North St. Bags, Clarijs, Workcycle and Altura make panniers that are also uasable as rucksacks. Another option is to buy a rucksack and then find a way to attach it to the bike. There are also cargo bikes that have permanent storage built-in",
"There is a number of available panniers that can be used off the bike and may be converted into a backpack or a bag with a shoulder strap. These include the Arkel Bug, the Ortlieb Downtown, the Altura pannier, the Arkel Briefcase and the Woodward Convertible aiming others. However, panniers are not necessarily mobile. You could try large panniers with greater storage capacities that are designed to stay on the bike. Cargo bikes often have built-in or fixed storage spaces, while some bikes are equipped with front racks."
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"There is a number of available panniers that can be used off the bike and may be converted into a backpack or a bag with a shoulder strap. These include the Arkel Bug, the Ortlieb Downtown, the Altura pannier, the Arkel Briefcase and the Woodward Convertible aiming others.",
"Panniers are not necessarily mobile. You could try large panniers with greater storage capacities that are designed to stay on the bike. Cargo bikes often have built-in or fixed storage spaces, while some bikes are equipped with front racks."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "If you're doing mostly commuting",
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"text": "I'd look for strength above light.",
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"text": "Go for something with more spokes and with a 3 cross lacing pattern.",
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],
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},
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"text": "You want something that is reliable.",
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"text": "Of course you weight is a consideration so there is always a trade off between that and durability.",
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"text": "Going with something with radial (straight) lacing up front can save weight and you're less likely to break a spoke on the front wheel so there is less chance that durability will be a factor.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30/curtismchale",
"score": 10
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub.",
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"text": "In response to an earlier post, you don't want to change your wheelsize.",
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"text": "And 28\" and 29\" both refer to 700c wheels (and hence are the same size).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'd avoid anything with deep (aerodynamic) rims as the wheel will be stiffer and less comfortable.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/259/Jonny Cundall",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28\" instead of 26\", or even 29\" but they need to fit your frame (you should check).",
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"text": "More narrow wheels will reduce rolling resistance.",
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"text": "Less profile in your tires will reduce rolling resistance.",
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},
{
"text": "higher pressure in your innertube will reduce rolling resistance. for commuting a puncture resistant tire such as the schwalbe marathon plus is very nice.",
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"text": "In googling this question I came across this article which shows that there is quite a difference between different tire types, also, whatever the tire type, increasing the pressure will reduce resistance (probably at the expense of some durability)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/424/jilles de wit",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Amongst the other good advice I would recommend non-radial wheels - it doesn't save that much weight generally and is stronger; with 28 or 24 spokes you can go cross 2 .",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2063/petert",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have a commuting/touring bike and my riding is a good bit of commuting mixed with weekend rides of up to 50 miles. In my lame knowledge, I'll assume that lighter wheels can be had when you spend more money, but what are other things to look for or avoid when choosing wheels for a non-racing bike?",
"title": "What should I look for in choosing wheels for a road bike?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<road-bike><commuter><wheels><touring>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/821",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17/Drew Stephens"
} | 25_4 | [
[
"When choosing wheels build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub. Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28\" instead of 26\", or even 29\" but they need to fit your frame (you should check). Advice on radial lacing is varied including cross lacing, staight lacing and non-radial wheels. ",
"There are some conflicting views on the desired wheel characteristics. Some argue for more spokes, arranged in a three-cross pattern, some advise against stiff aerodynamic rims, and others prioritize build quality over everything else. Radial lacing is also a point of debate, as radial wheels seem to save weight and protect the spokes, while non-radial wheels are stronger on the whole. Regarding wheel size, larger wheels allow for greater comfort, but increase rolling resistance. At any rate, wheel size depends on a bike's frame."
]
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[
"There are some conflicting views on the desired wheel characteristics. Some argue for more spokes, arranged in a three-cross pattern, some advise against stiff aerodynamic rims, and others prioritize build quality over everything else.",
"Radial lacing is a point of debate. Radial wheels seem to save weight and protect the spokes, while non-radial wheels are stronger on the whole.",
"Regarding wheel size, larger wheels allow for greater comfort, but increase rolling resistance. At any rate, wheel size depends on a bike's frame."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Rails-to-trails , LAB and others are all great groups who do a lot of good, but not necessarily in your area.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Like the saying goes, \"Think globally, act locally\".",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "The best form of advocacy is to ride as much as you can.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the developed world we tend to look at cycling as recreation or a hobby.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "As such, many participants drive their bike to the place where they ride their bikes.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The more visible you are to your friends, neighbors and co-workers as a cyclist, the better.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The more you ride for transportation, or utility the more 'credibility' you have with those around you.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Begin in your local community.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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0
]
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},
{
"text": "If you ride to the store, restaurant, or library and there is not a convenient place to lock your bike, talk to the manager.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "On a couple of occasions I have mentioned to a manager that I and other cyclists like a particular restaurant",
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],
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"text": "but we don't visit as often because there is nowhere to lock our bikes other than a chain link fence, or a tree.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Two 'strip malls' now have bike racks.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Finally, your town or county may have an advocacy group already - join - be active.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Showing example is a great way for cycling advocacy.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "People around me take usage of car for granted.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "But when they see me riding my bike everyday for working, for shopping or just for the pleasure of cycling, they start to question their behaviour.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There is still a long way before they are converted but the seed has been injected in their mind.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/183/mouviciel",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are lots of cycling clubs that are associated with IMBA (International Mountain Biking Association) .",
"label": [
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],
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},
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"text": "These clubs often run events and maintain trails.",
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"text": "By joining an IMBA club, you'll help support efforts on a regional and national level.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/153/Dana the Sane",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Buying from your local bike store that does advocacy, instead of ordering online or buying from Walmart.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/389/LanceH",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One of the aspects of Cycling Advocacy is to make cycling more popular.",
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},
{
"text": "My usual approach to this is to get work colleagues to volunteer to take part in a charity bike",
"label": [
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},
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"text": "ride a few months from now",
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},
{
"text": "(we usually do the Manchester to Blackpool Bike Ride in aid of The Christie which is about 60 miles long).",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Out of the various people who volunteer and do the bike ride each year, a number carry on cycling (if they hadn't already been keen cyclists), this was what got me back into cycling a few years ago, now.",
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"text": "So my suggestion would be to try and get friends or colleagues to do something cycling related with a few months to prepare for it, and hope that as a result they will rediscover cycling and become once more converted to the Way of the Bike.",
"label": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/79/Amos",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Slightly silly but... public transport strikes.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Preferably in sunny weather!",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/69/Murph",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here is a great link from Bikes Belong on effective methods of bicycling advocacy by individuals!",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "To summarize:",
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0
],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "Ride your bike and represent bicycling Connect with local advocacy Connect/network with government and community leaders",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Get involved at the national level",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Adventure Cycling Association is a great group.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Their nonprofit mission: \"to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun, and self-discovery.\"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/52/Rebekah",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Although there are great local groups, some things are best addressed by nationwide efforts.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The vote in the US Senate over transportation funding - MAP-21 - was publicized and lobbied over by groups like the League of American Cyclists - and I think that was instrumental in getting things changed for the better.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This question has answers which include organizations all around the world.",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3644/Eyal",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Are all the best efforts truly local, or are there good regional/national causes (for example, the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy ) that are worth supporting?",
"title": "What are the most effective methods of bicycling advocacy?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<advocacy><resource>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/856",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/273/Mr. Palomar"
} | 25_5 | [
[
"The best way to advocate cycling is to ride a bike as much as possible. Some places have local cycling advocacy groups and it is also possible to become involved in these at national level. Encouraging friends and relatives to do something bicycle related is another good way of advocating cycling.",
"One of the best forms of advocacy is to set an example and ride as much as you can, with the aim to normalize cycling and familiarize your local community with it. Another good idea would be to get organized on a regional or national level. To this end, you could join relevant groups or clubs, participate in transport strikes and get in touch with state representatives. You might also want to organize cycling activities for your friends, family and colleagues to make cycling popular with a broader audience. Finally, you could try supporting smaller regional stores against big chains."
]
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[
"One of the best forms of advocacy is to set an example and ride as much as you can, with the aim to normalize cycling and familiarize your local community with it.",
"A good idea would be to get organized on a regional or national level. To this end, you could join relevant groups or clubs, participate in transport strikes and get in touch with state representatives.",
"You could try supporting smaller regional stores against big chains.",
"You might want to organize cycling activities for your friends, family and colleagues to make cycling popular with a broader audience."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Wow!",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "That looks like a horrid crash.",
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"text": "There are some newer ideas on road rash healing.",
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{
"text": "My doctor recommended that I NOT use Neosporin type ointments.",
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"text": "The reason being that it only has an affect on the superficial layers of the wound and that infection, if it occurs, will be in the deeper layers; and also that topicals are shown to interfere with wound healing.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "He also told me not to use hydrogen peroxide as it damages tissue.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "The keys to healing and preventing scarring are to keep the wounds clean and moist.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The advice I got from my physician (who is a cyclist) is pretty much the same as the advice here on freewheel.com .",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "According to the article and my doc: After a proper cleaning it's recommended to apply an application of a hydrocolloid or semiocclusive hydrogel dressing.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "\"A moist healing environment is provided by the dressing...",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Two basic options fulfill this requirement.",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "\" Semipermeable film dressings , such as Bioclusive (Johnson & Johnson, New Brunswick, New Jersey) andTegaderm (3M Company, St Paul), in combination with semiocclusive hydrogels such as Spenco 2nd",
"label": [
0
],
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{
"text": "Skin (Spenco Medical Corp, Waco, Texas).",
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"text": "These dressings are impermeable to water and bacteria but allow the exudate to evaporate.\" Hydrocolloidal dressings .",
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},
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"text": "Examples of hydrocolloidal dressings are Duoderm (ConvaTec, SkiUman, New Jersey) and Cutinova hydro (Beiersdorf, Inc, Norwalk, Connecticut).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One suggestion: Neosporin.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Every time you change a bandage, wash it out and slather that stuff on.",
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50/Jack M.",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The main idea is to keep scabs from forming.",
"label": [
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Scabbing retards the healing process greatly, and will increase scarring.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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1
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{
"text": "The Neosporin that was suggested above and other generic antibiotic ointments help with this; this is an economical solution.",
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"text": "You can get gauze that is already impregnated with Neosporin-like things, or you can apply the ointment to the wound and then put regular gauze on top.",
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"text": "For large areas, it can be hard to keep the bandage on the wound which is why I recommend other products like Tegaderm .",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Tegaderm and similar products that are designed for burn victims work great.",
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"text": "The nice thing about tegaderm is that you can stick it on the rash (once it's clean) and then leave it on there.",
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},
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"text": "It stays on the wound without needing tape or other adhesives, but it doesn't pull or damage the healing skin when/if you pull it off.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It forms a protective \"skin-like\" layer while the skin underneath grows back.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "You can leave it on for a long time without changing, and it speeds the healing immensely.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/288/kevins",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "First is getting the hair and dirt out of the wound, which it sounds like the ER has done for you.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
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},
{
"text": "In the first 24-48 hours, I've found the gel bandages to vastly improve the time it takes road rash to heal.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "They seem to wick away a lot of the fluids which build up on a fresh wound.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I get something similar from playing goalkeeper on occasion.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'm unsure of the exact science involved, but as the bandages never seem to be able to get 100% coverage, it is easy to see exactly which areas have the bandages and which don't.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The area under the bandage heals considerable faster and the scabbing comes out much smoother and flush with the skin.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
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"text": "I have followed both @Jack",
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"text": "M. and @LanceH's advice before and both worked well.",
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"text": "I also followed that up with anti-scar cream for a nice face wound I had.",
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"text": "I think it helped, but I'm not that interested in doing a personal comparison study.",
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"text": "Search on amazon or head to your local drug store/chemist and ask someone there for a recommendation.",
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"text": "You use the anti-scar cream after the scab is off if I remember right.",
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"text": "And don't pick off the scab!",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/9/Mike Two",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Bactine is an antibacterial with a pain relief formula of some sort in it.",
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"text": "I'll swear by it, as i got some rash longboarding a few weeks ago and after using it once or twice a day for a few days i don't even feel it anymore and it healing faster than normal.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "So many different way to heal, I'm noticing when I cover n",
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"text": "let nature take its course",
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"text": "I'm watching my facial burn heal more each day.",
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"text": "It is irritating having to tape up my face tho so I am off in search of duoderm or something that will allow my face to be free of sticky tape while avoiding scarring.",
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"text": "Definitely keep your wound covered.",
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"text": "My sister who is a dr without the degree swears I'm going to get infection by the bandages, but she is being proven wrong.",
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"text": "I have photographed the wound each day and see a noticeably different wound each day that passes.",
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"text": "I cannot wait til it's gone tho, but realize time is of the essence.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "What I've found, after the first 24 hours or so when the wound is oozing, is that leaving it uncovered but coating it with ointment works best.",
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"text": "(Preferably use an antibiotic ointment, but plain old petrolatum is OK.)",
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"text": "If the wound is in a place where it might get bumped, or you consider it terribly unsightly (though how can a biking wound be other than a badge to wear proudly?)",
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"text": "then you can lightly cover with gauze.",
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"text": "The ointment holds in the moisture, which is what you need most to promote healing.",
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"text": "And antibiotic ointments have been shown to increase the speed of healing over non-antibiotic.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Not really an answer in the long term, but excluding air from the wound helps.",
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"text": "So as a get-home fix you can use something like clean gladwrap / sarin wrap to cover the wound after washing out all the dirt.",
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"text": "Also stops the wound from stinging as you get home.",
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"text": "Using this method I have a 3\" line on my forearm where there are now no freckles, but you can't feel it, and hair grows normally.",
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"text": "Plus you can see through the plastic and observe if you've missed any lumps of road.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 0
}
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] | {
"question": "Crashes are an inevitability in cycling. This weekend, I hit a 4\" stick on my bike. It flipped over, stuck in the spokes of my front wheel and did this to it: It stopped my bike really quickly and I wound up flying over the handlebars, and earned a trip to the local ER where they spent an hour scrubbing the road out of my face, arms and shoulder. So what tips and tricks do you folks have for recovering quickly (and without scarring) from road rash?",
"title": "What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<health><injury>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/967",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/295/John Lam"
} | 25_6 | [
[
"After a crash, keep the wound, clean, moist and covered. A product such a Neosporin or other antibiotic cream can be used. Do not pick scabs. Tegaderm is an option for large areas that are hard to bandage.",
"There are conflicting views on the suitability of Neosporin type antibiotic ointments for road rashes, despite its popularity and widespread use. Treatment with hydrogen peroxide is also challenged. The use of bandages is also a point of debate, as some argue that large areas or fresh, oozing wounds should better be left uncovered and treated with ointments and dressings, preferably antibiotic. Others, advise using bandages and gel bandages in particular. At any rate, keeping wounds clean and moist is critical to avoid scarring, next to applying hydrocolloid or semi occlusive hydrogel dressings, using anti-scar cream and avoiding scabbing. Before treating the wound, it is important to clean it and remove any dirt or hair. You could use gladwrap or sarin wrap as a temporary solution. You could advise a health professional or find more information online."
]
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[
"There are conflicting views on the suitability of Neosporin type antibiotic ointments for road rashes, despite its popularity and widespread use. Treatment with hydrogen peroxide is also challenged.",
"Keeping wounds clean and moist is critical to avoid scarring, next to applying hydrocolloid or semi occlusive hydrogel dressings, using anti-scar cream and avoiding scabbing.",
"The use of bandages is also a point of debate, as some argue that large areas or fresh, oozing wounds should better be left uncovered and treated with ointments and dressings, preferably antibiotic. Others, argue for bandages and gel bandages in particular.",
"You could advise a health professional or find more information online.",
"Before treating the wound, it is important to clean it and remove any dirt or hair. You could use gladwrap or sarin wrap as a temporary solution."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Looking at the spec of your bike it says the BB is a cartridge unit.",
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"text": "This probably isn't serviceable -- it's designed to be replaced when worn out, so just keep riding it until it grinds or gets excessively sloppy.",
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"text": "The hubs might be serviceable.",
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"text": "If you ride a lot in nasty conditions, or you're aggressive with the degreaser you might want to service them.",
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"text": "However, if they're well-sealed (like most modern hubs and in particular Shimano hubs) then they almost never need servicing.",
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"text": "If you're worried, learn how to service them yourself and see what they look like.",
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"text": "If they're still packed with grease and nice and clean inside they don't need servicing.",
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"text": "Servicing them isn't hard",
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"text": "but it's a bit fiddly",
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{
"text": "-- you'll lose a bearing under the fridge, then you won't be able to remember if there should be 9 or 10 balls, and whether they're 3/32\" or 1/8\" or 5/32\", and so on.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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"text": "Don't do it for fun.",
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{
"text": "I ride a lot.",
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"text": "My Campagnolo Neutrons have probably seen 10,000+ km.",
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"text": "In that time I've had a look at the bearings once or twice.",
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"text": "Still greasy, still smooth.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The rims will wear out before the hub bearings do.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/272/markdrayton",
"score": 15
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"sents": [
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"text": "This is a very subjective opinion.",
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"text": "A standard like \"change your oil every 3000 miles\" doesn't exist as far as I know, although here is a suggested one .",
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"text": "I ride about 3,000-4,000 miles a year and my rule of thumb is to do the hubs every 300 - 500 miles or so, and the bottom bracket twice a year.",
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"text": "Works out to a hub overhaul about every other month.",
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"text": "Both of these are more frequent than the suggested schedule.",
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"text": "That said, there have been a couple of times I have ridden in an area and ended up with the bottom bracket or hubs completely submerged.",
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"text": "When that happens I like to overhaul them at my earliest convenience; preferably within a day or two.",
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"text": "Another point here is - I do the maintenance myself.",
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"text": "Hubs are easy and you should be able to learn to do them yourself from a book and with a $10-15 investment in tools - bottom brackets are a little harder and you will probably just want to include that as part of a \"shop service\" unless you want to learn and invest a little more in doing your own maintenance.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
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"sents": [
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"text": "At 7 miles a day on road riding , assuming you have well sealed hubs and bottom brackets I would expect you to be able to go well over a year before having to grease and repack.",
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"text": "A lot depends on the space you have and if you are happy to do the work your self – if you have a warm dry workshop then you may decide that doing maintenance more often is a good trade of to make your components last longer.",
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"text": "However if doing the maintenance is a pain to you, or you are having to pay a bike shop with all the inconvenience of taking the bike to the stop in your car, you may decide that you would rather just replace the bike/components after a few years.",
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"text": "Greasing and packing your hubs every time to put on a new tire on is a good option, as it is easy to remember to do it.",
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"text": "I would personally with your type of riding, only consider getting the bottom bracket done when the bike has to go into the shop for something else or after a few years if you have not had to visit the bikes shop in the mean time.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A friend of mine goes to the trouble of installing a grease nipple in the shell of each hub.",
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"text": "Then, instead of having to take the hub apart, all you need to do is pump more grease in every so often and wipe the excess that comes out around the axle away.",
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"text": "This has the advantage of pushing any dirt and gunk out of the bearings when you add more grease.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/350/deemar",
"score": 5
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As far as I know, most modern hubs and bottom brackets are designed not to need service.",
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1
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],
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{
"text": "Bottom brackets in particular are often constructed in a way that they cannot be disassembled.",
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"text": "My experience:",
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"text": "My bike (good quality, but not top-of-the-line) is about 7 years old, and I ride around 2,000 km per year.",
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"text": "I have never serviced the hubs or bottom bracket, so far without any problems.",
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"text": "I don't do extreme off-road riding, but I do cycle in winter and in the rain, plus the bike is sometimes parked in the rain.",
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"text": "So if you are not using your bike under extreme conditions, you may not need to worry about maintaining the bearings at all.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1093/sleske",
"score": 3
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Water (and its cousin mud)",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "more than anything affect grease bearings.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "The more rain, and or mud that you ride in the more often you will need to repack your grease bearings.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "When they are freshly packed pay attention to how easily the wheels spin when you hold them off the road or the bike is upside down.",
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"text": "Then do this every so often and if they seem to be getting even the least bit slower then it is time to pack.",
"label": [
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"text": "You will get a feel for their condition over time.",
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"text": "I do mine every 1000 to 2000 miles",
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"text": "and I ride mine through everything.",
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"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I am commuting 7 miles a day (round trip) in all weather in New England (temperate, moderately wet climate, cold winters). Overall I am putting about 1000 miles per year on my commuter bike, a 2009 Giant Transend DX with lower-end Shimano components (Alivio and whatnot). I lube my chain and check brakes and tire pressure weekly, but how often do I need to get the hubs and bottom-bracket taken apart and lubed?",
"title": "How often should I grease and repack my hubs and bottom bracket?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<maintenance><commuter><lubricant><bottom-bracket><hub>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1068",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/167/Adam Franco"
} | 25_7 | [
[
"Hubs and bottom brackets do not necessarily need maintenance. They need replacing when worn out. However, this depends on the type of bike use. For heavier use, greasing and repacking may be required. Some people recommend greasing every time the wheel is changed",
"There seems that the bottom bracket might not be serviceable, as it cannot be disassembled. Rather, it should be replaced when necessary. Regarding the hubs, you can decide whether to service them judging by their state and your usual cycling conditions. It is recommended that you do maintenance about once year, provided that you keep your hubs and bottom brackets in good condition. If you have the facilities, you could grease and repack more frequently to increase the parts' product life. Alternatively, you could so every time you change tires. Adverse weather conditions may increase the need for maintenance. A good idea would be to check the wheel spin without traction and compare it with the wheel spin while driving to check if you need servicing."
]
] | {
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[
"There seems that the bottom bracket might not be serviceable, as it cannot be disassembled. Rather, it should be replaced when necessary.",
"You can decide whether to service the hubs judging by their state and your usual cycling conditions.",
"It is recommended that you do maintenance about once year, provided that you keep your hubs and bottom brackets in good condition. If you have the facilities, you could grease and repack more frequently to increase the parts' product life. Alternatively, you could so every time you change tires.",
"Adverse weather conditions may increase the need for maintenance.",
"A good idea would be to check the wheel spin without traction and compare it with the wheel spin while driving to check if you need servicing."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As noted above, part of the ranking of a climb depends on its placement within a stage: usually, the ending climb of a stage gets \"bumped up\" by a category.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "You can see that in the plots below, which show climbs as categorized by the organizers of the Tour de France itself for the 2012, 2007, 2005, and 2004 editions of the Tour, and plotted by the length of the climb and its average gradient.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If given the length of the climb and gradient, you can calculate the total elevation change for that climb, and the dotted contour lines in each plot show that.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cat 2, 1, and HC climbs are named.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For example, in 2004 the Vilard de Lans climb was classified at a Cat 2 climb rather than (evidently) a Cat 3 because it was the end of the stage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Similarly, in 2005 the climb to Pla d'Adet ended the stage, and it appears that its category was also increased from (arguably) Cat 1 to HC.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As an aside, the Madeleine was climbed in both 2004 and 2005 but, as you can see, the length and gradient of the climbs were different in those years.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "In 2004, the Madeleine was climbed from the southern side; in 2005 and 2012, the approach to the Madeleine was from the north.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2195/R. Chung",
"score": 43
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As has been mentioned, the actual categories are fairly subjective.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Things such as the fame of a climb as well as how the organizers feel about giving out King of the Mountain points on a given stage will affect rankings.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "That said, there are some general rules of thumb if you want to get an idea of how your local climb rates up to a given ranked climb in the tour though.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "There are always exceptions to climb rankings, but this should give you a basic list to start with.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Category 42km or so @",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "6%4km or so @",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "< 4%Category",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "32-3km @ 8% (or less on average, but with very steep pitches)2-4km @ 6%4-6km @ 4%Category 25-10km @ 5-7%10+km @ 3-5%Category 15-10km @ >8%10-15km @ 6%HCOften Category 1 climbs as the last climb of the day15+km @ 8%+",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Alpe D'huez, etc.)20+km @",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "anything uphill.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Galibier is ~=4% over 40km if I recall correctly)",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "As I mentioned though, you can find exceptions for any of these.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Some examples would include: 2006, the TdF included the Cauberg, a key climb of the Amstel Gold race.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "It covers about 1.5km with an average of about 5%, it was ranked Category 3.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "There are a couple hundred meters @ 11% on it and placed just before the finish, it shattered the peloton.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "2010, stage 12 finished just after the Col de la Croix Neuve.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This was ranked as a Category 2, despite being only 3.1km long.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It averaged 10% though, so hardly easy.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Many of the category 4 climbs in the early flat stages would be unranked on a hillier stage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They exist so there is excitement in the king of the mountains classification early.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/47/bikesandcode",
"score": 33
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For Strava climbs there is an objective categorization that is length in meters times grade in percent, with this categories: score = length(m)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "* grade(%) Cat 3 : score > 16000 Cat 2 :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "score > 32000 Cat 1 :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "score > 64000 Cat HC :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "score > 80000",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For example",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Alpe d'Huez has a length of 13800m and average gradient of 8.1% (according to Wikipedia), giving a score of 111780, which would place it as a HC climb since its score is way above 80000.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/21143/pablete",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The tour organizers rank them subjectively based on their steepness, length, and also where they occur in the stage (climbs near the finish garner a higher ranking).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Another criterion which seldom makes a big difference is road condition.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some people feel that the ratings have been inconsistent over the years, or have been inflated in recent years.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In short, there is no scientific way of rating the climbs, it's just a judgement call from the race organizers.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Note, others have indeed tried to quantitatively rank the climbs.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You could apply their methodology to climbs near where you live to figure out how a local climb might be ranked at the end of a tour stage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/288/kevins",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I prefer the cycling lore that it was decided by which gear of a Citroen 2CV you needed to be in to drive up the hill/mountain.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "For HC climbs you had to go up them in reverse.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Scientific?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Not so much.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Perceived Gallic?",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Mais oui!",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14296/ilikeprogramming",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another important criteria is where the climb is placed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you put an otherwise cat 1 climb at the end of a mountain stage with an uphill finish, it becomes an HC climb.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/295/John Lam",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I was told by Doug Dailey (a club cycling colleague and long ago British champion, British Cycling legend), that the categories were historical, and based on early Citroen capabilities (1920’s ?).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "If said car could only go up a hill in 1st gear, it was defined as category 1.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it could do it in second, category 2, etc.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Sounds plausible and very French.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "J",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38724/JulianH",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "In cycle racing, there are five grades or categories for climbs - Category 4, 3, 2, 1 & Hors (Above Category or HC). How do they decide what is category 1 and what makes it so hard it is a HC?",
"title": "How are the categories for climbs decided?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<racing><climbing>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1210",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K"
} | 25_8 | [
[
"Tour organizers rank climbs subjectively based on their steepness, length, and also where they occur in the stage (climbs near the finish garner a higher ranking). Road condition is also taken into consideration. However, cycling lore states that it was decided by which gear of a Citroen 2CV you needed to be in to drive up the hill/mountain.",
"Most people agree that ranking is subjective. It depends on a number of arbitrary factors, such as a climb's fame or the organizers' disposition, as well as on some more realistic parameters, like steepness, length and road condition. Most notably, the rank of the climb may depend on its place in the stage, namely climbs near the end are placed in higher ranks. Strava climbs, on the other hand, employ a more scientific ranking, specifically length times grade in percent. Alternatively, cycling tradition has it that ranking is actually inspired by Citroen 2CV gear position when driving up a mountain."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
4
] | [
[
"The rank of the climb may depend on its place in the stage, namely climbs near the end are placed in higher ranks.",
"Most people agree that ranking is subjective. It depends on a number of arbitrary factors, such as a climb's fame or the organizers' disposition, as well as on some more realistic parameters, like steepness, length, road condition and the climb's position in the stage.",
"Strava climbs employ a more scientific ranking, specifically length times grade in percent.",
"Cycling tradition has it that ranking is actually inspired by Citroen 2CV gear position when driving up a mountain."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I know you asked for a single part answers but since the parts work together and one choice influences another, I don't really see how that can be accomplished in a useful manner.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So I'm going to outline it all.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'll start with the items that you need for any build.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Frame and fork.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Preferably one with horizontal dropouts - more on that later.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Headset to attach the frame and fork.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Stem - note:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the fork, stem, and the headset work together.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They can be threaded or threadless.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They must match.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Handlebars Seatpost.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The seatpost must fit snugly in the seat tube.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Seatpost clamp (Maybe.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is built into some frames.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Seat Front wheel.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "No specific requirements other than it fit into your fork without the tire rubbing.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're using a front brake (and you should), you'll want the size for which the fork was intended.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There are ways to make the brakes work on a wrong-sized wheel, but it's more hassle than it's worth.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Crankset Bottom bracket.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The crankset and bottom bracket must be the compatible with one another.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The bottom bracket also be the same size and have the same thread type as the bottom bracket shell on your frame.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Pedals.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "As others have mentioned, you want your feet attached to the pedals.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Whether you use toe clips or clipless is totally up to your personal preference.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Chain Tires Rear Wheel.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is where we start to get fixie specific.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The rear wheel must have a hub that is designed to accommodate a fixed gear cog and a lock ring.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fixed gear cog Lock ring.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "You need to make sure of two things: your chain line must be ramrod straight and you must have some way of making sure that there's tension on the chain.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Let's talk about tensioning the chain first.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There are three basic ways to tension a chain on a fixie.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can use an eccentric hub, an eccentric bottom bracket, or horizontal dropouts.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Horizontal dropouts are by far the cheapest, easiest and most common.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "An eccentric bottom bracket requires a frame that is designed for one and thus, is less common and more expensive.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "An eccentric hub works just fine if you have to use a frame with vertical dropouts, but it's easy enough (and significantly cheaper) to find an older frame with horizontal semi-horizontal dropouts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Now, for making sure that chainline is stright.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
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"text": "The only way I know of to do it is trial and error.",
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"text": "Build the bike up, and then sight along the chainline.",
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"text": "You'll be able to see whether or not it's straight much the same way you can sight along a pool cue and see a curve in it.",
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"text": "If it's not, you can sometimes move the front chain ring from the inside to the outside of the spider.",
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"text": "Spacers on the rear hub may get you somewhere too, but you can't go too far with those.",
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"text": "If none of that works, you'll have to try a bottom bracket with a different spindle length.",
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"text": "Optionally: a front brake is highly recommended.",
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"text": "In some places, at least one brake is required by law.",
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"text": "If you have rear facing dropouts, a bmx style chain tensioner is really nice to have.",
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"text": "I know that some will disagree , but I would advocate using cleats .",
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"text": "One of the major reasons for riding a fixed is to feel your connection to the effort required to move you - and introducing a disconnect in your foot/pedal takes away from that.",
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"text": "Additionally, braking with your legs is easier if you're not worrying about your foot coming away.",
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"text": "A nice old road frame (80s-vintage w/ horizontal dropout) will get you going in fine bike messenger style.",
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"text": "The same as a normal bike, minus gear derailleurs (brakes can be handy, although not completely necessary).",
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"text": "Get a flipflop hub, it enables you to freewheel by switching the wheel around.",
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"text": "Btw, you expect people to come here and list every single part for a bicycle, tis a bit weird if you ask me ...",
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"text": "A frame with horizontal dropouts is preferable.",
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"text": "If you do end up with a frame that has Vertical Dropouts you might need to add a Chain Tensioner.",
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"text": "For anyone not sure what dropouts are see this pic: http://www.howtobuildafixie.com/lesson-1-dropouts/",
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"score": 2
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"sents": [
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"text": "The most fixie-specific bits are the hub, cog, and lock ring.",
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"text": "I know it's supposed to be one part per post, but these really go together.",
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"text": "You can't use a regular-old free-wheel hub for your fixie (at least without some modifications ).",
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"text": "You'll need a fixed-specific hub which has threads for a lock ring, and a cog to match.",
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"text": "The lock ring is what keeps the cog from loosening when you use the drive train to stop.",
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"text": "Surly offers each of these parts .",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50/Jack M.",
"score": 1
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"sents": [
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"text": "A rear wheel is a good start for a fixie: the front is the same as any other bike, but the rear needs to be built especially for fixed-gear riding.",
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"text": "It will have space for only one cog on each side, typically one for a freewheel cog and one for a fixed-gear cog.",
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"text": "The free side will only have one set of threads, while the fixed side will have two sets of threads.",
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"text": "One of those is for the cog itself, and one is for the lockring used to secure the cog.",
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"text": "The cog needs to be secured because when you pedal backward you loosen the cog, but the lockring is threaded in reverse and will tighten, keeping the cog on.",
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"text": "Lots of fixie riders consider the building of the rear wheel to be part of the process of building a fixed gear.",
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"text": "It's the easiest wheel to build, but they are available for purchase, and usually for less money than buying the components to build your own wheel.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/603/Fixed God",
"score": 1
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Your hub choice depends on whether your frame has vertical or horizontal dropouts.",
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"text": "I converted my old mountain bike (with vertical dropouts) into a single speed building a wheel I built myself using an eccentric Eno hub.",
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"text": "I happen to have the wheel flipped such that it's a free wheel, but I could flip it and use it as a fixie.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/174/Trey Jackson",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've always wanted to build my own bike and I figured that a fixie has the least number of parts. Please post one part per answer. Please explain what I should be looking for in the part. Also please recommend a make/model and give approximate cost.",
"title": "What are the parts needed to build your own fixie?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<fixed-gear><build><parts>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1275",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/105/milesmeow"
} | 25_10 | [
[
"To build a fixie you needd the same parts as for a normal bike, minus gear derailleurs (brakes can be handy, although not completely necessary). More detailed suggestions include an old road frame and a rear wheel built specially for fixed-gear riding. The most fixie-specific parts are the hub, cog and lock ring.",
"Νecessary parts to build a fixie include a frame and fork, a headset to attach the former, a seat front wheel, a crankset bottom bracket, pedals, chain tires, a rear wheel, a fixed gear cog and a lock ring. Some people suggest adding a front break, and using cleats and a flipflop hub. You might also consider selecting an old road frame, which is a stylistic choice, and a frame with horizontal dropouts. In general, gear derailleurs are the only extra item included in regular bicycle parts. You could differentiate a fixie further by adding a rear wheel, using horizontal dropouts, or selecting other eccentric parts."
