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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are a few possibilities but its fairly easy to isolate the likely problem.",
"label": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Unclip",
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],
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the noodle (where the cable comes out) and check if the problem is in the V brakes or the cable.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If its the V brakes, it could be a broken spring, or the brakes need oiling.",
"label": [
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],
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1
],
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[
0
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},
{
"text": "If the brakes are free to move and spring back firmly, its likely a problem with the cable or the brake lever.",
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],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "Without pulling the cable out of the housings, slide the cable back and forward - it should be free to move.",
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],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "If not, check the brake lever is free, or it could be a corroded or kinked cable.",
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],
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{
"text": "If its the cable, a replace is only a few dollars and is the best option (I almost always put in new outers as well).",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "You can try adding some lube to the cable and working it, its usually successful but never as good as new cables.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "If the cable is kinked, you may have luck straightening it, but again, a new cable is always a better option.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Daniel's comment is right, in addition check the brake lever for stiffness.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "You should be able to undo the noodle from the noodle-holder, the brake arms should extend out to the sides, and each should have about the same hand-pressure required to close up.",
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],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "There should be a \"tension\" adjust screw in the base of each arm, although I have bikes with just one and another bike with none.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Each brake arm has a spring which can normally slot into one of three positions too.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It could be one of your springs has got really weak",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": ", they don't tend to get stronger with age.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Its a lot of trial and error and tweaking.",
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],
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another crude (but often effective) hack / adjustment for older or ineffectual springs is as follows: the springs - which are essentially just a long piece of heavy gauge wire that gets tucked behind a protruding peg to hold them in place - can be \"untucked\" (for lack of a better technical term) and then you can manually bend them out slightly by using a screwdriver, e.g. behind the curvature of the spring arm, for leverage.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "This is an admittedly rather crude but",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "yet still often very effective \"hack\" to bring them back to life, provided you don't overdo it to the point of causing more harm than good.",
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},
{
"text": "This would be a hack to employ after other more \"proper\" ways of adjustment (e.g. tension screws or what not) have been attempted first.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29861/Steve Harrington",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had a similar problem in the front brake of a Schwinn Loop folding bike, but the arm wasn't moving at all.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It seems like it's all rusted inside, because I couldn't even take it off even after soaking it in WD-40.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I did manage to move it a bit side to side, but with a lot of force.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I'll try heat from a hairdryer in a couple of days when the new brakes arrive.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "But if it's stuck like that, you might need to change the brakes.",
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],
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-1
],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/44060/Sebastian",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had one of my v-brake arm sticking to the wheel this morning; I wanted to get to work on my bike",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "so this is what I did: Remove the arm, plunge the base for 5-10 min in ultrasonic bath with degreaser solution (if you don't have one, just immerse it while moving the spring hub).",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "On the spring side, drip WD-40 on the hub while moving it until it comes out clear on the other end.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Note that on top of cleaning it WD-40 also removes the water contained in the degreaser solution so it does not rust afterward (hint: WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula...)",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "At this point the hub should move with very little resistance.",
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],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Wipe off and put thick oil on the hub while moving it so it penetrates.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Reinstall and adjust screws to get even tension on both arms.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "NB: I did not even bother removing the pad, I only immersed the bottom end with the moving base.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Just try not to put any oil on the pad as it'll weaken it.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14482/Thomas Guyot-Sionnest",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have a folding bike with v-brakes and I noticed that when I pull on the rear brake lever, one arm of the v-brake doesn't go back to its original position. I tried adjusting the screws but it still doesn't go back. Although I'm not entirely sure if, when it stays in place, it hits the rim. What could be the likely cause of this? The spring? Lubrication? Thank you.",
"title": "V-brake arm not returning to \"open\" position",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><rim-brake>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43157",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29379/dork"
} | 28_27 | [
[
"If the brakes are free to move and spring back firmly, its likely a problem with the cable or the brake lever. Without pulling the cable out of the housings, slide the cable back and forward - it should be free to move. If the problem is the cable, it is best to replace it and does not cost much. It could be a weak spring. Another option is to try lubricating or WD-40. ",
"The spring could be broken or stiff. Both sides should extend outwards about the same distance when the noodle is removed, and should provide similar resistance to closing. The tension screws can be adjusted on either side and the springs should be cleaned of dirt and grime. If the springs are working correctly, check that the cable can move freely in the housing and the brake levers are not stuck. If the cable is worn, kinked or otherwise stiff, replacing the cable and outer sheath may be the best solution."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"The spring could be broken or stiff. Both sides should extend outwards about the same distance when the noodle is removed, and should provide similar resistance to closing. The tension screws can be adjusted on either side and the springs should be cleaned of dirt and grime. ",
"If the springs are working correctly, check that the cable can move freely in the housing and the brake levers are not stuck. If the cable is worn, kinked or otherwise stiff, replacing the cable and outer sheath may be the best solution."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I never wash any of my bikes with water.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Water, specially at high pressure out of a hose may get to places it shouldn't (i.e. bearings) and thus reduces the life expectancy of your bike.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Personally, I don't have a lot of space inside, and this works perfectly fine:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "let your bike dry completely scrub off all bigger chunks of dirty with an old dry cloth use a cleaning agent (ideally something like WD40) for stains that don't come off easily degrease your chain, also using a bit of WD40 and some dry cloth possibly remove wheels from frame if you really wanna get everything off reassemble everything, grease movable parts using a little bit (!)",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1,
3
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]
},
{
"text": "of chain oil or thicker grease (i.e. motorex)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "if needed most importantly: repeat regularely , so your bike never becomes too flithy",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29822/dru87",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I keep a piece of thick PVC foil, about 3×1 m in size which I spread on the floor in my corridor and put my bike on it (it has a kickstand so it can stand on its own).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I spread 4-5 sheets of newspaper just below the bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I take the chain off (which is easy since I have a master link) and clean it by shaking in a bottle of naphta.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I dust off all dried dirt from the frame using a cheap paintbrush (with a wooden handle so it doesn't scratch the frame).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "What is left, I clean up with moist disposable paper towels.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If I'm in the mood, I clean the shock absorbers in the fork with a paper towel sprayed with WD-40.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "After drying, I put the chain back on and lubricate it.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Most of the time, the dirt collected on the newspapers and the foil is completely dry so I can easily pour it over to the trash bin.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28954/Michał Kosmulski",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "After a long bike tour through south east Asia (Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia totaling ~5000 km) we were flying back to NZ with our bikes.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "NZ customs has very stringent requirements that no dirt/bugs/diseases comes in to the country on used sports gear, so we got the bikes sparkling clean by smuggling them up to our hotel room and putting them into the shower.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Nice low pressure, warm water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Good drainage for the dust/dirt.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Soap and a flannel to clean up the frames.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No mess to clean up afterwards.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23071/Penguino",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In fact, using a cloth to wipe clean the bike dirt are quite eco-friendly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might use less water if doing it properly.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "It also reduce the risk of splashing water into bearing,etc.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For heavy dirt like mud, first use gardening spray lightly spray to wet up dirt in order to remove them.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just be careful when dumping the waste water, toilet bowl is a good idea compare to bathtub drain.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For greasy part, spray grease removal/solvent and use paper towel instead of cloth.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Don't feel bad about \"saving the tree\" on the paper towel.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Though cloth are \"reusable\" ,you will waste water and pouring those greasy dirt into your drainage, which is more harmful to the environment.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26213/mootmoot",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Put the bike on a bike repair stand inside of a room that doesn't have a carpet or any fancy hardwood floor covering. Put down a thick plastic sheet under the chain and cassette area.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Instead of plastic, you can use a few pieces of thick cardboard.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Clean the chain with 30 revolutions of the chain, back peddling, using a Park Tool cyclone or similar tool filled with Simple Green or another de-greasing product.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Keep the chain and cassette over the floor protection that you put down in step 2. Flush dirty contents of cyclone down the toilet.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Repeat steps 3 and 4.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "6a.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Use small strips of cloth or \"gear floss,\" soaked in de-greaser, to clean between the gears on the cassette.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use a small brush, soaked in de-greaser, to clean the rest of the drive train.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "6b.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fill cyclone with warm water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Repeat steps 3 and 4 using warm water instead of de-greaser.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Flush dirty water down toilet.6c.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use dry cloth to dry the chain as best you can.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Mix a liberal amount of dish soap with water and use the mixture to fill up a spray bottle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fill another spray bottle with warm water alone.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Spray soap mixture onto bike to clean dirty parts of frame, rims, spokes, pedals, etc.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wipe off with clean cloth.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Repeat step 8 with just the water spray.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Dry off the entire bike with clean cloth.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Remember to lube the chain before you ride the bike after cleaning.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29872/Joe Heller",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would say it's probably easier / cleaner to take your bike to a friends house who has a garden or to a petrol station or car cleaning place (but don't use the jet wash on your bike).",
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"text": "I can't imagine trying to clean a bike in bathtub!",
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] | {
"question": "There are many sources describing how to wash your bike but all of them are for people who live outside town with a nice garden and a lot of space. Provably most of people live in small flats in a city block making it impossible to use these guides. How can I wash a bike properly without going outside and having really small space?",
"title": "How do I wash a bike indoors?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<cleaning><indoor>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43272",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23458/kifli"
} | 28_28 | [
[
"To wash a bike indoors, something to cover the floor is needed. All major dirt should be scrubbed off. Stains can be removed with WD-40. A lot of water is not recommended as it can get into places it shouldn't. TheWiping down with a cloth is eco-friendly. cahin should be degreased also with WD-40. Chain should be relubed. Any waste water should be discarded in the toilet.",
"Place the bike in an area without carpet or sensitive flooring and protect the floor with a plastic sheet. Since water at pressure can damage bikes, using it sparingly can extend your bike's life. Let the bike dry and brush off loose dirt before wiping it down with a cleaning agent and cloth, wipes or paper towels. Dispose of waste water in the toilet rather than a sink or bathtub. Clean the chain with a degreaser in an enclosed chain cleaning tool, and use strips of cloth to clean between the gears of the cassette. Remember to lubricate moving parts after cleaning."
]
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"Place the bike in an area without carpet or sensitive flooring and protect the floor with a plastic sheet.",
"Since water at pressure can damage bikes, using it sparingly can extend your bike's life. Let the bike dry and brush off loose dirt before wiping it down with a cleaning agent and cloth, wipes or paper towels. Dispose of waste water in the toilet rather than a sink or bathtub.",
"Clean the chain with a degreaser in an enclosed chain cleaning tool, and use strips of cloth to clean between the gears of the cassette.",
"Remember to lubricate moving parts after cleaning."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes , people riding with a frame pump or a mini frame pump will use this in conjunction with a repair-kit (spare tube, patch kit, tire levers).",
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"text": "Most if not all recreational cyclists carry some method of a repair kit because flats happen and it doesn't have to mean the end of your ride.",
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"text": "Generally with practice a reasonable time to fix a flat is 5 minutes.",
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"text": "Those 5 minutes spent fixing a flat will be much faster than calling an Uber or your SO for a ride, or even resorting to public transit.",
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"text": "Better yet spend those five minutes changing a flat and then go finish your ride!",
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"text": "You don't need a lot of bike tools—you, just need the right tools.",
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"text": "A frame pump is one of those tools...",
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"text": "A frame pump can be seen as a one time cost to get air into a deflated tire.",
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"text": "Whereas others use a CO 2 cartridge to inflate a tire, but over time a few bucks for one cartridge adds up.",
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"text": "A pump and a CO 2 cartridge have their advantages and disadvantages, but in the end the result is the same—fix a flat and be on your merry way!",
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"text": "Some satire on the matter can be found here .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Generally, most prepared cyclists carry a spare tube, some tire levers and a bit of money or something else that could be used as a tire boot.",
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"text": "With these, if you have a damaged tire or tube, you can normally put in a new tube and continue your journey.",
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"text": "For tubeless riders, a spare tube is sometimes necessary.",
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"text": "A pump or CO2 cartridge is necessary to inflate the tire.",
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"text": "CO2 is nice because its quick, and you can reseat a tubeless tire if necessary with one, but it is wasteful and once you're out of cartridges, you have to go to a pump anyway.",
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"text": "I carry both, just cause a small pump can be tiring on your arms.",
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"text": "A patch kit is useful but usually you end up replacing the tube on the road and patching it at home so that the patch is reliable.",
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"text": "Another use of a frame pump is to get dogs to go away .",
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"text": "In any case, I leave mine on my bike normally so its always there (its a mini, and attaches to the underside of my rack, so nobody sees it).",
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"text": "If I'm riding around town, I won't carry a spare tube or levers since its less of a hassle just to walk the bike home or catch a bus, but when I go out of town, I carry them just cause there aren't many options to get home without fixing the flat myself.",
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"score": 8
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"text": "I use (tough) touring tires.",
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"text": "If I have a puncture it's usually a slow one, from a sharp piece of grit (embedded in the tire) that has finally managed to work a tiny pin-prick through the outer tire, and begin to hole the inner tube.",
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"text": "I've been able to get home after discovering a slow leak, simply by stopping to re-inflate every 40 minutes or so (and without even finding and removing the offending grit until after I get home).",
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"text": "I also now carry tire levers and a spare inner tube.",
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"text": "I don't count on repairing a puncture (hence the spare inner tube): to find a puncture when I'm at home, I need to submerge the faulty inner tube in clean water and look for bubbles.",
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"score": 6
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"text": "Pumps have other uses as well.",
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"text": "If you have a tubeless setup, punctures can be sealed by your tubeless juice, but still cause some loss of pressure before self sealing.",
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"text": "In that case, carrying a pump without a patch/spare is completely appropriate.",
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"text": "It allows you to replace air lost while your tire sealed itself.",
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"text": "Additionally there are styles of riding to which frequent pressure changes are important.",
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"text": "Winter cycling races are a good example.",
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"text": "Over a long course , it may be well worth it to put additional air in your tires if trail conditions improve or the temperature drops significantly.",
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"text": "Punctures are of small enough concern during winter racing here that I often don't care a spare tube, but will still carry a pump to adapt tires to changing trail conditions.",
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"answer_details": {
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"score": 4
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"sents": [
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"text": "I carry a spare tube, a pump, patches and glue.",
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"text": "Because if I get a flat tyre I don't want to be stuck pushing the bike.",
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"text": "Simple as that.",
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] | {
"question": "I've seen people fit tire/tyre pumps to their bikes. What's the use in that? If I have a puncture it's usually a sizable hole in the tube, such as a piece of glass that pierced the tube. I could image that the pump is for if you also carry a puncture repair kit, plus levers to get the tyre off. Is that the use in carrying the pump?",
"title": "What's the specific use in carrying a pump?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pump>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43456",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26820/edev"
} | 28_29 | [
[
"Generally, most prepared cyclists carry a spare tube, some tire levers and a bit of money or something else that could be used as a tire boot. Punctures happen and they have to be fixed, especially you are out of town and there is no other way home. The pump puts air into the flat tire. ",
"Usually a pump is carried for use with a repair kit or spare tyre, but it can be used to pump up an underinflated tyre or slow flat without repairing the leak. A basic set of tools and spares is important to allow cyclists to continue after a puncture or other minor problem. CO2 cartridges and air pumps have advantages and disadvantages, but both will do the job."
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"Usually a pump is carried for use with a repair kit or spare tyre, but it can be used to pump up an underinflated tyre or slow flat without repairing the leak.",
"A basic set of tools and spares is important to allow cyclists to continue after a puncture or other minor problem. CO2 cartridges and air pumps have advantages and disadvantages, but both will do the job."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's the actual climb in question, according to OP.",
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"text": "So if you are out of the saddle, clipped into pedals, and have your hips to the stem and are bending forward at the waist, then there's little more you can do to balance the bike.",
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"text": "Consider not wearing a backpack.",
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"text": "You might be able to vary your track on the path by zigzagging, or taking a slightly less head-on approach.",
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"text": "Try the climb again, while recording on strava.",
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"text": "Then use the Compare function, or a link like this https://www.strava.com",
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"text": "/segments/4354748/compare/MzU0NzM3Nzc4NSwxNTgzODc4OTU0NA== to compare your best segment effort to someone else's.",
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"text": "The top time was only doing 1.4 km/h on the really steep bit at 0.7 km into the segment.",
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"text": "Generally the answer is momentum, and lots of it.",
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"text": "And if you stop, you're stuck.",
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"text": "If you're there, try and watch other people ride the same track.",
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"text": "See how they approach the same sections and where they push hard.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 5
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Don't just lean forward... move forward such that you are sitting on the pointy nose of your seat...",
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"text": "that's right position it",
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"text": "so it feels like you are about to have your rear impaled.",
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"text": "It requires leaning forward",
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"text": "but it also lowers and shifts forward your center of mass.",
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{
"text": "Here is where I get all nerdy.",
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"text": "Imagine an ellipse whose ends are defined by the front and rear tires contact points with the ground...",
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"text": "the sides (or width) of the ellipse would be a function of speed, terrain surface, and a riders comfort leaning into turns...",
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"text": "so we have this ellipse...",
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"text": "when climbing if a line projected from your center of mass (gravity) to the ground along the earth's gravity vector falls outside your ellipse you are in an unstable position...",
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"text": "So get low, get forward, and keep two wheels on the ground.",
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"text": "Have fun out there.",
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"answer_details": {
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"text": "I think its the steep turn that is stuffing you up more than the grade alone.",
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"text": "Consider this instead, go around and out along the ridge.",
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"text": "Then turn around on the slight crest, and nail it in a straight line back up the ridge-line.",
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"text": "If you get out of the saddle I bet you won't have a problem.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I don't have a section that steep",
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"text": "but I have a front wheel lifting problem on the last part of my commute since I have a lot of weight in the back pannier.",
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],
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"text": "No amount of leaning forwards stopped it when I'm fully loaded.",
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"text": "So I drape a toolbelt over the handle bars which makes a big difference.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "The toolbelt weighs around 7 kg.",
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"answer_details": {
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"score": 1
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As well as the suggestions already mentioned there is one tip that may help - when you are on a steep climb you will almost certainly be pulling on the bars - if you are pulling up on the bars then it will obviously encourage the front wheel to lift.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Instead, think about trying to pull backwards on your bars - so imagine that you're trying to pull them towards your knees.",
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28653/John M",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "When climbing longer 40-50% gradient sections my front wheel starts lifting even at cadences around 70. Leaning forward doesn't help much, I am already balancing myself on the rear wheel. Today the bike suddenly got out of control, I flipped and fell on my bum. Longer stem? Saddle forward? Can you shorten the front suspension? What can I do to shift weight forward?",
"title": "MTB Hardtail preventing flipping backwards on steep gradients",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<hardtail>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43611",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25662/AzulShiva"
} | 28_31 | [
[
"If you are out of the saddle, clipped into pedals, and have your hips to the stem and are bending forward at the waist, then there's little more you can do to balance the bike. You could consider not wearing a backpack. Another option to try is not just leaning forward but moving forward such that you are sitting on the pointy nose of your seat. Draping a toolbelt over the handle bars may help move weight forward. Think about trying to pull backwards rather than pulling upwards on the handlebar.",
"Try to shift as much weight forward as possible by moving forward in your seat and bending forward, not wearing a backpack and adding weight to the handlebars. Try watching the technique of other riders on the same section. Reduce gradients by zigzaging and going on the outside of a steep turn. Try to avoid pulling up on the handlebars, and instead try to pull toward your knees."
]
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] | [
[
"Try to shift as much weight forward as possible by moving forward in your seat and bending forward, not wearing a backpack and adding weight to the handlebars.",
"Try watching the technique of other riders on the same section. Reduce gradients by zigzaging and going on the outside of a steep turn.",
"Try to avoid pulling up on the handlebars, and instead try to pull toward your knees."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a Burley pet/cargo trailer",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and when I take it to the store, I use a long (~ 3 meter) cable with a loop on the ends.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I loop the one end around itself on one wheel, loop it around the hitch bar, thread it through the spokes of the other wheel, loop it around the hitch bar again, then lock it through my bike's U-lock.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "It's not super secure since the wheels have quick releases (as does the hitch bar), so it wouldn't take long enough to pop them off and untangle the cable from the hitch bar, but it's a mild deterrent against a quick \"smash and grab\" theft.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Plus they'd have to leave the wheels behind,",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "which would make the trailer pretty useless, especially if the thief is going to try to sell it",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so he's probably not going to want to have to buy replacement wheels.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "On the downside, it's just a 10mm cable, so wouldn't take much work for a thief to cut through it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wouldn't want to leave it parked all day like this, but for a shopping trip with bike rack in a high-traffic location near the front of the store, it's worked out fine.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5459/Johnny",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A bike trailer isn't particularly easy to transport if you haven't planned for it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "So opportunists won't take much deterring.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some form of lock on the trailer itself would be a good idea, but this would depend on the trailer design - a cable may be your only realistic option if it's loaded .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The contents may be more of a risk, so simple measures like not putting anything easily portable/valuable obvious on top would be a good idea.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're regularly parking a trailer somewhere for long periods (e.g. commuting with it for transporting a child or shopping)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you really could do with D-locking the frame to something solid even if it's fiddly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "But some trailers don't have a single looped bit of metal - this may even be relevant in choosing your trailer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If this isn't an option, taking a wheel or two in with you would be good.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Unlike with bikes, it wouldn't be so easy to steel a wheel off another trailer to complete a stolen one.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Alternatively you could remove a wheel from the trailer and lock it in the same D-lock you use for your bike.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a Croozer Kid Plus 2 for 2 seasons I recently had to leave it outside for some time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I struggled for w while to find a place where I can slip my U lock.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Eventually I used a cable I fortunately had with me and wrapped it around the beam that goes underneath the trailer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There are no gaps between the frame and the trailer body.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Bumpers are open on one side – no luck here.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Locking the hitch bar with a provided key is pointless as it can be detached on the trailer-side with one hand (with I do every time I use it and love the practicallity of it :))",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Update:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've purchased a 2 meter Kryptonite cable, wrapped it around the beam underneath the trailer and it sits there permanently.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It's just long enough",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so I can u-lock my bike and the trailer cable to the same object.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33935/Paul Nowak",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a Burley Flatbed on an expensive Pedego Interceptor.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I bought two Abus 55MB/40HB63 (brass) padlocks from Amazon.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They have long, 1/4\" shanks (shackles).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "One for where the trailer tongue fixes to the trailer and one for where the trailer connects to the bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fits like a glove!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Only need to take the key to where it fixes to the bike with me.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Read about this elsewhere but wanted to provide the data on the padlocks and size of shank.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43795/richard sales",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Consider the trailer its own vehicle and lock it away independently.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "A trailer should carry its own locks, just like your bike does.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Pulling a long chain lock through both wheels is quite effective (although a bit cumbersome if you have a wide trailer).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "So is locking both wheels to fixed objects like lanterns.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Depending on your threat assessment, you could even go for the overkill and lock everything that has enough room to fit a lock through to something.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Key in all this is to consider the bike trailer its own vehicle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Lock your bike like you'd usually lock it, remove the trailer and park it somewhere safe.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Locks will help you with that, just like they do with your bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19870/Mast",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Except treating trailer as a single unit with its own lock (capable of locking at least one wheel and the frame to bicycle stand) there is something more you can do as an additional protection.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Inspired by the way some car trailers are secured to the car hook, I recommend finding a way to complicate unauthorized detach.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If your trailer use Thule ezHitch axle mount or similar, you can find a way to make hard to take the cotter out (custom cotter with padlock eye)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If not possible, you can consider adding additional flexible secure connection (lock cable /chain), that will not get between spokes.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25953/krzyski",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a trailer like the others pictured here.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However it also has a removable handlebar across the back and a third wheel at the front, and the drawbar can fold underneath, turning it into an odd-looking three-wheel pushchair/pram.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Don't need to lock it outside the supermarket if you're pushing it around inside the supermarket.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Only downside is its a fraction wider than a normal shopping trolley/cart so other people tend to clip it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "Many of us pull bike trailers - whether one-wheeled or two-wheeled -- cargo or kids. What is the best way to lock up trailers - especially when you're commuting? Most trailers come with a quick-release attachment to the bike, which means they're also easy to steal.",
"title": "How do you lock up your bike trailer?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<lock><trailer>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/44102",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren"
} | 28_32 | [
[
"Options for locking a bike trailer include long cable with loop ends that can be locked to the bike U-lock, a specific lock for the trailer . Alternatively, the trailer can be taken into the supermarket. Trailers are harder to steal than bikes so maybe just removing one wheel and locking that would be sufficient deterrent.",
"Treat the trailer as a separate vehicle and lock it independently, or with a long cable attached to the bike's D-lock. Removing a wheel can make a trailer much more difficult to transport, or the trailer can be taken with you into the supermarket. The contents of trailers can easily be stolen, so remove valuable or obvious items before leaving."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
5
] | [
[
"Treat the trailer as a separate vehicle and lock it independently, or with a long cable attached to the bike's D-lock.",
"Removing a wheel can make a trailer much more difficult to transport, or the trailer can be taken with you into the supermarket.",
"The contents of trailers can easily be stolen, so remove valuable or obvious items before leaving."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "So your boy is simply sitting and not pedalling, so you push him along?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Of course he's not going to pedal when he's getting a free ride from you.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Stop Pushing!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Firstly, does he understand how a bike works?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Do you ride?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Does he see you or others riding?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might consider going the other way, and remove the whole transmission and the training wheels.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Essentially revert the bike to a balance bike until he gets the idea that he has to push.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Something like this:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Eventually he'll realise how slow the balance bike is, and want his pedals back to go faster.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "And that's awesome.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 27
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Two options: Remove the pedals (leave the crank in place) and set the seat low enough for him to touch the ground with his feet and push himself along.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Keep raising the seat a little at a time, as he gets the concept of balance, and reinstall the pedals when he seems ready.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Intentionally do what is often unintentionally done to a bike:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wrap something -- rope, twine, some sort of rubber strip -- around the rear axle, between the wheel proper and the sprocket.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Get it tight",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(tie it in place if necessary) and make sure it doesn't stick out to where it will get caught by the chain.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This will keep the sprocket from \"freewheeling\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As to #2, two cautions: 1)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is a very slight chance of serious injury if the kid gets going downhill with his feet off the pedals, then sticks his feet into the path of them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "2)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is also a slight chance that the bicycle will be damaged by the wrapping, and the forces between the two moving parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(However, I've seen several bikes with this done unintentionally, and, aside from busted spokes on larger bikes, there has been no obvious damage.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "What you describe is fixed gear bicycle.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Generally they are recommended only for people who are already very proficient at riding a bike, not kids under 3 years.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10595/ojs",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have 2 kids, they both knew how to ride a bicycle around 2.5 years (with pedals and without training wheels).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The secret was to teach them only 1 thing at a time, in a funny way.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Basically, here was the plan : Move forward,",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use the direction, Balance, Use of pedals, Everything combined.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Balance bike",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The bike they used the most during all this process was their balance bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We bought one and give it to them around 1.5 year.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Since then, we proposed them to use it every time it was possible (going to the park, at nurse's etc).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Basically, kids will learn steps 1 to 3 by themselves.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You know they rock at step 3 when they intentionally raise their feet just for fun in slopes, or just after strong pushes with their legs.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If they raise their feet, they're ready for step 4 : learning to use pedals.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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"text": "Bike with training wheels Make this step as short as possible, and make them alternatively use the balance bike.",
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"text": "That's not simple to get the idea that you need to push on on only one foot, and alternate.",
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"text": "In terms of coordination.",
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"text": "But as they know they need to go forward, just showing them once or twice will make them get the principle.",
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"text": "Once they get it, they just need practice to make it automatic.",
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"text": "Then they're ready for real bikes Without training wheels Once you tried this, you can forget the training wheels : you still can alternate between a bike and a balance bike.",
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"text": "Find a slightly downhill portion of asphalt",
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"text": "(you need it to be long enough, and safe).",
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"text": "Place your child on a bike (without training wheels) and if he's ready, just help him place his feet on the pedals and run next to him as he will enjoy the ride After a few descents, he will get it completely.",
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"text": "I had the same encounter with my 2 year old in 2015, then winter came.",
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"text": "When the 2016 summer came ~8 months later, he at 3 years old understood it with no effort.",
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"text": "Just relax, and as his cognitive skills grow, he will learn quickly.",
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"text": "I had the same problem with my son.",
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"text": "He didn't understand how to pedal and he lacked the strength in his legs to get it moving easily and so form any association with pushing and movement.",
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"text": "I was advised to use a push-bike without pedals, but obviously this doesn't solve the actual problem, but rather just avoids it.",
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"text": "In the end, I jacked the back of the bike up on some bricks (on the stabiliser wheels) and then manually moved his feet around on the pedals until he had figured it out.",
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"text": "I also got him at first to just give little pushes on the pedals rather than a full 360 turn.",
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"question": "I bought a 12\" bike with support wheels for my kid. He is 2.5 years old. He is not pedaling the bike, so I push the bike from the back. The bike moves forward, the wheels rotate, but the pedals do not move. Since the pedals do not move, my kid just puts his feet on them and will not pedal. How can I make the pedals move when the wheels move so that he'll learn to pedal?",
"title": "Making the pedals on my kid's bike rotate when I push so he'll learn to pedal",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<wheels>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/44132",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30638/anand"
} | 28_33 | [
[
"There are a number of options to encourage small children to pedal. One way is to remove the pedals (leave the crank in place) and set the seat low enough for him to touch the ground with his feet and push himself along. You can always wait for the child to develop the skills naturally with time. Of course he's not going to pedal when he's getting a free ride from you so stop pushing.",
"Some children need time to develop the cognitive skills necessary to ride a bike, so don't worry if he doesn't get it yet. Get him to practise balancing without pedals while pushing along with his feet, then pedalling will be easier when he has mastered this step. Pedalling can be mastered by supporting the bike on stabiliser wheels and letting him pedal without moving or balancing. Stop pushing the bike for him, and he will have to learn for himself."
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"Get him to practise balancing without pedals while pushing along with his feet, then pedalling will be easier when he has mastered this step. Pedalling can be mastered by supporting the bike on stabiliser wheels and letting him pedal without moving or balancing.",
"Stop pushing the bike for him, and he will have to learn for himself.",
"Some children need time to develop the cognitive skills necessary to ride a bike, so don't worry if he doesn't get it yet."
]
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "The most accurate way to do it would be with a pitot tube to measure wind velocity and then to contrast that against speed-over-ground from your GPS or wheel speed sensors.",
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"text": "Before one laughs about the science-fiction nature of this, there's a product that does so: The PowerPod (link is to DC RainMaker's review of it).",
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"text": "The Isaac software that comes with the PowerPod allows you to extract effective wind speed and direction amongst other things.",
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"text": "We like tailwinds as the effort to ride at a given speed is lowered.",
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"text": "In the same token we like slight downward slopes.",
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"text": "If you base your riding on effort, rather than a fixed speed, you will automatically utilise a slight tailwind.",
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"text": "If you however ride at a fixed speed, you simply had an effortless ride.",
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"text": "In other words, you missed nothing.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "@Daniel has made several comments that capture what experienced cyclists have learned.",
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"text": "You think something like",
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"text": "I'm going well , or killing it , or even (as happened today)",
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"text": "this looks like it's uphill , while blasting along.",
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"text": "When you stop you discover the awful truth.",
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"text": "It's a headwind home .",
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"text": "The reality is that we nearly always have a headwind , especially as Daniel says, when climbing a hill, because we're cyclists.",
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"text": "And we usually have a headwind going there, and coming back.",
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"text": "That one in a hundred tailwind case is not the first thing we think of.",
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"text": "Yes, vegetation can tell us.",
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"text": "But in many cases in a built up environment we can't see any vegetation.",
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"text": "But it wouldn't be the first time I've seen the vegetation looking like I have a tailwind when I actually have a headwind.",
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"text": "Because I'm a cyclist.",
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"text": "If you are biking along and you encounter a terrible smell -- look around and realize that it's you yourself that you're smelling -- then you're in a tailwind -- and that it's time you washed your bike jersey.",
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"text": "Thank you for the downvotes, I'll show myself the door. :-)",
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"text": "You can check wind direction from bending of vegetation, it stays bent to the wind for longer periods than it springs backwards in eddies, attach a white cotton/wool thread to the handlebars and check it's movement every time the bike slows, feel the wind in left ear, right ear, forwards and back, and check a weather graph with wind direction and speed expected for every hour of the day, and go out when it's max tailwind and come back when it's calmed on the return.",
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"text": "mostly the wind is as likely to be against you as with you, although checking the daily forecast can mean taking advantage of massive tailwinds to get some place very fast and then coming back in relative calm.",
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"text": "If you travel through an entire country you can get a map of the prevailing winds for every season and for every region.",
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"text": "The simplest way is simply stop in an open space and feel where the wind is coming from, using your face.",
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"text": "Downside is that any trees or buildings will make the wind veer, and traffic makes its own wind.",
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"text": "Plus you have to stop (anathema!)",
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"text": "Flags work really well, because they're often up high and in the real airstream.",
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"text": "You can also check the local weather report for your area.",
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"text": "For me that's http://www.metservice.com/towns-cities/christchurch/christchurch",
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"text": "but you should have something similar for your location.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Fresh answer - I did a bit of a ride yesterday",
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"text": "and it was quite warm.",
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"text": "So I ended up rolling my pants cuffs up to my knees for added cooling.",
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"text": "An unexpected side effect is that on my shins I could feel air gusts and eddies that were different",
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"text": "depending which way I was riding.",
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"text": "Its really hard to explain, but in a crosswind I could feel a wind vortex on the inside of my left leg and on the outside of my right leg.",
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"text": "In a headwind I could feel the wind curling around behind my shins, and in a tailwind there was no particular sensation either way.",
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"text": "So if like me you habitually wear pants, try some shorts, or roll up your pants cuffs and see how it feels.",
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"text": "Mind out for sunburn though",
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"text": "- that's a whole separate painful issue right now.",
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"question": "I think I missed a lot of opportunities to go faster when cruising and not taking advantage of tailwind. I find that if I put short effort in acceleration, the tailwind will take care most of the speed maintaining work. For big tailwind I can usually see leaves rolling on along my general direction. Lately, I think if wind noise is more quite, I might be in tailwind? So how can you tell if you've got tailwind or wind direction in general? (without flag anywhere nearby)",
"title": "How to know you have tailwind?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<wind>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/44967",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3042/imel96"
} | 28_34 | [
[
"S0: You can check wind direction from bending of vegetation, it stays bent to the wind for longer periods than it springs backwards in eddies, attach a white cotton/wool thread to the handlebars and check it's movement every time the bike slows, feel the wind in left ear, right ear, forwards and back, and check a weather graph with wind direction and speed expected for every hour of the day, and go out when it's max tailwind and come back when it's calmed on the return. The most accurate way to do it would be with a pitot tube to measure wind velocity and then to contrast that against speed-over-ground from your GPS or wheel speed sensors. If you travel through an entire country you can get a map of the prevailing winds for every season and for every region. The daily weather forecast will tell you about wind direction.",
"You could use a device to measure wind speed or check the local weather reports showing wind sped and direction, then take advantage of the expected tailwinds when planning your route. Flags, vegetation and the feeling of the wind on your body can be a good indication of wind speed and direction."
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"You could use a device to measure wind speed or check the local weather reports showing wind sped and direction, then take advantage of the expected tailwinds when planning your route.",
"Flags, vegetation and the feeling of the wind on your body can be a good indication of wind speed and direction."
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"sents": [
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"text": "To make suspension effective, it must decouple light-weight moving parts from heavy stable parts.",
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"text": "For this reason it is most effective to suspend the wheels - they will move fast up and down, while the frame and the rider will not move vertically.",
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"text": "A suspension seat post is better but will never work as well as wheel suspension.",
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"text": "You can observe the same principle in cars: light-weight aluminium rims are better for suspension than heavier steel rims.",
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"text": "In sort: suspension stems are ineffective for suspension, add weight and complexity, and potentially dangerous failure modes.",
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"text": "Former Alsop Suspension Stem rider here... as much as I respect everyone's answers above",
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"text": "I can say that Alsop suspension stem advocates would disagree with some of the assertions.",
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"text": "Alsop's motto was \"suspend the rider not the bike\".",
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"text": "So as far as having to decouple light-weight moving parts from heavy stable parts for suspension to work...",
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"text": "That is exactly what an Alsop does, decouples the rider from the frequency vibration of the bike.",
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"text": "Alsop stems, at least the later models, were spring loaded not polymer loaded.",
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"text": "They traveled as a parallelogram giving about an inch to an inch and a half of travel.",
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"text": "The parallelogram motion of the Alsop is what set them apart from competing suspension stems.",
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"text": "Other suspension stems (Girvin Flex Stem) used a swing/pivot point which limited the overall travel and rotated the handlebars along an arc during compression.",
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"text": "Limited travel and rotating controls led to the demise of the competition long before Alsop succumbed to the suspension fork.",
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"text": "At the time I loved my Alsop Frankenstem... the problem and what eventually caused me to walk away from the product was they tended to wear out fast.",
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"text": "Bushings constantly needed to be serviced.",
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"text": "Additionally, they were susceptible to catastrophic failure.",
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"text": "Over the course of 3 years I had 2 stems fail...",
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"text": "horrible crashes and stitches were the result",
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"text": "so I spent the better part of the next 20 years riding rigid bikes.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23679/dafew",
"score": 5
}
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"text": "I see suspension stems making a comeback.",
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"text": "If you do some searching you can find lots of examples .",
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"text": "However, they aren't usually found on mountain bikes because they provide nowhere close to the amount of of travel that today's mountain bikers demand.",
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"text": "Most of them provide under 20mm of travel, while mountain bike forks usually provide at a minimum 80mm of travel.",
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"text": "However, the suspension stems are getting somewhat popular with the gravel grinding trend that is gaining popularity, or even in places where the quality of asphalt leaves something to be desired.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I was thinking back to the 1990s when I was looking at these suspension stems and remembered why I didn't get them then : 1) Price.",
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"text": "I was a starving student and couldn't afford them.",
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"text": "Many were as expensive as my bike itself.",
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"text": "2) Brakes.",
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"text": "Like many mountain bikes at the time, I had cantilever brakes.",
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"text": "These required a fixed position above the brakes for the brakes to pull against -- for the front brakes, it was the handlebar stem.",
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"text": "So if I switched to a suspension stem, I'd have to get a brake bridge or go to another type of brake.",
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"text": "That would add to the cost.",
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"text": "Those were the reasons I didn't get them at the time.",
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"text": "Now, mtbs have switched to disc brakes or V-brakes, so the brakes aren't a reason to get them.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "They work more like a damping of the shock rather than absorbing it.",
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],
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{
"text": "Shocks might weight more but are good for down hill.",
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],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I had a Girvin for my road bike and it was down to weight.",
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],
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],
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"text": "It worked well on poor bumpy road conditions and gave better control through damping.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33611/Ian Croasdell",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I remember in the early 1990s contemplating getting a suspension stem for my 1989 non-suspended Rockhopper MTB. I'm surprised that suspension stems appear to have essentially disappeared. Why? They seemed a cheap and easy solution to give a bike front suspension. They could also be made lighter than suspension forks. What were the negatives?",
"title": "Why have suspension stems disappeared?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><suspension>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/45190",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren"
} | 28_35 | [
[
"S2: A suspension stem is not very effective because it does not carry much vertical load. suspension stems are ineffective for suspension, add weight and complexity, and potentially dangerous failure modes. On mountain bikes suspension stems provide less travel than a mountain bike fork. However, suspension stems appear to be making something of a comeback.",
"Fork suspensions are more effective because they decouple the moving wheel from the heavier and more stable frame and provide much more travel than stem suspension, which usually only provides slight damping. In addition to the lower effectiveness, suspension stems can have dangerous failure modes and require more frequent maintenance than fork suspension. Despite this, suspension stems are becoming more popular with gravel bikes designed for uneven road surfaces rather than off-road use."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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[
"Fork suspensions are more effective because they decouple the moving wheel from the heavier and more stable frame and provide much more travel than stem suspension, which usually only provides slight damping.",
"Suspension stems are becoming more popular with gravel bikes designed for uneven road surfaces rather than off-road use.",
"In addition to the lower effectiveness, suspension stems can have dangerous failure modes and require more frequent maintenance than fork suspension."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are a number of commercial products available to move bottle cages up or down from the existing braze-ons.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "They're marketed as a Bottle Cage Relocator or Bottle Cage Adapter , but essentially they're all a flat piece of metal with holes drilled into it that may have some finishing work to make it look nicer.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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"text": "Given they're in the $10 range",
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],
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"text": "it's probably a better use of your time to buy one than DIY.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31389/Ephphatha",
"score": 3
}
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are numerous Water Bottle Cage Mount adapters.",
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],
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],
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"text": "I use \"Topeak Handlebar Water Bottle Cage Mount\" to mount an extra water bottle cage on the fork of my MTB for long rides.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "(Nowhere else to put it).",
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],
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"text": "There are two parts: a metal band with holes and a plastic box with a screw to attach and adjust it - there is a screw passing through a metal plate in the plastic box adjusting the height of the plate which effectively makes the adjustment range continuous.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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"text": "an attachment that goes on a 0 deg or 90 deg and contains the holes for the cage Also Max diameter onto which it can mount is ~38 mm",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The offset from mounting surface to cage holes is ~36.5 mm.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Because it attaches with a metal band it is not suitable for a carbon frame.",
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "cost 7 to 9 dollars",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/18785/Craig Hicks",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had the same problem of too-low bottle bosses (since I prefer to use short bottles), and could not simply use a clamp-on bracket because the down tube is not round but \"streamlined\" (yeah, right).",
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],
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"text": "What I did is get a strip of aluminum bar (from a hardware store).",
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"text": "Without going out to the garage to look at it, I'm thinking it's about 1\" wide and 1/4\" thick, or maybe a little smaller than that.",
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"text": "I cut off a piece of the bar that was twice the distance between the bosses, plus about 2\".",
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"text": "I then drilled three holes in the bar, spaced as far apart as the bosses.",
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"text": "(This places the first hole about 1\" from one end of the bar, the second in the middle, and the third 1\" from the other end.)",
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"text": "To mount, first use a screw through the bottom hole in the bar and into the bottom boss.",
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"text": "Next take your cage and run a screw (you may need to get a longer one) through the bottom hole of the cage, the middle hole of the bar, and into the top boss.",
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"text": "Finally use a screw and nut to secure the top of the cage to the bar, through the top hole.",
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"text": "I've found this to be quite stable --",
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"text": "no problem with rattling, etc (though I suppose it might be a bit rattly for mountain bikers), and it has never bent or come loose.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/Daniel R Hicks",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You could use one or two of these SKS bottle cage anywhere adapters to move your bottle cage location.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you used just one, you'd use one of your existing cage bosses.",
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{
"text": "With two, you have total flexibility in positioning",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you can't find anything specifically made for this.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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"text": "Maybe just get a metal bracket or other similar piece of metal.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Hopeful, you can find something with fewer holes than pictured.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Drill some holes in it to customize and place it exactly where you want it.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/163/Kibbee",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Are there adapters available for moving a bottle cage up/down in the frame? I am trying to move my seat tube's bottle cage down 4-5 centimeters and I prefer using the braze-ons. Note: the question is about options using the frame's braze-ons, not external adapters.",
"title": "Adapter for moving bottle cage up/down while using frame's bottle cage braze-ons",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<frames><bottle>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/45557",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20002/mkpaa"
} | 28_36 | [
[
"There are a number of commercial products available to move bottle cages up or down from the existing braze-ons. They're marketed as a Bottle Cage Relocator or Bottle Cage Adapter , but essentially they're all a flat piece of metal with holes drilled into it that may have some finishing work to make it look nicer. A metal bracket or other similar piece of metal would do the same job. As they are metal, they are not suitable for a carbon frame.",
"Several commercial bottle cage adaptors are available, which can be used with one of the existing bolts or continuously along the frame. These use metal straps and are therefore unsuitable for carbon frames."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"Several commercial bottle cage adaptors are available, which can be used with one of the existing bolts or continuously along the frame. These use metal straps and are therefore unsuitable for carbon frames."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a helmet mount very similar, and yes its totally possible to dazzle and annoy any other road user, from pedestrians to other cyclists to motorised vehicle drivers.",
"label": [
1
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Benefits to a helmet light",
"label": [
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"text": "Its high up above the ground and higher than handlebar lights, so other road users can see it over cars.",
"label": [
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"text": "The beam follows your head, so you can light up the thing you want to see.",
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"text": "Retro-reflectors everywhere!",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Since the light source is near your eyeballs, retro-reflectors work really well and from a very long way away.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "A sweep across a dark road will illuminate all those car bumpers and street signs and mailboxes and jogger's jackets and sports shoes.",
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"text": "Disadvantages of and risks due to a helmet light Drivers might get dazzled.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I've had a bus driver yell at me from his rolling bus because of my head light.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Admittedly he was more annoyed by the flashing, so after some research I decided to leave it on solid.",
"label": [
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"text": "Retro-reflectors can be dazzlingly bright when lit up at close range, destroying your own night-sight.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Snaggage risk - your torch/flashlight is a fairly respectable-sized hook and can catch on low hanging branches.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I've caught mine on a washing line at low speed and basically \"clotheslined\" myself with the chinstrap.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Helmet Function may be compromised by the holder.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Michael Schumacher's skiing accident was exacerbated by the gopro camera mount that focused impact forces on one point rather than spreading them over the head like a helmet is supposed to.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you were crashing, then the mount should snap off.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "What if it didn't snap, or if you impacted vertically onto it?",
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{
"text": "Weight - torch batteries are dense and the added weight can be noticeable.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Comments",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "I have mine mounted fairly far back on the helmet, so the torch front barely clears the top.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "This reduces snag risk.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "The mount is held on by a minimum of velcro, and there's a separate hand strap used as a second line to stop it getting lost.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "As mentioned, I use it on solid mode now, however the focus is set fairly tight.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "At night my normal posture puts the lights on the road surface around 4-5 metres in front of my wheel.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "I tend to look up with my eyeballs rather than my neck.",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "However, if a car presents in a manner that crosses my path and may require them to give way (to yeild) then I will point the beam below the driver's door.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If I'm passing a parked car that has a person moving in the drivers seat I might light up their wing mirror.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "I'd rather annoy someone than get doored by their inattention .",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "While I won't deliberately dazzle anyone or anything, my priority is everyone using the road arrives home safe.",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "EDIT",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Here's a pic showing what I do, for clarity.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Not necessarily blind, but annoy and distract.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "For oncoming traffic, the best lights are ones mounted below eye level and that limit the upper beam.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The easiest way to check for this online is to see if a light is sold by a German mail order store and whether it passes StVZO regulations.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10595/ojs",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Have a friend wear your helmet with the light mounted on it like you planned.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Then go to a small residential street at twilight and see for yourself whether it is too bright.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Bring a car and try passing each other a few times, both in the twilight and when it gets completely dark.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If it blinds you, see if dimming the light or aiming it down helps.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If not, find a different light.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31665/SLR",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Problem with most flashlights is that they have a circular and symmetrical beam, ie they throw as much light up as down.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This is good for MTB as you want to see branches flying into your face.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "For a bicycle, this is not what you want.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "You need special optics, which the Germans normalized (google StVZO bike light).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Result is something like this (as an example):",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "Notice the beam's sharp cutoff, very little light is sent upwards, to the eyes of incoming people.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This is what you need.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Now, you should find a light of this type, small and light enough to mount on your helmet.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1821/bobflux",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Just about any light can blind/startle an oncoming driver.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'd suggest using it dimmed, that way it might last a little longer and you're less likely to cause an accident.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "As long as you avoid shining it directly at a driver, it shouldn't be a problem.",
"label": [
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31824/Philip Gibbons",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I began to rather dislike helmet mounted lights on oncoming cyclists.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Fortunately I don't see them very often riding in a city.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Yet from the dozen or so I met last Spring and the Autumn before two brought me in uncomfortable situations.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In both cases I was descending on a bi-directional multi use path (1% slope) at moderate speed (25 to 35 km/h).",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "In the first case a cyclist quite a bit down the way was looking at me and shining their light directly into my eyes.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Opposite traffic was moderately dense cyclists were overtaking.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Being dazzled I could not tell how much room I had to the left, and went as far to the right hand edge.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "However, I had difficulty identifying the edge of tarmac as well.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I went a bit too far, onto wet fallen leaves and rough ground, yet could stay stable.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the second case a slow rider with a head mounted light cycled that path up.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A rider behind with weak or no light was preparing to overtake.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "I mistook the high mounted light of the first rider for the light of the second rider and did not notice that they were already overtaking",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "and I had to move to the edge of the way.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This led to a very close, fast path with the second cyclist.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Much more often I am dazzled by badly adjusted, very bright, fixed bike lights.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This is especially a problem early in the Autumn when the weather is still fair but the sun sets early.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Lots of people are still riding but are inexperienced with their lights.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "As soon as it gets cold, only experienced riders are left (or at least they were yelled at often enough to fix their lights.)",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30402/gschenk",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm planning on buying this LED Torch with this helmet mount . Could I blind oncoming drivers?",
"title": "Using an LED torch as a helmet light, will I blind oncoming drivers?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<lighting><led-lights>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/45799",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31949/usainlightning"
} | 28_38 | [
[
"Using a helmet mounted with LED flashlight its totally possible to dazzle and annoy any other road user, from pedestrians to other cyclists to motorised vehicle drivers. For oncoming traffic, the best lights are ones mounted below eye level and that limit the upper beam. Special optics, which the Germans normalized (google StVZO bike light) are what is really needed. ",
"Unlike torches with a symmetrical beam, bike lights direct the beam downward toward the road. Dimming the light will help, but care should be taken to avoid shining directly at others. Handlebar-mounted lights help to limit the beam and can also prevent you from being dazzled by retroreflectors. To test the brightness, have a friend wear your helmet and torch."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
5
] | [
[
"Unlike torches with a symmetrical beam, bike lights direct the beam downward toward the road. Dimming the light will help, but care should be taken to avoid shining directly at others.",
"Handlebar-mounted lights help to limit the beam and can also prevent you from being dazzled by retroreflectors.",
"To test the brightness, have a friend wear your helmet and torch."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My mind also wanders on too-familar routes, so here are a few things that I consider helpful or have been told about.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Having some (even minor) alternative routes may help; you may want a system for choosing which one to take based on which roads are busy.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Taking this to extremes you can map out your city (thanks Criggie; also see if openstreetmap can use the data, or play with veloviewer tiles)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some goals to compete with yourself might also help -- they help you to concentrate on the riding even if not the traffic.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I tend to slow down as I lose concentration, so thinking about being quick helps.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The sheer physical effort of some of these helps to leave the thoughts behind.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some goals could be: Total time Time between 2 points",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "(Strava segments, for example) Maximum speed on a particular stretch Getting up the big hill without stopping/in a particular gear.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Trying to keep your cadence (pedalling rate)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "up is a good one - choose a lower gear than you might by instinct.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A particularly good goal if your roads are rough is to minimise the number of potholes you hit.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This requires you to know whether it's safe to swerve thus to know what's coming up behind.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Combined with this, you can practice bunny-hopping over damaged bits of road, or lifting the front wheel over even the tiniest cracks.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Alternatively you might try keeping count of how many bikes overtake you vs. how many you overtake.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1,
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "This isn't one for me but making words/phrases out of the letters of the numberplates of cars that overtake you can help keep your eyes on the cars themselves.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "I found my handlebar mirror helps -- once I got used to having one, glancing in it became a habit (and in fact with it I can see cars coming up behind out of the corner of my eye).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In turn, knowing that someone is approaching makes me keep up my awareness.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "I assume you don't have headphones on (that would be a bad idea).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Practice using your rearview ears -- try to work out what's going to pass you next and how wide/fast from sound alone.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Some people like bone conduction headphones which at least don't cover your ears.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Count +1 for each car you pass and -1 for each car that passes you and you win when you get to +10.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "-10 means pay more attention to the road (thanks Criggie)",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've had a few close calls (mostly with other cyclists and curbs) when I got too used to a route.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Here is what I do to keep my focus on the road: counting cyclists (and their female/male ratio - to determine if it is Spring enough :)) practicing bunny hops on small cracks exploring new routes or trying to choose the one with green wave practicing wheelies on climbs if there are no cars around (I would have commented these to Chris's answer if I had had enough reputation.",
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Sorry for the separate answer.)",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31743/Balint",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "TL;DR - Do intervals .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Although I have a few different routes I regularly take to work, 75% of the time",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "it's just one route.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I find doing intervals very useful to keep the route interesting.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "If you know the route, including hills, flats and descents well, you can really aim to go full bore a particular section of it and then switch the bits you go hard on.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Doing this also makes the slower rides on the same route more enjoyable and less painful!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I like to do efforts on a few of the hills I have on my commute, and though I ride them on a fixed gear, you could add another element by limiting yourself to certain gears for certain bits of the commute as an extra challenge.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Good luck!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28934/Drew",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Loss of focus during safety relevant routine tasks is a very common problem in occupational research.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "An example of drivers whose route cannot be altered to make it more exciting are train drivers.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The method of finger pointing and calling (FPC) had been in use in Japan for decades.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The train operator points at all relevant objects, for instance signals, and says what they see (eg \"proceed signal\").",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "A paper by Bhuiyan et al",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "* also explores imaginary FPC.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Imaginary FPC is compared to actual FPC with optical tomography of test subjects in a driving simulator.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The paper suggests there may be some benefit.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Imaginary FPC is particularly useful to cyclists since we rather not take a hand from the bars in situations where attention is required due to an inherent risk.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "It is conceivable a combination of actual FPC and imaginary FPC increases your awareness of safety relevant objects and agents whilst cycling.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "*Published in IEEE Pulse, May 2016, a peer reviewed journal.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30402/gschenk",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Not a bad thing, Nzall.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I believe you have enteted a mental state people called \"flow\".",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "At this state you are most peaceful and creative, yet your attention is never drift off from the road.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "This is a healthy and most sought after state of mind.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I experience this every time I am riding on my own on a familiar route.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "Any issues I have in mind will come to light without consciously thinking about them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "If there are no issues some ideas about life will emerge.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I think people experience \"flow\" in other activitied too, EG, when cooking and joggng alone, and when they are skillful in it.",
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]
]
},
{
"text": "But flow is more easily felt in cycling.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Three conditions to enter flow; you enjoy doing the skill",
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],
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],
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},
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"text": "you are familiar with the skill",
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],
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{
"text": "you are on your own Next time",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "do nothing special.; just keep riding.",
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],
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],
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"text": "Your internal state will cleverly decide when you will enter the flow state again.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Interedtingly, if you watch out when you will enter flow, it won't.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Happy riding!",
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],
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],
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]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31345/Asta L",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've found that when I'm used to a certain route while on foot or on the bike, I tend to have my thoughts drifting away and becoming less attentive, usually leading to dangerous situations and sometimes even accidents involving other road users. It's dangerous and I'd like to avoid it when I start to take the bike to my current job. What methods can I use to stay attentive and not get distracted by my own thoughts while riding?",
"title": "How do I avoid becoming complacent during my commute after riding the same route for a couple of weeks?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<commuter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/46335",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11269/Nzall"
} | 28_40 | [
[
"Cyclists have a number of strategies to prevent complacency when riding a route regularly. These include counting various things - for example male/female cyclist or number of cars that ovetake you -, doing bunny hops over cracks or damaged road, timing yourself over various sections of the route, try to work out what is behind you from the noise, among others. ",
"You could vary your route to work to prevent boredom. Use challenges to maintain awareness of your environment and notice other road users or obstacles along the way. Practice using your ears and mirrors to be aware of the road behind you. Try interval training or practice different skills like bunny hopping over potholes and cracks."
]
] | {
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[
"You could vary your route to work to prevent boredom.",
"Use challenges to maintain awareness of your environment and notice other road users or obstacles along the way. Practice using your ears and mirrors to be aware of the road behind you.",
"Try interval training or practice different skills like bunny hopping over potholes and cracks."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Are you sure those hex bolts are cracked?",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "They could instead just have peeling chrome.",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Hex bolts tend to accumulate water and grime and thus corrosion.",
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],
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"text": "It could just be surface peeling of the chrome.",
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"text": "I'd poke at them with a sharp ice pick and see if it's just surface peeling of chrome or if the bolts are actually cracked.",
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"text": "If it's the former you can ignore.",
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"text": "If it's the latter, follow @criggie's suggestion.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren",
"score": 26
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The good news is those bolts aren't load bearing parts directly.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The bad news is those are holding the load-bearing parts in place, so a failure of the bolt will allow the pivots to fail very quickly.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I'd strongly recommend taking them out and getting replacements from the maker of your frame.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Have a look at the answers to this question about shearing rotor bolts notice how little beef there is between the head and the shaft?",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Damage",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "to bolt heads needs to be fixed.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Take them out and check if they are hollow, it might be that those are only the burrs from machining the hex.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32464/imp",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "That's left over material from the broaching of the hex head in the bolt.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "broaching is a machining process in which material is removed.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "In this case the inside of the hex is formed with a broaching tool",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32472/emoney",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Those are artifacts or chips resulting from broaching the hex into the bolt head.",
"label": [
1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "Should be nothing to worry about but ask a mechanic if you want to be sure.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/29921/YoJoe",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Broaching in this reference: Hammering a hex shaped tool into the round hole in the bolt (maybe done when the bolt is red hot) to produce the hex profile for the allen wrench.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Pushes the material from the sides of the hole down and leaves the strange looking ragged chips you see when the tool is pulled out.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": "The aluminum surrounding such a hi-tensile bolt would probably fail long before the bolt fails.",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32488/JSacks",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "Is this normal? I just noticed it when I was cleaning my bike after a long day downhill mtb. Are those screws? Thanks for any replies.",
"title": "Inside of my full suspension bike pivots is cracked!",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<full-suspension>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/46408",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32396/Tanker Beast"
} | 28_41 | [
[
"Poking the bolts with a sharp ice pick and will show if it's just surface peeling of chrome or if the bolts are actually cracked. Taking them out and checking if they are hollow is another way, it might be that what can be seen is only the burrs from machining the hex. This issue should be nothing to worry about but it is always worth checking with a mechanic to be sure. The good news is those bolts aren't load bearing parts directly. It would be better to take them out and get replacements from the frame manufacturer.",
"This could be peeling of the surface coating, but is probably just chips left over from machining the hex. These bolts are not load bearing and are stronger than the surrounding metal, so they are unlikely to fail but can be replaced by the maker of the frame."