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[
"Νecessary parts to build a fixie include a frame and fork, a headset to attach the former, a seat front wheel, a crankset bottom bracket, pedals, chain tires, a rear wheel, a fixed gear cog and a lock ring. Some people suggest adding a front break, and using cleats and a flipflop hub.",
"You might consider selecting an old road frame, which is a stylistic choice, and a frame with horizontal dropouts.",
"In general, gear derailleurs are the only extra item included in regular bicycle parts. You could differentiate a fixie further by adding a rear wheel, using horizontal dropouts, or selecting other eccentric parts."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Weight distribution is critical, and it is a bit of a fine balance, much like doing a track stand.",
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"text": "I find that it is easiest to do this by staying seated and crouching towards the front of the bike.",
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"text": "Standing on the pedals will tend to put your weight too far forward and make it difficult to achieve smooth power transfer to the wheels.",
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"text": "Smooth Power Transfer is another important aspect.",
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"text": "Remember that your rear wheel only has a small amount of friction keeping it from slipping.",
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"text": "What you are trying to do is keep the pressure on the pedals strong enough to keep you going up the hill, but not so strong as to make the wheel spin.",
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"text": "Things that can help with this are: Staying in a seated position Concentrating on pedalling in smooth circles, rather than a in separate pushes from each foot Using as high a gear as you can manage while still maintaining a reasonable cadence.",
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"text": "If you are using your lowest granny gear, it is much easier for your legs to overpower the friction between the tyre and the ground.",
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"text": "Balance , working on your low speed balance by practicing track stands and the like will mean that you are less likely to need to put a foot down, and more likely to be able to recover from a brief \"halt\" in your progress.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The back wheel is spinning because there's not enough weight towards the back of the bike because you are not sitting on the seat.",
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"text": "A technique that works well for me is to hold the handle bars in such a way that your elbows are pointed down towards the ground.",
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"text": "This makes sure you stay low and puts pressure on the back wheel.",
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"text": "Also, don't forget to KEEP PEDALING!",
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"text": ";)",
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"text": "If you trust in yourself and don't stop pedaling, you can sometimes recover from a back wheel spin or even a dead stop.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/561/Ken Aspeslagh",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is about fore and aft weight distribution.",
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"text": "Also means you generally won't be sitting.",
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"text": "When your rear wheel spins, you have too much weight distributed forward.",
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"text": "And when your front wheel lifts, too much in the rear.",
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"text": "What to do?",
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"text": "Find a hill and practice distributing your weight until you find the sweet spot where you are neither spinning the rear or lifting the front.",
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"text": "Then there's always the cyclo-cross technique where you pick up your bike and run up the hill.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "From my experience on slippery roots with hard MTB, it is critical to: lift your weight from the wheel hitting the obstacle",
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"text": "(that's what full suspension does for you), like you (should) do when hitting the curb, have appropriate tires (not just tire pressure), ...except for already mentioned: smooth pedaling, weight distribution (low center weight), balance (sideways).",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/406/dhill",
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"sents": [
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"text": "As mentioned the balance (front/back) is key, but there are a few other things that help:",
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"text": "Full suspension - the rear suspension limits wheel bounce when going over obstacles, this helps to prevent the rear wheel spinning out Reduced tyre pressure - same concept as above Bigger wheels - I have found climbing rocky stuff easier on my 29er than on my 26er Practice...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/126/Richard Tasker",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "When mountain biking with my friends, we sometimes end up tackling a severe up hill over rocky ground. I usually find I end up putting a foot down first. I'm not sure what's going wrong. Sometimes my back wheel spins and I lose power and stop, or my front wheel lifts up and I somehow lose balance and end up going off to one side. What techniques can I use to get further up hill before I lose it? Thanks.",
"title": "How do I cycle up steep rocky ground?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><technique>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1360",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/472/Scott Langham"
} | 25_12 | [
[
"When cycling up steep hills, weight distribution is critical, and it is a bit of a fine balance, much like doing a track stand. It is important to keep enough pressure on the pedals to keep moving forward without causing the rear wheel to spin. You should stay sitting down and keep peddling. Practicing track stands can help with getting the right weight distribution.",
"One of the main aspects of cycling up steep rocky ground is finding balance through weight distribution. You can follow a number of techniques towards this end, such as standing on the pedals, staying seated, pedalling circularly, using high gears and practising track stands. You should also practice transferring power evenly and continue pedalling regardless of the circumstances. Moreover, some user advise putting pressure on the back wheel by changing the handle bar hold, so that elbows are looking to the ground. From a technical standpoint, you should use a bike with full suspension, low tire pressure and bigger wheels for better performance."
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"One of the main aspects of cycling up steep rocky ground is finding balance through weight distribution. You can follow a number of techniques towards this end, such as standing on the pedals, staying seated, pedalling circularly, using high gears and practising track stands.",
"You should practice transferring power evenly.",
"You could try putting pressure on the back wheel by changing the handle bar hold, so that elbows are looking to the ground.",
"It is important to continue pedalling regardless of the circumstances.",
"From a technical standpoint, you should use a bike with full suspension, low tire pressure and bigger wheels for better performance."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You should also have a survival bag, mobile phone, whistle, torch and small first aid kit as well as a map and compass.",
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"text": "Remember it may be you that is broken not your bike!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I recommend carrying also a patch kit - something that will help you fix that second flat, or the tube you replaced badly.",
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"text": "Always carry lights, you never know when you'll take longer than you expect and be stuck in the dark.",
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"text": "Have a friend with a car and a bike rack, for the really extreme issues :)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/563/zigdon",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Zipties!",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Zipties!",
"label": [
0
],
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"text": "Zipties!",
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},
{
"text": "Shoe splits - ziptie",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "it Centre pull brakes cable breaks - ziptie",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "it Saddle post emergency - ziptie",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "it Front chainring pops - ziptie",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "it Replacement lights - ziptie",
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},
{
"text": "it Broken bone - ziptie plus sticks Split tyre - stuff with grass, ziptie it if needed :) \" When a man has a hammer",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": ", everything in the world looks like a nail \"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/518/Ivor",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I always carry a bit of electricians tape or duct tape.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I have done several impromptu repairs using the tape.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The best one was a time where I ripped open the sidewall of the tire about 6\" long.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wrapped the replacement tube with tape going from about 4\" before the ruined sidewall to about 4\" after the rip.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Was able to pump up the tire enough to roll 5 miles home.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/133/Rodney Schuler",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When everything else fails: Hybrid MTB/hike shoes",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/444/GvS",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Multi tool w/",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "a replaceable derailleur hanger as part of it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Or just a universal derailleur hanger.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Pretty nice.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Mind you, if you are touring you might as well carry your proper hanger as a 'just in case'.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Having a phillips head screw driver can save you.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I have snapped the head of the front shifter cable mid way through a 160km point to point ride ...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I just dialed in the limit screws and blocked the gear in.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Same can be done for the rear derailleur to get you home.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A quicklink or power link is exceptionally useful to have on a ride.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can fix a broken chain enough to simply get home or if it was just a tweaked link, replace it, and have a fully functioning geared bike to ride home (or continue on your ride).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For mountain biking a spoke key can be essential.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Break a spoke?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Over tension",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the two opposing spokes to even it out.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can wrap the broken spoke around its nearest or, if you have tape, tape it to the other spoke.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A friend has stuffed a tyre full of grass (seriously) enough to ride the trails home.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It did ferment a bit inside and was fairly odiferous after but it worked really well.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/245/tplunket",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Carry a banknote for when you have a tear in the tire casing.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wrap the note around the tube",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(that you just had to fix twice until you realized what was going on) and gently inflate the tire.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The banknote will contain the pressure until you get home.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Unfortunately, your burger budget is now trapped in your bike!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/396/Byron Ross",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The best 'repair'",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I saw that got our group home was when a guy snapped off his headtube.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We grabbed some sticks and jammed them down the tubes and got to the car (1 hour away)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so carry big sticks?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30/curtismchale",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "About to years ago, I had a brand-new Trail Rat battery die on me in the middle of a ride.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Luckily, I had a maglite on me as a backup, and I rigged this up: ( photo credit )",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That's twine and zipties holding it onto the bar.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A few miles later, the maglite died.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I rode in the taillight of the guy I was riding with.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Then it started hailing.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We had no experience riding on slush so we called for help.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(I've since ridden on ice, but I was young and not yet stubborn enough to tough it out.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "These days, when I'm on tour, I bring along those lamps you put on your head on a strap.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I use them as reading lights in my tent, but they also serve as backup headlights.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can straighten a bent wheel by hitting the lawn (or something soft -- not to damage the braking surface).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You need to take it in hands on 8:00-4:00 with the bulge pointing downwards and hit appropriately hard.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Repeat few times correcting for the bulge position and direction until you can ride.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I did that twice and both wheels are still in use.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "One of those is so true (after some spoke tweaking), that you would never say that it was bend to the point it wouldn't go through the fork.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The brake pads leave less than 1mm space on both sides.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/406/dhill",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A spare link of chain and tool - or an entire chain if you are really far past where your legs can carry you if the route is remote.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1819/bmike",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This isn't a \"need\" so much as a \"nice-to-have,\" but I certainly appreciated having handy-wipes (alcohol-soaked individually-packed wipes) along after fixing a flat on my trail ride last Friday.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also useful if whatever you're looking at is so grimy/dusty",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you can't see or handle it properly.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If weight/bulk is not at a premium, in the States it's possible to buy a can or square of diaper wipes.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Same idea, different branding, works just as well.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You may find that your first-aid kit has these already; in that case, just keep 'em stocked!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3631/D.Salo",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I know this is an old question, but it was recently bumped up.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here are a few more suggestions: FiberFix Kevlar emergency replacement spoke.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Grease Monkey Wipes for clean-up after a greasy repair.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "A tire boot to put between the tube & the tire if the tire casing gets cut.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In a pinch, a candy wrapper, gu packet, or paper money will also work.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Don't rely only on CO2 cartridges, carry a pump as well.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "+1 on the zip ties and power link recommendations.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I once saw a photo of an emergency field repair to a broken chainstay using only Popsicle sticks and zip ties.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2572/keithmo",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I do some mountain biking in remote parts of wales. I usually carry a minimal tool kit: pump, spare inner tube, and multi tool. I'm wondering if you have any temporary 'get me home' repair tips I might need one day for when something breaks?",
"title": "What tips do you have for making temporary \"get me home\" repairs?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<repair>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1396",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/472/Scott Langham"
} | 25_13 | [
[
"A \"get me home kit\" shouldinclude a survival bag, mobile phone, whistle, torch and small first aid kit as well as a map and compass. A patch kit is also recommended so you can mend a puncture. A phillips head screw driver can be a life-saver. Othe recommended items include lights, replacement spoke, chain, spoke key and zip ties.",
"It would be a good idea to carry a small bag with essentials, like a phone, a first aid kit and navigation equipment. You could also try setting up a repair kit to fix your vehicle. Depending on your needs, route and carrying capacity, this could include zip ties, electricians tape or duct tape, phillips head screws, a quicklink or power link, a spare link of chain and tool, a replacement spoke, a tire boot, a pump, even a banknote for tore casings. Moreover, it is useful to carry lights in case you delay. Finally, you might want to bring along handy-wipes to clean yourself and your vehicle after a repair."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
4
] | [
[
"It would be a good idea to carry a small bag with essentials, like a phone, a first aid kit and navigation equipment.",
"You could try setting up a repair kit to fix your vehicle. Depending on your needs, route and carrying capacity, this could include zip ties, electricians tape or duct tape, phillips head screws, a quicklink or power link, a spare link of chain and tool, a replacement spoke, a tire boot, a pump, even a banknote for tore casings.",
"It is useful to carry lights in case you delay.",
"You might want to bring along handy-wipes to clean yourself and your vehicle after a repair."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Use your phone to take a photo of your bike location, being sure to get some easy to find landmarks in the photo as well.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "E.g. if you had just taken the photo above and your bike is the front centre one, those two trees should be fairly easy to find again when you come back.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it still takes a while to find (or the search area is very big) and your phone has GPS, you can probably tag the photo with the location as well.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/96/Wilka",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Aside from the fact that your bike is the only one you'll be able to unlock, the best thing for you to do is park in the same location every day.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That can be an invitation to have your bike stolen, however.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can either: Make your bike easily distinguishable from the crowd.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Putting something brightly-colored on the bars might help, attaching a safety flag to the rear rack would be even better.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Either of these calls attention to your bike, again this is something inviting bike theft.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You could jot down a note to yourself for later -- \"bike 3 arches down from the big ugly tree\", for example.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "What I would do is find three or four medium-traffic parking locations and rotate among them .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That way I'd only have a few places to search, but I wouldn't be using the same spot over and over.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In these kind of situations I use the tips that a guru taught me when I was learning the ways of triathlon.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In the transition area, where you leave your bike to collect at the end of the swim, you are quite often assigned a spot for your number (otherwise everyone clamours for the ends of rows).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So it's about landmarks,",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "\"3rd row, lake-side, half way down, past the second tree\", and memorable things, so the the flag (or strategically placed towel) is a good idea too.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Don't make the mistake of using temporary, movable landmarks.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That nice Cervelo might well have come out of the water (or work) before you :)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The key takeawayss here are to make them instantly and accurately memorable.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're in the same area day after day you don't want to to get too confused about whether you're remembering yesterday's or today's position, so @neilfein's rotation of possible locations is a good feint.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In triathlon you're trying to keep it simple (because your mind is inherently fuzzy when you're out of the water and trying to peel off a wetsuit), and at the end of a long day you probably haven't given much thought to your bike since about 2 minutes after you left it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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"text": "My bike is in a secure area in an underground car park, so I leave my helmet on the saddle which is generally still there, un-knocked-off, at the end of the day.",
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"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Buy an electronic key finder.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Attach the keyring part to your bike, when you want to find your bike you press the button on the remote and the keyring beeps and flashes.",
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0
],
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],
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"text": "Range is 40 meters which should easily be enough.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Decorate your bike so that it stands out a bit.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "I usually paint the rear mudguard a bright colour and attach something colourfull to my handlebars.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "And I try to park my bicycle in the same row each day.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/424/jilles de wit",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I painted my mudguards bright red to aid visibility, but it doesn't actually help that much.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The thing that worked best for me was attaching a small pink teddy to the back of the pannier rack (like truckers do to their radiators).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "It's eye-catching even in a crowd.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's less good at Cambridge station, which is an extreme case, but works well in a long row of racks because it sticks out the back where it's visible as you approach the row.",
"label": [
0
],
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{
"text": "I only don't do that any more because I bought a rear light that mounts there.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If you're coming back to your bike after dark, you're better off with unusually placed retroreflectives.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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2
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},
{
"text": "Most car accessory shops sell rolls of retro-reflective tape in various colours, and you can get sheets of stickers which you can cut to shape.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I always put a white triangle on my steerer tube where it's visible from the front, and a red stripe down my rear mudguard.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Since you're probably carrying your bike lights anyway, just turn on the front one and play the beam along the row.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Your own bike will wink back at you.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3512/Dan Hulme",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have more than once had to spend time looking for my bike at the station, what’s your method to remember the rack you put it in? Do any town have a system of numbering or labelling the bike racks so it is easy to find your bike?",
"title": "How do you remember which rack you have left your bike in?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<rack><parking><parking-racks>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1552",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian"
} | 25_15 | [
[
"A number od ways are recommended for finding your bike in a bike rack. Use your phone to take a photo of your bike location, being sure to get some easy to find landmarks in the photo as well. You could invest in an electronic key finder. Another idea is to attach something noticeable to the back of the bike or the handlebars or decorate the bike in a noticeable way. Perhaps you could park in the same location every day. Finally, you could write a note to yourself describing the location. ",
"A good idea would be to note your parking spot with a picture, a GPS tag or a short description to yourself. You could also park at the same area, or alternate between a small number of locations to avoid theft. Alternatively, try giving your bike a distinct look to set it aside from the others. To this end, you could decorate it, paint it an usual colour, attach an object to it, or even place retroflectives around your parking spot. Finally, you might want to buy an electronic key finder."
]
] | {
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[
"A good idea would be to note your parking spot with a picture, a GPS tag or a short description to yourself.",
"You could park at the same area, or alternate between a small number of locations to avoid theft.",
"Try giving your bike a distinct look to set it aside from the others. To this end, you could decorate it, paint it an usual colour, attach an object to it, or even place retroflectives around your parking spot.",
"You might want to buy an electronic key finder."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Because the items are going to have to remain in close proximity, it's unlikely that there is anything that will completely solve your problem, but there are a couple of things you can try.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "If the lights are wired, it is possible that the wire is working as an antenna, and you can use a Ferrite Choke or two on the wire.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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0
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},
{
"text": "Tape one near where the wire leaves the battery, and another to where the wire lead plugs into the light.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "The can be found at stores like RadioShack for a few bucks.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If the lights are wireless, aluminum and tin foil is an excellent reflector for this kind of Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "The first step would be to see if foil will help.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Try wrapping the outside of the lights with foil and repeating the tests you did before.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I doubt you can add foil to the computer because this will interfere with it picking up the wireless signal from the sensors.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If that reduces the interference you can tape the foil to the lights, carefully cutting away the foil around mounting brackets and buttons and see if the EMI is still reduced.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "If the lights can be easily disassembled you can try taking them apart and lining the interior with foil as well; take care not to short out the internal electronics.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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1
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},
{
"text": "Good Luck.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 14
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The problem is the current controller built into the LED bulb has no or ineffective EMC suppression.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "This is extremely common in cheap equipment from unbrand named suppliers, who save costs by not going though the rigourous CE or FCC testing requirements.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "They also cut costs by not placing components (usually a small cap is all thats needed), and lay out the board poorly so it radiates noise.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "I have heard of people successfully soldering a small tantalum cap onto the LED board.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Best palce is as close to the control IC as possible, across the power input wires.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
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},
{
"text": "If that does not work, another across the LED itself would help.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
},
{
"text": "(Careful, they are polarised)",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Alternately wrap it in a conductor",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Tin foil is good), and tie it to ground to create a Faraday cage.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Problem is with it tied to ground, its hard to ride far, and you need a hole to let the light out, but that lets out the RF noise.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A better option is to buy a light that meets CE or FCC EMC standards, but they tend to be more expensive.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I too had major interference problems between my 700lumen Smartlight (no, not the Garmin one, just a brand called Smart) and VDO M6 wireless computer with all 3 sensors (speed, cadence, HRM) stopping when light was on.",
"label": [
0
],
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{
"text": "I tried wrapping the light in normal, household aluminium foil",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and hey, it works!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Not too pretty but no need to spend time making a bracket to mount the light away from the computer.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "By the way, it also started working, without the foil hack, when I held the light more than 12cm from the computer.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29580/ian",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When wrapping your light with tin foil, remember high power means maximum ventilation is required.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "They can chuck out some heat.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "On the computer side, when was the last time you changed the battery in the sender unit attached to the fork?",
"label": [
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Does the problem only occur when your light is on flash or pulse?",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "If so try switching to a steady light instead.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46569/Bernie Green",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For me, foil allowed the computer to operate only if I covered the entire light, cord, and battery with foil, including the lens.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "So, I got a new computer that uses signals from GPS satellites rather than pulses from a magnet on the wheel to measure speed and distance.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
]
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},
{
"text": "This solved the problem.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My light is a Nite Rider MiNewt.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It has a cord: it is not the wireless version.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My old computer was a Specialized Sport.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "My new computer is a Garmin Edge 25.",
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0
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I had used the MiNewt with other wireless computers without problems.",
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0
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0
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[
-1
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29982/nanofish",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another thought is to disassemble the light, and paint the inside of it with electrically-conductive paint.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
5
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{
"text": "Downsides are that the light is more capable of shorting should anything go wrong with the internal wiring, and you might damage the light by disassembling.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "You could also paint the outside of the light, but it would suffer from wear.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Note the paint used MUST be electrically conductive,",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "not just silver-coloured.",
"label": [
0
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "These paints are expensive, probably more expensive than a new light.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "My LED lights seem to be causing my wireless cycling computer to not pickup the signal (suggested by the manufacturer and verified through tests at home). What strategies/options are there for reducing the interference outside of repositioning the computer (since I've tried all available positions)?",
"title": "Stopping interference between LED lights and wireless cycling computer",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<bike-computer><led-lights>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1556",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30/curtismchale"
} | 25_16 | [
[
"To stop lights interfering with the computer follow these steps. If the lights are wired, it is possible that the wire is working as an antenna, and you can use a Ferrite Choke or two on the wire. If the lights are wireless, aluminum and tin foil is an excellent reflector for this kind of Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI). The first step would be to see if foil will help. I tried wrapping the light in normal, household aluminium foil. If that reduces the interference you can tape the foil to the lights, carefully cutting away the foil around mounting brackets and buttons and see if the EMI is still reduced. However, a better option is to buy a light that meets CE or FCC EMC standards, but they tend to be more expensive. ",
"There seem to be several options. In case the lights are wired, you could try taping a couple of ferrite chokes in the battery wire output and in the light input. In case the lights are wireless, on the other hand, try wrapping foil around the outside of the lights, except for the area around brackets and buttons. You could also try covering the lights' inside with foil. Fastening a small tantalum capacitor close to the control IC of the LED board, or adding a capacitor right across the board, might also solve the problem. Finally, you might consider using a computer operating with GPS satellite signal, or painting the lights' inside with electrically-conductive paint."
]
] | {
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[
"In case the lights are wired, you could try taping a couple of ferrite chokes in the battery wire output and in the light input.",
"In case the lights are wireless, a good solution would be to wrap foil around the outside of the lights, except for the area around brackets and buttons. You could also try covering the lights' inside with foil.",
"Fastening a small tantalum capacitor close to the control IC of the LED board, or adding a capacitor right across the board, might solve the problem.",
"A possible, if more expensive, solution would be to only buy lights that meet CE or FCC EMC requirements.",
"You might consider using a computer operating with GPS satellite signal, rather than magnet pulses from the wheel to avoid this issue.",
"Painting the lights' inside with electrically-conductive paint might overcome this problem."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Only cross if you are walking and pushing your bike.",
"label": [
1
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "If you are riding, you are a vehicle and generally you are required to obey all traffic control devices in the same way any other vehicle operator is.",
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1
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1
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "There are exceptions, like the Idaho Yield laws, but generally you have to behave like a car.",
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"text": "The other thing to think about is that the more you behave like a vehicle, the more predictable you are, and the more predictable the behavior of other vehicle operators will be.",
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"score": 26
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'm pretty sure it's illegal.",
"label": [
0
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},
{
"text": "Of course, different areas might have different laws on the matter, but the guideline is \"if you're riding your bike, you're a vehicle and should obey all the same rules\".",
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1
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"text": "I suppose if you wanted to cross on the crosswalk, you could dismount, and walk your bike across, but I doubt that's worth the effort.",
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1
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/563/zigdon",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I don't pay attention to walk signals, but if I know the way a particular light's cycle works, I will indeed go through when it's red.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In California we have a lot of protected left turns, where the folks turning left get a green arrow and the opposing straight-through traffic still has a red light.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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"text": "Protected lefts generally happen with two opposing left turn lanes simultaneously getting the arrow.",
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"text": "Often, the turn lanes will empty before the green arrow goes away.",
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"text": "If the turn lane across the intersection from you still has an arrow, but the lane itself is devoid of cars, then you can safely cross the intersection.",
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},
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"text": "In order to reduce the ire from automobile drivers, I refrain from blatantly crossing red intersections, but instead use the above knowledge to get a head start on cars before the light changes so that I can be through the intersection before they start moving.",
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"text": "It is, as usual, advisable to learn your local regulations.",
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"text": "For example, Washington state law explicitly allows cyclists to ride on sidewalks and in crosswalks, as long as they yield to pedestrians while doing so.",
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"text": "In your given scenario, use due caution, motorists noticing a red light on the cross street may not expect someone in the crosswalk in front of them.",
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"text": "You are not walking, you are riding a bicycle, which is considered a vehicle.",
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"text": "Act accordingly unless its early Sunday or no one is on the road.",
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"text": "I think that technically you're supposed to walk across",
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"text": "but I make a decision on how busy the intersection is.",
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"text": "If there are plenty of pedestrians, I get off.",
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"text": "That's pretty rare where I live in western Massachusetts.",
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"text": "Most of the time, I ride through.",
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] | {
"question": "I frequently come to stop lights in which there is an all-way stop and a pedestrian signal. I always stop at such lights, but I'm wondering if I should then bike slowly across after determining that it is safe and I will not be interfering with any pedestrians who are crossing, or if I should wait until the light turns green just as I would were I driving a car.",
"title": "If I'm riding on the road, and there is a red light but a walk signal in my direction, should I go?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><legal><etiquette>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1579",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell"
} | 25_17 | [
[
"S1: If you are riding, you are a vehicle and generally you are required to obey all traffic control devices in the same way any other vehicle operator is. Of course, different areas might have different laws on the matter, but the guideline is \"if you're riding your bike, you're a vehicle and should obey all the same rules\". It is, as usual, advisable to learn your local regulations. ",
"While you are cycling, you should adhere to the same rules as other vehicles, therefore you should wait for the light to turn green. You should only cross a red light if you have dismounted from you bike and are walking it on foot. Regardless, it may be a good idea to get informed on your local regulations on the subject. There is also the chance you might see a green arrow for the pedestrians and no cars in a protected left turn. It is safe to cross, but you should only use that information to get a head start."
]
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"You should only cross a red light if you have dismounted from you bike and are walking it on foot.",
"While you are cycling, you should adhere to the same rules as other vehicles, therefore you should wait for the light to turn green.",
"It may be a good idea to get informed on your local regulations on the subject.",
"If you see a green arrow for the pedestrians and no cars in a protected left turn, it is safe to cross, but you should only use that information to get a head start."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It really depends on your budget, but you should check this out (or anything similar), from Gore bike wear : 179.99 USD MSRP http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_TULTRO?landingid=1208436873480O",
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"text": "They aren't the tightest pants out there, but \"real\" tight pants are very rarely (trying not to say never) waterproof because of the type of fabric used to make them.",
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"text": "An alternative idea would be a nylon pant (waterproof, windproof, but absulutely not warm)",
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"text": "that's relatively tight with a warm baselayer.",
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"text": "I have a pair of Sugoi long tights for commuting in the winter.",
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"text": "I add or subtract a base layer depending on conditions.",
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"text": "I don't really care if it's Sugoi or not; other companies make bike-tights compatible with base layers.",
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"text": "Maybe I choose a different brand next year?",
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"text": "Depends on what's on sale...",
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"text": "Foxwear makes great rain pants and jackets.",
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"text": "They're a little baggy, but they close at the ankle --",
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"text": "no ankle clip required.",
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"text": "They're also good layered over tights for winter riding.",
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"text": "I have two pair, and will use them until they fall apart (which may take some time).",
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"text": "The trick to staying warm for your winter rides is layers.",
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"text": "Keep in mind your overpants aren't there to keep you warn, per se, just to keep you dry.",
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"text": "You can wear under them pants, long johns, long warm spandex, whatever floats your boat.",
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"text": "That's part of why they would be baggy too.",
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"text": "When I used to commute in Boston through the winter, I wore thick long spandex pants under my snow pants, and that, combined with the heat generated by riding, was enough to keep me warm through -5F blizzards :)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "REI has a Novara brand rain pant that isn't too expensive.",
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"text": "I use mine all year round, rain or snow.",
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"text": "I don't wear them when it is warm, as they tend to keep moisture in as well as out, which leads to soaked clothing.",
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"text": "However, I believe that is a problem with most rain gear.",
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"text": "I got my pants on sale for around $30 a few years ago.",
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"text": "When I go to the website now, I see that the men's version is around $100 in the catalog.",
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"text": "I'm not sure why the price difference. www.rei.com",
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"text": "I have a pair of Polartec tights from Col d'Lizard that are the cat's pajamas (or some such metaphor).",
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"text": "Definitely not baggy (when you see them you'll understand -- \"I'm going to fit into THOSE???\"), and plenty warm down to maybe 5-10F, but they breathe well -- never get clammy.",
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"text": "I no longer do winter cycling, but I often use the tights when I run the snow blower.",
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"text": "The snow doesn't stick to them and they keep me warm in the wind without overheating.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I wear my Craft Storm Tights for my winter commuting and even some recreational longer rides (I get too hot when I wear them for an interval type of workout). http://shop.craftsports.us/sports/bike/mens-pxc-storm-tights.html",
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"text": "They have a thermal liner and keep me nice and warm.",
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"text": "I also like them for the ease of use, I just slip them over my underwear and off",
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"text": "I go.",
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"text": "Not skin tight but not loose around the lower legs.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2953/Glenn Gervais",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I got the MEC Roubaix Tights this year",
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"text": "and I have found them surprisingly warm, despite that they are quite thin.",
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"text": "I wore them down to -15 Celsius and had no problems with my legs getting cold.",
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"text": "Depending on where you live, and what you consider \"winter\" something like this might be just fine.",
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] | {
"question": "Winter is soon upon us here, and I'm gearing up for the season. I currently have a pair of rain over-pants which I use during the other 3 seasons, but honestly I really dislike them. They're baggy, requiring the use of an ankle band, and not entirely warm. They do a decent job of keeping out water, but I don't know how they will perform with snow. Can someone recommend a type of pants which are more form-fitting and will do well in both rain and snow?",
"title": "Finding good pants for winter biking",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<winter><clothes>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1623",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25/Nik Reiman"
} | 25_18 | [
[
"The trick to staying warm for winter rides is layers. You should keep in mind your overpants aren't there to keep you warn, per se, just to keep you dry, so nylon is good - light and waterproof but not warm. Under the rainpants, tights are good and there are many brands available on the market. Obviously what you buy depends on your budget.",
"There is a number of specialized products for winter biking, varying from pants to tights. The recommended brands include Gore bike wear, Sugoi, Foxwear, REI, Col d'Lizard, Craft Storm and MEC Roubaix. A good idea would be to use water- and windproof nylon pants, which however should be paired with additional clothes, as they are not warm. More to the point, You might want to consider waring layers, instead of specialized bike wear, given that overpants are only intended to keep you dry."
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"There is a number of specialized products for winter biking, varying from pants to tights. The recommended brands include Gore bike wear, Sugoi, Foxwear, REI, Col d'Lizard, Craft Storm and MEC Roubaix.",
"A good idea would be to use water- and windproof nylon pants, which however should be paired with additional clothes, as they are not warm.",
"You might want to consider waring layers, instead of specialized bike wear, given that overpants are only intended to keep you dry."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Endomondo !!!!",
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"text": "Free your endorphins : )",
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"text": "I love this app!!!",
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"text": "I have used it to track over 1,000 miles of cycling this year.",
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"text": "The android app is just a small part of the entire service.",
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"text": "With endomondo you get challenges with your friends live updating of your route global challenges personal bests summary teams more With their great android app",
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"text": "you get the ability to track duration with option of auto pause distance speed avg.",
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"text": "speed calories heart rate average heart rate listen/control music view current position and track on map view previous workouts set goal and get mile by mile updates on progress",
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"text": "I personally really enjoy being able to use my bluetooth heart rate monitor with this android app. http://www.zephyr-technology.com/9600.0112.html",
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"text": "All my workout info is then updated live to the endomondo website where I can later inspect my workout in detail.",
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"text": "If you are looking for a service/app to track your rides/workouts you have got to give this one a go.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/615/Mike Grace",
"score": 18
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"sents": [
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"text": "My Tracks is an app by Google that will record a path you rode with stats.",
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"text": "You can upload your path to Google Maps and stats to Google Docs, or create a gpx/kml file for uploading to other biking, running, or fitness / mapping apps.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 16
}
},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "A few folks I work with use Strava ( http://www.strava.com ).",
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"text": "There are android and iphone apps, and you can also upload files from Garmin devices.",
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"text": "Aside from the standard gps, route tracking stuff, the web site has a social focus.",
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"text": "You can follow other riders if you wish.",
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"text": "The site also allows you to define road segments and will show leaderboards, king of the mountain badges, and personal bests.",
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"answer_details": {
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"score": 13
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've used Sports Tracker a lot on Symbian phones and they now have an Android version coming out (as well as an iPhone version).",
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"text": "It can beep on auto-laps for example every kilometre.",
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"text": "You can review your workouts on the phone, something I don't think Endomondo can do.",
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"text": "You can use it with a Bluetooth Polar heart rate monitor.",
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"text": "You can see things like this on both the phone and website: route plotted on a scrollable, zoomable map with lap markers (using Open Street Map), duration, distance, average and max speed, energy use, charts of altitude vs. distance, heart rate distribution (light, moderate, hard), heart rate vs. time, speed vs. time and lap timings.",
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"text": "You can upload to their site (which is a bit Flash heavy for my liking) with various permissions (private, visible to friends, visible to everyone), Twitter, Facebook.",
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"text": "Also if you take photos during the workout, it can upload those to the site too, and shows them on the map.",
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},
{
"text": "You can also edit and export workout routes, and replay them.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1593/Hugo",
"score": 7
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "CardioTrainer is an app that also works with the GPS functionality to track your workouts, and can create tracks and virtual training partners if you do the same routes.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use RunKeeper Pro ; from January it's free for Android; here is the description in Android Market.",
"label": [
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],
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1
],
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},
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"text": "It's not only for cycling, but you can choose the activity type to be tracked by GPS, define custom routes and use audio coaching to know your distance, speed, time; then you can see online, in your personal account, a detailed report and a map with your path; if you want, you can also share those details with friends, and create or attend races.",
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{
"text": "You can also monitor your heart rate, if using along with",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "Polar WearLink®+ transmitter with Bluetooth",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "® for the Android,",
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{
"text": "but I didn't try it.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1231/Adinia",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "SportsTrackLive is another app listed as supporting the Zephyr heart rate monitor.",
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],
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1
],
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{
"text": "I haven't tried it; anyone who has, feel free to comment or edit this answer with more information.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "iMapMyRide is great.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "It records and uploads all your route data to the iMapMyRide web site.",
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"text": "Once uploaded you can view the route on a Google map, see the total distance travelled, see a chart of the elevation plus the total gain, add notes, log the workout and share the route with others.",
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"text": "I really can't recommend it enough",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/446/Phil Hale",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My app IpBike Is designed for a phone mouted on the bike, the emphesis on giving you all the information in a clear and consistant way on one basic screen while riding.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Has full support for ANT+ sensors HR, speed, Cadence Speed and Cadance and Power sensors on compatible phones.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Pressure based altitude of compatible phones.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Direct upload for Stava, Runkeeper and Attackpoint.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Can export rides as .gpx, .tcx, .csv, .fit",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3723/Ifor",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "VeloComputer appears to be an attempt at turning a phone into a complete cycling computer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Version 7, which is available for Android, uses GPS for measuring position and speed, and the accelerometer to measure cadence.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "They also sell Bluetooth enabled wheel and pedal sensors, for more accurate speed and cadence, though those seem to only be supported on Blackberry at the moment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I have not tried this; it looks interesting, though some of the reviews indicate that it's a bit flaky.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Does anyone else have experience with it?",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Run.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "GPS is mentioned in the list of apps supporting the Zephyr heart rate monitor.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I haven't tried it; anyone who has, feel free to comment or edit this answer with more information.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Not the most convenient way of measuring your heart rate while cycling, but Instant Heart Rate is a neat program which might be useful when you to take a break.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "You use your phone's camera and LED flash (if it has one, otherwise any bright light source) to measure your heart rate by pressing the camera and flash against your finger, and it detects fluctuations in the oxygen content of your blood by detecting changes in color.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Try this free app for measuring your heart rate: Sports Heart Rate Monitorsee: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.js.hr you do not need any external hardware and it measures your heart rate quickly.",
"label": [
1
],
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{
"text": "You just need to press it softly against your chest and it will readout your beats per minute.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3652/nokia",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You didn't say what you want your app to do.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "However, I use OruxMaps for navigating and tracking.",
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],
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{
"text": "I like it because you can create a local copy of online maps to use where 3G internet connection is not available",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3666/Eran Ben-Natan",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have an Android smartphone, with GPS, accelerometer, 3G internet connection, and other features that seem useful for bicycling. Are there any good bicycling apps on Android? One app per answer please; feel free to answer multiple times.",
"title": "Bicycling apps for Android",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<bike-computer><software><android>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1689",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/454/Brian Campbell"
} | 25_19 | [
[
"Endomondo, My Tracks by Google, CardioTrainer, RunKeeperPro, SportsTrackLive, iMapMyRide, IpBike and Velocomputer are just some of the Apps available for Android. Sports Tracker on Symbian is now bringing out an Android and iPhone version.",
"There is a number of available bicycling apps for Android, which involve navigating and tracking, documenting your health statistics, managing your training and finding virtual training partners. These include Endomondo, Strava, My Tracks, Sports Tracker, CardioTrainer, RunKeeper Pro, SportsTrackLive, iMapMyRide, IpBike, VeloComputer, Zephyr heart rate monitor, Instant Heart Rate, Sports Heart Rate Monitorsee and OruxMaps."
]
] | {
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[
"There is a number of available bicycling apps for Android, which involve navigating and tracking, documenting your health statistics, managing your training and finding virtual training partners. These include Endomondo, Strava, My Tracks, Sports Tracker, CardioTrainer, RunKeeper Pro, SportsTrackLive, iMapMyRide, IpBike, VeloComputer, Zephyr heart rate monitor, Instant Heart Rate, Sports Heart Rate Monitorsee and OruxMaps."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Cycling gloves come in different varieties (like full-fingered or half-fingered).",
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"text": "Typically: Cycling gloves have extra padding at the palms, which for me makes a difference when riding for hours at a time.",
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"text": "They protect your palms in case you attempt to use them to break a fall.",
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"text": "Like regular gloves, they can keep your hands warm in cold weather, especially since your hands aren't moving as much as your legs.",
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"text": "My particular pair of cycling gloves have a \"towel\" built in at the base of the thumb \"finger\"",
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"text": "so I can actually wipe off water/sweat by running my fist over it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/632/In silico",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Cycling gloves do a few basic things: reduce friction between your hands and handlebars, which could otherwise cause blisters dampen vibrations which might cause hand/finger numbness reduce pressure on your ulnar nerve, which also causes numbness Of course, if none of these are problems for you, it's fine to ride without them.",
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"text": "Other types of gloves should offer similar benefits too (wool gloves with \"grippy\" palms are nice in cold, wet weather).",
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"text": "I try to ride without cycling gloves for rides up to an hour to toughen my palms and reduce the bizarre tan lines the gloves create.",
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"text": "But for longer rides (especially randonneuring, which is 200km+)",
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"text": "I can't ride without them.",
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"text": "What else can you use them for?",
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"text": "Basically anything where a padded palm would help.",
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"text": "They make great workout gloves, and I've occasionally used a pair for paddling, doing yard work or helping someone move.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Cycling gloves dampen the vibrations coming into your hands from your handlebars.",
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{
"text": "I find that if I cycle for more than one or two hours without gloves I slowly loose feeling in the tips of my fingers",
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},
{
"text": "and I get a tingling feeling in the pinky side of my palms near my wrist.",
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"text": "This slowly spreads to essentially make both my hands feel numb.",
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{
"text": "It goes away quickly when I get off the bike at first, but during cycling holidays where riding a bike is a daily activity I ended up with numb hands essentially all the time.",
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{
"text": "Simple cycling gloves have solved this for me.",
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},
{
"text": "Note that front suspension would probably address at least part of the same problem.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/424/jilles de wit",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For bmx, the greatest benefit is grip.",
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},
{
"text": "If your hands are sweaty, you'll have to apply a lot of extra force to prevent throttle grip.",
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},
{
"text": "Gloves eliminate all that.",
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},
{
"text": "Also, the padded palms work nice to prevent meat paw",
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},
{
"text": ", terry cloth thumb is good for wiping sweat away, and there is usually some tacky material on the fingers for good brake lever grip.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/66/dotjoe",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Gloves do help with hand numbness/discomfort, but the primary benefit to me is safety.",
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},
{
"text": "If you fall and take a handlebar spill, your hands won't be torn up if you instinctively put your hands out to protect you.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Padding and warmth are covered in other answers, but in the winter I have a third use.",
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],
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2
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},
{
"text": "In the warmer weather my fingers swell slightly, which doesn't happen so much in the winter, so my wedding ring has a tendency to be looser in colder weather.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Long fingered gloves stop me from worrying so much about it slipping off when on bumpier rides.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When you fall off a bike your natural reactions will lead to putting your hands out to stop your fall.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Your hands are quite likely to hit the ground first so gloves provide some protection against that.",
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],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Comfort is another factor - damping vibration and providing protection from the elements.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Depending upon your climate you may want different gloves for different seasons.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I wear motorcycle gloves on my bicycle in the winter.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "To answer the second question.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Gloves like that are great for working on cars...",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "The padded palm keeps you from tearing up your hands on old rusty parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The top of the hand is covered for when you slip and bang into sharp rusty parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The fingers are exposed so you can still easily grip small parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "I find they work much better than traditional \"full finger\" mechanics gloves...",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/349/Brian Knoblauch",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "aside from the warmth and padding, I also wear them to protect my hands in case of wipeout.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "grinding gravel into my palms doesn't sound like a fun thing to do.",
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0
],
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],
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/269/D'Arcy Norman",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One thing that I use my gloves for on nearly every ride is putting my palm down on the tops of my tires after going through a section of stone dust or cinders.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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]
},
{
"text": "In fact, just today I was forced to ride through a section where some fresh blacktop spillage stuck to my tires.",
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],
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"text": "A quick drag on each wheel and the tires were completely clean again.",
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"text": "One other purpose for gloves is that if you have rubber grips, for example grip shifters on a hybrid or mountain bike, gloves will protect them from deterioration due to sweaty palms.",
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"text": "I ride two bikes with rubber grips, one always with gloves and one without.",
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"text": "After a few years, the grip shifters on my hybrid are ruined and the rubber can't be replaced without replacing the whole shifter.",
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"text": "The other bike's grips still look great after 8 years.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Trying not to mention what has already been said but:",
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"text": "Gloves that wick well will also help to keep you cooler (and cut offs are not a significant disadvantage in this sense, due to surface area to volume ratios and blood flow.)",
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"text": "The main reasons for choosing cut off gloves as opposed to more protective full finger gloves (given that both can keep you more or less equally cool if made out of the right materials) is partially personal preference, but often relates to better feel when dealing with zips, packed food/energy, gear adjustment and not having to take them off when working on the bike, some also claim a superior feel for the brakes.",
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"text": "What other activities are they useful for: potentially anything where you grip anything but don't need your finger tips covered or are willing to take the risk of finger tip injury, also for typing in the cold.",
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"text": "I use gym gloves for cycling, better value, fit AND durability (in my case) than cycling equivalents at twice the price.",
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"text": "I only use actual cycling gloves when it comes to full-finger + extra protection, or waterproof + breathable (since those are expensive in any sport, so I may as well have something with more attention to cycling relevant details).",
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] | {
"question": "I haven't cycled for many years already and long ago when I was cycling I didn't pay much attention to equipment. Now I see that many cyclists wear a certain kind of gloves - that only cover the palm and leave the fingers uncovered. What's the purpose of wearing such gloves (and not usual gloves for example)? In what non-cycling activities can such gloves be useful?",
"title": "What's the purpose of cycling gloves?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<accessories><clothes><gloves>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1732",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/628/sharptooth"
} | 25_20 | [
[
"Cycling gloves do a few basic things: reduce friction between your hands and handlebars, which could otherwise cause blisters dampen vibrations which might cause hand/finger numbness reduce pressure on your ulnar nerve, which also causes numbness Of course, if none of these are problems for you, it's fine to ride without them. ",
"One of the main benefits of cycling gloves is padding, which tends to reduce friction, numbness and vibrations, and makes for a more comfortable riding experience overall. Moreover, cycling gloves are a means of protecting your hands in the event of a fall or a crash, and keep them warm or cool, depending on the weather. Finally, cycling gloves provide better grip for the rider, and protect rubber from sweat."
]
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"One of the main benefits of cycling gloves is padding, which tends to reduce friction, numbness and vibrations, and makes for a more comfortable riding experience overall.",
"Cycling gloves are a means of protecting your hands in the event of a fall or a crash.",
"You can use cycling gloves to keep your hands warm or cool depending on the weather.",
"Cycling gloves provide better grip for the rider, and protect rubber from sweat."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Well, it depends a lot on the specific model of bike, and likely even on the exact frame size.",
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"text": "You can probably eyeball it to get a good idea.",
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"text": "Remember that larger tires are both wider and stick out more from the wheel.",
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"text": "On a road bike, odds are high that you can put a slightly larger (say, go from 25mm to 30mm) tire but not a hugely larger tire.",
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"text": "If you want to make a big jump you probably also want to get wheels with a wider rim.",
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"text": "Note that for off-road tires, the knobs aren't usually counted in the mm size but definitely do affect whether or not the tires fit on your bike.",
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"text": "Look for: Front and rear:",
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"text": "Brake clearance — can a larger tire fit in the brakes?",
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"text": "If this is the only issue, you can get different brakes",
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"text": "Rear:",
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"text": "Stay width — will a wider tire rub on any of the stays (rear)?",
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"text": "Rear:",
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"text": "Stay bridge clearance* —",
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"text": "will a larger tire hit the bridge between seat stays or chain stays?",
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"text": "Rear: Seat tube clearance —",
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"text": "many bikes have a geometry where too large of a wheel/tire will hit the seat tube above the cranks Front: Fork clearance — how much room is there under the fork crown?",
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"text": "(height and width)",
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"text": "Down tube clearance — how much extra room before the front tire hits the downtube?",
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"text": "Road frames come in a wide variety of styles, so it's impossible to give an exact answer without knowing more about your bike.",
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"text": "Also keep in mind that wider tires also have a larger diameter, so your bike has to have enough clearance for both.",
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"text": "A typical modern road bike with caliper brakes is going to have very tight tolerances: many will max out at a 28mm tire, some at only 25mm.",
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"text": "When mine was built, I had the frame customized and used long reach brakes just to allow 28mm tires plus fenders --",
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"text": "even then it's a tight fit.",
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"text": "Another problem with calipers and wide tires is that you may not have enough brake cable slack to remove the wheel easily (I have to deflate mine slightly to get the tire past the brake shoes).",
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"text": "Touring and cyclocross frames tend to be built with much more generous proportions and have room for bigger tires.",
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"text": "Using cantilever brakes also helps give much more tire clearance vs. calipers.",
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"text": "My last touring frame used 32mm tires and could have easily gone up to at least 35mm, if not bigger.",
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"text": "If you're putting on much larger tires, you should also consider larger rims (see Sheldon Brown's tire/rim sizing chart ).",
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"text": "Using a big tire on too small a rim is a recipe for trouble.",
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"text": "Plus a wider rim adds more strength.",
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"text": "So you may need a wheel rebuild to make this happen.",
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"text": "If your bike has 700C wheels, you could convert to 650B.",
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"text": "The wheel radius is only 25mm less, so most things work the same, but you have that much more room for tires and fenders.",
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"text": "You'll probably need to replace your brakes with long-reach brakes.",
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"score": 8
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"sents": [
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"text": "In the eight years since this question was written, road-style bikes with fatter, grippier tyres for off-road use have become pretty common.",
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"text": "They're usually called \"gravel bikes\" or \"adventure bikes\".",
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"text": "Plenty of companies are making bikes of this type: essentially, a relaxed-geometry road-ish frame with enough tyre clearance for something like 40mm tyres for use on ground that's, say, as rough as a hiking trail but not so rough that you'd need a mountain bike.",
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"text": "I have a Norco Search 2017 Sora and actually has 700x38C tires (B'Twin tires).",
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"text": "It came originally with Schwalbe Road Cruiser 700x32c K-Guard.",
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"text": "So, it depends what are the height and width of the fork.",
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"text": "For our small expedition with our bicycles in Patagonia we invested into slightly larger tires and more durable ones (we choose the Schwalbe Marathon XR in 700C, the widest our bike frame could accomodate).",
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"text": "It did quite a change, you hear more the tire noises, it helps better in muddy terrain and feels more confortable in gravel roads or in the fields.",
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"text": "However, it's not really good in sandy parts or when the gravels are too big or too loose.",
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"text": "Overall it was a good and needed change, it would have been much less confortable to ride down in Patagonia with out those wider tires.",
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"text": "If you decide to change yours, follow freiheit advice or go pay a visit to a local bicycle shop.",
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"text": "It's not always possible to put different tires because of the rim, brakes or frame.",
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] | {
"question": "I am curious if anyone has put larger tires (mountainish) on their road bike. I am thinking about doing this to do some riding on gravel roads/touring/commuting from rural areas. I have an older steel Norco. How rough can I ride this with bigger tires without damaging the bike? (Purely just for curiosity. I am not planning on doing any drops etc but if I drop off a curb now and then does that matter?)",
"title": "Larger tires on a road bike",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><road-bike>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1886",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude"
} | 25_23 | [
[
"It is not always possible to put mountain bike wheels on a road bike because of the rim, brakes and frame. It depends on the bike. To find out if this change can be done, follow the advice on freiheit or pay a visit to your local bike shop. ",
"Determining tire size, and whether you could use larger tires at all, may depend on the bike's model, as well as on specific parameters like the rim, brakes and frame. On an average road bike there is little leeway for larger tires, and the effect of a tire change is not great. If the change is performed, it is best to have it done by a professional."
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"Determining tire size, and whether you could use larger tires at all, may depend on the bike's model, as well as on specific parameters like the rim, brakes and frame.",
"On an average road bike there is little leeway for larger tires, and the effect of a tire change is not great.",
"If the change is performed, it is best to have it done by a professional."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Pushing down on the pedals is a natural thing.",
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"text": "So to improve the \"roundness\" of your pedal stroke, completely ignore the down-stroke, instead focus on the following: Continuing the pedal stroke \"across the bottom\".",
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"text": "This will probably feel something like trying to scrape mud off the bottom of your shoe.",
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"text": "On the up-stroke, focus on driving your knee upwards toward the handlebar.",
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"text": "Focusing on the non-instinctive 3/4 of the pedal stroke has really helped me improve form.",
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"text": "Using a fixed gear (or staying in a low-ish gear), find someplace where you can spin out your cadence (a slight down-hill but not too steep).",
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"text": "Focusing on the 3/4 of the stroke that isn't pushing straight down, pedal as fast as you can until you find yourself starting to bounce.",
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"text": "Keep doing this, and as you get better at the non-down-stroke, you'll find that the pedaling cadence at which you start bouncing will get higher and higher, as your pedal stroke gets more round.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "One of the best reasons for having a round pedal stroke is efficiency.",
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"text": "If you pedal stroke is smooth and efficient, you will get more power to the wheels with less effort.",
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"text": "Some exercises for improving your pedal stroke; the winter is a great time for such low intensity exercises.",
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"text": "Pedal a very big gear up",
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"text": "hill (20-40 rpm) for intervals of 5-10 min x 2-5/day Pedal with one leg at a time",
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"text": "2-5x4-10 min x twice/week Ride rollers Ride a fixed gear combine two or more of the above.",
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"text": "Also note that it is not actually possible to get a perfect pedal stroke.",
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"text": "I learned the above exercises from one of Massimo Testa's apprentices who was coaching the UC Davis cycling team.",
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"text": "My pedal stroke was smoother than many professionals who had been through the lab, but as you can see (below) my dead spot (going over the top) was only 1/6 as powerful as my down stroke (at 90 degrees).",
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"text": "This test was done with pressure sensors on each pedal.",
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"text": "My right and left feet are shown by the blue and red lines respectively, at a constant power of 120W and about 90 rpm.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/839/David LeBauer",
"score": 11
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"text": "Pushing and pulling and rhythm: You'll certainly need clipless pedals - you won't develop a decent stroke if you're only pushing down on the pedal.",
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"text": "You need to be pulling as well.",
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"text": "I would advocate spending some time riding a fixie, too.",
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"text": "If you have to keep you legs moving, you will start to feel more connected to your bike and its speed.",
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"text": "Get yourself a cadence monitor and try to maintain an even cadence when in different gears.",
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"text": "When you're not on your fixed, concentrate on spinning your legs.",
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"text": "Perhaps try a gear or two higher than you might, purely to spin up a higher cadence.",
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"text": "Also maybe trying a stationary spinning bike.",
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"text": "First, make sure that you're properly fitted to the bike.",
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"text": "Very hard to get it right without the basics being in place.",
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"text": "If you ride on a trainer some of the time, consider getting a set of rollers.",
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"text": "They force you to ride smoothly at a high cadence so you don't bounce up and down, and I've seen them dramatically improve my girlfriend's pedalling technique.",
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"text": "They're much better for your technique than a turbo trainer.",
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"question": "I know a part of biking endurance and speed come from having a perfect pedal stroke. What should I do to improve my pedal stroke?",
"title": "How can I improve my pedal stroke?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pedals><technique><best-practice>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1912",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/125/Gabriel Solomon"
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[
"There are a number of ways to improve pedal stroke. First, you could get a cadence monitor and try to maintain an even cadence when in different gears. Some exercises for improving your pedal stroke would help; these could be done in winter, which is a great time for such low intensity exercises. A pushing and pulling and rhythm is required and to do this clipless pedals are needed. It is hard to develop a decent stroke if you're only pushing down on the pedal. Finally, spending some time riding a fixie is another tip.",
"It would be a good idea to follow a specific pedal technique, aiming to round your stroke and start bouncing. You could try relevant exercises for your pedal stroke. To this end, you could get started on a stationary bike, use clipless pedals to push and pull with the same rhythm and force, or try rollers. A fixed gear bike could also be useful while you train. Moreover, you could experiment with higher gears while trying to maintain a steady cadence. It is possible to use a cadence monitor to better track your progress. At any rate, before practicing your stroke, check that you have adjusted your bike to fit your body."
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"It would be a good idea to follow a specific pedal technique, aiming to round your stroke and start bouncing.",
"You could try relevant exercises for your pedal stroke. To this end, you could get started on a stationary bike.",
"You might want to use clipless pedals to push and pull with the same rhythm and force.",
"A fixed gear bike could be useful while you train.",
"You could experiment with higher gears while trying to maintain a steady cadence. It is possible to use a cadence monitor to better track your progress.",
"Before practicing your stroke, check that you have adjusted your bike to fit your body.",
"You could use rollers while training to get accustomed to riding at a high cadence evenly."
]
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"text": "The reason is historical.",
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"text": "Fixed gear bikes have been traditionally used for track racing, long after most other bikes had switched to using freewheels.",
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"text": "In the high-speed velodrome environment, it would be dangerous if the rider in front of you could brake suddenly: you would crash into them, and likely most of the group behind you would join in the fun",
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"text": "So brakes have always been banned, and aren't really needed on the track anyway.",
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"text": "But track bikes sometimes get retired to road use.",
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"text": "And as fixed gear has gotten more popular, many frame makers are building similar bikes for the road.",
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"text": "Some of them are closer to track bikes (no brakes), others might include front brakes or both front and rear.",
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"text": "You surely must mean a fixed gear bike.",
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"text": "A freewheeling bike with no brakes is going to require you to stop via crashing, some sort of flinstones-esque maneuver, or a ted shred move.",
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"text": "A fixed gear bike can be ridden marginally safely because the pedals are locked to the rear wheel in both directions, so locking up your legs can slow down the rear wheel.",
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"text": "People do that because they believe it gives them a better connection and feel with the road, a more 'zen' riding experience, and that the bike has better looks.",
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"text": "Fixed gear bikes are ridden in track racing with no brakes, and so the track bike origin is part of why people ride them on the street with no brakes.",
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"text": "There are still many people who have brakes on fixed gear bikes.",
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"text": "I have a fixed gear, but I have brakes on it because I prefer to stop quickly and safely. People that ride coasting bikes with no brakes are insane.",
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"text": "Lastly, this excludes coaster braked bikes, which have a brake built in the hub, common on bikes for small children.",
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"text": "A track bike has no brakes because braking would cause a pile up.",
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"text": "When a fixie on the road has no brakes it is because someone is being macho.",
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"text": "They will insist they can stop just as quickly or they can always see the road and path ahead.",
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"text": "The former being easily disproven and the latter generally being optimistic.",
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"text": "There seems to be a fair overlap with the same crowd that shuns helmets in traffic.",
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"text": "I ride a fixie with two brakes (rear rarely used).",
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"text": "The bike store near me sells fixed gear bikes set up for both track (no brakes, swept handlebars so as not to catch) and for road (with brakes and regular handlebars).",
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"text": "My fixed gear bike has brakes.",
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"text": "And I wear a helmet when riding it.",
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"text": "And I don't listen to my iPod while on the bike.",
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"text": "I'm the new non-conformist.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Why spoil the clean look of a lumberjack shirt, rolled up jeans and espadrilles with hideous cabling, calipers and pads?",
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"text": "I'm not sure about that assumption, while you can ride a fixed without brakes and use solely pedal pressure, I wouldn't want to rely on it on the road.",
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"text": "Track bikes don't have brakes and historically fixies came from the track.",
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"text": "My fixed has both front and rear (although I don't use the rear much as it chews through pads) and while I can brake reasonably well with just the pedals, through in the front brake too",
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"text": "and I can stop on a sixpence.",
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"text": "Of course, in the UK to be strictly road-legal you must have at least one brake.",
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"question": "It seems to be assumed you will not have any brakes on a fixed gear bike, why?",
"title": "Why don’t fixed gear bikes have brakes?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><fixed-gear>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2002",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian"
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[
"Track bikes don't have brakes and historically fixies came from the track. They have become more and more popular and are now made for the road. Their track origin is part of the reason why people ride them on the road with no brakes. When a fixie on the road has no brakes it is because someone is being macho. ",
"Historically, fixed gear bikes are used in track racing, where breaks are unnecessary and could in fact create a pile-up crash. Retired track bikes, or bikes inspired from this design have followed the same tradition. Regardless, fixed gear bikes are often a stylistic choice, as they arguably give a better look to the bike and driver alike, and allow for a more natural riding experience."
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"Historically, fixed gear bikes are used in track racing, where breaks are unnecessary and could in fact create a pile-up crash. Retired track bikes, or bikes inspired from this design have followed the same tradition.",
"Fixed gear bikes are often a stylistic choice, as they arguably give a better look to the bike and driver alike, and allow for a more natural riding experience."
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"sents": [
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"text": "I go through 3 different types of shoes as the seasons change: Hot (80F+): sandals Variable (30-80F):",
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"text": "indoor soccer shoes (eg adidas sambas) Cold (30F-): light hiking boots/trail running shoes For cold weather, you not only need to be comfortable while pedaling on your bike, but also confident off your bike.",
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"text": "Lightweight hiking boots, with windproofing, waterproofing, and breathable layers, not only keep your feet happy while pealing but also let you feel like a mountain goat when you put your foot down in the slush at a stop light, or dismount on top of ice, or have to portage down wet stairs.",
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"text": "Trail running shoes with these attributes are also a great choice if you want something even lighter and without the additional ankle support.",
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"text": "As others mention, wool/smartwool socks and switching to platform/toe clip/half-clips on your pedals are both good changes in addition to changing up your footwear.",
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"text": "My winter setup is smartwool socks, size 13 light hiking boots from North Face and Velo Orange half-clips.",
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"text": "In the winter I wear neoprene overshoes/galoshes.",
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"text": "(Some kind of socks on the outside of my shoes): These are not intended for walking.",
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"text": "They wear very much, and the nose slides up, even after a few steps.",
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"text": "The bottom is open, so you can use your SPD or other clickless pedals.",
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"text": "But while cycling they keep your foot dry and warm.",
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"text": "And they protect your shoes from dirt and mud.",
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"text": "In the autumn and winter, I always wear them for \"sport cycling\" (mtb, road).",
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"text": "I wished they were around when used to cycle to school (20 km through open terrain).",
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"text": "I haven't tried it myself, but according to the quite informative ICEBIKE website , sandals with layers of socks, including breathable waterproof ones, works quite well.",
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"text": "There are a number of cyclists, not always in the coldest of climates, but plenty chilly never the less, that swear by SPD Sandals, either from Shimano, or those pictured at right from Lake.",
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"text": "What's this, you say, are they Daft?",
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"text": "Not at all.",
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"text": "Sandals adopt quickly to the addition of another layer of socks, Gore-Tex Oversocks, or neoprene booties.",
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"text": "When out in the cold wet, you won't have wet shoes, as no water accumulates, it all runs off.",
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"text": "Personally, I just wear boots, and use toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots.",
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"text": "I have done the sandals and socks through the winter, living in Minnesota.",
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"text": "I usually would wear 3 layers of wool socks.",
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"text": "When it was wet, I'd put a plastic bag between the outermost sock and the next one in.",
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"text": "It worked very well and my feet were never cold.",
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"text": "There are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime though.",
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"text": "You sure do look kinda funny when you do that though.",
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"text": "I've got some \"toe warmer\" type things that slip over the front of my cycling shoes.",
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"text": "Has an opening in them to go around the clipping mechanism.",
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"text": "Works surprisingly well.",
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"text": "I go cycling in the snow with them, but have not gone out in days colder than upper 20's (F).",
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"text": "Living here in Southern California doesn't make me the best judge of \"wet and cold\" cycling gear, but I have had a few experiences in heavy downpours.",
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"text": "Being low on a budget, I find that it's often easy enough to slip a plastic bag over my socks and then lacing up my shoes, but there is a serious lack of style there, not to mention that your feet can't breath.",
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"text": "I have found a better alternative to keeping my feet dry regardless of what shoes I happen to wear, but it requires a little bit of work.",
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"text": "I happen to be lucky enough to own one of those wooden shoe inserts that help retain the shoes' shape.",
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"text": "Anyhow, through layering plastic bags and ironing them together, I was able to make a thicker \"fabric\" of sorts which was molded to the shape of the inside of my shoe.",
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"text": "I also made some that fit over the shoe, and it has done an incredibly good job at keeping my feet dry, on a low budget, with minimal weight increase.",
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"text": "Another solution which works quite well are neoprene socks which you can wear directly over your feet, or over a few layers of socks.",
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"text": "While they are a little pricey, it helps your feet breath and keeps the cold water out.",
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"text": "And while I have not tried it myself, I hear that shoe covers work just as nicely.",
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"text": "There are many winter foot wear options",
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"text": "so I thought I'd list a few.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/781/Teddy ",
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"text": "I've been using Lake's winter biking shoe for many years.",
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"text": "The latest model (MXZ302) is absolutely superb.",
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"text": "They fixed the main problem the shoe had which was the escape of heat through the cleat.",
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"text": "Now with the latest MXZ302, two inner wool sock layers, and an external booty (of any brand)",
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"text": "I can ride in temps down to -15 (minus fifteen) celsius",
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"text": "(I think that's about 5 degrees farenheit) without frozen toes.",
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"text": "And I have chronic low blood pressure which causes my feet and fingers to go numb easily.",
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"text": "Now, if I could only fix the frozen finger issue...",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2510/John Fitzpatrick",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In the winter I use Shimano MT60 MTB shoes - really comfy, gore-tex, warm and you can run cross-country in them with a bike on your shoulder.",
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"text": "They were fine down to -20 Centigrade last winter.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2077/Rory Alsop",
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}
] | {
"question": "I used Shimano cycling sandals during the summer months here in the Chicago, Illinois area. I'm wondering if I can use these during the cold winter months also or if different shoes are required. In favor of continuing to use the sandals, I could add SealSkinz and/or wool sock layers as the sandals are expandable. Other than looking strange in the winter, are there problems with doing this? What other winter cycling footwear should be considered?",
"title": "Sandals in the winter? Other winter footwear options?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<clothes><winter><shoes>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2014",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/718/Tim Butterfield"
} | 25_26 | [
[
"Suitable footwear for cycling in winter is quite varied. Ordinary boots with toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots are good. Lightweight hiking boots, winter biking shoes, Shimano shoes, trail running shoes are all possible solutions. If you wish to wear sandals, pair them with wool socks and clips on the pedals. Another option is to cover the entire shoe with neoprene socks. However, there are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime.",
"A good solution would be to wear boots, ideally windproof, waterproof, and breathable. You could customize them with toe clips or bare platforms. You could wear a number of biking shoes, such as Lake's and the Shimano MT60 MTB, or running shoes if you prefer a lighter construction. Moreover, you could use alternative methods to keep your feet dry and warm, such as toe warmers and handmade constructions out of plastic bags and wooden soles. Finally, specialized options for sandals include wool, smartwool and neoprene socks, and using platform or clips for warmth and insulation purposes."