]
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"This could be peeling of the surface coating, but is probably just chips left over from machining the hex.",
"These are not load bearing and are stronger than the surrounding metal, so they are unlikely to fail but can be replaced by the maker of the frame."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You don't need to take the cassette (cogs) off to clean it.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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[
0
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},
{
"text": "Use a citrus degreaser fluid.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Clean the chain and chainrings at the same time.",
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{
"text": "You can use a rag pulled taut to get between the cogs, or there are a number of specialized cassette and chain cleaning tools available.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "There are many instructional videos out there with tips on cassette and chain cleaning also.",
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-1
],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you've got the tools (chain whip, lockring tool, wrench), it is easier and more thorough to remove the cassette and soak it in a degreaser than it is to clean it in situ.",
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{
"text": "I remove the chain and cassette, drop them in a wide-mouthed jar, cover with Simple Green (a non-toxic cleaner, possibly not available where you are), and let it sit for a few hours, agitating occasionally.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Then rinse, let dry, and re-lube the chain.",
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0
],
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2152/Adam Rice",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Same as the others - I leave it on the bike to clean.",
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1
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],
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"text": "I use a combination of an old screwdriver to break up and pick off any compacted dirt from between cogs.",
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],
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"text": "Too much of that and the chain doesn't sit right.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Then I use a cassette cleaning brush tool to brush off the loose and powdery dirt.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Last is a wipe with an old rag to restore some shine to the sides of the cassette, but I don't degrease it.",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "The chain I clean in a similar way",
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},
{
"text": "- I pick off larger blobs of dirt that live on the outside of the inner plates.",
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{
"text": "Then I use a chain cleaning machine with degreaser in it, either turps or proper fluid.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Petrol tends to upset the tool's plastic.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Then I let that dry, and apply a wet or dry lube after an hour or so.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've found out that those cotton strings or ropes from paper shopping bags are a rather practical tool for cleaning cassettes.",
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},
{
"text": "Remove the wheel, sit down and put it against your shins, cassette facing away.",
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],
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-1
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{
"text": "Then engage one of these strings between two cogs and move",
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],
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},
{
"text": "it left",
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},
{
"text": "/right/left/right.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "The freewheel helps and for increased efficiency the string can be soaked with detergent or solvent.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "It may be washed and re-used quite a number of times.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10401/Carel",
"score": 2
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You don't need to take the cassette off the bike.",
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1
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[
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},
{
"text": "Spray/squirt a concentrated degreaser and use cloth strips",
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1
],
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1
],
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[
0,
1
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},
{
"text": "(I recommend 1 inch wide and 3 inch long) to get in between the cogs, clean them nicely and free the surface of all the tough muck.",
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],
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"text": "Better yet, if you've got a specialized cassette cleaning claw, give it a go: they work pretty well.",
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1
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1
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Hope this helps you.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33210/Dan",
"score": 1
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Depends on what is meant by \"best\".",
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"text": "The most thorough approach would be to remove the cassette from the wheel and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner.",
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1
],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Probably excessive.",
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],
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},
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"text": "Second best it to remove the cassette and use a mild solvent (e.g. WD40) and a rag to clean the sprockets.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "This is a good time to examine sprockets for cog wear (the smaller ones in particular).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "It is also possible to clean in situ with a wipe, a rag or some kind of floss.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
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},
{
"text": "Whatever you do, do not flood a mounted cassette with solvent.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
},
{
"text": "You might inadvertently remove lubricant from the freehub and/or wheel hub.",
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0
],
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],
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{
"text": "I personally remove, clean and examine my cassette once a year.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
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},
{
"text": "If your chain is well maintained you are unlikely to have to clean your cassette more frequently.",
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],
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-1
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],
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"score": 0
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I personally do a full bike overhaul every six months, though I absolutely torture my road bike doing off-roading on places I wouldn't even put a mountain bike",
"label": [
1
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "....",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "My chain is cleaned thoroughly after every ride, and then stored in a small vat of chain oil to keep it from rusting.",
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1
],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "(Bad practice, I know, but I'm lazy and like to make sure the chain is ready for every ride.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Pull it out, attach it, run it through the cogs a couple of times and then wipe off the excess oil from the chain and cogs and derailleur before the ride.)",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "I'd first remove the wheel, get my cassette lock-ring removal tool and a chain whip and remove the cassette, taking a note of all the positions of the rings.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Then, on my cassette, there are little holes that were probably put in for weight reduction; I'd nail each cog onto a big board of ply-board, soak in a strong degreaser and agitate with a brass wire brush, then pressure-washing off everything, then repeat on the other side.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "(As I said, this bike is tortured, and as such, everything needs a very heavy cleaning...)",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "The free-hub itself",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I would also replace, too.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Every year or so, I replace my chain, chain-rings and cassette, bottom bracket, headset and hub axles/bearings.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "I personally disagree with using a degreaser on the cassette whilst it's still on the wheel as the degreaser can get into the wheel hub, and much worse, into the free-hub mechanism itself.",
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},
{
"text": "A more basic way would be to just remove the cassette, degrease it in a plastic tub and leave it to soak for a couple of minutes then brush off with a plastic brush, rinse off and then re-assemble.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Place your (I'm assuming) freshly-cleaned chain back on, lubricate the chain and then ride on!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If possible, avoid getting oil on the chainrings; only the insides of the chain need lubrication.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is no extreme heat happening on the chain and cassette, so lubrication is not a requirement, and if anything, would hinder the efficiency of your chain by something hilarious like 0.0005 percent because of the layer of oil there.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A pathetic number, but another good reason is it'll turn any road dust and brake dust into a grinding paste for your chain.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/20737/yollooool",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "Would it be best to take it off first then soak it in soap, or should I use petrol to get the grease off first?",
"title": "How do I best clean the cog wheels?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<cleaning>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/49828",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34442/user475156"
} | 28_43 | [
[
"If you've got the tools (chain whip, lockring tool, wrench), it is easier and more thorough to remove the cassette and soak it in a degreaser than it is to clean it in situ. It is, however, also possible to clean in situ with a wipe, a rag or some kind of floss. There are also a number of specialized cassette cleaning tools available. The important thing is not to flood a mounted cassette with solvent.",
"Removing a cassette allows more thorough examination and cleaning by soaking in cleaner, but the cassette can be cleaned in situ together with the chain. Specialised cassette and chain cleaning tools can be used to remove dirt, while a rag soaked in degreaser can clean the sides of the cogs. Care should be taken that no degreaser enters the wheel hub or freewheel mechanism when cleaning in situ."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
5
] | [
[
"Removing a cassette allows more thorough examination and cleaning by soaking in cleaner, but the cassette can be cleaned in situ together with the chain.",
"Specialised cassette and chain cleaning tools can be used to remove dirt, while a rag soaked in degreaser can clean the sides of the cogs.",
"Care should be taken that no degreaser enters the wheel hub or freewheel mechanism when cleaning in situ."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One winter tire is better than none if you're going to be riding in snowy conditions, so go ahead and throw it on.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you do end up running only one tire, you'll probably want it on the front wheel",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "so you don't lose traction while cornering and so that you can maximize braking performance.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/35408/user35408",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have found studs on the front and a regular tire on the back gets the best trade-off of speed and stability.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Two studded tires is just way too slow.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "With a studded front, stability to avoid wiping out is there, especially in those obnoxious snowy ruts.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes rear traction isn't great and your rear slips and sldes, but not often and when it does, you rarely wipe out.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/683/whatsisname",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Studded tires are of the greatest value on ice, and if you are riding on ice you want as good as traction as possible, especially on the front wheel.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In patchy ice you can coast through at speed with no traction and not crash as long as you are not trying to steer, brake or accelerate.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "With a studded front that changes to lightly steering may not result in a crash.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I also like studded tires on mixed ice and snow, but for heavy snow I like mudders.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A good knobby tire handles better in deep snow than studded does.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My general purpose tire choice is a tire with a smooth center ridge and big knobs that contact as I turn or sink.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I use such tires in every thing from 8\" snow to rain and mud or dry roads.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They are not the best choice for ice but the local climate is not known for ice (beyond the occasional patch).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8597/hildred",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As I currently have exactly one schwalbe winter at home",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've been thinking about this myself.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've come to the conclusion",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "it's a bad idea for me.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm mostly concerned about patches of sheet ice, and on those I want the front wheel to hold a line, but wouldn't trust it for much braking.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wouldn't brake hard and would brake more than normal at the back, less at the front.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So I would want grip from the back tyre - it might fishtail if I get it wrong but it would still slow me down.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I purchased my first set of Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres after I destroyed the 28\" back wheel of my Kalkhoff bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I hadn't realised that the temperature had been below zero (°C)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "overnight (it's rare enough in the west of Ireland).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As I leaned into a left turn I felt the rear wheel start to slide on ice.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It then hit a dry patch and I managed to right the bike and save myself but badly buckled the wheel.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I had to have the wheel rebuilt as it has an 8-speed Shimano hub.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I purchased the tyres for the next winter.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I found them quite reassuring but a bit noisy - like riding on fine gravel all the time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The second set I purchased didn't seem to last very long.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The studs wore through the tyre and punctured the tube several times.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I felt as though there had been some deterioration in quality.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I would not recommend front tyre only.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24374/Transistor",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Does anyone have any thoughts on use of winter (studded) tires, such as the Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires, on only the front or rear wheel (and with a standard tire on the other wheel)?",
"title": "Use of winter (studded) tires on only one wheel?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/50849",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25696/Joshua Rosenberg"
} | 28_44 | [
[
"One winter tire is better than none if you're going to be riding in snowy conditions. If you are running only one tire, you'll probably want it on the front wheel. Studs on the front and a regular tire on the back is rcommended as the best trade-off of speed and stability. Studded tires are of the greatest value on ice, and if you are riding on ice you want as good as traction as possible, especially on the front wheel. However, some people consider that a good knobby tire handles better in deep snow than a studded one does.",
"One winter tyre is better than none, and a winter tyre on the front will help stability without sacrificing too much speed. Studded tyres work well on ice and mixed ice and snow, especially to prevent accidents when steering."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
5
] | [
[
"One winter tyre is better than none, and a winter tyre on the front will help stability without sacrificing too much speed.",
"Studded tyres work well on ice and mixed ice and snow, especially to prevent accidents when steering."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I find that using my primary hand (my writing hand) is better than the other one.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Keep eyes on the road, you should not have to look to find your bottle.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I use my teeth to open the sippy valve, breathe in and then take a small drink and hold it for a sec before swallowing.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes I hold the bottle over the bars for 5-10 seconds to let the first mouthful have an effect, and then take a second drink.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When done I use my chest or my index finger to close the valve, and then put the bottle back in an empty cage (yes once I tried to push a bottle in where the other already was)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You should be able to put the bottle down into the cage without looking, although sometimes I take a quick glance if it doesn't go straight in.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Drinking on a climb is okay as long as its not too steep.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Straight and consistent is best.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're riding in a group, don't drink on the front cos",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you'll slow down and that will cause the whole bunch to loose momentum.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wait till you rotate off the front before drinking.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Right at the back is ideal.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Never drink on a downhill or anywhere the road surface is a bit sketchy.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "With a bottle in hand your control is lower, and gravel or sudden potholes need a lot of attention.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Improve by practising - same as most things in cycling.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Quiet ride make sure there are no cars around and nothing coming up that may be an obstacle, and have a sip.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Don't guzzle water, it will be bad for your guts and there's a chance of some going down into the lungs by mistake, inducing a cough.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I find that I often phlegm-up within 5 minutes of a big drink, so drink less but more often.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 25
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Remove bottle from bottle cage and keep riding using the hand not holding the bottle Pull up the cap with teeth Squeeze bottle in the mouth (if soft bottle) or suck liquid in (if hard bottle) Swallow and repeat if necessary Push back bottle cap with mouth/teeth Place bottle back in bottle cage",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Any problem with the above sequence is either due to: lack of skills with riding one hand ==",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "> practice it more lack of breath during mouth filling/swallowing ==",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "> take shorter shots, delay drink lack of skills with handling bottle (take, open, close, place back) ==",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "> practice it more",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30865/L.Dutch - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I switched to CamelBak's podium bottle, which has a lock and a self-sealing \"Jet Valve\" that only has water come out if you squeeze really hard.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This has made the whole process easier (and better for your teeth)!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, if you keep one hand on a handlebar, and use your sense of touch with the other hand, you never have to take your eyes off the road!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My process is similar: Unlock the water bottle before you start your ride Use one hand to feel for the bottle and remove the bottle from the cage Place bottle end into your mouth, squeeze the bottle, and the water comes out!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Feel for the cage with the bottom of the bottle and place back into the cage",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/35464/brascoball",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I originally used to prefer to drink with my right (primary) hand but now prefer to use the left, with the right controlling steering and covering the brake (the front brake on my case as I'm in the UK.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Because I only drink water while actually riding, I always drink from the bottle in the downtube cage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is always a squeezy bottle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is much exist to get out than any other cage I've got.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I swap bottles or decant from a hard bottle when I'm stopped anyway, so that this is always the case.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A smooth flat road with good visibility is the best spot for a drink; the slightest of downhills works well too (less than 1%, so just sitting up",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "straight stops you from accelerating).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Easiest is freewheeling while getting the bottle in and out, so get a reasonable speed up before taking out the bottle,and put on a few pedal stripes before putting it away.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Glance down at the cage to get your bearings only at a sensible time.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This can be less distracting than fumbling to put a bottle away by feel, but it really does have to be a glance.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A few mouthfuls at a time is a good guide for me, and a drink before eating something, then another after is essential.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also a drink after a gel",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Also have your water bottle positioned tilted up to the side of your face.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So you're sipping from the side of your mouth.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You won't have to bend your head back as far, as apposed to sipping from the front.",
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"text": "Chris Froome gave me the idea when I watched the Tour de France",
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"text": "Adding to others answers If you are working and breathing hard, swallowing a mouthful of liquid without choking can be a challenge.",
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"text": "Take small mouthfuls to avoid choking.",
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"text": "If you do get more liquid in your mouth than you can cope with, tip your head forward",
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"text": "so the liquid runs to the front of your mouth, you will then be able to swallow it in parts.",
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"text": "Also, if something unexpected happens and you need both hands on the bars or brakes quickly, just drop or toss the bottle (but be careful of you are riding in a group, obviously).",
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"text": "Start with practising the act itself on a stationary bike and get used to the position of the bottle without having to look for it.",
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"text": "Then move on to a moving bike and repeat the action, take care to not have people around you while you work on your stability.",
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"text": "Eventually you'll be able to drink while cycling without thinking about the act itself.",
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"text": "I find it easier to drink from the side rather than straight to the front.",
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"text": "This makes it easier to keep you eyes on the road.",
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"text": "You should have smaller sips more often than large gulps more seldom.",
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"text": "This makes it easier to drink while breathing heavily and maintain oxygen intake.",
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"text": "You could mount the bike on a roller to practise before going out on the road.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/27234/Kristian Kalvå",
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] | {
"question": "How do you drink while riding? What would you tell a new rider who is having difficulty getting a drink without stopping or slowing a lot? Assume the bike has bottle cages in the usual places, and we're not talking about hydration bladder backpacks. Question is purely about getting liquid into the mouth, not what should be in the bottle. Inspired by this comment https://imgur.com/gallery/o95PAOs/comment/1167254453",
"title": "How to take a drink while riding?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<hydration><new-rider>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/50940",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie"
} | 28_45 | [
[
"Cyclists should not drink on downhill sections or sketchy surfaces. A smooth flat road with good visibility is the best spot for a drink. They should make sure there are no cars around and no obstacles. It is useful to practice getting hold of the bottle on a staionary bike without having to look at it. It is important to drink small sips to avoid choking, drink a sip before eating and another after. If something unexpected happens, throw the bottle and get both hands on the handlebar.",
"Practise removing and replacing the bottle in advance, and only drink when the road is clear with good visibility and no obstacles. Keep your eyes on the road rather than looking for your bottle. To prevent choking and losing sight of the road, take small sips from the side of your mouth rather than larger gulps. Drink little and often."
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"Practise removing and replacing the bottle in advance, and only drink when the road is clear with good visibility and no obstacles. Keep your eyes on the road rather than looking for your bottle.",
"To prevent choking and losing sight of the road, take small sips from the side of your mouth rather than larger gulps. Drink little and often."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Commuter or city bikes are designed for paved surfaces.",
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"text": "A suspension fork on such a bike is not going to add much comfort, except perhaps when riding over potholes or kerbs, which are avoidable.",
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"text": "Suspension forks add weight, which brings a different type of discomfort as you have to exert effort to move that weight around.",
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"text": "This gets worse the more inexpensive the bicycle is.",
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"text": "Low end suspension forks are heavy and have poor performance.",
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"text": "I find the ideal commuter bike is: lightweight, reliable, and inexpensive.",
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"text": "Reliable:",
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"text": "A commuter bike can’t fail or you’ll be late for work.",
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"text": "Light weight:",
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"text": "it has to be lightweight as you’re navigating it around bike stands, carrying it up stairs, taking it over curbs, and putting it on bus racks or in the trunk of a car that’s come to pick you up when and if your bike breaks by the side of the road and you can’t fix it before being late for work.",
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"text": "Inexpensive:",
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"text": "your commuter bike often has a shortened lifespan.",
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"text": "It either gets stolen, hit by a car, or damaged by the elements.",
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"text": "If you’re buying new, the bike you’re looking is likely inexpensive but likely fails in terms of reliability and weight if it has front suspension.",
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"text": "Most bikes that are inexpensive and have front or full suspension are what we call on this forum somewhat derisively [Bicycle Shaped Objects] or BSOs.",
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"text": "A used steel-frame road bike or hybrid with no suspension that can fit panniers is often a much better choice for commuting.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren",
"score": 15
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"text": "The drawback of the suspension is that it can swallow energy, i.e. if you stand up to push the pedals harder, you can not exert the same force, plus I find the motion of the suspension annoying in this situation.",
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"text": "I used a bike without suspensions for more than 20 years, and I was happy with it both on paved and dirt roads.",
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"text": "In my opinion a good seat and well adjusted handlebar adds much more comfort, than a suspension.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36707/Horror Vacui",
"score": 7
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"text": "I think a big impact of with/without suspension is maintenance .",
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"text": "Suspension brings more movable parts, which means more maintenance and repair costs.",
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"text": "Suspension can feel comfortable when it works, because it absorbs some shocks.",
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"text": "But one other thing it does, is to absorb energy you might want to use for speed, not bouncing.",
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"text": "Imagine standing on your bike and pedaling really hard; you want that energy to drive you forward, but with suspension some of that energy goes into bouncing you up and down.",
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"text": "Sometimes you need suspension, like if you're going offroad or riding on roads with lots of holes.",
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"text": "But in a city you might prefer not to have suspension, as you'll get lower maintenance and more energy efficiency.",
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"text": "For a commuter bike, I'd recommend something dead simple.",
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"text": "Fewer bells and whistles that will eventually break.",
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"text": "It depends.",
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"text": "If you are going to ride with your commuter bike on roads where a front suspension benefits your riding or comfort, it is better to have a front suspension.",
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"text": "If, however, you are going to ride on roads where a suspension fork does not bring you any benefits, it is better to have a rigid fork.",
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"text": "There is a caveat though: If you like or dislike front suspensions for other reasons, e.g. you like or dislike the looks of it, you have to evaluate above decision considering these other reasons.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Basically depends on commute, trade off of comfort over efficiency.",
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"text": "My commute is full of speed bumps.",
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"text": "I prefer the ability to ride at speed over those bumps without having to keep doing 'brace-brace-brace' to avoid jarring to bits.",
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"text": "Maybe its because I'm on old side.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36721/J Lewis",
"score": 3
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I would add that while I agree with the above answers, the conditions of the road on your preferred route might have a big impact on this decision.",
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"text": "I opted for a fixed fork for both ease and cost, but now regret it as the roads I ride on are extremely pitted and bumpy near the edges (approximately 1-2 cm irregular ridges / patches where the top surface has broken away).",
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"text": "I've yet to try padded gloves or raising my handlebars to take some of the vibration out",
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"text": ", I mention it as I assumed that main roads that feel perfectly smooth where my car tyres are positioned are not necessarily so nearer the edges where you'll be riding.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36718/Bob Carolgees",
"score": 1
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"sents": [
{
"text": "If you can afford it, for the average fun-loving , sociable person, suspension is a must!",
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"text": "There will be times when instead of doing the commute, you may want to do a social ride with friends along riverbanks and other areas where the path will be less than smooth.",
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"text": "Fixed forks will limit you options for comfort in these situations and in fact the shaking handlebars can be seriously annoying along with any unstable traction.",
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"text": "Bikes don't have to be taken too seriously and should be a staple part of the fun of a normal life.",
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] | {
"question": "Is a commuter/city bike without front suspension comfortable?",
"title": "Is it better to get a commuter bike with a front suspension or without one?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<commuter><touring-bikes>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/52325",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36697/Jiju Kurian"
} | 28_46 | [
[
"Commuter or city bikes are designed for paved surfaces. A suspension fork on such a bike is not going to add much comfort, except perhaps when riding over potholes or kerbs, which are avoidable. Suspension forks add weight, which brings a different type of discomfort as you have to exert effort to move that weight around. A used steel-frame road bike or hybrid with no suspension that can fit panniers is often a much better choice for commuting. Suspension brings more movable parts, which means more maintenance and repair costs. If you are planning to use the bike socially as well, along less smooth paths and trails, you may want to think about suspension.",
"Suspension can increase the range of surfaces you can ride on and add comfort, but it also wastes energy, adds complexity and is often poor quality at the lower end of the market. If the roads you plan to travel on are relatively smooth, you may not need suspension and this will make the bike more reliable and easier to maintain. If the road conditions are poor or you would like to ride on bumpier roads in your free time, this may make suspension worthwhile. Otherwise, it may be simpler without suspension."
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"Suspension can increase the range of surfaces you can ride on and add comfort, but it also wastes energy, adds complexity and is often poor quality at the lower end of the market. If the roads you plan to travel on are relatively smooth, you may not need suspension and this will make the bike more reliable and easier to maintain.",
"If the road condition is poor or you would like to ride on bumpier roads in your free time, this may make suspension worth it. Otherwise, it may be simpler without suspension."
]
] |
[
{
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"text": "Comfort isn't really an issue for a 30-minute ride, as long as the bike fits.",
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"text": "Also, for any given price point, an aluminium bike will have better components than a carbon bike, so will probably be more enjoyable to ride.",
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"text": "For a commuter bike, I'd be much more worried about theft and damage, unless you have somewhere secure to park the bike at work.",
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"text": "If you are worried that aluminium will be too harsh, you're probably wrong",
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"text": "but I'd consider steel instead, rather than carbon.",
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"text": "Or just put wider tyres on it.",
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"text": "I've ridden rigid aluminium hybrids with 28mm tyres and had no comfort issues at all.",
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"text": "Any good bike shop should be happy to let you take a test ride of at least half an hour on any bike you're thinking of buying.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13174/David Richerby",
"score": 23
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"sents": [
{
"text": "If you are going to be commuting regularly so that you rack up some miles, in different kinds of weather, I think it's better to buy an aluminum frame bike and spend the saved money elsewhere.",
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"text": "Upgrading the seatpost, saddle, and tires will make the bike plenty comfortable.",
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"text": "Money can also be spent on more or better clothing - which will make a big difference in comfort if you are riding in unpleasant weather.",
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"text": "Also, remember the cost of replacing tires, chains and cassettes.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "As others have mentioned, for such short rides comfort will likely not be a major concern in the same way it would for endurance events, \"bikepacking\", or even racing.",
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"text": "That's not to say you shouldn't consider comfort at all - a bad saddle or bad bike fit",
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"text": "can make things hurt in a hurry.",
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"text": "But these are things that can be easily adjusted to make any one of hundreds of bike models work, and you shouldn't need to optimize your comfort beyond pinning down those basics.",
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"text": "That said, I wanted to address the underlying assumption within your question: that some frame materials are fundamentally \"more comfortable\" than others.",
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},
{
"text": "While it is true that it is generally easier to make some materials feel comfortable, in the end comfort, or whatever performance metric",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "you choose to focus on, is the result of complex interactions between the materials, the geometry (both rider geometry and tube shapes), and the construction of the frame.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "With clever enough, or poor enough, engineering you can make any material feel harsh or compliant, stiff or flimsy, responsive or sluggish.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Ultimately, the best and really only way to determine whether a particular bike will feel good for you is to test ride it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Here is a good video by GCN on carbon vs aluminium frames",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25590/Josh Doebbert",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'd read this before buying Carbon fibre, the conditions and environmental consequences are huge.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "See https://polebicycles.com/why-arent-we-going-for-carbon-frames/ Also, if you're doing short commutes, might a cyclocross bike be better, you can fit panniers to some of those which might make it more useful.",
"label": [
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37111/James",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For a fun rider or daily morning rider/ commuter, considering the price point, I would always consider a good Aluminum alloy frame with good groupset over carbon frame.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "For very short commutes, like half an hour, take bike that has storage space and makes you work out a bit (for health reasons)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40094/Manzar Abbas",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I recently started a gig and am commuting 30 minutes each way over patchy city streets.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm currently riding a steel single-speed.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here are the things I'm looking forward to in my next street bike, once I've saved up for it: Better fit.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Track geometry and track handlebars aren't great for me.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Better brakes.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "This bike has long-reach Tektros, which are pretty spongy.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "More than one gear.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Self-explanatory.",
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},
{
"text": "Pedals suited to street shoes.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Track pedals aren't great for this; I plan on getting some MKS \"easy superiors\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Having a bike that doesn't bounce all over broken pavement would be nice, but that can be achieved in a number of ways.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "I'm not planning on getting a carbon bike for street riding.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2152/Adam Rice",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are some things that you need from a good commuter bike: Robustness (so that you don't come late to work too often, and won't need a new frame after an accident) Comfort of posture (so that rides are fun) Efficiency (so that rides are fun and fast) Durability",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(the bike should live as long as possible with the least servicing as possible) Carbon frames reduce weight, as are aluminum frames supposed to do, so they have a slight efficiency advantage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Let me stress, how slight this advantage is: If you weight 70kg, and your bike weights 10kg, 1kg more for a steel frame would increase your total weight by just 1.25%.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, you don't need to carry that weight, the air in your tires does.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The extra weight means a small increase in rolling resistance, but that is dwarfed by the air resistance anyway.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'd estimate that 1kg extra weight will not decrease coasting efficiency by more than 0.5%.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "The faster you ride, the less efficiency will be lost.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So, is such a tiny increase in efficiency really worth the extra dollars?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I doubt it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "On the other hand, aluminum is more brittle than steel, and carbon fiber is much more brittle than aluminum.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "With a carbon fiber frame, every accident might be the last, a hard knock at the wrong place suffices to break a tube.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "With a steel frame, you basically need to ride full speed into a car to destroy your frame.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So, this is quite a plus in robustness for steel.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In terms of durability, both aluminum and carbon have the plus that they can't rust.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "However, a good paint job will keep a steel frame from rusting for a very long time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "My steel frame has been in heavy use for 15 years, and there's still no rust anywhere.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So, carbon gives a negligible efficiency advantage, but that's more than offset by its brittleness and high price tag.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use either steel or aluminum for commuting.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36555/cmaster - reinstate monica",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm planning to use a bike for rather short commutes (max half an hour), will the carbon fiber be noticeably more comfortable than aluminium one?",
"title": "Is it worth buying carbon fiber road bike for short commutes?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<frames><carbon>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/53802",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37101/synapse"
} | 28_47 | [
[
"For regular commuters, racking up some miles, in different kinds of weather, an aluminum or steel frame bike is better than carbon and the money saved can be spent on other items. Upgrading the seatpost, saddle, and tires will make the bike plenty comfortable. The best solution is to go and try bikes out at a bike shop to see which one feels best.",
"An aluminium or steel bike will have better components than a carbon bike for the same price. A cheaper aluminium or steel bike can be upgraded with more comfortable parts, and will be more forgiving for commuting. On short commutes, different bikes make less of a difference in comfort for riders, while considerations like durability and attractiveness to thieves are more important. If in doubt, test ride any bike you are considering purchasing. "
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"An aluminium or steel bike will have better components than a carbon bike for the same price. A cheaper aluminium or steel bike can be upgraded with more comfortable parts, and will be more forgiving for commuting.",
"On short commutes, different bikes make less of a difference in comfort for riders, while considerations like durability and attractiveness to thieves are more important.",
"If in doubt, test ride any bike you are considering purchasing."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'd say it must have a good sturdy build and should be stable.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "It must have a good pressure control and display; it should have a proper pressure range.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "It should have a good connector with detachable/replacable plugs.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "It should have a long hose, so you're not too close to the bike and make full control strokes on it.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13517/Max",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A double-sided chuck for both Presta and Schrader valves, with sturdy lever \"Universal\" chucks don't work as well and aren't as durable (IME, so not the most expensive), while the type that involve switching bits inside are one thing for carrying on the bike when space/weight is at a premium but another for workshop use.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When you use the pump to inflate a tire the pump body gets hot.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This heating up results in a temporary expansion of the body itself.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the cylinder and the base are made of two different materials (cylinder made of metal, base made of plastic) this thermal cycling can lead, in the long run, to loss of air tightness and less efficient pumping.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In the worst case the pump can simply break.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "So I personally prefer full metal body pumps.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Additionally, it is good if it has: versatile head to fit different valves pressure gauge with psi and bar reading large base to be stable during usage fair hose length",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30865/L.Dutch - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The ability to shove pressurized air into a tire :-)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Seriously, it is very hard to discern minor quality difference between pumps.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Best advice is: Look for and read reviews.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Get one that looks and feels sturdy and relatively heavy.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Avoid the cheapest 1/3 of the available models.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It may be a long way down the road, but look for a pump who manufacturer offers rebuild kits for their older models.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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]
},
{
"text": "Park pumps definitely have rebuild / service kits, as do Zefal and Silca.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However the extra cost of the premium brand might be weighed up against the value.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A Stable Base Floor pumps stand on the floor and you hold your foot on one side for stability.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "So a base that allows the pump to tip over is less useful.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "A falling pump could smash the pressure gauge, or worse, subtly uncalibrate it)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "This is more likely if the gauge is up the top.",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Don't fuss over this.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No-one makes a floor pump that only does low or high-pressure tyres.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "I've never seen one that didn't have adapters for both types of valve, and YOUR bicycle only has one type, so you won't be constantly changing over.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Yes, a floor pump is less work than the type you clip to your bike frame, but isn't part of the reason you cycle to get exercise?",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Sure, treat yourself to a floor pump.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "No need to go mad though.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19532/Laurence Payne",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It must have a valve between the cylinder and the hose, or else you will never build up a high pressure like 5 bar.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The pumps that are also suitable for car tires have such valve, because the valve on the tire is opened by the chuck.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cheap bicycle pumps that depend on the tire's own valve are useless, you are just pumping up the dead volume of the hose.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Unless you add a second valve..",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37261/StessenJ",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "There are so many options, mainly because of the own-brand alternatives. So how do I choose a good floor pump? What should I look for?",
"title": "What makes a good floor pump?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pump>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/53991",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26707/Pablo"
} | 28_48 | [
[
"A good floor pump should be stable and sturdy. It should have good pressure control and a pressure display, as well as a good connector with detachable plug and long hose. It also needs a versatile head to fit different valves. It is recommended to avoid the cheapest pumps. Reading reviews before buying is recommended.",
"It should be sturdy, compatible with different valves, with a good pressure display and quality parts. A long hose allows you to stand away from the bike while pumping. Look for good reviews and manufacturers who offer rebuild kits. Avoid the cheapest options."
]
] | {
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} | [
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] | [
[
"It should be sturdy, compatible with different valves, with a good pressure display and quality parts. A long hose allows you to stand away from the bike while pumping.",
"Look for good reviews and manufacturers who offer rebuild kits. Avoid the cheapest options."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alivio-m4000/RD-M4000.html says that derailleur will handle Low",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "sprocket_Max. 36T Low sprocket_Min. 32T ANSWER : You cannot run a 50 tooth cog with that derailleur.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might be able to use a hanger extension, but that will make the small gears even worse.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wolf Tooth's Roadlink allows up to 40 tooth, and Wolf Tooth's Tanpan says 44 or 45 tooth is the maximum cassette size supported.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Note",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "these are for 10 and 11 speed.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're absolutely stuck on a 50 tooth rear cog, then you're looking at a SRAM 12 speed Eagle setup, which will not be cheap.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cassette and shifter must change, and its very likely your freehub won't fit the cassette, and then the OLD will be too large to fit in your frame.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Not a good plan.",
"label": [
0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Derailleur will not handle that, as Criggie says in his answer.",
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"text": "Apart from that, an 11-50 9 speed would have horrifically big jumps between gear ratios.",
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"text": "1x systems only really became feasible with the advent of 11 speed drive-trains, and still sacrifice ratio jumps to get a full spread of ratios to some extent.",
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"text": "If you really want a 1x 9 speed, get a cassette a 9 speed derailleur can handle, then get a small enough chainring to give you the low gears you want, and forgo the higher gears.",
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{
"text": "BTW, Shimano provides tech specs for all their products (as Criggie linked to).",
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{
"text": "This page is a good place to start looking for specs of a particular product.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I run a shimano m4000 with a 9spd goat link on a 9spd 11-50t cassette with no problems b screw doesn’t need to be fully wound in.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "More recently, I’ve reverted to a 10spd SLX shadow+ mech sgs cage which I run with a sram x7 9spd shifter, giving even better shifting.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40653/Andy W",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have to agree with Dave - 11-36 works like a charm, gear spacing is just right.",
"label": [
1
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],
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},
{
"text": "A 11-40 cassette just works OK with the B-screw screwed in all the way or using an even longer replacement screw.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "I also tried an 11-42 which didn't really work well.",
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "AFAIC the issue with the wide range cassettes reg.",
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"text": "9-Speed is that they have the cassettes but there are no (Shimano) derailleurs to shift it.",
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{
"text": "At least not out of the box.",
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"text": "You could try a Shimano 10-speed derailleur and if it doesn't work ok (which it likely won't), try tweaking it.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "There are howtos online with re-routing the cable for a different pull ratio.",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "11-speed derailleurs might be too narrow, chain-wise.",
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],
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{
"text": "You could also use a Sram 9-speed shifter with a Shimano 10-speed derailleur.",
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-1
],
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{
"text": "Trouble is, all of these solutions are rather expensive if you haven't the parts in the spares box.",
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],
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"text": "Rather than spending that much money on an exotic 9-speed solution that doesn't get better over time, invest it in a Sunrace 11-speed cassette and Shimano SLX derailleur plus shifter.",
"label": [
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],
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1
],
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{
"text": "What you don't want is a solution based on hanging your derailleur lower and the Wolf Tooth link extensions don't work with 9-speed derailleurs.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "I tried it (and it's rather expensive too).",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Best to stick to inexpensive 11/12-36 and a 30 or 32 NW chainring.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "Or try the 11-40, but that's the max you will be able to get working properly.",
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],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40420/Simon Adventures",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "21% gear spacing is not a problem.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Shimano has over stated the need for tight ratios.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The shifting won't be quite as smooth, I have an 8spd 11-40, but will be well within acceptable standards.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "11-36 has never been a problem with 9 speeds and I usually have to double",
"label": [
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "shift my 11-36 10 spd because the ratios are too tight.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "You will have to use a hanger extender with a long cage derailleur.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The warnings that the extender doesn't allow the RDR to track the cassette properly is also over stated.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "Shimano claims they do no testing with components other than their own.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "If you believe that Shimano wouldn't know.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Obviously that is ridiculous.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Shimano has stubbornly lagged 2 to 3 years behind the market in the area of gear ranges.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "They don't belive in it and only participate well behind the market because they have no choice so pick another brand of RDR.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "There are many options.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39946/Dave",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I looked at some offerings of such cassettes and what a vendor suggests as a derailleur for them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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},
{
"text": "An example of a cassette: Compatibility chart from the same page:",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It looks that no 9- or 10-speed dérailleurs are compatible with that cassette, but they claim that some 11-speed ans 12-speed parts from both Shimano and SRAM may be used instead.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26917/Grigory Rechistov",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Box Components have released a 9-speed 11-50 drivetrain (cassette, RD, and chain) for EMTBs (thicker chain and cassette to cope with the torque), and I think the gear jump ratios don't matter when it comes to mountain biking.",
"label": [
1
],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Even Seth's Bike Hacks uses it, and he's a very nitpicky kind of guy.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "What I don't know is if it's compatible with a standard 9-speed system.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Box Components says it isn't compatible with Shimano and SRAM 9-speed systems, but I have a feeling they're just saying it for marketing purposes.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39963/Gregory Leo",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have used a RD-M2000 and 11-50 on 9 speed with hanger, but the very connection of the gear wire on the inside just touches the bigger cog when in 1 gear, otherwise ok (almost :-)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Would probably try the RD-M370 instead next time",
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],
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],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43823/Max",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm trying to understand if its possible to fit a 9-speed 11-50T cassette (found one on Ali) on my MTB. The plan is to go 1×9. The problem is that I can't seem to understand the if a specific derailleur can handle that. The rear derailleur in mind is Shimano M4000 long cage. Should I use a hanger extension? Will 11-42T be better for that? Thanks for the help",
"title": "Fitting a 9-speed 11-50T cassette on MTB: which derailleur?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><derailleur><cassette><derailleur-rear><compatibility>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/54476",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33332/user3510526"
} | 28_49 | [
[
"A number of derailleurs are recommended when fitting a 9-speed 11-50T cassette on MTB: Wolf Tooth Roadlink and Wolf Tooth Tanpan, SRAM 12 speed Eagle setup, Shimano 10-speed derailleur, Sunrace 11-speed cassette and Shimano SLX derailleur. Note that Shimano states it does not test on components other than their own.",
"A 9 speed cassette is unlikely to support a large range, so switching to an 11/12 speed might be a better option. Having said this, some commenters claim that Shimano overstates the problems with wide gear spacing, and that this setup could work with a hanger extender and long cage derailleur."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
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} | [
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[
"A 9 speed cassette is unlikely to support a large range, so switching to an 11/12 speed might be a better option.",
"Some commenters claim that Shimano overstates the problems with wide gear spacing, and that this setup could work with a hanger extender and long cage derailleur."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A group riding together and cooperating will ride to a set speed , so you'll be surging if you exceed that speed for long.",
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{
"text": "A simple wheel-magnet speedo and bike computer helps show this on your bars without being big or expensive.",
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],
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],
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"text": "An ad-hoc group will ride with varying speeds depending on who's in the front and whether they are trying to make a break away or if they're just sick of waiting for the rest of the group to cycle through the paceline.",
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"text": "Some riders need short pulls and some can cope with long pulls at the front.",
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{
"text": "Separately some people need short rests out of the wind, and some people require quite long periods behind someone else to regain their pace.",
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0
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],
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"text": "The best groups work together for the end goal which is a good training ride.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "In racing, your team is your group and the other teams are NOT your friends so they're working for themselves.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A race peloton is therefore an adhoc group of teams who are not working together.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If you face some decent climbs in your route, then groups tend to fall apart as everyone climbs at their own pace.",
"label": [
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"text": "For training and bunch rides, stop at the top and let everyone get there, then rest till the last arrival is ready to carry on.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Otherwise the first arrivals are rested while the last people are shattered and the group breaks up or is held back.",
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},
{
"text": "Same goes for downhill - strava segments work on segment time, not first-down time :)",
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},
{
"text": "More thoughts -",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A shoulder check every half minute should show you if the rest of the paceline is there still.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "If you don't have a speedo, riding to a set cadence might be enough.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Try and memorise the speed of your feet while in the paceline, and simply maintain that rhythm when you hit the front of the line.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Sing a song in your head of the right speed, or count off like marching if that works for you.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Getting expensive - there are race-radios like the pros wear.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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]
},
{
"text": "They are essentially Personal Shortrange UHF radios with an earpiece and a small transceiver in a pocket.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "The aerial/headphone cable runs up the back and is often taped on.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Some new ones are small enough to work with the helmet.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "These talk to each other in the team and to team car, who then relays messages onwards with a second radio or maybe a cellular phone.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Some are even bluetooth based and just associate with one~four other units.",
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{
"text": "Motorcycle riders might wear these under their full face helmets.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 31
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "On a sunny day you can often see the shadows without moving your head, so long as the sun isn't in front of you or too high.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I sometimes pick up wheel suckers when commuting and while my commuter bike have mirrors its possible to ride too close for the mirror, but the shadows on the road work well if it's a sunny day.",
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{
"text": "The mirror itself is a solution, but one that presumably doesn't appeal.",
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1
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[
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},
{
"text": "I'm not normally so tucked, even in the drops, but sometimes you can dip your head and look between your legs.",
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{
"text": "The garmin radar wouldn't help, but it's possible that some of the other rear alert systems could be set up - certainly rearview cameras would work.",
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1
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "You could always ask them to let you know if you drop them, by shouting.",
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1
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0
],
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[
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
"score": 14
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A bike mirror allows you to see what's behind you while you're facing ahead.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're concerned with the width of your bike during group rides, you can opt for a helmet or frame-mounted mirror rather than a handle-mounted mirror.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37655/BlueRidge",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Especially for more casual riding, motorcycle intercom systems can be a nice addition for group rides.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "It will allow you to talk easily with the other riders, who can then notify you if you are getting too far.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "And typically the range is only up to about 100 meters, so eventually you'll notice when you lose the signal.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19803/jpa",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A bar-end rear view mirror should do the trick.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Perhaps something like a \"Sprintech Left Side Mirror\".",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Low profile, and easy enough to peek behind to check on the rest of the paceline..",
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] | {
"question": "In a group ride when I'm the one pulling, I often unknowingly leave my friends behind until I turn my head and see them in far distance, then I had to slow down. Is there a way to know that they are still tailing me without turning my head every few seconds? like, does it feel different somehow? or maybe there is a way to peek that I didn't know of?",
"title": "Is there a way to know if someone is drafting behind without turning your head back or trying to hear the noises?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<road-bike><group-rides><drafting>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/54501",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/35594/Rizki Hadiaturrasyid"
} | 29_0 | [
[
"If you want to find out if the pack is still following you can do a shoulder check or dip your head to look back every few minutes. Moreover, if it is sunny, you can usually see the shadows. Alternatively, you can use a gadget, for example a mirror, radio, rearview camera or motorcycle intercom systems are options. It is also possible to set a speed and keep to it, making sure you donàt speed up if you are in front.",
"Use a rear view mirror or glance behind every half minute. On a sunny day, the shodows allowyou to see riders without turning your head too much. Groups usually ride at a set speed, so follow the speedo or remember the cadence while in the group. An intercom system allows easier communication, or riders falling behind could shout to the others to slow down."
]
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"Use a rear view mirror or glance behind every half minute. On a sunny day, the shodows allowyou to see riders without turning your head too much.",
"Groups usually ride at a set speed, so follow the speedo or remember the cadence while in the group.",
"On hills or other sections where people tend to fall behind, wait at the top for stragglers to catch up and recover.",
"An intercom system allows easier communication, or riders falling behind could shout to the others to slow down."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Simple answer:",
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"text": "yes, but it’s not worth doing.",
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},
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"text": "Cost of hub, spokes, nipples and having wheel rebuilt will exceed the cost of a new wheel.",
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"text": "Even if you re-use the spokes a new wheel will still be cheaper.",
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"text": "Wheel building requires special equipment, expertise and time to do correctly.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes - I have personally done this, by installing an 8 speed cassette freehub into a wheel that had a 6 speed freewheel.",
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{
"text": "The donor was a 26\" MTB wheel, and the recipient was a 20\" wheel for my folding bike",
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"text": "It was only worth doing because I had a donor wheel",
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"text": "and I was able to reuse the 20\" spokes well enough.",
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"text": "I even reused the 8 speed cassette and chain.",
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{
"text": "My purpose was to get access to smaller and larger gears, because the freewheel was a 14-28",
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],
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},
{
"text": "and I now have an 11-32.",
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"text": "The downsides were Assembling used parts can be a bit fiddly, might need some finangling to get things lined up.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Used parts are dirty and less fun to assemble Used parts will be worn and slightly closer to breakage than new parts.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "It took several hours to assemble, and I messed up the location of the valve hole.",
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"text": "Upside, I have a perfectly working, true, QR-based, 8 speed 20\" rear wheel and that bike has 2000 km on it now.",
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"text": "You'll need parts and some normal bike repair tools: Spoke nipple tool and probably some spare nipples Cassette removal tools - chain whip and lockring tool Freewheel removal tools - a bench vise and a freewheel tool, OR a grinder with a cutting wheel",
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},
{
"text": "(mine was a non-removable chinese thing hence power tools) Chain tool Lubes",
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{
"text": "Either a truing stand, or some way to use your bike frame/fork to true the wheel.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Feel free to ask further clarification questions.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 7
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As the others have already stated: Yes, it is possible, but ...",
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"text": "However, I feel that the really important message has not been transported yet: Building a wheel is not easy for the uninitiated.",
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"text": "Yes, it can be done.",
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"text": "Yes, you will likely get something that looks like a true wheel.",
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"text": "But you may easily end up with many broken spokes the weeks after.",
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"text": "The critical part about building a wheel is, that you need to apply even tension to the spokes.",
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"text": "Fail to do so, and they may break very quickly.",
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"text": "And with even tension, I really mean very even.",
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"text": "It won't suffice that they feel evenly tensioned to the touch, the tolerances are surprisingly small.",
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"text": "If you have a musical ear, that helps a lot, as you can just tune your spokes (that's what I do, at least).",
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"text": "However, doing so takes time.",
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"text": "Time that may be better spent on other pursuits.",
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"text": "After all, when you adjust the tension of one spoke, 35 other spokes have their tensions changed slightly as well...",
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"text": "That said, building a rear-wheel with a cassette is an additional challenge, as you need to build it asymmetrically.",
"label": [
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"text": "Consequently, the spokes on one side need a much higher tension than on the other side.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "With the tuning approach, that's two different tones, the exact pitch of which depends on the geometry that you aim for.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "So, if your goal is to get to know how your bike is built, go for it .",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "You can learn it.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "But expect to pay for these skills with a significant amount of time, and likely broken spokes.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "If your goal is just to save a penny, think twice : buying a new wheel may save more in terms of time than you can save in money by building yourself, and the bought wheel has less risk of failing quickly.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Of course, this economic consideration heavily depends on the price tags of the parts that you are trying to save.",
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"text": "If your rim costs 500$, you better keep it, no matter how much time you need to invest into building the wheel.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "However, for a standard, off-the-shelf 20$ rim, buying a whole wheel is very likely the more economic option.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36555/cmaster - reinstate monica",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Of course it is possible, you're simply building a new wheel with some used and some new parts.",
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"text": "Unless we are talking about carbon rims where the spokes are glued and the wheel is trued in the factory already.",
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"text": "When doing that take the following into consideration: is the new hub as high as the old one (you have high flange hubs) - if not, new spokes will be needed new hub (the one accepting a cassette) will be asymmetrical - spokes on the non-drive side will reach to the very outside of the whole assembly while the spokes on the drive side will reach to like 2/3 of the complete assembly width as there needs to be some room for the cassette.",
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"text": "Most likely the spokes you have will be too long and will protrude through the nipples.",
"label": [
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"text": "Either you need to buy a new set of spokes or trim the existing ones is your rim in good condition - when using rim brakes the rim should be replaced once it is worn out if all the spokes and nipples can be reused",
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"text": "- I hope you won't break any of those while disassembling if you are using the nipple washers, you most likely need a new set once the wheel is laced, it needs to be trued and dished - either you outsource it to someone with proper tools and expertise or you do it yourself",
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"text": "(a truing stand is almost a must) Good luck!",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34697/Mike",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
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"text": "Yes, one can do this.",
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"text": "But you ask \"Can I ...?\"",
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"text": "(my emphasis) and the answer is \"probably not, at least not right now.",
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"text": "\" Please don't take this the wrong way, but building a wheel requires a lot of skill and equipment and the fact that you're asking the question suggests that you don't have those.",
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"text": "Unless you're dealing with a particularly high-end wheel, rebuilding it will be more expensive than just buying a complete wheel, especially once you factor in the value of your time.",
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"text": "However, if you want to learn how to build wheels as a hobby project, then go for it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13174/David Richerby",
"score": 3
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] | {
"question": "I have a freewheel and I keep bending the axle, however the rim, spokes and tire are all fine, does anyone think it would be possible to unscrew the spokes, buy a new hub that has a freehub, install that with maybe new spokes and my previous rim? (And also buy a cassette) because I don't see the point in buying a whole new wheel just for the hub.",
"title": "Could I replace a hub on a wheel?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<mountain-bike><wheels><freewheel><axle><freehub>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/55447",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38300/Jeffrey"
} | 29_1 | [
[
"It is cheaper to buy a new wheel than build one from parts. Building a wheel also requires a great deal of skill. It is worth doing if you want to learn the skills but not worth it if you are thinking of saving money.",
"It is possible, but usually too expensive or time consuming compared with replacing the whole wheel. It is possible to do it yourself, and can teach you about the bike, but it is a skilled job and increases the risk of wheel failure. Correct tension and alignment are important, so the right tools and a truing stand are necessary. Some of the spokes and nipple washers may break and need to be replaced."
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"It is possible, but usually too expensive or time consuming compared with replacing the whole wheel. It is possible to do it yourself, and can teach you about the bike, but it is a skilled job and increases the risk of wheel failure.",
"Correct tension and alignment are important, so the right tools and a truing stand are necessary. Some of the spokes and nipple washers may break and need to be replaced."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Generally helmets are recommended for carrier usage by manufacturers and governing bodies, although local cultural practices may vary depending on perceived risks.",
"label": [
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"text": "Helmets are recommended because it is still possible to crash or even roll a trailer, just as it is possible to crash on a bicycle, even if you are riding slowly and in quiet areas.",
"label": [
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"text": "While children should be wearing seat belts within the carrier/trailer, the structures would not provide adequate protection against head injuries, making helmets the last line of defense against a head injury in the case of a crash.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "We opted for helmeting our kid whenever we use the trailer in bicycle mode (i.e. not as a pram).",
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"text": "This is why: Our neighbours managed to flip over their trailer once.",
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"text": "Kid got a nasty bump on the head, despite having been strapped in.",
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"text": "Establish from the start that bicycles and helmets go together, no discussion.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "No, your kid does not need a helmet, if you have a proper trailer.",
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"text": "Proper trailers do have belts and rollover protection.",
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"text": "If you don't wear a helmet in your car, you don't need one in a trailer.",
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"text": "Smaller kids without proper neck muscles should be seated in a special seat (like the fitting car seats), which doesn't permit helmets.",
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"text": "Manufacturer advice is mixed: Croozer explicitly states the lack of need for helmet protection inside its trailers, Weber advises a helmet a protection against hitting the side or the other kid (Ritschies are two seated models).",
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"text": "As you state to live in southern Germany: if you travel to Austria, helmets are obligatory, even in trailers, until the age of 12.",
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"label_summ": [
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},
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"text": "Opinion : I find the focus on head injuries in biking excessive.",
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"text": "For trailers a very sturdy base",
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"text": "tub",
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"text": "(trailer is hit or trailer is damaged from below) and a secured connection (accidental separation at high speeds or on hard braking) is so much more important to avoid severe injuries.",
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},
{
"text": "Unfortunately the last systematic test by Stiftung Warentest is quite old now (2010).",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38392/Leonidas",
"score": 13
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I mainly go with @Leonidas: no helmet for children inside.",
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"text": "We have a quality trailer (from Chariot).",
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},
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"text": "I like my children not to wear a helmet in the trailer because: A helmet puts their head in an uncomfortable position (pushes headsdown)",
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"text": "They may cause (smaller) injuries to their sibling next to them",
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},
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"text": "In an accident, the inertia of the helmet may cause a whiplash injury.",
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"text": "Just to emphasize: This is highly controversial where I live (Switzerland).",
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"text": "I even do not agree with my wife on this.",
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"text": "As a fact Helmets are not required by law on a bicycle or in a trailer.",
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"text": "I too prefer a helmet, but many children that are well within the weight limit are too tall to fit inside with a helmet on (mine, for example, age 4).",
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"text": "Most trailers have a 5 point harness and a frame that acts as a roll cage, which combine to reduce the need for a helmet.",
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"text": "I'm with the others in saying that a helmet is a good idea.",
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"text": "Not only in the event of a crash, but also just in getting in the habit of wearing a helmet while out on the bike.",
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"text": "For what it's worth, Ontario law requires that all riders under the age of 18 wear a helmet whether they be on a bike, in a carrier or towed in a trailer.",
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"text": "If I had a child in a trailer, I would put a helmet on them.",
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"text": "Not as much needed as in a child seat, but still an added security factor.",
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"text": "The kid could bash their head on the struture in a sudden movement of the trailer.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38357/Gabriel C.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Always get your child to wear a helmet, rolled the trailer Sunday with my 3-year old grandson inside and he had the worst head wound I have ever seen.",
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"text": "Horrific.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45307/Paul Hallett",
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"sents": [
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"text": "we have a 12 month old baby and a Burley Solo.",
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"text": "Where we live there is no mandatory rules on helmet wearing for any ages (which is a shame).",
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"text": "I am 100% on board with our baby wearing a helmet.",
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"text": "Although the construction is sturdy, and there is a quality belt system, I believe there are too many unknown scenarios to depend solely on the safety/contruction of the trailer and my ability to avoid an accident.",
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"text": "So the baby (as well as me) wears a helmet.",
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"text": "I agree the car analogy is erroneous, they are two completely different environments.",
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"text": "I agree that wearing a helmet from the get-go will hopefully instill this practice as a norm for the future.",
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"text": "Additionally the Burley Solo has extra space behind the head specifically for the helmet bulk.",
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] | {
"question": "I am thinking about buying a trailer for my 1yo daughter. They are quite common in my region (southern Germany) but I haven't seen a single kid with a helmet inside. I know that there is no law that regulates it. Does trailer's manual ask to wear a helmet? Or are there any official (not necessary German) recommendations about wearing it?",
"title": "Does toddler need a helmet inside a bicycle trailer?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<helmets><trailer>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/55558",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38378/Raz"
} | 29_2 | [
[
"There ia a lack of consensus on whether children should wear helmets in trailers or not. Some people believe the safey harness and special seat for very young children combined with the structure of the trailer is safe enough. It would seem that regulations also differ from country to country: in Austria, for example, helmets are obligatory. However, the majority of people seem to think it is better for a child to wear a helmet inside a trailer for extra safety. Although, some trailers do not seem to have enough space for the child to sit comfortably with a helmet on. Finally, wearing a helmet from an early age may encourage the practice later on.",
"Arguments against wearing a helmet in a trailer include the existing protection systems and the possibility that a helmet could put a child's head in an uncomfortable position and even cause injuries in a crash. Many trailers have a space that allows a child to be properly seated while using a helmet, so discomfort is not as likely. However, these harnesses are not as secure as those on a car seat, and there is a greater chance of rolling or children hitting their head on the side or another child's head. In addition, helmets are a legal requirement in some countries. Using a helmet whenever the child is on a bike, child seat or trailer trains them to use a helmet in the future."
]
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"Arguments against wearing a helmet in a trailer include the existing protection systems and the possibility that a helmet could put a child's head in an uncomfortable position and even cause injuries in a crash.",
"However, these harnesses are not as secure as those on a car seat, and there is a greater chance of rolling or children hitting their head on the side or another child's head. In addition, helmets are a legal requirement in some countries.",
"Using a helmet whenever the child is on a bike, child seat or trailer trains them to use a helmet in the future."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Any bike with a comfortable seat, upright riding position and low ratio gears.",
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"text": "This is pretty much the definition of a 'cruiser' style bike.",
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"text": "Many hybrids, less expensive mountain bikes and fatbikes would fit the requirement too.",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "You could consider a 3-wheeled recumbent bicycle : Photo courtesy of Willeke",
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"text": "These tend to be more comfortable, and the three wheels mean balance is not an issue, so you can go slowly or stop altogether without any balance issues.",
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"text": "(Note that there are also two-wheeled recumbents, but they would probably not serve your purposes as well.)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You might want to consider a fat-bike.",
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"text": "They're naturally slower, because they're meant for really rough terrain, so they have low gearing, high frame mass to be sturdy and higher rolling resistance due to the fat wheels.",
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"text": "The fat wheels also make them pretty stable.",
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"text": "Plus, if you're so inclined, after you don't need it for going slow anymore, you can keep on using it to do completely different kind of biking than your existing road bike:",
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"text": "rough off-road.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/31794/tylisirn",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Get a \"mountain bike\" rather than a road bike.",
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"text": "It's what I think of as a normal bike anyway, but they don't go as fast.",
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"text": "It's easier to keep your balance on them too.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38559/Matt Dickinson",
"score": 2
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "A cargo tricycle?",
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{
"text": "Bonus is that you can save gas getting groceries with it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13605/WGroleau",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Generally speaking, a bicycle with a longer wheelbase will be more stable when ridden slowly.",
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"text": "Those designed for quick maneuvers are generally very short (criterium) wheelbase designs.",
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"text": "But the tradeoff is, of course, that the long wheelbase makes those quick direction changes a bit more difficult.",
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"text": "Modern bikes tend to have straight forks and very steep head angles (where the fork attaches to the frame).",
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"text": "Both of these shorten the wheelbase and make the bike more \"responsive\" aka \"twitchy.\"",
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"text": "Shallow angles and curved forks go the other way.",
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"text": "Stability and comfort.",
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"text": "I hate to recommend anyone get a heavy bike, but there is some effect.",
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"text": "The lighter the bicycle, the higher the center of gravity overall (i.e. you).",
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"text": "On the other hand, track riders can ride slowly, even stand in place.",
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"text": "They do this with skill and the lack of a freewheel.",
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"text": "You can even ride backwards on a track bike.",
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"text": "These bikes are also twitchy in the extreme.",
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"text": "But it is rider skill.",
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"text": "With enough practice you can learn to \"stand on the pedals\".",
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"text": "That is, balance the bike in place, though with a freewheel you need to also use the brakes You've probably seen people doing this when stopped at a light, balanced upright.",
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"text": "I have a foldable bike which is quite comfy at low speeds (especially so probably due to the low CG).",
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"text": "With the added advantage that you can transport it easily to kid friendly bike paths.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38471/Karthik T",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I enjoy my road bike, but recently my children have become old enough to ride, but still very slowly. I'd like to be able to ride with them on all or mostly flat pavement, but the road bike just isn't pleasant for slow riding as it takes more effort to balance and isn't that comfortable. What type(s) of bike is well-suited for very slow comfortable riding like this?",
"title": "Is there a bicycle designed for slow riding?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<product-rec><comfort>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/55816",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2313/user37078"
} | 29_3 | [
[
"Any bike with a comfortable seat, upright riding position and low ratio gears will be more comfortable for slow riding. Many hybrids, less expensive mountain bikes and fatbikes would fit the requirement, as would a 3-wheeled recumbent bicycle, foldable bike or a cargo tricycle. Generally speaking, a bike with a low center of gravity.",
"Slower bikes allow a more upright riding position, a comfortable seat and more stability. They also have lower ratio gears. Some choices include cruisers, 'fat bikes', hybrids, mountain bikes nad tricycles. A low centre of gravity and long wheelbase is more stable, but the long wheelbase makes quick direction changes more difficult."
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"Slower bikes allow a more upright riding position, a comfortable seat and more stability. They also have lower ratio gears. Some choices include cruisers, 'fat bikes', hybrids, mountain bikes nad tricycles.",
"A low centre of gravity and long wheelbase is more stable, but the long wheelbase makes quick direction changes more difficult."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is a cottered crank .",
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"text": "The chainrings are fixed to the crank and can not be moved to another, but you can replace the entire bottom bracket (combination of axle and bearings) and crankset.",
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"text": "There should be no need to replace the front derailleur.",
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"text": "There is a risk that the bottom bracket shell is threade for an obsolete standard.",
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"text": "To make any guesses if that is the case, we'd need to know the brand of the bike and width of the bottom bracket shell part of frame without any parts that are screwed in.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "To add to ojs's answer.",
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"text": "You can replace the bottom bracket and crank with a inexpensive set.",
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"text": "You just need to match the chainring tooth-counts.",
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"text": "The cheaper cranksets use a square taper axle.",
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"text": "The only problem you will encounter is selecting the correct axle length to laterally position the chainrings properly.",
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"text": "To do this you will want to know the chain-line measurement .",
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"text": "This is the distance from the centerline of the frame to the center of the mid-point between the two chainrings.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Looking at that bottom bracket, hopefully it uses some type of freewheel removal tool to remove the cups.",
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"text": "If not good luck finding the tool.",
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"text": "Honestly on a bike like this, I'd just replace the bike.",
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"text": "If you indeed want to fix it, first step is removing that bb.",
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{
"text": "Seconds, get a bb, and a crankset with similar sized chainrings.",
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{
"text": "Bb spindle length should be matched to crankset you buy.",
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"text": "Chainline will be off 2mm",
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{
"text": "but it won't be an issue.",
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"text": "As your bike is probably 126mm rear axle spaced and more modern bikes are 130mm.",
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{
"text": "Third try to make it shift.",
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},
{
"text": "Replace front derailleur or chain if needed.",
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"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
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"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is a bit of challenge.",
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},
{
"text": "That chainring design looks familiar, may be an old Nevar or Stronglight.",
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-1
],
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},
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"text": "This appears to be French and cottered.",
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],
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"text": "If I remember correctly, several sizes of cotters, English, French, and something else.",
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"text": "French are narrow and longer pins The bottom bracket, cups, bearings and races are most likely French spec.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Very difficult to find, so try to find in it either France or UK.",
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],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "Good luck.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39026/JoeWest",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "What has not been said yet is that seeing the threads on the spindle (axle) I'm 99.9% sure that it is a cottered bottom bracket with threadless shell.",
"label": [
1
],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Unless this frame has substantial emotional value, replacing the bottom bracket is not worth economically.",
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],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Nevertheless, there are square-taper sets with sealed bearings and threadless nylon cups available in Europe for about €15.",
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1
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I've fitted one myself (with huge success until now) on my Russian-made Ural bike",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "and it's holding amazingly well.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The idea for me was to benefit from square-taper (in my experience less maintenance and more reliability than cotters).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34697/Mike",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "Can someone help me identify this crankset type? And is it possible to replace only the cranks (and their axle) without replacing the chainwheel/front derailleur?",
"title": "What kind of crankset is this?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<crankset>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/56536",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39017/mkolarek"
} | 29_4 | [
[
"The crankset in question is a cottered crank. It can be fixed by replacing the bottom bracket and crank and without replacing the front derailleur.",
"This is a cottered crank, and will need to be replaced along with the bottom bracket if you want to change the gears. You may not need to change the front derailleur, but the new chainrings and axle should be compatible with the gear system. The bottom brackets of older bikes are removed in different ways, and replacing the bike may be preferable."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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] | [
[
"This is a cottered crank, and will need to be replaced along with the bottom bracket if you want to change the gears.",
"You may not need to change the front derailleur, but the new chainrings and axle should be compatible with the gear system.",
"The bottom brackets of older bikes are removed in different ways, and replacing the bike may be preferable."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Centerlock largely exists because since the beginning of modern disc brakes for bikes, Shimano has more or less alone had a weird cautionary take on the physics of rotor bolts theoretically being able to loosen in the six-bolt design.",
"label": [
1
],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "That's why their six-bolt rotors have always come with various retention systems for the bolts that nobody else bothers with.",
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],
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"text": "Centerlock doesn't accomplish anything special and doesn't allow for lighter hubs or rotors (at least in a meaningful sense).",
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"text": "Shimano rotors are excellent so it's not",
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"text": "like you're trapped if you have centerlock hubs, but you do have fewer options, and centerlock rotors are inherently more expensive at the low end because they can't just be flat pieces of steel.",
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"text": "Centerlock has the disadvantage that carrying a lockring tool plus something to turn it isn't practical, so the best you can do if you severely bend a rotor on a ride is undo the caliper mounting bolts and try to hang the caliper out of the way, which is awkward.",
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"text": "Even though the risk here is small and theoretical, it's enough of a potential day ruiner that given centerlock has little to no functional advantage, there's an argument to avoid it if all else is equal.",
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"text": "The catch is that all else is often not equal, because Shimano hubs are some of the best value choices.",
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"text": "Six-bolt does have the disadvantage that bolts getting seized, heads getting stripped, and/or",
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"text": "hub threads getting damaged are all things that happen sometimes, whereas centerlock tends to be free from any such problems.",
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"text": "Having one big high-torque fastener does create a more reliable interface in that sense.",
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"text": "But it's a pretty fringe concern; six-bolt is perfectly robust and very few people will ever have to deal a seized rotor bolt.",
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"text": "However, in all fairness it can be a difficult enough problem to deal with when it does happen that centerlock usually looks pretty good by the second hour in.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/25959/Nathan Knutson",
"score": 20
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Advantages of 6-bolt: Not being patented by Shimano means more vendors offer compatible wheels/disks.",
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"text": "Torx bolts require a smaller tool which is often included in many multi-tools so one can always have one on the road.",
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"text": "Advantages of Centerlock: Faster installation and removal with a cassette tool; no need to fiddle with 6 separate bolts",
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],
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"text": "No need to have an extra tool, use the same cassette removal tool.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26917/Grigory Rechistov",
"score": 12
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A couple more pros of centre lock: Finned rotors",
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},
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"text": "One big difference is that you can't get the finned Shimano Ice-Tech rotors used on the road bike groupsets in a 6-bolt configuration.",
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"text": "E.g: or I've had brake fade on my Shimano RS685/785",
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"text": "set up on descents in Wales and wanted to try the finned rotors, but my hubs are 6-bolt.",
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"text": "You can make a centre lock rotor take a 6 bolt rotor, but not the other way round",
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"text": "This is pro and a con:",
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"text": "Shimano do an adaptor to run 6 bolt rotors on a centre-lock hub (SM-RTAD05), which is great for choice.",
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"text": "But, I'd be slightly wary of this approach, because any misalignment or opportunities for vibration in a disc brake setup can cause brake squealing or shudder, and while I'm sure Shimano have tested these adaptors very well, it's a fair engineering assumption that the more interfaces and separate parts there are the more chances for misalignment there are.",
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"text": "For me, I'd go 6 bolt on a mountain bike, because of the wider availability of 6 bolt rotors and the trail-side repairability, but centre locks on a road bike for the increased cooling and",
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"text": "because they look a bit neater next to the more delicate road bike forks/chainstays",
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"text": "(that last reason is subjective!).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24862/tomRedox",
"score": 11
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One disadvantage of 6 bolt is that you can torque one side just a bit more than the other which can cause the rotor to be just a bit warped.",
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"text": "Center-lock torques evenly by design",
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"text": "so there’s no risk.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11160/RoboKaren",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you’ve ever stripped a torx bolt on a 6-bolt, you will have your answer for why people run centerlock.",
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"text": "I will add a small disadvantage to centerlock is boost conversion on the rear.",
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"text": "MRP sells kits for the front that use a caliper adapter to offset the rotor on the front, but nobody sells conversions for centerlock rears.",
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1
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"text": "You could in theory convert it to 6-bolt and then use the boost adapters, but 2 adapter kits is where I draw the line and sell my sweet DT 240.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38904/Cole Inman",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Adding to existing answers ...",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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},
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"text": "6 bolt rotors can be shimmed to make rotors on two different wheels fit in the calipers without having to re-align.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "That's not possible on center-lock hubs.",
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0
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I am having a new set of wheels built, and am trying to decide on whether to go with 6-bolt or centre-lock rotor interface. What are the pros and cons of the two systems?",
"title": "6-bolt vs centre-lock: pros and cons?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><wheels><disc-brake><hub><rotor>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/56879",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11228/NPE"
} | 29_5 | [
[
"S0: Centerlock largely exists because since the beginning of modern disc brakes for bikes, Shimano has more or less alone had a weird cautionary take on the physics of rotor bolts theoretically being able to loosen in the six-bolt design. Centerlock doesn't accomplish anything special and doesn't allow for lighter hubs or rotors (at least in a meaningful sense). Having one big high-torque fastener does create a more reliable interface in that sense. One disadvantage of 6 bolt is that you can torque one side just a bit more than the other which can cause the rotor to be just a bit warped. You can make a centre lock rotor take a 6 bolt rotor, but not the other way round ",
"Centrelock offers more even torque and a more reliable interface, but is no lighter than 6 bolt systems. Centrelock is only offered by Shimano and is more expensive, but the quality is good and the system is more easily adapted to 6 bolt than the other way around."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"Centrelock offers more even torque and a more reliable interface, but is no lighter than 6 bolt systems.",
"Centrelock is only offered by Shimano and is more expensive, but the quality is good and the system is more easily adapted to 6 bolt than the other way around."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "That sucks.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "I'm sorry that your bike was stolen.",
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "If thieves are willing to break into a locked garage, break into a locked and fully enclosed mesh bike parking area then cut two bike locks using power tools: there's not much you can do about it.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
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},
{
"text": "If there are lots of bikes in the bike parking area you can make your bike a lower priority target by increasing the number and strength of the locks, and by making the bike itself look less desirable.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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"text": "Looking at the first picture, it seems the bike parking area door could be easily opened from the inside.",
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],
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{
"text": "The thieves were able to cut a hole in the door and reach the door release - not the most secure setup.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Also, it's likely that someone let them into the garage - i.e. one of your neighbors.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Just store your bike in your apartment if you can.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
}
],
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 26
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There's nothing you can do if the storage area is not under constant surveillance.",
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1
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"text": "It can take as little as 2 minutes to grind a U-Lock.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
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"text": "The only real solution is to keep your bike in your apartment.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "In the meantime, check to know how the thief was able to get in that area ?",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "did he came via the garage door ?",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "the front door ?",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Did he enter while someone enter or leave without checking ?",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Check with your home insurances to see what can be done about that, if the building is responsible in some way.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "Anecdotal: When I come in my building, if someone is waiting to be let in, I tell them to wait outside and wait and not come at the same time as I do and if I leave by the garage, I wait until the door is closed before either leaving or going down the ramp.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13517/Max",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I lost a few bikes to theft when I was in university.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It stunk.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I took to buying used bikes (probably from bike thieves).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wrapped the frame tubes of my (otherwise nice) bike in peelable masking tape, then smeared them with grease.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Nobody wanted that ugly bike.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It worked to prevent theft; I kept that one for many years.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/27181/O. Jones",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Funny enough, the parking garage may actually be less safe than a well-exposed outside location.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "When I was commuting between the cities of Hamburg and Berlin",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I locked my (500/1000$) bikes at the train stations, sometimes for weeks.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I made sure to detach and lock my front wheel together with the back wheel and frame though, on some steel pole or railing, with a good-quality U lock.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just one time in two years or so somebody stole my suspended saddle post.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Both stations have their share of homeless and drug-addicted people hanging around; but the places are busy 24/7.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I suppose your average friction saw creates too many sparks at night to go unnoticed in public; but in a parking garage the thieves have all the time in the world.",
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"text": "So try the next intersection next time.",
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"text": "And yes, use a bike which is not a special target.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23487/Peter - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "There are motion sensors (installed on your bike) and locks that can notify you if your bike is being moved.",
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"text": "I don't have direct experience with them, and they're obviously expensive, so you'll need to decide whether something like that is worth it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2152/Adam Rice",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Check the quality of your locks !",
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"text": "I suspect both to be breakable with a bolt cutter (yes, your u-lock too).",
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"text": "You will learn more here : For owners, a second option is more onerous, but will not benefit only to you.",
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"text": "Install a camera.",
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],
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"text": "Put it high enough to reduce the risk of being destroyed.",
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"text": "Be sure to have access to data even if it is destroyed.",
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"text": "This may even protect the whole garage, not only bikes.",
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] | {
"question": "I park my bike in my building's bicycle room, in the parking garage in the basement. The garage door can only be opened with a remote fob, and the bicycle room is locked as well. In the garage, I secure my bike using a U-lock, and a chain lock. This morning, I came to find a hole in the door, and the two locks cut by what looks like an electrical saw. What can I do to avoid that should I buy a new bike?",
"title": "How can I prevent my next bike from being stolen?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<security><theft>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/57085",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39446/Maxime"
} | 29_6 | [
[
"The safest place to keep your bike is in your house or apartment. However, if this is not possible, there are some things you can do to make your bike less of a target. First, make your bike less desirable than the ones around it. Use a number of locks on your bike that are difficult to break. You can also motion sensors so you are alerted if your bike is being moved. Garages and bike stores should have some sort of surveillance. However, in the end, if thieves are very determined there is little way to stop them.",
"If thieves are willing to cut their way into a locked basement and cut open two locks, no lock is likely to stop them for long. Unlike in a public area, they have time to work without people seeing them. You can use stronger locks, but the only safe solution is to put the bike in your apartment. You can use a camera or motion sensing system to monitor your bike, and try to avoid making your bike an attractive target. Be aware of ways that thieves can gain access to the room. Finally, find out whether your home insurance will cover this loss."
]
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[
"If thieves are willing to cut their way into a locked basement and cut open two locks, no lock is likely to stop them for long. Unlike in a public area, they have time to work without people seeing them. You can use stronger locks, but the only safe solution is to put the bike in your apartment.",
"You can use a camera or motion sensing system to monitor your bike, and try to avoid making your bike an attractive target. Be aware of ways that thieves can gain access to the room. ",
"Find out whether your home insurance will cover this loss."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In terms of wearing out the brakes, they will wear less when you brake at the bottom.",
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"text": "When you descend a hill you have a fixed amount of energy to lose, and when you descend at a higher speed, a larger proportion of that energy is lost to wind resistance.",
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"text": "Practically however, brake pads/blocks tend to last a long time and are cheap to replace, wear is not really something to consider too much.",
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"text": "It's better to descend safely at a speed you feel comfortable with.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14027/Andy P",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "One should not trade their safety for prolonging brake pads life.",
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"text": "Thus gaining the speed and hoping to lose it at the very end of the ride is not the wisest thing to do.",
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"text": "Having said that the question is rather whether to: lightly but constantly brake maintaining more or less constant speed; or gain some speed, brake hard, repeat",
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"text": "I'd opt for the latter since it allows the rims or discs to cool down thus having them ready and at considerable efficiency",
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"text": "should you suddenly need them.",
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{
"text": "Furthermore, you can analyse the evolution of the roller brakes -",
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"text": "the latter the generation",
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{
"text": "the larger the radiator for the drum -",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "it was observed that on longer descends when the brakes were partly engaged, they did overheat and lose their braking capability.",
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{
"text": "With larger radiators they did overheat, much later (if ever) though.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34697/Mike",
"score": 43
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are really two optimal solutions: Go as fast as you dare , perhaps slightly braking, maximize your frontal area (thereby maximizing air resistance) then brake at the end quickly.",
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"text": "The idea here is that you are obtaining part of the braking force from air resistance due to the maximized frontal area and maximized speed.",
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"text": "Go very, very slowly, braking all the time .",
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"text": "The idea here is that the slower you descend, the less the braking power needed is.",
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"text": "Power is force times velocity; force stays the same for a given hill, but velocity is something you can affect.",
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"text": "Because braking power is lower, the heat dissipation required per unit time is lower, and thus, brake temperature is lower.",
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"text": "The interim solution, by continuously braking at an intermediate speed, a speed at which air resistance isn't major braking factor but a speed at which the brakes are heated above the boiling point of water is the problematic strategy.",
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"text": "It can cause very fast brake pad wear.",
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"text": "Depends on the hill which of there strategies should be used.",
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"text": "The problem with the first one is that if the hill is very steep, chances are you may not descend at a speed that would offer good air resistance to dissipate majority of the energy.",
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"text": "So, you have to estimate if you dare to choose the first strategy.",
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"text": "And remember to use both front and rear brakes so that you have more heat dissipation capacity.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33932/juhist",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This question is about whether you should execute the bicycle equivalent of a suicide burn.",
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"text": "It is faster and more energy-efficient to brake as hard as you can as late as possible than to control your speed early.",
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{
"text": "For a rocket this means sparing fuel, for your brakes this means producing less heat.",
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{
"text": "Do note that the name doesn't come from nowhere.",
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"text": "It's too dangerous to depend on your maximum thrust to not slam into an hard object like the Moon at highway speeds, rockets generally do control their rate of descent early on.",
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"text": "The other consideration is that your brakes are much better at dissipating when not in contact with the disc, so even if you brake early, it's better to break harder but not continuously.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39870/Kafein",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some modern disc brake systems feature special cooling fins to keep the temperatures in check.",
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"text": "Greater speeds cause improved flow of air around these fins, thus improving their ability to dissipate heat.",
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"text": "Letting your speed grow until you apply the brakes cools them down, whereas constantly applying them a bit would result in constant heat generation without the same cooling benefits.",
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"text": "Basically all the heat your brakes generate must be dissipated to the air around your bike, so this applies to brakes without these fins too, although it's far more noticeable with the fins.",
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"text": "I recommend braking down whenever you feel you're about to go too fast for your own comfort, then letting go of the brakes for a while and repeating this until you're at the bottom.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/39798/Walto Salonen",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "You are at the top of a hill and want to stop at the bottom. What is best for your brakes so you don't wear them down: brake continuously; or brake when you reach the bottom?",
"title": "What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><wear>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/57600",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/37756/Claudiu Creanga"
} | 29_7 | [
[
"In terms of wearing out the brakes, they will wear less when you brake at the bottom. Practically however, brake pads/blocks tend to last a long time and are cheap to replace, wear is not really something to consider too much. It's better to descend safely at a speed you feel comfortable with. One should not trade their safety for prolonging brake pads life.",
"Keeping the pads touching the rims heats them up from friction and prevents airflow from cooling them down. For this reason, braking at the bottom or once you reach a certain speed would reduce heat and wear. Practically though, brakes are cheap and fairly long lasting, so you should not compromise safety to avoid wear. Modern brakes use cooling fins and are better at dissipating heat, so wear and loss of effectiveness are less of a concern."
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"Keeping the pads touching the rims heats them up from friction and prevents airflow from cooling them down. For this reason, braking at the bottom or once you reach a certain speed would reduce heat and wear.",
"Practically though, brakes are cheap and fairly long lasting, so you should not compromise safety to avoid wear. Modern brakes use cooling fins and are better at dissipating heat, so wear and loss of effectiveness are less of a concern."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "This question gets asked quite often.",
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"text": "The short answer is that you can do long distance rides on basically any bicycle as long as it’s comfortable for you.",
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"text": "There are a few things you can do to your bicycle to make it more efficient and easier:",
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"text": "Make sure your seating position is good.",
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"text": "Especially that your saddle is high enough.",
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"text": "This will improve power output and reduce risk of knee pain/injuries.",
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"text": "Reduce air resistance by lowering the handlebar.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you have front suspension, lock it (or get a rigid fork).",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Wear tight fitting bicycle clothes.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Keep it well maintained.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Get road bike tires with low rolling resistance.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Get clipless pedals and shoes.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the end the most important part will still be training.",
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"text": "Training for long distance rides basically boils down to riding a lot.",
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"text": "During long rides nutrition (and of course hydration) is also very important.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19529/Michael",
"score": 9
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"sents": [
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"text": "You can certainly do Brevet Populaires (100 km).",
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"text": "Plenty of people do them on all sorts of bikes.",
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"text": "I've seen a few people on flat bars on Brevets de Randonneurs 200 in the UK, including an MTB with knobbly tyres ( the one with the backpack in this picture ).",
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"text": "Hybrids on these rides tend to be set up as flat bar road bikes, i.e. smoothish tyres around 25-35 mm and to have gearing comparable to a tourer.",
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"text": "I don't think I've seen flat bars on a 300 (but I'm doing one tomorrow",
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"text": "so I'll try to remember to look out for them).",
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"text": "You might end up as a full-value rider (i.e. close to the time limit) especially if there's a headwind, but no-one will think any the worse of you for your choice of bike.",
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"text": "One day I may do a 100 on my hybrid but not with its current saddle - hybrid saddles can be rather fat and chafe.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7309/Chris H",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In practice, most people find hybrids rather uncomfortable for long rides.",
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"text": "What \"long\" means varies from person to person so, to a large extent, you'll just have to try going on longer and longer rides until you find out what your body is comfortable with.",
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"text": "I would note, though, that 40 minutes at the 11mph you said you average in your other question is a long way from brevet-style riding.",
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"text": "Don't try to run before you can walk.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13174/David Richerby",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Two summers ago I rode 1,300 miles around Lake Superior on a Trek Verve 2, averaging about 70 miles a day.",
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"text": "I am over 60 years old, and I like a more comfortable ride at this stage.",
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"text": "The more durable tire of a hybrid came in handy when I needed to navigate rougher terrain.",
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},
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"text": "These days I am riding a Specialized Cross Trail on long rides.",
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{
"text": "I love it.",
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"text": "Last year I rode the Houston MS-150 on a hybrid.",
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"text": "This year some guy rode it on a penny-farthing.",
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"text": "Your bike should be no problem, as long as it's a bike that fits you.",
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"text": "My experience is that pretty much any bike can do pretty much any type of ride (within reason; a track bike cannot do mud racing, for example).",
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"text": "I’ve done a 160 km ride (60 km sportive, 20 km to get there and 80 km to get home) on a fixed gear bike with narrow raiser bars.",
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},
{
"text": "That worked fine.",
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{
"text": "Was it the ideal bike for such a long ride through mostly countryside?",
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{
"text": "Certainly not.",
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"text": "But it was still very enjoyable.",
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"text": "An endurance bike would have been faster.",
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"text": "A tourer would have been more comfortable.",
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{
"text": "But it was fine.",
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"text": "A hybrid would have worked, too.",
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{
"text": "Heck, even a town bike can do that; it just takes a very long time.",
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{
"text": "This weekend just passed as of writing this answer, I did maybe 100-120 km around the southeast of Scania in the south of Sweden, on a gravel bike.",
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{
"text": "It has the same 700x35C tyre size as on your bike.",
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],
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"text": "35 mm tyres are fine even on long stretches of road; the rolling resistance is comparable to the 28 mm tyres on my fixie, but the ride is more comfy.",
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"text": "I find that on longer rides, the different hand positions of drop bars really help.",
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"text": "If possible, I would recommend looking into a different handlebar.",
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"text": "The typical wide, mostly flat bar that most hybrids have gets really uncomfortable after a while.",
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"text": "Look for something that gives you a few different hand positions.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "That’s probably the single most important upgrade you can do to your bike for longer rides.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43514/Simon Lundberg",
"score": 1
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}
] | {
"question": "I have a hybrid bike with 27\" large frame, 700c wheels and 35mm tires. Can I do brevets (long distance ride) on this bike? If yes, what are the points I should start working on to achieve this? Currently I am a beginner and riding around 40 minutes per day and little more on weekends.",
"title": "Can I do brevets (long distance rides) on my hybrid bike? If yes, how to start?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<hybrid-bike><long-distance>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/61855",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43401/harsha.cs"
} | 29_8 | [
[
"S1: The short answer is that you can do long distance rides on basically any bicycle as long as it’s comfortable for you. You can certainly do Brevet Populaires (100 km). Plenty of people do them on all sorts of bikes. Your bike should be no problem, as long as it's a bike that fits you. Things you may wish to consider are the position of the seat, lower handlebars, getting tires with low rolling resistance, getting clipless pedals and shoes and wearing tight bicycle clothing.",
"People use different kinds of bikes on these rides, and a well-fitting hybrid will be fine if you have the required fitness level yourself. Make sure that the bike fits you and is well maintained, and wear suitable clothing. A bike can be adapted for longer rides by adjusting the handlebars for lower wind resistance, using smoother tyres, locking the suspension and using clipless pedals. Some people find drop handlebars more comfortable on longer rides, in addition to being more aerodynamic."
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"People use different kinds of bikes on these rides, and a well-fitting hybrid will be fine if you have the required fitness level yourself.",
"Make sure that the bike fits you and is well maintained, and wear suitable clothing. A bike can be adapted for longer rides by adjusting the handlebars for lower wind resistance, using smoother tyres, locking the suspension and using clipless pedals. Some people find drop handlebars more comfortable on longer rides, in addition to being more aerodynamic."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards I have been doing the same for as long as I have a bike.",
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"text": "Glass shards, small sharp stones, nails, drawing pins... name something I haven't pulled out of my tires!",
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"text": "But I never worried of patching the tire, and never had problems because of that.",
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"text": "My tires (even those which weren't puncture resistant) reached end of life because of wear, not because of cuts.",
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"text": "I just patched the tube inside, and went on.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30865/L.Dutch - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 22
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"sents": [
{
"text": "The only times you need to consider the tyre is if the hole is large enough for the inner tube to poke through, or if the hole is in the thin sidewall I once had a hole that was ~1 mm across, and seemed okay.",
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"text": "It took about 3 flats every 200 km of riding to realise that the tube was herniating through the hole and wearing through.",
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"text": "A black tube and a black tyre made it hard to see the issue.",
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"text": "If you can't see the tube or the threads of the tyre in or through the hole, its fine.",
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"text": "If you can, then its possible to stick an inner tube patch on the inside of the tyre to get more wear out of it, or if the tyre's worn out anyway then its time to replace.",
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"text": "Your other option is to work on your technique, and try to stop riding through broken glass so much.",
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"text": "Not easy I know.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If it's a large enough cut that the tube pokes through the tyre once inflated, then the best solution is to use a regular tube patch on the inner surface of the tyre with the vulcanising glue just like when patching a tube.",
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"text": "While less recommended, I've also had success just using a drop of superglue for a small cut in a tyre.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40185/Carbon side up",
"score": 11
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can use a small amount of super glue to close the area that was cut by the shard of glass.",
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"text": "Depending on where the cut is located you will have to re-apply the super glue every few hundred kms, but this can greatly extend the life of the tire.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43660/imelhado",
"score": 5
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Some puncture kits come with a piece of rubberised canvas which is intended for glueing over a (small) tear or hole in the tyre carcass - but I wouldn't rely on it for anything bigger than a slot a few mm long - perhaps you could get away with longer on a relatively low pressure tyre but not on a racing bike.",
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{
"text": "For pinpricks or cuts to the rubber that don't penetrate into the fibre structure I've never bothered doing anything other than removing the foreign material from the tyre so it doesn't get worse.",
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"text": "I've never had a tyre fail because I'd not glued up or repaired damage to the tread...",
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"text": "general wear gets them in the end.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43581/houninym",
"score": 2
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"sents": [
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"text": "I don't bother patching cuts caused by tiny shards of glass and have never had a problem.",
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"text": "When touring I carry a Park Tool emergency tyre boot in case I develop a bigger cut in the tyre - but I would only use it as a temporary solution until I can get home and replace the tyre.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/28653/John M",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are also tire plugs which are designed to plug holes in tubeless tires that are so big the sealant does not work.",
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"text": "It might be overkill, but I see no reason why those would not work when using tubes.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34579/Lukas",
"score": 0
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] | {
"question": "How do you deal with the small cuts in a bicycle tires main tread? Do folks fill these small cuts? I have continental gatorskins which I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards. thanks!",
"title": "How to patch glass cuts in a bicycle tire?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><maintenance><preventative-maintenance>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/62123",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43628/akyeung"
} | 29_9 | [
[
"Cyclists in general consider that there is no need to repair a tire with a small glass cut. It is sufficient to simply remove the shard of glass. However, larger damage may require a quick fix - such as super glue, patch kit, tire plug - until you can get home and really patch the tire or replace it.",
"As long as you remove glass and other sharp objects, smaller cuts are generally not a problem for tyres. Patch the tube inside and keep riding, and the tyre is likely to wear out rather than failing due to these cuts. Larger cuts where the inner tube is poking through are more of a problem, but can usually be fixed with a normal patch or some superglue. Some commercial products are designed to repair tyres, especially tubeless tyres, which could also be used on clincher tyres."
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"As long as you remove glass and other sharp objects, smaller cuts are generally not a problem for tyres. Patch the tube inside and keep riding, and the tyre is likely to wear out rather than failing due to these cuts.",
"Larger cuts where the inner tube is poking through are more of a problem, but can usually be fixed with a normal patch or some superglue.",
"Some commercial products are designed to repair tyres, especially tubeless tyres, which could also be used on clincher tyres."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The simplest answers are ask for their ID, or for their car keys if they arrive by car.",
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"text": "There are plenty of other options on various forums like https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/446194-selling-bike-craigslist-test-rides.html https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/687171-how-do-you-let-potential-buyer-test-ride-your-bike.html",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33048/pateksan",
"score": 32
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Cash in hand.",
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"text": "They give you the purchase price, in cash, and it sits in your pocket while they do the test ride.",
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"score": 13
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"sents": [
{
"text": "If you have another bike that you are not selling, you can ride next to the person test riding the bike to make sure they don't take off with it.",
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"text": "If you can't do that, then I'd suggest you have the person test riding give you something valuable to them",
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"text": "so they come back to claim it.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Go to a Skatepark, usually there you have access limited by one or two doors, they are usually free, it's a good place to test a whip, you have mostly good visibility and riders, and depending on your location it may even have guards.",
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"text": "In this kind of eviroments if you shout \"thief\" or \"help\" skaters and bikers will help in my experience, they like their skate parks to have a good rep and they tend to push away sketchy people, altough YMMV.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've just sold a bike.",
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{
"text": "The buyer left their bike locked to the fence next to myself place.",
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"text": "I offered to test ride as long and far as they consider necessary.",
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"text": "If they wouldn't have turned up I should have waited there until they recovered their bike.",
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"text": "If that would have taken unusually long I should have put my own lock at their bike and inform them via email or text message.",
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"score": 3
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"sents": [
{
"text": "A lot of people are saying to take the ID, but isn't checking the ID sufficient?",
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"text": "Besides, there are other things, like a bank statement, which confirm the name and on top of that their address.",
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0
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"text": "I guess if you live close to the buyer you could ask to meet them at theirs.",
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{
"text": "You see them leaving their house, how exactly are they going to hide from you?",
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "Another idea is to pick a good spot.",
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{
"text": "A tennis court for example would be naturally closed off, stand next to the only gate and voila, they'd have to use force to get away with the bike.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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2
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{
"text": "Also, sometimes just the good-old first impression is sufficient.",
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1
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],
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{
"text": "You can base the decision of whether you will let them try it out on that.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43767/Tryb Ghost",
"score": 0
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] | {
"question": "I am selling a bike to someone I don't know from Craigslist. I expect that the prospective purchaser will want to test ride the bike before making the purchase. How can I prevent them from riding away with my bike during a test ride?",
"title": "How can I offer a test ride while selling a bike?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><security>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/62252",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43750/Stephen Meschke"
} | 29_10 | [
[
"There are a number of ways you can stop a potential purchaser from stealing your bike when they take it for a test ride. First, keep something of theirs, like the cash for the bike, ID, car keys, other bike, while they go for the ride. Alternatively, conduct the test ride in an enclosed space, like a skate park or tennis court or ride next to them on another bike. Sometimes, the first impression will give you a good idea of whether they may try to steal the bike or not.",
"You could ask them to leave the payment in cash, the bike or car they arrived in, something valuable or a way to identify them. Riding with them or meeting in an enclosed area can provide some security. In some cases, you might trust someone based on first impressions."
]
] | {
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[
"Ask them to leave the payment in cash, the bike or car they arrived in, something valuable or a way to identify them.",
"Ride with them or meet in an enclosed area.",
"Sometimes you might trust someone based on first impressions."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I looked into it and found this PDF: 2004, Berto: \"All About Tire Inflation\" ,where the optimal tire pressures were found experimentally from a Tire Drop test, where Tire Drop is the distance that the tire sags under the weight of the rider and the bike.",
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"text": "For a given tire size and load, the optimum inflation pressure for comfort and rolling resistance produces a Tire Drop of about 15% of W (the Section Width) or about 20% of H (the height from the ground to the rim).",
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"text": "For my case, that document shows the minimum tire pressure somewhere around 25 psi / 172 kPa for a 26\"x2.125\" tire.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "You can have an \"optimum\" tire pressure - unfortunately, when riding on road you want higher pressure, when riding on low grip surfaces you want lower pressure (more tire in contact with the ground), when riding on very uneven terrain you want again higher pressure to prevent flats, when jumping you want higher pressures, and so on and so on.",
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"text": "The desired tire pressure depends on where do you want to ride, and to a reasonable extent on what you \"feel\" - which might be different than what a different person of your same size/weight feels.",
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"text": "What you can do is find a \"recommended\" tire pressure and work from there.",
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"text": "In time tire pressure drops, at some time you will find the pressure too low - measure it and remember it as your \"minimal\" tire pressure.",
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"text": "Try with higher pressure than recommended and \"feel the ride\" - MTB tires with an extreme thread pattern at high pressure rumble very much on asphalt, a lower pressure \"mellows\" the ride (vibration into the hands).",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34924/Calin Ceteras",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There is no such thing as optimal tyre pressure.",
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"text": "Tyre pressure is always a compromise between comfort, rolling resistance, grip and likelihood of puncturing.",
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"text": "This depends not only on tyre dimensions and rider/bike weight but also on the terrain you're riding on and the weather.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13174/David Richerby",
"score": 5
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Most tires are labeled by the manufacturer with maximum load - inflation numbers.",
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"text": "These depend on the design, materials and construction of the tire as much or more so than its dimensions.",
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"text": "While a manufacturer may be able to provide optimum inflation info I don't see any way to develop a calculator that would do more than give you a wild guess.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43847/JoeKahno",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Even if by \"optimal\" we mean something specific and measurable like \"least rolling resistance\", there is no such pressure.",
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"text": "Minimum rolling resistance depends on the surface.",
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"text": "On a smooth surface, like a varnished wooden velodrome track, high pressure is best: the higher the better, with diminishing returns.",
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"text": "On a bumpy surface, there is an optimal pressure with negative returns if it is changed either way.",
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"text": "(And note, by the way, that an off-road tire with \"knobs\" constitutes a bumpy surface, even if ridden on a smooth surface.)",
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"text": "The pressure depends on how big the bumps are, and the load on the wheel as well as suspension details.",
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"text": "Practically speaking, it can only be experimentally determined; and for that to be valid, we actually need a way to measure the rolling resistance of that specific equipment on that specific surface.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5088/Kaz",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have 57-559 (57 mm width, 559 mm diameter) / 26\"x2.125\" tires.I weigh about 95 kg / 210 lbs.The tire's sidewall shows a single pressure value of 300 kPa / 43 psi. However, this calculator shows that given a fixed tire size, different rider + bike weights would have different optimal tire pressures. Is there a way to calculate such an optimal pressure?",
"title": "Is there a way to calculate the correct bicycle tire pressure?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire-pressure>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/62375",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43843/plu"
} | 29_11 | [
[
"You can have an \"optimum\" tire pressure - unfortunately, when riding on road you want higher pressure, when riding on low grip surfaces you want lower pressure (more tire in contact with the ground), when riding on very uneven terrain you want again higher pressure to prevent flats, when jumping you want higher pressures, and so on and so on. However, what you can do is find a \"recommended\" tire pressure and work from there.",
"There is no objective optimal pressure, although a suitable pressure can be chosen based on factors like terrain, tyre type, comfort, weight, activity and weather. Manufacturers give a maximum pressure, and you could find a recommended pressure and work from there. The minimum and maximum comfortable pressure within the tyre's safe range can be discovered through experimentation"
]
] | {
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[
"There is no objective optimal pressure, although a suitable pressure can be chosen based on factors like terrain, tyre type, comfort, weight, activity and weather.",
"Manufacturers give a maximum pressure, and you could find a recommended pressure and work from there. The minimum and maximum comfortable pressure within the tyre's safe range can be discovered through experimentation"
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The traditional solution on bicycles is metal wire basket.",
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"text": "Metal is tougher than plastic and mesh instead of sheet metal makes it lightweight enough.",
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"text": "If you need something waterproof, put your things in waterproof bag or get a more expensive bike-specific rack box.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/10595/ojs",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Wood is an often-overlooked material.",
"label": [
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],
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},
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"text": "Its pliable and forgiving of vibration.",
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"text": "Plus its available in heaps of different profiles and weights.",
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-1
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"text": "You can construct the size of box you want to the millimetre, not requiring to make use of whatever you find.",
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],
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"text": "For added durability, painting the wood allows you to express yourself, or a good location to attach reflectors and lights.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The first container looks to be really thin and cheap, no wonder why it did not last.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The second container looks better, but, IMO, will not last long either.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "How is the container attached on your bike ?",
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],
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"text": "You could place a piece of rubber between the container and whatever holds it.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13517/Max",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I went with a much smaller box with a lower height.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I often scraped my leg hiking it over the old box on the screws holding the lid down.",
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"text": "It has 2 closures, but the added screws stops the rattling.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36461/fixit7",
"score": 1
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've always had the best luck using a milk crate.",
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},
{
"text": "I attach them to the rack using hose clamps.",
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"text": "Hose clamps won't break.",
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"text": "If I need something to be waterproof, I just put it in a plastic bag.",
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45249/toddg",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "The \"white container box\" lasted about 2 months until it cracked in multiple places. It was a cheap box(Dollar General variety). New container is made by Sterilite and much sturdier. I believe the old container cracked because of vibration and bumps transmitted from the ground to the box. Can someone help me with ideas on how to cushion the new box?",
"title": "Improve survivability of bicycle container",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<cargo><panniers>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/63548",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36461/fixit7"
} | 29_12 | [
[
"Metal mesh baskets and wood are recommended for bike boxes with the addition of a plastic bag for waterproofing. Cheap containers do not last long however, a piece of rubber between the container and whatever holds it will damp some of the vibrations.",
"The plastic boxes shown are thin and will break easily. You could dampen the vibrations with a piece of rubber under the box, use a smaller box or use thicker plastic (e.g. a milk crate). A metal wire basket is a sturdier option, and anything that needs to be waterproof can be put in a plastic bag. Wooden containers are also a possibility."
]
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"A metal wire basket is a sturdier option, and anything that needs to be waterproof can be put in a plastic bag.",
"The plastic boxes shown are thin and will break easily. You could dampen the vibrations with a piece of rubber under the box, use a smaller box or use thicker plastic (e.g. a milk crate).",
"Wooden containers are also a possibility."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Your seat post is not all the way up, it's too far up.",
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"text": "If you need the saddle at that height you need a longer seat post.",
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"text": "As mentioned in comments there is usually a 'minumum insertion' point marked on the post.",
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},
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"text": "Don't ride the bike with the seat post too far out of the seat tube.",
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"text": "It's dangerous as the seat post may collapse under you",
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"text": "and you risk damaging the top of the seat tube",
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"text": "even is that does not happen.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 50
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Seat posts are usually marked with a line indicating a minimum insertion point.",
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"text": "Extending the seat post past that point poses a risk of the seat post bending, or cracking the frame.",
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"text": "While 250-300mm seems to be the normal original size there are extra long seat posts available.",
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"text": "Lengths of 400mm are fairly common.",
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},
{
"text": "I did see a 700m telescoping (two sections) post for a folding bike.",
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"text": "You must also match the seatpost diameter to the bike's frame.",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes",
"score": 18
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you are lucky you can buy a longer post and replace your present one.",
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},
{
"text": "As mentioned in other answer, each post has a clear mark indicating the maximum usable length, and exceeding it is not a smart idea.",
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},
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"text": "Visit a bike shop and search for a longer post fitting your frame.",
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},
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"text": "If the diameter is not weird, you should fine one.",
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"text": "I mentioned the weird diameter out of personal experience:",
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},
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"text": "on one of my previous bike the post had a larger diameter in the sub millimeter range than the new one I bought based on the millimeter size, and could not fit.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/30865/L.Dutch - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Have had the same issue..",
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0
],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "seatpost hight enough is too high..",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "on the boundary from medium to large frame and have to opt for large and short stem instead to get a sturdy saddle height..",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "As above mentioned not observing the minimum insertion is incredibly dangerous and",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
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]
},
{
"text": "costly(will possible write the frame off)..",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "if nothing else works go up a frame size..and shorten the stem a bit..works a treat for me(100mm instead of 120mm stem for example)..",
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1
],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45325/Matthew",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "More info The post diameter is often stamped into the post.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There are a number of diameters, some very close together, using a post slightly too small in diameter can result in a clamp that won't tighten enough allowing your post to gradually sink into the seat tube or turn easily.",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Not a problem if you like to ride side saddle or with your knees in your face :)",
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],
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},
{
"text": "A post that's just slightly too large in dia probably won't fit the seat tube.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you've ever extracted a stuck post, it's obvious they're meant to fit tightly.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "ebay has lots of long steel and aluminum posts; I bought a 400 mm long post from ebay a few years ago.",
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1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "BTW, the longer the post, the farther back you sit and the easier it is to lift the front wheel.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "May not be noticeable, the seat can be moved forward on its rails some to compensate if it is.",
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0
],
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0
],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Enjoy!",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45351/Mikey Bikey",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As other answers said, you should not ride w/o at least a few inches of seatpost inserted into the seat tube of the bicycle.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you cannot locate a seatpost that is long enough (which you should be able to do), or otherwise want to use the seatpost you have, seatpost extenders exist that might be able to foot the bill.",
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1
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},
{
"text": "Essentially, the are two parts -- a long tube that inserts into your seat tube (as a normal seat post would do) and an upper part that acts like another seat tube and into which you can slide your existing seat post.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I can only copy all the other answers.",
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"text": "Do not pull the seatpost too far up.",
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{
"text": "There is a minimum insert mark on the seastpost.",
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"text": "The reason is the post is not vertical",
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"text": "so while sitting on it you are bending the post.",
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"text": "When the post is mounted too shallow, it can bend or break the frame.",
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"text": "I cannot recommend using longer seatpost either, because longer post means higher bending momentum.",
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"text": "You can bend or break the post itself, damage the frame or both.",
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"text": "Wery nasty injuries come from seat and seatpost failures!",
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"text": "If you need to pull the saddle up that much, the frame is too small for you.",
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"text": "I would strongly recommend giving the bike to someone smaller tha you are and getting yourself bike that fits you.",
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] | {
"question": "It is a standard column bicycle seat and I realised maybe I should have it raised to top (I can still stand the bicycle up using my toes) but the saddle rocks as there is no column to stop it moving and it doesn't have any other supports. I don't want it fixed forever but still want the saddle to be stable, with minimal movement. How can I do that? enter image description here The movement is 1 mm. I will correct this later.",
"title": "How to stabilise the bicycle seatpost and saddle when it is all the way up?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<seatpost><tall>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/64134",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33231/user2617804"
} | 29_13 | [
[
"A bike should not be ridden with the seat post too far up. If this height is required a longer seat post should be purchased. Most seat posts have a mark indicating their maximum height. However, if a person needs the seat this high, it probably means that the bike frame is too small and a bigger frame is needed.",
"The seat post is too high up, and is past the minimum insertion point. This risks injury and damage to the bike if it fails. Seat posts are designed to fit snugly, and slightly too large or small diameters will not fit properly. You could get a longer seat post with enough length in the tube, but if you need to extend it that far, the frame is probably too small for you."
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"The seat post is too high up, and is past the minimum insertion point. This risks injury and damage to the bike if it fails.",
"Seat posts are designed to fit snugly, and slightly too large or small diameters will not work.",
"You could get a longer seat post with enough length in the tube, but if you need to extend it that far, the frame is probably too small for you."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It's hard to say exactly what the cause is, but I see two main possibilities: Mechanical causes Brake pads.",
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"text": "If the pads are very close to the rotor when at rest, and have minimal motion to close on the rotor then that may be enough to wedge them.",
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"text": "Try inspecting the brake pads and if worn, replace them.",
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"text": "Brake pads are consumable.",
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"text": "Thin brake pad material will reduce your \"modulation\" zone, same as hard brake pads on rims do.",
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"text": "Could consider swapping your pads front to rear caliper temporarily as a test.",
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"text": "Pistons.",
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"text": "If your pistons are a little gunked up at the sides, they may not be retracting fully.",
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"text": "This may be limiting the distance that the pads have to travel to be hard on the wheel.",
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"text": "Rotor wear and damage.",
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"text": "Spin the front wheel off the ground and look closely at the rotor—it should not wobble or divert side-to-side, and the friction surface should not have burrs or obvious wear.",
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{
"text": "Fluids.",
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],
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{
"text": "I doubt these are the cause of your issue.",
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"text": "Low fluid, or air bubbles will exhibit as spongy-feeling levers and you don't have that.",
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"text": "(edit) though @t_bacon points out that if the system is over-filled it will be slightly pre-pressurised, which will be pushing the brake pistons out a little all the time.",
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"text": "It's definitely worth checking if the fluid is over-filled, by opening the bleed screw and see if fluid squirts out at all.",
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"text": "Technique",
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"text": "When braking, your lever should have a range of motion before the brakes are wedged hard-on.",
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],
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"text": "How tight you squeeze your fingers controls the level of braking effect.",
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},
{
"text": "There's a great answer at",
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"text": "What does \"modulate\" mean when referring to brakes?",
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"text": "Just visualise your flatbar lever instead of road brake levers, the concept is identical.",
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"text": "Body position for fast braking should be \"arms straight and arse back\" If you try and stand up on the pedals while hard braking your center of mass is higher and theres a moment-of-rotation which robs your rear wheel of traction and imparts a forward force on the rider.",
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"text": "One suggestion would be to swap bikes with a friend and try some carpark laps on another bike equipped with hydraulic brakes, and to get that other rider to try your bike brakes.",
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"text": "Decide if its a problem endemic to your bike vs technique, and go from there.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 24
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},
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"sents": [
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"text": "Don't - its dangerous ( Majority of braking force comes from front brakes) and in many countries illegal to ride on the road without 2 operational brakes.",
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"text": "Likely you are using too much force and not enough control.",
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"text": "You need to learn to feather brakes rather than jam them on, while shifting the weight back and lower.",
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"text": "Another possibility is you are using front brakes when you should not be - e.g. down a very steep drop.",
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"text": "If the slope is extremely steep, you need to go in slow, roll it out while on the slope, and brake once it levels out.",
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"text": "Using the back brake only for control can help, but avoid using the front.",
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"text": "Again, weight back and low helps with control.",
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"text": "Its possible the brakes are grabbing, which does make it harder to feather them properly, but this should not put you over the bars.",
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3924/mattnz",
"score": 10
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"sents": [
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"text": "It is unusual to see a hydraulic brake described as on/off, as they are usually well known for their modulation.",
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"text": "However I have had an experience of this before with a friends bike.",
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"text": "He was regularly locking up the rear wheel, and initially I put it down to inexperience as a new rider - until I rode the bike myself and found the brake to be extremely 'grabby' and hard to control.",
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"text": "The problem was resolved by simply bleeding the brake.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/14027/Andy P",
"score": 9
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"sents": [
{
"text": "To answer the last part of your question: yes, ABS systems for bicycles exist (a quick searching of the Internet is enough to see that).",
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"text": "However, they are not widespread and are mostly for OEM city bikes where there are no expectations about rider's skills.",
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"text": "As a result, maybe not something readily available for an end user to buy.",
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"text": "In absence of ABS, and somewhat repeating other answers, here is what I'd suggest to do.",
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"text": "Get better with your braking technique.",
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"text": "Generally the best thing to do is to keep learning about your bike, get to know your trails and to measure your abilities proportionally.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Maybe you are trying to ride features for which you are not yet ready as a rider?",
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"text": "Change brake pads to resin type, if you have metallic ones.",
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"cluster_id": [
[
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"text": "Metallic brake pads have higher grip.",
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"text": "Change front rotor size to one smaller.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If you have 180 mm, go to 160 mm (if your fork is compatible with smaller discs).",
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"text": "Adjust leverage of your brake lever to make it less pronounced.",
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"text": "Only few high-end levers have this option, however.",
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"text": "Change your front brake to a less powerful or try different brake vendor.",
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"text": "Do you happen to run downhill calipers on an XC bike?",
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"text": "Some people feel like a Shimano system is more intuitive to use than SRAM's, others feel like Magura brakes are too powerful, and others disagree etc.",
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"text": "Even setting up a mechanical disc brake can be a thing.",
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"text": "Think again though if trading stopping power for a sense of security is worth it.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26917/Grigory Rechistov",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
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"text": "Different brake pads have different amounts of \"grab.",
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"text": "\" You may consider changing the type of brake pad you use in your disc brake.",
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"text": "Sintered or metallic pads are generally considered to have less initial \"bite\" than organic pads.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/40556/Greg",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
{
"text": "This feels like something is not quite correct with the front brake.",
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"text": "Sorry, I've missed if you've provided the make/model, but theoretically, modern hydraulic disc brakes should allow complete modulation through the braking phase rather than an all or nothing approach.",
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"text": "That suggests contamination, sticking piston(s) or calipers, etc.",
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"text": "You could also check your riding position.",
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"text": "Placing your saddle backwards a few mm, whilst retaining comfort, would place your centre of gravity rearward, meaning pitching forward is reduced.",
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"text": "This can also be obtained by lowering your saddle slightly too, again, within the confines of comfort and efficient riding.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45199/Lucero79",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "I am thinking about disconnecting my front brake altogether because it's either on or it's off, and there's no in-betweens. As a result I've been over the handlebars about five times now and it's getting to be a bit of a pain. Does anyone know if its possible to soften the brakes so the front acts more like ABS?",
"title": "Front hydraulic disk brake is too powerful on MTB — solutions?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brakes><front>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/64580",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45617/William"
} | 29_14 | [
[
"IF a front brake is too powerful it may be the rersult of a number of things. It could be a fault of the rider, who is jamming the brakes on rather than feathering them. It could be riding position, in which case lowering the saddle and moving it backwards may help. Finally, there may be a problem with the brake so the brake pads, pistons, rotor and calipers should be checked. However, the front brake should not be disconnected as it is illegal to ride on roads without 2 brakes.",
"Don't disable a brake — this may be illegal, and it is dangerous. Instead, you may need to work on correct technique and feather brakes rather than pulling harder. Shifting your weight backwards and lower will increase traction on the rear wheel and reduce the chance of pitching forward. Disc brakes should allow for a full range of modulation, but some brakes have more grab than others. Check for worn brake pads, dirt around the pistons and misaligned or worn rotors, and compare with a different bike to ensure that this is an issue with the bike rather than technique. You could also change the brake pads, reduce the rotor size or adjust the leverage of your brake levers."
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"Disc brakes should allow for a full range of modulation, but some brakes have more grab than others. Check for worn brake pads, dirt around the pistons and misaligned or worn rotors, and compare with a different bike to ensure that this is an issue with the bike rather than technique.",
"Don't disable a brake — this may be illegal, and it is dangerous. Instead, you may need to work on correct technique and feather brakes rather than pulling harder.",
"Shifting your weight backwards and lower will increase traction on the rear wheel and reduce the chance of pitching forward.",
"You could also change the brake pads, reduce the rotor size or adjust the leverage of your brake levers."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Warranties exist to protect you, the consumer, against defects in materials or workmanship, not against deliberate damage.",
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"text": "The purpose of a bike lock is to help avoid your bike being stolen, so if it has prevented a theft of the bicycle then it has done its job well.",
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"text": "Perhaps you can ask Decathlon and report back to us by answering your own question for future readers, that would be most useful.",
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"text": "You would have to explore if the damage is covered by any of your insurances, check local laws on any time limits to report the attempted theft by (to police etc).",
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"text": "Sometimes lock companies will offer private schemes to replace stolen goods, like this number one Google hit , but you would probably know about such a scheme if it was advertised on your product and you'd likely need to have registered the purchase.",
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"text": "In this case, you bought a lock to protect the bike, and it worked, which is great.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/38558/Swifty",
"score": 34
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some locks offer \"insurance\" where you can get a payout if their lock fails to protect your bike.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Of course there are caveats like \"lock must be used\" and \"thief must leave lock behind\" (for inspection for weakness) and so on, and even \"lock must be registered with company\"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The only places that can tell you details would be the supplier and the manufacturer.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Half-related, the lock has worked this time, but thief knows what is needed next time and may return with the right tool.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'd add another lock, or store the bike inside from now on.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "You've had your warning, don't ignore it.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It still doesn't hurt to contact the manufacturer, but do not talk to as if they owe you anything.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Do an open inquiry and see if there's anything they can do.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Companies can actually do things out of the ordinary and isn't only bound by warranties.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Maybe they'll want your lock back to examine how it survived a theft and give you a replacement.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/22635/Nelson",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Locks are consumables.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just like helmets, seatbelts and airbags, you're supposed to get a new one after it's used, even successfully.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "In general, physical security devices are never about denying access.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They are about delaying access.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Delaying long enough that the chances of getting caught rise to the point that the risk becomes unacceptable (compared to the value of the items being stolen).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Anyone can defeat ANY lock, given enough time.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That's by design.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Your lock worked as it should.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The bike was saved, your move now is to thank the manufacturer for a job well done and buy another lock.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is no claim to be made.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just like there is no claim about brake pads getting smaller from use.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As others have said, they MAY give you one for publicity, but that's quite far fetched.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/32724/Agent_L",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You've misunderstood what a warranty is for.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A warranty protects you against a defective product due to, e.g., errors in manufacturing or possibly design.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "For example, your lock's warranty might offer you a replacement if the locking mechanism jammed unexpectedly soon, or if the plastic coating on the shackle became brittle and cracked off.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Warranties do not protect against people actively trying to destroy the product.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "That's what insurance is for.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/13174/David Richerby",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "So i went to Decathlon and as expected the guy told me that he couldn't replace the lock (Oxford Sentinel plus btw).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I asked him if he thought i should replace the lock and he said that unless, the guy had a lot of time or an electric saw thingy, the lock should be fine because he only removed the cover bit of the lock.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Anyway thanks for all your help!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46045/Yujin Kim",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Someone attempted to steal my girlfriend's bike tonight and they damaged the lock. Do you guys know if we can use the warranty to get it exchanged? The lock has a 2 year warranty and I'm planning to take it to Decathlon to check what they can do but in the meanwhile is there anything we could do?",
"title": "Warranty on lock damaged during attempted theft",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<replacement><lock><damage><theft>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/65056",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46045/Yujin Kim"
} | 29_15 | [
[
"S0: Warranties exist to protect you, the consumer, against defects in materials or workmanship, not against deliberate damage. The purpose of a bike lock is to help avoid your bike being stolen, so if it has prevented a theft of the bicycle then it has done its job well. Sometimes lock companies will offer private schemes to replace stolen goods, like this number one Google hit , but you would probably know about such a scheme if it was advertised on your product and you'd likely need to have registered the purchase. It is advised to keep the bike inside to avoid attempted or actual theft.",
"Warranties protect against defective products, not deliberate damage. This lock slowed the thief down enough to prevent the theft, and should be replaced if necessary. Insurance may protect against this kind of damage, and some companies will replace damaged or destroyed locks. Since you know that your bike has been targeted, you may want to lock it up more securely or store it inside in future."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
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} | [
5
] | [
[
"Warranties protect against defective products, not deliberate damage. This lock slowed the thief down enough to prevent the theft, and should be replaced if necessary.",
"Insurance may protect against this kind of damage, and some companies will replace damaged or destroyed locks.",
"Since you know that your bike has been targeted, you may want to lock it up more securely or store it inside in future."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can do it, but it will be much more expensive to buy the Tiagra-equipped bike and then buy Ultegra parts piece-by-piece.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Bike manufacturers get the parts much more cheaply than you can, and that price difference is reflected in the price of the bike.",
"label": [
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Also, consider this: Ultegra is an 11-speed group.",
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],
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"text": "Tiagra is 10-speed.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "This means that you will need to upgrade the cassette, rear derailleur, and shifters all at once anyhow.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2152/Adam Rice",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There is nothing about the wheel or frame that is incompatible with Ultegra R8000.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "You might need an adapter for the bottom bracket but that's about it.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, as others have said, groupsets are much cheaper when they come on a bike than bought separately, so you will not be saving money by upgrading incrementally.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Additionally you will still have 'Tiagra level' alloy frame, wheels and everything else, which will negate having a better groupset to a large degree.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The only way to make this viable (economically speaking) is to find the parts you're looking for on discount during things like Black Friday.",
"label": [
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's not impossible as I have done so myself, however you'll still have to install everything by yourself or the savings",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
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"text": "will vanish when paying the shop to do it for you.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/46150/eethirteenzz",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You could perhaps consider (if you go for the upgrade instead of the different bike route) to only replace some (the most important) parts with ultegra(or 105 if you want to save some money) and leaving the rest of the drive train parts as is (spec wise) or replacing them with higher spec but lower than ultegra/105.",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "In my opinion the rear derailleur/shifter are the most important/first parts to upgrade since you shift a lot more with the rear derailleur and adjustment and such needs to be a lot more precise to produce clean shifts than in the front.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Shifters will last you a very long time and shifting performance is very much related to proper shifters.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Also make sure your shift cables are in good condition to get optimal shifting performance.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Example setup:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Rear derailleur: ultegraFront derailleur: 105/tiagraChain: 105/tiagraShifters: ultegra",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "In my opinion this is a good compromise in terms of price/performance.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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"text": "You could change the example by replacing Integra by 105 and 105 by tiagra to get a cheaper but still adequate option.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": "The modern tiagra parts are quite good imo.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Regarding ultegra being 11 speed and 105 being 10 speed: in my experience derailleurs are not speed specific and Shimano derailleurs with different 'rated' speeds can be used interchangably when using the correct shifter (same number of gears) for the casette/freewheel.",
"label": [
1
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So you could also consider 105 shifters, ultegra RD and 10 speed chain as an option In regards to cutting costs: try finding the parts used but new (bought but never used) on eBay or another second hand marketplace.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": "Good deals can occasionally be found :)",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34221/Maarten -Monica for president",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another point that could trip you up, is that tiagra 10 speed is unique and weird in its cable pull.",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "This means Tiagra 4300 is not compatible with any other 10 speed groupset parts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So its an all-or-nothing change for you, have to do the right brifter and rear derailleur together.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Can I change group set of this bike from Tiagra to Ultegra 8XXX without changing wheel? If yes, does it depend on geometry of rear fork? I am asking because I would like to know whether it is cheaper to buy a new bike like this and occasionally change group elements (with used) Ultegra and you will get after some months one pro bike :). Thanks for your time More about what I want to buy here",
"title": "Buy cheaper bike and upgrade",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<groupsets>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/65153",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43962/Emin Hasanov"
} | 29_16 | [
[
"The general consesus is there is little point upgrading the group set and cheaping a cheaper frame and wheels. Parts are more expensive when bought separately and a large part of the bike is still the lower quality version. Bikes are generally cheaper when bought as a whole item. That being said, there are no real incompatibility between the Tiagra and the Ultegra parts in question.",
"Upgrading a bike piece by piece is more expensive than upgrading the whole bike, and will also leave you with some lower end parts. If you want to do this, try replacing only the most important parts and look for good deals on Ebay and elsewhere. The sheel and frame are compatible with the Ultegra R8000, but the bottom bracket may need to be adapted."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
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} | [
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] | [
[
"Upgrading a bike piece by piece is more expensive than upgrading the whole bike, and will also leave you with some lower end parts. If you want to do this, try replacing only the most important parts and look for good deals on Ebay and elsewhere.",
"The sheel and frame are compatible with the Ultegra R8000, but the bottom bracket may need to be adapted."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I personally have found that anything with a lever that moves the internal clapper works best.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Unfortunately, those seem to only come in large size.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's a photo of the one I have lying around:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I thought the spring in the internal mechanism had worn out which is why I wasn't using it, but now that I looked at it again it turns out it just needed a bit of oil.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Here's what the insides look like: The clapper's attached to the lever with a spring so any contact with the lever won't dampen the clapper's movement.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33466/HAEM",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I ride a lot on busy roads, and given that modern cars are too well insulated for a petite \"ding ding\" noise to penetrate, or the vehicles are doing 80+ km/h",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": ", I find an airhorn to be an excellent solution.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I happen to own four of these AirZound horns, one for each of my regular rides.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They're mounted for actuation by the left hand, because my right hand is used for front brake and rear gear changes.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I wear leather gauntlets in the winter, somewhat tending toward motorbike gloves, and have never had a problem actuating the white lever with a thumb.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Rain, wind, darkness, sleet and hail have all done their worst.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've not tested it in snow yet, still holding out for a good snow dump.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For next winter, I intend on making some pogs (overbar mitts) for the bent from some treated slink skins.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "These will completely encase the brake lever and handlebar grip, and the horn lever on the left, and the gearshift on the right.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I will leave the horn mouth exposed though.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I NEVER EVER use this on pedestrians - its too loud and would give the elderly a heart attack, and would provoke a fight/flight response in anyone.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here I simply use my voice, in a non-threatening manner.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is the better photo showing the airhorn's noisemaker.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This one is mounted upside down because that's how I hold these bars.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This position will hold water so in a heavy rain it may gargle and spit a bit.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's the same airhorn mounted more conventionally on a drop bar road bike.",
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0
],
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This one drains properly so won't hold water.",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The whole unit looks like this: Downsides the air reservoir takes up a bottle cage.",
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0
],
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0
],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "On my bent which has no cages, I have it taped to the underside of the frame with double sided tape and a couple of cable ties, its not a heavy bottle.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Its loud - really loud.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "To the point that car drivers hear it with the windows up and their music playing.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "One might think this is good, but it does limit the times where one might reasonably sound the horn.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "The hose is nonadjustable for length.",
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0
],
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],
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[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can either coil it up or make-do.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "No pressure indicator - its good for ~50 short burst or maybe 10 seconds continuous, so I top it up when I do the tyre pressures.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Postitives:",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No batteries, and the whole thing is surprisingly light.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Only needs a schrader pump to charge the tank, and can hold ~100 PSI.",
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],
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],
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}
],
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"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I tried multiple ones and the only thing loud and reliable enough is my voice.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I usually use the word \"Attention\" (\"Achtung\").",
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],
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},
{
"text": "The vocal a is good because it's easy to do loud with little practice.",
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],
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],
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},
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"text": "Use cases: Pedestrians: Make sure to yell early enough and to reduce loudness if you get nearby without them noticing.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Once you are just behind them and slowed down already, just talk at normal loudness.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Moving cars: People in cars won't hear a bicycle bell at all, or just barely.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0,
1
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},
{
"text": "Shout at the top of your lungs.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "The trick is to open your mouth wide and to spend time only on the vocals exactly as if you were singing.",
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"text": "If you are doing it right, pedestrians within at least a 50m radius will turn their heads to see what the problem is, but that should be none of your concern, car horns are much worse for pedestrians.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "Stopped cars: Slap your hand against the chassis instead of yelling.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If you are in a good mood, politely knocking as if on a door works too.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19881/Nobody",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had the same problem originally and found that the easiest solution was actually to have better fitting winter gloves that have the glove tips snugly against my own fingertips, rather than having a flabby bit that extends significantly beyond.the fingertip.",
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1
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/11269/Nzall",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are bells that are designed mostly for MTB that ring on their own.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "They are meant to work like \"bear\" bells in that the roughness of the terrain causes the bell to ring and alert hikers up the trail.",
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0
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],
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{
"text": "On smoother terrain, the bell does not ring as much",
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],
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},
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"text": "but you can make it ring by shaking the handlebars slightly.",
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},
{
"text": "Personally, even on a \"road\" bike this is my favorite bell.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Very easy to get a sustained ring that gets attention.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "The bell works well for pedestrians, but I can't imagine any bell that would work to alert car drivers.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8445/Fred the Magic Wonder Dog",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "In the winter, I often ride with mittens and find it impossible to use my standard bell (the one where you bend the clapper and let it hit the body), because my thumb touches the body and mutes the sound. Even in normal gloves I find it difficult to ring the bell. What types of bicycle bells work with winter gloves?",
"title": "What type of bicycle bell is easy to use with winter gloves?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<winter>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/65739",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/41628/fvclaus"
} | 29_17 | [
[
"A bicycle bell with a lever works best with winter gloves. Moreover, there are bells designed for MTB that ring on their own. However, people in cars cannot or hardly hear a bell. It really only works for pedestrians and then not always. Some cyclists find using their voice a better option.",
"A bell with a lever that moves the internal clapper works better, and there are some bells that work passively with the vibration. Better fitting gloves are easier for avoiding contact with the bell. Many bells are too quiet, so using your voice or an airhorn with cars can be a better way to be heard."
]
] | {
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5
] | [
[
"A bell with a lever that moves the internal clapper works better, and there are some bells that work passively with the vibration. Better fitting gloves are easier for avoiding contact with the bell.",
"Many bells are too quiet, so using your voice or an airhorn with cars can be a better way to be heard."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Chances are you were turning it clockwise when it broke.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "By tapping it anti-clockwise with a small drift or cold chisel, it may unjam it, when a magnet along with gravity and tapping should release it.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/47211/Tim",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Option 1:",
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],
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},
{
"text": "You say you've tried a magnet; was it a regular ferromagnet or a rare earth magnet?",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "It might be worth trying to extract it using a strong rare earth magnet.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I have a pair of small ones that are about 15mm dia",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
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]
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},
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"text": ", that are strong enough to cause damage if they snap together with any part of you between them.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'd clamp the magnet in a pair of locking pliers first",
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0
],
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],
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},
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"text": "so it's easier to handle.",
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{
"text": "Option 2:",
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{
"text": "(Only if option 1 fails) Tool steel is usually pretty hard, but you still might be able to drill it enough with a carbide bit to get a small screw or screw extractor to engage inside it and pull it out.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43557/DavidW",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You could try using an angle grinder or Dremel or similar multitool or iron saw to cut a slot into the bolt in which you can insert a flathead screwdriver to remove the old bolt.",
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0
],
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"text": "Then replace it with a new one of the same size.",
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{
"text": "Similar to the method of removing broken bolts (where the head has broken off and the thread are still in the part you want to save for example an engine block) where a slot is cut into the remaining part of the bolt (that is stuck) and this part is removed using a flathead screwdriver..",
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],
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"text": "You could try gluing something (for example the part of the tool that broke off that is still attached to the multitool handle) to the part of the hex key that's stuck and wiggling it out.",
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1
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Alternatively you could perhaps drill through the bolt (",
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1
],
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1
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[
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},
{
"text": "drill size just a bit smaller than the bolt itself) and chase the threads with a tap of the correct size (when there's just a thin piece of the bolt left after drilling).",
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0
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"text": "I would advice center punching the bolt and drilling from the non-bolt-head end of the bolt (for easier centering).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/34221/Maarten -Monica for president",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another option could be to put a tiny drop of CA adhesive ( cyanoacrylate , aka \"super glue\") on the broken end of the hex key still attached to the multi-tool, and then touch that end to the broken end stuck in the socket.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "You'd want to be very careful with the amount, because if adhesive squirts out of the break then it could attach the broken piece to the socket even more securely.",
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0
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],
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},
{
"text": "For that reason, I'd try this method as a last resort before replacing the derailleur.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/26527/rclocher3",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "How about a shop-vac?",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Use some thin tubing, seal everything well with duct tape on the vacuum hose and some oil or something at the other end.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "With a strong enough vacuum, might work.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/47224/sulflep9",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "While trying to replace the yoke of my derailleur I made the mistake of using a multi-tool hex key that was not able to handle the torque necessary for the task and snapped while the head stayed inside.I tried using gravity, a magnet, shaking and all combined to make the head fall down, to no avail. I've no idea on how to proceed further and am really thinking of getting a new derailleur.",
"title": "How to remove the broken ball end of a small hex key that is now stuck inside the socket",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<derailleur-rear><multi-tool>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/66534",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/45124/bookman B."
} | 29_18 | [
[
"Options for removing the broken ball end of a small hex key that is now stuck inside the socket include: tapping anti-clockwise with a cold chisel, using a strong magnet, vacuum hose and oil, vacuum cleaner, drilling through with carbide bit and gluing something to it and wiggling it out",
"A stronger battery could work, or you could tap the broken bit to try to dislodge it. A strong vacuum with a thin hose and good sealing around the area could release it. Try drilling through the bolt or cutting with a dremel to allow the bolt and broken bit to be removed with a flat head screwdriver. If this does not work, try gluing the broken ends together and wiggling the tool free."
]
] | {
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[
"A stronger battery could work, or you could tap the broken bit to try to dislodge it.",
"A strong vacuum with a thin hose and good sealing around the area could release it.",
"Try drilling through the bolt or cutting with a dremel to allow the bolt and broken bit to be removed with a flat head screwdriver.",
"Try gluing the broken ends together and wiggling the tool free."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The main reason is that bicycle tyres are much, much thinner than car tyres.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "A little tetrahedron of broken glass or a drawing pin that would puncture both tyre and tube on a bicycle won't trouble a car's tyre in the slightest.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A secondary reason is that bicycle tyres with tubes have additional ways to suffer punctures: an under-inflated tyre is susceptible to pinch flats.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "It's pretty much as simple as that.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/43808/Daniele Procida",
"score": 50
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "An unaddressed reason is speed-induced wind and the shape of modern roads.",
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"text": "Motor vehicles travel in a lane, and a roadway is generally two or more lanes in opposite directions.",
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"text": "As such, these two lanes meet at the centerline, which tracks the highest point on the sealed road surface.",
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"text": "For drainage, the road is not flat - all roads are intended to have some minor slope to assist rainwater to flow off.",
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"text": "Also, some corners are cambered, so that the shorter inside of the corner is lower than the longer outer edge.",
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"text": "Bringing it back to the question - we cyclists do not generally ride the centerline.",
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"text": "I ride on the outside of the road, which is where road detritus gets washed by rainwater, and debris also gets pushed here by the passage of cars.",
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1
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"text": "You can see a similar effect on a flat road just before a traffic island - here's an extreme example, which is mostly gravel and organic leaf matter.... ...",
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0
],
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"text": "but I'd expect to find metal wire shards in there and possibly fragments of glass and plastic.",
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"text": "Nails, screws, and staples are normal road rubbish too.",
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},
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"text": "Basically anything that can be \"swept\" by the passage of vehicles travelling at 50 or 80 or 100 km/h which creates a respectable breeze to sweep the lane clear and push the jank downhill to the sides.",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The side (or shoulder) of the road is where we end up riding.",
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{
"text": "All of these items lie on the road surface, and get concentrated on the sides, and this contributes to punctures along with the other points raised in other answers.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 37
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Essentially all modern car tires have steel puncture-protection belts under the tread surface",
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0
],
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0
],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/49627/Armand",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As someone who's had three car tire punctures in 200'000 km, and one bike puncture in maybe 20'000 km, I'd say an individual result is simply not statistically significant.",
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"text": "With a car, if you do mostly highway and city driving, punctures are rare.",
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1
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{
"text": "If you go on mountain or country roads, of frequently visit construction sites, railroad depots, junkyards and the like, you'd better have a spare tire ready.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "The same is true for bicycles: going all-terrain is not the same as riding on dedicated bike lanes.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Other than that, causes of car and bike punctures actually have not that much of overlap.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Small glass shards which damage a bike tire are not a threat to cars, and sharp rocks / metal scraps which are dangerous for a car tire can be easily avoided on a bike.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
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0,
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/23891/Dmitry Grigoryev",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are puncture-resistant versions of popular road bike tires.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've got some on my bike from a well-known brand as I bought it",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and I haven't had a single puncture yet.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For the same distance I would have expected 3 or 4 punctures on the tires I used previously.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, this comes at a cost - higher rolling resistance.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Using the site linked below, I see a 9.3-watt power loss versus the race tires of the same brand at 8.3 bar pressure.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "At lower pressures, the power loss is higher.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "I'll probably get different tires when these wear out.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Conclusion: it's possible to make bike tires more puncture resistant, but at a cost.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "It's much easier to change the tubes on a bicycle than to change the tires on a car, so the trade-off for bicycles is different: people prefer to go faster with the occasional additional puncture.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Site that has a Rolling Resistance Test Result comparison option",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19232/Erwin Bolwidt",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have driven in my life 200 000 km by car and 20 000 km by bike. In my car, I have never had a single puncture. In my bike, my puncture count probably exceeds 5. Why do bicycle tires suffer from frequent punctures whereas car tires do not?",
"title": "Why do bike tires suffer from frequent punctures whereas car tires don't?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<puncture><bike-vs-car>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/69225",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/33932/juhist"
} | 29_20 | [
[
"Bike tires puncture more than car tire because they are thinner. Moreover, an under-inflated bike tire is susceptible to pinch flats. There are puncture-resistant versions of bie tires but they are more expensive. Furthermore, bikeS travel more frequently in areas where sharp objects are likely to be found like off-road, edge of main roads, country roads, ETC.",
"Bike tyres are much thiner and less reinforced than car tyres, so they are much more sensitive to small sharp pieces of glass or other material. Reinforcing the tyres carries a penalty in weight and rolling resistance that reduces speed more on a bike. Bike and car tyres are threatened by different hazards, and the risk depends on the type of surface travelled on. Even on the same road, debris tends to get swept away from the centre and onto the part used by bikes."