]
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[
"A good solution would be to wear boots, ideally windproof, waterproof, and breathable. You could customize them with toe clips or bare platforms.",
"There are a number of biking shoes available, such as Lake's cycling shoes, or the Shimano MT60 MTB shoes.",
"You could use running shoes if you prefer a lighter construction.",
"Specialized options for sandals include wool, smartwool and neoprene socks, and using platform or clips for warmth and insulation purposes.",
"You could use alternative methods to keep your feet dry and warm, such as toe warmers and handmade constructions out of plastic bags and wooden soles."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I dunno about upcoming innovations, but I reject the idea that nothing much has changed in the last 25 years.",
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"text": "Bike lights have improved enormously.",
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"text": "I started cycling with the big EverReady-style lights that took two enormous D cells and gave only a few hours of rather weak light (that is, if the bulb didn't fail).",
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"text": "If you wanted to ride for moderate distances in the dark then you had to use a dynamo that dragged like a 30kph headwind while you were moving and went out as soon as you stopped.",
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"text": "Now my rear LED light lasts all winter on two AAAs, and my high-power front LED is good enough to ride all night on dark country lanes on four AAs.",
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"text": "Dynamos have improved too, with hub dynamos and standlights the norm.",
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"text": "GPS has made a big difference to navigation.",
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],
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},
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"text": "No more staring at maps in the dark to figure out where on earth you are and why that junction that you should have reached 5km ago has stubbornly failed to show up yet.",
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"text": "Online mapping makes planning bike rides much easier: a route-planning task that used to involve covering your floor with maps and marker pens can be done in a few minutes on your computer.",
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"text": "And you can check out the awkward junctions in Google StreetView so you won't get lost.",
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"text": "Mechanically, the advantage of the upright bike is its simplicity, ease of repair, and standard parts.",
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"text": "There can be tinkering around the edges: better materials, cheaper parts, slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers).",
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "There's nothing much that needs doing to improve the machine.",
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"text": "What we can improve is the way we ride.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/756/Gareth Rees",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Folding bikes are getting better and there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system.",
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"text": "Low maintenance is important for a lot of people, so better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes are important to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires.",
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"text": "It must be possible to come up with better locking/tracking systems.",
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"text": "There have been lots of advances in practical light systems over the last few years, this will continue.",
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"text": "However all the above must be cheap enough that they come as standard on a “cheap” bike brought from the local supermarket; otherwise they don’t have any effect in the “real world”.",
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"text": "I see the biggest need for innovations being aimed at people who see a bike as a transport solution, rather then an object to worship.",
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"text": "However most innovations are created by and for people that love bikes.",
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"text": "(My wife can own and drive a car, while knowing nothing about how a car works; she just has to book it into the garage once a year when they send her a reminder [or a \"error\" light comes on].",
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"text": "How can bike be made as easy to use and own?)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/132/Ian",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Electricity Electric gadgets on bikes (while available now) will become mainstream.",
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"text": "Examples Electrical bikes , not the ones your grandmother uses to go shopping, but electrical race- and mountainbikes.",
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"text": "Implemented using invisible and low weight devices like the Gruber Assist .",
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"text": "You could also think about electronic shifters like the Dura Ace di2 .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I think current trends in simpler bikes with cleaner lines might help popularize (thus bringing the price down) wide-range internal gear hubs like the Rohloff hub .",
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"text": "On my wish list would be more focus on comfort (consider the timelessness of the Brooks saddle combined with newer materials/design) and reliability (could we get puncture-resistant tires that don't have so much rolling resistance please?).",
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"text": "Too much focus is currently on weight and aerodynamics -- which makes sense given that pro racing typically drives innovation, but doesn't help the average cyclist much.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There is a drive shaft bike available.",
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"text": "Heck there is even a Wikipedia entry on it.",
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"text": "I have never tried riding one.",
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"text": "But the thing about bicycles is they are pretty darn good, as currently designed.",
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"text": "Brake innovations have come and gone (things like disc brakes on MTB's).",
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"text": "I am sure there are more.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
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"text": "Belt-drive is on the rise.",
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"text": "Supposedly much quieter than a chain, and no lube...",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/638/alesplin",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've had the same niggling feeling myself, yes our bike lights are better than 20 years ago and the frame is a 'nicer' type of aluminium but that's not much.",
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"text": "A cross over vehicle that takes the best from the HPV world and the best from the cycling world would rock.",
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"text": "The role of the UCI in restricting aerodynamic innovation is probably to blame.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/791/MrTelly",
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"text": "What I really fear is strong-hybrid bikes.",
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"text": "Not hybrid as in a normal bike, but an electric bike with pedals, but the pedals are only connected to a generator.",
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"text": "Pedal when you want, how much you like.",
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"text": "It doesn't matter so long as you have enough juice left.",
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"text": "That's going to change the feel of cycling much more than current electric bikes do.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/128/Tom Hawtin - tackline",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Many improvements already exist: everything in the hubs (dynamos, brakes, gears) chainless transmisison puncture-free tires recumbent bikes Moreover, many equipments are available today that didn't exist 25 years ago, especially for carrying things and people.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/183/mouviciel",
"score": 1
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] | {
"question": "The (road) bike I bought 25 years ago is very similar to my current bike. (The derailleur on my new bike adjusts exactly the same way). The materials of my current bike are vastly different than the old one. Other than that it's all the same. What are upcoming bicycle innovations, and if so what? Considering the comments Last week cruising through a bike shop, I saw a carbon fiber chain. Have not seen any sort of radical shifting system lately.",
"title": "Bicycle innovations in the pipeline?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<technology>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2064",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 25_27 | [
[
"Possible future innovations in biking could include better materials, cheaper parts and slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers). Moreover, as low maintenance is important for a lot of people, we could see better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes in an attempt to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires. Furthermore, fFolding bikes are getting better although there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system. Hopefully, there will be better locking/tracking systems. Bikes may be seen with more electric gadget and these will become mainstream. Finally, there is a drive shaft bike available. ",
"There can be improvements on existing bike technology, with particular focus on quality materials, less cost and functional design. This works towards introducing a wider audience to cycling. Moreover, we are expecting innovations in the field of folding bikes. Another area for improvement is locking and tracking technologies. In this context, the use of electric gadgets will become commonplace for future cyclists. Finally, shaft-driven and belt-driven bicycles are emerging."
]
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"There can be improvements on existing bike technology, with particular focus on quality materials, less cost and functional design. This works towards introducing a wider audience to cycling.",
"We are expecting innovations in the field of folding bikes.",
"An area for improvement is locking and tracking technologies. In this context, the use of electric gadgets will become commonplace for future cyclists.",
"Shaft-driven and belt-driven bicycles are emerging."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There is an interesting Q&A on independent.co.uk (though it dates from 1995) talking about bananas and tennis...",
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"text": "Q. Witnessing players at Wimbledon",
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"text": "chomping their way through pounds of",
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"text": "bananas between games prompts the question: who began this sporting food fad and are there sound nutritional reasons for the players' preference for bananas to other fruit or food.",
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"text": "In what other sports (leaving aside lunch and tea breaks in cricket) do the participants eat during the course of play? A.",
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"text": "The sporting fad for bananas was started by sports nutritionists such as myself.",
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"text": "The banana is rich in carbohydrate - an important source of energy for athletes and has significantly higher levels than any other fruit.",
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},
{
"text": "Also, unlike most other forms of high-carbohydrate foods, it contains very little fat but is also high in fibre.",
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"text": "The combination of fibre with the banana's three natural sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels, thus so many players at Wimbledon were seen eating bananas.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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{
"text": "Bananas are also an excellent recovery food for replacing potassium lost in sweating , something most players must have been suffering from at this year's tournament.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "-",
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],
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{
"text": "Jane Griffin, Consultant Nutritionist to the British Olympic Association, London SW17 Sounds like it would be good for long bike rides as well.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/417/dee-see",
"score": 30
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Real food like bananas are better than processed food any day.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Don't ditch old school foods.",
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{
"text": "Remember when they said that margarine was better for you than butter?",
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"text": "30 years later, they find out trans-fats are bad.",
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"text": "The banana stands the test of time.",
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],
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{
"text": "Gel packs and bars won't.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Keep at it brother!",
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],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/790/Jeshizaemon",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "They are easier to carry than coconuts (although two of you could carry one on a line)",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/427/mgb",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'm not a nutrition expert, but I swear by bananas!",
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{
"text": "I have always had issues with cramps and bonking on long rides (over 50 miles).",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "I don't train a ton because I have young children, but I like doing the Palm Springs Century each year.",
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{
"text": "The way to prepare for this for me is to ride my usual 20 mile loop around town first twice, then 3 times, and yesterday I did 4 laps for a total of 80 miles.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "I had 4 bananas, one each hour, along with 2 large water bottles and felt great!",
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],
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{
"text": "I have tried the GU Packs, sports drinks, sugary chomp bites, and none of them seemed to work.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "From now on, it's just electrolyte water from Trader Joe's and good old fashioned bananas!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5946/Dutch Cyclist",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In addition to the points made in other answers, I think bananas are good because you can stuff one down in no time at all.",
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"text": "Like, less than ten seconds.",
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{
"text": "I think that's handy when you're on the bike.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14375/BSO rider",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I took a banana on a race a couple months ago.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "It went from nicely firm and yellow to bruised, squishy and messy in a couple hours.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I binned it in the end.",
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{
"text": "Plus the ratio of packaging to content is pretty high, unless you eat the skin or carry it peeled.",
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1
],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "Possible replacements - dried banana chips may work.",
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0
],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "I tend to buy three things from supermarket bulk bins, a chocolate or carob bite, a yoghourt based bite, and something mostly nut or grain based.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Don't forget your water though!",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "No one addressed the question of how long does it take for the banana to break down and work.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "It can not be immediate.",
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{
"text": "I think two hours might be too long, but if the banana needs say 1.5 hours, you will need to eat something about one into your ride max before eating the banana for it to work 2.5 hours down the road.",
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{
"text": "To suggest gel and cliff bars don't work is also not right.",
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"text": "But you need the most important thing: water or Gatorade/water mix with the gels cliffs or the banana.",
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},
{
"text": "You need 80 grams of carbs per hour on a long ride, one banana wont cut it.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I like bananas but the fact that half the volume you throw away (the peel) makes this only a partial solution in my opinion.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40711/richard brown",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I am very much an old school cyclist and I always carry a banana with me when I go on rides longer than an hour. In the past I have found them ideal - they easily fit in my jersey pockets, the wrapping is biodegradable (if I accidentally drop it when riding), high source of potassium to stop muscle cramp. Should I change my ways and ditch the bended yellow pill for a more modern fare?",
"title": "Are bananas still a good food to carry when cycling?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<nutrition>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2145",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/106/Anthony K"
} | 25_28 | [
[
"The combination of fibre with the banana's three natural sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels, thus so many players at Wimbledon were seen eating bananas. Some people prefer bananas as they believe real food like bananas is better than processed food any day. Other, however, feel there is a lot of waste with a banan and thus think they are only a partial solution.",
"Most people agree that the fibre and natural sugars found in bananas make them a good option, as they replenish waning energy and potassium levels. This is verified by personal experiences. The argument for natural food also adds to the point. However, you might want to consider that bananas are easily damaged, while half their volume consists of their peel."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
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4
] | [
[
"Most people agree that the fibre and natural sugars found in bananas make them a good option, as they replenish waning energy and potassium levels. This is verified by personal experiences. The argument for natural food also adds to the point.",
"You might want to consider that bananas are easily damaged, while half their volume consists of their peel."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Bedding in brakes removes any glaze from your new pads, and any contamination from your disc rotors.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "It also transfers material from the pads onto the rotors, which helps them work together.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "It's essential to get the optimum performance from your brakes when you change pads.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Follow these steps:",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Clean your rotors - you don't want them to transfer any grease andgrime to your new pads.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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{
"text": "You can buy dedicated brake cleaner.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "Fit the new pads and find a place where you can build up a bit of speed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A hill is helpful for this.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Build up some speed and then brake to a gradual halt.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Repeat a few times.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "That's probably all you need to do.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "However some people, myself included, like to pour water over the hot brakes.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I'm not sure this actually improves anything but",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "even if it doesn't it sizzles and steams, which is pretty cool",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/127/Martynnw",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The reason you need to bed in your pads is so that they contact the disc rotor evenly.",
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},
{
"text": "Even if you think you've set them up perfectly, the rotor and the pad are very hard and when you apply the brakes initially there is not going to be completely even contact between pad and rotor.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "By bedding them in, you're effectively wearing away the top layer of the disc rotor so you get completely even contact.",
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},
{
"text": "To do this you simply need to brake hard, generating heat and wear.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I find sprinting down the road and put the front brakes on hard, whilst keeping my weight well back to prevent an embarrassing endo, works well.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "For the rear I again sprint off but then apply it steadily and firmly, also with weight well back and just enough pressure to brake hard without skidding.",
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1
],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It helps if you're on a really grippy surface like tarmac.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/820/Chris Betterton",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Bedding in is a term applied to most metallic braking devices.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Pads and rotors/discs wear at different rates and can end up slightly grooved depending on the natural variations in the pad/disc materials. when replacing one or the other or both items you need to bed them in to ensure that both surfaces conform to each other.",
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},
{
"text": "The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Too light pressure",
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],
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},
{
"text": "and you could \"glaze\" the pad",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "- i.e. turn it too hard and polished to effectively brake, too hard and you could damage the rotor or pad by scoring its surface or worse.",
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/519/Mauro",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The reason for bedding them in is to get the proper performance and lifetime out of them that they were designed for.",
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},
{
"text": "The process should be specified by the manufacturer.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "It will vary based on the pad's materials/design.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/349/Brian Knoblauch",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The how has been described already: repeated brakes to near stop from some speed to put heat into pads.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "Try to avoid holding the brake after you've come to a full stop to avoid uneven transfer of pad material.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "I think the why hasn't been fully covered yet, aside from the fact bedding in transfers some pad material to the rotors/discs.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "But the reason this is important is that most of the stopping power comes from adhesion rather than friction.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Brand new pads have only friction between hard pad and steel rotor.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Friction alone - as you'll know if you've ridden on new pads - doesn't slow you very effectively.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Adhesive friction between the pads and rotor, particularly with sintered pads, is much more powerful.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Imagine the pad sticking like glue to the pad material on the rotor.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As the rotor passes through the pads it smears material from the pads, rather than grinding the rotor down.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Adhesive friction is also used in tyre technology, particularly for performance tyres.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I have a picture from a recent track day where I was able to stick a screwdriver to the side of the tyre on my motorbike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The tyres were literally sticky to the touch when they hit their operating temperature.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The same thing happens to your brake pads when they hit operating temperature.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So when bedding in you're just getting them hot enough to smear a coating on the rotor, ready for you to take advantage of adhesive friction the next time you get them to operating temperature.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45726/Owen",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, you will need to do a series of brake applications to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "What your essentially doing here is cooking your pad so that the rotor will have pad material transferred to it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, your also making sure the pad is mature enough to be used for those big hills.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you want to know what a rotor looks like when you do this wrong, then check this car website out: http://www.cquence.net/blog/brake_pads_and_install_guidelines/",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3570/Terry",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Why should I bed in my disc brake pads and what's the best way to do it?",
"title": "Why/How should I bed in disc brake pads?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<disc-brake>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2193",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/127/Martynnw"
} | 25_29 | [
[
"The process Ffor breaking in brake pads should be specified by the manufacturer. It will vary based on the pad's materials/design. The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly. Another recommendation is to repeated apply the brakes to near stop from some speed to put heat into pads. A series of brake applications is required to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk. ",
"You should start with cleaning your rotors with brake cleaner to avoid contaminating your new pads. After fitting the pads, try accelerating and breaking repeatedly, to generate heat and coat the brake rotor or disk evenly. Most agree that the break should be firm and steady, as opposed to hard. Keeping your weight back might help. Regardless, it would be a good idea to advise the manufacturer's instructions, as the process may be different in some designs."
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"You should start with cleaning your rotors with brake cleaner to avoid contaminating your new pads.",
"After fitting the pads, try accelerating and breaking repeatedly, to generate heat and coat the brake rotor or disk evenly. Most agree that the break should be firm and steady, as opposed to hard. Keeping your weight back might help.",
"It would be a good idea to advise the manufacturer's instructions, as the process may be different in some designs."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I should imagine you should be looking for some reflective gloves.",
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"text": "Or even some glo glovesCheck these out as an example ...",
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"text": "http://lifehacker.com/395978/glo-gloves-reflective-cycling-gear",
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"text": "Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Putting reflective bands on your sleeves can help make your movements visible.",
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"text": "They don't need to be attached permanently: a second pair of trouser clips works very well when strapped around your cuffs, or possibly the cuffs of your gloves if you're wearing big winter gloves.",
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"text": "Something like Ron Hill snap bands (there are lots of equivalent products with different names)",
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"text": "are very visible, take up next to no space when you're off the bike, don't encumber your wrists or get uncomfortable, and take only a few seconds to put on when you set off.",
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"text": "You might even find your local road safety organization gives away bands like these at events, so they don't have to cost anything.",
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"text": "Wearing reflective (or at least brightly coloured) gloves is also pretty good.",
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"text": "Other than that it's all about being extremely cautious.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/417/dee-see",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Similar to the LED gloves, you can always make a signaling jacket .",
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"text": "I bet I know a few of our friends that would be totally down helping with that ;)",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/563/zigdon",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I did a project to add electronic Arduino turn signals, brake lights, speedometer, and odometer to my bike.",
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"text": "You can check out my project here: http://jdeboi.com/pimpmybike/",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have a pair of these from Sierra Trading Post: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/north-american-trading-soft-deerskin-gloves-reflective-strip-for-men-and-women~p~4617m/",
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"text": "The reflective strip is wide and works as advertised.",
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"text": "If you're biking in cold weather (I'm a Sconnie, so \"cold\" to me is \"25F or below\"), I recommend glove liners and/or wristbands; these gloves are a bit drafty.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "This problem is easily solved.",
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"text": "Just buy some pants cuff protectors ( the kind that keep you pant leg from getting into the chain ), get the ones that have reflective material sewn on them and you can just use these around your arm at night.",
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"text": "Any light from a cars headlights in either diredction should light up the reflecting material.",
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"text": "Probably cost less than $5 if you want a pair.",
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"text": "Most of them are either velcro or elastic for a custom fit.",
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"text": "They can be used in all seasons, with a jacket or bare arms.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I wear cheap white cotton gardening gloves on my hands, while biking - they started white and are now a light grey from oil and exhaust fumes.",
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"text": "Only cost $2 at the local hardware store.",
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"text": "The other thing is to look for full arm length high-vis jackets or overvests with reflective piping on the arm.",
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"text": "Orange is considered better than grellow for night-time visibility.",
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"text": "And ride like they haven't seen you, because they probably haven't.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are also some (I think experimental) lights with turn signals for bikes.",
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"text": "For example, I once saw an ad for these Lights: http://www.bicygnals.com/indicators.php A wide front and rear light, both are wirelessly connected together, with yellow lights at the side.",
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{
"text": "One minus point",
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],
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{
"text": "I see for the front light",
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"text": "is that it might take up all space on your cockpit, but it seems a pretty reasonable but a little high effort way to go.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1494/Paul Weber",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Visijax make a high-visibility cycling jacket that also includes battery-powered indicators.",
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"text": "It may be the way to go, at least in winter, if you don't mind looking like a bit of a prat. http://visijax.com/",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4908/GordonM",
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] | {
"question": "My bike and I are fairly visible at night--white light in front, red light in the back, bright yellow fenders, reflective tabs and a light on my helmet. I use hand signals to alert motorists when I'm turning... but I don't think they can see my hands in the dark. Is there anything different I should do when I'm signalling a turn in an unlit place?",
"title": "How can I be visible in the dark when I'm signalling a turn?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><commuter><traffic><visibility><signals>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2197",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/710/DC_CARR"
} | 25_30 | [
[
"Making sure you are visible when making a turn at night is important. A number of options exist to achieve the goal. One would be a good pair of reflective gloves, or failing that brightly colored gloves. Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful. To make your movements visible, you can put reflective bands on your sleeves, to do this you can buy some pants cuff protectors and wear these around your arm at night.",
"The best solution is attaching some reflective material, preferably orange, on your gloves, cuffs or sleeves. This could be sewn on permanently or strapped. Alternatively, there is ready-made reflecting clothing you could use. You might also want to look into turn signals for bicycles. In any case, you should be very careful when your are driving at night."
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"The best solution is attaching some reflective material, preferably orange, on your gloves, cuffs or sleeves. This could be sewn on permanently or strapped. Alternatively, there is ready-made reflecting clothing you could use.",
"In any case, you should be very careful when your are driving at night.",
"You might want to look into turn signals for bicycles."
]
] |
[
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"sents": [
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"text": "No, usually expensive helmets are lighter and more comfortable because have more ventilation.",
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"text": "So, if you plan to ride for long hours it's better to buy the more expensive helmet that you can afford, otherwise - for short rides - a cheap helmet will do the job.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute did a impact test of two sets of helmets.",
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"text": "One of them cheap (US$20.00)",
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"text": "the other expensive (US$200.00).",
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"text": "The results are clear: there's no difference.",
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"text": "Buy from a reputable brand.",
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"text": "Just check:",
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"text": "If it has the U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION (CPSC) label If it is confortable in your head (you'll use it more) BTW, they give nice and reasonable tips :",
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"text": "\"Beware of gimmicks.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You want a smoothly rounded outer shell, with no sharp ribs or snag points.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Excessive vents mean less foam contacting your head, which could concentrate force on one point.",
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"text": "\"Aero\" helmets are not noticeably faster, and in a crash the \"tail\" could snag or knock the helmet aside.",
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"text": "Skinny straps are less comfortable.",
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"text": "Dark helmets are hard for motorists to see.",
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"text": "Rigid visors can snag or shatter in a fall.",
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},
{
"text": "Helmet standards do not address these problems--it's up to you!\"",
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"text": "Their site is really informative.",
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"text": "It's worth to spend half an hour browsing it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5639/neves",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There is actually some misinformation here.",
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"text": "It is true that both cheap and expensive helmets must conform with CE-certifications and EU-regulations etc.",
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"text": "but the Swedish insurance company Folksam did a more comprehensive test of bicycle helmets.",
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"text": "While the best helmet was a relatively cheap one (if you don't consider the airbag helmet), there was a large difference between the amount of protection they each offered.",
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"text": "Here is a link to the test, but unfortunately it is in Swedish.",
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"text": "Google translate was not to keen to parse the link either.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4644/user1049697",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Trust.",
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"text": "Of course the manufacturers trade on that, but would you trust a helmet that cost a meagre amount?",
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"text": "The more expensive helmets are generally sculpted and designed to have more ventilation, be lighter, be more adjustable, be more comfortable, but ultimately, do you trust them to do the job.",
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"text": "I wear a helmet because when I race I have to and when I commute I'm under personal pressure to wear one.",
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"text": "(To be fair I did recently have a crash and my forehead would have looked worse",
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"text": "had I not been wearing one",
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"text": "- it at least protected me from a longer cut.)",
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"text": "Personally I spent more money because I wanted light and comfortable, but I also figure that something that costs the same as a big lunch cannot have been designed, tested and built properly.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "From the same manufacturer (or similar reputable) the safety is the same.",
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{
"text": "This years model costs more, mostly to make up for selling",
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},
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"text": "last years model at half",
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},
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"text": "price!The top end ranges do have better ventilation, more comfortable or more adjustable padding and straps and have a logo on the box that says they were endorsed by this years Tour de France winner (unless they have just been caught taking drugs)",
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"text": "Personally I buy last year's model from a reputable maker when the LBS has them on sale.",
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"text": "Since helmets need to be replaced every few years (the plastic degrades)",
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"text": "I don't worry about how long a better quality helmet will last.",
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"text": "For me the padding and straps become horribly degraded from sweat long before the impact foam chemically degrades.",
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"text": "I also buy two helmets for summer use and alternate them so they at least have a chance to dry out.",
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"text": "Older ones get relegated to winter use with the padding removed when I wear a hat.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/427/mgb",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As long as it meets EU/US minimums, price does not make much of a difference safety-wise; a cheap helmet will do a fine job of protecting you: https://helmets.org/testbycost.htm",
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"text": "More money gives better ventilation, aerodynamics and comfort but you should question whether a shaped bit of plastic foam can justify a £200 price-tag or if you're just paying for the brand.",
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] | {
"question": "Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection?",
"title": "What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<helmets><frugal>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2207",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/792/Peanut"
} | 25_31 | [
[
"The results are clear: there's no difference. As long as it meets EU/US minimums, price does not make much of a difference safety-wise; a cheap helmet will do a fine job of protecting you: https://helmets.org/testbycost.htm. More expensive helmets may be more comfortable and lighter with more ventilation. However, cheaper, reputable helmets are fine.",
"It is highly subjective. Some people argue that expensive helmets provide better protection, while their design is lighter and more comfortable because they are better ventilated. Others believe that if a regular helmet conforms to EU/US standards and is produced by a reputable manufacturer, it is not very different from an expensive brand. You might want to consider your needs. Long rides that require comfort may justify the added price, otherwise a regular helmet could suffice."
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"Some people argue that expensive helmets provide better protection, while their design is lighter and more comfortable because they are better ventilated.",
"If a regular helmet conforms to EU/US standards and is produced by a reputable manufacturer, it is not very different from an expensive brand.",
"You might want to consider your needs. Long rides that require comfort may justify the added price, otherwise a regular helmet could suffice."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Bananas and as I need at least 15 characters, don't forget to eat bananas during your ride as well.",
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"text": "Chris's answer is good if you are planning for some serious training/ride.",
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"text": "IMHO, if you ride just a few Kms there's not even need for a particular diet, as long as it's mixed and well balanced.",
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"text": "I stick to such a regular diet for rides of 50 Km or less, otherwise some tuning (as described by Chris) is needed.",
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"text": "That depends on the type of ride, but generally something not too heavy with plenty of complex carbs is good before a long ride.",
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"text": "You want something that is going to release plenty of energy over the course of the ride.",
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"text": "Porridge, maybe with yogurt and stewed fruit, works really well for me.",
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"text": "After a ride, there's a 15 minute recovery window where you want to replace those carbs and also get some protein, so your body can replenish its energy reserves and rebuild muscle mass.",
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"text": "There are specialist recovery drinks that do this, but to be honest a milkshake made with semi or skimmed milk and not too much sugar is ideal.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/820/Chris Betterton",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I just consider the nature of the ride I plan to do.",
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"text": "And think of the time I'll be on the bike and the intensity of the ride.",
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"text": "A short commute, errand or casual ride.",
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"text": "Probably nothing more is needed other than normal balanced meals with a snack (energy bar, banana, fig bar, or whatever you prefer) in your pocket.",
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"text": "A long commute/errand or moderate fitness ride.",
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"text": "Preferably a meal 1 - 2 hours before the ride (60% Carbs, 20% Protein, 20% Fat); then a high carb snack 30 minutes before the workout (granola bar, banana, etc); after the ride a light meal/snack with a 4:1 carb/protein ratio within 2 hours.",
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"text": "High intensity fitness training/fitness rides such as interval training.",
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"text": "A meal and snack, as above, 1 - 2 hours and 30 minutes before; an energy/electrolyte drink during the workout; and a recovery meal/snack as above.",
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"text": "Very long rides where you'll be on the bike for several hours, such as centuries.",
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"text": "Same as the previous.",
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"text": "However during the ride, it pays to eat and hydrate throughout.",
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"text": "I find that I'm eating the equivalent of a high carb energy bar about every hour.",
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"text": "This is a rough answer as there are entire books on the subject of exercise nutrition.",
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"text": "A couple that I've found useful are by Chris Carmichael .",
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"text": "One is Food for Fitness and another is",
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"text": "The Time Crunched Cyclist .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The only thing to 'make sure' to eat is carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt, and water, in any form.",
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"text": "Here are some of my favorite snacks to eat while cycling-",
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"text": "as opposed to before/after; some make the list because they are ubiquitous at convenience stores (in order of quantity that I have consumed) misc 'bar' peanut butter sandwich (banana and honey optional) sandwich bananas equal parts soda:water (optimum osmotic pressure for sugar uptake as recommended by Greg Lemond, first line of defense when a bonk is coming on) peanuts pop-tarts Before/after long rides: pancakes with peanut butter oatmeal with fruits and nuts big bowl of cereal eggs",
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"text": "\"a rare steak is a good breakfast for what lies ahead\" \"A Sunday in Hell\" Roger de Vlaeminck eating a pre-race meal at 15:09 (make sure to cut small pieces and chew well!)",
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"text": "protein shake burrito shwarma",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/839/David LeBauer",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I love the honey stinger waffles.",
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"text": "It is like a 3-inch waffle with honey in the middle.",
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"text": "It is all natural, very tasty and fits very nicely into the seat bag or back pocket.",
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"text": "Only drawbacks are that they can be challenging at the moment to get into.",
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"text": "There is supposed to be new packaging this year (2011).",
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"text": "There also is no protein but on the ride itself that should not be a problem.",
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}
] | {
"question": "What should a bicyclist make sure to eat before and after riding a bike?",
"title": "What should one eat while cycling?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<nutrition>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2225",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/824/Lea Aharonovitch"
} | 25_32 | [
[
"Most cyclists do not require a special diet. It is important to have enough carbohydrates and to have a banana or energy bar with you during the ride, and water , of course. After a long ride, it is important to replensh protein and carbohydrate. ",
"Opinions on this subject vary. Some people recommend specific food types, such as fruit or sweets, while others propose consuming the calories corresponding roughly to a high carb energy bar. It is important to follow a mixed and balanced diet, including carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt and water. You might also want to consider the type of ride. Short commutes require regular balanced meals. For long distances, it is recommended that you plan your meal carefully some hours before starting, hydrate frequently and have a snack after the ride. You should replenish your energy with carbs, protein and recovery drinks, but not eat too heavy. "
]
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"Some people recommend specific food types, such as fruit or sweets.",
"It is important to follow a mixed and balanced diet, including carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt and water, especially for short distances.",
"It would be a good idea to consume the calories corresponding roughly to a high carb energy bar.",
"You might want to consider the type of ride. Short commutes require regular balanced meals. For long distances, it is recommended that you plan your meal carefully some hours before starting, hydrate frequently and have a snack after the ride. You should replenish your energy with carbs, protein and recovery drinks, but not eat too heavy. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Look on the sidewalls of your tires, and you should see a recommended pressure range.",
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"text": "If your tires are outside that range, you need more air.",
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"text": "The lower end of the pressure range is good for soft ground like dirt or gravel or snow, where you need more traction; the higher end is best for roads, and will help you avoid pinch flats .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The short answer is: it depends on the tires.",
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"text": "If the air pressure is lower, there is more contact between the ground and the tire.",
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"text": "This has the advantage of more grip (especially in rainy and/or icy conditions this can be nice), but the disadvantage of more resistance, making the cycling harder.",
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"text": "If the air pressure is higher, the advantage is making it easier, but the disadvantage is less grip.",
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"text": "In addition, if the pressure is low, the wheel can damage the tire, if the pressure is high, the ground can damage the tire.",
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"text": "In general the thin tires (such as on racing bikes) do require higher pressure then wide tires (such as on mountain bikes).",
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"text": "If you see the bottom of the wheel as cutting in to the side of the tire, then the pressure is definitely too low.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Other looking at the sidewall, here are some clues that I use: If the rim hits the edge of a pothole or uneven sidewalk when you go over it.",
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"text": "Learn the relationship between the feel at the thumb and the amount of pressure in the tire For a given tire, too low can depend on what you want out of the tire and the conditions that you expect to ride in.",
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"text": "If you find it difficult to hold your line in a turn because your tires are not firm enough (in extreme cases the tire will roll off), you should increase the pressure.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Simple answer is, they always need more air.",
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"text": "Tires leak, slowly, but they all leak.",
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"text": "If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days.",
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"text": "If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are 2 ways to determine this.",
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"text": "One is to use an air pressure gauge.",
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"text": "The other is to squeeze the tire with your fingers.",
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"text": "Like Neilfein says above, first check the inflation specs on your tires.",
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"text": "Roughly.... Mountain bike tires =",
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"text": "35 - 65 psi Commuter bike tires = 75 - 100 psi Road bike tires =",
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"text": "100 - 120 psi Ok, so here's something you can do.",
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"text": "Using a pressure gauge, pump up your tires to the max pressure.",
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"text": "Then, using your fingers, see how that feels.",
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"text": "Now, let the air out, and pump up to the min pressure, and see how that feels.",
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"text": "Also, do the same with a middle pressure.",
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"text": "Now you have a range.",
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"text": "Once you are familiar with how that pressure range feels, you can either head off for your ride or add air.",
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"text": "And of course, you can always use a gauge to check the pressure before each and every ride.",
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"text": "For casual short rides I just squeeze the tires.",
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"text": "And it works.",
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"text": "Beyond that, I get out the pump and top them off.",
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] | {
"question": "How much air is too little and you should add more for the safety and ease of your bike ride?",
"title": "How do you know when you need to add more air in the tires?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2254",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/824/Lea Aharonovitch"
} | 25_33 | [
[
"The short answer is that it depends on the tires. One option is to use an air pressure gauge, another is to feel the tires. Tires always need more air. If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days. If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride. Moreover, on the sidewalls of your tires, there is usually a recommended pressure range.",
"Depending on the tires, you could advise the manufacturer's recommended pressure range and adjust accordingly. Moreover, if the bottom of the wheel is biting into the tire, if the rim is affected on uneven road, or if you are facing difficulties in holding your line when turning, you should increase the tire pressure. It is recommended that you use a pressure gauge to reach the desired tire pressure and then squeeze the tire with your fingers to understand the feel of certain pressure levels. However, some people advise that you should add air constantly, and specifically every 2-3 days if you use your bicycle frequently."