]
] | {
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[
"Bike tyres are much thiner and less reinforced than car tyres, so they are much more sensitive to small sharp pieces of glass or other material. Reinforcing the tyres carries a penalty in weight and rolling resistance that reduces speed more on a bike,",
"Bike and car tyres are threatened by different hazards, and the risk depends on the type of surface travelled on. Even on the same road, debris tends to get swept away from the centre and onto the part used by bikes."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Two things could happen: You pump up the tube, and after a while, the side of the tire yields.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Usually when you´re sitting on the bike, because that increases the pressure a bit more.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "Looks like it has the plague or something, develops a well visible bulb.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "The bulb grows, and after a few moments or minutes poof (or bang if it´s a racing tire at 8 bars)",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "you´re out of air.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Can happen at a dangerous moment.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Usually you hear a funny sound of the bulb touching your frame before and have time to slow down.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "You brake, and the side of the tire disintegrates under the sudden stress.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Perhaps more likely with lower pressure (otherwise (1) occurs before).",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Complete loss of control",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "if it´s the front wheel.",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "Both of these only happen when the carcass of the tire is damaged, due to riding on a flat (likely invisible), a maladjusted brake pad, or something else that has been making quite some noise while rubbing off the rubber down to the carcass.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Visible cracks in the rubber can grow for many years before the reinforcing fabric below is destroyed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you bend the tire, and pieces fall off, yes, then it´s had it.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The crack growth is sped up a lot by riding (or even letting the bike stand in a dry shed) with too low pressure.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Rubber that is bent + ozone from the air =",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "environmental stress cracking.",
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],
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],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50849/Karl",
"score": 18
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Can someone explain the full consequences of a damaged tyre and whether it should be replaced or not?",
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},
{
"text": "Depends on the level of damage.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Things like scuff on the sidewall that don't penetrate to the carcass (reinforcing fibers), cuts in or chunk taken out of the tread are generically not a problem.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If the damage is something that could cause the tire to fail, that's a safety issue and the tire should be replaced.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "That includes any damage to the carcass, a hole that would allow the tube to herniate out of the tire or the rubber tread missing so that the carcass is visible and would contact the road, or damage to the bead.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "A really damaged tire may puncture more readily, suddenly blowout, negatively affect braking or traction while cornering or come off the rim.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Most of these things may cause a crash.",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "If a tire failure doesn't cause a crash the wheel rim may be damaged.",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/24228/Argenti Apparatus",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Beside the obvious potential crash damage there is potential damage from the tire failure.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "If the tire rolls off the rim you could ruin the rim on the pavement before you can safely stop.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There is the chance the tire could catch the brake caliper damaging that also.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3083/mikes",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I once damaged my tire by pushing the bike when the tire was flat.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It was a quite new tire actually.",
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},
{
"text": "One day, when I came back to where I had parked my bike, it was flat.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Closer inspection revealed that the tire had exploded while the bike had been parked!",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This was in winter and under a roof, so absolutely not temperature stress.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "The point is a damaged tire can explode at any time.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "You cannot trust them anymore .",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Now, it's not a problem if it explodes while being parked.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, if it explodes while you are riding downhill through a corner at 60km/h, it'll get you at least a free ride into the hospital.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Unfortunately, tires tend to explode when they are stressed in one way or another, that those situations are those where an exploding tire is most dangerous.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Your life depends on your tires.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "So ride tires that you can trust.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/36555/cmaster - reinstate monica",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A sudden failure of the front tire is very likely to cause you to crash.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "The tire can come off the rim or otherwise make you lose traction.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "If you are lucky you are going straight at a slow pace.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you are unlucky you are going through a turn at 50km/h",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "and there is a 100m drop at the side of the road.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A sudden failure of the rear tire is still bad but more stable and manageable.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19529/Michael",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As a very minor side effect, as a tyre wears and is damaged, the more rolling resistance it acquires.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Check out this https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-endurance-test where the sample tyres have added a watt of losses between new and the first 1000km checkin.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "After that losses still grow but more slowly.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19705/Criggie",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I get through two pairs of tires a year.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "My rule is to replace a tire if...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "There is a hole I can see through.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I can see any part of the white nylon/fabric layer from the outside It gets",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "more than one unexplained flat It has more than 5000 miles (for a road tire)",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It has any bulges or a broken bead If you don't replace a damaged tire you will eventually get a flat which may cause you to crash.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Flats caused by damaged tires tend to be blow outs and cause serious crashes.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Note that the rear tire wears faster than the front.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some people will move their front tire to the rear and put the new one on the front.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You don't always have to replace both tires at the same time.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
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-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50889/user1813319",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have seen / heard of cases where bike tyres get damaged (like for example riding on a flat). But what I don't fully understand is why the damage becomes a problem or whether the tyre actually needs replacing after being damaged or not. Can someone explain the full consequences of a damaged tyre and whether it should be replaced or not?",
"title": "Why is a damaged bike tyre a problem?",
"forum": "bicycles.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tire><damage>",
"link": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/69823",
"author": "bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/50234/KillerKode"
} | 29_21 | [
[
"If the damage is something that could cause the tire to fail, that's a safety issue and the tire should be replaced. A really damaged tire may puncture more readily, suddenly blowout, negatively affect braking or traction while cornering or come off the rim. A sudden failure of the front tire is very likely to cause you to crash. If the tire rolls off the rim you could ruin the rim on the pavement before you can safely stop.",
"A tyre can explode due to damage, and this is more likely to happen when it is under stress (e.g. when turning at speed). A blowout in the front tyre is likely to cause a crash due to loss of control. More minor surface damage may not be a problem, but damage can grow and affect the rims or brakes if the tyre rolls off the rims."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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[
"A tyre can explode due to damage, and this is more likely to happen when it is under stress (e.g. when turning at speed). A blowout in the front tyre is likely to cause a crash due to loss of control.",
"More minor surface damage may not be a problem, but damage can grow and affect the rims or brakes if the tyre rolls off the rims."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Ale yeast strains are best used at temperatures ranging from 10 to 25°C, though some strains will not actively ferment below 12°C (33).",
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],
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"text": "Ale yeasts are generally regarded as top-fermenting yeasts since they rise to the surface during fermentation, creating a very thick, rich yeast head.",
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"text": "That is why the term \"top-fermenting\" is associated with ale yeasts.",
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"text": "Fermentation by ale yeasts at these relatively warmer temperatures produces a beer high in esters, which many regard as a distinctive character of ale beers.",
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"text": "Top-fermenting yeasts are used for brewing ales, porters, stouts, Altbier, Kölsch, and wheat beers.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "* Lager yeast strains are best used at temperatures ranging from 7 to 15°C.",
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"text": "At these temperatures, lager yeasts grow less rapidly than ale yeasts, and with less surface foam they tend to settle out to the bottom of the fermenter as fermentation nears completion.",
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"text": "This is why they are often referred to as \"bottom\" yeasts.",
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"text": "The final flavour of the beer will depend a great deal on the strain of lager yeast and the temperatures at which it was fermented.",
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"text": "Some of the lager styles made from bottom-fermenting yeasts are Pilsners, Dortmunders, Märzen, Bocks, and American malt liquors.",
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{
"text": "* (All information from BeerAdvocate .)",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/22/BryceH",
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"text": "A pictty good summary: (Source: BeerSci:",
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"text": "What Is The Difference Between A Lager And An Ale? )",
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"text": "The first part of the picture depicts the description in my answer about where the yeast \"works,\" the temperatures at which they work, and then some common types of ales/lagers.",
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"text": "The second picture shows S. cerevisiae (common ale yeast) and a wild yeast S. eubayanus making some new cold tolerant yeast strain babies that are the common lager yeast (S. pastorianus).",
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"text": "Note: my biology is rusty but from my reading and looking at the picture, this is what I derived.",
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"text": "(From @Grohlier's comment)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "This is pretty good explanation Source:",
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{
"text": "Twenty Things Worth Knowing About Beer.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Ales and lagers are brewed with different types of yeast.",
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"text": "Ale yeast ferments at the top of the brewing vat at a comfortable room temperature while lager yeast ferments at the bottom of the vat at a lower temperature.",
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"text": "The \"low and slow\" lager fermentation brings out more complex flavors.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The primary difference is the yeast used to ferment the beer -- ales use yeasts strains which work at a warmer temperature (10-25 deg C)",
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"text": "than lager yeasts strains (7-15 deg C).",
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"text": "You may hear the terms \"top-fermenting\" for ale yeasts and \"bottom-fermenting\" for lagers, but I think that's more-or-less happen-stance -- the yeasts themselves are not inclined toward a particular altitude.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The main difference between the two is the different types of yeast that they both use.",
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"text": "Lager yeasts are more tolerant to cold temperatures and so are fermented at a lower temperature.",
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"text": "This is what gives the lager a crisp flavour.",
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"text": "The ale yeasts ferment at higher temperatures and take less time to complete as the yeast is more active the higher the temperature.",
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"text": "Both types also use very different hops and malts... Source: http://www.homebrew-zone.com",
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] | {
"question": "Apart from coming out of different taps, some ales seem very similar to lagers (although there are clearly a much greater variety of ales). Is there a difference in the way they are made?",
"title": "What is the difference between an ale and a lager?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><ale><lager>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/8",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/7/Tom Medley"
} | 29_22 | [
[
"Ales and lagers are brewed with different types of yeast. Ale yeast ferments at the top of the brewing vat at a comfortable room temperature while lager yeast ferments at the bottom of the vat at a lower temperature. The \"low and slow\" lager fermentation brings out more complex flavors.",
"Ale yeasts tend to rise to the top during fermentation (top-fermenting) and develop a thick, rich yest head, while lager yeasts stay at the bottom. The temperature of ale fermentation is also warmer, leading to differences in taste."
]
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"Ale yeasts tend to rise to the top during fermentation (top-fermenting) and develop a thick, rich yest head, while lager yeasts stay at the bottom.",
"The temperature of ale fermentation is also warmer, leading to differences in taste."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "That depends on what you mean by \"naturally\".",
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"text": "There are some strains, such as the \"Super High Gravity Ale Yeast\" by WyLabs, which can handle up to 25%.",
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"text": "But there are techniques, such as freezing the beer to create a more concentrated product, which have been used to get up to 60+%.",
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"text": "In this case, alcohol is not added , but rather, water is removed , altering your ABV.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The reason there's a limit is once the alcohol content is too high, it kills the yeast, so fermentation stops and no more alcohol is produced.",
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"text": "I think it's generally around 15% alcohol by volume, but the exact amount will depend on the type of yeast.",
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"text": "EDIT:",
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"text": "The Wikipedia page on yeast in winemaking has some details on when different types of yeasts die out.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I am taking this from a website cited at the bottom.",
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"text": "Popsci has a LOT of cool beer articles.",
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"text": "Fractional freezing is the best way to increase the alcohol content of beer.",
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"text": "Fractional freezing --",
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"text": "\"jacking\" in old parlance -- has a long history in the United States.",
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"text": "The beverage applejack was produced using this method by first fermenting apple juice into hard apple cider.",
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"text": "Then barrels of this cider were left outside during the winter and the connoisseur would occasionally fish out the frozen chunks of water, leaving an ever-concentrated batch of hard alcohol behind.",
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"text": "At some point in the 20-25 percent ABV range, the liquor would stop freezing at ambient temperatures and the booze was ready to consume as \"Jersey Lightning.",
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"text": "\" It was also used as currency.",
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"text": "Moving into the malt-beverage world, brewers in Germany use fractional freezing to make eisbock.",
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"text": "These brews are usually just regular bock beers, which clock in at 6 percent ABV, freeze-concentrated to something in the 13 percent ABV range.",
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"text": "Frankly, there are probably easier ways to get high-proof beers (make a barleywine, for example) than by starting with a mid-strength one and concentrating it, but there's a market for eisbocks and it's possible to find them in the US as well.",
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"text": "A more infamous set of freeze-concentrated beers was made by the Scottish brewery BrewDog in their quest to make \"the strongest beer in the world.",
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"text": "\" The first was Tactical Nuclear Penguin, a beer that started with an ABV in the teens and ended at 32 percent ABV.",
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"text": "Then a little brewing war started up between BrewDog and German brewery Schorschbräu to make ever-stronger beers.",
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"text": "Schorschbräu made a Schorschbock at 40 percent ABV, BrewDog countered with Sink the Bismarck at 41 percent ABV.",
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"text": "Then came another beer at 55 percent ABV (that's 110 proof, my friends).",
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"text": "Schorschbräu is current record-holder with Schorschbock 57, at 57 percent ABV.",
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{
"text": "Article",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Note that Ann Hagen (\"Anglo-Saxon Food and Drink\") argued that the strongest naturally brewed drinks available in Anglo-Saxon times were probably strongly brewed meads",
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"text": "at least 20% abv.",
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"text": "Her basis is in discussions of specific gravity of the resulting beverages in historical records.",
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"text": "I think it is likely close to that and no more because I see other reasons to wonder if specific gravity could have been reduced by other additives (in particular henbane).",
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"text": "I love studying history.",
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"text": "It is useful in so many fields!",
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"text": "In general getting much above 10-15%abv requires specialty yeasts or concentration techniques, and getting much above 20% is going to require some sort of concentration.",
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"text": "I have however seen cases where these rules go out the window in wine making experiments (a friend of mine accidently brewed a mango wine with 22% abv using standard wine yeasts, which surprised us both).",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/117/Chris Travers",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "There is a beer called \"Snake Venom\", by \"Brewmeister\" a scottish brewery.",
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"text": "The alcohol content is 67.5% .",
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"text": "It has been verified by Trading Standards and is officially named the world´s strongest beer.",
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"text": "The wiki entry states that they use the process of fractional freezing to achieve such a high percentage of alcohol.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "28% ABV is the best I have managed with my yeast though it needs plenty of sugar added to whatever you are brewing apart from mead.",
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"text": "Getting the yeast from the boot's from",
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"text": "it's original 8% to 20% took 8 years getting it from 20% to 28%",
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"text": "has taken 25 year's",
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"text": "and I haven't been able to get any increase on that 28% in the last 5 years though it is getting more consistent & given enough sugar",
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"text": "it rarely dips below 28%.",
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"text": "Ignore any references to Brewmeister here",
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"text": "there \"cold brewing\" process is Fractional freezing more conmanly called Freeze distillation where they remove water by freezing it out this has nothing to do with the brewing process.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I just finished a batch of Applejack.",
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"text": "After freeze distillation, I obtained a 19% ABV, however the yeast kicked back on STRONGLY after it warmed up again.",
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"text": "I had to boil it to kill the fermentation.",
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"text": "Different yeasts can handle different ABV before being killed off by the alcohol.",
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"text": "I used Lavlin EC-118.",
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{
"text": "For your yeast it may differ.",
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] | {
"question": "What is the highest level of alcohol you can achieve when brewing beer naturally, without adding alcohol? I know that many strong, popular beers (~10% alcohol) are simply mixed with alcohol, but what level of alcohol can be achieved in natural brewing process?",
"title": "What is the highest alcohol content achievable through brewing?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/110",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/21/Danubian Sailor"
} | 29_23 | [
[
"S6: In general getting much above 10-15%abv requires specialty yeasts or concentration techniques, and getting much above 20% is going to require some sort of concentration. The reason there's a limit is once the alcohol content is too high, it kills the yeast, so fermentation stops and no more alcohol is produced. But there are techniques, such as freezing the beer to create a more concentrated product, which have been used to get up to 60+%. ",
"While there are some exceptions to this rule, and some yeasts that can handle higher levels of fermentation, the limit is usually about 20% with normal fermentation techniques. Fractional freezing is an effective way to concentrate a beer and thereby increase its alcohl content."
]
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"While there are some exceptions to this rule, and some yeasts that can handle higher levels of fermentation, the limit is usually about 20% with normal fermentation techniques.",
"Fractional freezing is an effective way to concentrate a beer and increase its alcohl content."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The beer will not be bad in the sense of unsafe to drink, since no harmful pathogens grow once the beer is fully fermented.",
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"text": "So you can certainly drink the beer.",
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"text": "However, the beer may not taste good!",
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{
"text": "Over time, the beer will oxidize, both from oxygen introduced during packaging, but also through the release of oxygen from compounds previously oxidized in the beer.",
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"text": "The oxygen causes the beer to stale, producing tones of sherry, paper, cardboard.",
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{
"text": "Hop aromas are muted, and hop beta acids oxidize to produce an unrefined bitterness.",
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{
"text": "Other forms of staling can lead to a soap taste.",
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{
"text": "Generally, the higher the alcohol content of the beer",
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"text": "the less you need to be concerned with the use by date.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/112/mdma",
"score": 38
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "StillTasty.com has the following to say with regards to beer - particularly specifying that this applies to regular or light beer from bottles or cans manufactured by major breweries: Opened Containers Good for 1 day, refrigerated.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Tips: Keep refrigerated and tightly covered.",
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],
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0
],
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[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "After opening, most commercially manufactured beer will remain safe to consume if properly stored, but it will quickly become flat and lose flavor.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Unopened Containers Good for 4-6 months, in pantry or refrigerator.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Tips: The precise answer to the question \"How long does beer last?",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "\" depends to a large extent on storage conditions - store beer in cool, dark area.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Keep beer away from direct sources of heat or light; too much exposure to light can cause beer to develop a foul taste.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "To maximize the shelf life of beer, store beer at a temperature between 45° F and 55° F (colder than the typical room temperature, but warmer than a refrigerator) - if this is not possible, store beer in the refrigerator.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Storage times shown are for best quality only - after that, the beer's color or flavor may change, but in most cases, it will still be safe to consume if it has been stored properly.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "How to tell if beer is bad?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "If beer develops an off odor, flavor or appearance, it should be discarded for quality purposes.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "\"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Best By,\" \"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Best if Used By,\" and \"Use By\" dates on commercially packaged foods sold in the United States represent the manufacturer's estimate of how long the product will remain at peak quality - in most cases, the beer will still be safe to consume after that date, as long as it has been stored properly and the package is not damaged.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Beer made by some micro-breweries may not retain peak quality as long as beer from major breweries.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/162/user162",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This depends entirely on the beer.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "As a rule of thumb I would say that any beer which is re-fermented once bottled, can be preserved for several years.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "You need to be careful when preserving, but it's not unheard of to drink 35 year old beers.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Often these beers are the darker, stronger ones like Westmalle or Orval.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/138/Lucas Kauffman",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This depends on many factors, but usually best-before date is what is states, also the date before which the full quality of the product is guaranteed.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "It doesn't mean you can't consume it afterwards, it just means that you can't make formal complaint about the taste or potential sickness caused by consumption of the product after that date.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "The people from food industry said me, that it is general rule, that the best-before date is normally exaggerated in bottom direction, just to protect the company from potential sues.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I've often drank beer much after best-before date, and as long as that date wasn't exceeded by more than a year, I haven't noticed any big difference in taste.",
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],
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1
],
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[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/21/Danubian Sailor",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It should still be safe, taste good is a personal opinion.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Some beers age well, high alcohol, sours, and smoke beers.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Others don't age as well (hoppy beers).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Plus it all depends on how the beer was stored.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Out in a hot garage?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Sitting in your window sill?",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/529/Wayne In Yak",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "Does beer really go bad after the 'best before'-date? I hear I can drink beer even after the expiration date, but is it safe and does it still taste good?",
"title": "Does beer really go bad after the 'best before'-date?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<taste><health><preservation>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/195",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/138/Lucas Kauffman"
} | 29_24 | [
[
"Beer can be drunk after the best before date as long as it has not been opened. Over time, however, the quality will decrease, e.g. taste, but it will still be safe to consume. Best before date protects the manufacturer as you cannot make claims after that date if you drink the beer and you get sick. ",
"This will depend on the type of beer and the manufacturing techniques, but beer is usually safe to drink well after the best before date, which is often a very conservative estimate of its quality and not an indication of whether it is safe. The beer should be discarded if it tastes off, but in most cases it just develops a taste that may not be as pleasant."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"This will depend on the type of beer and the manufacturing techniques, but beer is usually safe to drink well after the best before date, which is often a very conservative estimate of its quality and not an indication of whether it is safe.",
"The beer should be discarded if it tastes off, but in most cases it just develops a taste that may not be as pleasant."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Beer should be chilled to the proper serving temperature, which may vary according to ingredients and brewing methods, and even most of those are not set in stone, but can also vary according to taste.",
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"text": "Guinness, for example, has a specific serving temperature related to how it was traditionally stored in Ireland (Kegs in the \"cold\" room, which was often just a room carved out of the hill behind the pub or similar).",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "As far a why grocery and convenience stores keep it chilled, it's basically appealing to the \"grab and go\" drinker, who intends on consuming it in the very near future, or with a short transport.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Often they are slightly higher price than if you were to go to a liquor store.",
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},
{
"text": "Liquor stores have much larger selection and inventory, and refrigerating everything would be cost prohibitive.",
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-1
],
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"text": "The price is generally slightly less than the grab and go locations, although many liqour stores still keep some of the more popular and mainstream beers in the cooler as well.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "For most commercially available beers, you can cool, warm and recool several times with minimal to no changes to taste.",
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Some craft and/or home brews may be affected more by this process, but I don't know if there is any kind of a list available.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/116/JohnP",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Heat and light are the enemies of beer.",
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1
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "If you have a \"bottle conditioned\" beer -- that is, one in which live yeast are still present -- then under warmer conditions, you potentially have active yeast.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "To some extent, this may just increase the carbonation and alcohol content.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, if most of the fermentable sugars have already been fermented (that is, converted to CO2 and alcohol), the yeast will start \"eating\" each other, which will result in some very \"off\" flavors (though nothing toxic).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Under cooler conditions, the yeast will be only minimally active.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Regardless of whether your beer is \"bottle conditioned\" or not, the hop acids present from the brewing process don't respond favorably to heat or light.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In particular, light can cause them to turn \"skunky\", which is why Corona -- with their clear glass bottles -- often tastes \"skunky\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Don't trust a beer in a clear bottle ... seriously.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Keep it cool",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "; keep it dark; keep it upright (unlike wine).",
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"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/791/WA_Homebrewer",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "To quote Strongbad , \"A one that is not cold, is scarcely a one at all.\"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "In supermarkets you will often see the same beers stored in refrigerated and non-refrigerated sections.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Or you may be able to get a beer cold somewhere but",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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[
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]
},
{
"text": "only warm somewhere else.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you go to a large beer store you will see beer of every variety sitting in aisles.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The general reason for keeping beer on ice in a store is so it can be drunk right away.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The one exception I can think of is bottle-conditioned beer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Beer where some degree of fermentation occurs in the bottle, giving it both natural carbonation and causing the flavor to develop over time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The flavors the beer will take on during conditioning vary based on warm or cold conditioning, and the beer will have a more limited shelf life.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You will typically only see bottle conditioned beer as a product of home brewing.",
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5/Brian Nickel",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When talking about the temperature to store",
"label": [
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],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "/serve beer",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "it is important to note that there is a difference between types of beer (and what we call beer in the UK and what people call beer in other countries!).",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "The Cask Marque website has a simple page denoting the various temperatures that some types of beer/ale should be stored at.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It is important to note that some beers also need to be stored upright to ensure any live sediment stays at the bottom of the bottle.",
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0
],
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0
],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/76/jamesakadamingo",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Every beer has a shelf life.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Beer will certainly \"last\" longer if refrigerated.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That is, the flavor will evolve more slowly over time at lower temperatures.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Storage at higher than room temperature will invite a turning of the beer's flavor for the worse.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
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},
{
"text": "In some cases, an aged beer might be considered to have an appealing taste, but still refrigeration will slow the aging process and allow the beer to be kept longer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Additionally, the flavor of highly hopped beers will degrade fairly quickly (within several months) at room temperature, and most people would agree that very hoppy beers in particular should be refrigerated because of this.",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/843/pjd",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Beer is usually found in fridges in shops and supermarkets. At home, you would store it in the fridge as well before drinking. On the other hand, many liquor shops have stacks of beer cans outside fridges, and beer in kegs isn't usually refrigerated when it's transported. What are the benefits of keeping beer refrigerated? Which kinds of beer should/must be refrigerated and which ones don't need to be?",
"title": "Why should beer be kept in the fridge?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<storage><temperature>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/215",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/53/Lars Kotthoff"
} | 29_25 | [
[
"S0: Beer should be chilled to the proper serving temperature, which may vary according to ingredients and brewing methods, and even most of those are not set in stone, but can also vary according to taste. Beer is kept chilled in shops to appeal to the buy and drink now customer. However, many beer shops and supermarkets do not keep beer chilled. Heat and light are enemies of beer so if it is kept refrigerated it will keep its quality for much longer.",
"Commercially available beers can be cooled and warmed to room temperature several times without impacting taste. Chilled beers are sold for consumption soon afterwards, but beer can also be sold cheaper at room temperature for later refrigeration and consumption. Heat and light can cause beer to degrade, so keeping it in a cool and dark place is important, especially with certain types and with clear bottles."
]
] | {
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[
"Commercially available beers can be cooled and warmed to room temperature several times without impacting taste. Chilled beers are sold for consumption soon afterwards, but beer can also be sold cheaper at room temperature for later refrigeration and consumption.",
"Heat and light can cause beer to degrade, so keeping it in a cool and dark place is important, especially with certain types and with clear bottles."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Ok, so the basic brewing process is this (not homebrewing detail here, just a distant overview): Heat your wort with water, steep, then add hops and boil, add more hops as you begin to cool, once cool enough add yeast, ferment, bottle.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "Flavored beers can be made a bunch of different ways.",
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"text": "You can add herbs, spices, or flavorings before or after the boil, for example.",
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},
{
"text": "Seeds and roots would usually be added before the boil; herbs would usually be added after.",
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},
{
"text": "I would probably add fruit after but this is something that folks could argue about forever.",
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"text": "If you buy something like smoke-flavored beer, chili flavored beer, etc.",
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"text": "these are probably made this way.",
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{
"text": "There's a second type of flavored beer I have seen for sale in certain bars and restaurants in Asia though.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "That's where you take a fairly light beer on tap and add it to a glass along with a shot of flavoring syrup (like lychee or peach).",
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},
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"text": "These usually have sweeter flavor with clearer fruit flavors than the fermented fruit beers.",
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},
{
"text": "If the beer is pasteurized, the flavoring could be added before bottling and carbonation.",
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},
{
"text": "I think that is what you are seeing.",
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],
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/117/Chris Travers",
"score": 16
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Rogue Voodoo Doughnut Maple Bacon Ale is an interesting example because the ingredients list shows two different ways flavors can be imparted to beer.",
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"text": "The smoky bacon flavor comes both from the actual inclusion of bacon and from the smoked malt:",
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"text": "Briess Cherrywood Smoked Malt, Weyermann Beechwood Smoked Malt, House-smoked Hickory Malt .",
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"text": "As discussed in Does chocolate stout contain real chocolate?",
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"text": ", certain flavors can be achieved through the malting process rather than through additional ingredients.",
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"text": "Similarly maple is fermentable and could be added directly to boost alcohol content and impart a more subtle maple flavor.",
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"text": "That said, this beer does contain actual bacon and \"maple flavor\".",
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"text": "To get a look at and when and how the flavors are added, we can look at this clone recipe .",
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{
"text": "Name Amount",
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{
"text": "Time UseFenugreek 0.25 oz 5.0 min BoilMaple Extract 1.0 oz 6.0 days PrimaryBacon, cooked 4.0 oz 0.0 days Bottle Here, fenugreek is added during the boil phase, while creating the wort.",
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"text": "The boiling helps extract the flavor from the herb.",
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"text": "Maple extract gets added later during fermentation.",
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"text": "Maple extract or syrup could be used, but syrup is more expensive and fermentable so a stronger maple flavor is being achieved with extract.",
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"text": "The official ingredient list calls for \"Pure Maple Flavoring\"",
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"text": "so I assume the same is being done there.",
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"text": "Lastly the bacon is being added at the end.",
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"text": "This is to add direct flavoring to the beer without interfering in the fermentation process.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5/Brian Nickel",
"score": 6
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I would like to add that although I have not confirmed it",
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"text": "I read somewhere",
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"text": "the purity laws had less to do with \"making great beer\" and more to do with them being poor.",
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"text": "They didn't want certain grains or things being used for beer as it drove up the price of bread and other foods.",
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"text": "In the following article it is states they didn't want to waste valuable grains for beer: April 23, 1516: Bavaria Cracks Down on Beer Brewers .",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6922/Andrew ",
"score": 3
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},
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Some types of hops have interesting flavors.",
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"text": "For example, simcoe hops has a pine-y, fruity taste.",
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"text": "Some interesting beer ideas would be pine, rosemary, or cardamom (I've had one - it was amazing).",
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"text": "Also, some white beers (like Hoegaarden) have coriander and citrus peel.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/182/user182",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "There is whole style of beer, which is made with honey.",
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"text": "It is made by adding honey to the wort during or before fermentation.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Thanks to addition of honey in early stages you get balanced, homogeneous taste.",
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],
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"text": "Nothing to add that honey will ferment along with malt.",
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"text": "Technically you can add anything to beer when it is ready (including honey), but then you get this aggressive flavor on top.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I just add it at the secondary fermentation stage when I homebrew beer.",
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"text": "I made a belgian style wheat beer and simply added some vanilla extract.",
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"text": "edit : I just added some cloves to a dark beer brew when decanting it out of my fermentation vessel.",
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"text": "Worked very well.",
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"text": "Additions don't need to be a liquid.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6920/bigbadmouse",
"score": 2
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}
] | {
"question": "I've heard of beers such as our local brand in the Philippines and this one, and though I haven't sampled them yet, I am quite curious: how do you add flavor to beer? I've drank a few style of beers but I haven't dealt with any \"flavored\". As I'm not familiar with the brewing process yet, I want to know how as I don't think it's as simple as adding a syrup on the beer after brewing.",
"title": "How can a beer be flavored?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><flavor>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/256",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/127/IBG"
} | 29_26 | [
[
"Many different types of flavoring can be added to beer. Some of these are herbs and spices, seeds and roots, malt, maple, honey, vanilla extract, cloves, different flavored hops.",
"Flavourings can be added at different stages of the fermentation process or before drinking, depending on factors like whether they can ferment along with the beer. Additions do not need to be liquid, and some flavourings are achieved using different hops. Additions at different stages of the process are suitable for different ingredients and have an influence on the flavour."
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"Flavourings can be added at different stages of the fermentation process or before drinking, depending on factors like whether they can ferment along with the beer.",
"Additions do not need to be liquid, and some flavourings are achieved using different hops. Additions at different stages of the process are suitable for different ingredients and have an influence on the flavour."
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Take a bucket.",
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"text": "Or a bowl.",
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"text": "Or a cooler.",
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"text": "Or any other similar vessel.",
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"text": "Put your beer bottles or cans (sealed!",
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},
{
"text": "For the love of god, sealed!)",
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"text": "at the bottom of the bucket.",
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},
{
"text": "Fill it most of the way with ice.",
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"text": "Then fill in with water until the bottles are submerged.",
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},
{
"text": "Then throw in any remaining ice.",
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{
"text": "Finally, add a volume of salt commensurate with the quantity of water, both solid and liquid, you've already got in there.",
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"text": "Wait anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes depending on desired coldness and quantity of beer.",
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{
"text": "Enjoy!",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(Rinse the rim of the bottle if you're finicky.",
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},
{
"text": "Also, this will probably ruin the label.",
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},
{
"text": "Sorry.",
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},
{
"text": "Why do you care about that anyway?",
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},
{
"text": "You weirdo.)",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/8/LessPop_MoreFizz",
"score": 22
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another option might be some what less conservative, but instead of using ice cubes you could also use chilling rocks .",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "This is also often used as an alternative for cooling whisky without diluting it.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Soapstone is a non-porous, odorless and inert stone.",
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],
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],
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"text": "It is tasteless and will not absorb odors from your freezer like ice cubes do.",
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"text": "Soapstone has a high thermal mass, giving it the natural ability to retain its temperature for extended periods of time.",
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"text": "If you are a bit more patient, you can just put the beer in the freezer for about 10 minutes.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/138/Lucas Kauffman",
"score": 8
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "One method I know is to have large, heavy steins kept in the freezer.",
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"text": "That way as soon as you bring beer, you can cool it by pouring into the stein.",
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{
"text": "It won't cool your lukewarm beer to optimal temperature but it will give it a good few degrees drop.",
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{
"text": "You can use \"reusable ice cubes\", which are essentially tiny plastic bags with water - that way you won't dilute your beer.",
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"text": "There's also a stainless steel variety, it has slightly worse heat capacity but sinks to the bottom, which is less annoying than plastic bags floating in your stein.",
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{
"text": "I read somewhere about making ice cubes from beer somewhere, so that they don't dilute your beer (you need a good freezer for that though).",
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"text": "I can't vouch if they don't affect the taste though.",
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"text": "A smart method though, is to use the buffer beer.",
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"text": "Remove the \"buffer beer\" from the fridge, put the the lukewarm beer in the fridge, drink the buffer beer - meanwhile the beer you put in the fridge becomes your new buffer beer ;) edit: if you go with reusable ice cubes, use ones that contain water inside.",
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{
"text": "Don't buy in to the scam of granite ice cubes or solid steel ice cubes.",
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"text": "Their thermal capacity is abysmal.",
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{
"text": "To provide the amount of temperature drop a single normal ice cube provides, you'd need to fill your glass with granite cubes to nearly the brim.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/130/SF.",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "At the Defcon security conference in Las Vegas, the Beverage Cooling Contraption Contest is an exciting outdoor event.",
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},
{
"text": "Over the years, techniques have included adiabatic cooling (using a jet engine), dry ice, liquid nitrogen etc.",
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{
"text": "In 2008, this team managed to cool a keg of beer from 80F to 33F in 35 seconds using air power, dry ice and alcohol.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/187/Rory Alsop",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It takes a lot of time to cool a beer bottle in fridge.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "But it takes much less time if you put them in freezer.",
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},
{
"text": "However, you shouldn't forget about such bottle, if you don't want the beer to freeze and explode the bottle.",
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"text": "If it's not fast enough, take a few glasses, pour a bit beer into each and put them all into fridge.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "They will cool down much faster than the whole bottle, but the risk of making mess with broken glass is bigger, so it's better to check them each few minutes.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/21/Danubian Sailor",
"score": 1
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One method I've used seen to good effect is to wrap the bottle in wet paper towels, and then put that in the freezer.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Once the paper is frozen, the beer is quite cool, also the paper can be removed just by twisting it",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "and it comes right off.",
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"text": "Obviously, don't forget that you put them in the freezer to start with...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/195/Robin Sheat",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "It's happened to the best of us: you really want a nice hefeweizen or maybe a good bitter, but all you have are room-temperature bottles. Short of waiting an hour or so or (god forbid) putting ice in it, how can a bottle or can of beer be effectively cooled quickly?",
"title": "What are some ways to quickly cool a beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<temperature><drinking>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/293",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/80/Fishtoaster"
} | 29_27 | [
[
"To cool beer you can out it in the freezer for 10 minutes, keep large steins in the freezer, make ice cubes using beer so the taste isn't diluted, use ordinary ice cubes or chilling rocks or warp the bottle in wet paper towels and put in the freezer.",
"Reusable ice cubes or chilling rocks or steel cubes can be used to chill beer without diluting it. A freezer will chill beer faster, but there is a risk of the liquid expanding as it freezes if you leave it for too long. Wrap bottles and cans in wet paper towels, which will cool the can in a shorter time."
]
] | {
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"Reusable ice cubes or chilling rocks or steel cubes can be used to chill beer without diluting it.",
"A freezer will chill beer faster, but there is a risk of the liquid expanding as it freezes if you leave it for too long. Wrap bottles and cans in wet paper towels, which will cool the can in a shorter time."
]
] |
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"sents": [
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"text": "Serving temperature is, of course, a preference.",
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],
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[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Serve it frozen or boiling if you want.",
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},
{
"text": "However, a few opinions are: CAMRA says that Real Ale (aka cask ale, usually english-style) should be served at 12-14 °C (54-57 °F), which is colder than room temperature, but warmer than your usually keg beer.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "Ratebeer says the same thing regardless of whether it’s cask or not.",
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "BeerAdvocate says 7-10 °C (45-50 °F) for an english bitter.",
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],
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],
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2
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},
{
"text": "So, if you’re looking for a rule of thumb: “cool but not super-cold” or “cellar temp” will probably get you close enough.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There may be a general consensus for the \"proper\" serving temperature, which could involve questions like \"what do most people seem to like?\", and \"what temperature does the brewer feel best accentuates the parts of the beer they want to highlight?\".",
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},
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"text": "So there are good reasons for beer to be served at particular temperatures.",
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},
{
"text": "In the case of your British bitters, age-old recipes were probably designed to allow the beer to taste its best at room temperature.",
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},
{
"text": "As for a modern British beer, I suppose that would depend on what the brewer had in mind.",
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"text": "That said, my general thought is that you should drink a beer at the temperature you most like it, so the should part of your question is self-determined, and don't let anyone tell you that your taste buds are wrong.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Myself, I tend to like my American IPAs cooler than the typical recommended serving temperature.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "And before I visited the UK, I couldn't stand a room temperature beer.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Then, after a week in Tunbridge Wells, I picked up a large appreciation for hand-pumped UK beer, served at room temp.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So you should open yourself to trying new things as well.",
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],
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}
],
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Just like everyone else said, it's a preference.",
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},
{
"text": "I alway say that the darker the beer, the warmer it has to be, so here are my rules: - Light beer/White beer/Kriek :",
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],
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],
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},
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"text": "In the fridge and goes in the freezer for a couple of minutes before serving - Golden beer : In the fridge - Amber beer : In the fridge and stay at room temperature for a couple of minutes before serving - Dark beer : At room temperature and goes in the fridge before serving - Stout : At room temperature at all time.",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The basic rule is that beers should be served at the temp they were fermented.",
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1
],
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],
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{
"text": "Lagers should be served at about 40°F and ales around 50°F - 55°F.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Having said this",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I usually like my beers a little colder on a warm summer day.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Try this experiment: chill your beer to 35°F - 40°F and pour about 2/3 of it into the proper glass for that beer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Drink at least 4 or 5 sips, gulps, or",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
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"text": "however you typically consume it.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Then put what is left in the microwave for about 20 seconds (time will vary with the output of the microwave).",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "This will reduce the carbonation some so pour the other third right in the middle of the glass without tipping the glass to get some head, on the beer that is.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It makes a big difference on some beers.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "less on others.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also try different types of glasses and see what you like.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Remember, everybody's palates are different and yours will vary depending on several factors such as, what you've been eating or drinking, how much beer you've already consumed, and how tired you are.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "It's a good idea to eat a bite or two of good bread like a baguette to cleanse your palate between samples.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The above does not apply to mass produced lagers.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4080/user4080",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It's always going to be a matter of preference.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I prefer most beers around 55-60 but do not hesitate to drink beer at room temperature.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Some styles are more enjoyable approaching room temperature.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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2
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]
},
{
"text": "Historically, most beer was served at cellar temperature to room temperature, depending upon what was available.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "That isn't just an English tradition.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Any beer can be consumed warm and drinking it ice cold as mass produced lagers are usually served tends to hide most of the flavor that you are paying for in a good beer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Give it a try and see what you like.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Maybe you don't like your beer a little warmer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Enjoy what you like.",
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"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4188/reverseapachemaster",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "First, let's say there is what is considered \"proper\", and then there is personal-preference.",
"label": [
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "To be a good Cicerone, know what is \"proper\" but also show tolerance for personal preference.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "With that out the way, it's definitely considered the \"proper\" thing to do to serve English beers warmer than ice-cold.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Many of the delicate malty flavours you get from English malt, the fruitiness from esters produced by the English yeast, plus grassy, herbal or floral tones from the hops are muted greatly when the beer is served too cold.",
"label": [
1
],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some people say it's served at room room temperature.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Modern room temperature of around 20°C/68",
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],
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},
{
"text": "°F is too warm.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The ideal serving temperature is a cold cellar - typically around 12°C;55°F.",
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],
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],
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[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/112/mdma",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "Given that the British tend to drink their beer at a higher temperature than those of us in the US, should beer brewed in an English style be consumed that way? The justification I can think of is: the people developing the taste of the beer probably consumed it at a certain temperature, which might have not been the ice-cold levels that predominate in the Colonies.",
"title": "Should English/English-style beers be served warmer, since that is how the taste was developed?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><temperature><taste>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/415",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/29/Savage Henry"
} | 29_28 | [
[
"The basic rule is that beers should be served at the temp they were fermented. Lagers should be served at about 40°F and ales around 50°F - 55°F. However, people have their own personal preference. Nevertheless, it's definitely considered the \"proper\" thing to do to serve English beers warmer than ice-cold.",
"This is a matter of preference, although English beers are usually not served ice cold. Some people develop a taste for this style, and it can depend on factors like weather and activity. While English beer is often called warm, the proper serving temperature is generally that of a cold cellar rather than room temperature. This is closer to the fermenting temperature and allows the flavours to be tasted better."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"This is a matter of preference, although English beers are usually not served ice cold. Some people develop a taste for this style, and it can depend on factors like weather and activity.",
"While English beer is often called warm, the proper serving temperature is generally that of a cold cellar rather than room temperature. This is closer to the fermenting temperature and allows the flavours to be tasted better."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Most beer has a lot of calories.",
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"text": "Just like any other calorie intake, if you consume more than you burn, you will gain weight.",
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{
"text": "So, yes, drinking \"too much\" beer will \"increase the size of belly\".",
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"text": "What \"too much\" means, however, is dependent on your other habits.",
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"text": "The typical \"(beer | pot)",
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],
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},
{
"text": "(belly | gut)\" is usually \" Abdominal Obesity \" which, by definition, means obesity in the abdominal area specifically, i.e. the belly.",
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/192/Ryan Kinal",
"score": 20
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A beer belly comes not so much from beer and the frequent drinking of it as it does with the food that is typically associated with beer (for example, burgers, pizza, etc... very high in calories).",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/276/Squirtle",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Well, yes, beer has some calories, according to this article; The Truth About Beer and Your Belly : A typical beer has 150 calories – and if you down several in one sitting, you can end up with serious calorie overload. but read further Alcohol can increase your appetite.",
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{
"text": "Further, when you're drinking beer at a bar or party, the food on hand is often fattening fare like pizza, wings, and other fried foods I've heard from a lot of people that beer increases appetite more that other alcoholic drinks, and in fact beer pairs very well with such calorie rich food as pig knuckle, or similar... as well as pizza, chips etc.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you compare calories in beer and pig knuckle you'll see what is more likely to cause obesity.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/21/Danubian Sailor",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Calories are calories.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "A typical middle-aged male needs about 2100 calories per day.",
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],
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},
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"text": "Consuming more calories than this per day will increase your weight.",
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},
{
"text": "If you drink four 12-ounce regular (5%) beers per day, you will add between 500-700 calories to your daily diet -- depending on the style of beer you consume, meaning its sugar content, which will vary with beer style.",
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1
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "This calorie range translates into around 3500-5000 extra calories per week, which is equivalent to gaining about 1.0-1.4 lbs of weight per week if this calorie intake is above your body's minimum requirement (ie: 2100 x 7 days).",
"label": [
1
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{
"text": "After 3 months you will have gained anywhere from 13-18 lbs.",
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},
{
"text": "It doesn't matter what you eat or don't eat along with your beer.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If your beer drinking brings you over the 2100 calorie per-day threshold, those calories will show up as fat in your body.",
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "All of this assumes no exercise.",
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},
{
"text": "If you are active and can burn off 300-500 calories a day through a combination of working out and regular body movement (general walking, going up and down stairs, prolonged upper-body activity), then you will cut into that calorie gain in proportion to your activity.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/1092/tinypriest",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Drinking beer alone does not cause you to get a big belly, it's the amount food that goes along with it.",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "People usually drink beer in the evening, and tend to eat a lot of food at the same time.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "And this is great and dandy, but what people forget about is that they eat late (here combined with drinking beer so even more calories), and then go straight to bed.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The body does not have a chance to break down all of these calories, and instead all of this excess fat is being stored.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "In short, the beer alone does not cause the fat, it's the food that goes along with it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/1385/R. Wlodarski",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes it does!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "A beer belly is caused by excess calorie intake and reduced calorie expenditure because of a sedentary lifestyle.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Read in detail: http://healthmeup.com/news-weight-loss/the-truth-about-beer-belly-fat/5947",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/1080/HealthMeUp.com",
"score": 0
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Also taking up several glasses of beer in a day can increase your blood pressure level.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "People already suffering from high blood pressure are advised not to take in consumption at all.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "https://www.addictionrehabcenters.com/addiction-treatment/inpatient-rehab/",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/10164/ Pamela Parker",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "Someone told me that drinking beer will increase the size of our belly. Is it true? Since I don’t drink beer, I don’t have any idea about that.",
"title": "Will drinking too much of beer increase the size of belly?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<health>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/418",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/269/Sathiya Kumar"
} | 29_29 | [
[
"S0: Most beer has a lot of calories. Just like any other calorie intake, if you consume more than you burn, you will gain weight. A beer belly is caused by excess calorie intake and reduced calorie expenditure because of a sedentary lifestyle. Further, when you're drinking beer at a bar or party, the food on hand is often fattening fare like pizza, wings, and other fried foods a lot of people say that beer increases appetite more that other alcoholic drinks, and in fact beer pairs very well with such calorie rich food as pig knuckle, or similar... as well as pizza, chips etc. In other words, it is not just the beer but also the food that tends to be consumed with it.",
"Beer contains a lot of calories and can take you over your healthy threshold, especially if you consume several at a time. Beer also tends to increase your appetite, and the food eaten is often unhealthy and high in calories. Some of the effect can be reduced with regular exercise, or exacerbated by eating and drinking late without allowing the body to process the food properly."
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"Beer contains a lot of calories and can take you over your healthy threshold, especially if you consume several at a time.",
"Beer also tends to increase your appetite, and the food eaten is often unhealthy and high in calories.",
"Some of the effect can be reduced with regular exercise, or exacerbated by eating and drinking late without allowing the body to process the food properly."
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"sents": [
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"text": "As a complete novice to food pairings with beer, I've been looking at this nifty pairing chart on http://www.craftbeer.com",
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"text": "[PDF]",
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"text": "whenever pairing questions have come up on Beer.",
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"text": "SE.",
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"text": "According to it, the suggested pairing for an IPA is Strong, spicy food (classic with curry!); bold, sweet desserts like carrot cake and for a Double/Imperial IPA is Smoked beef brisket, grilled lamb; Southern chicken-fried steak.",
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"text": "I found a great little summary by Michael Agnew (2012) that explains some of the rationale behind these pairings (emphasis mine hereon):",
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"text": "When pairing IPA with food you have three basic flavor hooks at your disposal; bitterness, hop flavor (spicy, grassy, herbal, earthy, and citrus), and caramel.",
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"text": "Hop flavors have a great affinity for spices and light fruits.",
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"text": "Bitterness has a cooling affect.",
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"text": "Paired with spicy dishes , IPA will fan the flames at first, but douse them in the end.",
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"text": "Bitterness also amplifies salty and umami flavors .",
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"text": "The caramel flavors in the beer will latch onto the sweeter side of a dish, tying into things like caramelized onion or the crispy skins of roast poultry.",
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"text": "And the hop acids and carbonation make IPAs great palate cleansers to take on even the fattiest deep-fried delights.",
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"text": "Samuel Adams has a \"Pair with Sam\" tool, and looking at its suggested pairings for their Whitewater IPA (hoppier than their Latitude 48 IPA), pork appears to be the meat of choice: pulled pork, barbeque ribs, chorizo, roasted pork tenderloin, and sweet sausage ; and the rest of its suggestions align with the salty-and-spicy pattern we've seen.",
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"text": "We seem to have found strong consensus already, but just one more to make sure.",
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"text": "In Blue Point Brewing Company's words , its IPA pairings are meant to complement intensely flavorful, highly spiced dishes, such as curry, and bold, sweet desserts like flourless chocolate cake and crème brulée or rich, aromatic, spicy and smoked foods such as chili, BBQ ribs, grilled chicken, and beef.",
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"text": "Actually, I think they stole those words from Wegmans' Guide to Beer and Food Pairing .",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/73/Andrew Cheong",
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"text": "CHEESE!",
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"text": "Extremely sharp cheddar is best.",
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"text": "A sharp Vermont or New York white cheddar will do as well.",
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"text": "My personal favorite is Tillamook Special Reserve Extra Sharp.",
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"text": "Cured meats - the saltiness of the meat and bitterness in the IPA play well together.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Spicy foods.",
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"text": "My personal favorite is stir fry.",
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"text": "Something that isn't heavy on carbs is ideal, so with stir fry I go light on the noodles (or rice) and heavy on peppers, onions, and meat (usually chicken or beef).",
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"text": "Again, don't use the milder sauces like teriyaki, use something with some kick.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Be mindful of the variety of IPA on the US market -- the average New England IPA is a different beast than the average west coast IPA.",
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"text": "I'll call out a few excerpts from the serious eats article Andrew Cheong quotes above: IPAs that lean extra-heavily on bitterness can be a bit tricky to match with food, which can make the beer seem astringent. ... ...IPAs that emphasize hop flavor and aroma over bitterness...",
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"text": "I especially like these beers when served with Indian food.",
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"text": "Hop flavor melds wonderfully with common Indian spices like tamarind, coriander, and cardamom. ...",
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"text": "Mexican food mixes light and dark flavors like cilantro and refried beans, lime and roasted chilies.",
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"text": "Those combinations make great partners for IPA with its own caramel/citrus combo.",
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"text": "Stick with lighter-bodied beers here, since bigger brews can easily overwhelm.",
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"text": "My personal experience -- I predominantly drink IPA these days -- is that I haven't had a memorably bad pairing, save for once where an overly sweet cupcake clashed with the bitterness of the IPA.",
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"text": "But that was likely an exceptionally high-IBU beer.",
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"text": "(I suddenly feel the need to gather more data).",
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] | {
"question": "Consider your average american IPA. What food would go well with it?",
"title": "What food pairs well with an IPA?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pairing><ipa>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/440",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/80/Fishtoaster"
} | 29_30 | [
[
"The suggested pairing for an IPA is: Strong, spicy food (classic with curry!); bold, sweet desserts like carrot cake and for a Double/Imperial IPA is: Smoked beef brisket, grilled lamb; Southern chicken-fried steak. Other people suggest: cheese, cured meats, spicy foods, stir fry, Indian food and Mexican food.",
"IPAs mix well with strong flavours, including cured, barbecued and roast meats, mature cheese and spicy foods. The three main flavours are bitterness, hops and caramel. Bitterness cools a dish and amplifies salty and umami flavours, hops pair well with spices and fruit flavours, and caramel matches with sweeter ingredients and dishes."
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"IPAs mix well with strong flavours, including cured, barbecued and roast meats, mature cheese and spicy foods.",
"The three main flavours are bitterness, hops and caramel. Bitterness cools a dish and amplifies salty and umami flavours, hops pair well with spices and fruit flavours, and caramel matches with sweeter ingredients and dishes."
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"text": "Most importantly, a good head helps release the aromas of the beer, especially the hops.",
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"text": "Aroma is everything for enjoyment of a good brew.",
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"text": "When enjoying a super-hoppy IPA, you should always use a glass that provides a large surface area for aromatics to rise from.",
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"text": "It can also provide the a pleasant mouth feel.",
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"text": "Stouts definitely benefit from a thick, silky head.",
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"text": "And lastly, it's eye candy.",
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"text": "As for the right amount of head, it varies.",
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"text": "Generally in an average pint glass you want 1-2 finger-widths of head.",
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"text": "Some hefeweizens and wit beers are best with a bit more.",
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"text": "Apart from the simple explanation of people liking the foam, the lack of head could indicate problems with the beer.",
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"text": "For example: It could mean that the glass is dirty, or there is left over soap residue on the glass.",
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"text": "This can affect the taste of the beer.",
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"text": "It could indicate that the beer has lost its carbonation (the head being formed by the gas quickly coming out of solution in the beer).",
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"text": "For many forms of storage a lack of internal pressure will indicate that they are no longer sealed properly, which makes it easier for infections to enter the beer or for it to oxidise.",
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"text": "As for the ideal amount of head, to some extent it will depend on the style of beer.",
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"text": "One of the most important tasks of the foam is to protect the beer against oxidation.",
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"text": "This is why some beer glasses have a rough patch at the bottom so the bubbles will have place to \"sprout\" from.",
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"text": "In a Duvel glass for instance it is a laser engraved Gothic \"D\".",
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"text": "When the beer is in the glass (Duvel is highly carbonated)",
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"text": "you can see the bubbles rising from the rough spot and creating a protective blanket on the beer, thus preserving the taste long after you poured it.",
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"text": "Here in the Netherlands, we mostly drink poured beer with like 1/4 of the glass filled with foam and we think the beer is not as good anymore when there is no foam in it as the carbonation is gone.",
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"text": "But I don't know how it is in other countries, so I believe it is beer and country-specific how much foam there is in a glass.",
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"text": "I must say that before starting to brew myself I disliked the head, but when you start to deal with low carbonated beer, it becomes interesting.",
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"text": "Just bought this weird \"head maker\" an ultra-beer thing it is really weird, looks like a sex toy, but creates head with ultrasound.",
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"text": "Just stick it in the beer and press the bottom.",
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"text": "With some beers it definitely adds flavor, especially hoppy beers.",
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"question": "I've seen people complain when served a beer without foam. Equally, getting a glass full of foam is no use. When serving a beer, how much is the right amount of foam and why is this important?",
"title": "Why is it important to have foam on a beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<serving><foam>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/485",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/112/mdma"
} | 29_31 | [
[
"S0: Most importantly, a good head helps release the aromas of the beer, especially the hops. With some beers it definitely adds flavor, especially hoppy beers. Apart from the simple explanation of people liking the foam, the lack of head could indicate problems with the beer. One of the most important tasks of the foam is to protect the beer against oxidation. It can also provide the a pleasant mouth feel. Stouts definitely benefit from a thick, silky head. The amount of foam, however, appears to be culture-specific with some countries, like the Netherlands, expecting more than others.",
"The head helps to release the aromas and add flavour to the beer, especially with hoppy beers. Sometimes the lack of a good head can indicate problems with the beer, or increase the chance of oxidisation. The ideal amount of head will depend to some extent on the type of beer and the culture."
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"The head helps to release the aromas and add flavour to the beer, especially with hoppy beers.",
"Sometimes the lack of a good head can indicate problems with the beer, or increase the chance of oxidisation.",
"The ideal amount of head will depend to some extent on the type of beer and the culture."
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"text": "First, I love this question because it is actually interesting.",
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"text": "I researched this when I noticed that bottled coke tasted so much better than canned coke.",
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"text": "Cans keep out all light so the contents actually never become tainted.",
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"text": "The reason that most like bottled over canned is because they like the taste with those impurities.",
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"text": "Some complain that they can taste aluminum with cans, but this is more than likely in their head since cans are lined with a thin layer of plastic.",
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"text": "I like certain beers better in cans and certain ones better in bottles.",
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"text": "I would try both :)",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "As a member of a Studentenverbindung, having one principle of scientia, we of course tested this a long time ago with around a dozen or maybe a bit more testers.",
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"text": "We poured beer from the same manufacturer (fresh batch) into glasses and had people taste them, and for every glass (everyone had multiple ones)",
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"text": "they had to say if they think it was from a bottle, a can, or a keg, and which tasted better.",
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"text": "After around 50 or 60 glasses, there was no statistical evidence whatsoever that any of the three could be identified, or tasted better.",
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"text": "From my personal experience though, I always think that a keg is better than a bottle is better than a can.",
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"text": "But why is that so?",
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"text": "I only have the theory that due to the feeling of the container you drink from, your taste is altered (just like food with the same flavour/taste somehow tastes different, with a different texture).",
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"text": "Additionally I think the amount of beer that flows into your mouth is different, as well as maybe the turbulence, causing a different amount of carbon dioxide (or nitrogen, depending on your beer culture) to leave the beer before you can actually taste and swallow (which again changes the texture).",
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"text": "I heard a quote from the revered Charlie Bamforth , who basically said that packaging beers in cans was a far better way to preserve the beer from brewery to customer than packaging in bottles, but bottles are still more aesthetically pleasing to the customer, so they are usually preferred.",
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"text": "And that's from a man that has been head of Quality Assurance for a number of years.",
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"text": "It's purely in the mind - there isn't any real change to the beer.",
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"text": "If anything, the difference with bottled beer is that the canned version is better preserved.",
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"text": "I actually do not think that the can itself changes the taste of the beer as much as the beer placed in the can may be a little different.",
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"text": "I think that the real difference is going to be between keg beer and can/bottle beer.",
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"text": "Canned",
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"text": "/bottled beer has a longer shelf life than keg beer.",
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"text": "Canned/bottled beer has a shelf life of roughly 45-60 days, whereas a keg is only 25-40 days 1 .",
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"text": "This means that worst case scenario for comparison you could be tasting a 2 month old canned beer versus a 3 week old draft.",
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"text": "It can cause a difference in taste, there is a \"freshness date\" after all.",
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"text": "(See this excellent answer from @mdma for more information on what happens as beer ages )",
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"text": "But where does this date come from?",
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"text": "Almost all imported retail beer is pasteurized.",
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"text": "The reason for pasteurizing the beer is from a business standpoint.",
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"text": "It basically allows the beer to last longer and be shipped at room temperature (this applies to kegs, cans, and bottles).",
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"text": "An alternative to the pasteurization process is bottle conditioning.",
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"text": "Most domestic beers follow this path.",
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"text": "Essentially this process involves beers being sterile filtered and chilled to the point that any surviving bacteria, which could ferment the beer, become dormant 2 .",
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"text": "So basically the probability that the beer begins to ferment is higher over time.",
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"text": "A canned beer and a keg beer can taste the same if they both left the brewery at the same time, and both experienced the same conditions during the time it took them to reach you.",
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"text": "It is just that kegs have a better chance of taking less time and of being better preserved.",
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"text": "From a practical standpoint though, bottles can cause broken glass, kegs weigh close to 50 lbs.",
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"text": "full, and cans allow for shotgunning.",
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"text": "Make sure your container of choice fits your environment :) 1.",
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"text": "How long will a keg of draft beer remain fresh?",
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"text": "2.",
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"text": "What is pasteurized and non-pasteurized keg beer?",
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"text": "I don't know how/if the actual storage in cans vs bottles affects the taste, however you should expect that they are not filled with the same beer.",
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"text": "Many companies will have different production logistics, and the can will often come from a different site than a bottle of the same brand, and will have slightly different water and production process, so the beers will taste slightly different before they even touch the can; and they may even have intentionally different production and additives.",
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"text": "If you are drinking beer directly from the can or bottle, then one measurable difference is the speed at which it warms up while you are drinking it.",
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"text": "As glass is an insulator and aluminium is a conductor, you'd expect the can to be more efficient at transferring heat from your hand and the environment into the beer.",
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"text": "So a glass bottle should keep the within the optimum temperature range for longer than the can.",
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"text": "This result is backed up by some research done by students at Worcester Polytechnic Institute , which compared the rate at which refrigerated liquid warms up to room temperature in glass and aluminium bottles.",
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"text": "The heating rate differences should be even more noticeable if the bottles were in contact with a body temperature heat source.",
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"text": "This effect can be minimised by insulating the can using a stubby holder/beer cozy.",
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"text": "In another experiment comparing cans held in a person's hand , over a 30 minute period an uninsulated can rose in temperature by about 14°C while the insulated can rose only 3°C.",
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] | {
"question": "My favorite beers come in bottles and in cans. I always buy it in bottles because I've heard that cans negatively impact the flavor of the beer. Is this true? If so, how does it work?",
"title": "Do cans change the taste of beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<storage><cans>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/518",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/36/crownjewel82"
} | 29_32 | [
[
"Cans keep out all light so the contents actually never become tainted. Some complain that they can taste aluminum with cans, but this is more than likely in their head since cans are lined with a thin layer of plastic. Many consider that a keg is better than a bottle is better than a can. If anything, the difference with bottled beer is that the canned version is better preserved. The real difference is between keg beer and canned/bottled beer. Moreover, the beer that goes into cans and bottles is probably different from that sold from the keg.",
"The flavour of the beer is unlikely to be changed by the container, and cans are better at keeping out light and preserving the beer inside. However, bottles are often preferred for aesthetic reasons. Drinking from different containers may change the taste slightly due to the rate of delivery, turbulence and other factors, and beer in cans will warm up faster than beer in bottles. It is also likely that bottled and canned beer is distinct when manufactured, which may cause the main difference in taste."