]
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"Depending on the tires, you could advise the manufacturer's recommended pressure range and adjust accordingly.",
"You should increase the pressure in case the bottom of the wheel is biting into the tire.",
"If the rim is affected when you are driving on uneven road, the tire pressure is not high enough.",
"A solution would be to use a pressure gauge to reach the desired tire pressure and then squeeze the tire with your fingers to understand the feel of certain pressure levels.",
"If you are facing difficulties in holding your line when turning because of your tires, you should increase tire pressure.",
"It is recommended that you add air constantly, and specifically every 2-3 days if you use your bicycle frequently."
]
] |
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"sents": [
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"text": "Riding in snow depends on a bunch of factors, so you won't really ever be able to know unless you just go for it and try it out.",
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"text": "What bike/wheels you have Should be obvious.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "Mountain vs Road, 26\" vs 29\", wide vs skinny tires, etc",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Your skill level in snow",
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "The better and more comfortable you are in the snow",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "is important.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I'd say its the most important factor apart from the bike.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "While some have trouble steering in just an inches, others can handle nearly a foot or more.",
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},
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"text": "Tracks in the snow",
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},
{
"text": "You mentioned fresh snow, but I'm going to include this as part of a general answer.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "The difference between fresh snow and tracked snow is huge.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Tracked snow is vastly more difficult to bike in.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "With just a few inches of solid snow and some criss-crossing tire tracks, it can be nearly impossible to ride at any significant speed.",
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1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Consistency of snow",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Lastly, fresh powdery snow is a lot easier to go through than wet solid stuff.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "But powdery can be far worse if a hard icy surface lurks below the snow.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Bottom line: Just go out and ride through snow and see what you can handle, then ride through something a little tougher.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Best part is, the soft snow makes falling easier!",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
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"score": 20
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My experience from last winter was that I could keep moving through falling sticky snow up to about 6\" =",
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],
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},
{
"text": "15cm",
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},
{
"text": "but it took a great deal of effort,",
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},
{
"text": "even more so if your tyres end up cracking through frozen puddles under the snow.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "There were sections where I had to pedal hard just to keep moving even down some normally fast downhill sections.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "It's great fun -",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "but maybe don't stray too far from home on your first outing.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/825/Duncan McGregor",
"score": 8
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Depends on how heavy it is and what you want to do.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "For a light snow, below the hubs should be fine.",
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{
"text": "For heavier snows and slush, well, you have to worry more about losing control of the front wheel.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Fatter tires or a mountain bike are easier to ride in slush and snow.",
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1
],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "If you want to test the limits go as fast as is safe 2.use",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "a big gear keep a light touch on the handlebars only brake when going in a straight line and only use the rear brake A fixed gear is easier to control in these situations because of the direct control that you have over the rotation of the rear wheel.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/839/David LeBauer",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I agree with the other answers, but think one subtle detail is important.",
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"text": "It depends on the type of snow.",
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},
{
"text": "Eskimos have 50 words for snow?",
"label": [
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"text": "Well there really are different types.",
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"text": "Light and fluffy is easy.",
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],
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},
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"text": "Deep and heavy gets to be problematic.",
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2,
2
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},
{
"text": "There comes a point, where each forward motion is wasted as the wheel spins, while sinking down through the snow up ahead, till it hits the bottom where it can get traction.",
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},
{
"text": "That is very hard riding if it is possible at all.",
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],
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},
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"text": "I am not sure how to discuss the very different types of snow to really answer this question completely.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19/geoffc",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you are talking about riding your bike on normal streets, then this might be helpfull.",
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{
"text": "I recently got lots of experience riding on various kinds of snow.",
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"text": "Here in Germany, the bicycle paths are cleared and sometimes salt is put on them so that you have various mixtures of mud and snow.",
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"text": "I find it easiest to ride on a road where no salt is put on and where the feet of the people made the snow essentially a flat hard surface.",
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},
{
"text": "Riding on that type of snow is possible even with temperatures below 10",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Fahrenheit.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you have snow about 5 inches deep and not yet a hard surface but lots of footsteps and bike traces, then it is difficult to ride.",
"label": [
1
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],
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},
{
"text": "You bump constantly into tiny snow hills, and you will drive in snake lines or fall off.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If you have salt on the road and it is no colder than 20 Fahrenheit, then it is ok to ride in this snow-water mud.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "It get much more difficult to ride if you go below 20 Fahrenheit, then the mud freezes, even if you follow the path of other bikes.",
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1
],
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"cluster_id": [
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/882/Katharina Friedrich",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "On packed snow (IE from cars), my hybrid performs better than my mountain bike.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "The narrower tires cut through and contact solid pavement underneath.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "The bigger mountain bike tires can't cut through and end up floating on the surface.",
"label": [
0
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The effect is like hydroplaning.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "Very hard to steer, although I don't know the physics behind that.",
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}
}
] | {
"question": "I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house. So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable?",
"title": "How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><snow><off-road>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2265",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/446/Phil Hale"
} | 25_34 | [
[
"Different types of snow are easier or more difficult to ride a bike in. Fresh snow is easier, tracked snow more difficult. Fresh, powdery snow is easier than wet, solid snow. Moreover, hard ice beneath the snow makes riding difficult. Finaly, the type of bike or tires makes a difference: Fatter, mountain bike tires make riding through snow easier.",
"The answer may depend on your bicycle type, as fatter tires are better for snow. More to the point, it is important to consider the state and volume of the snow. Specifically, fresh snow is not as challenging, even though bikers should beware of icy surfaces, while deep and heavy snow can be problematic. You should also distinguish between fresh and tracked snow, which is more demanding. Finally, temperature is an important factor. Driving below 20 Fahrenheit can be dangerous, even if there is salt on the road."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
4
] | [
[
"The answer may depend on your bicycle type, as fatter tires are better for snow.",
"You should distinguish between fresh and tracked snow. The latter is more demanding, even if the snow is not deep.",
"It is important to consider the state and volume of the snow. Specifically, fresh snow is not as challenging, even though bikers should beware of icy surfaces, while deep and heavy snow can be problematic, especially when trying to maintain control of the wheel.",
"Temperature is an important factor, as driving below 20 Fahrenheit can be dangerous, even if there is salt on the road."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Protective plates?",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You mean Fenders/Mudguards ?",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I can think of 3 things that could help, other than simply bringing a change: Bigger fenders (wider, and/or go down the tire more).",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Basically, some fenders are better than others.",
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"label_summ": [
1
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "A front fender that's wider than the tire with a stay (rod) going back for support that hugs the tire fairly closely and extends down to the height of the bottom bracket is ideal.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
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},
{
"text": "A mudflap hanging from the bottom of the front fender.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This is a flap made of something flexible (rubber, leather, etc) that hangs from the bottom of the fender.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "It effectively extends the fender down even further without it being a problem if it hits something.",
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0
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{
"text": "Some fenders/mudguards come with this.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Or you can add one.",
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},
{
"text": "Protective pants over your regular pants.",
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1
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"label_summ": [
1
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"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "I have a pair of yellow rain pants that I put on over my regular pants when cycling in the rain.",
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0
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0
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},
{
"text": "Nothing will be 100%.",
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0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's always possible to get splashed by something else from the side.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can avoid getting your pants dirty and save rotational weight at the same time by not wearing any pants at all.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/389/LanceH",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You could get big socks and try tucking your pants into them.",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
[
3
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},
{
"text": "I personally like these as they're waterproof too: http://www.sealskinz.com/socks",
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0
],
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "And for your shoes, you can get overshoes to protect them: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_shoe#Overshoes",
"label": [
0
],
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/472/Scott Langham",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use Helly Hansen Voss pants.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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2
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},
{
"text": "They are great",
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],
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},
{
"text": "and I can take them off/put them on with my shoes on. http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=voss+pants EDIT:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "Yes, I do sweat but not too bad as my commute is only 30 min.",
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},
{
"text": "If it's warm and raining I usually wear shorts and put pants in my bag.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/901/Andrew Boes",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Like the other answers, I would recommend putting on special trousers for cycling.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "For colder/wet weather, I use long cycling or hiking trousers (like these ); those have the additional advantage of protecting from cold an rain.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "You can either put them on instead of your regular pants, then change at work (more comfortable, less wear on regular trousers, but awkward to change in public), or just put them over your regular trousers (easier to change, and warmer).",
"label": [
0
],
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},
{
"text": "For warm weather, I just use common Lycra-type cycling shorts.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Yes, they are not very stylish, but they are very comfortable for riding, and changing into regular trousers is quite fast.",
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},
{
"text": "An additional option, particularly for short distances where changing trousers is too much hassle, are bike gaiters .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
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},
{
"text": "They are easier to pack and quicker to put on/take off than cycling trousers, but protect shoes and lower legs from dirt (and rain).",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "They are also a good alternative to rain-proof trousers, if you wear a poncho.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1093/sleske",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Much easier to wear cycling-specific clothing and just carry a change of clothes/shoes with you in a waterproof bag/pannier or leave some at work.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Anything more than fenders and flaps is going to be a hassle to deal with.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1998/Angelo",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I haven't cycled for years, but I walk about 9,5 kilometers to work every workday (and the same distance back), so I know the problem well.",
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},
{
"text": "From my experience the single most efficient measure is to wear shoes and pants of light colors - light gray, clay, etc, so that typical dirt is not that visible on them.",
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"text": "This fixes the problem once and for all",
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"text": "- I wash my sand color jeans once in maybe three weeks",
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"text": "and I just never wash light color shoes -",
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"text": "their outsoles get abrased to holes faster",
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"text": "(that is in about three months).",
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"text": "I recommend Neos Overshoes, which both my wife and I wear.",
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"text": "You wear your regular shoes inside of these, and these \"overshoes\" add a little warmth, protection and traction, covering some of your pant leg as well as your shoes.",
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"text": "They aren't the most attractive things out of the street, but you may arrive perfectly dry and clean at your destination.",
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"text": "I have the Voyager NEOS , but they have a less expensive Villager model as well.",
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"text": "The nice thing about NEOS is their versatility.",
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"text": "They are useful any time you need to go out in wet/dirty conditions, and are not just for cycling.",
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"text": "The don't \"clip in\", but if that's important to you, you might consider a reversible pedal that is flat on one side and has a clip on the other.",
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"text": "I use such pedals on one of my bikes that I use for both and long trips.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Gaiters such as skiers wear would be another option.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
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] | {
"question": "If it is wet, not necessarily pouring rain, it is easy to get the bottom of the pants and the shoes dirty. My tires have protective plates fenders, yet it is not enough. If there a way to avoid that?",
"title": "How to keep the pants from getting dirty",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<commuter><accessories><clothes><cleaning><weather>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2349",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/882/Katharina Friedrich"
} | 25_35 | [
[
"There are a number of ways to protect pants and shoes when cycling. Protective fenders or mudflaps can be installed on the bike. The rider can wear protective pants and shoes over the regular pants and shoes or wear cycling clothing and change at the destination. Finally, gaiters are an option, particularly for short distances where changing is a hassle.",
"A solution would be to use wider or better quality fenders, which would ideally cover the entire tire, or add a flexible mudflap at the front fender. It is also possible to use cycling-specific clothing, for instance protective pants, cycling shorts and gaiters. Moreover, you might want to put your trousers into bigger socks to protect them, or use overshoes that provide warmth, protection and traction, aside from keeping some of your trousers clean."
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"A solution would be to use wider or better quality fenders, which would ideally cover the entire tire.",
"You could consider using a flexible mudflap at the front, in addition to the fender.",
"It is possible to use cycling-specific clothing, for instance protective pants, like Helly Hansen Voss pants or cycling shorts.",
"You might want to put your trousers into bigger socks to protect them.",
"Gaiters can be used to protect your trousers, especially in short distances.",
"Overshoes may provide warmth, protection and traction, aside from keeping some of your trousers clean."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A thread on this subject on Bikeforums ran to pages and pages...",
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"text": "Some expressing utter horror that a bicyclist would feel the need to be armed, others ridiculing the whole idea, others with decent suggestions.",
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"text": "I'm a cop, I know that numbers of cyclists ride in conditions that are less than optimal.",
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"text": "We have had armed robberies and muggings of cyclists here in St. Louis, usually the bad guy is after the high-end bike.",
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"text": "As well, mountain bikers have been attacked by cougars in Western states.",
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"text": "Bicycling magazine detailed several such incidents while I subscribed.",
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"text": "Rare, but possible.",
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{
"text": "First up.",
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"text": "Having the weapon concealed on the bike is rather a bad idea if the intent of the bad guy is to steal the bike...",
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"text": "Your first indication of anything wrong might simply be a pedestrian knocking you over at an intersection.",
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"text": "Now, he's got your pistol too...",
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"text": "Unfortunately, cycling gear isn't much designed for concealed-carry.",
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"text": "I have a little Taurus 2\" 38 special as an \"off-duty\" weapon.",
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"text": "Drops right into my jersey pocket.",
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"text": "Sure, it \"prints\" there.",
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"text": "But then, I'm a cop...",
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"text": "I don't care.",
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"text": "A reasonable idea is the \"fanny pack\" (I've just been informed that Aussies call them \"bum bags\"...).As far as I know, you can still buy a fanny pack that is designed specifically to carry a firearm....",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1297/M. Werner",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Seems like stuff made for joggers could work for cycling.",
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"text": "http://www.activeprogear.com/jogger_holster.html",
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"text": "Would a small triangle frame bag work?",
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"text": "The kind I'm thinking of seem about the right size to hold a small-to-medium pistol, and fit on the rear end of the top tube.",
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"text": "Some sit on top, secured by the seat post, some hang under, secured by the seat tube.",
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"text": "Lots of options... http://www.google.com/images?q=triangle+frame+bag Or a frame bag designed to attach to the front of the top tube.",
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"text": "Or a handlebar bag...",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have a Bike Nashbar frame pack that would definitely fit a compact frame handgun:",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/17/Drew Stephens",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Just ran across a line of holsters that look interesting.",
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"text": "Relatively low cost, so I may have to try one out to see how well it works.",
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"text": "http://www.pistolwear.com/",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have one like the Nashbar frame pack, different brand but substantively the same thing.",
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"text": "Sucks that my Kahr PM-9, small though it is, adds pounds to my ultra-light bike, but in certain areas, I'd much rather not leave my firearm at home.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "First off you'll have to wear mostly regular clothes.",
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"text": "Using an inside-the-waistband holster will suit you well.",
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"text": "You can tuck a shirt in over the holster, then if you wear a jacket over that, it will be completely hidden.",
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"text": "I have an MTAC holster , and I sometimes carry when I am buying or selling stuff from craigslist.",
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"text": "I've never had issues where it became visible that I was carrying.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "One option that works well for me is using a belly band holster and a Ruger Lcp.",
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"text": "It hides easily under my cycling jerseys and is comfortable and secure even on 70+ mile rides in the heat of summer.",
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"text": "The only real issue is that the sweat can corrode the non stainless slide and spare magazine.",
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"text": "If you can spring for it get your slide and magazine covered at Robar in their NP3.",
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"text": "If not be sure to clean and re oil your gun after every ride.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26472/David A. Great Lakes State",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I use an Assault III backpack with a waist strap and a drop leg holster modified to attach to my hip using the leg platform as a pad.",
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"text": "I have a Glock 29 and it works well on a mountain bike.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I pedaled my bicycle from Seattle to key west carrying two guns .",
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"text": "I used two safepacker holsters strapped through the waist band for a Fannie pack which was attached around my waist.",
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"text": "Just Google safepacker holsters to get to the sites .",
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"text": "On the early portion of the trip I carried a 44 magnum Alaskan redhawk, then switched it out with a glock 20 and ruger 380 incase my primary malfunctioned .I switched the 44 magnum to the glock 20 after I was out of the mountains.",
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"text": "My every day carry on my bicycle around Miami beach is a glock 29 and a ruger 380 still using two safe packer holsters.glock29's are serious firepower as is the glock 20 and 44magnum Alaskan red hawk.",
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"text": "The 44 magnum will will take care of all natural threats I am told while the glock 20 has a tad less firepower.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I carry either a Sig938 (9mm) or a S&W 640 Revolver (357 Mag) in a TommyGun fanny pack works like a charm",
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] | {
"question": "For those of you that happen to cycle through rough neighborhoods and are able to do concealed carry of firearms... Wondering what you wear to conceal them that works well while cycling. Obviously the standard cycling outfit isn't going to do any good whatsoever... Various back/fanny packs seem like they'd be inconvenient. Most jackets that would work fine while walking would tend to \"ride up\" I'd think. Just curious as to what works and what doesn't work.",
"title": "How to carry a concealed firearm on a bike?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<clothes><cargo><us>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2401",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/349/Brian Knoblauch"
} | 25_36 | [
[
"Fanny packs, frame packs, holsters and assault backpacks are some options for carrying a concealed weapon when cycling. Obviously the rider would have to wear normal clothing not cycling gear for the weapon to be concealed.",
"There seem to be many ways to carry a concealed firearm on a bike. A solution would be to use a fanny pack, which is specifically designed for that end, or a frame pack, such as a Bike Nashbar frame pack. It is also possible to use a waistband or leg holster, often paired with straps or fanny packs. Finally, it is important to wear regular clothes on top."
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"A solution would be to use a fanny pack, which is specifically designed to carry a firearm.",
"Some people prefer using a frame pack, such as a Bike Nashbar frame pack.",
"It is important to wear regular clothes to conceal your firearm.",
"It is possible to use a waistband or leg holster, often paired with straps or fanny packs."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Squealing can be reduced by \"toe-in\" - making the front part of the brake pad touch first.",
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"text": "Check out Park Tool's instructions on servicing side-pull brakes:",
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"text": "http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service",
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"text": "Squealing is the result of a harmonic resonance from a slip-and-stick phenomenon, similar to how a violin bow resonates on a string.",
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"text": "The brake pads grab the rim and are pulled forward by the force of the wheel.",
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"text": "The arms must at sometimes jerk backwards, but if you are still braking, the arms are flexed forward again.",
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"text": "This is repeated again and again many times per second, and this creates the squeal.",
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"text": "Because of this, flexible and less expensive arms tend to squeal more than stiff calipers of better brakes.",
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"text": "It is possible to reduce squeal by having the leading edge of the brake pad strike first.",
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"text": "This tends to reduce the back and forth jerking of the arms.",
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"text": "But before you go trying to toe-in, make sure you're working with parts in good shape: Examine your brake pads .",
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"text": "If they are old and hard, worn deeply, or full of junk, replace them.",
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"text": "Otherwise, use coarse sandpaper to take off the surface to bring out fresh rubber.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "You only need to take off a tiny bit.",
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{
"text": "Clean your rims .",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
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},
{
"text": "Road grime, bike lubes, and brake material all collect on your rims.",
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Rubbing alcohol, vinegar, Simple Green, a product marketed as \"degreaser\" can all work.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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},
{
"text": "Don't let any get on the drivetrain or in the hubs.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Also, you'll need rags.",
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "True your wheels .",
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "There's no point in trying to adjust brakes on a wheel that isn't true (round and dished is good, too).",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "And you can't true a wheel if the hubs aren't in good shape.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/605/Jay Bazuzi",
"score": 49
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Jay's answer covers most of it and you should start with his suggestions (toe-in and greasy rims",
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{
"text": "are big culprits).",
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},
{
"text": "I'll only add two things: Brake pad type can sometimes make a difference.",
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},
{
"text": "Kool-stop \"salmon\" pads are widely recommended to reduce problematic squeals.",
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Some bike setups are more prone to squealing, even with clean rims, new salmon pads and perfectly aligned brakes.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's very unusual",
"label": [
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "but I had this problem on a previous bike (V-brakes on a carbon fork).",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My bike with pull brakes, squeal like crazy...",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "New pads, clean rims, adjusted well, still squeal.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Roughed up pads, still squeal.",
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},
{
"text": "Now I put alittle baby powder on each side of Rim, just a dusting.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I put a little baby power in palm of hand, take finger, dab in powder and rub some on the rim, each side.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Fixed my brakes, stops good and no squeals.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8325/cliff",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The above answers cover the critical information, but I'd add that some brakes make \"toe in\" adjustment easy (offset washers, or other means).",
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},
{
"text": "Some brakes require that you bend/twist the arms.",
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},
{
"text": "For the latter, I'd recommend your local bike shop mechanic...",
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"text": "if for no other reason that brakes are important safety equipment, and are therefore worth being looked at by a pro.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1031/daniel",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another cause for the noisy brakes is the brake pads not being fully tightened.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "In my experience such noise is more commonly seen in cantilever brakes whose mechanism is well explained by Jay Bazuzi's response.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7416/Akshay",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Painted wheel rims causes the squealing.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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},
{
"text": "You can try rubbing it down with sandpaper or just wait for it to wear down...",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "hence why the talc works!",
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0
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28522/JessieJJ",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry. Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me.",
"title": "How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><rim-brake>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2591",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/967/Promather"
} | 25_37 | [
[
"When brake pads are squeaking, the first thing to do is check they are not worn out. If they are, they need to be changed. Otherwise, \"toe in\" procedure, tightening them or rubbing them down with sandpaper may help. Alternatively, applying powder to the rims, rubbing alcohol, vinegar and Simple Green, a product marketed as \"degreaser\" can all work. Finally, salmon pads may be the answer to stopping the squeaking.",
"Flexible and inexpensive arms tend to squeal more due to their design. To stabilize the arms and reduce noise, you could make the leading edge of the brake pad touch first. This practice is called \"toe-in\". Another solution would be to check your break pads for damage or wear and make sure they are tightened. You could also try cleaning your pads with sandpaper. Alternatively, there might be a problem with your rims, especially if they are painted. Consider using a variety of products on your rims, including rubbing alcohol, vinegar, degreaser, sandpaper and baby powder. Finally, it is recommended that you use kool-stop \"salmon\" pads to reduce squealing, even though certain bike types cannot overcome this issue."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[
"You can try rubbing it down with sandpaper or just wait for it to wear down…"
]
]
} | [
4
] | [
[
"Flexible and inexpensive arms tend to squeal more due to their design.",
"To stabilize the arms and reduce noise, you could make the leading edge of the brake pad touch first. This practice is called \"toe-in\".",
"A solution would be to check your break pads for damage or wear and make sure they are tightened. You could also try cleaning your pads with sandpaper.",
"There might be a problem with your rims, especially if they are painted. Consider using a variety of products on your rims, including rubbing alcohol, vinegar, degreaser, sandpaper and baby powder.",
"It is recommended that you use kool-stop \"salmon\" pads to reduce squealing, even though certain bike types cannot overcome this issue."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Downtube shifters will really get you in touch with your bike--more than with many other shifting systems, I believe that I can actually FEEL the rear derailleur moving in my hand when I use them.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Needless to say, I ride a lot of old road bikes.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "You will quickly gain the control to shift either from various hand positions on your road bars.",
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],
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],
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"text": "Assuming the bike fits you, you should ultimately be able to use the shifters from nearly any position.",
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],
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"text": "You will, of course, use the right hand to shift the rear derailleur and the left hand to shift the front.",
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{
"text": "I will talk mostly about shifting the rear derailleur, as it will require the most control and finesse.",
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"text": "Note also that these shifters each have two main parts that are pertinent here, the LEVER and the BARREL.",
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"text": "The lever is pretty obvious--it's the usually-flattened handle that sticks out.",
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},
{
"text": "The barrel is the round bit which is attached to the frame.",
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},
{
"text": "The cable wraps around this round bit--as you turn the shifter",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": ", more or less cable is wrapped which is how the shifter moves the cable and thus the derailleur.",
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{
"text": "Ordinarily, when I reach down and the bike is in high gear--with the shift lever all the way forward and parallel with the downtube--I will grasp the lever by wrapping the thumb of my right hand over the end of the shift lever .",
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{
"text": "I press the side of my pointer finger against it and slowly pull back.",
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{
"text": "This motion has less control over precise gearing and is best suited for quickly downshifting before climbing.",
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"text": "If I am already in low gear and the shifter is out away from the downtube, I usually actually grasp the entire lever with my right hand.",
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"text": "In this mode, the tip of my thumb is on the barrel and my fingers are all wrapped around the shift lever.",
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"text": "Motion in either direction from this position can be very precise.",
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},
{
"text": "As I said, you can feel the derailleur move if you're cables are new and well-greased.",
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},
{
"text": "It's a good setup for shifters, in my opinion.",
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},
{
"text": "I can't say that I prefer downtube to integrated, but as far as simplicity is concerned... nothing beats it.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Except, perhaps, Sheldon Brown reaching down and putting his forefinger on the chain to move from upper to lower chainrings.",
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},
{
"text": "If you get a chance at the library, check out Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979).",
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1
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This book describes shifting and using downtube shifters rather well, right down to the groovy 70's costume.",
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},
{
"text": "De la Rosa describes another method of hanging the thumb (I think)",
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"text": "off of the top tube while reaching with the same hand's fingers down to the shift lever.",
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{
"text": "This only would work on a frame smaller than mine, but it's another piece of cycling history.",
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{
"text": "I hope this helps.",
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},
{
"text": "It certainly took my mind off my work for a few minutes!",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/710/DC_CARR",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There's not much too it.",
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{
"text": "Reach down, move the lever until it's in the gear you want and adjust so there is no chain rattle.",
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{
"text": "You'll get the hang of it quick.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/683/whatsisname",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Downtube shifters can be hard to get used to.",
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},
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"text": "When I first used them (after having more experience with on handlebar shifters)",
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"text": "I would feel a bit wobbly when trying to shift.",
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"text": "It really just takes practice.",
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"text": "If they are not indexed (click into gear) then just push the lever (up or down) until the gear changes.",
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"text": "If there is some chain rattle, then adjust until it goes away.",
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},
{
"text": "After a while it will be second nature.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1028/guitarthrower",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I ride a Dawes Scorpion and it uses downtube shifters as well.",
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{
"text": "I learned how to shift both levers with my left hand, because I prefer to keep my dominant hand on the handlebars so to prevent wobblin' out on the road.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3943/heyzahir",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Spend some time on the bike, if your bike has down tube shifters I would suggest riding in a low position and get used to the balance of the bike when letting go with one hand.",
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},
{
"text": "It doesn't take long and you'll have no problem at all.",
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},
{
"text": "Simply ride only this bike for a couple of weeks",
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},
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"text": "and you'll be all set.",
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"text": "After that go ahead and ride both.",
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{
"text": "I have two bikes as your describing and this is what I did.",
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{
"text": "Just a new habit to learn, don't over think it.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13683/Terry Welsh",
"score": 1
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One thing downtube shifters will let you know right away is if your position is setup with your weight too far forward.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you've got too much weight on your handsit will be very difficult to take one hand away without first sitting up.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you want to make life simpler, replace the cog set on the back with a more modern Freewheel that has hyperglide cogs.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "( Sunrace is reasonably good and easy to find ).",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you stick with the old stuff, you'll need to learn the art of slightly overshifting and then trimming back.",
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1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Eventually, you will learn to shift either lever with either hand, or even both at once with the same hand.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "But it's simpler to start out by just using your dominate hand for both.",
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},
{
"text": "While it's hard at the start, try and keep your eyes on the road and learn to shift by the sounds.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Headphones and downtube shifters really don't mix very well.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8445/Fred the Magic Wonder Dog",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have bought a vintage Campagnolo road bike, so the shifters are on the down tube. I own a mountain bike and i am used to changing gears on that one, but don't know the proper technique to change on this one. Update I am concerned about the technique (which hand to use, how do you keep the other on the handlebar) how do you know to shift in the correct position without an indexed shifter other tips and tricks",
"title": "How do I efficiently shift gears on a road bike with downtube shifters?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<road-bike><shifter><technique><campagnolo><downtube-shifter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2607",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/125/Gabriel Solomon"
} | 25_38 | [
[
"To get used to tube shifters, spending time on the bike is recommended. If your bike has down tube shifters riding in in a low position and getting used to the balance of the bike when letting go with one hand is also advised. There is a good book that covers the subject: Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979). While using tube shifters is hard at the start, the advice is to try and keep your eyes on the road and learn to shift by the sounds.",
"There are specific ways to use downtube shifters. Most characteristically, you could try placing your right hand to the rear derailleur and the left to the front end of the shift lever. That may vary, depending on the control, precision and speed required. In this context, you might want to familiarize yourself with your bicycle and experiment with riding in a low position or overshifting to find your balance. Another solution would be to pay attention to the sounds and downshift in case of any chain rattle. You could also refer to relevant publications to find more information."