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"The flavour of the beer is unlikely to be changed by the container, and cans are better at keeping out light and preserving the beer inside. However, bottles are often preferred for aesthetic reasons.",
"Drinking from different containers may change the taste slightly due to the rate of delivery, turbulence and other factors, and beer in cans will warm up faster than beer in bottles.",
"It is likely that bottled and canned beer is distinct when manufactured though, which may cause the main difference in taste."
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"sents": [
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"text": "TL DR; No. Beer flavor changes over time (hops fade away, oxidation takes hold, etc.), and this process happens more quickly at warmer temperatures than colder ones.",
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"text": "But there are no additional chemical reactions caused by temperature changes, so warming to room temperature and re-chilling multiple times is not going to have any added effects on the beer.",
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"text": "Assuming you are drinking it within a few weeks, you won't notice the difference with bottled or canned beer.",
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"text": "I think this myth took hold from left-over kegs after parties: A half-empty keg that was dispensed by pumping air into it will start to oxidize much more quickly since oxygen is being added to it.",
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"text": "When it warms the oxidation speeds up and it tastes stale within a day or two.",
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"text": "Keeping it cold slows that down a bit, but even cold it won't last very long.",
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"text": "A keg being dispensed using CO2 is a different story: that will last as long as bottled beer and can be warmed and rechilled without ill effects.",
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"text": "In all of this, I am referring to room temperature.",
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"text": "Beer left in a car in the sun for hours will start to stale much more quickly, even if bottles are protected from the sunlight.",
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"text": "You won't get the skunky flavor caused by the light, but it will taste stale.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Repeatedly cooling and warming (to ambient temperatures)",
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"text": "a beer can induce a permanent haze, where proteins and tannins bond to create semi-soluble molecules.",
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"text": "While this can have an aesthetic impact, it does not impact flavour, aroma or mouthfeel.",
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"text": "This is mostly an issue in beers where the knocking-out, or rapid cooling of the beer may not have been effective at precipitating what is known as cold-break proteins.",
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"text": "Which generally leads to chill haze (haze when the beer is cool, but not when it is warm).",
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"text": "This generally isn't an issue with most commercial beers (especially if filtered), and is more often found in home-brewed beers.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4501/John",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I did some experimentation at home to answer this question.",
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"text": "My results indicated that room temperature and temperature fluctuation had no impact on flavour.",
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"text": "Very high temperature (140° for 24 hours) seems to create a very slight hard to define harshness.",
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"text": "Check out my results here:",
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{
"text": "Beer Experiments: Sunlight Exposure and Temperature Regulation Beer Experiments: Temperature Regulation Part 2",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Cooling and warming a beer does have an effect , but it is minor in the beginning.",
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"text": "If you heat, cool, repeatedly many times, there will be evidence of damage and it will become staggeringly obvious!At Budweizer",
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"text": "they gave us a beer that was cycled over a 100 times!",
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"text": "It was shocking how many off-flavours such a delicately flavoured beer can get!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I am now drinking a beer from a keg from last weekend.",
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"text": "I left the beer keg inside my storage with door open and it's been warm this week (100°F).",
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"text": "Five days later the beer tastes almost same exept that the beer foam has gone which in my opinion the beer foam gives it a better taste.",
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] | {
"question": "I typically prefer my beer only a bit cold, so when I buy a 12-pack from a store's cooler I typically just leave it out. The excess I'll refrigerate at the end of the night, and sometimes repeat the process with the same beer on a different night. Does this affect the quality of the beer in some chemical way? I almost exclusively drink IPA's and personally never notice a difference, but many of my friends have commented on the habit of mine to let beer warm.",
"title": "Does beer suffer from being warmed and then rechilled?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<temperature><ipa>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/605",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/479/Decency"
} | 29_33 | [
[
"It is said that beer flavor changes over time (hops fade away, oxidation takes hold, etc.), and this process happens more quickly at warmer temperatures than colder ones. But there are no additional chemical reactions caused by temperature changes, so warming to room temperature and re-chilling multiple times is not going to have any added effects on the beer. Other people consider that cooling and warming a beer does have an effect , but it is minor in the beginning. Obviously, once a beer keg has been opened and air pumped in it will start to deteriorate anyway.",
"If the beer is drunk within a few weeks, warming to room temperature and cooling is unlikely to have a noticeable effect. Howerver, higher temperatures are more likely to change the taste and cause the beer to degrade quicker. A half-empty keg will have a different flavour if dispensed by pumping air into it, and leaving it in the fridge will slow the effect."
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"If the beer is drunk within a few weeks, warming to room temperature and cooling is unlikely to have a noticeable effect.",
"Higher temperatures are more likely to change the taste and cause the beer to degrade quicker.",
"A half-empty keg will have a different flavour if dispensed by pumping air into it, and leaving it in the fridge will slow the effect."
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"sents": [
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"text": "Oyster stout traditionally uses oysters as part of the brewing process, and that is the flavour that differentiates them from other stouts.",
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"text": "While it is traditional to use oysters, some modern breweries use artifical flavours in their oyster stouts, or simply say that they are intended to be eaten with seafood.",
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"text": "You mention Marston's Oyster Stout, which is one example of an oyster stout that doesn't use actual oysters in the brew.",
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"text": "From their website : Marston’s Oyster Stout is a dark, creamy, smooth, clean tasting English stout.",
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"text": "It doesn’t contain oysters, just called Oyster Stout as this style of ale is a great complement to shell fish dishes.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Just had a bottle of Marston's Oyster Stout two days ago (10/25/14), the label states it is brewed with oyster shells.",
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"text": "Oyster stouts are indeed brewed with oysters.",
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"text": "The occasional offering that we sell (Niagara College Teaching Brewery), uses oysters at the end of the mash regime (hot soaking of the grains).",
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"text": "The idea here is that you are extracting calcium carbonate from the shells, which helps reduce the tannic astringency that can result from the roasted grains used in stouts.",
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"text": "This is the same reason/benefit that stouts are traditionally brewed in areas with relatively hard water.",
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"text": "It also happens to be the perfect temperature for cooking oysters.",
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"text": "Oysters cooked or uncooked could be added at other parts of the process, but may not have the same impact on reducing astringency.",
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"text": "There is a subtle undertone of the oyster that makes it into the finished product, but your palate may vary and may or may not detect it (depending on process and quantity used).",
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"text": "If it is an Oyster stout",
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"text": "then it probably should have contact with ACTUAL oysters.",
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"text": "Using the shells is a cop out that is like stone soup .",
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"text": "Checkout new brewery Hammertown in London who do it properly:\"In 1938",
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"text": "the original Hammerton Brewery was famous for being the first in the world to use Oysters as part of the brewing process.",
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"text": "In this new recipe we’ve used a variety of flavoursome malts, including a good dose of oats.",
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"text": "Fresh wild Maldon oysters are then added to the boil to add a subtle extra complexity to the taste of this stout.\"",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Oysters used to be served as an accompaniment to beer in pubs in Victorian England, so the first beers called Oyster Stouts were probably beers intended to compliment oysters rather than containing them.",
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"text": "Later someone discovered that you could use crushed Oyster shells as a fining agent in beer and later still someone actually added the oyster meat, probably as a marketing gimmick since oysters aren't going to add much to the flavour.",
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"text": "So it's fine for oyster stout to not contain oysters.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "This, \"The idea here is that you are extracting calcium carbonate from the shells, which helps reduce the tannic astringency that can result from the roasted grains used in stouts.\"",
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"text": "from John, was most helpful and logical.",
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"text": "Understanding how chemistry functions in brewing becomes logical once you ponder the explanation.",
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"text": "Thanks, John.",
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] | {
"question": "One of my favorite stouts is Oesterstout by the Schelde Brewery . The website states: During the brewing process, the wort of the beer is pumped across the oyster shells. Is this what gives it it's distinct taste? In Denmark, another more easily available Oyster stout is Marston's Oyster Stout . Do all Oyster Stouts follow this particular process, or is it more of a sales pitch?",
"title": "Is Oyster Stout really made using oysters?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><stout>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/637",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/541/Steven Jeuris"
} | 29_34 | [
[
"S0: Oyster stout traditionally uses oysters as part of the brewing process, and that is the flavour that differentiates them from other stouts. While it is traditional to use oysters, some modern breweries use artifical flavours oroyster shells in their oyster stouts, or simply say that they are intended to be eaten with seafood. However, oysters used to be served as an accompaniment to beer in pubs in Victorian England, so the first beers called Oyster Stouts were probably beers intended to compliment oysters rather than containing them.",
"There is some disagreement on whether traditional oyster stouts came from oysters as an ingredient or accompaniment. Modern oyster stouts are generally brewed with oysters or oyster shells, although some use artificial flavourings or are merely intended to be eaten with seafood. When shells are used, the calcium carbonate reduces the tannic astringency of some stouts."
]
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[
"Oyster stouts are generally brewed with oysters or oyster shells, although some use artificial flavourings or are merely intended to be eaten with seafood. When shells are used, the calcium carbonate reduces the tannic astringency of some stouts.",
"There is some disagreement on whether traditional oyster stouts came from oysters as an ingredient or accompaniment."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are strains of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (brewer's yeast) such as WLP099 - Super High Gravity Ale Yeast that reportedly can tolerate up to 25% alcohol by volume.",
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"text": "The world's strongest beer is Snake Venom coming in at a colossal 67.5% abv.",
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"text": "Sources cite it as freeze-distilled, where the beer is frozen and the ice (pure water) is drawn off, leaving a more concentrated beer behind.",
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"text": "Although, comments in the same link cast doubt upon if the beer is truly the abv claimed.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/112/mdma",
"score": 23
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"sents": [
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"text": "There has been a bit of a battle recently, with Brewdog and Schorschbräu constantly topping each other's efforts: BrewDog Blog.",
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"text": "Currently it's a Schorschbräu Schorschbock 57% finis coronat opus, which comes in at 57.7% , beating Brewdog's latest effort: Schorschbräu Schorschbock 57% finis coronat opus.",
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"text": "I'd say the strongest commercially viable option (these 50% beers only ever have a few bottles in the batch and cost a silly amount) in the UK anyway, is Watt Dickie , also by Brewdog, which comes in at 35.0% : BrewDog UK.",
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"text": "EDIT:",
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"text": "Oops, I didn't know about Snake Venom, 67.5% : Brewmeister Beer.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/608/slugmandrew",
"score": 14
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Brewdog's The End of History, at 55% is currently the world's strongest beer.",
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"text": "Take a look at the Brewdog Blog .",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/674/user3299408",
"score": 6
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"sents": [
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"text": "I suppose it depends on how one defines beer.",
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"text": "Following the German Reinheitsgebot, beer may contain only 4 ingredients: Water Yeast",
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"text": "Hops Barly malt Beverages which do not adhere to these restrictions may not be labeled as beer in Germany, and several other countries.",
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"text": "To my knowlege, the strongest beer of kind is Schorschbock 57 , an ice-distilled doppelbock with 57,5% alcohol content.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/685/primo",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
{
"text": "This might be a duplicate question , but since as far as I know beer uses fermentation and no distillation, I expect the maximum alcohol level to be around the same maximum as for wine, which I believe is somewhere around the 13% to 15% level (by volume) as this is the level around which micro organisms seem to die .",
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"text": "I know some beers in the 10% to 12% range, like the Dutch het Kanon (\"the canon\") by Grolsch at 11.6% and Grand Prestige by Hertog Jan at 10%, both of which I like.",
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"text": "They have a bit of a sweet caramel-like flavour, but I'm not sure if that related to the amount of alcohol in any way.",
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"text": "It depends on your definition, commercially available is Kwak, around the same as wine, if you go to the Grand Place it comes in those horse & cart designed bulbous glasses (like a mini yard of ale).",
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"text": "Once you go above that the others are all pretty specialist.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The strongest beer I know - made without distillation - is a Belgian beer called Bush Prestige, with 13%.Source and description of taste: Dubuisson",
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] | {
"question": "I've always wondered what the strongest beer in the world is and how would taste. Are there reliable historical records of a very strong beer? What would be the highest % alcohol that's Brewable for a beer? And also of course it would be great to know where to get such a beer from.",
"title": "What is the strongest beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><taste><history><alcohol-level>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/680",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/669/Jutschge"
} | 29_35 | [
[
"The world's strongest beer is Brewmeister Beer Snake Venom coming in at a colossal 67.5% abv. ",
"The strongest beers without concentration, distillation or other techniques are about 13-15% by volume. Stronger beers such as Snake Venom or beers by BrewDog or Schorschbräu can be 55% or more, achieved by freezing and removing the ice from a beer with lower alcohol content."
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"The strongest beers without concentration, distillation or other techniques are about 13-15% by volume.",
"Stronger beers such as Snake Venom or beers by BrewDog or Schorschbräu can be 55% or more, achieved by freezing and removing the ice from a beer with lower alcohol content."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are a few things you can check with you keg.",
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"text": "You said it's a home built system, yes?",
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"text": "So is this a mini-fridge conversion, chest freezer/keezer conversion, or some other kit?",
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"text": "Anyway, what length are the beer lines?",
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"text": "Generally you need to balance CO2 pressure against beer lines to avoid consistently foamy pours.",
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"text": "If your system isn't properly balanced the beer will always be foamy, on every pour.",
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"text": "I have 5-6 foot lines in my kegerator and it works pretty well for me, when I was having foamy pour problems everyone suggested replacing them with 10 foot lines just to make damn sure the pour wasn't too violent.",
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"text": "Also making sure the lines are clean.",
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"text": "Any beer stone or other sediment in the lines is going to cause foam.",
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"text": "Serving warmer with lower CO2 would also be a better step.",
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"text": "One frustrating thing about these sorts of adjustments is that it takes time for equilibrium to be hit.",
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"text": "So if you lower the CO2 pressure, the headspace is still pressurize.",
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"text": "You'll need to vent the keg via the pressure release valve.",
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"text": "Same deal with raising the temperature.",
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"text": "Once the beer actually comes up to the new temp, there will have been CO2 driven out of solution that you need to vent from the headspace via the pressure release valve.",
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"text": "It's a pain.",
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"text": "Regulators will also often have their own pressure valve, which you should poke and vent slightly when setting the pressure...especially when coming down since excess pressure in the system is going to mess with the reading.",
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"text": "So vent, watch it rise to the actual pressure, then adjust, vent again, and watch.",
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"text": "It takes some time but generally once you set it",
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"text": "there's very little change required.",
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"text": "It's hard to tell without seeing the speed of your pour.",
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"text": "Definitely check the keg temperature itself.",
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"text": "As a homebrewer I reuse kegs, so I have stickers on all my kegs that have a little temperature line.",
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"text": "These liquid crystal thermometers, like this one , are pretty cheap.",
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"text": "You can also check the ambient temperature using a regular thermometer and a small glass of water.",
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"text": "You should check temperature at multiple spots inside the kegerator, so you could fill some tumblers or shot glasses with water and place them at the bottom of the kegerator, then maybe on top of the keg, and then maybe a back shelf if you have anything like that.",
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"text": "This lets you know if you have any hot spots which you can reduce by reorganizing tubes or tossing a small computer case fan in there.",
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"text": "Also, if you haven't disabled the dome light in the fridge, do so or find some way to make sure the switch stays down beyond a doubt.",
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"text": "When I first built my kegerator I was getting incredibly foamy pours and",
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"text": "a huge contributor wound up being the dome light kept coming on and heating up the tops of the kegs and the beer in my lines.",
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"text": "Another final check is the temperature inside of the tower.",
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"text": "If you have no way for the cold air to get from the body of the fridge into the tower the lines in the tower will get warm and cause foamy beer, though if the CO2 pressure is set correctly, this would likely only result in the first 1-2 pours being foamy, then it calms down until the lines warm back up.",
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"text": "A lot of people will put fans or run copper tubes up the towers.",
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"text": "I filled mine with insulation.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "You were right to lower the temperature.",
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"text": "Beer (or any liquid for that matter) is better at retaining gasses at lower temperatures.",
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"text": "Therefore: cold beer = less gas released = less foam produced.",
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"text": "Occam's Razor says your keg is probably warm.",
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"text": "I'd check if your temperature is correct.",
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"text": "Make sure the temperature is being checked from the bottom of the keg, as this is where your beer is coming from.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
},
{
"text": "I'm assuming you're pouring properly,",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(this includes using a clean, unfrozen glass with a smooth interior).",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Aside from that, I'd make sure all the parts of your system are clean and in good working order.",
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1
],
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-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/798/CKrug",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another something to look at: your beerline.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Check for flaws, sharp bends, particles.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Check your taps as well, as an imperfection there might cause the problem.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/984/Atron Seige",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I found an awesome resource: Draft Beer Quality .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They have a very nifty pdf",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Manual that you can download for free!",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/984/Atron Seige",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Lots of good, in-depth answers here.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "It looks like nobody (edit: looks like Soloem did, actually) mentioned the obvious: close your supply line and bleed excess CO2 from the keg.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes a keg will come to you highly carbonated and you just have to bleed it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sometimes you have to bleed it a few times (before you begin dispensing for the day).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As long as you don't have some physical problem with your setup (long lines, warm temps, leaks or something crazy)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you're just facing an over-pressurized keg.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4691/Preston",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Have a kegerator home built system for 1/2 barrel beer in the garage. Recently had a keg of beer that was foamy no matter what we tried to do. Served it low temp, 37 degrews, and almost no CO2 pressure. Tried serving warmer, with more pressure, still tons of foam.",
"title": "How do you tame a 'foamy' keg?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<foam><keg>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/744",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/801/John Batdorf"
} | 29_36 | [
[
"Generally you need to balance CO2 pressure against beer lines to avoid consistently foamy pours. The keg may need venting to bleed off the excess CO2. It is also important to check the lines and taps are clean, Finally, the temperature should be checked, the keg may be too warm and cold beer releases less gas.",
"The keg could have arrived in an overpressurised state, and can be bled to bring the pressure down. Check your beerline and taps for imperfections and sediment. Longer lines may also help to reduce foam. Check the temperature of the keg at a few points (especially below, where the beer will be drawn) as well as the ambient temperature around it. Make sure that the dome light is not turning on and warming the keg."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
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[]
]
} | [
5
] | [
[
"The keg could have arrived in an overpressurised state, and can be bled to bring the pressure down.",
"Check your beerline and taps for imperfections and sediment. Longer lines may also help to reduce foam.",
"Check the temperature of the keg at a few points (especially below, where the beer will be drawn) as well as the ambient temperature around it. Make sure that the dome light is not turning on and warming the keg."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "To add a bit of detail to the existing answers, the primary method for adding a smoked flavor to beer is by using malts that have been dried over a smoky fire, rather than in a kiln which allows the malt to absorb compounds from the smoke that they then release into the beer during brewing.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Some of the oldest smoked beers still produced are German (Rauchbiers) and the malt is dried over beechwood .",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "Other woods can be used, and you can find malt smoked over oak, cherrywood, and any number of other species.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "As mentioned in another answer, peat can be used as well and in fact is for Stone's Smoked Porter .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Another method for adding a smoky flavor is to use liquid smoke extract .",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is made my cooling and condensing smoke with water, and can be used instead of smoked malt.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'm not aware of commercial brewers who use this method, but it's a way for home brewers who use malt extract instead of dried malt to add smokiness to their beers.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/37/Xander",
"score": 11
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Peated malt can provide a beer with subtle smokiness.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Peated malt is malt that has been smoked over peat (decaying vegetation).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is common in Scotch & Whisky Ales.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cheers",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/869/NitroStoutPlz",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It is certainly possible to make a smoked beer by using a smoked malt at the brewing stage.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Excellent information here:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Brewing Smoked Beers: Tips from the Pros.",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/866/nickjamesuk",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Smoked malts.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Start with a normal malt put malt in a large metal screen COLD smoke for a few hours (if you add heat it will also add color to the malt)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Let sit for a day or so.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "brew beer with it enjoy something not many get to taste, yet alone the possibilities of different woods to use for the smoking make it an unused \"5th\" beer ingredient.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "How to Smoke Malts Woods to use for smoking cherry apple maple mesquite pecan other fruitwoods alder (alaskan) beechwood",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "(Rauchbeir) OAK is usually used raw, added as \"barrelling\" addition not normally used to smoke malts NEVER USE EVERGREEN WOOD FOR SMOKING MALT.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "- PINEY (HOP TERRITORY)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Smoke-Flavored/Wood-Aged Beer Peat malt is bad stuff-",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "only used for scotch and whiskey mashes.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "DO NOT USE IT IN BEER unless you want to throw it out.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/467/Jeff Wurz",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One other potential source of smoke flavors is actually the yeast.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some yeast produce phenolic compounds during fermentation that produce smoke flavors and aromas.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Scottish yeast strains in particular are known for this.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/802/Chris Marasti-Georg",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One source of smokiness unmentioned as of yet is vinvyl-guaiacol production from bacteria metabolism.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The answers already given are more relevant, however there is one important source that has been unmentioned.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Although more common in distilling, lactobacillus and other strains of bacteria can attribute flavor to fermentation products.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Different strains induce a different, possibly harmful, effect.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Focusing on lactobacillus, which is your common bacteria used in cheese making, lactobacillus can introduce more lactic acid into the beer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This anaerobic bacteria is more active either before fermentation has started (either by contamination or inoculation) and after fermentation has ended.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "More so after fermentation this bacteria has metabolize the autolysis products of yeast.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The acids from this bacteria later form into vinvyl-guaiacol, a flavor compound that lends a spicy and smokey note.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/931/Gastrograph",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I recently started getting interested in smoked beers. Quite a few years back, Shiner had a seasonal called Smokehouse. I didn't care for it. However, I've recently been intrigued by varieties of smoked saisons, ipas and marzenbiers. What makes a beer smoky? Is the flavor created by casking, adding flavor or part of the brewing process?",
"title": "What gives a \"smoky\" beer a smoked flavor?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><flavor><saison>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/777",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/842/The Answer"
} | 29_37 | [
[
"Beer may get a smoky flavor from various sources, such as smoked malts, liquid smoke extract, the yeast itself and bacteria.",
"Malt smoked with different woods or peat can be used to add a smoky flavour during brewing. Liquid smoke can also be used as an alternative, especially for home brewers. Particular types of yeast can also pruduce smoke-like flavours and aromas, as can lactobacillus and other strains of bacteria."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
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5
] | [
[
"Malt smoked with different woods or peat can be used to add a smoky flavour during brewing. Liquid smoke can also be used as an alternative, especially for home brewers.",
"Particular types of yeast can also pruduce smoke-like flavours and aromas, as can lactobacillus and other strains of bacteria."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Mead is not considered a style of beer, since the sugars in mead come from honey, not from the starch of a grain.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Hops are sometimes added to mead for flavor and as a preservative.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "The process for making mead is more similar to wine making than brewing beer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "There's no brewing (boiling) stage necessary in making mead.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "All of the fermentable sugar comes from the honey in mead, so you just mix honey with water (and whatever spices you want) and go directly to the fermenting stage.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
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},
{
"text": "Mead also has a higher alcohol content than most beers (8 - 20%, which is more similar to wine, or even brandy). ...",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "would it be reasonable to think a brewery I like may make, or consider making mead as well?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Not really.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "At least not in the U.S.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Beer is much more popular than mead, and the process for making mead is different, so relatively few brewers are going to make it.",
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1
],
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-1
],
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},
{
"text": "I tried mead once at a specialty beer & wine store, which is your best bet for finding it in the U.S.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
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},
{
"text": "You may have to ask around to see if a store can order some for you.",
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],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/154/Bill the Lizard",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In addition to what was already said, there's a lot of legal gray area, as most if not all states have different laws governing breweries and wineries.",
"label": [
1
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},
{
"text": "Mead is really something different than both, but I believe most meaderies choose to identify as wineries, and many if not all states prohibit wineries from having malt on premises, and breweries MUST use malt in fermentation.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You'd either need to find someone that has a license for both beer and wine, which probably isn't that common in commercial operations",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(brewpubs may be your best bet there), or look for someone who makes a braggot, which is generally a beer/mead blend.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Dogfish Head makes Bitches' Brew, and Sprecher Brewery just released a braggot this year.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "If you're looking to buy, wine shops are generally a better bet - again, lots of people don't know exactly what to do with mead, but I've had good luck finding it, usually around the dessert wines, sherry, port type of wines.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/1103/gutsmania",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Mead is an entirely different product which tastes more like a wine than a beer but is quite distinct from either in terms of taste, designation and production.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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},
{
"text": "I have never come across a mead flavoured with hops but some are flavoured with other botanicals such as spices or orange peel",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
},
{
"text": "so I cannot guarantee that none are.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Most beer breweries undertake a more complex brewing process involving adding ingredients to the mash at different stages and as such, knowing a few hundred UK brewers as I do, they are all about getting the complex mixture correct and blending ingredients correctly they are disinterested in the simple mead making process.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That said the mead making process; adding honey to water, adding yeast and letting it ferment may be boring to them",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "it doesn't mean that none do, but I have never known any to be interested.",
"label": [
0
],
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},
{
"text": "On the other hand some wineries in the UK have their own beehives to help pollinate their fruit and so they produce mead as a side product.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This may also be true in the US.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A quick search bears out my thoughts on wineries in the US: Where to buy Mead .",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/909/MD-Tech",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Simplified definition: If you're fermenting grains, it's beer.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're fermenting fruits, it's wine.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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"text": "If you're fermenting honey, it's mead.",
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"text": "It's not really that simple, because there are beers that use fruit (e.g., cherry lambic, raspberry wheat),",
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"text": "beers that use honey (it's a fairly common adjunct), wines that use fruit (e.g., elderberry wine ), and a whole lot of meads that use fruit.",
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"text": "The crossover is substantial.",
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"text": "When you consider hard ciders, it gets even more complicated (is apple wine really a cider?).",
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"text": "The base ingredient of beer is almost always malted barley.",
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"text": "Even beers named for another grain — like wheat beer, oatmeal stout, rye beer — use malted barley as a base.",
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"text": "Hops are a critical ingredient in beer for two reasons: bittering and aroma.",
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"text": "The base ingredient of mead is always honey.",
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"text": "I've had mead with hops ( Charm City makes one), but it's uncommon, and I personally don't like the flavor.",
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"text": "It's more common to find a winery that makes mead than a brewery that makes mead.",
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"text": "There's an outstanding one in Montana called Hidden Legend .",
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"text": "They also make a mead/wine blend called a \"pyment,\" which was popular in the 15th century or so.",
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"text": "Mead is its own thing but often will be called “Honey Wine” but it is never an ale or beer.",
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"text": "The process it’s made from is pretty much a wine-making process",
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"text": "but there are a few differences leading to the fact that some places list their meads and honey wines together and others list them separately.",
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"text": "Technically mead is its own category, but it’s basically a sibling to wine not beer.",
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"text": "It’s fermented not brewed.",
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"text": "Beer is more of a cousin to it.",
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"text": "Mead in some European countries is one of the stronger alcohol beverages you could get reaching 50%.",
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"text": "(Apart from pure spirit of course) some people consider mead to be medicine rather than alcoholic beverage.",
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"text": "Some people might say mead is part of beer but they are wrong and confusing yeast and sugar getting fermented with actual mead.",
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"text": "Some European countries defines mead as \"The savory materials were given up by honey, carnation blossoms, poplar buds, oak acorns, juniper berries, and many other valuable herbs.",
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"text": "Rich taupe color is reached by the use of natural blueberry, black currant and raspberry juice.",
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"text": "This drink of great aroma and taste is of 50 % alcohol by volume\"",
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] | {
"question": "From my understanding, mead is primarily made from honey and may or may not have hops added.Is mead considered a style of beer, or more of a wine, or a completely separate kind of beverage? Are they brewed similarly? More specifically, would it be reasonable to think a brewery I like may make, or consider making mead as well?",
"title": "What are the differences between mead and beer? Where can I try one in the US?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing><breweries><united-states>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/927",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/798/CKrug"
} | 29_38 | [
[
"Everyone is clear that mead is closer to wine than beer. The process for making mead is more similar to wine making than brewing beer. There's no brewing (boiling) stage necessary in making mead. All of the fermentable sugar comes from the honey in mead, so you just mix honey with water (and whatever spices you want) and go directly to the fermenting stage. Fermenting fruits makes wine; fermenting honey makes mead. However, nobody really seems to know where you could try mead in the US.",
"Mead is much closer to wine than beer in its taste and production, and there is no brewing process involved in mead production. Some wineries have beehives and prudce mead as a side product, but mead from beer breweries is much less common. Breweries and wineries are subject to different laws, so a brewery wanting to produce mead might need to be licensed for both beer and wine. Some mead is made with hops for flavouring, but this is rare and not essential as in beer production."
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"Mead is much closer to wine than beer in its taste and production, and there is no brewing process involved in mead production. Some wineries have beehives and prudce mead as a side product, but mead from beer breweries is much less common.",
"Breweries and wineries are subject to different laws, so a brewery wanting to produce mead might need to be licensed for both beer and wine.",
"Some mead is made with hops for flavouring, but this is rare and not essential as in beer production."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "According to the Beer Advocate website , Romulan Ale from Star Trek is brewed by Cervecería Centro Americana in South Africa.",
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"text": "A search in Google Images will produce several images of the bottles.",
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"text": "I have included a link to one image.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "While I'm not a fan Butterbeer from Harry Potter is apparently a thing.",
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"text": "However I don't believe it's widely available and is pretty niche by the looks of it.",
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"text": "Olde Frothingslosh started as a joke.",
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"text": "Not quite from a book, but possibly of interest.",
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"text": "Olde Frothingslosh Pale Stale Ale",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/23/Bryan Cain",
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"text": "Discworld Ales have a range of drinks inspired by the Terry Pratchett novels!",
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"text": "I've not tasted any myself",
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"text": "but they were well received as a gift.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Duff Beer",
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"text": "\"Duff Beer is a brand of beer that originally started as a fictional beverage on the animated series The Simpsons.",
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"text": "Since then it has become a real brand of beer in a number of countries without permission or consent from its original creator, Matt Groening, and has resulted in legal battles with varying results.",
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"text": "An official version of the beer is sold in three variations near The Simpsons Ride at Universal Studios.\"",
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"text": "- Duff Beer (Wikipedia)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Dagschotel",
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"text": "In Belgium, there's a tv-show that's been running for 20 years.",
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"text": "One of the characters always orders a \"dagschotel\" (french: plat du jour, english: the dish of the day) when he orders a glass of beer.",
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"text": "A few weeks ago, some brewery makes bottles of Dagschotel.",
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"text": "In Germany there is a famous comic book beer called Bölkstoff .They also began producing it",
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"text": "but nowadays it's rare, but you can get it online.",
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"text": "There are films about Werner where he drinks this specific beer.",
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"text": "Rötger Feldmann is the author of these comic books and films.",
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"text": "You can find info here and here much more on the German wikipedia page.",
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"text": "If you have further questions about the films or the beer, feel free to ask.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There is also a BreakingBad based beer that you can find here Schraderbräu is a homebrew beer brewed by Hank Schrader.",
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"text": "He is seen bottling the beer in Breakage, the fifth episode of season 2.",
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"text": "He offers a six-pack of the beer as a prize in a fundraiser in ABQ, the thirteenth episode of season 2.",
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] | {
"question": "Duff is the only one of which I am aware. I know there are Game of Thrones inspired brews, but are there any others that originated from works of fiction?",
"title": "What other beer brands began as fictional but eventually became real?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<history>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/3421",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4245/Valerie"
} | 29_39 | [
[
"A few beers started life as fictional. These include Romulan Ale from Star Trek, Butterbeer from Harry Potter, Olde Frothingslosh, Discworld Ales inspired by Terry Pratchett novels, Dagschotel and Bölkstoff .",
"Romulan Ale from Star Trek, Butterbeer from Harry Potter, Olde Frothingslosh, several drinks inspired by Terry Pratchett novels produced by Discworld Ales, Duff Beer, Dagschotel and Bölkstoff are all inspired by fictional beers."
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"Romulan Ale from Star Trek, Butterbeer from Harry Potter, Olde Frothingslosh, several drinks inspired by Terry Pratchett novels produced by Discworld Ales, Duff Beer, Dagschotel and Bölkstoff are all inspired by fictional beers."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "If you're in the South West, then it's definitely worth checking out Otter Brewery (a really good range with a cracking bitter).",
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"text": "Also Abbey Ales are the only ales actually brewed in Bath, not to say that Bath Ales aren't great, but this is real Bath ale!",
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"text": "Depending how far SW you go, Exeter Brewery's Avocet Ale is a nice drop that you can have a really good session with.",
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"text": "Hope this helps!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Have you tried Wickwar Brewery ?",
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"text": "If you like darker beers, the Station Porter is one of the best I have ever tasted.",
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"text": "It's got a great brewery shop and well worth a visit.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you're really willing to push your own limits, try The Wild 's sour/wild beers.",
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"text": "I became aware of them last year completely by accident, in a trip to UK, and loved their Modus Operandi beer.",
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"text": "I also had another very light pale sour wich wasn't remarkable compared to the first one, but fairly ok.",
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"text": "(I guess it probably should have had more time in the bottle to develop and reach its full potential).",
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"text": "Sours beers are not for everyone, and the common first reaction to them is negative.",
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"text": "But, if one get over that first shocking experience, go on and try it again, people usually fall in love with it.",
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"text": "They are called Wild because they use in their fermentation process, in addition to possible other yeasts, brettanomyces yeast, also known as wild yeast, a different species, found in some kinds of wine and belgians beers (lambics, flanders red), which gives very rustic but complex and delightful aromas to the beer.",
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"text": "It doesn't actually makes a beer sour (it actually produces a very small amount of acid only), but \"wild\" beers usually have other types of what is called bugs (bacteria and other fungi) in it, which does leave a lot of acid to the final beer, making it sour.",
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"text": "They also have regular beers (IPA, Saison, Pale Ale), and they're almost always creative and daring on their recipes.",
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"text": "I guess, whether you like it or not, all their beers are worth a try, because those guys seem to take brewing very seriously and you can expect nothing less than quality stuff.",
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"text": "I wish I was still there to taste all their beers.",
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"text": "And a bonus",
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"text": ": they're from Evercreech, soutwest.",
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{
"text": ";)",
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"text": "Look it up at their site and see what they've got.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Not a great answer since I have no specifics for you.",
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"text": "Going out to local bars and stores selling beer and shopping around can find you stuff, but it's expensive.",
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"text": "Though if you're lucky someone might be at one of these places to help you.",
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"text": "Another avenue might be to use something like beeradvocate.com, ratebeer.com or untappd.com to get recommendations based on how you rate beers you've had but these are only as good as other user's ratings...",
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"text": "They may miss a lot of small or new brands and might not necessarily recommend beers you can actually find near you.",
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"text": "I am pleased to add a pint that I enjoyed particularly: Firefly Bitter is an excellent 3.7% amber ale produced by Hanlons Brewery in the county of Devon.",
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"text": "Further, why not to try those of St. Austell from Cornwall?",
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"question": "I would like the other beer enthusiasts to suggest some new ales for me to try. I enjoy all Bath Ales and Box Steam Brewery; I'm more a fan of a bitter and less so of pale ales. Can you advise of any brands of a similar or superior quality I might try? (In the South West of the UK). The cheaper end of the scale (Spitfire, speckled hen) doesn't interest me. Many thanks in advance.",
"title": "Broadening my horizons (Ale recommendations in South West UK)",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<breweries><local><ale>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/3453",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4303/t0rn"
} | 29_40 | [
[
"Otter Brewery, Abbey Ales, Exeter Brewery's Avocet Ale, Wickwar Brewery and Station Porter, Firefly Bitter produced by Hanlons Brewery and St. Austell from Cornwall are ales recommended in the South West of England",
"Suggestions include Otter Brewery, Abbey Ales in Bath, Exeter Brewery's Avocet Ale, Wickwar Brewery, especially their Station Porter, Firefly Bitter by Hanlon's Brewery in Devon, St. Austell in Cornwall and the wild beers produced by The Wild. For further advice, websites like beeradvocate.com, ratebeer.com or untappd.com offer recommendations by other users."
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"Suggestions include Otter Brewery, Abbey Ales in Bath, Exeter Brewery's Avocet Ale, Wickwar Brewery, especially their Station Porter, Firefly Bitter by Hanlon's Brewery in Devon, St. Austell in Cornwall and the wild beers produced by The Wild.",
"Websites like beeradvocate.com, ratebeer.com or untappd.com offer recommendations by other users."
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"text": "You are correct that in countries like France and Italy, beer consumption is replaced by much higher wine consumption.",
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"text": "It's a cultural difference that has been developed and ingrained over many centuries, back to when trade was more limited and more difficult, and Northern Europe was colder than it is today.",
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"text": "For much of that time, the climate in Southern Europe was ideal for growing grapes and producing wine, while it was simply too cold further north.",
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"text": "So, Southern Europe produced and drank wine, Northern Europe produced and drank beer, thus creating regional preferences that persist even to this day.",
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"text": "It is curious to note that much to the chagrin of the Lowlanders some of the earliest beer history dates from the Roman empire.",
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"text": "These types of beers did not use hops.",
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"text": "The hop beers dated from 8th century and was first developed in Germany.",
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"text": "It was not long before the new technology in brewing spread to Neighboring Belgium and a little while there after it jumped the channel to the British island.",
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"text": "It is was evident from a early stage in the history of brewing that these hops where only made in a handful of places in the old world and the beer culture centered around these places.",
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"text": "The Goldbach Valley in western Bohemia, near the town of Saaz, and the Mittelfrüh subregion of the Hallertau being the most famous.",
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"text": "That being said northern Italy is busy with a nice beer renascence",
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"text": "In the case of France it is more or less how is says in the accepted answer.",
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"text": "In the case of Italy they consume in general little alcohol for European standards: List of countries by alcohol consumption per capita (Wikipedia)",
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"text": "This can also be observed when there (which I am a lot).",
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"text": "Cafes are popular which do in general also serve alcohol, but in the evening it usually remains at one drink often an Aperitif (Aperol Spritz for example) or a single beer or a glass of wine.",
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"text": "In the beginning most in Western Europe drank beer,the Romans however started converting to wine.",
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"text": "It wasn't long before the idea spread that wine was somehow more sophisticated, contrary to beer, which was only drunk by Barbarians.",
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"text": "After Caesars conquest of Gaul.",
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"text": "It is clear that the romanized parts drink less beer and more wine, and the Germanic area produces more beer (+ the Belgian region which were there was a lot of germanic immigration).",
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"text": "The reason Spain produces a lot of beer is probably because the relative dryness and infertile grounds make it not ideal to grow wine (largest area of wineyards, only third in production).",
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"text": "As noted in Xander's ♦ answer , it is a cultural reason as to why both France and Italy have such a lower beer consumption than their neighbors?The answer would be all too simple to say it is because they can.",
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"text": "Not only is it a cultural thing, it may have an historical cultural reason.",
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"text": "The top wine producing countries are Italy, France followed by Spain.",
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"text": "The reason why Spain produces less wine and beer may be due to its' drier climate.",
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"text": "Spain produces about 5 billion bottles of wine annually and is actually home to the largest number of vineyards of any European country.",
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"text": "However, its vineyards are more spread out and produce smaller yields than vineyards in France or Italy due to the drier soil common in many wine-growing regions of Spain.",
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"text": "Although more than 400 varieties of grapes are grown in Spain, just 20 of those account for nearly 90% of all Spanish wine production.",
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"text": "The 4 Countries that Produce the Most Wine Why Italy and France produces less beer and yet more wine may be due to the influence of its' Catholic heritage.",
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"text": "Both France and Italy have strong roots with Catholicism and the Holy See.",
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"text": "Italy was once the home of the Papal States (8th century - 1870) and France was home the papacy during the Western Schism .",
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"text": "We must keep in mind that for Catholics wine is absolutely necessary for their liturgy.",
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"text": "In fact the Vatican is at the top of the list of wine drinking nations.",
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"text": "Vatican City is at the very top of the wine-drinking league with an average resident consuming an impressive 54.26 liters a year.",
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"text": "Although it may seem surprising that the Holy See grabs top spot, it does have a uniform and unusual demographic.",
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"text": "Its residents are older and tend to eat together in large groups while the consumption of Communion wine is standard practice for a large proportion of them.",
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"text": "Andorra, another small European nation, is in second place with 46.26 liters consumed per capita.",
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"text": "France places fifth, with residents drinking 42.5 liters of wine each year.",
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"text": "The World's Biggest Wine Drinkers",
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"text": "Sorry, the top answer here is kind on the right track but not 100%.",
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"text": "It all has to do with the CLIMATE of these countries.",
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"text": "Generally, in the northern hemisphere, you cannot make quality wine above the 50th parallel.",
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"text": "It simply starts to get too cold to grow grapes that get ripe enough for wine.",
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"text": "OTOH, you can grow barley just about anywhere.",
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"text": "So, why did they choose wine over beer then?",
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"text": "The other reason why wine is the preferred drink where you can grow grapes is that beer goes bad quickly and does not transport easily.",
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"text": "Whereas, wine can be stored a long time and transported long distances (we are of course talking about ancient history).",
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"text": "So, given a choice, our ancestors usually choose wine.",
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"text": "Here is a map to show where grapes can be grown and it explains why historically it was grown where it was.",
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"question": "Consider the map of per capita beer consumption by county from Wikipedia : Zooming in on Europe, something that jumps out is that France and Italy consume much less beer than their neighbors: What has caused these two countries to be pretty much surrounded by other countries with higher beer consumption? I would imagine to some degree this is caused by replacing beer consumption with wine consumption, but what led to these regional differences in alcohol preferences?",
"title": "Why do France and Italy have so much lower beer consumption than their neighbors?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<history>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/4624",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4526/josliber"
} | 29_41 | [
[
"France and Italy consume less beer than their European neighbors. To a large extent this is a historical situation: in the past Southern Europe produced and drank wine; Northern Europe produced and drank beer because of the climate. The Romans spread wine-drinking culture and Romanized areas tend to drink more wine than beer. In Italy, alcohol consumption in general is low compared to the rest of Europe.",
"Italy and France are countries with a strong culture and history of wine production, so beer is less pronounced. Wine was easier to store, while beer would go bad quickly and was difficult to transport. Northern European countries were less able to grow grapes and could grow barley and hops, so they produced more beer. This is also a cultural difference partly related to the influence of the Roman Empire and Roman Catholicism, leading to more wine consumption in romanised countries and more beer consumption in Germanic countries. While Spain is a warm romanised country with a Catholic tradition, it is drier than France and Italy and therefore less productive for wine growing."
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"Italy and France are countries with a strong culture and history of wine production, so beer is less pronounced. Wine was easier to store, while beer would go bad quickly and was difficult to transport. Northern European countries were less able to grow grapes and could grow barley and hops, so they produced more beer.",
"This is also a cultural difference partly related to the influence of the Roman Empire and Roman Catholicism, leading to more wine consumption in romanised countries and more beer consumption in Germanic countries.",
"While Spain is a warm romanised country with a Catholic tradition, it is drier than France and Italy and therefore less productive for wine growing."
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"text": "In Brazil, we have a few.",
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"text": "But, in general, they're not an original beer, really created by some musician, but more a marketing thing.",
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"text": "They only contract a micro brewery to develop a recipe for then, or even use a previously existent beer and re-brand it with their names.",
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"text": "Examples are: Raimundos, Sepultura (which is a brazilian hardcore band well-known around the world) and Paralamas do Sucesso, bands which have a beer with their names produced by Bamberg Brewery, a microbrewery of São Paulo state dedicated exclusively to german styles.",
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"text": "The former 2 being merely a re-brand of Bamberg's flagship beers.",
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"text": "Velhas Virgens is a rock band from São Paulo which have their own brand too, and more than one beer, and I think someone inside the band homebrew.",
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"text": "Nowadays they produce in association with Invicta brewery, and I guess they have some contribution for them in the products development, although, of all those \"rock band beers\", they seem to be the most genuine/authentic initiative.",
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"text": "The way I see this thing on the craft beer scene is: people trying to take advantage of this trending market and make money out of it.",
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"text": "It's like you being a famous person and associating your name with some product, whatever it is, just because you know people will buy it only because of your image/name, and not because of what is really inside of it.",
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"text": "If you want a look at a large variety of the band beers available this is a great site where you can buy them: Icon Beverages .",
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"text": "In Russia we have ARIA (АРИЯ) heavy metal band branded beer, made by Faxe.",
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"text": "Marketing way of Faxe.",
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"text": "As presentation of this event the band played a concert right at the Faxe brewery.",
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"text": "In South Africa (where I am from) the band FokofPolisiekar had two beers.",
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"text": "In other countries: Queen has a Bohemian Pilsner.",
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"text": "Loosely related: Playboy also has their own beer.",
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"text": "Not a band, I know.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/984/Atron Seige",
"score": 2
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"sents": [
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"text": "In Denver CO, Trve Brewing collaborates with a variety of metal bands for some if their beers.",
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"text": "There's also Black Sky and Black Shirt Brewing.",
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"text": "Then there's the E40 malt liquor, but I forget who brews it.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/27/object88",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In Texas, Real Ale brewed Iron Swan Ale for The Sword.",
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"text": "They followed that up with another Sword branded beer, Ghost Eye.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5187/mrshl",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Hell, yes ! (source: acdc-beverage.com )",
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"text": "I have never drunk it though :) Update.",
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"text": "German rock band",
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],
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},
{
"text": "\" Die toten",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Hosen \" (\"The dead pants\", means \"deadly boring\")",
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"text": "has recently presented its own beer brewed in collaboration with a local brewery -",
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"text": "\"Hosen Hell\" (don't be confused with \"hell\", it's German for \"pale lager beer\", so the skull is from the band's logo not from hell.",
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{
"text": "See also note below)",
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{
"text": "In Russia, there is \"Leningrad band\" beer named after Russian \" Leningrad \" band.",
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"text": "Note:",
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"text": "Same applies to \" Fucking Hell \".",
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"text": "Fucking is a village in Austria, Hell is pale beer.",
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"text": "But the name is obviously an intended pun.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4742/Altbier is not Old Beer",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Does your country have any band or music based special crafted beers?In Finland I can get Mötorhead, Kiss, Iron Maiden and Finnish bands like Amorphis and soon Diablo's Corium Black titled beer. I was wondering that if I could get information that different countries have band or music related beers I could order some online for educational purposes.",
"title": "Which band beers exist in your country?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<specialty-beers>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/4816",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5050/Pole"
} | 29_42 | [
[
"Band beers can be found in some countries. In Brazil, there is Raimundos Sepultura and Paralamas do Sucesso, as well as Velhas Virgens. In Russia, there ARIA beer made by Faxe. In South Africa, FokoPolisiekar has two beers and Queen has a Bohemian Pilsner sold around the world. In the US, Trve Brewing produces brands for a variety of bands and, in Texas, there is Iron Swan Ale for The Sword.",
"Several Brazilian bands have beers produced by Bamberg Brewery, and Velhas Virgens produces a homebrew beer. Russia has an ARIA-brand beer, South Africa has two beers connected with FokofPolisiekar and Queen has a Bohemian Pilsner. Trve Brewing collaborates with several heavy metal bands, Real Ale brewed Iron Swan Ale for The Sword and ACDC has a beer."
]
] | {
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5
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[
"Several Brazilian bands have beers produced by Bamberg Brewery, and Velhas Virgens produces a homebrew beer.",
"Russia has an ARIA-brand beer, South Africa has two beers connected with FokofPolisiekar and Queen has a Bohemian Pilsner.",
"Trve Brewing collaborates with several heavy metal bands, Real Ale brewed Iron Swan Ale for The Sword and ACDC has a beer."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are a few main things contributing to this 'hype'.",
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"text": "Firstly is the addition of the lime.",
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"text": "It adds the citric acidity that pairs well with the light beer and gives it a unique zing that you don't find in other easily available beers.",
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"text": "Secondly, its a light beer that is easy and pleasurable to drink.",
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"text": "It may not have rich notes that some love, or special characteristics, but what it gains is wide appeal and a product that you can't really hate, even if you don't absolutely love it.",
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"text": "It is a very refreshing beer to drink when compared to a heavier lager or IPA.",
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"text": "Finally, is the marketing / ambiance it embodies.",
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"text": "This is very likely a smaller contributing factor, but often one recalls having a nice corona on the beach as they relaxed, or correlate the beer to that image in their head, so it has that mental factor as well.",
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"text": "It comes down to the fact that reviews and 'class' aside, you should be drinking the beers you enjoy, and for many non-connoisseurs Corona fits that bill very well.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5771/Avik Mohan",
"score": 9
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"sents": [
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"text": "Corona used to be a cheap Mexican Beer available in the US.",
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"text": "When its popularity fell a little bit, the company's marketing wing decided to provide provocative ads and increase the price.",
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"text": "Americans bought that (the marketing) and Corona now is a \"desired\" beer in the US.",
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"text": "That's my take based entirely on personal observation and this: http://www.aef.com/pdf/effie/corona_2006.pdf",
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"text": "Corona is not the first to use this marketing approach, gold schnapps did the same thing and were somewhat successful, though they didn't have the windfall that Corona had.",
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"text": "Remember Gold Schnapps?",
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"text": "It used to be a cheap schnapps, with enticing and interesting \"gold\" flakes drifting slowly through the drink.",
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"text": "The new Gold Schnapps is more expensive and the companies accentuate the \"gold\" flakes...",
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"text": "I haven't looked, but I'll bet this marketing also worked.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5808/Bill Raybourne",
"score": 5
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I wouldn't even call it a fad, it's a cheap drink that's light and not too alcoholic.",
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"text": "I think more than anything, Americans are attracted to it's Mexican/fiesta advertising and they just feel like it makes a moment more festive.",
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"text": "Disclaimer: Not a Corona fan.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5779/NTDLS",
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"sents": [
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"text": "My two cents - Corona is an accessible beer (both geographically and taste-wise).",
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"text": "You can get it anywhere, and it doesn't contain any of the strong flavors that come with liberal use of hops, malt or yeast (such as found in the IPA, stout, or Belgian varieties).",
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"text": "Lagers are generally easy-drinking, and when paired with a great marketing campaign and a little wedge of lime, makes for a beer that almost anyone can drink 3 or 4 of.",
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1
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1
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/3905/Chris Steele",
"score": 4
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My greatest like of Corona is the fact that it's a light bear and that it pairs very well with lime.",
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"text": "This way in the summer when it's how, it is a very refreshing beer and easy to drink.",
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"text": "Also this is the way it's marketed, a \"summer party\" beer so it fits its role well.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5796/IronWilliamCash",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have heard a lot about corona in terms of its taste and being the great alcoholic beverage !! It is worth the hype or just a fad ?",
"title": "What is so special about corona beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<specialty-beers>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6239",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5778/Chaturvedi Saurabh"
} | 29_43 | [
[
"Corona is a lager with the addition of lime. Lagers are generally easy-drinking, and when paired with a great marketing campaign and a little wedge of lime, makes for a beer that almost anyone can drink 3 or 4 of. The lime adds the citric acidity that pairs well with the light beer and gives it a unique zing that you don't find in other easily available beers. Moreover, it is light, very widely available, low in alcohol and cheap. It is very well marketed as a summer party beer.",
"Corona is a refreshing beer without strong flavour notes and that pairs well with lime. It is not very alcoholic and can be drunk in a relaxed atmosphere. Corona has also benefitted from a strong marketing campaign that highlighted its association with leisure time, summer and Mexican culture."
]
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"Corona is a refreshing beer without strong flavour notes and that pairs well with lime. It is not very alcoholic and can be drunk in a relaxed atmosphere.",
"Corona has benefitted from a strong marketing campaign that highlighted its association with leisure time, summer and Mexican culture."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I usually use either Jägdbitters (a Jägermeister-like bitters sold at Aldi) or my family's version of Bärenjäger (which I prepare at home - nope, it's not bitters, but it was also used historicaly for the same purpose), mostly when I feel a cold coming up due to catching rain.",
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"text": "Jägermeister gives a soothing feel to the throat if taken when you're already with the cought, but if taken as a preventive, it makes me feel like a warm blanket was dropped over my shoulders",
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"text": "and I don't get the actual cold afterwards.",
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"text": "It always works we me too, better than pharmacy bought stuff.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "When I tended bar, I had several regulars who would drink club soda with a couple splashes of bitters to calm an upset stomach.",
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"text": "But it never did anything for me personally.",
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"text": "I don't know if it's purely a psychological effect or a your-mileage-may-vary situation.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5817/John Feltz",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I use it when my thorat is hurting.",
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"text": "But I also like it just by the taste of it.",
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"text": "My favorite one is called \"Hopfenbitter\" example",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4109/Florian Neiss",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I have episodes of heartburn, usually from eating beef or potatoes",
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"text": "and I find it very soothing to drink a splash of bitters in club soda.",
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"text": "I make homemade bitters with ginger, grapefruit, gentian root, and several spices that seem to be the most effective.",
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"text": "Bitter herbal liqueurs are popular in Europe for before or after a meal to stimulate the appetite or aid digestion.",
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"text": "Gentian root is one of the most common bitter agents.",
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"text": "While I don't know of any clinical studies, gentian root has been used in herbal medicine for centuries to treat digestive issues.",
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"text": "It makes sense from an evolutionary perspective because bitter compounds are mostly found in plants and are often more or less poisonous.",
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"text": "If the body produces more digestive enzymes in response to bitter flavors, the extra enzymes can neutralize the poison or extract more nutrition from the plant material.",
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"text": "It's certainly not totally effective, salivary enzymes won't save you from hemlock poisoning, but it could reduce the ill effects of mild poisons.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Angostura bitters and club soda is a regular drink in my house.",
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"text": "I find that it calms my stomach and just generally makes me feel better.",
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"text": "I like to use a heavy dose of bitters--usually like 8-10 dashes--per 8 oz of soda.",
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"text": "Fernet is also a real godsend for digestive ailments, but be warned that it's very, very bitter.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5929/cocktailenthusiast",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "When I have a nasty cough or a cold I drink Jägermeister to soothe the sore throat and to keep me from coughing every five seconds.",
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"text": "I find it cools my throat and makes it less itchy.",
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"text": "This works really well for me, a lot better than actual cough medicine.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5933/JustMike",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Commonly known amongst bartenders, a remedy for curing the hiccups is to eat a lemon wedge doused with bitters .",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "(In case anyone is wondering... don't eat the rind.",
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},
{
"text": "Bleh.)",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Traditionally Angostura bitters are used, although it's possible that Angostura's use is due to availability, for a long time it was the only type of bitters most bars carried.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "A caveat though, the lemon trick is only recognized for curing hiccups induced by drinking alcohol.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I say it's still worth a try, no matter the cause of the hiccups.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "If the flavor sounds unappealing you can put granulated sugar on the lemon in addition to the bitters.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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"text": "Sugar has a hidden benefit too, it's a known hiccup remedy when taken by itself... and not just the ethanol induced ones.",
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"text": "Ramazzotti , an Italian herbal/bitter liquor.",
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"text": "I drink a shot glass full of it when ever I have a stomach ailment.",
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"text": "For me, the best remedy for a particular type of stomach pain is bitters----horrid tasting Underbergs, delicious Jaegermeister, or intermediate Fee Bros Cardamom.",
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"text": "Visiting Hungary, I have now discovered Unicum.",
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"text": "I believe they all work by triggering the release of acetylcholine, which causes release of gastric acid, increased peristalsis (propelling movement of stomach and intestines), bile secretion and possibly direct effects on intestinal lining cells.",
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"text": "I use gentian bitters (made from violets, such as Fee Brothers Aromatic Bitters, Peychaud's Bitters or Angostura) with soda water for stomach ailments.",
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"question": "Bitters are known to have medicinal qualities. I've never used them beyond making killer cocktails... But, I've noticed that orange bitters, in particular, will imbue me with an added vigor or gusto, at times. I've heard certain bitters can be consumed for stomach and headaches but, I've never been able to replicate the affect. What added physiological or psychological sensations have any of you noticed when consuming bitters? Which bitters have you consumed for what particular ailment(s)?",
"title": "Does anyone here still use bitters as medicine? Which ones do you use and for what ailments?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<history><health><spirits>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6261",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5847/Tim Burnett - Bassist"
} | 29_44 | [
[
"Bitters are still used as medicine. Jägdbitters and Jägermeister are used as a cold remedy and for a sore throat. Bitter herbal liqueurs are used in Europe for digestion. Bitters can also be used for an upset stomach, gentian bitters, for example. Bitters have been used historically to counteract poisoning and although not completely effective they do counter mild poisoning.",
"Jägermeister and other bitters can be used to sooth a sore throat or a cough or cold. Gentian bitters with soda are soothing for stomach ailments or to ease indigestion. Gentian root is a traditional herbal medicine to treat digestive issues, and may work by increasing the production of enzymes."
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"Jägermeister and other bitters can be used to sooth a sore throat or a cough or cold.",
"Gentian bitters with soda are soothing for stomach ailments or to ease indigestion.",
"Gentian root is a traditional herbal medicine to treat digestive issues, and may work by increasing the production of enzymes."
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"sents": [
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"text": "Hobby",
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"text": "Some people do it as a pleasurable hobby.",
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"text": "You might also ask why someone would build furniture if they could buy it, or why they play a musical instrument if they can just listen to the radio.",
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"text": "And, especially in Germany, you may want to make a style of beer that you can't buy in the store - one that has other flavor ingredients, so it doesn't comply with the beer purity laws.",
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"text": "Hello from the homebrew community.",
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"text": "There are many reasons to brew yourself, and the first reason is because you can.",
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"text": "This question is the same as \"why bake your own bread?",
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"text": "\", \"why grow your own food?\", \"why start your own business?\"",
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"text": "There is something primal and fundamentally connected to nature about brewing, and being able to harness a fungus to produce alcohol.",
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"text": "Not only this, but something spectacularly human about being able to produce something by yourself, and brewing beer and wine is surprisingly easy.",
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"text": "Consider that you then get to drink something you made and the satisfaction of being self-reliant in this respect.",
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"text": "The satisfaction of self-improvement and being able to share your creations with others can't be put into words.",
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"text": "You most certainly can buy beer, but you absolutely can't buy the beer I make.",
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"text": "Also, mine costs a fraction of the price that you pay others to make for you.",
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"text": "I hope I have answered your question.",
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"text": "We brew because we can, because yeast is freely available to all, and because it improves our skills and human capital.",
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"text": "Most of all, just like any trade, whether it be a carpenter, a butcher, or a chef.... we get to enjoy the fruits of our labour of love.",
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"text": "Because its a lot of fun!",
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"text": "I always feel like a mad scientist when I'm boiling up the wort on the stove adding ingredients, especially when adding the hops.",
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"text": "Its quite amazing to watch the yeast consuming the sugars and making the alcohol, yes you can see it!",
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"text": "Large commercial brewers filter most of this out and some even have to add back in the carbonation.",
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"text": "Homebrew is not dangerous, the worst that will happen is bacteria will spoil the beer's taste.",
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"text": "The theory is since the yeast micro-organism already 'lives' in the beer they create an environment that is not favorable to other micro-organisms.",
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"text": "Finally if you are not old enough to buy alcohol, usually you can buy the ingredients and make it yourself.",
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"text": "The brew shop I frequent is very close to a large college campus.",
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"text": "It's exactly as with food.",
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"text": "By cooking* at home, my wife and I can always get the food",
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"text": "** that we are not well equipped or trained to make, but that we happily buy from professionals.",
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"text": "And it's cheaper to do your own cooking* than to buy everything ready-made, if you discount the cost of labour and appliances.",
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"text": "If you want to exclusively have food** that someone else makes, that's your choice, and modern society can provide.",
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"text": "But I think cooking* at home really is rather sensible.",
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"text": "You ask a great question.",
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"text": "But, if you're just playing around brewing you can come up with tastes you never thought of.",
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"text": "You might even like your own recipe.",
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"question": "I am living in Germany and know at least 2 people that do it. But why would you take the risk if you could just buy very good beer at your local stores?",
"title": "Why do people brew their own beer?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<brewing>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6288",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4109/Florian Neiss"
} | 29_45 | [
[
"People brew beer because they can, because they enjoy it, because making things for yourself and being self sufficient is satisfying, because they want tastes not available in the store, and many other reasons. Brewing beer is not dangerous. In fact there are no documented cases of people being poisoned by the beer they have brewed.",
"As with any hobby, people do it because it is fun and they can learn and get better. Making something yourself makes you feel more connected to what you use and consume, and there is a lot of satisfaction in enjoying something that you created. Sometimes the particular kind of beer that you like is difficult to find, or you can experiment with flavours to find one you really like. Homebrew is not unhealthy or dangerous, and the yeast in the beer may suppress more harmful micro-organisms."
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"As with any hobby, people do it because it is fun and they can learn and get better.",
"Making something yourself makes you feel more connected to what you use and consume, and there is a lot of satisfaction in enjoying something that you created.",
"Sometimes the particular kind of beer that you like is difficult to find, or you can experiment with flavours to find one you really like.",
"Homebrew is not unhealthy or dangerous, and the yeast in the beer may suppress more harmful micro-organisms."
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"sents": [
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"text": "Irish whiskey is one I like to do with tea.",
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"text": "In fact I like to make an Irish coffee by substituting the coffee with a strong black tea.",
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"text": "I am rather fond of it.",
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"text": "Gunfire is a classic British rum and black tea cocktail, with a German equivalent in the Jagertee .",
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"text": "Two European great powers can't be wrong - go with the rum!",
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"text": "Wild Turkey American Honey is excellent with most kinds of tea including black, green, and orange pekoe.",
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"text": "Throw in a squeeze of lemon for an delicious, easy to make, and modern twist on the Hot Toddy.",
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"text": "Another alcohol that pairs well with tea is tea flavored vodka.",
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"text": "There are lots of different brands of this such as Firefly and Jeremiah Weed, and typically in bars they are paired with iced tea, they work equally well with hot tea.",
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"text": "Finally, Fireball or other Cinnamon Whiskeys go well with Tea also, but they can often overpower less potent teas.",
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"text": "Once I helped out as bartender, a girl asked for green vodka with green tea.",
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"text": "My father sometimes adds Rum to it.",
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"text": "Preferably German Strohrum (straw rum).",
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"text": "If you like the floral taste of earl grey tea, you might enjoy adding a splash of St. Germain elderflower liqueur and a lemon twist to black tea.",
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"text": "The very refreshing Rosa Mae cocktail combines black tea, gin, honey and lime.",
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"text": "I'm currently sipping a hot toddy made with lemon & ginger herbal tea, honey, and a local whiskey.",
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"text": "It's very soothing on a sore throat.",
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"text": "Tea and beer can be a great combination.",
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"text": "I have a blog post here about some tea beers that I made in cooperation with a local brewery.",
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"text": "The combination of cinnamon orange spice tea with a hefeweizen worked especially well, as hefes are often served with a slice of citrus.",
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"text": "I took a class a few years back on pairing tea with whiskey (or whisky).",
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"text": "They were focused on serving the whiskey and tea separately rather than blending them, but blending can work nicely.",
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"text": "I'm a fan of smokey malty Scotch — mostly the Islays — and it blends nicely with a powerful black tea.",
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"text": "If you really dig the smoke flavor, blend an Islay Scotch with a lapsang souchong or Russian Caravan tea.",
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"text": "If you like citrus flavors in your tea, try using a splash of Triple Sec or Cointreau.",
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"text": "Enjoy!",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/7787/Gary R.",
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"text": "In Northern Germany they handle it in the following way.",
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"text": "First they take rock candy and put it into a glass.",
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"text": "It can be brown or white rock candy.",
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"text": "The glass is filled up with brown rum which has a Vol% between 38 and 40 of alcohol.",
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"text": "It is possible to mix and use it immediately, but most people just put it aside for a while.",
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"text": "After some time the fluid of rum becomes glutinous and the surface of the rock candy becomes soft.",
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"text": "When this mixture is in that status they put some spoons of it into the cup and fill it up with black tea.",
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"text": "Could be from Ceylon or comparable.",
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"text": "When filling up with the hot tea the rock candy crashes internally and when mixing up the tea with it all it becomes a wonderful experience especially in wintertime.",
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"text": "Hot mint tea goes great with rum.",
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"text": "Almost any kind of rum will do it.",
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"text": "This is a beverage that is drunk usually in the cold season and you can find it at the chalets near the skiing spots (as rum keeps you warm).In Romania if it's winter and you get to one of this chalets and ask for \"a tea",
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"text": "\" it is possible that you will automatically get an alcoholic tea without any notice.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/11508/Nico Co",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'll add some Japanese suggestions to this list.",
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"text": "Cold oolong tea with shochu (usually barley) is a very common mix.",
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"text": "Also, jasmine tea with awamori is an Okinawan favorite.",
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"text": "Both are light, easy to drink and refreshing.",
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"text": "If there's a Japanese market near you, you can probably get both the liquor and tea there.",
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"text": "I've also seen interesting green tea-infused cocktails, like martinis, mojitos and highballs, though I haven't had a chance to try those yet.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/7430/Jimmy",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I absolutely love brandy in tea.",
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},
{
"text": "Hot black tea with brandy, cream, and sugar!",
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},
{
"text": "Nom, nom, nom!",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/11490/NifaFifa",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I drink tea. I had a thought about putting something into it. What good alcohol can I think about putting into the tea?",
"title": "What alcohol would go good with tea?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<taste><recommendations><drinking>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6315",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5889/user6035379"
} | 29_46 | [
[
"Top picks for an alcohol that goes with tea are: Irish whiskey, rum, Scotch whiskey, brandy, vodka, schochu, awamori, St, Germain elderfloer liqueur, gin and beer.",
"Whiskey/whisky, rum and brandy all pair well with black tea, and some herbal teas. There are several cocktails and mixes with green tea, including martinis, mojitos and highballs. Cold oolong tea with shochu and jasmine tea with awamori are regional favourites. Whiskey, gin and other alcohols can be mixed with rum and tea, especially with some added citrus. Beer can also go well with tea, again with some citrus flavouring added."
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"Whiskey/whisky, rum and brandy all pair well with black tea, and some herbal teas.",
"There are several cocktails and mixes with green tea, including martinis, mojitos and highballs. Cold oolong tea with shochu and jasmine tea with awamori are regional favourites.",
"Whiskey, gin and other alcohols can be mixed with rum and tea, especially with some added citrus.",
"Beer can also go well with tea, again with some citrus flavouring added."
]
] |
[
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"text": "Generally, you'll want to avoid things with brighter, more acidic fruit flavors (apple, lemon) as those will mess with the inherent acidity of the coffee (although it should be noted that cherry is sometimes used) Kahlua and Baileys are commonly used, as are more woodsy whiskeys.",
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"text": "Avoid anything with carbonation, as the carbonic acid will again mess up the flavor of the coffee (beer is a no-no) and you should also avoid scotches, rye, or other peaty-earthy whiskeys.",
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"text": "Also, rum is pretty good with coffee, if you're using raw sugar in your coffee - demerara and rum are best friends.",
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"text": "Rumpleminze (peppermint schnapps) and coffee and cream creates a smooth and potent alcoholic drink.",
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"text": "Add a Godiva Chocolate Liquor for a first class-after dinner cocktail.",
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"text": "Grand Marnier(something like an orange flavored brandy) goes well with both black coffee and coffee and cream.",
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"text": "If you like",
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"text": "your coffee black Grand Mariner adds flavor and potency without adding a lot of sweetness.",
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"text": "Of course it goes just as well with cream, which results in something a lot like a chocolate orange.",
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"text": "A Tuaca(people often describe it as tasting something like butterscotch)",
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"text": "Macchiatto(my own recipe) is an alchololic twist on the classic coffeeshop favorite.",
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"text": "Mix a shot of Tuaca into a shot of steamed milk.",
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},
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"text": "Top with Coffee.",
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{
"text": "This tastes mild but packs a decent punch, and if you take the time to do it properly (\"mark it\"), it looks pretty cool.",
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{
"text": "(This also tastes great with regular milk or cream.)",
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},
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"text": "A second variation on this, which is far less potent is to replace Tuaca with 1/2 a shot of Chambord and 1/2 a shot of Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur and mix thoroughly .",
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"text": "This will an tasty adult white chocolate mocha.",
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"text": "Finally, a classic cocktail combination is coffee (with or without cream) and Sambuca.",
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"text": "Sambuca is often served with 3 coffee beans, but it works very well with an entire cup.",
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"text": "Sambuca contributes a lithe sweetness that delicately lingers in the mouth.",
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"text": "Avoid",
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},
{
"text": "if you don't like Anise or Licorice.",
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"text": "For a seriously potent version of Sambuca and Coffee swap out Sambuca for Absinthe(not refined).",
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"text": "In addition to the alcohol content, Absinthe also offers a jolt akin to what caffeine provides. Be responsible and Enjoy!",
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"score": 4
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},
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"text": "I like the sweeter liqueurs like Glayva, Grand Marnier and especially Galliano with espresso.",
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"text": "If you have a milk-based coffee, combine with a cream-based liqueur.",
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"text": "I have never liked alcohol mixed directly in the coffee, it gives conflicting tastes.",
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"text": "Coffee and liqueur should be sipped separately to fully enjoy each.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6084/Michael Cox",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I just shove any cheap whisky (usually grouse) into espresso coffee and add a little caster sugar -",
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"text": "thats good!",
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"text": "Other combinations are espresso coffee with a shot of baileys and a shot of bourbon topped up with whipped cream and a little sugar to your taste.",
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"text": "The type of coffee in my experience (which is plentiful!)",
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"text": "dosent really make much of a difference, buy mid range espresso coffee and you can create beautiful things.",
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"text": "I also add liqueur into coffee for people at work",
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"text": "(barman - coffee liqueurs arent my thing)",
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"text": "but theres plenty of people on youtube who will show you how to make the perfect coffee liqueur.",
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"text": "Enjoy the beautiful combination that is coffee and alcohol.",
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],
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I will add here an Italian recipe that I recently discovered and enjoyed a lot!",
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"text": "The drink called Moretta Fanese is referenced on both Italian and English Wikipedia.",
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"text": "In a transparent coffee or punch glass, one spoon of sambuca (anisette), one spoon of rum and one spoon of brandy or cognac are mixed with sugar and a lemon zest and heated with steam.",
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"text": "Then, one espresso is added in a way to leave three layers visible in the hot cocktail: bottom to top liquors mix, coffee and coffee foam.",
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"text": "A super flavour, really recommended!",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/8580/MattAllegro",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "What alcohol products go well with a particular type of coffee? I enjoy the odd Irish Coffee occasionally. Desiring to expand my coffee/alcohol combos, I would like to know what types of coffee goes well with what type of alcohol? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.",
"title": "What alcohol products go well with a particular type of coffee?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<taste><recommendations><drinking>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6356",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5064/Ken Graham"
} | 29_47 | [
[
"When mixing alcohol with coffee, it is better to avoid fruity flavors. Alcohols that go well are: Kahlua, Baileys, some whiskeys, rum, bourbon, Sambuca, Absinthe, cream-based liqueurs with milk coffee, Rumpelminze, Godiva Chocolate Liqueur, Grand Marnier, Glayva and Galliano. Some people believe coffee and liqueur should be sipped separately.",
"Bright and acidic flavours will conflict with the acidity of the coffee, and carbonation should be avoided. Woodsy whiskeys and rum are popular and better pairings than peaty-earthy whiskeys. Sambucca is commonly served with espresso beans, and goes well with a cup of coffee. Absinthe can have a similar effect. Cream-based liqueurs such as Kahlua and Baileys go well with milk-based coffees, and can be topped with cream. To avoid conflicting tastes, coffee and liqueur can be sipped separately rather than mixed together. Sweeter liqueurs like Grand Mariner, Glayva, Galliano, Rumpelminze or Godiva Chocolate go well with espresso."
]
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[
"Bright and acidic flavours will conflict with the acidity of the coffee, and carbonation should be avoided. Woodsy whiskeys and rum are popular and better pairings than peaty-earthy whiskeys.",
"Sambucca is commonly served with espresso beans, and goes well with a cup of coffee. Absinthe can have a similar effect.",
"Cream-based liqueurs such as Kahlua and Baileys go well with milk-based coffees, and can be topped with cream.",
"To avoid conflicting tastes, coffee and liqueur can be sipped separately rather than mixed together.",
"Sweeter liqueurs like Grand Mariner, Glayva, Galliano, Rumpelminze or Godiva Chocolate go well with espresso."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My favorite French cheese is Roquefort and is often served with nuts and honey in France.",
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"text": "I would like to recommend an Appletini with Roquefort along with the most authentic French bread you are able to procure in your area.",
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"text": "The French love their fruit and fruit flavored food and drinks.",
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0
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},
{
"text": "Appletini cocktail : Vodka with dashes apple juice and apple liqueur.",
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"text": "Serve in a classic martini glass with Roquefort, French bread and garnish with apple slices as garnish.",
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"text": "This is one that I have had in France and enjoyed it very much, perhaps you would too.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5064/Ken Graham",
"score": 4
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},
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"sents": [
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"text": "Please allow me to make a second recommendation for you.",
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"text": "This one I have not tried, but I have had the Soup au Vin with strawberries and it was absolutely great.",
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"text": "For a twist on this blackberry wine might also go well with it (real natural blackberry wine and not the blackberry flavored ones).",
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"text": "Simply pair your favorite champagne with a piece of flavorful Comte and the gentle flavored, bubbly wine will create the perfect compliment to the cheese (fromage).",
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"text": "For the cocktail: Make punch by combining one bottle of pink champagne, one bottle of red wine, one 16 oz.",
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"text": "can of frozen lemonade and one 16 oz.",
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"text": "can of fruit punch.",
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"text": "Garnish with fresh strawberries .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Since you mention sheep cheese and dark fruit, I'll address that type of pairing.",
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"text": "You want a cocktail that reflects the item you pair with the cheese.",
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"text": "Start with the Luxardo cherry in a Manhattan ( epicurious on Luxardo cherries ).",
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"text": "Then, think about sweetening up the otherwise stiff-but-smooth Manhattan to better complement the cheese.",
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"text": "For example, replace the vermouth with tawny or ruby port; or, replace 0.5 ounces of the whiskey with blackberry brandy.",
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"text": "In general, start with a solid principal (e.g., fruit pairing) and an established cocktail with some element of the pairing, then experiment using your palate as a guide.",
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"text": "It may take several iterations, but that is the fun, is it not?",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Manhattan with Brie.",
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"text": "Dirty Martini with Brie.sounds delish.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In France one would expect a good red wine with the cheese.",
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"text": "Maybe you can go that route with a red wine based cocktail.",
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"text": "I don't have a proven recipe at hand but a quick google showed up with lots of results.",
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"text": "Lillet Rouge (a red, French sweet vermouth) is close in taste to red wine, maybe a vodka-martini with Lillet Rouge suffices, but you would need to try.",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The competition is now over and the good news is that we won the French stage by axing everything around Normandy",
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"text": "and it turned out really well:",
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"text": "Here is the recipe we followed : http://www.1001cocktails.com/cocktails/5865/recette-cocktail-partie-au-calvados.html",
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"text": "(using \"brut\" cider)",
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"text": "And I bought a nice cheese from Normandy:",
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"text": "A Pont l'évêque.",
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"text": "We served a small toast of nice old style campaign multi cereal French cheese with a slice of Pont l'évêque.",
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"text": "The cocktail and the toast were so different that they completed each other:",
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"text": "Nice acidity and sugar from the cocktail thanks to the lemons (we let it infuse for 24 hours and",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "the result was reaaally good, at some point we almost decided not adding cider nor perrier) and the fatness and strenght of the cheese surprisingly came out very well.",
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"text": "Anyway thanks for your insights guys, and don't hesitate to try the recipe ;-)",
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"score": 0
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}
] | {
"question": "For a kind of cocktail competition I'm running against friends, I need a cocktail around France theme, my idea is to pair a cocktail with a French cheese. I know that cherries do pair well with bask sheep cheese for example (we're used to eat it with black cherry jam) Would you have a cherry flavored cocktail to advise ? Or any other cheese / cocktail association ? Many thanks!",
"title": "What cocktail could be paired with French cheese?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<recommendations><pairing><cocktails>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6416",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6171/SMASHED"
} | 29_48 | [
[
"In France, wine would be served with cheese. However, other options are suggested including Appletini with Roquefort, Champagne with Comte, Manhatten with Brie and Dirty Martini with Brie. As pairing cocktails with cheese is unusual, some experimetation starting froma solid principle may be in order.",
"A good red wine with the cheese would be a traditional combination in France itself. Champagne would compliment Comte, or a Manhattan or Martini with Brie. When creating your own cocktail to match the cheese, try to pair the cheese with a fruit, and choose a cocktail based on this and an established cocktail."
]
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"A good red wine with the cheese would be a traditional combination in France itself.",
"Try to pair the cheese with a fruit, and choose a cocktail based on this and an established cocktail.",
"Champagne would compliment Comte, or a Manhattan or Martini with Brie."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "At the time of writing this the strongest beer in circulation is a scottish made larger/pilsner Snake Venom By Brewmeister , this beer is 67.5% ABV.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "and is strongly recommended that you only drink small amounts in a sitting, buying a bottle(275ml) of this would set you back a £54.99 Other than this beer there was Koelschip Mistery Of Beer - Brouwerij het Koelschip that was 70% ABV",
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"text": "but as I'm aware is no longer in circulation and has had production stopped as the brewery shut down As far as",
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],
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"text": "all alcohol goes the strongest spirit is spirytus rektyfikowany which is a 96% Vodka.",
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"text": "The cheapest you will find this is a small bottle(10cl) and this will cost £7.95",
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"text": "It is is strongly recommended to not drink this neat as it would be damaging",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5078/Jamie Eltringham",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Indirect answer 95% or 190 proof is an upper end for distilled alcohol Water and ethanol form an azeotrop at that mixture so you can not get more than 95% ethanol with fractional distillation.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/4903/paparazzo",
"score": 12
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Spirytus Rektyfikowany",
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"text": "The purity of rectified spirit has a practical limit of 95.6% ABV; this hard to pronounce Polish Vodka is a murderous 96% ABV.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Here are the details on the bottle: A 10cl bottle of rectified spirit from Poland bottled at the extreme ABV of 96%.",
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],
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],
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"text": "This is often used as a base for liqueurs and other infusions, and we highly recommend that it is never drunk neat.",
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"text": "From Australia's \"Courier Mail\" : National Alliance for Action on Alcohol co-chairman Professor Mike Daube",
"label": [
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"text": "said it was \"amazingly irresponsible'' for stores to sell the liquor, which had the potential to cause serious damage to drinkers or even kill them.",
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"text": "Prof Daube said the extreme nature of the product could appeal to young binge > drinkers, and putting the product next to normal spirits could endanger people who did not read the label properly.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6417/Kaka Singh",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For those who wish to drink something from Bolivia, there is Cocoroco which is an alcoholic beverage notable for its extremely high alcohol content by volume, 96%.",
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"text": "(ABV).",
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"text": "Cocoroco is sold as \"potable alcohol\", most often in tin cans.",
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"text": "Like rum, cocoroco is made from sugar cane.",
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{
"text": "-",
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"text": "Cocoroco (Wikipedia) Cocoroco can",
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"text": "The following article may be of some all around interest: Top 10 Strongest Alcoholic Drinks in the World.",
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"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/5064/Ken Graham",
"score": 8
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},
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"sents": [
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"text": "For myself, I have found that Everclear is the strongest spirits I have ever bought at 190 proof.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Although it is too strong for myself to drink by itself, it makes excellent mixes.",
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"text": "Some people have use it to extract the medicinal properties out of plants because of its' strength.",
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"text": "It also comes in 150(1) proof bottles too.",
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"text": "A bottle of 190-proof Everclear",
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"text": "The lower proof Everclear is much easier to find and is quite common in the USA.",
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"text": "The 190 proof (95% ABV) is sold at Bevmo , depending on your state.",
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"text": "For more information see the Liquor Barn .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You can buy scientific grade Ethanol, usually at a science supply shop.",
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"text": "Many of them only sell it in person.",
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{
"text": "It is usually 99.5% or 199 proof! .",
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{
"text": "For that extra kick if Everclear isn't strong enough for you!",
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"text": "Ethanol at Fisher Scientific",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6111/farmersteve",
"score": 5
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Try \"Kehlenschneider\".",
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{
"text": "It's a Chili liquor with 80% alc and 400,000 to 800,000 scoville.",
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"text": "Remember, tabasco has only 3,000 scoville.",
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"text": "Kehlenschneider Chillischnaps",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6445/SaschaHa",
"score": 5
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I know you are looking for \"normal outlets\", but for those who are interested, the world record holder for a while was Estonian Spirit aka Eesti Piiritus at 96.6%.",
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"text": "You can still find some for sale at auctions.",
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},
{
"text": "I brought a few bottles back when you could still buy it and foolishly did a shot of it.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Never trying that again!",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6488/Randar Puust",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Hapsburg Premium Reserve",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Absinthe has 89.9% ABV",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The strongest absinthe on the UK market.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Serve well diluted for your own safety and keep well away from naked flames.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "The term premium reserve refers to the high strength, with original being the 'weakest' (though still 72.5%) and super deluxe being in the middle.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Please note this is a high-strength product and we recommend not drinking neat",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "– please enjoy diluted or with a mixer of your choice.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/374/woliveirajr",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Assuming that it is available through 'normal' outlets - shops, supermarkets, off licenses etc... (in other words legal) What (per unit) is the strongest alcoholic drink in the world? Beers, wines and spirits included.",
"title": "What is the strongest drink in the world?",
"forum": "beer.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<alcohol-level><spirits>",
"link": "beer.stackexchange.com/questions/6561",
"author": "beer.stackexchange.com/users/6366/dougal 5.0.0"
} | 29_49 | [
[
"The strongest spirit available in outlets is spirytus rektyfikowany which is a 96% Vodka. Without the limitation of \"normal outlets\", the world record holder for a while was Estonian Spirit aka Eesti Piiritus at 96.6%.",
"95% or 190 proof is around the limit for fractional distillation, but several brands such as Spirytus Rektyfikowany, Cocoroco, Eesti Piiritus or Everclear are 95, 96 or higher. The strongest beer in circulation is the lager/pilsner Snake Venom, which is 67.5% ABV."
]
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] | [
[
"95% or 190 proof is around the limit for fractional distillation, but several brands such as Spirytus Rektyfikowany, Cocoroco, Eesti Piiritus or Everclear are 95, 96 or higher.",
"The strongest beer in circulation is the lager/pilsner Snake Venom, which is 67.5% ABV."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "According to the suttas, samsara has no beginning.",
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},
{
"text": "There are many references to this.",
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],
"answer_details": {
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Is there a starting point to a circle?",
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},
{
"text": "Just like that, there's no starting life to Sansara.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "But you can break this circle at 2 points.",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "Ignorance.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Craving.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "That is when you attain Nibbana.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/111/Sankha Kulathantille",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The answer to your question depends on how one understands the word \"start.\"",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Etymologically, the English word means to jump, leap up, or move or spring suddenly, thus, to arise, to come into being.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In accordance with the law of karma, the whole process of samsara itself must be self-starting.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "This can be proved logically based on the law of karma, which requires that every cause have an effect and every effect a cause.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Since samsara is time itself, the essence of time is the identity of cause and effect, thus, the moment, which is then extended in space as past and future to create the infinitely differentiated world that we experience.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, as the illusory negation of reality samsara must inhere in the non-illusory, which is reality itself.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Therefore, samsara also inheres in reality, and in that sense has a logical - but not a temporal - \"origin.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "\" This \"start\" is the principle of karma itself, which is the inherent kinetic principle in transdual reality.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "This is necessary to explain our experience of samsara.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Otherwise, there would just be nothing at all.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This point of identity of samsara and reality is, once again, the moment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Therefore, the answer to your question is that the start of samsara is the inherently timeless and therefore eternal moment, which paradoxically is the origin of time, space, and causality that endlessly differentiates in infinitely variegated patterns.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This view of the cosmos remarkably presages certain theories in modern physics, especially the holographic theory of the universe.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Beginning of Samsara is stated by Buddha as not knowable for ordinary beings.",
"label": [
1
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Knowing rightly would be to not imagine in regard of its beginning.",
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},
{
"text": "Usually Samsara is imagined as round of re-births in the six realms, or much more detailed view as bhavacakra .",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/145/catpnosis",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Your question has two parts",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "so i will answer in the following order...",
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"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "How to understand \"Samsara\" and how it works.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Sansara or Samsara is the word Lord Buddha picked to name a certain circle of death and life.",
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},
{
"text": "What is samsara As we Buddhists believe as long as a being lust for existence he will be born according to his Karma.",
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1
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "To this process we call \"Sansara or Samsara\".",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "So where is the start of samsara?",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Even Lord Buddha was intrigued by the question and started to find a solution.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "The only way to do it is to look back into your own past to find your first life.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So Lord Buddha went back countless amount of lives and understood that the \"Beginning\" is very ancient the time we have in a life is not enough to look back and see that life.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So lord Buddha said this to the Sangha",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "\"There is no point in looking for a start,it is too old and trying to find an answer is a waste of time\".",
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "And advised that no one should try to find an answer to it (Because they will not be able to find it)",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So my friend that question can't be answered by any being in the universe,Because if there is something out of Lord Buddha's reach it is out of anyone's reach.",
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"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "So how does samsara work?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "How it works is complicated but i will give you a simplified version of it.",
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Samsara needs fuel like your car,As long as you give fuel to it it will keep working and you will have life after life to live.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Let me give an example from lord Buddha.... \"Karma is the paddy field,Lusting is the water,vinyana is the seed\"",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In the real world without water a seed will not grow,likewise without \"Greed or lust\"",
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},
{
"text": "you will not be born,without it there is no samsara but as long as you have it you will have samsara and you will have to suffer in whatever karma brings you.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/7141/Theravada",
"score": 1
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Buddhism basically deals with the present.",
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{
"text": "Dwelling the mind on past or future unnecessarily creates mental vexation.",
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{
"text": "Hence, concepts like God, origin, etc. are not dealt in Buddhism.",
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{
"text": "It doesn't matter why or how the samsara came into existence, what matters is that samsara does exist.",
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},
{
"text": "Now when samsara exists and we exist, our effort should be eradicating problems that give rise to suffering.",
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"text": "For example, because you are thinking about the origin, you are to some amount troubled by the question.",
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"text": "So as per Buddhism you should not focus your mind on such irrelevant questions as they unnecessarily create suffering.",
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{
"text": "However, if you are really looking for answers then you should consider studying the philosophy of other religions.",
"label": [
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"text": "If you do, then you will find the answer to be God.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "Then the question of starting point of God will arise in your mind.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you look into science, it says Big Bang is the starting point.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "But in my view, Nothing is the starting point.",
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},
{
"text": "Only that which has come to exist can have a starting point.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "How can that which doesn't even exist have a starting point?",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I know this sounds ambiguous, but it's hard to explain here in few words.",
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{
"text": "You can check the following link if you like, but my findings there is based on Vedic scriptures: http://shunyavada.com/",
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}
] | {
"question": "Every Buddhism believe in Eternity or Samsara . So, how can I imagine of Samsara ?. What is the starting of it ? Any suggestions would be really appreciated.",
"title": "What is the starting of Samsara?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<belief><samsara>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/39",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/65/Cataclysm"
} | 30_4 | [
[
" \" This \"start\" is the principle of karma itself, which is the inherent kinetic principle in transdual reality. Therefore, the answer to your question is that the start of samsara is the inherently timeless and therefore eternal moment, which paradoxically is the origin of time, space, and causality that endlessly differentiates in infinitely variegated patterns. As Buddhists believe as long as a being lusts for existence he will be born according to his Karma. It doesn't matter why or how the samsara came into existence, what matters is that samsara does exist. ",
"The process of samsara is self-starting and the \"start\" is the principle of karma - inherently timeless and involving a series of re-births. There is no beginning or starting point to samsara and the concept is considered to be beyond comprehension."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
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"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
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"Only that which has come to exist can have a starting point."
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} | [
6
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[
"There is no beginning or starting point to samsara.",
"The process of samsara is self-starting and the \"start\" is the principle of karma - inherently timeless and a series of re-births.",
"The beginning of samsara is considered to be beyond comprehension."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I am not sure we should worship statues itself as that would be some sort of idolatry.",
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"text": "Buddhists worship Buddha, and statue or other image is just symbol , something that bring into our memory good qualities of Buddha.",
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"text": "It's mindfulness of Buddha.",
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"text": "Statue is a symbol, and symbol is communication which states about its subject, Buddha in our case.",
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"text": "Thus, showing respect before statue should be directed to Buddha as Jewel, and not to statue.",
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"text": "Mindfulness and respect to the Saint and Teacher is good action.",
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{
"text": "Btw, Buddha is not disappeared, he stated that he will remain in his Teaching (Dharma).",
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"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/145/catpnosis",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Thanissaro says in many places that the act of respect develops hand-in-hand with learning the path: In their eyes, the religious attitude of respect is needed for any philosophical understanding to grow .",
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},
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"text": "And as far as they're concerned, there's no conflict between the two.",
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{
"text": "In fact, they're mutually reinforcing.",
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{
"text": "Opening the Door to the Dhamma: Respect in Buddhist Thought & Practice",
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"text": "The veneration of statues with flowers and so on should be a natural expression of your development of the path.",
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{
"text": "The act of putting flowers next to a statue doesn't save anyone or develop anything, but it's an expression of your faith that what the Buddha taught is really worth learning:",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Respect is the attitude you develop toward the things that matter in life.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/31/Caleb Paul",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "No one should worship any Statue, in death bed Lord Buddha says not to build any statue of him.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "More over He had been saying this all his life that his path is the path of practice not worship.",
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},
{
"text": "Now comes your Question why should we worship him ?",
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},
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"text": "Once a king denied to worship a statue, then swami vivekananda asked him to spit on one his fathers portrait, as a result kind was angry.",
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},
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"text": "So we should always keep in mind that the most important thing is to focus our minds, some may need help to keep it focused maybe some statue and some may need breathing techniques, some doesn't need anything, they just sit totally blank, As everything came out of nothing, nothingness is god, having a controlled & focused mind in nothing is all we need to do.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/9846/Rishi",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The true Buddha is the Eternal Buddha revealed in the Lotus Sutra.",
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},
{
"text": "It is not a normal human being.",
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{
"text": "The statue serves as a tool for remembrance, but it's actually an inferior symbol, because it depicts the bodily form of the Buddha.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A scroll with written characters is better.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A Sutra (text) is more similar to the true Buddha-body than a statue of Siddharta Gautama.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The true Buddha-body cannot be expressed or depicted so it expediently reveals itself in ways that are understandable to our feeble minds - such as \"infinite buddha\" (amitabha) etc.",
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Since the true buddha is formless, it cannot be depicted or potrayed.",
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},
{
"text": "But since it compassionately discloses itself to ignorant beings, it allows to be depicted in such a way.",
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},
{
"text": "It's simply a useful device.",
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"text": "It's dangerous though, because someone might cling to that body and believe a Buddha's body can decay, break or die.",
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"text": "That's not possible according to the Nirvana Sutra - the Buddha's body is permanent & eternal.",
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"text": "- To answer your question: what we really worship is the Buddha-nature that is present in every sentient and even insentient being.",
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"text": "It's in you & me too.",
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"text": "Buddha is a Sanskrit word meaning knowledge.",
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"text": "Thus a statue of Buddha is a personification of knowledge.",
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"text": "Buddhists do not pray to Knowledge (Buddha statue).",
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"text": "They venerate knowledge because 'knowledge is power'; they pursuit knowledge.",
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"text": "Theists hope to get power by praying.",
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"text": "Teaching of Lord Buddha (Budda is a statue) is for practice, diligent strenous practice, to get knowledge.",
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"text": "See definition of Buddha and Buddhism in Oxford Dictionaries.",
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"text": "Lets say the Buddha was alive today and you offered Dana to the Buddha.",
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"text": "But what if the Buddha does not accept it?",
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"text": "Will you still not get the merits for your good intentions and the effort you put into preparing the Dana for the Buddha?",
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"text": "It's about the quality of your thoughts throughout the time you spent on it.",
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"text": "No one worshiping Buddha in India, We just ignite candle only .",
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"text": "And so if we gonna experiencing just observe you'll see Buddha's statue, his face",
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"text": "there's en lighted spirit, you'll not find with other gods, only Buddha's eyes are closed and peaceful spirit on face.",
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"text": "Peaceful atmosphere you'll feel.",
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"text": "Worshiping means bribe from devotee and want praise through chants; but we don't have to worship Buddha to achieve peace.",
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"text": "He just beyond concept of god and religion.",
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"text": "You can meditate next Buddha's statue.",
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"text": "There is no reason we have to.",
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"text": "There is also no reason I have to.",
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"text": "Plus there also is the same reason you don't have to either.",
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"text": "Since you have free will, you can choose to do so however.",
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"text": "The Buddha never asked to be worshiped, he only asked that we use the Dhamma and Vinaya as a guide to cessation.",
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"text": "Respect and veneration of the Buddha are wonderful, in that they engender a respect for their Buddha, Dhamma and Sangha, but valuing the Buddha as anything more than a teacher will likely lead to attachment and stress/suffering.",
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"text": "The Buddha shined a lamp onto an individual path, one without an idol - where the cessation of stress/suffering is realisable in the here and now, generally with him as a guide.",
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"text": "In the Kalama Sutta he denies the absolute validity of all speculation, no matter what this speculation is grounded in, rather asking each one of us to search out and find out the knowledge found in the Dhamma for ourselves!",
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"question": "Why should we worship Lord Buddha statues with flowers, lights and food, even when we know Lord Buddha is not alive and does not exist? Did Lord Buddha instruct us to do so or is there any other reason?",
"title": "Why should we worship statues of Lord Buddha?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<the-buddha><iconography><worship>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/89",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/132/Nalaka526"
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[
"The statue in Buddhism acts as a remembrance of the Buddha and his teaching, it is not being worshipped itself. Some people need a statue to remind them, other need meditation, others need nothing. The statue helps, it is not central.",
"Some believe that a statue should not be worshipped, as this could be considered to be a form of idolatry. However, others believe that a statue may be useful as a tool to assist focus and mindfulness of Buddha and a show of respect. Some people think that the most important thing is to focus and that this is a matter of personal choice."
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"Idolatry of a statue is not encouraged.",
"A statue may be used as a symbol, a reminder of Buddha and an expression of faith.",
"The most important thing is to focus.",
"There is no reason to worship a statue, this is a personal choice."
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"text": "The difference will always be the mental state of the person performing the action.",
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"text": "Giving is dependent on one's state of mind while giving; the amount is intrinsically inconsequential (though obviously a poor person will feel more strongly about giving $1000 than giving $1).",
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"text": "As Sakka, king of the devas of Tavatimsa says in the Vimanavatthu: \"Natthi citte pasannamhi, appikā nāma dakkhiṇā;",
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"text": "Tathāgate vā sambuddhe, atha vā tassa sāvake\"ti.",
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"text": "(vi. va. 804); There is not, when the mind is confident, such a thing as a small gift, In regards to a Tathagata, fully enlightened Buddha or, furthermore, his disciples.",
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"text": "Giving to the Buddha is considered to be of greater merit, not because of the benefit to the Buddha, but because of the ability to inspire faith and confidence in the giver.",
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"text": "As for killing, the mental state involved in killing large animals is generally more intense; also the sense of the weight of the act is greater, so the mind will be more strongly affected by it.",
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"text": "Killing virtuous people, parents, etc. is even worse, because it sets one squarely against virtue.",
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"text": "But there is no hard and fast rule here either; if you obsess over killing a single mosquito buzzing over you at night, you may cultivate more unwholesomeness than a single act of killing a larger animal.",
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"text": "Furthermore, karma isn't a single act of killing; it may be cultivated every moment; every thought concerning a moral or immoral act is karmically potent, so it's imprecise to ask if x or y is good or bad, better or worse, since karma is only a single thought moment at a time, and thus the potency depends upon the nature of the individual mind states.",
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"text": "Yes, there is a difference, and it is in the intent of the action.",
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"text": "If you kill a frog out of cruelty, that's a much worse karma than when you kill a snake to protect someone.",
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"text": "Yes, there are.",
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"text": "It is not same as giving someone $1 and giving someone $1000.",
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"text": "Similarly it is not same as killing a small animal and killing a big animal.",
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"text": "Of course the action is the same, but the resulting emotion or the experience created in the object that is acted upon is not same.",
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"text": "Hence, the magnitude of karma varies.",
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"text": "If you give a man $1 he may not feel that happy or grateful to you, but if you give him $1000 then he will feel more grateful and happy.",
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"text": "He will feel indebted to you and this will create a stronger karmic link.",
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"text": "For real life scenario just think which person will like to help you more, the one you gave $1 or the one you gave $1000?",
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"text": "What makes the difference?",
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"text": "The experience of the emotion created in their mind through your action.",
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"text": "Hence, if you give a person $1 who is starving without food will create more positive karma than if you give $1000 to a rich person like a millionaire.",
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"text": "Similarly, when you kill small animals like a mosquito the resulting effect is less because the suffering they feel is less.",
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"text": "The developed the consciousness and self identification of an animal is, the more suffering it is likely to feel at its death.",
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"text": "For example, a mosquito will hardly think of its family and children while dying compared to a mammal animal like an elephant or a human.",
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"text": "Since apart from physical pain mental suffering and experience of the object also matters, the more the animal feels the combined pain, the greater the karma involved will be.",
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"text": "Even the earthly law (as in courts) doesn't operate this literally.",
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"text": "And the Karmic law is a whole lot wiser.",
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"text": "It's a mistake to think of the Karmic law as a tit for tat.",
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"text": "The intention as well as the state of the doer matters.",
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"text": "The same action may have a different Karmic consequence based on the state of the doers.",
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"text": "Giving $1 to someone may be a very hard thing for a poor man to do while Giving $1,000 to someone may be a very easy thing for a rich man to do.",
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"text": "Additionally, one may be giving with the intention of sating their ego - to feel good about oneself - while the other may be doing it due to genuine goodwill.",
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"text": "Many more such factors would be taken into account by the Karmic law.",
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"text": "So, yes, there is a difference.",
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"text": "Karma is determined by: intensity of ones own volition, and mental state of the recipient (which acts like an amplifier) Killing a insect may not be as harmful as killing a person as the insert has a lower mental state.",
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"text": "If you give to a pious person and non pious person then the Karma from giving to the pious person is more.",
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"text": "If you give a small sum with a strong volition it will give better results than giving a large sum with a weak volition.",
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] | {
"question": "Is there a difference in karma of giving someone $ 1 and giving someone $ 1000, or its same for anything given? and Is there a difference in karma of killing a small animal (like mosquito or small fish) and killing an big animal (like a cow or an elephant), or the karma is same for all killings ? If there is a difference what makes the difference?",
"title": "Are there any differences in karma?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<karma>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/106",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/132/Nalaka526"
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[
"S0: The difference will always be the mental state of the person performing the action. If you give a small sum with a strong volition it will give better results than giving a large sum with a weak volition. As for killing, the mental state involved in killing large animals is generally more intense; also the sense of the weight of the act is greater, so the mind will be more strongly affected by it. If you kill a frog out of cruelty, that's a much worse karma than when you kill a snake to protect someone. Furthermore, karma isn't a single act of killing; it may be cultivated every moment; every thought concerning a moral or immoral act is karmically potent, so it's imprecise to ask if x or y is good or bad, better or worse, since karma is only a single thought moment at a time, and thus the potency depends upon the nature of the individual mind states. Karma is determined by: intensity of ones own volition, and mental state of the recipient (which acts like an amplifier) Killing a insect may not be as harmful as killing a person as the insert has a lower mental state. ",
"Intentions are important. Thoughts have a karmic effect, whether positive or negative. Killing a large animal (like a cow)has a greater karmic effect than killing a small one (like a mosquito), because of the mental state required to carry out the act. The more pain felt by the animal in question, the greater the karma involved will be. Intentions also matter when giving. It is of greater karmic value to give to a pious or needy person than a non-pious or non-needy person. The action may be the same, but the result may differ. For example, $1 for someone who is starving is more significant than $1000 for a millionaire."
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"In the question of killing, the intention of a person greatly affects karma. Thoughts have a karmic effect, whether positive or negative. Killing a large animal (like a cow)has a greater karmic effect than killing a small one (like a mosquito), because of the mental state required to carry out the act. The more pain felt by the animal in question, the greater the karma involved will be.",
"Intentions also matter when giving. It is of greater karmic value to give to a pious or needy person than a non-pious or non-needy person. The action may be the same, but the result may differ. For example, $1 for someone who is starving is more significant than $1000 for a millionaire."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "In mainland Southeast Asia, indigenous spirits have been incorporated to a greater or lesser degree into Buddhist belief systems.",
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"text": "I believe this is known as syncretism.",
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"text": "In Burma these spirits are called nats , in Thailand phǐ.",
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"text": "Thai",
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"text": "phǐ can be benign, like house spirits, or they can be malevolent “ghosts”.",
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"text": "You can see a variety of Thai ghosts in this TV ad for light bulbs",
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"text": "(the slogan is “in the bright light, no one is afraid”).",
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"text": "The family is having a picnic within the grounds of a temple (an odd thing to do), and the father tells his son the name of each ghost.",
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"text": "The huge emaciated type, which is called a preta or hungry ghost, you might say is more “Buddhist” than the others because it often appears in depictions of Buddhist hells.",
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"text": "The preta’s mouth is just a tiny hole, so it can’t eat properly, which might be punishment for greed in a former life.",
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"text": "Thai light bulb ad",
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"text": "It's not always as clear as 'good' or 'evil'.",
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"text": "Angry, vengeful spirits also exist in forms of Buddhism.",
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"text": "Sometimes also seen as protectors, they can be a source of controversy.",
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"text": "More common is one's own belief in (or, more practically, fear of) something that is indefinitely, and irreparably, sinister or evil.",
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"text": "We subscribe to all sorts of interesting notions as children, some things tend to persist.",
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"text": "Ultimately, it's what your mind manages to trick you into into feeling; there are plenty of Christians that don't believe that demons exist so it really does depend on the individual.",
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"text": "So, yes to the concept (with emphasis on what neubau mentions about indigenous spirits ), but belief is a little more complicated; belief coupled with a healthy dose of ambivalence can be quite common.",
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"text": "For children, I think the boogeyman is rather universal :)",
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"text": "No. If it were, it would be the same as saying: \"I am a Buddhist, you are not, you do the opposite of what I do and \"believe in\", hence I am good",
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"text": "and you are wrong, hence you are devil.\"",
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"text": "In my humble opinion, it is only about being able to going back to null and \"see\" things around as they are and those who don't (haven't).",
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"text": "And those who don't (haven't) are not evils, for they haven't understood and therefore they are still bind to pleasures, attachments, ego and the \"I\" that drive them to perform what they do.",
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"text": "They haven't been able to \"unshell\" themselves from these \"qualities\" through compassion and dis-attachment of the aforementioned.",
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"text": "Thanks for question.",
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"text": "Yes, Buddhism has evil spirits :)",
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"text": "In Pali Canon, in Jatakas, and in Tibetan Buddhism poems (for example \"100,000 songs of Milarepa\") there are numerous references to spirits and demons, both good and evil.",
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"text": "Many of them are metaphorical depictions of various psychological forces taking possession of a person (e.g. Mara, the spirit of doubt and confusion, that famously challenged Buddha by suggesting he wasn't really enlightened).",
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"text": "Others are personifications of the \"spirit\" (energy, mood) of a certain place (e.g. a haunted forest).",
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"text": "There are also Rakshas, (former) people so completely possessed by evil forces that they are no longer considered people , e.g. the jungle cannibals.",
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"text": "From modern perspective, the concept of demon is not necessarily a superstition, but more like a poetic way to talk about real phenomena taking place.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/43/Andrei Volkov",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Checkout the \"States of Deprivation\" under the 31 planes of existence .Beings",
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"text": "there are not necessarily evil.",
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"text": "Rather they were born there because of evil deeds.",
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"text": "But we do have an evil god called the Mara.",
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"text": "He lives in the heaven called \"Paranimmita-Vasavatti\" Whoever holds the title 'Mara' is always evil as long as he holds that title.",
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] | {
"question": "Some of the western religions have evil spirits like devils and demons. Does the concept or belief in evil spirits occur in Buddhism?",
"title": "Does the concept of evil spirits occur in Buddhism?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<evil>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/190",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/113/James Jenkins"
} | 30_7 | [
[
"The concept of evil spirits exists throughout South East Asia. However, some believe it is alien to Buddhism as it would be the same as saying: \"I am a Buddhist, you are not, you do the opposite of what I do and \"believe in\", hence I am good.",
"Evil spirits do exist in Buddhism and have been incorporated into belief systems to a greater or lesser degree. These evil spirits are known as Nats in Burma and phǐ in Thailand. There are also numerous references to good and evil spirits and demons inPali Canon, in Jatakas, and in Tibetan Buddhism poems (for example \"100,000 songs of Milarepa\"). The Rashkas are people so possessed that they are no longer considered to be people. Also, the evil god known as Mara challenged the enlightenment of Buddha. However, some people do not believe that evil spirits exist in Buddhism."
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"Evil spirits do exist in Buddhism and have been incorporated into belief systems to a greater or lesser degree.",
"These evil spirits are known as Nats in Burma and phǐ in Thailand. There are also numerous references to good and evil spirits and demons in Pali Canon, in Jatakas, and in Tibetan Buddhism poems (for example \"100,000 songs of Milarepa\"). The Rashkas are people so possessed that they are no longer considered to be people. Also, the evil god known as Mara challenged the enlightenment of Buddha.",
"Some people do not believe that evil spirits exist in Buddhism."
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"sents": [
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"text": "Sez who?",
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"text": "Attachment to Buddhism and to Buddhist philosophy is a very serious problem, which every practitioner should be careful about, since it's so seductive: it's easy to be perceived as progress, whereas it's the very opposite of progress.",
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"text": "To counter this hazard, some Zen schools recommend that \"if you come across the Buddha on the road, kill him!\"",
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"text": "(Not to be taken too literally.)",
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"text": "My understanding is that the Buddha taught that we should not attach ourselves to him or his teachings.",
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"text": "If we find that his teachings don't work, then we should feel free to leave them behind and pursue other paths.",
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"text": "That said, there is also the idea that some attachments are better than others.",
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"text": "For example it is probably better for an alcoholic to replace their attachment to alcohol with an attachment to the 12 steps of Alcoholics Anonymous.",
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"text": "Likewise, it would be better for someone who is attached to suffering or causing suffering in others to replace that with an attachment to the Buddha's teachings.",
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"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/69/GreenMatt",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Buddhism is a \"kayak\" (a guide) that takes one from the endless sea of sufferings to find a harbor.",
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"text": "What would one do in order to commence and land on the harbor?",
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"text": "Leave the kayak - Buddhism - and disembark.",
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"text": "If not, one is attached to the kayak.",
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"text": "Still at sea.",
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"text": "The sea of sufferings.",
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"text": "If someone is insulting the Buddha and the Dhamma, and you become hurt, you are poisoned!",
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"text": "But if you feel neutral (Uppekha) or compassionate (Karuna) towards the person, you are fine!",
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"text": "Identifying with something doesn't necessarily mean you're attached to it, especially if that something is just your way of living.",
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"text": "I identify best with Zen Buddhism, but I'm not attached to it any more than I'm attached to my own consciousness; it's just become how I think, which dictates how I feel.",
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"text": "Attachments are bad because if you lose them, you suffer.",
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"text": "I can't 'lose' Zen without completely losing myself, which is going to happen to all of us one day or another :)",
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"text": "Preference is also commonly confused with attachment.",
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"text": "I prefer a certain knife in my kitchen drawer for slicing tomatoes, but I wouldn't be at all upset if it wasn't there one day, I'd simply replace it.",
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"text": "A part of daily meditation can be imagining losing that which you value the most, so you've experienced it when it ultimately happens, which softens or even mitigates the suffering that might otherwise ensue.",
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"text": "If you can't do that with something, then it's probably not something you could become attached to, but more just a part of your being.",
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"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/83/Tim Post",
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"text": "Do the teachings of the Buddha cause you suffering?",
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"text": "If not, perhaps it's ok to hang on to them for a little while longer on this journey.",
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"text": ":)",
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"text": "I find Buddhism refreshing in this manner as the teachings of some other religions",
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"text": "actually do cause suffering for their followers.",
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"text": "For example people who are excluded from participating fully in their chosen houses of worship due to sexual orientation.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Actually Buddha stated in his suttas after following the Eight Fold Path to attain Nibbana, you should give up the path when you attain the supreme bliss of Nibbana.",
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"text": "It is something like this; think that you wanna cross a river.",
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"text": "There's no boat near by.",
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"text": "So you collect wood and creepers and finally build a small boat and you cross the river using it.",
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"text": "After crossing the river, will you carry the boat with you where ever you go thinking \"this boat helped me to cross the river\"?",
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"text": "No.",
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"text": "You'll leave the boat by the river and you'll go where you need to go.",
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"text": "Buddha state that similarly one should give up the eight fold path after perfectly attaining the supreme bliss of Nibbana.",
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"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/631/Buddhi Kavindra",
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"sents": [
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"text": "@THelper",
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{
"text": "to elaborate on Toby's point.",
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"text": "To call oneself a buddhist is to identify oneself with an ideological construct and therefore to dwell in a mental fabrication.",
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"text": "The ideas of buddhism are arranged into a belief system more commonly known as a view.",
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"text": "To associate your self with this view, is exactly the kind of housebuilding which the buddha espoused against in practically every sutra.",
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"text": "Buddhism is the only \"religion\" which fervently encourages its followers to abandon any part of the belief system when it begins to hold them back rather than help them.",
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"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/6961/Sam Reeve",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I think there is a misunderstanding here.",
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"text": "Buddha was not a Buddhist, he was not attached to the previous Buddha (Kassapa) and still the attained the maxium goal.",
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"text": "Becoming a Buddha or an Arahant does not require attachment, on the contrary, it requires deattachment and equanimity.",
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"text": "Don't think about Buddhism as a tradicional religion, it is more like an analysis of the laws of the universe (both inside and outside), Buddha was simply explaining how things work, what the mind is, the best path to take and the consequences of good and bad deeds.",
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"text": "You should have confidence and gratitude towards the Buddha.",
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"text": "If this becomes a strong attachment this will hinder your progress on the path.",
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"text": "The story of Vakkali is a good example.",
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"text": "If you are dealing with Buddhism as a phylosophy then you are dealing with matters at a conceptual level.",
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"text": "This is feeding into your perception than helping towards the cessation of perception.",
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"text": "If one calls oneself a Buddhist, one has already missed the point.--- from a teacher my daughter had.",
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"text": "Why is attachment to Buddha not a poison?",
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"text": "Because Buddhism (attachment to Buddha, Sangha, Dharma) has meta-attachment:it teaches to even let go of Buddhism itself--but only once one has mastered Buddhism's practices and not a moment sooner.",
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"text": "To be detached from Buddhism a moment sooner would be like a HS student dropping out before he finished.",
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"text": "In short: Buddhism teaches detachment from Buddhism itself.",
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"text": "No other tradition does this.",
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"question": "Attachment (aka craving or greed) is one of the Three Poisons. Why is attachment to Buddha not a poison? Perhaps it's related to the Tibetan Buddhist lojong \"Don't make gods into demons\"?",
"title": "Attachment is a poison. Why is attachment to the Buddha and to Buddhist philosophy not a problem?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<the-buddha><attachment>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/200",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
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[
"My understanding is that the Buddha taught that we should not attach ourselves to him or his teachings. If we find that his teachings don't work, then we should feel free to leave them behind and pursue other paths. Buddhism is the only \"religion\" which fervently encourages its followers to abandon any part of the belief system when it begins to hold them back rather than help them. Becoming a Buddha or an Arahant does not require attachment, on the contrary, it requires deattachment and equanimity. In short: Buddhism teaches detachment from Buddhism itself.",
"It is widely believed that Buddhism requires, teaches and encourages detachment, rather than attachment. If a person identifies with Buddhism, it is a way of life, not an attachment to it."
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"Buddhism requires, teaches and encourages detachment, rather than attachment.",
"Identifying with something is a way of life, not an attachment to it."
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"text": "To put it succinctly you need to rub two pieces of wood long enough to get fire.",
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"text": "Likewise you need to meditate continuously for some stretch of time to see results.",
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"text": "As Goenka says \"Continuity of practice is the secret of success\".",
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"text": "Q.What is gained by learning Vipassana meditation in long retreats?",
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"text": "A.",
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"text": "You get to observe your mind and body.",
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"text": "By observing sensations arising in your mind and body and knowing that it is impermanent, you learn not to react to it as you did in the past.",
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"text": "So, as you practice the art of non reaction to your sensation, slowly then you become free from all sufferings.",
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"text": "They key here is \"non-reaction\", no war whatsoever with mind (craving and aversion).",
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"text": "Just acknowledging the sensation as they are and non reaction to it is my friend, the only way to liberation.",
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"text": "Non-reaction again",
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"text": "i stress which i believe is the heart of this technique and logically is the only way to liberation.",
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"text": "You learn this technique in a 10 day retreat.",
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"text": "Its up to you to practice the technique for rest of your life and later after you get well versed in this technique 24 hours a day.",
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"text": "Note: If you are going to vipassana retreat as taught by Mr. Goenka, it is tough retreat and you have to work hard but very \"gently\" to train your mind.",
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"text": "It will not be easy but will be very worthwhile if you understand the technique properly.",
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"text": "I just give you sketch, the retreat will give you whole picture.",
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"text": "Wheel of dhamma is spinning, since it was first launched into action by samma sam buddha.",
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"text": "Background.",
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"text": "15 years ago I went to a 10 day Vipassana Retreat.",
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"text": "I lasted 4 days.",
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"text": "10 years ago I went again and finished the Retreat.",
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"text": "I went for a 3 day Retreat this last winter.",
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"text": "It doesn't seem to get easier.",
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"text": "I have learned something different each time.",
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"text": "I had been meditating 30 mins.",
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"text": "early in the day (anapana not Vipassana)",
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"text": "4 months ago I decided to meditate 40 mins.(Vipassana)",
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"text": "twice a day.",
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"text": "I am noticing subtle changes ....",
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"text": "changes that are giving me insight into myself.",
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"text": "I see thoughts before they become words.",
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"text": "I see my thoughts before becoming engulfed in them.",
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"text": "It has given me space to see before I talk or act.",
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"text": "I am still a victim of my thoughts at times ....",
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"text": "but experiencing these subtle changes and the results has made all my effort a pittance in comparison to what I am starting to realize.",
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"text": "Perhaps I am a slow learner .... and my token gesture for daily meditation was not sufficient to realize progress.",
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"text": "The difficulty in the 10 day is part of the the process ... for me.",
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"text": "It helped me realize that I am capable of overcoming my thoughts.",
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"text": "I always had been one for short term rewards.",
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"text": "Maybe until 4 months ago .... I wasn't ready for a more dedicated practice.",
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"text": "Now I am beginning to make a conscious effort in my daily life.",
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"text": "Body sensations and anapana when not doing sitting meditation are something I'm trying to use more in day to day life .....",
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"text": "I still forget much more often than not.",
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"text": "It's okay.",
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"text": "I have seen progress.",
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"text": "Part of the process of progress is being okay with where I am now.",
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"text": "You gain an intense and unbroken continuety in meditative practice.",
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"text": "That can be a deep and profound way to experience the dhamma through practical realization.",
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"text": "Especially in beginning of ones practice it is useful to get a point of reference .",
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"text": "Buddhism is big and wide and holds a tremendous amount of teachings.",
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"text": "One can read book after book but without any reference-point to reality, i.e. experiental knowledge gained through insight meditation, one can easily fall into the \"believe or not-believe\" category.",
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"text": "By doing an intense retreat with a teacher one will achieve insights for oneself that will serve to make one develop the first path factor of the noble eightfold path which is \"Samma Ditthi, Right View\" .",
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"text": "That is like our steering-wheel on the path.",
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"text": "If one does not achieve any insights on the retreat one will at least get a good feeling of what buddhism and meditation really is.",
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"text": "One will also have a teacher to interact with and thats a great thing since in beginning of practice there will be a lot of questions.",
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"text": "Other than that one will learn a lot about oneself in such an intense retreat.",
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"text": "One will learn about ones own limitations, sitting postures, habits, aversions, likes, wantings etc.",
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"text": "When one spends so much time with oneself one is bound to experience the content of ones mind.",
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"text": "That can be a profound experience, even just to get a glimpse of what really happens inside ones own mind.",
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"text": "One begins to see that phenomena are causally connected, that phenomena can cause new phenomena to arise and that objects will not spawn if the supporting conditions are not there or if they fall away.",
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"text": "In an intense retreat like the 10-day retreat one could also get to see the impermanent nature of phenomena on a deeper level than the day to day level.",
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"text": "So there are definitely a lot of advantages of these retreats.",
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"text": "There are also disadvantages as with everything in life.",
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"text": "Maybe one has bodily limitations that limit one from sitting for long hours in the same position.",
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"text": "Maybe one is stressed out and cannot focuz the mind.",
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"text": "The point is that even if there are \"bad\" things that will affect one on the retreat one will get to know these things and be able to work with them.",
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"text": "That is powerful because how often do lay-people have the oppertunity to really work deep on themselves in everyday life?",
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"text": "I've done 6 days of the 10 day Goenka course after which I left due to irreconcilable philosophical disagreements both with Goenka and with the teacher.",
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"text": "Nevertheless, I found the course to be a powerful way to improve my meditation.",
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"text": "After meditating for 12 hours a day with no distractions, I found it very easy to meditate for an hour a day with the usual daily distractions.",
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"text": "10 days of meditation is what led Siddartha to enlightenment.",
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"question": "My understanding of S.N. Goenka's method for learning Vipassana meditation is that the student is introduced to meditation in a 10 day retreat in which he or she sits in silent meditation for almost all his or her waking hours. This seems a daunting way to introduce meditation to a newcomer. Also, for many people, it could be difficult to arrange for 10 days without family or work obligations. Thus, I ask: What does the student gain by through an introduction to meditation via a \"marathon\" retreat?",
"title": "What is gained by learning Vipassana meditation in long retreats?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vipassana><meditation-insight><beginner>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/1336",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/69/GreenMatt"
} | 30_9 | [
[
"You need to meditate continuously for some stretch of time to see results. You gain an intense and unbroken continuety in meditative practice. Especially in beginning of ones practice it is useful to get a point of reference. As you practice the art of non reaction to your sensation, slowly then you become free from all sufferings. Other than that one will learn a lot about oneself in such an intense retreat. If one does not achieve any insights on the retreat one will at least get a good feeling of what buddhism and meditation really is.",
"A long period of time spent practicing is likely to enable the participant to progress and achieve results. participants will have the opportunity to explore their own minds and learn about their own limitations. They will also have the opportunity to develop non-reaction to sensations. For those new to meditation, guidance and interaction at the start of the journey will help to answer the many questions and lead down the correct path. Participants will find that phenomena are interconnected and the 10-day format allows them to meditate without the usual day-to-day distractions. This enables people to meditate better when they return to their normal lives."
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"A long period of time spent practicing is likely to enable the participant to progress and achieve results.",
"Intense meditation leads participants to explore their own minds and learn about their own limitations. They will have the opportunity to develop non-reaction to sensations.",
"Guidance and interaction at the start of the participant's journey will help to answer the many questions and lead down the correct path.",
"Participants will find that phenomena are interconnected and the 10-day format allows them to meditate without the usual day-to-day distractions. This enables people to meditate better when they return to their normal lives."
]
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[
{
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"text": "The practice of monks getting a Dharma name upon ordination is very old and widespread.",
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"text": "(It would be interesting to know the flip side question- is there",
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"text": "any Buddhist order than doesn't involve Dharma names?",
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"text": "I can't think of one)",
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"text": "Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dharma_name",
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"text": "This article discusses the modern practice in Zen of giving Dharma Names where in he mentioned that this is an Indic tradition that probably pre-dates the historical Buddha.",
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"text": "Ref: http://hardcorezen.info/dharma-names/2733",
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"text": "Since the renunciates were renunciating family and householding, it is not surprising that they took on a new name, which makes it perfectly clear to the surrounding community that you don't plan to carry on the Jones family name by having kids, you aren't going to take advantage of the hereditary titles that go with the Jones family nor keep the Jones family estate.",
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"text": "If we're lucky someone familiar with the history of the early vinaya might know more about this, since the practice of Dharma names would have been promoted in the vinaya.",
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"text": "In India, during the time of the Buddha, the vast majority of monks and nuns didn't change their names.",
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"text": "Notable exceptions are Sariputta and Moggallana , whose original names were \"Upatissa\" and \"Kolita\" respectively.",
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"text": "It is not clear why the Buddha chose to call Upatissa by the fact that he was the son (putta) of Sari, or Kolita by the name of his village.",
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"text": "The Mahavagga calls them by these names before they met the Buddha, so it may have been that they took these names earlier.",
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"text": "Other examples that may also have been acquired earlier are Kundala-Kesi, Bakkula, etc.",
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"text": "Cases of adding a descriptive to the name are common, e.g. Kumara Kassapa, Lakuṇṭaka-bhaddiya, etc.",
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"text": "One case stands out, that of Angulimala, who actually had his name changed by the king: Then the king's fear, his terror, his hair-standing-on-end subsided.",
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"text": "He went over to Ven.",
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"text": "Angulimala and said, \"Are you really Angulimala, lord?\"",
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"text": "\"",
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"text": "Yes, great king.",
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"text": "\"",
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"text": "\"What is your father's clan?",
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"text": "What is your mother's clan?\"",
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"text": "\"My father is a Gagga, great king, and my mother a Mantani.\"",
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"text": "\"Then may Master Gagga Mantaniputta delight [in staying here].",
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"text": "I will be responsible for your robes, almsfood, lodgings, & medicinal requisites for curing illness.\"",
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"text": "http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/mn/mn.086.than.html Apart from all this, the biggest reason for later name changes is simply because names in other languages don't work for the Pali recitation required for ordination, e.g.: ayaṃ Noaho āyasmato",
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"text": "Tongassa upasampadāpekkho doesn't really work, so giving monks Pali names is considered appropriate: ayaṃ yuttadhammo āyasmato sirimaṅgalassa upasampadāpekkho",
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"text": "It seems that early on there was a tradition of naming monks after arahant disciples of the Buddha, so we get various Moggallanas and Sariputtas throughout the ages.",
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"text": "In modern times, there seems to be some greater variation in the practice, and choosing a name for a monk has taken on significance that pretty clearly wasn't there in the time of the Buddha.",
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"text": "My name, for example, is chosen because I was born on a Wednesday - in fact",
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"text": ", I was given the wrong name, because one monk thought that me being born in the morning in Canada meant that he should give me a Wednesday night name (it having been night in Thailand when I was born).",
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"text": "In the end, What's in a name?",
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"text": "That which we call a rose By any other name would smell as sweet;",
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"text": "So Romeo would, were he not Romeo call'd, Retain that dear perfection which he owes Without that title.",
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"text": "-- William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet",
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"text": "I think this relates to the fact you are starting a new life when you get ordained.",
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"text": "This does not seem to be the case in the Buddha's time but more of a later development.",
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"text": "The name changing practice refer here",
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"text": "is more perticulaly in referece the practice in Sri Lanka where a monk takes the name of the village or area he is from followed by a new name he would be addressed by.",
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"text": "It’s worth remembering here that general naming practices in different Asian cultures often differ from our own.",
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"text": "In traditional Thailand (before 1935 or so), government officials received a new name when they took up a new rank in the hierarchy, besides the actual rank title.",
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"text": "For example, there is a scholar of Thai culture who is now known as Phraya Anuman Rajadhon (1888-1969).",
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"text": "Phraya was his official title, the rest is the name he took when he received the title.",
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"text": "(His descendants use A-R as their family name.)",
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"text": "Earlier in his life, he had other names: since his family was Chinese, he was born Li Kuang-jung, and in Thai he was known as Yong Sathienkoset.",
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"text": "When people have multiple names like this, each used in a different context or life phase, another name taken when ordaining would seem perfectly natural.",
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"text": "Note also: in Thailand today, parents seeking a name for a new child will often go to a monk for suggestions.",
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"text": "And a person who wants change his or her given name for luck or some other personal reason will also usually consult a monk.",
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"text": "It may be that this is “not Buddhist,” but anyway it’s common practice.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I practice with the Triratna Buddhists .",
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"text": "For us the renaming of a person symbolises spiritual death",
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"text": "e.g",
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"text": "the passing away from an old life/way of existence.",
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"text": "Fortunately this is followed by spiritual rebirth or it would be all a bit bleak.",
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"text": "The full process (system of meditation) is Integration Positive Emotion Spiritual Death (new name) Spiritual Rebirth Just responding to @MatthewMartin.",
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"text": "Though it isn't a Buddhist order as such - the Insight Meditation Society doesn't rename as far as I'm aware.",
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"text": "Jack Kornfield is still Jack Kornfield irrespective of his commitment and progress on the path (both formidable I'm sure)",
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] | {
"question": "In the Theravada tradition, and perhaps others, monastics take a new name when becoming bhikkhus/bhikkhunis. Where does this tradition come from, and what is its significance? Others don't - what's the difference?",
"title": "Why do monastics in certain Buddhist traditions take new names?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<theravada><mahayana><traditions>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/1562",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/89/FullPeace.org"
} | 30_10 | [
[
"S0: The practice of monks getting a Dharma name upon ordination is very old and widespread. I think this relates to the fact you are starting a new life when you get ordained. However, in India, during the time of the Buddha, the vast majority of monks and nuns didn't change their names. In modern times, there seems to be some greater variation in the practice, and choosing a name for a monk has taken on significance that pretty clearly wasn't there in the time of the Buddha. Apart from all this, the biggest reason for later name changes is simply because names in other languages don't work for the Pali recitation required for ordination, e.g.: ayaṃ Noaho āyasmato.",
"An old and widespread tradition, the practice of changing names often symbolises a movement away from an old life or way of existence. This is sometimes referred to as a spiritual death or new life. In India, during the time of the Buddha, the vast majority of monks and nuns didn't change their names. It seems that early on there was a tradition of naming monks after disciples of the Buddha, with various Moggallanas and Sariputtas throughout the ages. This practice has changed in modern times and the significance of changing a name for a monk is not the same as it was in the time of the Buddha. For example, in Sri Lanka, a monk may take the name of his home village, followed by a new name by which he would be addressed. Names may also have been changed for regional linguistic reasons, because some names did not work in other languages."