]
] | {
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[
"There are specific ways to use downtube shifters. Most characteristically, you could try placing your right hand to the rear derailleur and the left to the front end of the shift lever. That may vary, depending on the control, precision and speed required.",
"You could refer to relevant publications to find more information.",
"A solution would be to pay attention to the sounds, specifically to downshift in case of any chain rattle. In this context, you should focus on the road and avoid headphones.",
"You might want to familiarize yourself with your bicycle and experiment with riding in a low position or overshifting to find your balance."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The best option would be to find a local bicycle co-op and offer them the parts.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(They would probably welcome bikes, rims, and tools.)",
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"text": "You may not be near a co-op; if that's the case, there are numerous \"pay it forward\" threads on bicycle forums, but you'd end up paying postage; useful for small or esoteric parts.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
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{
"text": "(I've given away a lot of stuff that way.)",
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"text": "You could also try Freecycle , but since that's more of a general audience, I doubt many people on those lists would even know what, say, a bottom bracket is , let alone how to use it.",
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],
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{
"text": "For giving away a complete working bike, this might be an excellent option.",
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},
{
"text": "(Hey, their logo includes a guitar and a bike!)",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "BikeWorks3709 S. Ferdinand St.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Seattle, WA 98118, USA Bike Works",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "(See comments for more info.)",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you've tried all of the charities and bike co-ops in your area and are still left with a pile of parts, you could try offering them (free or for a nominal charge) to the bike hackers over on the Atomic Zombie Forums (or somewhere similar).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If they're parts then they'll probably be glad of them, if they're frames then they'll probably only take them if they're not aluminium.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can never have too many tools.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Alternatively, depending on how much stuff you've got buy an arc welder and build your own trike or recumbent - plans here: Atomic Zombie Extreme Machines",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/79/Amos",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would just look for ads and/or post an ad on craigslist/kijiji.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I just saw an ad last week for someone looking for \"old bike parts in any condition\".",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "I kept the parts that I knew I could fix and that I would need and dropped the rest off to him.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In the Chicago area, donate those parts to Working Bikes Cooperative.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "Working Bikes is a 501c3 non-profit with the goal of diverting used bicycles and parts from the waste stream.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Bikes and parts are redistributed to partners in developing countries, primarily in Africa and Central America; to local partners in Chicago; and sold as the means to fund the organization.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "www.workingbikes.org for more info.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Working Bikes has drop off locations in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana and more.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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],
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have many old bikes, parts, specific tools, etc. Where can I give them to?",
"title": "I've got numerous bikes, bike frames, wheels, etc.that I'd like to donate",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<charities>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2639",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 25_39 | [
[
"Bike parts can be donated at local bike coops or charities. Parts can also be offered on forums such as Freecycle or Atomic Zombie Forums. Finally, another oprion is posting an ad on craigslist or kijiji.",
"A good solution would be to donate the parts to a bicycle co-op, local or otherwise. Alternatively, you might consider offering or selling the parts to a bicycle community, for instance to members of the Atomic Zombie Forums or Freecycle. There are also a number of pay-it-forward schemes on bicycle forums. Finally, you may post or answer an add on advertisements websites, such as Craigslist."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"A good solution would be to donate the parts to a bicycle co-op, local or otherwise.",
"There are a number of pay-it-forward schemes on bicycle forums.",
"You might consider offering or selling the parts to a bicycle community, for instance to members of the Atomic Zombie Forums or Freecycle.",
"You may post or answer an add on advertisements websites, such as Craigslist."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "http://alchemygoods.com/",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "They recycle inner tubes into usable products, and will give you credit towards their products for recycling.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "How about recycling them yourself?",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here are some ideas posted on the brilliant BikeHacks website.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Shoelaces, wallet, yarn, handlebar tape, top tube passenger seat, dog lead, Maglite handlebar attachment, rack, key chain bling, bike bell, repaired bike seat...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1593/Hugo",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so i'm guessing REI in the states also will",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/427/mgb",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Somewhat off topic",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "but when I was 13 (or something like that)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I went to a scout summer camp.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "A bike shop had given the camp a big pile of used tubes.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It was Awesome.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We made tonnes of stuff with them that summer including giant sling shots between two trees.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "I am not sure",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "but maybe an ad on kijiji or craigslist could find a home for these.",
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0
],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "See http://www.ibike.org/environment/recycling/ for organizations that ship bikes to 3rd world countries.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I am a member of the Village Bicycle Project in Seattle WA we collect bikes and parts including usable tires and inner tubes.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Inner tubes with no worse than a simple puncture are accepted.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We do not encourage making usable inner tubes into designer handbags.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29163/Frank Kroger",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've seen a number of local bike shops that were running programs to recycle old tires and tubes.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "They never seem to keep running for a long time though, so it strikes me that there's some sort of problem with those, otherwise they'd keep going.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I suppose it's worth asking your LBS?",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/563/zigdon",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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},
{
"text": "If the store also sell the green guru gear they get a discount off the wholesale price and the will alternately pay for the shipping.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "They have a pretty good price point too.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "They will pick up anywhere in Colorado and have quite a few places to drop tubes in California and also in Minneapolis and near Charlotte, NC.",
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0
],
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],
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{
"text": "I think they are in REI and MEC now.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3560/Phill",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a way to repurpose them, but recycling is a hard thing to come by.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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{
"text": "Right now its just a local project called Bicycle Re-Cycle, in Austin, TX but open for ideas and poeple willing to help make a difference.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "check out http://bicycle-recycle.com/",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5874/user5874",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "The local bike shop, not the wealthiest operation, has a pile of dead inner tubes growing on the floor. I'd love to discover something where used inner tubes are repurposed, melted down, made into something else. Similar to how e-waste is harvested and repurposed. We have need for only so many rubber bands and so many bungees.",
"title": "Is there a recycling program that accepts unrepairable inner tubes?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<innertube><puncture>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2640",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1039/parisminton"
} | 25_40 | [
[
"MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so probably REI in the states also will. The website http://www.ibike.org/environment/recycling/ lists organizations that ship bikes to 3rd world countries. Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes. Moreover, there are a number of local bike shops running programs to recycle old tires and tubes. Finally, you could recycle them yourself.",
"You could try recycling used parts yourself or address certain recycling companies, like MEC, might accept unrepairable inner tubes. Another solution would be to look for non-profit organizations that may need parts. Finally, some companies, like Green Guru, or local bike shops may accept tubes for recycling purposes."
]
] | {
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[
"You could try recycling used parts yourself.",
"Certain recycling companies, like MEC, might accept unrepairable inner tubes.",
"A solution would be to look for non-profit organizations that may need parts.",
"Some companies, like Green Guru, or local bike shops may accept tubes for recycling purposes."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Baffling - place it on carpet or a rug (and several towels), this will both stop vibration through the floor and catch the drips of sweat.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/425/Unsliced",
"score": 16
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I know this is an old question, but I think I have come up with a nice solution to this problem.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I am an engineer and I have dealt with some vibration issues in scientific equipment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "When I got my trainer and felt the vibration in the floor, I decided to apply the same principles to this problem.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Vibration vs. Acoustic Transmission",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "The first thing to realize is that there are two separate paths to be addressed here.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "The first is acoustic: the sound your trainer makes in the air around it that may transmit to adjacent rooms.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The second is vibration: the motion that your trainer transmits into the structure supporting it (the floor).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fortunately for me, my apartment has decent acoustic insulation, so what follows treats only vibration isolation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If your neighbor can hear you talking",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you may be out of luck.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Design",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The first line of defense is to reduce the vibration created in the first place by using a smooth tire and a fluid trainer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The rest must be dealt with in the isolator.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "We need a material that will absorb the vibration energy.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I chose a material called Sorbothane .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We also need a material to spread the load of the trainer among the isolators.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "For this I used Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is a practical limit to how much isolation can be achieved in a single stage, so I used a cascade of 2 stages (any more made it too unstable).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "The Sorbothane is cut into small pieces in each layer.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Note that it is not just a matter of putting some amount of Sorbothane in the layer, you must optimize the pressure to produce the minimum possible natural frequency.",
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0
],
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0
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},
{
"text": "Following the equations provided here , I determined that I would use 6 isolators each 1.333\"x2\"x0.5\"",
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],
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},
{
"text": "(you can cut 6 out of a 4\"x4\" sheet).",
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],
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},
{
"text": "That is for a 150 pound rider, a 15 pound bike, a 20 pound trainer, and 10 pounds of MDF.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If your total load is significantly different, you may want to re-run the equations.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can get the Sorbothane on amazon .",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Results",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Here is what the setup looks like:",
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],
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},
{
"text": "It works great!",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "You can feel the reduction as you move your finger from stage to stage.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Note that it is not the most stable thing in the world...",
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],
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},
{
"text": "you have to get onto it very carefully.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "But once you're on it this actually makes it feel a bit more natural since you can sway from side to side a little.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/35793/Houston Fortney",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I picked up a set of interlocking rubber tiles (for gym equipment) at Home Depot to put under my trainer and bike.",
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],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "They help with the vibration although I find it's still quite loud.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It also helps having neighbours that are noisier than me, they can't really complain about the bike.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/157/darkcanuck",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are tires ( tacx.com ) made specifically for the trainer.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "They use a different rubber compound that will minimize wear and contact noise.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It won't help with the mechanical side of the trainer though.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As Zenbike says... Much of the noise is generated by the tires.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Any smooth harder-compound \"slick\" is going to be quieter than a tread with a lot of pattern.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "The one I have now, a Minoura, is decently quiet.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I can't hear it over the TV.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "However, my previous item generated a high-pitched buzz that was quite annoying.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1297/M. Werner",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I cut up some egg crate foam and used it to line a cardboard box that has a large 6 inch wide slit in it for my tire and just put the box over my trainer.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "This worked extremely well, you just have to be sure to secure everything well so that nothing gets in the way of the trainer and tire.",
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},
{
"text": "You can also get thick styrofoam insulation sheets at Home Depot and fashion a box with appropriate slots for wheel and trainer stand.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There is special glue to glue the joints of the box together.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5912/mike",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Aside from dampening it (foams) or switching to trainer specific tires (which will also last longer, like the Continental Hometrainer), the type of trainer plays a big part.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can have a fan, something thats magnetic , fluid, etc.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "- the fluid trainers tend to be quieter than the ones which are fans, for example.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Even within the same class, some models may be quieter than others.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "So, you may be able to get quieter operation by appropriate trainer selection.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8219/Batman",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Belt dressing works wonders for the high-pitched squeal when pedaling.",
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1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "You can get it at a good hardware or industrial hardware.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Spray it on the tire when pedaling.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32479/doug",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I like in an apartment, use a trainer regularly and have never had any complaints (I use a cyclops fluid 2 trainer).",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "My strategy is to use a mat with a plank on top.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "My thinking is the plank will spread the vibrations from the trainer more evenly into the mat, and thus further reduce the noise for the neighbors.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "With regard to tyre choice, I have always used an indoor trainer tyre, which has little grip-",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'm unsure if this has any impact on noise.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Last but not least, probably the best thing you can do to reduce noise is get a fluid or magnetic trainer, as opposed to a wind trainer (although these are more expensive.)",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30433/User632716",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I just got complaints from my downstairs neighbour, so I'm going to have to build a platform of some kind to dampen then sound.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the past I used a layer of carpet with a sheet of plywood on top, but back then I had nicer neighbours who never even knew I riding indoors.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36174/DB NYC",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I use a trainer at home. It works quiet. But living in an apartment I would like to make it work quieter. What can I do to minimize noise of a trainer?",
"title": "What can be done to make a trainer work quieter?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<noise><trainer>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2656",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/677/spinodal"
} | 25_41 | [
[
"Some trainers are noisier than others, so trainer selection is important if you need it to be quiet. To reduce noise, place the trainer on a softer surface that will damp the vibrations, like a carpet, a mat or some towels or styrofoam. Moreover, there are specific tires for trainers available on the market.",
"You could try insulating with the help of carpets, rugs, mats or even egg crate foam. More sophisticated and specialized alternatives to reduce noise include insulation sheets, isolators and a Medium-density fibreboard to balance the trainer's weight. Another solution would be to reduce vibration by means of an absorbent material, a different tire or fluid trainer. In this context, the type of tires may play a big part, as some smooth rubber compounds reduce contact noise. It is also possible to use belt dressing to reduce noise ,and squealing in particular. Finally, certain trainer models may be quieter, even within the same class."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
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} | [
4
] | [
[
"You could try insulating with the help of carpets, rugs, mats or even egg crate foam. More sophisticated and specialized alternatives to reduce noise include insulation sheets, isolators and a Medium-density fibreboard to balance the trainer's weight.",
"A solution would be to reduce vibration by means of an absorbent material, a different tire or fluid trainer.",
"It is possible to use belt dressing to reduce noise ,and squealing in particular.",
"Certain trainer models may be quieter, even within the same class.",
"The type of tires may play a big part, as some smooth rubber compounds reduce contact noise."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The main difference with belt drive is that you can't break the belt, so you need a specially built frame that allows the belt to be fitted.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "On a chain-driven bike the chain usually runs though the frame between the seatstay and chainstay.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This makes retrofitting a belt drive impossible on most bikes.",
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},
{
"text": "Similarly, you're limited to the belt lengths available from the manufacturer.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I have seen bikes with exposed belt drives but that does not seem like a good idea to me.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Once you get mud or dust in there it's going to grind away the belt and pulleys, and parts are usually expensive (because they're uncommon).",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I don't know much about how they wear as I've never seen one that's had much use (which in itself should tell you something).",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Once the belt is fully enclosed it becomes just like an enclosed chain drive, except that it can't be serviced by bike shops.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I suspect this is the real deal-breaker for most people.",
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},
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"text": "Belts usually have higher losses than chain drives, making them unattractive for high-performance bikes and hindering their adoption in other bikes (because much of the profit for bike shops is in the more expensive bikes).",
"label": [
1
],
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've never ridden a belt-drive bicycle, but I've ridden both belt and chain drive motorcycles and the belt drive is considerably smoother and quieter.",
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},
{
"text": "One of the features being used to tout belt-driven bikes is that they don't require lubing, so that would be a plus.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In addition to not needing to take the time to properly lube your drive-train, the lack of lube would mean less attractant for dirt/dust etc.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Each manufacturer would probably have their own recommendations about operating temperature range and how often to change them.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/638/alesplin",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Belt drives can't be used with derailleurs so the bike will be single speed or need an (expensive) hub gear.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There were some cars that used a belt drive, usually with a v-belt and split pulleys to give a continuously variable gear -",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "haven't heard of any bike doing this.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/427/mgb",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "What are other properties with belt-drive chain?",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Main differences compared to using a chain: belt does not need lubrication (less maintenance) as it is not lubricated, it attracts less dirt, and is cleaner, even if it is exposed (less danger to mess up clothing)",
"label": [
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "it has more friction/power loss than a chain (but less than a badly-oiled chain)",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "it stretches more than a chain under heavy load (so less suitable for high-performance cycling)",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "it needs a frame that can be split, because the belt cannot be split it cannot be combined with a derailleur Where is the idea got?",
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},
{
"text": "The idea is very old.",
"label": [
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It was used in the first steam engines (and probable even earlier).",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines?",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Yes, they are quite common.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In particular, the alternator in a car is usually driven by a belt.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Are they durable?",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Do they last in all kind of weather?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Like in freezing winter to sunny summer?",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I don't know specific numbers, but they should last at least as long as a chain, and modern belts should have no trouble with high/low temperatures (they are used in cars as well, after all).",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Do they stretch like steel chains?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Actually, steel chains don't strecht (noticeably), the just get longer from wear.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Belts on the other hand do strech under load (see above).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "When should you change them?",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "No idea, but they should last considerable longer than a chain (less wear).",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1093/sleske",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "(I know that this is an old question, but nobody has answered it with real-world experience.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I have a 'Scott Venture 10' as a suburban utility bike since two years.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "I don't ride it as much as my road bike, but it has seen its share of use.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It has a carbon-fibre reinforced drive belt, and Shimano Alfine hub gears.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There a couple of advantages that I can think of:",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "It doesn't require any maintenance.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Or at least much less than a conventional chain.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Especially when riding in rain.)",
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],
"label_summ": [
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"text": "I don't have to tuck my trousers into my socks to keep them clean/whole.",
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"text": "When walking past the bike in the shed I don't risk ruining my trousers by rubbing against a dirty chain.",
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"text": "According to the manufacturers the estimated life of a belt is significantly longer than that of a chain.",
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"text": "The main disadvantage is (as mentioned above) that it requires a split frame, which one would naively think would reduce rigidity.",
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"text": "The manufacturers claim that this is not the case, however...",
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"text": "It's also quite a bit more expensive (and specialized) to replace.",
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"text": "An ideal chain is more efficient than a belt, but in most real-world scenarios there is no real difference.",
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"score": 6
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}
] | {
"question": "This reply about belt-driven belt got my interest here . It does not need lubrication at all according to the replier. What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Where does the idea come from? Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? Do they stretch like steel chains? When should you change them?",
"title": "Properties with Belt-driven Chains?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chain><belt-drive>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2965",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 25_43 | [
[
"Belt drive is not exclusive to bikes. It dates back to the first steam engines, and is also used in car alternators. One of the main problems is that belt-driven bikes have higher losses in terms of friction and power, and stretch more under weight, which compromises performance. Moreover, the structure of belt-driven bikes is more specialized, hence they are more difficult and expensive to replace. There are also limitations regarding the length of the belt and the gears. On the other side, the advantages of belt drive include less maintenance, as lubing is not required, greater product life and a cleaner bike. Regardless, some argue that, in real terms, there are no great differences between chain and belt drive.",
"One of the main problems is that belt-driven bikes have higher losses in terms of friction and power, and stretch more under weight, which compromises performance. "
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"One of the main problems is that belt-driven bikes have higher losses in terms of friction and power, and stretch more under weight, which compromises performance. ",
"You might want to consider that the structure of belt-driven bikes is more specialized, hence they are more difficult and expensive to replace. There are also limitations regarding the length of the belt and the gears.",
"The advantages of belt drive seem to include less maintenance, as lubing is not enquired, greater product life and a cleaner bike.",
"Belt drive is not exclusive to bikes. It dates back to the first steam engines, and is also used in car alternators.",
"In real terms, there are no great differences between chain and belt drive."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Get yourself two hose clamps that'll fit around the tube and some rubber strips to put under then",
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"text": "so they don't scratch the paint up too badly.",
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"text": "They'll hold a bottle cage on just fine.",
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"text": "If you can see under the dirt and grime, that's exactly how the bottle cage in this picture is mounted: Edit: Here's another picture of a bottle cage mounted with hose clamps (not mine).",
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"text": "The Twofish Quick Cage has worked well for me.",
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"text": "Not terribly pricey, and easy to reposition as needed.",
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"text": "Not as secure as the hose clamp solution, however.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I know this isn't what you asked, but have you considered a Camelbak ?",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Are you only considering a frame mount?",
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"text": "If not, there are options for mounting a cage on the seat rails , seat post , and handlebars .",
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"text": "In addition, if the frame is all that you'll consider, there are a number of options for \"clamp-type\" water bottle systems .",
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"text": "You didn't mention, but if you have a carbon frame you'll need to choose an appropriate clamp so as not to damage the frame.",
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"text": "Not sure if you use a seat bag?",
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"text": "An option is to switch from a seat bag to a dual-mount seat-rail water bottle cage; and then, carry your extras in something like this, http://www.amazon.com/Tacx-Tool-Tube-Storage-Bottle/dp/B002SR0JRM and if you're frugal, a water bottle could be cut-down for the purpose.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've been facing the same issue, trying to mount an additional bottle cage to the underside of the downtube on my mountain bike.",
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"text": "I haven't settled on one particular solution yet, but I found this site helpful as it outlines various different solutions: http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1166/Russ",
"score": 2
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"sents": [
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"text": "As a Strida owner, I've struggled with exactly this problem.",
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"text": "I went with the KLICKFix solution, and couldn't be more pleased.",
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"text": "It's not always",
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"text": "I like to carry a bottle, so",
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"text": "I really like the fact that I just remove the whole thing in a split second.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Another option is to fit additional threaddd mounts to your frame.",
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"text": "This works fine if your frame is steel , but I wouldn't try this on a carbon or aluminium frame.",
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"text": "The threaded insert is called a rivnut or a nutsert and looks like this: You would drill two holes in your steel frame barely big enough for the OD of your nuts, press the nuts into place, and then use a rivnut tool or a suitably-threaded nut and bolt to crush the rivet part closed.",
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"text": "The thread is 5 x 0.8mm and is the same as your normal water bottle mount bolts, and coincidentally many wheel skewers too.",
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"text": "Epoxy or JB Weld would be a good idea too to help stabilise the insert.",
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"text": "You can also hire rivnut tools from hire companies - they're not cheap.",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "On a carbon frame I used cheap Zefal Gizmo mounts for attaching kit the way it was intended.",
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"text": "Below you can see it carrying a Kryptonite Modulus lock on my bike",
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"text": "but you can obviously attach a bottle cage or whatever and wherever you like.",
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"text": "I did 100s of miles with it without any issue.",
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"text": "I'm not sure if the mounts came with rubber strips as you can see on the picture.",
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"text": "I may have used some spare ones from cycle light mounts for extra grip and protection.",
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"text": "You could cut out such strips from an old tube.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13245/Johnny Baloney",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I only have one set of water bottle mount screws on my bike. I would like to have an additional water bottle. Ideally I would like to mount the bottle on the frame (preferably on the vertical tube). Bonus: Can I order/build in Canada?",
"title": "Mount additional water bottle on bike frame with only one water bottle mount",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<hydration>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3358",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude"
} | 25_45 | [
[
"There are a number of solution for attaching another water bottle to the bike. Twofish Quick Cage and KLICKfix are two. Mounts for the fram can also be bought for attaching extra equipment. Moreover, mounts can also be attached to the seat, seat post and handlebars.",
"It is possible to use a water bottle system based on clamps or attach thread mounts for additional support. Additionally, you could consider mounting a cage on your bike. There are a number of relevant products available."
]
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"There are a number of products available.",
"It is possible to use a water bottle system based on clamps.",
"You might want to attach thread mounts for additional support, for instance Zefal Gizmo mounts.",
"You could consider mounting a cage on your bike. A good choice would be the Twofish Quick Cage."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "That's 4 days to evaluate all the routes.",
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"text": "I'd just ride them.",
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"text": "You can spend a lot of time with mapping tools trying to evaluate gradients and still get it wrong.",
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"text": "Unless you can find a cycling guide that discusses the issue you will almost certainly not get a good answer.",
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"text": "For a motor transport engineer (the people who design roads) anything under 1:10 is fine on a minor road, 1:20 on a major road.",
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"text": "They just don't care about short steep sections vs long gentle sections.",
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"text": "The flattest route could easily be the one where you come out of a compulsory stop onto a short steep section that climbs less than the 5m interval between contours on a most-detailed map.",
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"text": "One electronic solution would be to use google streetview to survey each route.",
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"text": "Look at the angle between the street and the vertical walls or horizontal floors.",
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"text": "That will give you a rough idea of the slope of the road at each point.",
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"text": "A lot of the online mapping websites have elevation data you can use to figure it out.",
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"text": "Example 1:",
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"text": "Go to http://maps.google.com/ choose the bicycle icon and ask for directions.",
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"text": "Once it gives you the map, switch to the \"map\" instead of satellite view and turn on the terrain overlay.",
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"text": "When you ask for bicycle directions it tries to avoid steep climbs and the terrain data overlay can give you some idea how bad things are.",
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"text": "You can drag points on the route to force it into giving you a specific route.",
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"text": "Example 2:",
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"text": "Go to http://www.mapmyride.com/ -- go through the annoying interface to create a new ride (there's some annoying ad stuff).",
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"text": "Once you've done that, you can see some data including a graph of the climbs.",
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"text": "Do that for all the routes and compare side by side.",
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"text": "There's a lot of competing websites for that kind of thing that you can search for out there.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A very good solution is Google Earth .",
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"text": "If you create a route (either create one or get a recorded track from a GPS device), you can see it's elevation profile (right click on the route and \"Show Elevation Profile\"):",
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"text": "The profiling is interactive and linked to the map, so you can easily see where the \"problem\" (eg too high elevation) is on the map and modify your track accordingly.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1331/Czechnology",
"score": 6
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"sents": [
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"text": "Strava has a fantastic route planning tool for both running and biking, including an option to minimize elevation gain.",
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"text": "Their app is also great for tracking your activity, and integrates with many other tools.",
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"text": "For one of my routes, compare: to this easier route without the climb: Playing with waypoints can sometimes improve results - moving my endpoint over half a block can shift the routing to several of the east-west roads to get around a small hill.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Do you have access to an elevation map of the area?",
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"text": "I believe on that type of map, the closer together the lines are, the steeper the grade.",
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"text": "You could try ridewithgps .",
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"text": "It's fairly simple.",
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"text": "You go to this site and plot out a route(s) on the map.",
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"text": "As you create the route you'll get a graphic of the elevation profile below the map.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Try this it is the best I have seen.http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/. Neil: yes of course.",
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"text": "The website allows you to actually map the route and works out the road stuff for you so you can just work out the main points rather than every time it changes direction.",
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"text": "Also it does all the height stuff and a text print out.",
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"text": "Remember in the UK we do not have bike on google maps.",
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"text": "You might want to try bbbike.org , a cycle route planner based on OpenStreetMap data that I only discovered recently.",
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"text": "Other than standard Google routing",
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"text": "(that in some countries doesn't provide detailed settings for cyclists), it allows to set precise preferences for the planning, for example only residential roads, or roads suitable for road bikes.",
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"text": "After calculating the route, it returns the average run time, directions, a simple height profile, an interactive map and downloadable tracks in various formats that can be imported into Google Earth.",
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"text": "From there you can follow Czechnology's answer.",
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"text": "If you want the best of all of these just put your route on mycycletour.com.",
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"text": "It will give you the elevation profile, and also run a streetview movie of the journey so you can see how steep the hills are.",
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] | {
"question": "I commute to work on a single-speed road bike, so it's a lot easier if I avoid any steep hills (preferring to cover the same gradient gradually). Taking a look at a map, there are seemingly 3-4 sensible routes to get from point A to point B. Short of trying them all, is there any way to evaluate which has the most gradual climb?",
"title": "Mapping the most gentle route for my single speed",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<commuter><bikeroutes><single-speed>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3366",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/608/Ryan"
} | 25_46 | [
[
"A lot of the online mapping websites have elevation data you can use to figure it out. These include Google Earth, Strava, ridewithgps, bbbike.org and mycycletour.com.",
"It is possible to retrieve elevation data from mapping websites to figure the easiest routes. In this context, a number of websites, tools and applications can be used to evaluate routes, including Google Earth, Strava, ridewithgps, bbbike.org and mycycletour.com among others"
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"It is possible to retrieve elevation data from mapping websites to figure the easiest routes.",
"A number of websites, tools and applications can be used to evaluate routes, including Google Earth, Strava, ridewithgps, bbbike.org and mycycletour.com among others. "
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "Presumably a 50% reduction in punctures?",
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"text": "One less obvious advantage is that they are not a bicycle, legally speaking.",
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"text": "So while you can't ride on the road in most places, you can take one on public transport and into buildings etc.",
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"text": "I commuted to university on one for that reason - I could ride into my lectures :)",
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"text": "For a while anyway, there's the \"Moz Memorial Rule Against Unicycles\" now.",
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"text": "They work a different set of muscles, and train a differet set of reflexes.",
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"text": "Balance skills are useful to have, and the entertainment value of a unicycle should not be ignored.",
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"text": "Both in the \"I'm waiting, I know, I'll practice stairs\" and the \"look at me, put money in my hat\" senses.",
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"text": "For commuting I found a 26\" was ideal as a compromise between speed and size, although I ended up using a 20\" a lot just for easy of parking.",
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"text": "If I could have got the Schlumpf hub it would have been perfect.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "From an exercise standpoint, a unicycle works a much different set of muscles than a bicycle.",
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"text": "You use a lot more core strength to maintain balance and steer.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1357/GDorn",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A unicycle is almost the ultimate cross-mode transport system.",
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"text": "I mix it with our trains and buses without restrictions (we have public transport policy that separates unis from bikes).",
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"text": "I commonly put it in the back of the car when I go somewhere with my wife that is not parking friendly.",
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"text": "I can carry the thing through shops and malls without any issues.",
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"text": "It is easily stored under my desk at work.",
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"text": "It is fine in winter if you have end-of-trip faciliities, better in fact than when I was capable of riding a bike.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Impressing your friends with your awesome skills should you master the thing?",
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"text": "Potential work in the circus field?Vast improvement in balance?",
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},
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"text": "On the downside...",
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"text": "Lost skin, closer relations with your orthopedic man... Good luck!",
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"text": "I've always been rather balance-challenged.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1297/M. Werner",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "More fun.",
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"text": "I've ridden a uni for 30 year, and it feels like skiing or skating.",
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"text": "Biking, for me anyway, is just boring.",
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"text": "Also, in regard to another post, unis now-a-days do have disc brakes.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Good for your posture and lower back I would have thought as you're engaging those muscles in order to balance.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1358/John Hunt",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle, as opposed to owning a bicycle? I can think of several: They are lighter and smaller than bikes Easier to maintain, fewer moving parts They provide good practice for balancing",
"title": "What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<unicycle>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3436",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1342/Ambo100"
} | 25_47 | [
[
"Unicycles work different muscles to conventional bicycles. They require more balance and thus work the core and lower back. They cannot be ridden on road but they can be taken on public transport and carried into shops and malls. Moreover, riding a unicycle impresses people and is more fun than a bicycle.",
"Unicycles are more flexible in terms of transport, as you can carry them on public transport and into buildings, and store them at work or in cars. They train a different set of muscles and develop balance skills. This works towards improving your posture and core strength in particular. Finally, riding a unicycle can be entertaining for yourself and others."