]
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[
"An old and widespread tradition, the practice of changing names often symbolises a movement away from an old life or way of existence. This is sometimes referred to as a spiritual death or new life.",
"In India, during the time of the Buddha, the vast majority of monks and nuns didn't change their names. It seems that early on there was a tradition of naming monks after disciples of the Buddha, with various Moggallanas and Sariputtas throughout the ages. This practice has changed in modern times and the significance of changing a name for a monk is not the same as it was in the time of the Buddha. For example, in Sri Lanka, a monk may take the name of his home village, followed by a new name by which he would be addressed.",
"Names may have been changed because some names did not work in other languages."
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"sents": [
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"text": "It's said that enlightened person feels single pain (only physical), while not enlightened feels two pains (physical with mental pain).",
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"text": "SN 36.6",
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"text": ", Sallatha Sutta: The discerning person, learned, doesn't sense a (mental) feeling of pleasure or pain: This is the difference in skillfulness between the sage & the person run-of-the-mill.",
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"text": "An enlightened person feels the sensation corresponding to pain, but it does not feel as pain, rather as pure (informational) sensation.",
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"text": "My teacher taught me an exercise thanks to which I had this experience first-hand.",
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"text": "It is called kuem chok in Korean (I'm probably misspelling it badly).",
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"text": "kuem chok is performed by taking one of especially designed postures,",
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"text": "\"eagle posture\" or \"sleeping tiger\" and others, which are inconvenient enough to generate bodily pain, but simple enough to maintain for a long time.",
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"text": "The idea is to \"go through\" pain by exercising willpower, by not succumbing to the feeling of self-pity, until the experience of pain toggles and becomes something else.",
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"text": "After I was holding my posture for about 15 minutes, and had all my body shaking with pain, the sensation toggled, and instead of pain I felt heat and lightness.",
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"text": "I could effortlessly maintain the posture and was surprised it felt difficult to me in the beginning.",
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"text": "This only happened once, and now the teacher moved on to a more difficult posture, \"sleeping tiger\", with which I was not able to switch yet.",
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"text": "Needless to say, if I were you I would not try this at home without a guidance from qualified teacher, otherwise you may hurt yourself.",
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"text": "I am not referencing any suttas for this answer, it comes from my own experiences (I am not an arahat).",
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"text": "One who has obtained nirvana can choose whether or not to experience pain and can choose the level of suffering that is associated with that pleasure or pain.",
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"text": "Having obtained nirvana an individual has the ability to reside beyond pleasure and pain and it also gives them complete understanding of pleasure and pain and things can not be understood without being experienced.",
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"text": "After some research, Sakalika Sutta: The Stone Sliver talks about how buddha cut his foot and endured the physical pain.",
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"text": "Excruciating were the bodily feelings that developed within him — painful, fierce, sharp, wracking, repellent, disagreeable — but he endured them mindful, alert, & unperturbed.",
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"text": "Although an Arahat would not have any mental pain arising with physical pain, that doesn't mean that everything would be just fine.",
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"text": "Arahats could still find it burdensome, for example, in that it is constantly pulling on their attention",
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"text": "and they wouldn't be able to do much as a result, so pain could still be quite debilitating in that the Arahat wouldn't be able to function by teaching, traveling, or other such things.",
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"text": "Of course enlightened people experience pain!",
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"text": "Even the Buddha did.",
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"text": "For example, in the Maha-parinibbbana Sutta, it is said of the Buddha: When he had eaten Cunda's food, I heard, With fortitude the deadly pains he bore.",
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"text": "From the sukara-maddava a sore",
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"text": "And dreadful sickness came upon the Lord.",
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"text": "But nature's pangs he endured. \"",
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"text": "Come, let us go To Kusinara,\" was his dauntless word.",
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"text": "There is some evidence (and the exact source is escaping me now) that he was only free of physical discomfort when he entered into the base of cessation (i.e. nirodhasamāpatti).",
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"text": "The Buddha even had to deal with a bad back on occasion (as in MN 53).",
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"text": "Of course, the experience of physical pain in not equal to the suffering of physical pain.",
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"text": "While techniques do exist to deal with physical discomfort,",
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"text": "only enlightenment liberates you from the anguish it causes.",
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"question": "In other words, by not conceptualizing sensations of physical pain, do fully enlightened people still experience unpleasantness and simply not label it as such, or is the experience fundamentally without anything that an unenlightened mind would label as unpleasant, so that the degree of pain becomes like pitch in music?",
"title": "Is there any extreme of physical pain that a fully enlightened person would find unpleasant on any level?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<enlightenment><nirvana><samsara>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/1646",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/320/rainbow_light"
} | 30_11 | [
[
"It's said that enlightened person feels single pain (only physical), while not enlightened feels two pains (physical with mental pain). Sallatha Sutta: The discerning person, learned, doesn't sense a (mental) feeling of pleasure or pain: This is the difference in skillfulness between the sage & the person run-of-the-mill. Having obtained nirvana an individual has the ability to reside beyond pleasure and pain and it also gives them complete understanding of pleasure and pain and things can not be understood without being experienced. Of course, the experience of physical pain in not equal to the suffering of physical pain. ",
"There is a distinction between physical and mental pain. It is said that the enlightened only feel physical pain, whereas the non-enlightened feel both physical and mental pain. Some say that the enlightened feel the sensation corresponding to pain, but an informational sensation, and can choose the degree of suffering associated with that sensation. Although the mental pain would not be felt, there would still be a burden on the person experiencing the sensation. However, some say that of course enlightened people feel pain! Even Buddha even had to deal with a bad back at times."
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"There is a distinction between physical and mental pain. It is said that the enlightened only feel physical pain, whereas the non-enlightened feel both physical and mental pain. Some say that the enlightened feel the sensation corresponding to pain, but an informational sensation, and can choose the degree of suffering associated with that sensation.",
"Although the mental pain would not be felt, there would still be a burden on the person experiencing the sensation.",
"Of course enlightened people feel pain!",
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"text": "I found several interesting Wiki pages: This one gives a basic idea about the growth as a comparison between 1910 and 2010.",
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"text": "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growth_of_religion",
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"text": "This is the List of religious population.",
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"text": "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_religious_populations",
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"text": "This one gives the population groth rates http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Population_growth_rate By briefly analysing all of the above",
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"text": ", I feel like Buddhism is decline according to the statistics.",
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"text": "Further found this article which gives a projections for the Next 200 Years : http://www.wnrf.org/cms/print_next200.shtml",
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"text": "According to it from 1900 to 2025 Buddhist world wide % changed ( and will be change) from 7.8% to 5.7%.",
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"text": "Although it sound like depressing, please think as a Buddhists this is quite expected and all align with Buddhist teaching.",
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"text": "Going forward, It is quite clear that world is not going be a better place than today.",
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"text": "As people moving more towards to materialism, consumerism they tends to distract from the reality.",
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"text": "So be mindful and practice the Dhamma.",
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"text": "According to the commentaries, Buddha Sasana will last 5000 years.",
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"text": "That means about another 2400+ years.",
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"text": "In the 1st millennium, there were Arahaths with special Jhanic powers.",
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"text": "In the 2nd millennium, there were Arahaths with no specials powers.",
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"text": "In the 3rd millennium, i.e. at present, it's said that there are only Anagami Sangha at most.",
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"text": "In the 4th millennium, there will be Sakadagami Sangha at most.",
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"text": "In the 5th, there will be Sothapanna Sangha at most.",
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"text": "At the end, monks won't even be wearing robes.",
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"text": "They will wear ordinary clothes and will just use a yellow string to indicate that they are monks.",
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"text": "In addition to the other answers, I believe there is a global decline in many major religions as you can see in this Google trends graph .",
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"text": "I would argue that especially in the western countries choice and interest of religion is subject to change, e.g., due to trends and/or major events.",
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"text": "Main aspect leading to Buddhist decline or growth as per",
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"text": "The Dharma-ending Age : the admission of women into the monastic community; the lack of respect toward various elements of the Buddhist tradition; the lack of diligence in meditation practice; carelessness in the transmission of the teachings; the emergence of divisions within the Sangha; the emergence of false or “counterfeit” Dharma; and excessive association with secular society.",
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"text": "Later texts also mention external causes of the religion’s decline of which there are two: the invasion of India by foreign, non-Buddhist powers; and excessive state control.",
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"text": "Out of these we already see many elements today.",
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"text": "So naturally Buddhism is in the decline.",
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"text": "The way to get over this decline can be as follows: Every Buddhist should operative the 4 frame of mindfulness diligently to attack 3",
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"text": "Should teach this diligently and sharing Dhamma realized empirically to attack 2 Should try to source as much from the Suttas strengthened though empirical understanding to attack 4 and 6 Be mindful of the Vinaya and how the Sangha is organised without trying to bring variations 5, 7 and 2 Look at the Dhamma as it is without a mixing personal or cultural beliefs to attack 2 and 7",
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"text": "In the modern age of world-wide education & science, all religions that have superstitious beliefs will inevitably fall into decline (statistically).",
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"text": "Asian cultural 'Buddhism' is no different to Western Christianity or Judaism.",
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"text": "Many Asian cultural Buddhists will stop believing in unknowable superstitious ideas (such as 'reincarnation-rebirth' & external 'heavens & hells') & thus reject (what they believe)",
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"text": "Buddhism (to be).",
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"text": "The Buddhist scriptures (such as MN 95 ) report the Buddha criticised religions that adhere to blind faith yet, since that time, Buddhism has become the same.",
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"text": "For example, today, there are famous teachers that will insist you cannot be a Buddhist if you do not believe in post-mortem-rebirth.",
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"text": "\"Master Gotama, with regard to the ancient hymns of the brahmans — passed down through oral transmission & included in their canon —",
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"text": "the brahmans have come to the definite conclusion that \"...this is true...",
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"text": "\" What does Master Gotama have to say to this?",
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"text": "\"",
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"text": "\"Tell me, Bharadvaja, is there among the brahmans even one brahman who says, '",
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"text": "This I know; this I see...this is true..'\" \"No, Master Gotama.\"",
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"text": "the Dhamma... is deep, hard to see, hard to realize, tranquil, refined, beyond the scope of conjecture, subtle, to-be-experienced by the wise..",
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"text": "I speculate Buddhism only historically grew as a cultural religion due to a change of emphasis towards 'rebirth-reincarnation' (which was also the primary reason why Buddhism became extinct in India due to it becoming undifferentiatable from Hinduism).",
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"text": "Therefore, it is inevitable cultural Buddhism declines for the same reason that it grew; in that it was never ever True Buddhism.",
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"text": "In conclusion, (in ordinary circumstances) the True Dhamma will not decline since those that comprehend Ultimate Knowable Truth do not change their convictions.",
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"text": "I don't have statistics for you",
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"text": "but I do want to point a few things out to give you hope against the dire (skillful means) predictions of a Dharma Ending Age: Statistics lie.",
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"text": "There must be a huge amount of \"unnanounced Buddhists\" who practice meditation with the quest for Awakening (freedom from suffering).",
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"text": "This to me qualifies as Buddhist, especially because some of these \"untracked\" people spend far more hours in the day practicing the essence of Buddhism than those affiliated to a softcore branch of Buddhism",
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"text": "..",
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"text": "I myself am one of those people who announces themselves as multiple religions/none.",
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"text": "Buddhism is more of a spiritual lifestyle than a '-ism'.",
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"text": "Therefore anyone of any religion can practice it in the cover of their communal Abrahamic (or otherwise) religion.",
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"text": "Buddhism can never die.",
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"text": "The quest for freedom and happiness will never end and due to the information age, the Buddhist teachings/suttas are forever preserved even if a major portion of humanity is decimated.",
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"text": "So long as you yourself are interested in Buddhism for its life-benefitting knowledge, you can be sure many others are, too.",
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"question": "I was listening to a podcast a while ago and it stated that Buddhism worldwide is in decline. I found that surprising. Is that true? Does anyone have any references or better still statistics to prove or disprove that.",
"title": "Is Buddhism in a worldwide decline?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<modern-world><demographics>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/1782",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/157/Crab Bucket"
} | 30_12 | [
[
"According to it from 1900 to 2025 Buddhist world wide % changed ( and will be change) from 7.8% to 5.7%. In the modern age of world-wide education & science, all religions that have superstitious beliefs will inevitably fall into decline (statistically). Many Asian cultural Buddhists will stop believing in unknowable superstitious ideas (such as 'reincarnation-rebirth' & external 'heavens & hells') & thus reject (what they believe). The invasion of India by non-Buddhist powers is also believed to have had an effect.",
"According to a study, the percentage of Buddhists worldwide will change from 7.8% in 1900 to 5.7% in 2025. Trends and major events in the Western world have an effect on religious practices. Religions with superstitions beliefs will inevitably decline as a result of world-wide education and science. External causes for this decline include the invasion of India by foreign, non-Buddhist powers and excessive state control. However, those that comprehend the Ultimate Knowable Truth will not change their convictions."
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"According to a study, the percentage of Buddhists worldwide will change from 7.8% in 1900 to 5.7% in 2025.",
"Trends and major events in the Western world have an effect on religious practices. Religions with superstitions beliefs will inevitably decline as a result of world-wide education and science. ",
"External causes for this decline include the invasion of India by foreign, non-Buddhist powers and excessive state control.",
"Those that comprehend the Ultimate Knowable Truth will not change their convictions."
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"text": "For Theravada sutta study is considered part of the overall practice.",
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"text": "It is an important part that goes along with practicing Sila and meditation.",
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"text": "So I'm not sure if it is considered \" a meditation\" but it is a large part of the practice which includes more than just meditation.",
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"text": "Across time and location meditation has been stressed over sutta knowledge, or sutta knowledge stressed over meditation, but there is one Sutta I am failing to find in which the Buddha basically shows that one who listens to dhamma(aka learns the suttas) and practices is one who is developed in dhamma.",
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"text": "\"And how is a monk one with a sense of Dhamma?",
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"text": "There is the case where a monk knows the Dhamma: dialogues, narratives of mixed prose and verse, explanations, verses, spontaneous exclamations, quotations, birth stories, amazing events, question & answer sessions.[1]",
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"text": "If he didn't know the Dhamma — dialogues, narratives of mixed prose and verse, explanations, verses, spontaneous exclamations, quotations, birth stories, amazing events, question & answer sessions — he wouldn't be said to be one with a sense of Dhamma.",
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"text": "So it's because he does know the Dhamma — dialogues... question & answer sessions — that he is said to be one with a sense of Dhamma.",
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"text": "This is one with a sense of Dhamma.",
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"text": "\"",
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"text": "When, on observing that the monk is purified with regard to qualities based on delusion, he places conviction in him.",
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"text": "With the arising of conviction, he visits him & grows close to him.",
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"text": "Growing close to him, he lends ear.",
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"text": "Lending ear, he hears the Dhamma.",
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"text": "Hearing the Dhamma, he remembers it.",
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"text": "Remembering it, he penetrates the meaning of those dhammas.",
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"text": "Penetrating the meaning, he comes to an agreement through pondering those dhammas.",
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"text": "There being an agreement through pondering those dhammas, desire arises.",
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"text": "With the arising of desire, he becomes willing.",
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"text": "Willing, he contemplates",
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"text": "[lit: \"weighs,\" \"compares\"].",
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"text": "Contemplating, he makes an exertion.",
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"text": "Exerting himself, he both realizes the ultimate meaning of the truth with his body and sees by penetrating it with discernment.",
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"text": "\"There are these five rewards in listening to the Dhamma.",
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"text": "Which five?",
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"text": "\"[1] One hears what one has not heard before.",
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"text": "[2]",
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"text": "One clarifies what one has heard before.",
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"text": "[3] One gets rid of doubt.",
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"text": "[4]",
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"text": "One's views are made straight.",
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"text": "[5]",
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"text": "One's mind grows serene.",
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"text": "\"These are the five rewards in listening to the Dhamma.\"",
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"text": "Contemplate sutras and you are doing vipassana meditation .",
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"text": "Vipassana meditation is the form of meditation Lord Buddha preaches we do.",
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"text": "Blindly reciting sutra's might lead to miccha ditti.",
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"text": "Nichiren .",
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"text": "Nichiren gongyo, or daily practice, involves changing the title of the Lotus Sutra, but also large chunks of the sutra itself.",
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"text": "Since it's usually chanted in Japanese, followers may not actually understand it.",
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"text": "So it works like a dharani, a mantra that you don't know the meaning (as opposed to mantras, which have some meaning that is clear, or at least clear after it's translated from the Sanskrit) Chinese .",
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"text": "Chinese monks chanted entire sutras.",
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"text": "A leader would hit a drum shaped like a wooden fish.",
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"text": "Nowadays this shows up in the service manuals of modern Chinese Buddhist organizations.",
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"text": "Here is a youtube vid where you can get a feel for the pace.",
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"text": "This guy confirms my idea that meditative sutra chanting isn't necessarily about reading comprehension: Some of the keys to retaining the conscious mind’s engagement with sutras is to recite them, rather than read them.",
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"text": "To recite them in your native language rather than the original language will also keep the mind engaged.",
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"text": "Some teachers, however, would argue that allowing the mind to become disengaged is the point.",
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"text": "As with mantra practice, repeated sutra recitation in Tibetan, Sanskrit or Pali, ultimately from memory, can allow the conscious mind to detach, one of the goals of mindfulness.",
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"text": "I couldn't find a reference, but I wouldn't be too surprised if the chanting came from the tradition of memorizing and reciting Pali suttas.",
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"text": "(Majursri's mantra, for example appears to be a mnemonic for remembering parts of a sutta)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "OK this is an answer based on personal experience of study of the White Lotus Sutra .",
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"text": "The sutra itself is highly repetitive and plays with concepts of time and space throughout.",
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"text": "Although there are parables (for instance the burning house ) throughout which can be easily seen as teaching points the suta as a whole seems to be something else.",
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"text": "I believe it is the sutra itself that is the practice and the boredom, aggrevation and frustration with it is part of that.",
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"text": "I felt it was more like a very long koan.",
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"text": "The point wasn't to understand it as such just to bear with it almost and see what comes up in your own experience.",
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"text": "I often hear people complain about Mayahana sutras as been too long, too mystical, too rarified, too religious maybe or just ridiculous.",
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"text": "But if the sutras as seen as a (meditation) practice rather than a guidebook that i think that goes a long way to understanding what they actually are and understanding how to work with them.",
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"text": "Just my experience as I say.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Vimutt’āyatana Sutta mentions what reciting and studding the Dhamma can lead to liberation.",
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"text": "When doing this you have to reflect what the Dhamma trying to experience of it.",
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"text": "Study of and recitation of the Dhamma will lead to joy and from joy to zest and from zest to tranquillity and from tranquillity to happiness and from happiness to concentration and from concentration to clear vision which leads to revulsion .",
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"text": "Dhamma vicaya should be present though out.",
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] | {
"question": "When studying the sutras should that be considered a form of meditation, if so what are the guidelines for sutra meditation?",
"title": "Sutra Study as Meditation?",
"forum": "buddhism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<theravada><mahayana><sutras><vajrayana><meditation-classification>",
"link": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/questions/1795",
"author": "buddhism.stackexchange.com/users/233/DharmaEater"
} | 30_13 | [
[
"It may not be considered \"a meditation\" but it is a large part of the practice which includes more than just meditation. However, if the sutras are seen as a (meditation) practice rather than a guidebook then that goes a long way to understanding what they actually are and understanding how to work with them. ",
"Studying the sutras may not be a meditation, but it is a larger part of the practice as a whole. If the sutras are considered to be a meditation practice rather than a guidebook, this might help with understanding them and how to work with them. Meditation may be stressed over sutra knowledge, and vice-versa, but teachings show that one who listens to dhamma (an learning the suttas) and practices is one who is developed in dhamma. Vipassana meditation involves contemplation of the sutras."
]
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"Studying the sutras may not be a meditation, but it is a larger part of the practice as a whole.",
"Meditation may be stressed over sutra knowledge, and vice-versa, but teachings show that one who listens to dhamma(aka learns the suttas) and practices is one who is developed in dhamma.",
"Contemplate sutras and you are doing Vipassana meditation.",
"If the sutras are considered to be a meditation practice rather than a guidebook, this might help with understanding them and how to work with them."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As we know Bhumi is considered as Mata according to scriptures. माता",
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"text": "भूमि:",
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"text": "पुत्रोऽहं पृथिव्या: (Atharva Veda 12.1.12) Also see this and this answer which discuss about location and praising of Bharat Varsha.",
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"text": "So, Bhumi of Bharata have significance in scriptures and can be considered or worshiped as Mata (Mother).",
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"text": "Now, talking about Bharat Mata, there is history of freedom movement and bit nationalism is connected with it.",
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"text": "Kiran Chandra Bandyopadhyay first coined the term \"Bharat Mata\" as the title of one play/drama in 1873.",
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"text": "In 1882 Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay's novel Anandamath introduced the hymn \"Vande Mataram\" which soon became the song of the emerging freedom movement in India.",
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"text": "In which he called Bharat Mata as Lord and equated her with goddess like Durga, Laxmi etc.",
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"text": "त्वं हि",
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"text": "दुर्गा दशप्रहरणधारिणी कमला कमलदल विहारिणी वाणी विद्यादायिनी, नमामि त्वाम् नमामि कमलां अमलां अतुलाम् सुजलां",
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"text": "सुफलां",
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"text": "मातरम्",
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{
"text": "॥ वन्दे मातरम्",
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"text": "In 1905, Abanindranath Tagore portrayed Bharat Mata as a four-armed Hindu goddess wearing saffron colored robes, holding a book, sheaves of rice, a mala, and a white cloth.",
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"text": "In 1936, a Bharat Mata temple was built in Benaras by Shiv Prashad Gupt and was inaugurated by Mohandas Gandhi.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "Two another temples at Haridwar in 1983 and at Kolkata in 2015 are founded.",
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"text": "In the Kolkata temple, Bharat Mata is portrayed through the image of Jagattarini Durga.",
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"text": "So, Bharat Mata is not goddess described in scriptures but the consideration of Bharat Bhumi as Mata i.e Bharat Mata is portrayed looking like goddess.",
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{
"text": "Thus, the practice of worshiping Bhumi as Mata is in accordance with scripture whereas consideration of Bharat Mata as goddess Durga is feigned (the word choice may be not appropriate).",
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"text": "Reference for historical points: Vivekananda Kendra .",
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"text": "For further information you may refer articles from",
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"text": "TheInidanExpress or from",
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"text": "The Hindu .",
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{
"text": "Btw, I also found one Sanskrit Shubhasita praising Bharat Mata!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "We all know there is no such lady like Bharat Mata.",
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"text": "It is just the creativity of an artist.",
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"text": "I can show you many examples on the Internet, where Bharat Mata stand with Bhagwa flag .",
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"text": "Seems clear eye creativity that shows a sign to be proud on our country and give respect to it as a Mother and visualize the importance of Tiranga Flag.",
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"text": "Goddess The Bharat mata is [primarily] goddess Durga .",
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"text": "However in general she is an amalgamation of various goddesses.",
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"text": "Bharat Matā",
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"text": "(Hindi, from Sanskrit Bhāratāmbā भारताम्बा; अम्बा ambā means 'mother') is the national personification of India as a mother goddess.",
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"text": "She is an amalgam of all the goddesses of Indian culture and more significantly of goddess Durga .",
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"text": "She is usually depicted as a woman clad in a saffron sari holding the Indian national flag, and sometimes accompanied by a lion...",
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"text": "The Tiranga flag was also started being included during this period.",
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{
"text": "In 1930s, the image entered in religious practice .",
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"text": "The Bharat Mata temple was built in Benaras in 1936 by Shiv Prashad Gupt and was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi. ...",
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{
"text": "The motto Bharat Mata ki",
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{
"text": "Jai (\"Victory for Mother India\") is used by the Indian Army.",
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{
"text": "[Wikipedia]",
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{
"text": "This is a rare combination of religion and nationalism ( a part of Dharma ).",
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"text": "Etymology",
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"text": "It was actually a painting work, which was named as \"Bharat Mata\".",
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"text": "Eventually it got transformed into a worshippable figure for indpendence movement of India.",
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"text": "The very early history of Bharat mata dates back to 1905 from a painting of Abanindranath Tagore :",
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"text": "Bharat Mata depicts a saffron clad woman, holding a book, sheaves of paddy, a piece of white cloth and a garland in her four hands.",
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"text": "The painting holds historical significance as it is one of the earliest visualizations of Bharat Mata , or \"Mother India.\" ...",
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"text": "The \"work\" was painted during the time of the swadeshi movmement.",
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"text": "The movement began as a response to the Partition of Bengal (1905) [source]",
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"text": "She is not a traditional Pauranic goddess.",
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"text": "So in the oldest of paintings, there was neither tricolor flag with her, nor was there any lion.",
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"text": "The flag started to appear around 1930's when the independence movement was at its peak as described in the above Wiki article.",
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"text": "Trivia",
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"text": "Here is what Sister Nivedita, a famous student of Vivekananda has to say: From beginning to end, the picture is an appeal, in the Indian language, to the Indian heart.",
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"text": "It is the first great masterpiece in a new style.",
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"text": "I would reprint- it, if I could, by tens of thousands, and scatter it broadcast over the land, till there was not a peasant's cottage, or a craftman's hut, between Kedar Nath and Cape Comorin, that had not this presentment of Bharat-Mata somewhere on its walls.",
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"text": "Over and over again, as one looks into its qualities, one is struck by the purity and delicacy of the personality portrayed.",
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"text": "[Complete works of Sister Nivedita]",
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"text": "Bharat mata is a personification of the nation that is India.",
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"text": "No mythological records exist in the Puranas or Itihasas .",
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"text": "It was created by the nationalist leaders to inspire the national movement during the late 1890s.",
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"text": "And as for the flag, the Indian Tricolor is a modified version of the pre-1947 official flag of the Indian National Congress.",
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"text": "Originally the flag that Bharat mata was portrayed to hold, was the INC flag.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Bharat Mata is the presiding goddess of Indian Sub continent.",
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"text": "She is known as Bharti which is another name of Saraswati.",
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"text": "Indian people worshipped Saraswati in form of River and land since ancient times.",
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"text": "On holding tricolour.",
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"text": "It is a later variation of Goddess.",
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"text": "Bankim Chandra Chatterjee says that Durga, Kali and Jaggadhatri are different forms of Maa Bharati or Bharat Mata.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The Indian Culture could easily identify the Country with the Mother Goddess, because, we had in Sri Sri Chandi(chapter 11, mantra 4).",
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"text": "aadhaarabhutaa jagatas tvamekaamahisvarupena yatah stitaasi O Divine Mother!",
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"text": "You are the resort of all as you are present in form of land.",
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"text": "We also had in our culture janani janmabhumish cha svargaad api gariyasiMother and",
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"text": "Motherland are more glorious than heaven.",
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"text": "So Bharat-Mata was seen as a form of the Mother Goddess.",
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"text": "The Indian Tri-colour flag was introduced after independence I think.",
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"question": "What is the story of Bharat Mata? What's her connection with the Indian national flag?",
"title": "Who is the goddess depicted as \"Bharat Mata\" & why is she having Indian tricolor flag?",
"forum": "hinduism.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<history><culture><goddess><india>",
"link": "hinduism.stackexchange.com/questions/28670",
"author": "hinduism.stackexchange.com/users/14986/Udhav Sarvaiya"
} | 31_33 | [
[
"Bharat Mata is primarily the goddess Durga, however she is an amalgam of all the goddesses of the Indian culture. She is a personification of the nation of India. She is usually depicted as a woman clad in a saffron sari holding the Indian national flag, and sometimes accompanied by a lion. Eventually it got transformed into a worshippable figure for indpendence movement of India.",
"It started as a painting, portraying a four-armed goddess. She is often portrayed as holding the Indian national flag and sometimes accompanied by a lion. It eventually became a figure of worship for the Indian independence movement. Bharat Mata is primarily seen as an amalgam of all goddesses in Indian culture, and in particular of Durga. She is seen as a form of Mother Goddess. The Bharat Mata temple was built in Benaras in 1936 by Shiv Prashad Gupt and was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi. ..."
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"Bharat Mata is primarily seen as an amalgam of all goddesses in Indian culture, and in particular of Durga. She is seen as a form of Mother Goddess.",
"The Bharat Mata temple was built in Benaras in 1936 by Shiv Prashad Gupt and was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi. ...",
"It started as a painting, portraying a four-armed goddess. She is often portrayed as holding the Indian national flag and sometimes accompanied by a lion. It eventually became a figure of worship for the Indian independence movement."
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"text": "Does breaking a bandsaw blade indicate something such as too much/too little tension?",
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"text": "It can",
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"text": "but it could simply be from material fatigue or a poor weld.",
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"text": "So anyway, blades break or go dull, what then ?",
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"text": "This is the interesting question for me since in the past worn bandsaw blades were routinely re-sharpened but like a lot of similar changes over time this is seen much less frequently today.",
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"text": "Many woodworkers aren't even aware resharpening is a possibility.",
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"text": "And even breaks are repairable (and easily, the work takes just minutes in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing).",
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"text": "Part of the reason for this type of thing is the lower cost of 'consumables' which makes repair \"not economically viable\" as they say in the industry.",
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"text": "But doing maintenance or repair yourself sidesteps that reality.",
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"text": "However, since a lot of woodworkers don't have welding equipment or the experience to re-weld a critical area like this",
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"text": "you are still left with a broken blade, but that doesn't mean it has reached the end of its life and should go straight for recycling.",
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"text": "A common use for broken bandsaw blades in the past was as stock for bowsaw blades and this is still perfectly viable.",
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"text": "And making the bowsaw frame is a great woodshop project in itself.",
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"text": "That is just the tip of the recycling iceberg.",
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"text": "Other potential uses include: shim material scroll saw blades scraper blades scratch stock cutters Just one broken blade could provide nearly a lifetime's worth of any of the above.",
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"text": "Blades fatigue over time because of the bending around the tires.",
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"text": "They will eventually break due to this.",
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"text": "Always inspect blades for stress cracks which usually appear in the gullets, before welding.",
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"text": "If a blade is found to have stress cracks, then its time for a new one.",
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"text": "I sold saw blades for a living to manufacturers, so I know a little.",
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"text": "If used absolutely correctly, the blade should wear out (dull) and not break.",
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"text": "In the Real World, we seldom see any absolutes.",
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"text": "RE repairing (welding)",
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"text": "blades; I've seen quite a few (industrial-size) bandsaws which had welders built right in; break a blade, count your fingers, trim the ends and weld them without removing the blade.",
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"text": "There are always compromises to be made to have a general, all-around BS blade.",
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"text": "Seldom is a wood cutting blade useable on metal, although metal-cutting blades can cut wood without too many problems.",
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"text": "But unless you're in a production environment (cutting the same thing, mechanically fed, changed before too dull or else they overheat & break)",
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"text": "you have to get the finest TPI, pitch, and set you can stand to use on the biggest thing you'll cut (sort of prepare-for-the-worst situation).",
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"text": "Good question.",
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"text": "Every bandsaw blade I've gotten rid of has also been because it broke.",
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"text": "While this can be an indication that there is incorrect tension on the blade, it also just happens from use.",
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"text": "If it snaps pretty early, likely the tension was wrong or you did something dumb.",
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"text": "(I broke one because I turned a piece to sharply).",
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"text": "Wider blades are more likely to get dull before snapping, and some of them can be respharpened, though for most band saws it is likely cheaper to buy a new one.",
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"text": "Some high quality blades can certainly be worth the sharpening.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Yes, the teeth become dull.",
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"text": "In my youth, there were shops that would take your blades and resharpen bandsaw blades and table saw blades for a small fee.",
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"text": "Too much tension, or too much lateral movement can cause problems in my experience.",
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"text": "Back in the day, sometimes the new blade would break at the weld, but I have not see this in a long while.",
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"text": "(If you cut wood then metal and then wood again with the same blade, it is easy to 'feel' the difference due to the duller blade.)",
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"text": "Also see http://www.bandsawblade.com/chart.htm Dulling may be symptom of other tuning issues.",
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"text": "http://vermontamerican.com/article/ultimate-guide-band-saw-blades-break-troubleshooting/",
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"text": "My rule of thumb (still got both of mine, knock on wood) is... when the blade gets rewelded about the fourth time, it's probably not going to get welded again; by that time, the back has grown too brittle",
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"text": "and it's probably lost some teeth.",
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"text": "Until that point, reweld & resharpen.",
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"text": "I've never had a blade breakage that I could trace back to overtensioning, although I'm always just a bit tender with tensioning anyway",
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"text": "- my first bandsaw had a honeycombed cast-aluminum body, and \"proper\" tension was spooky with it",
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"text": "- it felt like the saw's body might give way at any time.",
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"text": "That was an illusion, of course, but it taught me not to overtension.",
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"text": "Lots of bandsaw blades (TimberWolf springs to mind) want very little tension - only enough to prevent the blade from fluttering.",
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] | {
"question": "I suppose there are two alternatives for the death of a bandsaw blade: The blade breaks. The teeth get noticeably dull and the blade is discarded. I have never experienced scenario #2 but I've broken a few blades on my bandsaw. Is this the normal way for them to go? Does breaking a bandsaw blade indicate something such as too much/too little tension?",
"title": "What is the normal end-of-life for a bandsaw blade?",
"forum": "woodworking.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<band-saw>",
"link": "woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1641",
"author": "woodworking.stackexchange.com/users/81/saltface"
} | 32_0 | [
[
" The death of a bandsaw blade is usually the result of too much tension, or too much lateral movement can cause problems in my experience.",
" If the blade snaps early, it is possible the tension was wrong or there was too much lateral movement."
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" If the blade snaps early, it is possible the tension was wrong or there was too much lateral movement."
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"text": "As everything teaching \"device\" (and there is a lot of academic literature studying this, across disciplines, this is not specific to bowed string instruments), fingerboard tapes or any kind of marks on or on the side of the fingerboard should not : be used systematically without observation phase",
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"text": "be permanent be used alone without having an exit strategy (see point 2.) be used as a way not to address underlying difficulties and fears of the pupil be used as some parents use a pacifier (see also point 4.)",
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"text": "given just to spend your time on what you like to teach instead of what needs to be done for the pupil (related to point 5.).",
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"text": "All these points are related, I will try to elaborate further later.",
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"text": "Other less common devices posing the same problems include special bow guiding devices, simplified or heavily modified music notations.",
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"text": "I use fingerboard tapes for beginning students, but only 4 of them.",
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"text": "I would not recommend using those pre-fab stickers that have placement lines for all the whole steps and half steps in first position.",
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"text": "This is overkill in my opinion and can create over-dependency, or actually be more confusing than necessary.",
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"text": "If you're teaching beginning children most likely they will need some finger guide to help train their ear.",
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"text": "As soon as they can hear where the fingers go then take the tapes off (when they move up to a new size instrument is a good time to assess their new tape needs!)",
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"text": "If you're teaching beginning adults it will depend on the experience of the adult.",
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"text": "If they have a good ear they may not need any tapes at all.",
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"text": "If they have trouble finding where to place the hand, but then are fine after that perhaps use just a first finger tape.",
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"text": "Using all 4 of the finger placement tapes in first position is also fine if they need it.",
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"text": "Again, just keep on top of when they don't need the tapes anymore",
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"text": "so they don't become to reliant on them as a crutch.",
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"text": "We're always looking to use the tapes as a tool to train the ear, not as an excuse to not have them listen closely and adjust their fingers by what they hear.",
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"text": "It is helpful to some, but sometimes can create dependency.",
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"text": "I have been playing the violin for a year and a half, and I sometimes take off a few tapes, just a few weeks after mastering a piece, just to see how it goes, and I can do pretty well without them.",
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"text": "I have been using them less and using my ears for intonation.",
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"text": "Though, they are important at the beginning, as it is hard to understand where the fingers go.",
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"text": "Tapes can be used as a good reference point for some positions, but it is different and may vary in people.",
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"text": "I know people who can play without tapes at the beginning, and some who struggle without them.",
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"text": "My teacher used a pencil to lightly draw a line on the board.",
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"text": "That way I got the benefit of seeing where I should place my fingers, and learning to hear where I should put them without learning to be dependant on them.",
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"text": "I personally never used fingerboard markers when I learned violin as a child.",
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"text": "However I see that here in US, most beginners use them.",
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"text": "I think they are helpful especially for the young child until they learn how to listen and hear the pitch, especially if they have not played piano before playing violin.",
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"text": "I would however remove them when the student gets better at identifying the correct pitch.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "As a tech, it makes it very hard to have a properly set up violin, especially as most cheaper violins come with higher tension and lower fingerboard clearance steel strings.",
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"text": "To set these up to work, I would be replacing or shimming the nut, replacing the bridge, and setting up the instrument above height to accommodate for these ridges that are now added.",
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"text": "Even the appliqués require an increase in spec height by the thickness of the appliqué on both the nut and bridge.",
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"text": "Then again, most of the time, it's someone who has applied 2 layers of tape, effectively making frets...",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I’m 41 and have been learning for just over a year.",
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"text": "I’ve taken off my tapes but found that over time my finger placement starts to become less accurate.",
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"text": "I can hear the difference but struggle to pinpoint where I need to place my fingers.",
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"text": "I put a black tape at 1st and 3rd positions and that seems to do the trick for me.",
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"text": "I’d rather spend the time learning a new piece than trying to get the intonation without tapes.",
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"text": "I don’t plan on playing professionally",
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"text": "but I’d like to eventually play without them, but for now, the tapes are staying.",
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] | {
"question": "Some teachers use them and some don't. I've heard that they can become a crutch and cause delayed ear training development, but others say they are necessary at the beginning. Can they really cause problems? Has this been studied in any kind of way? Has it been addressed by a respected author? Should they just be used because they make life easier? Thanks,",
"title": "Should fingerboard tapes be used for beginner violinists ?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<violin><teaching>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/111",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/109/Lilitu88"
} | 32_8 | [
[
"Fingerboard tapes are needed for children learning violin. For beginner adults, it depends on their experience. If they have a good ear, they may not need tapes. They are important at the beginning, as it is hard to understand where the fingers go. As soon as they can hear where the fingers go then take the tapes off (when they move up to a new size instrument is a good time to assess their new tape needs!) ",
"Finger tapes can be useful for beginner violin players, especially children For adults it will depend on their experience and their musical ear. They can cause dependency, so should be removed when they can itentify the pitch."
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"Finger tapes can be useful for beginner violin players, especially children For adults it will depend on their experience and their musical ear. ",
"Finger tapes can cause dependency, so should be removed when they can itentify the pitch."
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"sents": [
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"text": "An exercise that I was taught, have seen many times, and also have used with others.",
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"text": "It can be done anywhere.",
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"text": "Instead of tapping my fingers, I do this exercise.",
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"text": "Place your hand on the table (or whatever surface) as though you were resting your fingers on the keys.",
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"text": "\"Play\" the sequence 1-3-5-2-4, repeating it over and over. Things to work on are your rhythm, make sure that each \"note\" you play is even.",
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"text": "(For instance, 1-3--2 are more dominant fingers, but make sure ---2-4 are doing their share of the work!)",
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"text": "Work on being able to keep that up for several minutes, keeping the 1-3-5-2-4 progression intact.",
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"text": "I find myself lapsing into 1-3-5-43-5-1 or something equally funky if I'm not careful.",
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"text": "The temptation here is to do this with your dominant hand, but make sure you also do it with the other hand.",
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"text": "The tempo will be much (much, much, much...for me) slower, so spend more timing working with that hand.",
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"text": "This should also be done with both hands, keeping each note in sync.",
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"text": "For me, it usually ends in disaster.",
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{
"text": "(:",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I used to do all kinds of things, including most of the things everyone here has mentioned.",
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"text": "However, I found that I got the most benefit from doing these things: Do nothing.",
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"text": "Rest.",
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"text": "Don't do anything strenuous with your arms, wrists, and fingers.",
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"text": "If you spend your time effectively at the piano, that's all the physical workout you need.",
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"text": "Most of piano playing is mental, not physical.",
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"text": "These are very fine muscles that you're trying to develop and calibrate, and you would be surprised how much rest (physical and mental) you need away from the keyboard.",
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"text": "Rest all five fingers on a surface, in playing position, and then lift up and down the fourth finger in a very relaxed and isolated way.",
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"text": "The goal is to increase the height of the lift as much as possible, while keeping the other fingers so relaxed that they don't move.",
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"text": "As #2, rest all five fingers on a flat surface, let the weight of the arm be anchored at the fingertips, and then shift that weight from finger to finger, all without lifting the fingers from the surface.",
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"text": "Great exercise to remind yourself how relaxed your arm should be, and how much weight should be felt at the fingertips.",
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"text": "Similarly, do pull ups with your finger, while completely relaxing everything else.",
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"text": "Seated at a table, hook your finger on the table's edge, relax the arm completely, then firm up the hook little by little, and pull up the weight of your arm.",
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"text": "If done right, your neighbor should be able to push your elbow, and your arm should just dangle back and forth on its own.",
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"text": "This is much harder than you think, but helps to reinforce #2 and #3.",
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"text": "Notice that all of the above has to do with relaxing.",
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"text": "Although this may not be the answer you were expecting, consider whether the end result you're looking for (finger strength and dexterity) isn't best achieved by eliminating the natural tension in your playing.",
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"text": "This is the case for even the most advanced players, and you'd be amazed at how much progress can be made with so little work.",
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"text": "So many people, even professionals, forget that there are two parts to practicing – the actual physical and mental practice at the keyboard, and the time away to rest and mentally process what you've done at the keyboard.",
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"text": "One doesn't work without the other.",
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"text": "Book+video: Seymore Fink ,",
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"text": "Mastering Piano Technique ( search )",
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"text": "It has good full arm exercises, to practise both with and away from the piano.",
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"text": "The idea is to work out the muscles involved in playing piano - from shoulder to finger tips, and groove the patterns involved in playing, like the circular motion while playing an arpeggio.",
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"text": "I have used the various table-exercises mentioned above.",
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"text": "I suggest getting the Hanon The Virtuoso Pianist in Exercises and the Schmitt book on exercises.",
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"text": "These will give you plenty of patterns to choose from as well as some good stuff do while at the piano.",
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"text": "Now keep in mind that it is more fatiguing to play on a hard surface such as a table, and with fatigue you can get muscle stiffness.",
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"text": "Having said this, you'll find that if you do the above exercises carefully and with relaxed arms and hands while at the piano, for maybe 20 minutes per day, there's no need to do table playing unless you're going to be away from the piano for quite some length of time.",
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"text": "Keep in mind",
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"text": "what you are really strengthening are the tendons as there are no \"muscles\" in the fingers.",
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"text": "All the work is really done in your forearms and biceps and the tendons are pulled over your elbows by your finger movements.",
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"text": "There are many exercises you can do when not actually playing the piano.",
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"text": "one of my favorites is tapping my fingers on a desk in different rhythms.",
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"text": "Personally I like playing with both hands doing the same thing, but that is just personal preference.",
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"text": "I like with the right hand 1-3-5-4-3-4-3-2 on the right hand, which is 5-3-1-2-3-2-3-4 on the left hand.",
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"text": "Any organised program of mental practice can be very beneficial.",
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"text": "See Malva S Freymuth's Mental Practice and Imagery for Musicians.",
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"text": "See Greg Irvin's \"Finger Fitness\" on \"youtube\".",
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"sents": [
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"text": "my contribution to this effect is to continually pratice your 12345123 for the right and the left 54321321",
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"question": "Are there any finger exercises I can perform even when I am not near a piano to improve my dexterity and strength of my fingers?",
"title": "Finger Exercises for Piano when not playing",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><exercises>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/130",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/128/iddober"
} | 32_9 | [
[
"Rest all five fingers on a surface, in playing position, and then lift up and down the fourth finger in a very relaxed and isolated way. Alternatively, seated at a table, hook your finger on the table's edge, relax the arm completely, then firm up the hook little by little, and pull up the weight of your arm. Another trick is tapping fingers on the desk in different rhythms. Finally, rest all five fingers on a flat surface, let the weight of the arm be anchored at the fingertips, and then shift that weight from finger to finger, all without lifting the fingers from the surface.",
"Here are some finger excercises for when you are not playing the piano. Taping rhythms onto a desk with your fingers. Using resistance against the edge of a table with your little fingers. Weight shifts between fingers and isolating finger movements "
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"Finger exercises taping rhythms on a desk",
"Fingers exercises using resistance against the edge of a table, weight shifts between fingers and moving the fourth finger up and down in isolation from the other fingers. "
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "You can try to soften the spine by opening it in various locations and flexing the book gently.",
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"text": "(Here's a nice version of the procedure , with diagrams, even; and here's another , similar graphic, this one from a bookbinder.)",
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"text": "If that doesn't work, you can get a piece of clear plastic and leave it over the pages; not an ideal solution, but it will let you use the book.",
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"text": "In the end, don't be too concerned with keeping the book in mint condition, unless this is a valuable or rare volume.",
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"text": "Break the spine if need be; you can always repair the book later, or hold it together with a rubber band.",
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"text": "A book of scores is of no use if you can't use it.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A great longterm fix that I've found for this issue is to just take the score to a kinko's or other copy center and have them replace the binding with a spiral binding.",
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"text": "This way, the book can stay open on any page and you don't have to worry about the binding breaking.",
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"text": "The only thing to watch out for is to make sure you don't lose any of the music when you have them change the binding over.",
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"text": "But other than that, it's a great $5 investment!",
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"text": "Book spines are intended to keep the book in its closed shape.",
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"text": "As they age and are repeatedly opened, they start to stay open because the spine gets damaged.",
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"text": "If you're careful, bending and folding won't make it any worse than the \"natural\" damage over time.",
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"text": "Another option is to cut out the spine altogether.",
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"text": "You could punch holes in the margins and use a binder or something to keep everything together.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I use clothespins to keep the pages open. :D",
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"sents": [
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"text": "When I was growing up, my dad came up with a brilliant strategy for a stubborn binding: Bandsaw off the spine, then spiral-bind the whole book.",
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"text": "Voilà!",
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"text": "Well-behaved Mussorgsky.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The \"Standard Method\" for getting a book to stay open is to Place the spine firmly on a table.",
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"text": "open both covers and fold flat",
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"text": "(run your finger along the inside to help guide the fold on paperbacks) fold down each page in turn, alernating sides, until you get to the middle.",
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"text": "This way should leave the spine intact, but able to lay flat.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1344/luser droog",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "See my answer to another question Copy the sheet music to separate sheets and lay them out side by side.",
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"text": "If they don't fit, memorize the easy pages until you can discard them.",
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"text": "Eventually memorize the whole song and become more impressive to watch.",
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"text": "(this one can wait)",
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"text": "I know some people have a hard time with the memorize part, but I have gotten good at it",
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"text": "and I hate page flipping :)",
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] | {
"question": "With some score books, if you try to open it and put it on a support, it will close itself. For the moment I have to force and fold it but it damages the spine of the book. Do you have techniques to open those books without damaging them too much?",
"title": "How to handle a newly purchased score book that won't stay opened?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<sheet-music><books>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/188",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/141/Benoit"
} | 32_10 | [
[
"To soften a newly purchased score book you can try to soften the spine by opening it in various locations and flexing the book gently. Use clothespins to keep the pages open. Break the spine or have it replaced with spiral binding. ",
"To keep the pages of a new book open you can try softening the spine, but careful bending, or use pegs or a piece of plastic to keep the book open. Alternatively you could break the spine and spiral bind the book"
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"Soften the spine, by careful bending and folding. ",
"Keep the pages open but using clothes pins/pegs or a piece of plastic ",
"Break the spine and spiral bind the book"
]
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"sents": [
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"text": "Check out Theta Music Trainer .",
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"text": "Lots of games for ear training and music theory.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Technically, I think the vocals portion of Rock Band counts for this, as would its precursor SingStar.",
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"text": "If you've got a Mac and a familiar iTunes library, my friend made this game, almost as a joke.",
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"text": "(It plays back x number of tracks from your iTunes library simultaneously until you identify them...",
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"text": "it's called \" Counterpoint .\")",
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"text": "That could feasibly train your ear in an abstract sense, since you're essentially trying to pick out familiar musical snippets from a very dense soundscape.",
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"text": "Ooh, Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time had a game mechanic centered around playing back melodies on your N64 controller-turned-ocarina.",
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"text": "Ah, also Ambrosia Software's game Aquaria (also available on Steam) has a similar game mechanic that provides you with a diatonic scale from which melodies can be sung.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You might be interested in GNU Solfege .",
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"text": "It's not a game per se, but it has A LOT of exercises with visual and aural feedback.",
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"text": "It also records statistics about each one of your performances, so you can know how well you're learning and \"score\" yourself.",
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"text": "I've been using it for some weeks now, doing a few exercises each day",
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"text": "and I can say it is lot's of fun and very didactic as well, but your mileage may vary.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Looks like you received a bunch of great answers already, but I thought I'd add something to the list anyway.",
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"text": "Have you tried: TENUTO (App) -",
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"text": "It has a great set of Games/Tools for Ear Training and/or Sight Singing (VERY helpful, even if you never make a sound) http://www.musictheory.net/products/tenuto 8 NOTES",
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"text": "(Online/Free) -",
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"text": "The WebSite includes 10 games, some are GREAT and they're ALL free!",
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"text": "http://www.8notes.com/games/",
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"text": "I've never used it, but Sibelius has some ear-training software called Auralia which is supposed to build your ear up using training and games.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/175/BlueRaja - Danny Pflughoeft",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are simple ear-training games in Band-in-the-Box .",
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"text": "Those are quite simple, but even fun :)",
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"text": "The first is called Music replay game.",
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"text": "It has three modes:",
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"text": "note, rhythm and melody replays.",
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"text": "The computer plays note or phrase and you have to replay it using a computer keyboard or midi instrument.",
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"text": "You can set up a tempo and range of notes.",
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"text": "There is notation displayed too, so this can be a sight-reading game too.",
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"text": "Second is the Pitch Invasion - this game has the same controls and set-up possibilities as previous one.",
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"text": "There are flying saucers falling down and each of them projects a audible pitch.",
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"text": "By guessing it, you shoot the saucers down.",
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"text": "This game is great for children.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/874/Hubert Czerski",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There is the good old LOOM",
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"text": "This is an adventure game.",
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"text": "The game requires one to memorize spells in the form of short tunes of 4 notes.",
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"text": "To cast a spell one needs to play back the tune.",
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"text": "Depending on the difficulty level it is done solely by ear or with a written notation.",
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"text": "Some spells can be played backwards reversing the meaning.",
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"text": "Changing, for example, open to close .",
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"text": "Check EarMaster Pro 6 its not free",
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"text": "but we can have 7 days full trial version.",
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"score": 2
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] | {
"question": "There have been several popular music games in recent years, but they seem to be most useful for developing a sense of rhythm. Are there any games that are helpful as ear training exercises? What would you recommend?",
"title": "Are there any games useful for ear training?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<ear-training>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/209",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/136/Brian Slesinsky"
} | 32_11 | [
[
"Games for training the ear include Theta Music Trainer, GNU Solfege, TENUTO, Auralia software, LOOM, Earmaster Pro 6",
"Here are some suggestions for ear training. Theta Musica Trainer, Rock Band, SingStar, GNU Solfege, TENTUTO, Sibelius, Auralia, Band-in-the-Box, Loom or EarMaster Pro 6 "
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"Here are some suggestions for ear training. Theta Musica Trainer, Rock Band, SingStar, GNU Solfege, TENTUTO, Sibelius, Auralia, Band-in-the-Box, Loom or EarMaster Pro 6 "
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"text": "Logic Pro has built-in controls for using different temperaments.",
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"text": "Check out the link below: http://documentation.apple.com/en/logicpro/usermanual/index.html#chapter=43%26section=6%26tasks=true",
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"text": "It allows you to either select a pre-configured tuning system, or customize your own.",
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"text": "MAX/MSP is another solution, but if you don't have programming experience, using this as an option might be significantly more trouble than it's worth.",
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"text": "However, you could Here are some other links I found, but cannot personally vouch for: http://www.cycling74.com/forums/topic.php?id=7392",
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"text": "(If you have MAX, you could use this file to convert MIDI input to specific frequencies).",
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"text": "http://emusician.com/tutorials/emusic_playing_cracks/",
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"text": "(article describing various software programs suited for alternate tunings) http://www.justonic.com/",
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"text": "The MIDI program Timidity can be adjusted to any tuning you want , though it requires a little bit of work.",
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"text": "Update:",
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"text": "Timidity supports playing just intonation very easily: -Z file, --freq-table=file",
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"text": "Cause the table of frequencies to be read from file.",
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"text": "This is useful to define a tuning different from 12-equal temperament.",
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"text": "If ``pure'' is specified, TiMid‐ ity++ plays in trial pure intonation.",
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"text": "-Zpure[n(m)], --pure-intonation=[n(m)]",
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"text": "Play in trial pure intonation by Key Signature meta-event in the MIDI file.",
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"text": "You can specify the initial keysig by hand, in case the MIDI file does not contains the meta-event.",
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"text": "Optionally, n is the number of key signature.",
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"text": "In case of sharp, n is positive.",
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"text": "In case of flat, n is negative.",
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"text": "Valid values of n are in the interval from -7 to 7.",
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"text": "In case of minor mode, you should put `m' character along with -Zpure option.",
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"text": "To make your own, arbitrary tunings, see this .",
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"text": "Midi actually has a 20-year old ratified specification extension just for this.",
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"text": "Any synth that supports that extensions should support those temperaments (although you might need an appropriate midi interface too).",
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"text": "The wikipedia page for the extension page lists a number of soft-synths that support the extension.",
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"text": "Denemo (music score editor.",
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"text": "free.) supports a few temperaments.",
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"text": "Some Synth plugins (vsti...) lets you choose the temperament.",
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"text": "Ideal, if you want to play live with a midi keyboard.",
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"text": "Orchestral was one, but I think it's discontinued.",
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"text": "Mutabor allows you to use arbitrary tunings and works on a couple of platforms.",
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"text": "It accepts MIDI input from keyboards and files.",
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"text": "On Mac I've had some trouble getting it set up, and the translation to English is not done yet, but it has great potential...",
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"text": "Pianoteq .",
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"text": "You should really look at this physical-modeling piano virtual instrument plugin .",
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"text": "Not only does it support all the historical temperaments, it models many kinds of harpsichords, fortepianos, pianos, and other instruments.",
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"text": "It sounds excellent and is light on system requirements, and it's available for Mac, PC and Linux.",
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"text": "/alt-",
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"text": "tuner.html Alt-tuner is a midi effect for your Digital Audio Workstation, very powerful.",
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"text": "You can sweep the whole spectrum of meantone (1/3 comma, 2/7 comma, 1/4 comma, 1/5 comma, 1/11 comma = 12-ET, 0 comma = pythagorean) and you can even do this with a foot pedal as you are playing, via midi learn.",
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"text": "It also does well-temperament, any kind.",
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"text": "It does just intonation with commatic shifts, called tapnotes.",
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"text": "It does ADAPTIVE just intonation, which adjusts all the pitches very slightly (2-3¢) as you play, for a better sound than quarter-comma meantone, which has fifths flat by 5.5¢, and min 7ths and maj 9ths flat by 11¢.",
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"text": "You can also switch back and forth between all these tunings with foot pedals as you play - as to Monica Cellio's comment above - no need for mp3s, just play and listen!",
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"text": "Korg and Yamaha synths each support a fairly large number of different temperaments.",
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"text": "Other makes may as well, these are just the ones I have owned.",
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"text": "I'm surprised the companies don't advertise this feature.",
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"text": "Every virtual organ software that I know of can handle multiple temperaments: Hauptwerk (proprietary) GrandOrgue (open source) jOrgan (open source)",
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"question": "Do you know of any software out there that will allow me to play in different musical temperaments (e.g. Well temperament and Meantone temperament)? I'm especially interested in software that accepts MIDI input.",
"title": "Software that allows playing in different temperaments",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<tuning><software><keyboard><temperament>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/351",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/110/Babu"
} | 32_13 | [
[
"Logic Pro has built-in controls for using different temperaments. MAX/MSP is another solution, but if you don't have programming experience, using this as an option might be significantly more trouble than it's worth. Midi actually has a 20-year old ratified specification extension just for this. Denemo, Edirol, Mutabor are others. All virtual organ scores can do this. Korg and Yamaha synths each support a fairly large number of different temperaments. ",
"Suggestions for software that allows playing in different temperaments, include, Logic Pro, MAX/MSP, Timidity, Denemi, Edirol, Mutabor, Pianoteq, Hauptwerk, GrandOrgue, jOrgan. Also Korg and Yamaha synths."
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"Suggestions for software that allows playing in different temperaments, include, Logic Pro, MAX/MSP, Timidity, Denemi, Edirol, Mutabor, Pianoteq, Hauptwerk, GrandOrgue, jOrgan. ",
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"text": "Most keyboard instruments of the baroque Era as well as early pianoforte had fewer keys than the current 88-standard (some modern piano like the Bosendorfer Imperial have 97 keys, 9 additional keys in the bass), and much of Bach keyboard works for instance can be played on such a restricted keyboard.",
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"text": "With restricted high notes you will have difficulties with many of Chopin's and Liszt's works where the composers take hold of the whole instrument and use replication of elements among successive octaves for effect.",
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"text": "Many pieces of composers such as Scriabin and Debussy also use the whole range of the piano.",
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"text": "Another thing you would miss is playing four-hands, but I guess this is not the kind of activity you are into.",
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"text": "If your new keyboard is able to transpose 1 octave up or down, you may be able to play more pieces by adjusting the range to the work you want to play, as if you were shifting your chair left or right in front of your piano.",
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"text": "I have a 61 key and don't find it a problem, but then other people used to larger keyboards do.",
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"text": "Just make sure it has handy octave-transpose buttons and you can do a bit of quick transposing mid-song if you need it.",
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"text": "If you really like to play flashy virtuosic pieces, then it might be a problem.",
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"text": "But the highest octave is hardly ever used, and if it extends to an A on the lower end, that should cover most pieces in the standard repertoire.",
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"text": "Looking at a Google image search of 61 note keyboards, it seems that many of them end on a low C (C2).",
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"text": "It would be a safer bet if it extended at least down to the A, but those lower notes are often used for octave doublings, in which case you'd probably be able to get away with it.",
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"text": "Yes, it will restrict your repertoire.",
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"text": "I have a 61 key synth, and there are occasions when I have to adapt a piece 'to fit'.",
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"text": "Not very many songs, mind.",
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"text": "It doesn't make me regret buying it 20 years ago.",
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"text": "There is a dedicated transpose key that I can configure from -24 to +24, so the theoretical range is greater than 88 keys, however, despite it being very easy to use, it can still be impossible/impractical to execute whilst playing (you also have to shift your hands pretty quickly to compensate for the left or right hand that didn't need to transpose).",
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"text": "I only usually transpose keys between songs.",
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"text": "You can get an 88 key midi controller very reasonably: http://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Audio-9900-40832-00-Keystation-88es/dp/B0006676A0/ref=sr_1_3/280-5526809-4799532?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1400103634&sr=1-3&keywords=88+key+keyboard+weighted",
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"text": "So you can enjoy the best of both worlds, space and pocket permitting.",
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"text": "Since the 61-key market does have some fine workhorses.",
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"text": "Many 88-key models are also available as 61-key models and can be half the price.",
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"text": "So you can save some money if you already own an 88-key controller, and a compatible cable, of course.",
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"text": "I went from a board with 61 keys to one with 73.",
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"text": "It was a vast improvement.",
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"text": "I still miss the very lowest keys, not so much the highest octave.",
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"text": "Happily I have my old upright at home for when nothing will do but that low A, or Bb.",
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"text": "When gigging, I need to stay away from too much bass anyway, so it is not so bad.",
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"text": "But if this is your only keyboard, I expect you will feel very cramped on a 61.",
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"text": "A 73 would be better.",
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"text": "But if you can find (and afford) an 88 - with an acceptable key feel and that is not too back breaking - pick it up.",
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"text": "You are a pianist as opposed to a keyboard player.",
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"text": "I think there is a distinction (both are wonderful assets to humanity, of course)",
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"text": "so weigh any advice you get based on the speaker's orientation to his or her instrument.",
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"text": "You might experience issues.",
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"text": "I'm learning Liszt's Hungarian rhapsody No. 9 right now and for some of the highest notes, an ossia for 66-key pianos is given.",
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"text": "Not sure if they'd fit in to your 61-key one, though.",
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"text": "Whatever you do, don't get rid of the 88 key digital piano and switch down to a 61 key digital keyboard!",
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"text": "The only reason for doing this is if you are into organ music, thus not needing that additional octave at the top and additional octave and one third at the bottom of the keyboard!",
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"text": "Like others say, hitting (or even finding) that octave transposition feature in mid selection is a drag and will distract you from the music enough to make a mistake (or variation as us musicians like to say to minimize errors in performances)!",
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"text": "Yes, it will limit you in your playing of classical pieces of music and you'll definitely want to hold on to this one!",
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"text": "If you do indeed want to go with 61 keys, try to get at least two, if not three or more so that you can have more musical range for organ pieces!",
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"text": "What I would do is go with a digital computer organ or even have a pipe organ built if it was in your budget as well as meeting your portability needs!",
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"text": "Please remember that when using a MIDI keybaord of 61 keys,, it is extremely easy to transpose the key, for instance -12 semitones or an octave.",
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"text": "giving your 12 more bass notes at the expense of the highest notes...",
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"text": "This will help a bit for certain pieces.",
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"text": "The transpose function also allows you to cheat, by playing a piece in any key that suits you and not learning new notes.",
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"text": "If you already play classical music surely you can answer this yourself to some extent.",
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"text": "How many times do you play keys in the top and bottom octave in the music you've played?",
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"text": "Classical music covers a massive range, I think if you were utilising those extremes of pitch you'd probably remember!",
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"question": "I'm planning on trading my 88-key digital piano for a 61-key portable music workstation as I'm more inclined into rock keyboards as of late than classical music. However, I do enjoy playing classical parts, and I wonder if buying a keyboard with a restricted range will restrict my repertoire much. A 61-key keyboard essentially removes the first and last octaves from the 88-key traditional piano. Are there many pieces that would be deemed unplayable without these octaves?",
"title": "Will a 61-key keyboard severely restrict my piano repertoire?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><repertoire><keyboard>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/492",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/291/Diego"
} | 32_14 | [
[
"S0: Most keyboard instruments of the baroque Era as well as early pianoforte had fewer keys than the current 88-standard (some modern piano like the Bosendorfer Imperial have 97 keys, 9 additional keys in the bass), and much of Bach keyboard works for instance can be played on such a restricted keyboard. With restricted high notes you will have difficulties with many of Chopin's and Liszt's works where the composers take hold of the whole instrument and use replication of elements among successive octaves for effect. Many pieces of composers such as Scriabin and Debussy also use the whole range of the piano. If you really like to play flashy virtuosic pieces, then it might be a problem. ",
"Some classical pieces will be able to be played, eg Bach. However there are some classical pieces that you will not be able to play, Chopin, Liszt, Scriabin, Debussy and will restrict your repertoire. "
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"Some classical pieces will be able to be played, eg Bach.",
"There will be some classical pieces that you will not be able to play, Chopin, Liszt, Scriabin, Debussy and will restrict your repertoire."