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"Unicycles are more flexible in terms of transport, as you can carry them on public transport and into buildings.",
"Unicycles train a different set of muscles and develop balance skills. This works towards improving your posture and core strength in particular.",
"It is easy to store a unicycle at work or in a car.",
"Riding a unicycle can be entertaining for yourself and others."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It appears that there are several products under this name, a general-purpose solvent/protectant and a dedicated bike chain lube.",
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"text": "Reviews on Amazon are rather mixed...",
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"text": "One fellow claims no better than WD-40, others appear to like it.",
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"text": "Chain lubes are always controversial and seldom tested in a rigorous manner.",
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"text": "WD-40 is essentially a cleaner/solvent and has no more lubricating ability than say...Kerosene.",
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"text": "The best chain lube I ever tried is sadly not being made any more...",
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"text": "Schwinn Factory Wax.",
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"text": "Clean-running, persistent, and according to testing by Bicycling magazine, among the top for wear and abrasion resistance.",
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"text": "To my way of thinking, keeping the chain clean and free of built-up crud and goo is as/more important than what sort of lube used.",
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"text": "Don't bother with spray lube.",
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"text": "It takes only seconds to apply lube from a drip container.",
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"text": "I highly recommend ProGold .",
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"text": "Spraying on lube makes a mess, gets lube on the outer plates of your chain (where it will just collect dirt and grime), and is wasteful to boot.",
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"text": "Just prop your bike up, turn the drip container upside down, touch it to a link, apply a little pressure, and rotate your cranks backward at a medium speed.",
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"text": "You might want to start slowly at first, but eventually you get a feel for how quickly lube gets sucked into the chain.",
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"text": "I don't bother counting links, I just take a quick glance to make sure the links about to go under the bottle are already lubed.",
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"text": "Spin the cranks a bit to make sure the lube works its way into the links, and finally grab the chain with a used rag and spin the cranks until the rag stops collecting dirt.",
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"text": "I squeeze the sides of the plates and get them, then I do it again for the tops and bottoms.",
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"text": "Total time is maybe a minute and a half, and an $8 bottle of lube lasts me for months of weekly application.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1442/Stephen Touset",
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"text": "There is a lab in the U.S.-- Friction Facts -- which publishes a variety of cycling-oriented reports, designed to help riders of all kinds.",
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"text": "Their basic premise is that many small improvements in efficiency are collectively significant.",
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"text": "One of their reports is concerning the best chain lube; a summary of this ran back in 2013 in Velo News .",
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"text": "Unfortunately, I am unaware of any free version of this available on the Web; however, you can download the whole series of reports from Friction Facts for $15 U.S./£10.",
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"text": "That said, I am not a shill for Friction Facts.",
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"text": "In a nutshell, what they showed in their testing was that the best chain lubes are wax-based: regular parrafin wax, Molten Speed Wax , Squirt Lube , and so forth.",
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"text": "Their test showed that the amount of energy lost to chain friction can be greatly affected by lube choice; there is roughly 3.7 Watts of difference between the best and worst lubes in their test.",
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"text": "While it isn't something you're likely to notice on a practical level-- just using a wax lube won't take someone from zero to hero-- for an average rider, who can output an average of 150 Watts for a long ride, it works out to be about a 2.7% improvement.",
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"text": "Collectively, were you to follow all of their recommendations (regarding chain lube, specific chain, pedal, derailleur pulleys, and so forth), they suggest that these improvements will collectively deliver about a 20 Watt savings, which is pretty significant.",
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"text": "But I am not a professional racer, and I ride mainly for fitness,",
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"text": "so I don't mind some losses due to drivetrain inefficiencies, and if a particular lube delivered extra chain life, I might consider it, even if it was not as efficient as some.",
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"text": "BTW, I'm writing from the U.S., and have no idea what GT85 is.",
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"text": "I've used GT85 on chains and general bike use for years.",
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"text": "Unlike WD40 it is loaded with PTFE (Teflon) so does have some lubrication properties",
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"text": "but they are very small.",
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"text": "As far as I'm aware it should be treated like WD40 primarily as a water dispersant after cleaning or wet weather riding.",
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"text": "I always supplement it with proper chain lube (either dry or wet depending on the bike and conditions).",
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"text": "I am sure WD40 lubricates sufficiently if its present in clean lab conditions, however it does not stick very well and any quantity applied is really thin so will not hang around very long.",
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"text": "From a chain grease you want it to stay between the rubbing surfaces and continue lubricating.",
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"text": "You also want it blocking as much dirt from contaminating the contact surfaces sealing them from contamination which WD40 or other thin oil will never do.",
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"text": "WD40/GT85 and other thin oil will wash off in rainy wet conditions, and not lubricate or protect the chain for very long.",
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"text": "Something thicker is going to be better, also keep in mind that a road bike will work well with a thinner oil/grease then some off road bike being cycled through a swamp.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Bike Parts USA have it for sale on their website where they describe it as: Ozone friendly Excellent chain and cable lubricant Stops Oxidation, rust and salt corrosion on metals (sic) surfaces",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Loosens rusted or corroded nuts and bolts",
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0
],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "So if it isn't any good for your chain somebody better tell them.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/79/Amos",
"score": 0
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I remember a bike magazine in UK recommending GT85 (its a glorified WD40, with the addition of Teflon in it) and they got slammed as the stuff was just not up to scratch, especially for Mountain Bikes.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
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"text": "My answer to this question would be no, dont use it.",
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{
"text": "I dont have a source for this, happened about 7yrs ago./",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/316/Simon",
"score": 0
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "GT85 is useful on outdoor bikes.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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"text": "I wouldn't use it on the chain of my decent bike",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "but I also have a bike kept outdoors in a rather wet city, with limited space to store spares etc.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": "and no chance to clean it except a while with a rag.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "As even the sprockets are steel on this bike, something that gives an even coating of oil is worth having.",
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],
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"text": "It does seem to stay on the parts long term, unlike WD40.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "It also helps with the sticky shifters on the same bike.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "So for a good, specialist bike, use good, specialist products, suitable for the conditions.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "For something low performance and cheap, any oil is better than none.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've been told by various sources that WD40 is bad for your chain so have avoided using it. I've seen people using GT85 on their chains but I'm not really sure how the two products differ. So my question is, should GT85 be used on your chain? Or, does it have the same damaging effects as WD40?",
"title": "Should you use GT85 on your chain?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chain><lubricant>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3579",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/446/Phil Hale"
} | 26_0 | [
[
"Chain lubes are always controversial and seldom tested in a rigorous manner. The reviews for GT85 on Amazon are mixed. Some people like it others do not. ",
"GT85 has several products, some specifically marketed as bike lube. They are not well tested, but it can be assumed that the spray works better than WD40 due to the added PTFE. These sprays are primarily for cleaning and water displacement, and are too light to last for long in a chain. However, on a cheap bike they are convenient and better than nothing. It would be better to use lube after though."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
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} | [
5
] | [
[
"There are several products with this name, with mixed reviews and without thorough testing.",
"WD40 is primarily for cleaning and water displacement, and should be supplemented with proper lubricant. It is better than nothing though, and GT85 is better still due to the added PTFE, but it is too thin for long term use."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "What you are looking for is a hybrid tire with not enough tread to be a nuisance and slow you down on the road, but enough tred so that when you go off road you are not losing traction on gravel and mud.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "For example Bontrager makes a hybrid tire that is nice: Also, go with the hard wall tires whenever you can.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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1
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},
{
"text": "they cost a little more, but they are more puncture resistant.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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{
"text": "So they will cause you less grief on the road.",
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],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1473/Chris Belsole",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I might suggest you look for a \"touring\" tire, which I expect is made for reliable long distances on roads including rough roads.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "For example I have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, and I like them (e.g. for 30 km/day): they are much stronger than my previous tires, and they resist getting flats.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/ChrisW",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I was looking for something similar to what you are now about six months ago.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I was looking for low rolling resistance, durability and flexibility on a variety of surfaces.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Having used them for this time with one flat caused by a large shard of glass, I'm happy to recommend the 'Panaracer T-Serv PT'.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Details at http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm uncertain as to the availability outside this part of the world, but thought I'd let you know anyway.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Good luck!",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1492/Jasper Mogg",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Knobby treads are really only useful in mud, sand, or snow.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "On roads (even rough ones) they just add extra weight and noise.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Of the tires listed so far, the Bontrager and Panaracer tires look like better choices than the NanoRaptor.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I've heard good things about the Schwalbe Big Apple as well.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1047/jefferee",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "First off, you haven't said what type of bike and size of rim you're riding.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "26\" tires will not fit on a bike with 700c wheels and vice versa.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Also, if you're riding a road bike you probably won't be able to fit anything bigger than a 700x25 or 700x28 on it",
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],
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"text": "and you almost certainly won't be able to get anything with much tread on it.",
"label": [
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],
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"text": "That said, get the largest tire you can get on your frame.",
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"text": "It'll slow you down a bit on the road, but it'll speed you up a lot on the rough patches and smooth out your ride as well.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "As far as the tread goes, I would look for something with a good number of large knobs on it that are fairly close together.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Too much tread",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "and you'll feel it on the road, too little and you'll be slipping around on the pitted and rocky patches.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I don't have experience with this particular tire, but this is what I mean by large knobs that are fairly close together: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hybrid+bicycle+tires&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1024&bih=655&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7981081227657122988&sa=X&ei=gsLoT4WcN-Ps2gXlwOSJCw&ved=0CKoBEPMCMAk4Cg",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4239/jimchristie",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The WTB NanoRaptor (looks like it's now just the \"Nano\") is one of the more popular MTB tires with pavement performance in mind.",
"label": [
1
],
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-1
],
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"text": "It's more off road oriented than the tires that Stopher87 suggests, but still has a nearly continuous center bead that makes it roll smoothly on asphalt.",
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],
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],
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"text": "It may work better for you on loose gravel roads.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Here is the 29er version: http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/29er/nano-29er/",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1166/Russ",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "My tires are worn out so I want to change them. When I am trying to change them, I want them to be to the best fit for the conditions I cycle in. I cycle about 30 km a day on roads ranging from smooth pitched roads to very rough roads consisting of pits and stones in the most haphazard way. Please suggest a type of tire that would be best for me. There do not need to be considerations for snow, it does not snow where I cycle.",
"title": "Which tires are best for on and off road use?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3768",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/847/Starx"
} | 26_1 | [
[
"For riding on and off road what is required is a hybrid tire with not enough tread to be a nuisance and slow you down on the road, but enough tread so that when you go off road you are not losing traction on gravel and mud. The market has a number of such tires available, including Bontrager hybrid tire, Panaracer T-Serv PT and Schwalbe Big Apple",
"Hybrid or touring tyres with a solid wall and close knobbly tyres provide the best compromise between grip and speed. Good brands include Bontrager, Panaracer T-Serv PT, NanoRaptor and the Schwalbe Big Apple."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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[
"Hybrid and touring tyres provide the best compromise between grip and speed. Tyres with a hard wall and close knobbly treads are good.",
"Some examples of good brands include Bontrager, Panaracer T-Serv PT, NanoRaptor and the Schwalbe Big Apple."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My answer to this was old school.",
"label": [
0
],
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{
"text": "I put on tire savers.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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0
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},
{
"text": "This won't work with knobbies, but it will work great with street tires.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "Back in the day, I tried a bunch of things including puncture resistant and kevlar.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": "I have both sew-ups and street tires and it stops the nagging flats from small things that don't puncture on the first pass.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This will give you a picture of them.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1571/Dave",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The reviewer in this article points out that expecting serious puncture resistance from performnce tires is unrealistic to say the least.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "However, the reviewer, a self-described heavier rider, had only one flat in 1000+ miles.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Several of the comments in this review say they've experienced punctures.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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"text": "However, I'm unable to find any durability comparisons with the Pro2.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Just for fun",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": ": Have you checked the tires before changing the tubes?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes a thorn or a sharp piece of glass can be hard to find but still flat the same tube in the same place.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "A rough edge on your rim can also cause pinch flats if your tires are underinflated.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Durability and speed are not mutually exclusive properties, but there is a degree of tradeoff.",
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
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},
{
"text": "If durability is important to you, I'd suggest looking into a set of touring tires.",
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "They'll slow you down a little bit, but you'll get more riding time in.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Unless you bike on some pretty bad roads indeed!)",
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],
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],
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I might have found a reason for your issues.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "I bought pair of Pro3 tires yesterday and I've installed them right away.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "After a short test ride, I noticed that small debris from the road stick to the surface of the tires.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I've read some reviews about Pro3, and several mentioned this as well.",
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0
],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "This stickiness could affect tire durability for even casual riding because sharp pieces stuck in one place have time to work themselves into the tire.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3645/Beat grills",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My experience is similar, thus I am currently testing two other brands.",
"label": [
1
],
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-1
],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I did move from the Michelins to Conti's Grand Prix 4000 S which have a fantastic feel and handle superbly, but did not last or hold as well to even the Michelin P3's, so I have moved on.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I currently have a set of Specialized Turbo PRO's on one bike and a Vredestein Fortezza TriComp on another.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "While it is too early too tell durability, I have not flatted on either set and the road feel and handling is adequate, but not up to par with Michelins or Conti's.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hope this helps.",
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],
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],
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-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1446/GuyZee",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've got the Pro3s",
"label": [
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],
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and I average",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "a flat about every 100 miles.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "They're not cheap either.",
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],
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],
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]
]
},
{
"text": "After I finish off my current supply of them, I'll be trying something a bit more puncture resistant...",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/349/Brian Knoblauch",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Since switching from the Michelin Pro2's to the new Pro3's I've experienced an increase in puncture flats. Nothing has else has really changed in riding style or conditions. The Pro3 ride much nicer. A bit more supple. But I'm tired of flatting. Are these tires particularly prone to flats? Is there anything that can be done to prevent flats with them? If not, are there other similar tires that are more puncture-resistent?",
"title": "Frequent flats with Michelin Pro3's",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><puncture>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3928",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1542/BikeRide134"
} | 26_2 | [
[
"Tire savers are available to prevent tires from puncturing too often. However, tires built for speed tend to be less durable in general. If durability is important, choose a tire appropriately, a touring tire, for example. Moreover, some punctures may be caused by sharp edges on the rim or small items stuck in the tire.",
"Repeated flats can be caused by failure to remove the cause of the first puncture or sharp objects that stick to the tyre and work their way through to the tube. Flats can be avoided by using tyre savers, puncture resistant or kevlar, or switching to a more durable (but possibly slower) tyre."
]
] | {
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"Tyre savers, puncture resistant and kevlar are options to prevent minor flats. For tyres themselves, a compromise between resistance and performance will have to be made, and touring tyres may be a better option than road tyres.",
"Sometimes repeated punctures can come from the same cause that has not been removed, or a sharp object that works its way into the inner tube after sticking to the tyre."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Not sure about filling in hairlines, but I have used Pledge and have been very happy with the results!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1446/GuyZee",
"score": 4
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{
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"text": "Bike Lust is very popular, but I've also heard the Pledge recommendation.",
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"text": "Again, not sure either will fill scratches, but...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/832/Darren Cope",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Your best bet is to look beyond the bike forums and head into the world of cars.",
"label": [
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],
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"text": "I know cars and mountain bikes are slower than the world of cycling, but carbon fibre is now accessible to the motorist.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Some of them polish and polish and polish and polish.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Zaino is well worth a Google...",
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],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
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"score": 1
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"sents": [
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"text": "I was given a can of the FinishLine polish product and think it works really well.",
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"text": "Smells pretty good too!",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3793/Clive van Hilten",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You have two different questions here.",
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"text": "The first one, which is what should you use to clean and polish carbon without damaging it, it what most every one here is answering.",
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"text": "The real answer is, you can use just about anything.",
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"text": "Pledge, Bike Lust, Turtle Wax, Storck's Carbo'Coat Polish .",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "It doesn't matter, as long as there's a wax base, and no abrasives in it.",
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "To fill the fine cracking in your clear coat caused by UV exposure, you do need to go outside the bike industry.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "Use detailing clay, like that made by Meguiar's.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
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"text": "Their Mild Overspray Detailing Clay works very well to remove race stickers, adhesive residue, tree sap, etc.. which you need to do to prepare the surface before using something like their Swirl Remover 2 to remove the surface scratches and cracking.",
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"text": "You can do this with a rag, by hand.",
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"text": "You don't need to use a buffer.",
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"text": "Swirl Remover uses a very fine abrasive effect.",
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-1
],
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"text": "Used badly, it can damage your paint, but if you read and follow the directions, it's like magic.",
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],
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],
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"text": "Just use with care.",
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"text": "DO NOT USE IT ON A MATTE FINISH FRAME.",
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"text": "It will polish up a shine on the matte clear coat, and many UD carbon matte frames don't have much clear coat to begin with.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You could expose the carbon.",
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "meguires quick detail car shine is a fine product.",
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"text": "Also you could wet clay bar to get rid of the small stuck on grime.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3124/Matt Adams",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm looking for a recommendation for a good bike polish for carbon clear coat frames. Something the fills in minor hair line surface scratches and leaves a nice shine.",
"title": "Bike Polish for Carbon Frames",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<product-rec><cleaning>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4025",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1542/BikeRide134"
} | 26_3 | [
[
"Almost any product can be used for polishing a carbon frame, as long as it is wax-based and contains no abrasives.",
"There is a wide range of options, and often the best solution is not marketed for bikes. Furniture or car polish can help, and detailling clay can cover cracks in the paint or residue from stickers and grime."
]
] | {
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"There is a wide range of options, and often the best solution is not marketed for bikes. Furniture or car polish can help, and detailling clay can cover cracks in the paint or residue from stickers and grime."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A torque wrench is needed mostly for lightweight bike parts, especially at the high end.",
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"text": "There are several related causes: with lightweight parts the manufacturer has shaved off everything that is not absolutely essential.",
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"text": "There is no spare strength to allow for overtightening.",
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"text": "things are made very precisely now.",
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"text": "Rather than being able to take a 250kg gorilla, the lightweight bike can take a 120kg human.",
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"text": "And rather than be maintained by a gorilla, you need an actual bike mechanic.",
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"text": "This is partly to save weight, and partly to shave costs.",
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"text": "Why use 1kg of titanium where 500g will do?",
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"text": "Most people do things up until they feel the resistance change.",
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"text": "This slight yeild in steel is non-destructive and can be repeated thousands if not millions of times.",
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"text": "In aluminium you need to be more sensitive because the yeild limit is sharper, but with composites and lightweight metals like titanium and magnesium the change is so fast it might as well not exist.",
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"text": "The torque limits are likely to be tight and precise. to save weight more threads are cut into expensive parts.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Rather than having a semi-captive nut the body of the bike/fork/wheel is threaded.",
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"text": "Stripping it means replacing something expensive.",
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"text": "What this means is that the traditional steel bolt in a steel bike will work well with (say) 15-50Nm of force used to tighten it.",
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"text": "At 15Nm it's only just tight, at 50Nm",
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"text": "it's probably digging into the frame",
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"text": "and it's about to strip.",
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"text": "But a (hollow!) titanium bolt in a carbon/epoxy stem will have a torque range of 5.5-6.4Nm, and the failure mode at the high end will be the stem failing-",
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"text": "either it will strip the thread or the clamp will snap.",
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"text": "And the bolt is built to match - why put in a bolt that will take 10Nm of tightening when the stem will fail at 7Nm?",
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"text": "There are other design changes to match these - four bolt handlebar clams on stems are now commonplace where there used to be one bolt",
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"text": "and you just bent the clamp open then forced the (curved) handlebars through it.",
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"text": "You can't bend an aluminium clamp like that, it will fail.",
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"text": "And splined cranks require a lot more precision than tapered one, but that precision also allows them to be lighter as well as easier to service.",
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"text": "The days of stripped extraction threads in cranks are (hopefully) over.",
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"score": 22
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"sents": [
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"text": "Crank bolts.",
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"text": "They need to be really torqued, but you're always wary of over-torquing, so a torque wrench provides a good confidence factor.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 7
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I bought a torque wrench after writing off a the bottom part of a set of Fox 36's: Those four little bolts at the bottom hold the axle in place, and need to be tightened enough to stop it coming out, but not so much that you stress the clamp.",
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"text": "I'd over-tightened them and apparently the fork legs had tiny cracks.",
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"text": "The replacement legs have a metal shim to prevent over-tightening, and the design is now different - lesson learnt for me and for Fox.",
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"text": "The problem is that no-one buys a torque wrench when they're starting out and could really benefit from one.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1534/Jonathan Sayce",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I love my Torque Wrench.",
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"text": "It takes away the guesswork of being sure you are tight enough.",
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"text": "I picked up one from and off brand that was calibrated in inch/",
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"text": "lbs,",
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"text": "and it wasn't as expensive as the park version.",
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"text": "If you are no pro and working with carbon fiber, you need this tool.",
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1
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1627/Mario",
"score": 4
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I admit I never use one...",
"label": [
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"text": "Still, for certain applications, specific tightening torque is specified.",
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"text": "Things like crank-retaining nuts, quill-stem retaining bolts...",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Crank bolts on models with removable chainrings...",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "That sort of thing.",
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"text": "Some people have a good feel for \"tight enough\", but others may be ham-fisted enough to break or strip fasteners without some reference.",
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1297/M. Werner",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I am with yourself - no need (unless you have a very expensive pro roadbike).",
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"text": "However there are new 'carbon fibre' components that have changed since the good-old-days.",
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"text": "These can have things such as 'helicoil' inserts glued in to them.",
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"text": "In the olden days it was just chainring bolts that were tricky to get right without a torque wrench.",
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"text": "Nowadays you can do up almost every bolt to a torque level specified in the component's manual.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use a torque wrench because I like a little piece of mind, and have unfortunately ruined a few parts by over tightening.",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I have a Wright Tool torque wrench which is perfect.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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1
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},
{
"text": "No complaints and no more broken components.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "You can pick one up for a decent price off ebay.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11406/Matt G",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I was rather surprised to find a question about choosing a torque wrench on this site. I haven't cycled for years, but many years ago when I actually cycled I would do with a set of ordinary wrenches just fine. What bicycle maintenance tasks would require a torque wrench and can't be done with an ordinary wrench?",
"title": "Why would I need a torque wrench for a bicycle?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<maintenance><tools><torque-wrench>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4120",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/628/sharptooth"
} | 26_4 | [
[
"A torque wrench is needed mostly for lightweight bike parts, especially at the high end. There are several reasons for this: with lightweight parts the manufacturer has shaved off everything that is not absolutely essential; there is no spare strength to allow for overtightening; things are made very precisely nowadays. This is partly to save weight, and partly to shave costs. Thus, any excess tightening can cause damage to the bike. On the other hand, you don't have to guess if you have tightened enough or not. The torque wrench avoids these problems.",
"High-end parts are built to be as light as possible with a narrow range of tolerance that may not be clear from feeling the resistance. If this resistance is exceeded, carbon fibre and other materials can break, destroying the whole part. A torque wrench sets the correct torque, provides peace of mind and removes the guesswork."
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"High-end parts are often made as light as they can be, and therefore have less tolerance for overtightening. They are also often made with softer materials with a narrow range of acceptable tightness and more chance of breaking if this is exceeded, without this limit necessarily being clear from the resistance.",
"Most people are not able to judge the correct resistance for a particular part, so a torque wrench takes away the guesswork."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I recommend wearing a helmet and something like a cycling cap or something similar to an Under Armour skull cap that can absorb sweat and protect your head from the sun.",
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"text": "As for your neck, I've always used sunscreen during sunny rides.",
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"text": "Get a bottle that can fit in your saddlebag or backpack, and apply it liberally and as often as necessary.",
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"text": "Sunscreen will protect you from the sun without impeding your ability to move, and it will not be affected by strong winds.",
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"score": 4
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Definitely do something to protect the back of the neck, and your ears (even with a helmet).",
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"text": "The other area that it seems often \"surprises\"",
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"text": "you is the backs of your lower legs (though this may be peculiar to the higher latitudes I frequent).",
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"text": "You of course need a sleeved jersey or sun lotion on your arms, and either knee-length pants or sun lotion on the tops of your thighs.",
"label": [
1
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1
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"text": "[I'll add that I've several times been on tours with a guy who has \"sun allergy\", and he does remarkably well in a full-length Tyvek suit.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "On hot days when you'd expect him to suffocate, he churns merrily along.]",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 2
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Wear sunscreen.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Make sure it has UVA and UVB protection, check the SPF and the UVA star rating (higher numbers means more protection).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "Make sure you apply enough sunscreen and reapply it often enough.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There's some fairly detailed information on sunscreen here that you might find useful.",
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-1
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/Tom77",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Anything wrong with the traditional cycling cap ?",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/699/onestop",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Solar light cap Oasis or Kayak models do well for sun coverage, while additionally providing evening light power (for the touring).",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
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"cluster_id": [
[
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm preparing for a mini tour in the greek islands this August and I'm getting concerned about sun protection. I'm considering not using a helmet (as I'll reach 30 km/h max). Last year I was wearing a \"buff\" that protected me from sweat, but did not protect me from minor sunburn. Would a hat be a solution, but of what type (considering strong winds)?",
"title": "Sun protection while touring",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<touring><health><sun-protection>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4780",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1729/kostas"
} | 26_6 | [
[
"Cycling in sunny climates requires some special protection. Sunscreen is a must on neck, ears and arms and legs if uncovered. A cap of some kind below the helmet to absorb sweat is a good idea, Under Armour skull cap for example. Instead of using sun cream, the arms and legs can be covered with long pants and long-sleeved top. ",
"Wear clothing that covers your skin or sunscreen on exposed areas. Focus on areas ost at risk — head, ears, arms and tops of thighs. Ensure that your sunscreen has a sufficient SPF rating to protect you."
]
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[
"Wear a helmet and clothing that covers your skin — skull cap, long sleeves and pants, full-length Tyvek suit. Focus on head, ears, arms and tops of thighs.",
"Wear sunscreen on exposed skin, ensuring a sufficient SPF rating to protect you."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In my experience, a front rim is symmetrical, and it doesn't matter which direction it's in.",
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1
],
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"text": "Unlike the rear wheel, where there's a drivetrain side and a non-drivetrain side, the only place where the quick-release handle can be.",
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"text": "However, there are some other considerations to keep in mind:",
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"text": "Tires will sometimes have a tread direction .",
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"text": "This is usually marked on the tread itself, in the form of an arrow with \"direction of rotation\" indicated.",
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"text": "If you put a rim on a backwards from how you installed the tire, that could be swapped by mistake.",
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"text": "In addition, it makes sense to have the quick releases for both wheels on the same side.",
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"text": "I make sure when putting a tire on the rim to set it up",
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"text": "so, if both release handles are on the same side, the front tire is in the direction of rotation.",
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"text": "Disc brakes may introduce other considerations; other answers on this page address this.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Outside of that, it mechanically makes no difference what side the quick-release is on.",
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"cluster_id": [
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0
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/Goodbye Stack Exchange",
"score": 42
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Generally the QR lever on the rear tire is on the left, so as to not interfere with the derailer.",
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"text": "It makes (a little) sense to put the QR lever of the front tire on the same side (at least if you have any OCD tendencies).",
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"text": "But it basically doesn't matter, so long as the tire has no preferred rotation direction (and you don't have something like disk brakes that demands a certain orientation).",
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"text": "(And if the tire direction is wrong you can always remove the skewer and insert it from the other side -- the axle itself is perfectly symmetrical.)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 14
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Actually, there can be difference, if you are using disc brakes .",
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"text": "For practical reasons, you should put the release on opposite side to the brake rotor to avoid accidentaly touching it.",
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"text": "First, it may be still hot from braking, when you need to swap the tire, second, your hands can have oil (or your body oil mixed with sweat) on them and that can be bad for the rotor surface and brake pads.",
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"text": "On the road bikes it is considered to be a tradition to put them on the left, non drive side (front and back).",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/421/Papuass",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If I understand the question, I am pretty sure that bicycle tires are heteroflexible , and their orientation, which side, same side, opposite side, does not really matter.",
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1
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1
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[
0
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"text": "However, I have been told it's best to mount them so that the lever itself points to the back of the bicycle, so it does not get trapped in anything and pop open.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1805/Jerry Asher",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I think that it is really important for the logo on the front hub to be the right way up when looking at the bike from the front.",
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"text": "The q-r lever should be on the left because it then does not have any possibility to entangle with the q-r lever of the bike in front.",
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"text": "The lever should also be folder to point upwards in parallel with the fork blade.",
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"text": "The tyre should be pointing in the direction marked forward on the sidewall.",
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"text": "Having one of these points wrong distresses me deeply.",
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"text": "Particularly if the tyre has to be taken off and turned around so it aligns with the logo on the hub.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I have read on a Shimano disc-brake manual that you should leave the skewer to the opposite side of the disc.",
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"text": "That is so because, THEORETICALLY, some skewer levers could be turned beyond their closed position (parallel to the fork blade), and its tip could block the disk, causing a fall.",
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"text": "Practically speaking, I have never seen any skewer, be it in my bike or others', in such a position.",
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"text": "Besides, since Shimano skewer is assymmetrical, it is much harder to get a good position if you mount it on the side opposite to the disc.",
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1
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1
],
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[
1
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{
"text": "As of skewer orientation, I prefer closing it \"upwards\", so the closed lever is parallel to the fork blade, pointing up, with just enough room to wrap the fingers around it, and never too tight.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2355/heltonbiker",
"score": 0
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I was just told by my LBS that both my front tire AND wheel we're on backwards.",
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"text": "My tire (Vredestein Triforzza) has a slight diagonal sipe (but no arrow on the sidewall).",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "My wheel's decal was upside down.",
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{
"text": "I said \"OK, but the wheel is symmetrical so what difference does it make?\".",
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0
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The mechanic said the cones in the hub are designed to rotate in one direction and may loosen over time if the wheel is installed backwards.",
"label": [
1
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-1
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I was experiencing speed wobble.",
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"text": "I hope this fixes it.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6876/Tkr-toad",
"score": 0
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Put the quick release on your stronger arm side based on where you are stood",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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"text": "/sat when you put it up",
"label": [
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"text": "/take it off.",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Then you are more likely to have an easy on/off.",
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0
],
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I change over my car tires due to more wear on one side than the other",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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"text": "but I don't get this as much on the bike.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8987/indofraiser",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "A front wheel with a quick release mechanism can be installed in two orientations: the lever on the left, or the lever on the right. Does it matter in which orientation it's installed? If so, would any problems result from installing it the wrong way?",
"title": "In which orientation should a front wheel be installed?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<wheels><quick-release>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4791",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1804/Adam Rosenfield"
} | 26_7 | [
[
"In general, it does not matter in which firection the tire is fitted. If there is a direction on the sidewall, it should be observed. Apparently, this general does not apply to Shimano tires. However, it makes sense to have the quick releases for both wheels on the same side.",
"The main considerations include the orientation of the tyres and placing the rear lever on the non-drive side. It can be easier to place both levers on the left, which also prevents levers from being entangled with those of other bikes. Where a bike has disc brakes, the lever should be on the opposite side."
]
] | {
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[
"The front wheel is symmetrical, so as long as the tyre is fitted in the correct direction of rotation, the position of the lever does not matter.",
"If you have disc brakes, the release should be on the opposite side to avoid touching it.",
"Other considerations include the possibility of entangling with other riders or placing them on the same side on both wheels. The lever on the rear wheel is usually placed on the non-drive side."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The main reason that the direct pull (V brake) was invented is that it approximates a center-pull cantilever in terms of balanced force and leverage, while not requiring that the cable be anchored at some point above the wheel.",
"label": [
1
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{
"text": "This is important for front wheels on suspension forks, but not significant for most other uses.",
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0
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"text": "Another slight advantage of the V brake is that it doesn't generally protrude out of the profile of the bike quite as much and is thus somewhat less likely to be damaged in off-road use.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Neither advantage is of any importance for a road bike without a suspension fork.",
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},
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"text": "However, there is the problem that the two require different levers (because the cable travel length is different) and the old cantilevered levers are getting hard to find, should you break one.",
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1
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 18
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "...where to begin! So much was wrong with cantilevers and linear-pull came along and made the cycling world a happier place.",
"label": [
0
],
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},
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"text": "This list will grow, but, as I remember, the following things were morally wrong with cantilevers: the front cable often routed via the stem on a pulley hidden inside the stem.",
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1
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"text": "Over time this pulley would fray the cable and the cable would break on the front brake with no external signs of anything wrong.",
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"text": "Unless a reflector bracket or mudguard was in the way, the broken front brake cable would release the stirrup wire to then catch against the front wheel.",
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0
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{
"text": "This would cause an instant straight-over-the-handlebars disaster.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Even in peace-time the arrangement was not too good, the brake adjustment depended on stem height.",
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0
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{
"text": "Some bikes did not use the stem to hold the front brake cable.",
"label": [
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"text": "Instead they used an extra bracket in the headset.",
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"text": "When suspension came along a bracket had to be added to the forks to hold the cable.",
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"text": "The bolt at the end of the cable holding the yoke that connects to the straddle wire was also a bit of a problem.",
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"text": "Typically these were setup crooked.",
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"text": "In use the stirrup could get knocked to one side, compromising the brake balance.",
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"text": "As for the rear brake, the big problem on early models was how they stuck out to catch your heel.",
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"text": "This was solved when Dia-Compe came along with the 986 to replace the 983.",
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"text": "Shimano copied the hi-rise idea shortly thereafter.",
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"text": "Here is a 983:",
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"text": "And here is the 986: We are talking",
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"text": "twenty+ years ago with this 'big change' to the cantilever.",
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"text": "There were many, many iterations to get to the linear-pull brake you have today.",
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"text": "Direct-pull or \"V\" brakes are stronger, easier to set up and maintain, and are usually considered an improved technology.",
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"text": "Well set-up cantis are not bad, however, and the pads do last a long time.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1297/M. Werner",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Difference on canti and v brake's can be affected by your use, which is implied but not explicit in some of the responses.",
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"text": "Canti pull ratio works with the pull ratio of road bikes--",
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"text": "which is why they are used on cross bikes--not because of mud clearance since cross bikes use road brake/shifter levers.",
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"text": "You can use V-brakes with a road brake/shift lever but",
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"text": "it requires the use of a travel agent to alter the cable pull from the cant ratio to the V brake ratio.",
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"text": "These can be complicated to install, don't always work well, and can become fouled in the mud of cyclocross.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I believe one pro of canti's are that they tend to have more mud clearance.",
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"text": "I think that is one of the reasons that cyclocross bikes run them, at least until they started allowing discs.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Looking over all the very good answers I noticed one important omission.",
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"text": "That is: inherent in the setup of most(*) front cantilever brakes is the potential for horrendous brake shudder.",
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"text": "(I recently changed from cantilever to v-brakes on a road tandem just for this very reason, and it was very effective!)",
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"text": "Lennard Zinn explains the mechanics of it here: Brake shudder is widespread because it’s built into the design of almost all ’cross bikes; it’s inherent to the design of a center-pull cantilever brake.",
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"text": "To understand the reason why it happens and why reduced pad size, lots of toe-in, and a tight headset help take a look at the chart titled “Brake Shudder in cantilever brakes.”",
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"text": "As the brake is applied, the ground applies a force directed backward on the tire as shown, causing the fork to flex backward.",
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"text": "Problem is, the brake cable is fixed at one end at the brake caliper and at the other end at the cable stop above the headset (as you can see in my case, at a cable hanger attached to a bolt on the stem face plate).",
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"text": "Think “bow and arrow” and imagine the fork between the cantilever bosses and the top of the headset is like the bow, and the cable is like the string.",
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"text": "As the fork flexes back due to braking, the cable tightens like the string in the bow, because its two ends – the cable hanger and the brake calipers, have moved further apart.",
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"text": "So even though you may have pulled the brake lever carefully enough to modulate it properly, as soon as the pad slows the wheel down,",
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"text": "the fork flexes back and tightens the cable, which in turn pulls the pads harder against the rim.",
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"text": "This in turn flexes the fork back further, which tightens the cable more, which pulls the pads harder against the rim, and so on.",
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"text": "Eventually, something has to give: Either the tire must slip on the ground, the rider must go over the handlebars, or the pads must break free from the rim.",
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"text": "It is the latter that creates the shudder, the pads bind and release, bind and release, each time allowing the fork to flex back and forth and the tire to roll and stop, roll and stop.",
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"text": "This is why the problem goes away in mud and wet sand, because the pad can break free smoothly.",
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"text": "It is also why smaller pads with more toe-in help.",
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"text": "Read more at http://www.velonews.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807#pihaQukm0PBYREp7.99",
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"text": "(*) mounting the cable stop to forks instead of the headset will solve this problem.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18785/Craig Hicks",
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] | {
"question": "I am looking around for an old mountain bike to ride this winter (and this summer when it is wet). I was just browsing around and was curious what the difference was between Direct pull brakes: And Center-pull Cantilevers: Sheldon Brown has a good description of both kinds of brakes but he does not give pros and cons. Or suggest which are better.",
"title": "Direct Pull (V-Brake) vs. Center Pull Cantilevers (pros and cons)",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><rim-brake>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4863",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/134/sixtyfootersdude"
} | 26_8 | [
[
"The advantages of the direct pul brake are mainly experienced in off-road riding. For on-road use, there is little difference in performance of the direct pull and cantilever brakes. Direct-pull or \"V\" brakes are stronger, easier to set up and maintain, and are usually considered an improved technology. However, cantilever brake have more mud clearnce and the pads tend to last a long time.",
"The difference is generally minor, although V-brakes are stronger and do not require the cable to be set up above the wheel. Canti brakes are more liable to be pulled out of position in off-road use, which is less relevant for road users without suspension. Canti brakes have more mud clearance, but are more liable to cause brake shudder."
]
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[
"The difference is generally minor, although V-brakes are stronger and do not require the cable to be set up above the wheel. Canti brakes are more liable to be pulled out of position in off-road use, which is less relevant for road users without suspension.",
"Canti brakes have more mud clearance, but are more liable to cause brake shudder."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Not a stupid question.",
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"text": "The simple answer is that they are throwing every ounce of leverage, weight, and power into the pedals and that much movement side to side is the visible result of trying that hard to move forward.",
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"text": "If you could stay absolutely still, and input the same amount of force to the pedal, then more of that energy would go to moving forward, but you can't.",
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"text": "It's a matter of balance and leverage.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "They quite simply must sway the bike back and forth because of the mechanical reality of the situation.",
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"text": "It's not even really a conscious act — if the rider didn't do this, the bike would fall out from under them.",
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"text": "These riders are applying extreme power to each pedal.",
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"text": "Since the pedals are not centered laterally, applying a large force to the right pedal (for instance) will, physically speaking, apply a rotational force that pushes the top of the bike to the right and the bottom of the bike to the left.",
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"text": "Without this counterbalancing motion, they would quite literally kick the wheel to the side out from under them.",
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"text": "By swaying the bike in the opposite direction, they increase the amount of force that can be applied to the pedals without crashing.",
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"text": "Luckily, it's an intuitive motion that happens completely automatically to any rider in that situation.",
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"text": "For a quick mental picture, imagine somebody swaying in the same direction as the pedal being pushed.",
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"text": "For instance, somebody leaning the bike to the right while they apply a large force to the right pedal.",
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"text": "The rotational force would rotate the bicycle clockwise, lifting the wheel off the ground.",
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"text": "Not something you want to happen, especially at sprinting speeds.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1442/Stephen Touset",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've (anecdotally) noticed this effect is much more pronounced on road bikes with drop bars than other styles of bikes.",
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"text": "It is quite difficult to prevent on a road bike when standing and pedaling hard; although it has little impact on performance or speed.",
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"text": "In my opinion the wobble is mostly a side-effect of holding tightly to the bars while standing and pedaling.",
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"text": "When you're really crushing the pedals you use your arms to essentially pull yourself down onto the bike and to maximize power to the pedals (if you weren't holding on firmly you would be lifting yourself above the bike rather than pushing the pedals around).",
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"text": "When pushing the pedals and pulling the handlebars it's quite difficult to prevent the bars from being turned slightly side-to-side, which results in part of the wobble.",
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"text": "Add to that most of your body weight being rocked from side to side and the bike begins to get that lean effect.",
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"text": "Overall it is quite difficult to prevent, and preventing the wobble would likely cost more in terms of speed than just compensating for it.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1373/STW",
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"sents": [
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"text": "When I first began to bunch ride with the boys we would have a sprint here and there.",
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"text": "I would hold the handlebars firmly so that the bike was as stable as possible.",
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"text": "One of the guys pointed out that this actually takes effort on my part and wastes energy.",
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"text": "Also the wobbling is designed to occur such that the downstroke on the pedal occurs when that pedal is directly under the rider and hence delivers the maximum power to the stroke.",
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"text": "@STW has the right idea, but I think it's worth noting that to the extent possible, you're trying to hold your upper body still, and (especially when sprinting)",
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"text": "you \"wobble\" the bike under you to maximize power.",
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"text": "In other words, most of the \"wobbling\" involved is less of an accidental side effect than something they actually work at.",
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"text": "Conversely, when you see somebody whose upper body is moving a lot, while the bike stays relatively upright, it's a pretty good sign that they're running out of energy.",
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"text": "There are some other (also intentional) reasons as well.",
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"text": "First, working your way through a tight peloton can be tough, especially close to the finish.",
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"text": "Most of the riders are staying as close together as they can to get maximum drafting.",
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"text": "Worse, unless they happen to be your team-mate, the people right next to you will often try to \"squeeze\" you to intimidate you enough to slow you down a tiny bit.",
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"text": "Here you're literally \"throwing your weight around\" to make it harder for others to squeeze you in.",
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"text": "Likewise, the \"smoother\" you ride, the easier it is for somebody to draft off of you.",
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"text": "The more you're moving sideways, the harder it is for them to get/stay in your draft.",
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"text": "Earlier in a race (like in a breakaway)",
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"text": "you'll see people do relatively quick sideways movements of the bike to help drop people drafting off of them.",
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"text": "In the final sprint, you usually can't afford to do that, but you're still doing the best you can to make drafting difficult, as long as you don't slow your self down (much) in the process.",
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"text": "Finally, if you're riding smoothly, it's fairly easy for somebody to stay close beside you and stay in your draft almost until they're in front of you.",
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"text": "By moving around as much as possible, you force them to pull farther to the side before they can pass safely, which means they lose your draft and have to do more of their own work to pass.",
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}
] | {
"question": "In all pro-cycling races, they start wobbling towards the finish line instead of biking steadily (e.g., in this video: http://youtu.be/wJE69beIIoI ). Why do they do that? Note: I have no experience with racing or a bike with handles curved to the front, so maybe a stupid question.",
"title": "Why do racing cyclists wobble when furiously pedalling?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<racing><technique>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5050",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 26_9 | [
[
"There are generally two reasons why cyclists wobble when pedalling furiously. The first, accidental and unconscious, is a result of the energy being input into the pedals. The second, however, is a conscious effort to stop other riders from passing them or riding intheir drift: it is easier to pass a cyclist rising smoothly than one wobbling madly.",
"This can be a natural consequence of the strong and unbalanced forces involved in sprinting. The benefit of reducing this would be too minor, while costing riders some of their speed. This can also be a deliberate action that maximises the force on the pedal at each stroke, or makes it more difficult for riders behind to draft or overtake."
]
] | {
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[
"Sprinting cyclists are putting all of their energy into pedaling, and this naturally causes swaying due to the unbalanced forced involved. Reducing this would be difficult and not save enough energy to be worth it.",
"Wobbling is actually a way to maximise power to the pedals on each stroke, and is a deliberate skill.",
"This erratic movement takes up space and makes it more difficult for riders behind you to draft or overtake."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Clean them.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'd avoid using any sort of solvent, as it would be bad for the pads and might simply make things worse.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Scrub pads and rims with a dab of detergent on a rag, then hose down to remove the detergent.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Reattach noodle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(I always forget that part.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The brakes will likely still be a bit \"slippery\", but riding with the brakes partially engaged for a minute or two should bring things back to normal.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Loosen the V-brakes, so you can access the pads (you can even remove them and clean each individually).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Then apply degreaser to them (there are many types",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": ", I end up by using a citrus-type or in some more radical cases even use petroleum on the rim, but make sure you clean it with a rug afterwards!).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "NOTE :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "using a solvent or petroleum can damage some parts of your bike, so make sure you test it first and definitely don't use it on rubber!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Do the same to the rim.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Clean it very well with a rug and check if there is any trace of grease, if it has, try to degrease it further.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When everything is ok, just reassemble the brakes and test it, if you did everything correctly then it should work ok!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1280/jackJoe",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You should take the opportunity to give your wheels and brake pads a good clean.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "A bucket of hot water with half a tablet of clothes washing powder and whatever brush you can find will do the job nicely.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wash off with more water and the accumulated dirt on your rims plus the lube will be gone.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My recommendation is to use a rag and de-greaser like Simple Green.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Apply the solution to your rag, wet pads let the liquid do its thing and wipe clean/dry.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If that does not work, repeat.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If after doing that twice you are not getting the appropriate braking power, I would gently sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1446/GuyZee",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "V-brake pads are rubber.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Degreaser can (but not always does) damage rubber.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "use isopropyl alcohol.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "It will remove the grease without damaging the rubber pads.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It may take multiple applications.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Clean the rims with it as well.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Quoting from Daniel's answer, with edits:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Scrub pads and rims with a isopropyl alcohol on a rag.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It will evaporate.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Repeat as required.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If more is required, sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Reattach noodle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Everybody always forgets that part.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hope that helps.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'd use Simple Green or a similar mild degreaser followed by denatured alcohol to eliminate any residue.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Make sure and thoroughly rinse Simple Green off your rims and pads using water, it makes the brakes grabby, loud, and yet ineffective if you leave it on.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You could also lightly sand the brake pads to get rid of the contamination.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/15761/Eric",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I accidentally got lube on my rear brake (v-brake) and my stopping power seems diminished. What is the best way to get it off the brake pads and the rims?",
"title": "Removing lubricant from the rear brake and rim?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><lubricant>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5176",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/6/carl"
} | 26_10 | [
[
"Brake pads and rims can be cleaned with Simple Green and a cloth, isopropyl alcohol or washing detergent. Solvents should not be used as they may cause damage. The brake pads can also be lightly sanded to remove contamination.",
"Strong solvents or petroleum can damage parts, especially rubber. Undo noodle to access the pads, clean pads and rims with simple green or another mild degreaser or detergent on the rims, then eliminate residue with denatured alcohol. Light sanding can also remove some residue."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"Strong solvents or petroleum can damage parts, especially rubber, so clean with simple green or another mild degreaser or detergent on the rims, then eliminate residue with denatured alcohol.",
"Undo the noodle to access the pads, then clean pads and rims before hosing down or clearing with denatured alcohol. Light sanding can also clear contamination."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Unless you have a Victorian ladies style frame, crossing your leg in front of you is a fine way to crash.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2358/cmannett85",
"score": 14
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "While I strongly recommend coming to a complete stop , I would think that standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over would be safer.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the cross-in-front alternative, your pedal foot is stuck behind the leg that hits the ground",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "and I would expect there to be a significant risk of getting tangled up while in this 'grapevine' position and tripping.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/213/Gary.Ray",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I agree with previous answers, cross the leg behind you.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "But, if there is a reason for which you prefer to do it crossing the leg in front of you, in the final dismount movement, I recommend to hop out of the saddle and land with both feet on the ground more or less at the same time but with one in front of the other (Preferably the one that crossed from the other side should be in front).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "This maneuver should allow you to quickly star the run or walk prior to the complete stop.",
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0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2177/Jahaziel",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Moving the leg around behind you is better because after it's around, you can put it on the ground without crossing your legs.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In other words, suppose you keep your left foot in the pedal.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you bring your right foot over the front, then put it on the ground, with your left foot still in the pedal and the bike still moving slowly, it tends to twist your body around to the left",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "so you're facing backward.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you bring your right foot over the back, it's in a natural position for you to start running alongside the bike in motion.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Also, it's easier to bring your leg over the back because you don't have to bend your knee so much.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2102/xpda",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It really depends on what type of riding you are doing and whether or not you have clipless pedals.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you are a cyclocross racer, the left foot remains in the pedal, and the right foot swings over the back wheel, then threads between the left foot and the frame to step on the ground.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This fast, but tricky dismount is explained in this video from a former cyclocross national champion.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some triathletes use a similar technique.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "If you do not have clipless pedals or your left foot is resting on top of your shoes, you can swing the right foot over the back wheel, position just behind the left foot, and then hop of the bike to land on your right foot.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1,
3
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},
{
"text": "The safest thing to do, however, is to stop and dismount.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1953/Jeff Bloom",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "When doing a rolling dismount, one foot stays on its pedal, the other has to cross over somehow. Would you suggest crossing over in front of you (while sitting, folding you knee to allow the cross-over) or behind you (standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over. Note: I don't mean to know which you prefer, rather which is safer/easier/quicker than the other, and why.",
"title": "Rolling dismount: leg crosses over in front of you or behind?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<technique>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5979",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2360/Shawn"
} | 26_11 | [
[
"For a rolling dismount, unless you have a ladies bike without a bar, the leg must be crossed behind or your leg will hit the bar and you will either fall over or crash. Moreover, it is much safer to stop and dismount correctly.",
"While different types of bike and riding styles can change the preferred moving dismount, bringing your right leg over the back and landing just behing the left is usually the most natural way to transition to running, and avoids tripping or twisting on landing. It is safer to stop first though."
]
] | {
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[
"Crossing in front is more dangerous unless you have a step-through frame. Crossing behind reduces the likelihood of tripping or twisting on landing.",
"If you bring your right leg over the back and behind the left foot, it is in a good position for you to start running beside the bike.",
"It is safer to come to a stop first.",
"While different types of bike and riding styles can change the preferred moving dismount, bringing your right leg behind the bike and is usually the most natural."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Trueing a wheel is something you can do on your own, but until you get good at it",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "it'll take you time to do it right - \"carefully tighten the spokes on the opposite side...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "\" is kind of an oversimplification.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Typically a trueing stand is used; the wheel is placed in the stand and prongs or arms on the stand",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "determine exactly where the wheel is out of true.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "The problem is that sometimes you need to loosen some spokes to get enough play to pull back against the deformation enough to straighten it out.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Someone who does it all day makes it look easy - you bring your wheel in to a good bike shop and usually it takes longer for you to describe the pothole you whacked into than to actually true the wheel.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you've got a good relationship with them they may not even charge you for a 10 second job (karma would demand an offering of beer or pizza as appropriate).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you don't have a trueing stand",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "but you're feeling adventurous you could try doing it with the wheel in the frame - stand behind / in front of the wheel",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "(so you're looking at the tread) and spin the wheel slowly - you should see where it comes out of true.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use an actual spoke wrench - if you use pliers you can round the ends of the spoke over and if you use a wrench you'll put too much torque on it",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "(I have a friend who has done it with a leatherman in the middle of a ride",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "but he also repaired and managed a bicycle store for many years).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Since it's an inexpensive wheel if you're confident enough in your abilities I'd say go for it - worst case",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "is you end up replacing the rim, but you may learn a new skill in t he process.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2362/lawndartcatcher",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can attempt it yourself, or get it done at a bike shop.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "I'm not sure what bike shops charge these days for truing, but it's probably less than half of what a new inexpensive wheel would cost (though you may be able to get a used wheel cheaper).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "If you have moderate mechanical abilities you can attempt it yourself.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The important thing is to get the RIGHT spoke wrench for the spoke nipples, and get a good quality one.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "And if the nipples are at all corroded, be prepared to \"break free\" a nipple with Vice Grips before you end up rounding off the nipple with the spoke wrench.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(If you round off a nipple they can be replaced, but it's a minor PITA.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(If the nipples are badly corroded give the screw threads of each a shot of Liquid Wrench before you begin, being careful to not let the stuff dribble down into the tire.)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "Truing a wheel is mainly a matter of THINKING about which way each spoke pulls.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "And you may need to loosen some and tighten others (though you should probably tighten more than you loosen overall).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As other contributors have noted, this is DiY with a spoke wrench.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Spoke wrenches come in different sizes, take the wheel into a shop so you can get the right wrench.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Deflate the tyre somewhat before you begin as a hard tyre can puncture if making spoke adjustments.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As for the truing process, I have to recommend Ken Kifer's guide because he wrote lots of great stuff and this article serves as an intro to his site: http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you do want to get a new back wheel there is the small matter of the sprockets that will need changing over.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Get the shop to do this for you when you buy the wheel as you don't want to be buying special tools for something the bike shop guys do every day.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also expect a 24\" wheel to be special order, but not that expensive if you do get a basic steel hub",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "/alloy rim model.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had exactly the same problem a week ago.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My son had a minor crash and the front wheel was slightly buckled.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Brought the bike to bike shop to see if they could fix it and",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "they said no - and to get a new wheel - cost ~ €40 thank you very much.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Mind you, it's an old crappy bike",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so not that surprised that they said no.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My solution - looked around for second hand bike which we got for less than the price of new wheel!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/402/Catch22",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Of course they can!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It's easy enough and much cheaper to do it yourself with a spoke key.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2358/cmannett85",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My solution was to replace the wheel with an undamaged one salvaged from another cheap bike, because the wheel was too damaged to repair.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "A tree fell on my cruiser bike and bent the coaster brake rear rim irrepairably.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I looked online and found a new one for about 60 dollars plus shipping.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So I looked around on the local swap and shop forums and saw a few bikes for around the same price.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "But yesterday I found a cheap old cruiser bike at a thrift store that also had a lot of other usable parts as well as two fairly true rims with good tires.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46061/Tim",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "My son has a relatively cheap kids mountain bike, no suspension or anything flash, and after a minor crash into a friend the back wheel is slightly out of true. It only causes issues under braking when the warped area of the wheel leads to stuttering braking, and locking up entirely when the brakes are pulled hard. My gut feel is that I should just throw it and get a new one, as I don't know how repairable these things are. Can bike shops repair that sort of thing?",
"title": "For a slightly warped wheel, is it worth getting it repaired?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<repair>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6121",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2077/Rory Alsop"
} | 26_12 | [
[
"It is probably a good idea to attempt to fix a slightly warped wheel. A bike shop may also do it for a reasonable price and cheaper than a new wheel. A spoke wrench is required to do it yourself and you would need to take the wheel to the shop to get the right size. Another solution would be to replace the wheel with an undamaged one salvaged from another cheap bike, if the wheel is too damaged to repair. ",
"This is a job you can do yourself with some skill, or a shop may not charge much. You could try doing it and bring it to a shop if you fail, or just replace the wheel with one from another bike. Make sure you use the proper tools with the correct size, and deflate the tube beforehand to prevent flats. "
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
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} | [
5
] | [
[
"You can take it to a shop or try doing it yourself with a proper spoke key. It is not expensive at a bike shop, but doing it yourself can teach you new skills. If you fail, you can just take it to the shop or throw it out.",
"Make sure you use a proper spoke wrench with the correct size, release the nipples and deflate the tube first.",
"It may be easiest to get a replacement wheel from a different bike."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's my solution.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Take off wheels, pedals, and handlebars, and place the bike under the bed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Ok, that may not be the right solution, but it might point you in the right direction.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you start taking parts off your bike, you can fit it in a pretty small place.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might even want to consider taking parts off and storing everything",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "but the frame inside your apartment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Take out the bottom bracket and leave that in the house.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wheels can be easily stored inside.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The seat/seat post is dead easy to remove and can be stored just about anywhere.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Basically you should store as much inside as you can.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee",
"score": 25
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Wrapping with plastic for a season will result in trapping moisture, instead of keeping it out.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Moisture will penetrate unless you do something extreme like vacuum-sealing (which isn't practical in this case).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You're better off making sure the bike is well-covered to keep off precipitation, but can also breathe to allow excess moisture to evaporate.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "GuyZee's tips are good.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'd inspect the bike once a month to ensure it doesn't need extra grease and there's no rust or moisture build-up.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, if the balcony is accessible from the ground in any manner, you're giving bike thieves the advantage of time.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2437/Hemm",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here a few other considerations: Make sure bike is 100% dry Yes oil chain and all other gears, bearings etc...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If bike is steel, oil or repaint any exposed metal",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "If bike steel, add nice layer of car wax and buff",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "If bike is carbon, polish with Lemon fresh wood furniture polish",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "If saddle is leather polish'er up with some mink oil or other leather",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "conditioner Oil/Lube each spoke at the nipple Lift bike so it is not resting on its tires Assuming plastic is draping, but make sure tied down so it does not blow away!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hope that helps...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "if I think of any others I'll lyk!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1446/GuyZee",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "No need to do anything extra special.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just keep it dry, mostly, and it doesn't hurt to hang it so the weight is off the tires.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In the case of \"sorta outside storage\", if you cover it be sure that air can circulate under the cover to keep it dry -- don't wrap too tightly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "And be wary of placing the bike in a location (eg, near a bathroom exhaust fan) where humidity from inside will come out and condense on it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wouldn't take the tires off --",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "more apt to damage the bike than with them on.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "But it doesn't hurt to take the seat inside",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "(something mice might gnaw on).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would purchase a commercial bike cover (available from plenty of places) and use that to keep the bike protected.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Before putting it in storage I would use an oily rag to go over the allen key bolts, e.g. in the stem.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "No more than that is really needed, cleaning the bike up will remove that protective layer of dirt and grime that has built up.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "To better look after the tyres you may want to put the bike upside down, taking care that the shifters and seat don't get scuffed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/ʍǝɥʇɐɯ",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Consider using a Yardstash product instead of a bike cover.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Provides better protection than just wrapping in a tarp or plastic.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can purchase directly from www.yardstash.com .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3078/Jim Stephens",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You have three risk factors - snow, condensing moisture and tires going flat.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The solution is to hang the bike and cover it from above so that it is vented from beneath.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hanging will require anything looking like two anchors and some reliable rope.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Covering can be made of any strong water-resistant material.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Well-vented bike covered from snow and hanging will be protected.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/628/sharptooth",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The other side of the coin is what to do in the spring.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'd say: get all the grease off and re-oil/grease everything pump tires up and check after a few days",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "maybe inspect tubes look for new rust around cable glands etc.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(when regreasing) pull seriously hard on brake levers before you need to clean rims a good test ride before you rely on it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm sure there's plenty to add to this list, you might even take a look at an old answer about restoring neglected bikes for tips, even though you're doing what you can to take care of it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Almost dismounting the whole bike is way too much work...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "other options would be much cheaper on your time or - if the bike not too expensive - just leave it outside, protect the cables entry points to prevent water and rotate the wheels 45deg every couple weeks.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23587/denis",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "$11 Alternative-",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Lube the chain before storage.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Completely wrap and tape shut with some desiccant inside.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
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"text": "Seal it completely.",
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"text": "Low moisture should mean little rusting.",
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"text": "Hang it to prevent damage to the tires.",
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"text": "Home depot sells 10ft square painter's plastic sheets and desiccant for about $3 and $7.50 respectively.",
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"text": "This desiccant requires something like a double boiler to store the desiccant in.",
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"text": "It absorbs moisture and drips into the lower container.",
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"text": "You can make this with old stackable tupperwear containers or buy it at the Home Depot for a few more dollars.",
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"text": "Free Alternative-Wrap it completely and forget about it until the spring.",
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"text": "It'll be just fine!",
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"text": "That's what I'd be doing!",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7541/Jame Plandit",
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] | {
"question": "Okay. I have a bike which I would like to store for around six moths. Winter temperatures can be as low as -30 C. The problem is that I do not have an indoor storage space, so it is going to reside on a balcony. We also have lots of snow. So, my plan is: 1. Inflate tires to max 2. Greasing 3. Wrap bike in plastic wrap. Any suggestions?",
"title": "How to store bicycles outside during winter",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<winter><storage>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6181",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2435/user194076"
} | 26_14 | [
[
"If a bike is to be stored during winter, as much as possible should be stored inside. If it is to be left outside, firstly the parts should be lubricated. It should be covered with waterproof covering to keep it dry but with some ventilation to stop excess moisture from being trapped. Hanging the bike or storing it upside down keeps the weight off the tires and stops them going flat. It is advisable to check the bike once a month or so for issues. ",
"Removing parts of the bike protects those parts and allows the bike to be stored in a smaller space. The bike should be covered from the elements, allowing air circulation from beneath, and the wheels can be protected by hanging or periodical rotation. Protect steel with oil or car wax, carbon with furniture polish and leather seats with mink oil or other leather polish. Don't overclean. Lube chain before storage and inspect bike periodically. "
]
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"If you take parts off your bike, it can fit in a smaller space and those parts are protected from the elements. ",
"Covering it with a bike cover or waterproof cover can stop rain and snow from getting to it. Allow air to circulate from underneath and consider hanging it or rotating the wheels periodically to protect them. Don't store in a humid area. Be aware of thieves!",
"Protect steel with oil or car wax, carbon with furniture polish and leather seats with mink oil or other leather polish. Don't overclean. Lube chain before storage and inspect bike periodically. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Well, to answer this, there are a couple things to consider.",
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"text": "1)",
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"text": "What are the hours or operation of the bike shops?",
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"text": "Do you plan to ride when the shops aren't open.",
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"text": "2) Are you sure that all the bike shops will always have your tube size in stock.",
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"text": "Seriously, you think they would always have 700x32 in stock, but I've had it happen enough times that it's annoying.",
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"text": "Not to mention the number of times I've settle for using presta when I'm really supposed to be using schraders.",
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"text": "3) How far do you really want to walk, and what is the penalty for being late?",
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"text": "Walking 800 m (1/2 mile) could take around 10 minutes.",
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"text": "In that time you could have already changed the tire.",
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"text": "Do you lose pay when you get to work late?",
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"text": "If this happens too much will you be seen as unreliable, and get your shifts cut? 4)",
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"text": "How much does a patch kit or extra tube and a frame pump really slow you down?",
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"text": "A patch kit can easily be stored in those bags that go under your saddle, or in your jersey pocket.",
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"text": "A pump can be mounted on the frame, and you probably won't even realize it's there.",
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"text": "Personally, I don't think there's much reason not to carry a pump and spare tube.",
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"text": "Although it does seem useless at this point.",
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"text": "I ran over a broken beer bottle on the weekend and heard and felt the glass crush underneath my tires.",
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"text": "Thanks to gatorskins and tuffy tape, I didn't even have a flat.",
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"text": "I seriously question why I should bother.",
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"text": "But then 3 months ago I had a valve fail.",
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"text": "It's almost never the case that I get a flat from an actual puncture, but usually from pinch flats or other unexpected things.",
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"text": "I don't think I've ever had to use my allen keys on my commute, but I still carry them.",
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"text": "That being said, the day you have to walk a mile because you didn't want to carry something as small as a tube and pump is the day you're going to rethink why you don't carry one.",
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"text": "There is no unique right answer to this, but I can put it two ways: The way you described (very low puncture risk, good external infrastructure), if it bothers me, I wouldn't carry anything but a good extra tube and a pump.",
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"text": "If it is not an absolute \"bother\", I would feel WAY more carefree if I did pack a patch-kit.",
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"text": "The second option allows you to change your mind if you want to stray away from your usual route, say, to ride longer, to go to a friend's house, or whatever.",
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"text": "Also, if you don't carry your kit everyday, chances are you will forget it at home when you go out for a non-commuting ride.",
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"text": "Now for the extreme opposite, I definitely would not recommend riding without a spare tube and a pump, EVER!",
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"text": "(But that's also a matter of choice.)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Think how fortunate you would feel to be able to help a fellow cyclist who happened to get his /her second flat of the morning by handing them a patch to help them on their way.",
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"text": "I believe what goes around comes around, maybe they would help you while walking the 1/2 mile to you bike shop to fix your bike.",
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"text": "Sometimes it is worth taking a just in case item for the circumstance that you just can't predict.",
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"text": "Most of us ride for the enjoyment and a few ounces won't really impact that.",
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"text": "I don't bother to carry a patch kit or any tools on short-distance commutes.",
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"text": "My rule is that if I could walk home in a pinch, I don't need that stuff.",
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"text": "FWIW, I've had more instances of running out of spares due to multiple flats on long-distance rides than I've had instances of walking home because of a single flat on in-town rides.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You have to decide the best balance between The disadvantages of carrying a tube, pump and levers and",
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"text": "The disadvantages of being stranded with a flat tyre.",
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"text": "Seriously, that's all it comes down to.",
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"text": "Think about what you'll do if you get a flat anywhere along your commute and how much of an inconvenience it is.",
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"text": "Then compare that to the inconvenience you experience from carrying spares and fixing a flat on the road.",
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] | {
"question": "I'm cycling for urban commute, on well-maintained roads and bike paths, Vittoria Randonneur \"puncture resistant\" tires, and at no point on my ride am I more than 1/2 mile (usually within 1/4, I bet) from a bike shop. I also presume that I'll never be without a wallet and cell phone and am in a city with good public transport. Given that, is there really a reason to bother carrying a patch kit or extra tube with me?",
"title": "Is a tire patch kit really necessary for urban commute?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><commuter><repair>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6215",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2288/Larry Gritz"
} | 26_15 | [
[
"Most people consider carrying a patch kit a sensible precaution. It is a light, easy to carry item that will save time and inconvenience in the event of a puncture. Some cyclists, however, do not carry this item when they are only going short distances and they could walk home if they had to.",
"Consider the inconvenience of having a puncture on your commute without a kit, and the possibility that the bike shops will be closed or not have the right part. While it may be easier to push the bike on short commutes, a patch kit is small and light and provides peace of mind at a low cost."
]
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"A simple patch kit is small and lightweight, and provides peace of mind. However, for small commutes it may not be a problem to walk if you have bike prolems.",
"Consider the inconvenience of having a puncture on your commute without a kit, and the possibility that the bike shops will be closed or not have the right part. You may also be able to help other cyclists in similar situations."
]
] |