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"text": "Well, the piano started out with only about 60 keys, same as the harpsichord –",
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"text": "in fact it WAS a harpsichord, except that the harpsichord maker Bartolomeo Cristofori (try saying that 10 times fast!)",
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"text": "got the bright idea of putting hammers on one (to HIT the strings) instead of plectra (to PLUCK the strings).",
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"text": "So the piano was invented – this was around 1700, or maybe a little before that.",
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"text": "Anyway, as composers began to use the new instrument they started writing more and more complicated and brilliant music for it.",
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"text": "Pretty soon, the keyboard had to expand in both directions.",
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"text": "By the middle of the 19th century, it had 85 notes – up to A – then finally they added the last three at the top.",
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"text": "There's even a piano made today – the Bösendorfer Imperial Concert Grand – which has 97 keys; the bass notes go all the way down to C.",
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"text": "It's nine-and-a-half feet long and weighs almost a ton. — Piano Education - FAQ",
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"text": "I'm no expert but the obvious answer is so to have the full seven octaves for both A minor and C major.",
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"text": "The first key of a piano is an A and the last is a C.",
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"text": "The importance of A minor and C major is they are the only two keys made up entirely of white keys.",
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"text": "And to be precise, one extra pitch is added to the top of the final octave to complete it.",
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"text": "So a full chromatic scale is 13 pitches, 12+1.",
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"text": "Two chromatic scales are 25 pitches, (12x2)+1, etc.",
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"text": "So in total there are (12x7)+1+3 = 88 keys on a piano.",
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"text": "An observation about 88 notes on the piano...",
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"text": "You can play through the entire major key circle of fifths on the piano starting on the lowest C to the highest C; AND You can play through the entire minor key circle of fifths on the piano starting on the lowest A to the highest A. Interesting how this worked out perfectly!",
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"text": "There are a lot of explanations for this, such as \"The extra 4 keys allow the piano to cover the entire range of a 'standard' orchestra.\"",
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"text": "However, it's probably just tradition.",
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"text": "The human ear can't really distinguish notes higher or lower very well, but it provides more functionality than 4- or 5-octave pianos.",
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"text": "The keyboard grew beyond five octaves as piano makers essentially said \"Ours is better because it has more notes.\"",
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"text": "There is no particular reason why it didn't stop at 85 or keep going to 90.",
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"text": "It could have done either.",
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"text": "Eventually the market required that all pianos have the same number, and it just happened to stabilize at 88.",
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"question": "I know that the piano contains 7 octaves plus a 4th. I also know that it accommodates the full circle of fifths (from C and back to C). But since a fifth contains 7 semitones, it only \"needs\" 7X12 = 84 keys for the circle. So why the \"extra\" 4 keys?",
"title": "Why do standard modern pianos have 88 keys?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><instruments>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/643",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/128/iddober"
} | 32_17 | [
[
"There are a lot of explanations for this, such as \"The extra 4 keys allow the piano to cover the entire range of a 'standard' orchestra.\", that is the full seven octaves for both A minor and C major. The keyboard grew beyond five octaves as piano makers essentially said \"Ours is better because it has more notes.\" Eventually the market required that all pianos have the same number, and it just happened to stabilize at 88.",
"The piano keyboard has 88 keys to have the full seven octaves for both A minor and C major. It covers the full range of a standar orchestra. Piano makers increased the number of keys, but the market required all pianos to have the same number of keys and it sabilized at 88."
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"The piano keyboard has 88 keys to have the full seven octaves for both A minor and C major. It covers the full range of a standar orchestra.",
"Piano makers increased the number of keys, but the market required all pianos to have the same number of keys and it sabilized at 88."
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"text": "One cause of yawning can certainly be that your body needs more oxygen, so key to solving the problem is getting enough breaths in.",
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"text": "Some scores have breaths marked, but for others you'll need to work out for yourself where you can fit your breaths in.",
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"text": "I know a couple of people who were asthmatic and had this problem, and they found swimming helped them learn to breathe more deeply and take deeper, more controlled breaths.",
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"text": "One of the first thing you could do is to train yourself to yawn : yawn and alternatively inhale and intonate at a standard voice level at the same time, opening the mouth as wide as possible.",
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"text": "Do that slowly, several times before starting to sing.",
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"text": "It will flex your face muscles in a good way and place your lower jaw.",
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"text": "A little side benefit is that you will be less likely to yawn after this exercice.",
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"text": "Our singing teacher used to make us do this and a little series of other warmups before every session.",
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"text": "You could also have an iron deficiency, which affects the amount of oxygen your system can use.",
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"text": "I'd say go and talk to a GP and see if it's possibly medically related as well as a technique thing.",
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"text": "More generally about breathing properly while singing: Stand up straight.",
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"text": "Instead, breathe down into your stomach.",
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"text": "Your lungs will expand downwards and you'll have more control over the release of air as you sing.",
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"text": "If you put one hand on your chest and the other on your stomach, the chest hand should remain still and the stomach hand should move out when you breathe in and in when you breathe out.",
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"text": "This should allow you to get more oxygen out of your breaths, regardless of how many you take.",
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"text": "I experienced the same thing when I was first learning to sing.",
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"text": "I think that yawning is your body's natural reflex to open up wide, flex and then relax all the muscles in your larynx, throat and mouth (all of which you need to remain flexible and in control to sing properly).",
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"text": "Yawning is good for warming up before singing, but not good if it interrupts your singing.",
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"text": "Back then I found that I would yawn a bit at the beginning of rehearsal, but I never yawned during performance because I focused mentally on giving the best performance that I could, and got so busy focusing on forming each note that yawning was no longer a possibility.",
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"text": "Yawning while singing is not necessarily a sign of improper breathing.",
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"text": "Rather, it could be a sign of good throat position.",
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"text": "Proper vocal technique across a wide variety of styles (including classical, folk, and pop, all of which I'm trained in) has a singer open their throat and raise their palate in the rear, similar to the motion you make while yawning.",
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"text": "This helps keep the sound from being overly nasal.",
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"text": "Of course, yawning while singing is not really a great thing if it affects your singing.",
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"text": "There are several things you can do to help.",
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"text": "Firstly, learn to sing through a yawn.",
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"text": "You'd be surprised how, with a little training, you can sing straight through without losing tone while you're yawning.",
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"text": "Another thing you can do is learn what exactly triggers you to yawn while you sing and modify your tongue and throat position slightly -- you want your mouth and throat to be shaped similarly to a yawn, but it's possible you're going a bit too far and actually triggering a yawn unintentionally.",
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"text": "Proper breath support can also help decrease our propensity to yawn while singing, though, as I mentioned, I'm very reluctant to say that yawning is",
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"text": "caused by poor breathing.",
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"question": "Singing almost always make me yawn. I've heard this is due to not breathing correctly, but I'm not sure what that means. What's the correct way to breathe while singing so I don't yawn?",
"title": "Why do I yawn while singing?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<voice><breathing>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/654",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/173/BenV"
} | 32_18 | [
[
"One cause of yawning can certainly be that your body needs more oxygen, so key to solving the problem is getting enough breaths in. You can train for bigger breaths but some people find it difficult to breathe properly. One of the first thing you could do is to train yourself to yawn : yawn and alternatively inhale and intonate at a standard voice level at the same time, opening the mouth as wide as possible. Another thing you can do is learn what exactly triggers you to yawn while you sing and modify your tongue and throat position slightly -- you want your mouth and throat to be shaped similarly to a yawn, but it's possible you're going a bit too far and actually triggering a yawn unintentionally. ",
"One way to stop yawning whilst singing would be to get more oxygen. This can be achieved by training for bigger and more breaths. To help with this, training to yawn and learning what triggers you to yawn may help with this. "
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"One way to stop yawning whilst singing would be to get more oxygen. This can be achieved by training for bigger and more breaths.",
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"text": "Ligeti's thirteenth piano étude \"L'escalier du diable\" or devil's staircase, uses the full range of the keyboard.",
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"text": "You can see it clearly in this video .",
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"text": "The pianist is Francesco Libetta .",
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"text": "Shostakovich 1st",
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"text": "Piano Concerto?",
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"text": "Ok, ok, not technically a 'song', but still...",
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"text": "Very few before 1890.",
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"text": "Some pianos like the Steinway A still had only 85 notes at that time, and most composers stayed within that range.",
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"text": "After that time, many composers pushed the limits.",
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"text": "Olivier Messiaen's piano compositions use the full range.",
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"text": "For instance the two-piano piece \"Visions de l'Amen\" opens with a triad on the lowest A of the piano.",
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"text": "Another piece has the left hand playing in the lowest octave and the right in the highest octave.",
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"text": "Ravel, in \"Une Barque sur l'Ocean\", writes for G below the lowest A on the keyboard.",
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"text": "He had a 90-key Erard piano that had that low note.",
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"text": "There is a similar 90-key Erard at the Frederick Collection in Ashburnham, Massachusetts.",
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"text": "I have heard that there is a piece by Scriabin that calls for the D above the highest C on the piano, but I don't think any piano was ever made that had that note.",
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"text": "Not on top of my head.",
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"text": "Some songs will require loads of octaves.",
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"text": "The Piano theme by Michael Nyman takes 3 octaves around C3, then jumps down 2 octaves.",
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"text": "But imo the main reason of having so many key (specially since you tagged this question under midi and midi controller) would be for performance reasons.",
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"text": "Most samplers allow you to choose ranges for different presets.",
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"text": "So you can actually have 2 blown octaves from a nice sawtooth wave with a huge portamento for your theremin like solo, then 5 octaves of your main rhodes sound :)",
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"text": "(I'm speculating, not saying you use those",
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"text": "or you want to do this, just putting it into a RL perspective!).",
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"text": "Logic in itself allows you to do this somewhat in environment, etc.",
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"text": "Some compositions will have some information on really really low end (ie.",
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"text": "think big, big pipe organs) but again - C1 has it's fundamental at around 32Hz, E1 at 41Hz.",
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"text": "C0",
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"text": "it's around 15Hz (see an issue here?)",
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"text": "Uh, I stomped on this the other day",
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"text": "- it does play C0",
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"text": "but it's not a keyboard! :P",
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"text": "Late last year I was playing the piano reduction for Bruch's violin concerto and I'm not sure it uses the first and last C's of the piano, but it sure does use those octaves.",
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"text": "I know a piano reduction is not a proper piece, but hey, two cents is two cents.",
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"text": "There's another consideration to take into account with this question: while a piece may be strictly possible to play without the full 88 keys by moving it up or down an octave, it may not actually sound any good at that point.",
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"text": "The lowest and highest octaves have very distinctive sounds about them, and notes written in those ranges are generally written there specifically for this reason.",
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"text": "I would suggest that going beyond just one of these boundaries makes playing the piece 'properly' on a piano impossible, even if not technically so.",
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"text": "John Corigliano , Etude-Fantasy and Concerto for Piano and Orchestra both use a huge range of the instrument.",
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"text": "Also Fredric Rzewski piano piece",
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"text": "#4 (from Four Piano Pieces) starts on the B one note from the top of a full-scale piano and uses the lowest A on the piano.",
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"text": "(I have had to \"recompose\" the piece on the fly when presented at the last moment with a Bechstein whose highest note is the A below the intended starting B)",
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"question": "I’m wondering if there is a piano composition that uses notes from subcontra octave (C 0 ) and five-lined octave (C 8 ) at the same time? In other words, is there any song there is no way to play without a keyboard that has 88 keys?",
"title": "Are there any compositions for piano that are impossible to play without a full-range keyboard?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><repertoire>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/871",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/12162/Arseny"
} | 32_19 | [
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"Shostakovich 1st, Olivier Messiaen's piano compositions and Ligeti's thirteenth piano étude \"L'escalier du diable\" or devil's staircase, use the full range of the keyboard.",
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"text": "It's a trick that's been around for ages, with many variations - I've even heard that the use of certain bodily fluids gives good results, but it isn't something I'm about to try.",
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"text": "The main reason to do this is to save money, but you should ask yourself whether the savings are worth it.",
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"text": "It's generally a better idea to keep your strings in good shape - wiping them clean of grime and sweat after playing and giving them a rubdown with string-cleaner every now and again.",
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"text": "Boiling is a short-term remedy and if you've been taking care of your strings on a regular basis, by the time it becomes an option, you really should think about changing them.",
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"text": "The key drawback of boiling is that you must take the strings off and put them on again - which, unfortunately, exposes them to certain risks.",
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"text": "For a start, once they've been wound onto the tuning pegs, the wire is permanently disfigured.",
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"text": "This isn't a problem as long as they remain wound on, but removing them and putting them back on may make it a factor in tuning, consistent string vibration and overall strength - bend and straighten a wire too many times and it breaks.",
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"text": "You can take care in putting the strings back on again in order to achieve an near-identical string position as originally, however, it's likely that you will end up with some inconsistency.",
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"text": "String tension will take care of it to an extent, but the string won't perform as well as when it was originally put on.",
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"text": "With wound strings, an additional problem might be distortion of the windings for the exact same reason.",
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"text": "My suggestion would be to resort to boiling only when left with no other option.",
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"text": "It really shouldn't be seen as a standard method of extending string life.",
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"text": "I used to do this with bass strings, and it does make a difference.",
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"text": "They'll brighten up and sound like new, but not for as long as they did right out of the package.",
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"text": "It's a bit of a pain, though, because of course to remove the strings, you have to fully unwind them rather than simply cut them, so it takes longer.",
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"text": "I wouldn't try this with guitar strings, mostly because the marginal cost savings doesn't seem worth it.",
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"text": "Also, I'm not sure if it would make much difference with plain strings---the idea behind boiling is that it clears out dead skin stuck between the windings, which of course plain strings don't have.",
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"text": "I wouldn't worry about boiling, etc unless absolutely necessary due to very limited finances.",
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"text": "Because out of all honesty, nothing sounds like a new fresh set of strings!",
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"text": "For some reason, when I put a new set of guitar or bass strings (roundwound) on, I only get about 2 sets worth (1.5 hours) of playing and they are dead!",
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"text": "I tried all brands and none lasted any longer than the D\"Adarrio's.",
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"text": "I definately have a body chemical issue!",
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"text": "I played Bass in a hard rock band for 20 years, and I did boil each set of strings between each gig",
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"text": "and it did work.",
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"text": "Ocassinally, they would last longer after boiling and then rubbing alcohol wiping then",
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"text": "when new?",
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"text": "Nobody ever let me touch their bass because they knew what I would do to their strings....",
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"text": "Don't boil old strings; once they're gone they're gone.",
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"text": "I boil my new set right out of the package, it makes them softer and more pliable.",
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"text": "That's an old John Entwisle trick, it works.",
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"question": "I've read that some people boil their strings from time to time to make them sound again like they were new (and save some money). Is this really worthwhile, or are there any disadvantages to this?",
"title": "Boiling/washing used guitar/bass strings - is it worthwhile?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<guitar><strings><bass-guitar>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/2948",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/580/phoibos"
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[
"S3: Boiling is a short-term remedy and if you've been taking care of your strings on a regular basis, by the time it becomes an option, you really should think about changing them. Boiling is recommended only as a last resort. The general consensus is do not boil strings, buy new ones.",
"Some people claim that boiling old strings is worthwhile and gives good results, although only in the short term. Other say it is Not worthwhile unless you have limited finances - Once they're gone, they're gone!"
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"text": "The average lowest range of human hearing is 20Hz, around E 0 .",
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"text": "(Most pianos have A 0 as the lowest note, since nearly everyone unimpaired can hear it",
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"text": "and it's more \"musical\").",
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"text": "This means that if the beat frequency is above 20 Hz, you will hear a third note corresponding to that frequency.",
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"text": "That's definitely bad.",
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"text": "The \"beat\" phenomenon still occurs below 20 Hz though, of course.",
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"text": "I would approximate one beat every 3 seconds, or a beat frequency of 0.333....",
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"text": "Hz, to be good enough.",
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"text": "There's no hard and fast rule, really, since more sensitive people may pick up on a slower beat than others.",
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"text": "Once it gets that slow I struggle to notice it, and I certainly wouldn't pick up on it unless I was listening for it.",
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"text": "It's harder to get higher strings to stay within 1/3 Hz of each other as well, since tuning adjustments cause a greater frequency change than for lower strings, so you might have to be more lenient with them.",
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"text": "And, unfortunately, you're never going to get around the variation in how your piano sounds.",
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"text": "You should try to keep the humidity and temperature consistent (which will help how long the piano stays in tune generally as well), but it will never be perfect.",
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"text": "You take a tuning fork tuned to 440Hz and a second one tuned at 442Hz, the beating will be 2beats/second and the following is true: 440 + 442",
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"text": "= 2beats/sec440 + 437 = 3beats/sec880 + 882 = 2beats/sec220 + 219 = 1beat/secetc.",
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"text": "So the difference in the frequencies equal the beating per second.",
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"text": "The beating itself is heard as a fluctuation of the volume of the sound (not the pitch)",
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"text": "When two strings a perfectly in tune the attack part of the note will sound harder or tighter.",
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"text": "The harmonics (partials) also will be more noticeable thus augmenting the \"clarity\" or \"brightness\" of the sound.",
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"text": "As soon as one of the strings are getting \"off\", the sound become \"duller\" and less definite.",
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"text": "Overall, a not so perfectly tuned piano will sound less satisfying and will loose definition.",
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"text": "(definition = every notes can be distinguished clearly) Even though a normal person can't tell how many beats/",
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"text": "sec",
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"text": "the piano's unisons are out, this person can still notice quite a little difference in the out of tune unison because of the color change that occurred in the sound.",
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"text": "Something like 0.5beat/sec will be noticed because the \"quality\" of the sound is changed.",
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"text": "Hope that all this make sense.",
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"text": "The Piano Technicians Guild is an association of piano technicians and they have exams to qualify technicians.",
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"text": "The tuning exam has many parts, including a unison part.",
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"text": "In this part, the examinee will tune 24 unisons from C3 to B4.",
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"text": "The examiners measure the difference between all three strings of each unison.",
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"text": "If they are out by more than 0.9 cents, (100 cents = a semitone) then the examinee will lose 2 percent.",
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"text": "The unison is measured for left to centre, right to centre, and left to right, meaning that an examinee can lose 6% on one note!",
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"text": "80% is a pass, meaning an examinee can not have more than 10 unison pairs greater than 0.9 cents off.",
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"text": "A constant cents offset will result in a different bps depending on where on the piano you are talking about.",
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"text": "Also, humidity fluctuations throughout the day should affect each unison string the same.",
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"text": "If you have unions going out during the day, that has to be some other problem.",
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"text": "I think the question relates to how many beats per second (or seconds per beat) is acceptable with unisons to consider them to still be in tune.",
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"text": "We agree that one beat per second indicates that two strings are different by 1 hertz, eg one string is at 440 (A4) and another at 439 and we can hear a slow",
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{
"text": "wow",
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"text": "wow wow.",
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"text": "That is a difference of 4 cents.",
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"text": "The tolerance in strictest tuning exams happens to be much less eg 1 or 2 cents.",
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"text": "At 220 (a3) compared with 219Hz the difference is 8 cents.",
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"text": "I guess 8 cents on one if not both of the strings is going to make an audible difference in the frequency of beating of the major 3rds, 4ths, 5ths to the trained ear, so at A3 we would not want any of the strings to be as much as 8 cents out.",
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"text": "Maybe I should analyze a few pianos with Tunelab or similar listening devices after they have had professional or paid-for tunings, and find out what is going on.................",
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"text": "It was a valid question although I have never noticed a periodic change like a worsening then an improvement in what I hear in my own piano",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Not very far.",
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"text": "As far as I'm concerned, there are several aspects of how well a piano is tuned.",
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"text": "For equal temperament: 1.",
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"text": "Pitch of A4 should be at 440 no more than 0.9 cent to pass the PTG test",
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"text": "but I tune to within 0.1 cent or closer.",
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"text": "2.",
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"text": "Intervals across the piano should be: Octaves, pure or slightly wide; 5ths, slightly narrow; 4ths slightly/somewhat wider than the 5ths are narrow; M3rds should be wide and progressively beat faster going from low to high across the instrument.",
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"text": "Finally, and to your question, unisons should be as perfectly pure or still as you can get them at least within .2 cents",
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"text": "but .1 or zero is better.",
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"text": "You will hear bad unisons before anything else so that's of paramount importance.",
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"text": "Pianos can \"sound OK\" and be out of tune by the above standards, it all depends on the musical training and tolerance of the listener; some people can't tell if a piano is in tune at all.",
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"text": "BTW, many recordings contain out of tune pianos so that's not necessarily a bench mark.",
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"text": "So even though we can tune a piano to very tight tolerances, in the end it's subjective so the simple answer is: If it sounds OK to you, it's in tune...",
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"text": "but if it's been more than a year since you tuned it last, it needs a tuning :)",
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] | {
"question": "I'm talking about either beats per second of a resulting beat between two strings in the midrange of the piano. My piano seems to vary during different parts of the day, I think because of the temperature variation in the room where it sits.",
"title": "How far “off” can a piano unison be and still be considered “in-tune”?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><tuning>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/2962",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/516/jbm"
} | 32_48 | [
[
"With regard to how far “off” can a piano unison be and still be considered “in-tune”, in general, the beat frequency should be low enough that you can't notice it. There's no hard and fast rule, really, since more sensitive people may pick up on a slower beat than others. If they are out by more than 0.9 cents, (100 cents = a semitone) then the examinee will lose 2 percent. Finally, unisons should be as perfectly pure or still as you can get them at least within .2 cents",
"Generally, the beat frequency should be low enough so you don't notice it. Some people may be more or less sensitive to tuning. Unisons should be as perfectly pure or still as you can get them at least within .2 cents. According to piano tuners, the pitch should be no more that approximately .9 cents out."
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"Generally, the beat frequency should be low enough so you don't notice it. Some people may be more or less sensitive to tuning.",
"Unisons should be as perfectly pure or still as you can get them at least within .2 cents. According to piano tuners, the pitch should be no more that approximately .9 cents out."
]
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"sents": [
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"text": "Well, that subject is VERY subjective, but there are some points commonly agreed upon: Chord progression plays an important role, but any given progression can have a different feeling depending on the context.",
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"text": "For example, take the vi - IV - I - V progression very common in pop music.",
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"text": "Sometimes, when played ballad-style and flowingly, it can give an image of desperation, and resolve.",
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"text": "But played with gusto, it could even suggest agitation or anger.",
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"text": "The piece that you mentioned, Adagio for Strings, uses a liberal amount of suspensions.",
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"text": "Often times the dissonances resolve to minor chords, rest for a bit, followed by a stronger but short intense passage before settling back down to a minor chord.",
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"text": "This, to me, suggests \"fighting a losing battle with despair.\"",
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"text": "Texture and timbre are huge contributors.",
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"text": "I already mentioned it in my last bullet point.",
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"text": "Many, many, many pop songs have the same four chord progression (I - V - vi - IV or vi - IV - I - V), yet the good ones manage to remain unique.",
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"text": "It's little things, like the strings on the guitar, how mellow are they?",
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"text": "Does the piano have a slight ring to it, or is it percussive?",
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"text": "All these things can create a myriad of different emotions.",
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"text": "Both of the above tie in with tempo in obvious ways.",
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"text": "Mellow, sadder, songs tend to be played slower so that one can appreciate the unique textures.",
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"text": "Like I said, it's a VERY, VERY subjective area, but hope this helps.",
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"text": "Very interesting question.",
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"text": "For a computer to understand whether song is happy or sad, you must define \"happy\" and \"sad\" first.",
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"text": "This alone seems almost impossible, since every human has his own understanding of happiness, sadness and all other emotions.",
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"text": "You can define \"sad songs\" as the \"songs which induce a sad mood in the listener\".",
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"text": "In this case, how can you know what effect the song will make on every individual human?",
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"text": "For example, you can write a very happy song with major tonality and lyrics about summer and children, and an old man will cry while listening to it, because he remembered that his son died last summer.",
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"text": "As for the theory: many people think that major = happy and minor = sad.",
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"text": "This is, generally, because of the relation to major and minor chords, which have a very different mood to them.",
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"text": "Major thirds, which are the basis for major chords, sound happy and bright; and minor thirds, which are the basis for minor chords, sound dark and sad.",
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"text": "This is the impression people usually get when they listen to the interval or chord alone.",
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"text": "When chords line up to make up a song, the mood of the song is produced not from individual chords, but by tension and release made by chord sequences.",
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"text": "You cannot tell that a song with minor tonality will be accepted as \"sad\" or in major as \"happy\", because tonality does not matter; A minor and C major have all the same notes.",
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"text": "It is tension/release and the listener's interpretation.",
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"text": "I don't think that computers will be able to understand music in any imaginable future.",
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"text": "As @user234 noted, this is very subjective, and depends hugely on your musical background and the culture that you're from.",
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"text": "Ever since these started mixing and merging, the matter became even more complicated.",
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"text": "Basically, there's nothing innately 'sad' or 'angry' in a given chord or a progression, it's just the way you've personally learned to associate them with some context.",
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"text": "I remember reading in some book about chord types, where it was mentioned that (and I quote very loosely) '",
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"text": "major resembles this",
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"text": ", minor resembles that and [something",
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"text": "more complex - aug? sus?]",
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"text": "resembles",
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"text": "Bambi deer emerging from the bush covered in mist droplets'.",
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"text": "While this may sound silly, I think that it provides huge insight into our musical perception, and emphasizes how the musical gustos of the generation that was raised on cartoons were shaped.",
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"text": "Of course everybody might have watched different cartoons (I for example, having never seen Bambi, was amazed",
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"text": "how much classical music I found familiar by reference to Tom and Jerry and Looney Tunes)",
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"text": "hence their associations might be slightly different.",
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"text": "Which, if you think of it, makes matters quite interesting.",
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"text": ":)",
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"text": "Ultimately some generalizations may be drawn, but immediately someone will beg to differ and that's normal",
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"text": "I guess.",
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"text": "\"Happy\" and \"sad\" songs are entirely defined by one's sociocultural environment.",
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"text": "That is to say, the definitions are entirely socially-constructed and largely subjective.",
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"text": "The current state of western music aligns major with happy and minor with sad, but back in the 17th century, a piece of music was sad regardless of the tonality as long as it had the \"dying fall\" in its melodic line.",
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"text": "The \"nature\" side of this \"nature vs. nurture\" argument is largely explained by this excellent video:",
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"text": "The feelings that you want to transmit es very relevant with scale or chords that you use.",
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"text": "For example: Minor scale and chords sound dark and sad (ballads).",
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"text": "Major scale and chords sound bright and happy (classic pop).",
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"text": "Power chords sound powerfull, with a lot of energy (rock, metal,punk).",
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"text": "At last, all this musical resources are very related, but they sound very different.",
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"text": "The \"sound/tone/timbre\" of the instruments and the atmosphere created by them give music a certain personality.",
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"text": "For soundtracks, the context of the movie gives personality to the music.",
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"text": "Other than this, I think it is an individual that gives personality to the music.",
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"text": "That is, it also depends on what mental and physical state you are in.",
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"text": "As already mentioned, it is a very subjective thing.",
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"text": "Same music can evoke different feelings in different persons.",
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"text": "The most important thing when listening to any music is how \"you\" \"feel\" it.",
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"question": "What makes a piece of music sound angry, dark, sad, happy, or otherwise? \"La Chute\" by Yann Tiersen sounds so angry to me and \"A Dark Knight\" from \"The Dark Knight\" movie sounds so dark and mysterious. \"Adagio for Strings\" by Samuel Barber is a pure expression of sadness, and of course there's no need to even talk about \"Adagio of Concierto De Aranjuez\". What gives a piece of music its personality?",
"title": "What gives a piece of music its personality and feeling?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<theory><composition><musicology><psychoacoustics>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/3066",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/245/Chiron"
} | 33_0 | [
[
"The feeling of a piece of music is very subjective and also culturally related. However, texture and timbre contribute to the perceived feeling as do, the \"sound/tone/timbre\" of the instruments and the chord progression. As for the theory: many people think that major = happy and minor = sad.",
"The answer to this question will be very subjective and may well depend on your social and cultural upbringing. However, chords, chord progressions, timbre and tone will all contribute towards the feeling or character of a piece of music."
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"Chords and chord progressions can play a significant part in whether a song is perceived as happy or sad.",
"The timbre and tone of instruments will be a signfiicant contributing factor.",
"The answer to this question will be very subjective and may well depend on your cultural and social upbringing."
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"sents": [
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"text": "By and large, you play better (from a technical aspect) when the bass is up high enough that you cannot notice the position change when you go from sitting to standing (so either sitting position or standing, high position in your pictures above).",
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"text": "This is why most instruction books recommend that you play with it up that high.",
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"text": "But once you have learned how to play, you may find that it is uncomfortable to play while standing.",
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"text": "If that is the case, then I would suggest you lower the bass by an inch or two (and then play for a few weeks to test the height) until you find a comfortable height.",
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"text": "Personally, I tend to play bass in the middle-low position, but I play guitar in the high position.",
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"text": "The big differences are in the way your hands are relative to the bass guitar.",
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"text": "For the right hand, this can be largely personal preference.",
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"text": "The height of the bass and the arm positing dictate the angle that your hand is to the strings.",
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"text": "Some variants on bass playing, like Victor Wooten's slapping, are said to be easier to execute on a higher-slung bass guitar.",
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"text": "For the left hand, the lower the neck, the more your wrist has to bend to keep the fingers on the fretboard.",
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"text": "This can cause excess strain on the wrist which can be the source of injuries.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "While choosing a position for comfortable playing in the style you like should be the key factor, a lot of bassists (and guitarists) choose a position based on looks.",
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"text": "Heavy metal bands typically go for the very low slung look-",
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"text": "it has a certain cachet and is associated with some very big name bands, whereas jazz bassists often use a higher position.",
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"text": "Huge generalisation, I know, but still broadly true.",
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"text": "High or low, my bass teacher recommended an upward angle (unlike the first photo, above), because it Makes the nut end of the freboard closer to your body, so the left hand doesn't have to reach or leverage as far.",
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"text": "Compensates for the longer length of the middle finger, so that you can pluck with the first and second fingers more equally.",
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"text": "There are several factors affecting it.",
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"text": "1 - Convenience.",
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"text": "Play in a high position is much easier to play, in particular on the high notes - 1st and 2nd string.",
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"text": "The high position is ideally suited for such jazz.",
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"text": "To play the low need of training - it's more complicated.",
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"text": "It is very difficult to reach the high notes.",
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"text": "2 - Appearance.",
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"text": "This is true, when you play heavy music, play the low post is much steeper.",
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"text": "At the same time it's all relative.",
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"text": "For example, Alex Webster played a very heavy music in a high position.",
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"text": "http://i.stack.imgur.com/aK2yJ.jpg Train, try to play in different positions and choose the most convenient for you.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Like others have stated, try not to worry too much about appearance but comfort and ease of getting the bass work done properly.",
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"text": "This could mean \"low\" or \"high\" depending on what type of music you play, and/or what particular area of the fret board you use the most.",
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"text": "While most people consider playing \"low\" bad form as it is associated with \"metal acts\" or \"looking cool,\" it can be more comfortable if you play with a pick, or if your fretting hand stays primarily in 1-5 positions instead of playing with the instrument \"high.\"",
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"text": "However, playing the instrument \"higher\" up makes slapping and popping much easier.",
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"text": "I actually have a strap that has two settings that can be adjusted immediately between songs if I need it high (slapping, or playing high notes up on the fret board), or low to keep my picking hand movement based on my shoulder instead of wrist.",
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"text": "I think the best option here is to set your strap so it's tight when you're sat down but the bass still sits on your knee.",
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"text": "This way the position of the bass is the same when you're standing as when you're sat down.",
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"text": "This also means you'll not have to adjust your playing style to play standing as everything should be the same.",
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"text": "Also when it's set at that height it's in a good place ergonomically to avoid RSI and other issues common with playing as your plucking hand won't be bent at an angle and the tendons can move more freely.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/13501/Hugh Noble",
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] | {
"question": "During some research I've found out that some guitarists use different position of bass-guitar during play: Play while sitting: Play while standing, high position: Play while standing, medium position: Play while standing, low and (sometimes) very low position: I want to know - is this just because of music style for bands, or can the sound be different because of guitar position?",
"title": "How to hold a bass guitar while playing",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<technique><bass-guitar>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/3390",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/576/VMAtm"
} | 33_1 | [
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"Choose a position that is comfortable rather than one based on looks when playing a bass guitar.",
"Whilst there are several factors that affect this choice, it's generally accepted that most people choose the position of their bass guitar based on looks."
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"text": "Getting guitar lessons with a good teacher would be the first choice, but if you really can't have a teacher, then watching guitar video lessons online would be the second choice.",
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"text": "You have to be careful though, there are many guitar players posting lessons on Youtube, and not all of them are good teachers or even good players.",
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"text": "One of the best online teachers would be Justin Sandercoe.",
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"text": "He has a complete beginner's and intermediate course, plus he's a pro musician and has been teaching guitar for many years.",
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"text": "His website is http://www.justinguitar.com .",
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"text": "Also check out the links given by Dr Mayhem, they contain some useful information as well.",
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"text": "One more thing, you mentioned that you would like to learn to play by ear.",
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"text": "Justin Sandercoe explains it on his website, but to play be able to by ear, you have to start by learning to transcribe music, which basically means listening to a song or a solo and figuring out the chords and notes by ear.",
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"text": "You'll probably want to look at Need help in starting to learn guitar",
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"text": "What is the first scale one should learn on the guitar Is there any guitar tuition software...?",
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"text": "And there are a lot of other good questions tagged guitar and learning",
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"text": "Music is communication.",
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"text": "They've found that when you play with other players, the parts of the brain that deal with speech light up.",
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"text": "You can get somewhere playing by yourself, but you get farther faster when you play with someone else.",
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"text": "It doesn't have to be in a lesson context.",
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"text": "Plus, when you play with someone else, you get a strong sense of what needs attention.",
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"text": "You may think you want to do fancy flatpicking runs, but you'll know you need work on timing and changing chords cleanly before picking up double-down-up picking ever need show up.",
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"text": "I think that with your background, you can educate yourself.",
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"text": "But at first it might be helpful to get a few lessons from a professional guitar teacher in order to teach you how to place the fingers of each hand to execute the notes correctly and produce the proper tone.",
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"text": "You will also need a critique of how you sit, stand and hold the instrument to enable playing with the least amount of fatigue, and factors like that.",
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"text": "A surprisingly difficult problem for many players who come from an instrument where you only play one note at a time, such as woodwinds, is this: You can form one chord on a guitar, and you can form another chord on a guitar, but how to you get your left hand to move from one chord to the next chord in the tempo of the song?",
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"text": "You want to hold one chord for its full rhythmic value and then, in an instant, form the next chord just a fraction of a second before the next chord needs to sound.",
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"text": "This is something else that a teacher could help drill you on.",
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"text": "In this day and age - learning from youtube is not a bad idea.",
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"text": "There are many helpful tutorials you can find there.",
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"text": "Also, try learning a song that you really like and that has easy chords.",
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"text": "This way you'll be motivated to practice more.",
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"text": "I would recommend beginning with chords and then moving onto finger-picking, unless you wanted to play classical guitar.",
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"text": "I saw a really great set of videos on how to play the guitar from Brazil on Y-Tube.",
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"text": "Subtitled in English -- it's free form and breaks it various styles down in rhythm and chords for you -- perhaps a different style for learning that you might find nice as an alternative.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If your already a player of other instruments, and an accomplished musician, the the first advice i would give you is to transpose some of the music you know on the other instruments onto the guitar.",
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"text": "You should be able to do this by ear, note by note if need be.",
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"text": "Transposing scales/arpeggios and such by ear shouldn't be a problem for you, just remember that once you have transposed a scale in a particular key, to remember the shape, as on the guitar the shapes stay the same across all keys.",
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"text": "Your major learning curve will be chords, fretting them on a guitar can be quite difficult to begin with.",
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"text": "In your position, I would choose a simple song/piece i was familiar with, and learn/apply the chord shapes for the guitar, if you have a good ear",
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"text": "this shouldnt be a problem.",
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"text": "Then build from there with another song, or write something with what you have learned etcetera.",
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"text": "Same applies with chords, once you have learnt a shape",
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"text": ", say one of the minor triad shapes, it stays the same regardless of the root.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Learn and Master Guitar goes through the basic to the fundamentals of playing by ear.",
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"text": "http://www.learnandmaster.com/guitar/",
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"sents": [
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"text": "One idea that I don't see mentioned here often for people just getting started on guitar is to enroll in a community college beginning guitar class.",
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"text": "The cost is much lower than individual lessons, basic questions get answered, you have a chance to get to know others who are also just beginning, you won't be the only one making mistakes and having trouble, they only last for a semester, and they can be a lot of fun to participate in.",
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"text": "And they usually have evening classes for working adults.",
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"text": "You won't be an accomplished player when the semester is over, but you'll have the option to continue advanced classes or study on your own.",
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] | {
"question": "I have an acoustic guitar that I've tried to learn to play many times. I'd like to learn to play by ear... I'm an accomplished musician on several other instruments but those are all woodwinds and I've used music reading. What's the best way to really start out? I've used books to no avail. Thank you!",
"title": "How to learn guitar without physical lessons?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<guitar><lessons>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/3593",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1011/TeeCee"
} | 33_2 | [
[
"Getting guitar lessons with a good teacher would be the first choice, but if you really can't have a teacher, then watching guitar video lessons online would be the second choice. In this day and age - learning from youtube is not a bad idea. Justin Sandercoe explains it on his website, but to play be able to by ear, you have to start by learning to transcribe music, which basically means listening to a song or a solo and figuring out the chords and notes by ear. Learn and Master Guitar goes through the basic to the fundamentals of playing by ear.",
"There are two key ways that you may be able to learn to play without physical lessons. One will be to look for tutorials online, such as on YouTube. The other will be to try and transcribe songs for guitar, particularly songs that you can already play on another instrument."
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"Looking for YouTube tutorials might be a good way to get started initially.",
"Transcribing music for the guitar will be a good way to learn by ear."
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The exact height of the keyboard off the floor is less important than the distance between the keyboard and your seat.",
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"text": "(Most chairs are too low to the ground to be good as a piano stool)",
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"text": "I'd agree with @Jeffrey",
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"text": "that forearms-parallel-to-the-floor is a good starting point, also that your knees don't get wedged out of the way by the bottom of the keyboard.",
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"text": "One",
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{
"text": "other thing--",
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"text": "in my experience, most students sit too close to the keyboard.",
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"text": "(This may have to do with sitting at a desk most of the time, or with sitting at a piano for the first time while small and then gradually growing and not resetting one's idea of a best distance.)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In terms of standard height: A Steinway large grand piano I believe is 28 1/8\" ( 71,5 cm )",
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"text": "high from the floor to the top of the white keys.",
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"text": "You could call that a standard.",
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"text": "The hight varies for different makers, and pianos, with over an inch higher and lower than that.",
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"text": "(My Yamaha upright piano is 28 3/8\" [72 cm].)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/2245/Ulf Åkerstedt",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are rules for good ergonomics and placing the least amount of stress on your body when you play.",
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"text": "Google the Alexander Technique for one approach.",
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"text": "Then there are many pianists who never cared about posture.",
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"text": "Two examples (coming from rather opposite approaches to piano-playing) are the world-famous acoustic pianists Glenn Gould and Keith Jarret, who threw all the rules out of the window and spent their careers making amazing music played with horribly bad, stressful posture.",
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"text": "In other words, when you get right down to it, there are no rules.",
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"text": "Do what feels best for your body.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Classic grand and baby grand is 28-29 inches.",
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"text": "Period.",
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{
"text": "Answer made!",
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"text": "I measured 30 pianos from eight manufacturers and nearly all were inside this range.",
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"text": "This is without wheel stands or any other such things.",
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"text": "This is floor to top of white keys when on the standard legs.",
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"text": "I would build your desk for the lower dimension as it is much more comfortable for a tall person to stoop a bit and play low than for a child or small person to scrunch taller and lift their shoulders to play.",
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"text": "I have a wide variety of folks who record in our studio and white keys at 28 inches is comfy for most all of them.",
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{
"text": "We have our keyboards on pull out rack shelves and this works very well.",
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"text": "Out of the way when not needed and easy to deploy when we want it.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/18869/Levi Nilsson",
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"sents": [
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"text": "For best ergonomics, I was always taught that my forearms should be parallel with the floor, with the fingers resting comfortably on top of the piano keys - so, the arms should be a little above the level of the keys, not reaching up or reaching down.",
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"text": "I'd adjust the piano so that the correct piano-playing posture (seated on edge of seat, heel on floor to control pedal) is most comfortable.",
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"text": "More detail here: http://www.wellbalancedpianist.com/bpseatingguide.htm",
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"text": "As a son of a pianist who taught as well as giving performances, I learned that it is the stool that matters for adjusting access to the keyboard, but the original question asks about the key height.",
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"text": "This is not yet well-answered, and it does matter, for the simple reason that a piano is not exactly portable, and cannot be adjusted at will like the stool!",
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"text": "For installing a keyboard the height is important because it is the one constant reference to the floor by which all other adjustments are themselves referred.",
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"text": "If someone with access to a room full of pianos could measure and quote several specific examples then this question will be properly answered.",
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"text": "Another important measurement that should also be taken in each context is the height of the underside of the keybed above the ground below, because no matter how you adjust the stool, a critical and unadjustable distance is the space available for legroom when using the pedals!",
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"text": "Some pianos (and especially electronic actions) may have widely varied thickness of keybed from underside to key tops.",
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"text": "This detail is more important than the key-to-floor height alone, because there may be nothing you can do to change it, so it governs all the other adjustments to be made, such as stool height and setback from the front edges of the keys.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I don't think that there is a 'standard' height, rather there's a mean/average.",
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"text": "For the 'average' stature pianist this is OK (although people are taller now than they were when the 'norm' height range was developed back in 18/19th centuries.",
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{
"text": "And this is why I have an interest in this subject.",
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"text": "I'm tall (6'4\") and can't get my legs under an 'average' height keybed.",
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"text": "I need at least 68cm or ideally 70cm from floor to underside of the keybed.",
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{
"text": "I've been trying to find some oddball upright with this unusual dimension for some time.",
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"text": "They do exist, but they're rare.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/37021/Christopher Clark",
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"sents": [
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"text": "No specific standard height exists for electric pianos is best because people ce in different sizes!",
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"text": "Would you expect Shaq to play at the same piano height as Danny Devito?",
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"text": "It depends on how long your legs are—are they comfortable reaching your pedal?",
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{
"text": "If not you need to first adjust your sitting height.",
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"text": "This differs person to person, and pedal to pedal (they're also not all the same).",
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"text": "After this, adjust your piano height",
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"text": "so you're not playing like you're reaching for for the ants",
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"text": "or so you're not playing like it's set on top of the refrigerator.",
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"text": "I agree parallel is not best because movement should start at shoulder and work its way to the fingers.",
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"text": "Your fingers and forearms will tire if at parallel because you're not using all the muscles you need to use to play.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "My table for Yamaha keyboard PSR550 is 75cm high and the bench is 55cm high.",
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"text": "When seated the arms will be parallel to the floor.",
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{
"text": "When the table is 70cm then the bench should be 50cm.",
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{
"text": "Try it",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/23744/R M NGENDA",
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}
}
] | {
"question": "When installing a digital piano, I have the freedom of vertically placing the entire piano at any height I want. But, I want to know what the ideal (preferred) height is. Is there a standard height?",
"title": "How high from the ground should the keyboard from a piano be?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<piano><digital-piano>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/3959",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1190/Kriem"
} | 33_3 | [
[
"No specific standard height exists for electric pianos because people are in different sizes! For best ergonomics, your forearms should be parallel with the floor, with the fingers resting comfortably on top of the piano keys - so, the arms should be a little above the level of the keys, not reaching up or reaching down. You should do what feels best for your body.",
"There is no standard height that a piano should be at and you should aim for a height that feels comfortable. There is also no agreement about whether your forearms should be parallel or not to the floor."
]
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"There is no standard height for a piano and you should aim for a height that feels the most comfortable for your body.",
"There is disagreement about whether your forearms should be parallel or not to the floor."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "My job involves helping my boss film academic talks and presentations.",
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"text": "This involves ensuring that our cameras and wireless mics and whatnot do not die.",
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"text": "Our rationale is that the potential cost of having batteries of an unknown age run out during a recording is greater than the cost of just replacing them every time we shoot.",
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"text": "I personally tend to use the mountains of half-used batteries to power my remote controls, alarm clocks, and RC helicopters afterwards.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/110/Babu",
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"sents": [
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"text": "For anything that can be powered directly (stomp boxes), do that.",
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"text": "There are power strips that will lock down your transformer bricks, and also breakout boxes that will provide you directly with a number of DC terminals.",
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"text": "Wireless mic battery packs should be replaced for each performance.",
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"text": "Unless you're only performing for a small group of people and the space is intimate enough to offset needing to take time to change a battery pack, you're going to want to avoid that kind of disruption at all costs.",
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"text": "And yes, this means that in, say, a musical production with 15 wireless mics and four performances (plus two dress rehearsals), I'd budget for 60 batteries (Duracell) plus 30 for dress rehearsals (store brand for these).",
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"text": "What you do with them afterwards is up to you, just don't chuck them in the trash--find out how to recycle or dispose of them properly if you can't give them away to be used.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/133/NReilingh",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When I was performing I used a power adapter for my stomp boxes.",
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"text": "There are splitter cables for connecting the stomp boxes out there.",
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"text": "For example: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Dunlop-DC-Brick-Multi-Power-Supply-105495402-i1124423.gc#",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/924/DimebagFan ",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "For floor hardware, use transformers wherever possible.",
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"text": "Just use batteries in mobile kit, and always use brand new batteries for a live gig.",
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"text": "Those ones you take out can be used in rehearsals or the studio until they die.",
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"text": "Keep a battery case in your gig bag - for 9v batteries",
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"text": "you don't want them discharging against each other or against sensitive kit",
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"text": "so a case will hold them safely and insulated from anything else.",
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"text": "New batteries stay in their packaging until use.",
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"text": "Used batteries stay in the battery case until discharged, then delivered to recycling.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/104/Doktor Mayhem",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As others have said, use transformers wherever possible.",
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"text": "When batteries are unavoidable, use rechargables and recharge them fully for each show.",
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"text": "With one recharge cycle per week, common NiMH batteries last about 3 years before their capacity degrades so much they won't last for 2 hours (down from ~4 hours in the same application).",
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"text": "Recently I've started using NiZn batteries for our wireless mic transmitters.",
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"text": "These are brilliant: more than 8 hours on a charge.",
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{
"text": "They produce 1.6 V rather than the 1.2 V of NiMH cells",
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"text": "so you don't get problems with devices that want more than 1.2 V.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/45457/Hobbes",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Many musicians use battery-powered \"stomp boxes\" and wireless microphones. When do you change the batteries? You can't have a device running out of power halfway through the show. Do people put in fresh batteries for each show and give away the half-used ones?",
"title": "Managing batteries for live performances",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<performing><electronics>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/3995",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/113/Mark Lutton"
} | 33_4 | [
[
"For performances, you should use direct power as much as possible. Mic batteries should be replaced after every performance.",
"It's generally agreed that the best routine is to replace batteries with fresh ones before every show."
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"It's generally agreed that the best routine is to replace batteries with fresh ones before every show."
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] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "First, I agree with the question, when talking about nylon-stringed guitars - in nearly a half-century of playing classical and flamenco instruments, I find that the D string, the poor thing, breaking more frequently than any the others (other answers and comments are probably based on steel-stringed experience).",
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"text": "I've asked luthiers, and even one of the D'Addario sons :-)",
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"text": "about this, and there are a number of causes (besides flaws in the guitar itself): The D is a wrapped string, and more likely to break than a solid string",
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"text": "It has thinner wire than the other two bass strings",
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"text": "It is under the highest tension of the three bass strings",
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"text": "It gets more wear than the other three (think about melodies you've played on that string",
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"text": "- it's the brass section of the guitar).",
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"text": "Of course, replacing your basses frequently will usually save you the embarrassment of changing strings on stage",
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"text": "(I had to do it twice with a D string recently, because I botched the first stringing job -",
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"text": "oh well).",
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"text": "The goal is to keep them from breaking, until they finally \"wear out\" - the basses start to sound like rubber bands.",
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"text": "So what can you do about that?",
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"text": "As I said, change the basses before one breaks.",
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"text": "Besides the sound going bad, look for the finish wearing off.",
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"text": "And here's a trick - if you take them off before they get really worn, you can put them back on again later, and they will not only sound great for a short while, but because they are \"pre-stretched\", they will settle in tune much more quickly.",
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"text": "It's very helpful to have a \"rested\" set of basses like this to put on just before a gig (or, gulp, during one...).",
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"text": "Make sure that the loop at the bridge is as close as possible to the wood - look at the bass strings in the picture below, note how snug against the wood the loop is.",
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"text": "Push it back and down with your nail as you tighten the new string.",
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"text": "If you leave it floating half-way between the wood and the ivory, it is putting a lot of pressure on the middle of that short stretch of string, essentially trying to cut it in half.",
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"text": "My D's would often break right there, until the luthier/engineer John Gilbert told me what's what.",
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"text": "If the D string still tends to break at that spot before it wears out - perhaps because of the construction of the bridge, or because you are using very high tension basses - you can do what I do on a particular instrument, and protect the D string with a very short piece of narrow rubber tubing that can cover the D between the wood and the ivory - the loop cuts into the rubber, but not the string.",
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"text": "And where does one find such a thing?",
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"text": "Why, strip the insulation off some wiring that's slightly thicker than your D!",
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"text": "Good luck, and may your bass strings always maintain their composure when you are playing for people...",
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"sents": [
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"text": "IMO frequently broken strings indicate a mechanical problem.",
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"text": "I never break strings",
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"text": "and I haven'tt broken one for maybe 30 years.",
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"text": "Causes include: Too-sharp edge on nut or saddle.",
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"text": "burr or sharp edge on a tuning post, or the hole though same.",
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"text": "Nut slots cut too wide (or maybe you installed lighter strings) allowing the string too much side-to-side movement.",
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"text": "etc, etc",
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{
"text": "...",
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"text": "Of course, if you really flail away at the strings while strumming...",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/549/M. Werner",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "From m practice, This is definitely true for nylon strings and this happens because of structure of D-string.",
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"text": "The first 3 (E,B,G) are solid, and next 3 (D,A,E) consist of thin nylon fibers wrapped around one more think string.",
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"text": "For the D-string the number of fibers is much less then for A and E (because it needs to vibrate in certain range) and this makes it the weakest.",
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"text": "When I would buy strings, I'd always buy couple of spare D-strings...",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1362/Michinio",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "How often is \"often\"?",
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"text": "If you find that your D string is breaking a lot, there could be an issue with the guitar.",
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"text": "Does it break near the tuning post?",
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"text": "If so, there could be an issue with the nut slot.",
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"text": "If it is near the bridge, it could be something in that area - something sharp that is compromising the integrity of the string.",
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"text": "I think most guitarists would say the 1st and 2nd strings are the most common strings to break in the course of regular playing.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/944/vjones",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A couple of things could be at issue.",
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"text": "Since it's always the same string, my guess is that there's some tiny discontinuity at either the nut or the bridge (whereever it's breaking)",
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"text": "where the string is snagging (unless it's a \"locking\" system, the string should slide freely).",
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"text": "Fix:",
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"text": "Whenever you change a string, take a pencil and scribble all over the path of the string (at the nut, bridge, and tuning post.",
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"text": "NOT the fretboard or the top!).",
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"text": "The graphite will work like a permanent lubricant.",
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"text": "Tuning issues.",
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"text": "It may not seem relevant, but have you ever taken a steel spoon at school or camp and bent it back and forth until you can snap the head off?",
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"text": "Little mistreatments of the strings can add up quickly.",
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"text": "Always tune up into the note.",
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"text": "So if you're tuning the D string to a tempered fourth above the A string, tke it to a perfect fourth and nudge up for the temper.",
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"text": "But to tune the low E to a tempered fourth below the A string, you need to scoop in from D# and stop short of perfect, obtaining the temper by \"subtractive geometry\".",
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"text": "Always tune to the same pitch standard.",
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"text": "If your friends use A-440, use A-440.",
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"text": "But if you also want to play regularly with your friend's A-435 piano, you really need a second guitar for that.",
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"text": "The strings won't know where their \"home\" is.",
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"text": "One more thing.",
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"text": "There could be something in the atmosphere that interacts badly with the metal of the string.",
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"text": "Trying a different metal (bronze, steel, nickel) or a different alloy (the ratio of metals) might help.",
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] | {
"question": "Well... that's about it. D strings (on acoustic nylon guitars at least) break way more often than the others.I guess there's a physical explanation but I wasn't able to found anything on the Internet. Do you guys know why this happens?",
"title": "Why does the D string in a guitar breaks so often?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<strings><acoustic-guitar>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/4080",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/27/Nacho"
} | 33_5 | [
[
"The D string may break more frequently because it has thinner wire the the other bass strings and it is under the highest tension. However, frequent breaks may signal a problem with the guitar, such as something sharp in the bridge area or a mechanical problem. Moreover, something in the atmosphere could be reacting badly with the string metal.",
"There are a number of potential reasons by the D string might break more often on a guitar. Firstly, the D string has a thinner wire than the other two bass strings, and secondly, it is more tense than the other two bass strings. However, if it is breaking frequently, this could indicate a mechancial problem with the guitar."
]
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"The D string has a thinner wire than the other two bass strings on a guitar.",
"The D string is the most tense of the three bass strings on a guitar.",
"There could be a mechanical problem with the guitar."
]
] |
[
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"text": "I bought my son a 3/4 scale guitar with nylon strings when he was 5 or 6.",
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"text": "That gave him enough interest to start learning, then I let him use one of my cheap full scale acoustics with steel strings at age 8 as his hands were big enough.",
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"text": "Currently he has taken up bass, so he is learning on a 5 string that my bass player had spare.",
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"text": "It is a challenge as he is only 11, but he is gaining hand strength and stretch.",
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"text": "The core for me at the start was letting him enjoy what he was doing, so nylon strings meant it didn't hurt his fingers.",
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"text": "Once he had decided he wanted to learn, he was mentally in a place where toughening his fingers up on steel strings wasn't an issue.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I started playing guitar at about 7 years old, I got a classical guitar, slightly smaller than the common size -but very slightly (I think it was larger that the '3/4 size', I actually played until I was 20!).",
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"text": "The important thing for a child, I'd say, is that the guitar is confortable to play: rather low action and normal-to-low tension strings.",
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"text": "Nylon, of course.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Consider a ukulele.",
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"text": "\"Real\" ukuleles are available cheaply (although you can spend a lot on a really lovely one).",
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"text": "It suits small hands.",
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"text": "It has nylon strings",
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"text": "so it's not too difficult to fret.",
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"text": "There are plenty of resources for learning real songs to play on the uke.",
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"text": "Having fewer strings makes for easier chord shapes.",
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"text": "It's a great instrument on which a child can learn the basics of fretting, strumming and plucking without having to deal with a large instrument.",
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"text": "One down side is that if he migrates to a guitar, he'll have to learn new shapes, to account for the extra two strings.",
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"text": "But to mitigate that, being adaptable to new tunings is a good skill -- and young minds adapt quickly.",
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"text": "And of course, he could choose to stay with the uke... or the mandolin... or the banjo... or any number of other guitar-like instruments.",
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"text": "If you do this, do get a uke book (or learn uke yourself, and teach him).",
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"text": "The high-tuned bottom string is counter-intuitive, so he'll need reassurance -- or with the right strings you can tune it low",
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"text": "so it feels more like a guitar.",
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"text": "Whether you go for a guitar, a uke, or something else, make sure the instrument has acceptable intonation.",
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"text": "Playing an instrument with bad intonation is really no fun whatever your standard.",
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"text": "If you do go for a steel strung instrument, pay special attention to the action and the string tension.",
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"text": "You don't want to put him off by giving him an instrument that's a struggle to fret.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'm not (really) a guitar player, but I have taught beginners as part of a generalist music-lesson gig.",
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"text": "The other answers so far are good, but I would add two essential things from my own experience: The fretboard needs to be in tune.",
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"text": "Otherwise, the instrument is going to sound really bad.",
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"text": "If you're not sure, tune any string with an electronic chromatic tuner, then play the same string on each fret individually and notice what the tuner says.",
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"text": "If the guitar gets way off pitch, quickly, stay away.",
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"text": "It needs to be possible to set up the guitar so that the open strings (or strings when pressed down) do not arbitrarily buzz against frets.",
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"text": "Trying the exercise from item #1 on all the strings and noticing if there is any buzz (that comes from something other than improper finger placement) is a good way to check for this, since there is no guarantee that the frets are the same height all the way across the fretboard.",
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"text": "I remember teaching a very young student who clearly had a \"toy\" guitar, and these two issues made it almost impossible to teach her.",
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"text": "It was frustrating for the student and for me, and the student never really improved very much.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/15/Andrew",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I agree on quality.",
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"text": "You wouldn't want to give a child a pre-war Martin unless you're crazy and rich or he's Chris Thile in the making, but you wouldn't want to give something that pretended to be an instrument, either.",
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"text": "Smaller, but not too small, or else",
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"text": "the child will rightfully think it's just a toy.",
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"text": "Two crucial things to note: If the child is interested in playing electric, no acoustic guitar will do, and if the child is interested in playing acoustic, no electric guitar will do.",
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"text": "And your child, as with anyone who hasn't been taught to know better, will not know how hard to fret, and will thus oversqueeze, hurting fingertips (which makes playing uncomfortable) and pulling sharp (which makes the sound uncomfortable).",
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"text": "Early on, teach a light touch, and this will make the rest of the process easier.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/195/Dave Jacoby",
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"sents": [
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"text": "This is around the same age I started playing guitar.",
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"text": "The guitar I started on was my dads first guitar which was from the early 60s, it was a catalog guitar nothing fancy.",
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"text": "For strings, since I had an electric I had light gauge steel strings..",
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"text": "The way I got hooked was just by listening to the music my dad liked, which is the same music I like now and then..",
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"text": "I wanted to be able to play that music that I heard.",
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"text": "Just don't force it on him, thats is what killed it for me for about a year, yes try to get him to practice but make it fun not stern and dull, make achievements for him where he could get some sort of reward related to guitar .. like a strap that he saw that he liked, or something simple like that Hope this can be of some help for you.",
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"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/2426/Joe W",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I would go against buying a toy guitar.",
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"text": "This really kills everything from the start.",
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"text": "Rather paying a little extra might pay a lot in the long run.",
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"text": "For the guitar priority one should be, going for something that suits his body shape.",
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"text": "Something he is comfortable with it.",
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"text": "Also go for steel string not Nylon!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/158/Quazi Irfan",
"score": 0
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}
] | {
"question": "We are looking for a guitar for my son, and have seen cheap ones at Toys R Us, et al. He is just starting out, and we are trying to gauge his interest before spending too much. Would it be worth starting off with what is essentially a toy, and upgrading later? If not, what things should we look for? Nylon or steel strings? What size? 30\", 1/2, 3/4? Is there anything else that would help him use the instrument?",
"title": "What qualities of a guitar should I seek for an 8 year old?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<guitar><children>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/4821",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1610/Don"
} | 33_8 | [
[
"For a child's first guitar a smaller size of a real guitar is a better option than a toy. It should be comfortable for the child to play and have nylon rather than metal strings. ",
"The answer to this question will be subjective, but you should probably avoid getting a 'toy' guitar. The most important thing will be that it is an appropriate size for your son and that it is reasonable enough quality to play without going out of tune too easily. There is no clear answer as to whether nylon strings are the best choice or not."
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"The most important thing will be that the guitar is a suitable size for your son.",
"Quality is important, and the guitar should sound correct and not go out of tune too quickly.",
"There is no clear answer as to whether nylon strings are a good choice or not.",
"You should probably avoid getting a toy guitar."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "It all depends on which gauge string you are playing in standard tuning.",
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"text": "Think of each half-step of down tuning a gauge.",
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"text": "For example, I play in standard with 10 gauge string set.",
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"text": "If I drop down to e flat, 1 half step, they will feel like 9 gauge, so I use a 11 gauge set for my guitar",
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"text": "I have set up for e flat tuning.",
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"text": "For 2 whole step (C tuning), I would pick 14 gauge, as it will feel like 10 gauge but in drop C tuning (down 2 whole steps).",
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"text": "Most stuff is in C tuning with the low string dropped down another step, like Drop D but down 2 whole steps.",
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"text": "This keeps the guitar string tension close to what you are used to, as there is nothing worse than playing with 10 gauges, then all of a sudden dropping it down a step and boom...",
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"text": "you feel like it's rubber bands (8 gauges).",
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"text": "If you are going to always be playing with the low string dropped more than the others, like Drop B flat, you may want to get the low string in the next heavier gauge.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "When I discovered Open F (C F C F A C), I hunted for strings until I found a set called George Benson Signature from Thomastik.",
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"text": "I use the flats (.014 .018 .021w .031",
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"text": ".041",
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"text": ".055), but they have roundwounds, too.",
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"text": "14s are the biggest strings I've found that are still packaged as a regular set; beyond that, you're in custom-set experimentation land.",
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"text": "You'll need a BIG string for that low C: probably a .053 or even .055.",
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"text": "But you can go a little lighter on top, if you want (14 is pretty extreme for D, I think).",
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"text": "I used slinky strings called not even slinky.",
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"text": "Those are what I used when I dropped tuned my guitar to that level",
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"text": "String manufacturers publish tables showing gauge/tension/pitch.",
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"text": "See:",
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"text": "How do I use string gauge tables?",
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"text": "First, decide what tension you want your strings to be at.",
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"text": "Do that by looking up the tension of your preferred strings at standard tuning.",
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"text": "Then, for each string, find the string gauge that gives the pitch you want at close to that tension.",
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"text": "Armed with that information, you can either: Just buy the strings",
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"text": "individually Find a pre-packaged set that's close enough",
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"text": "Find a pre-packaged set that you can augment with individual strings",
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"text": "Ive played, drop C and standard C for years and 11 to 50 or 52 is plenty good.",
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"text": "You don't want to tight to loose the break up but not too loose to where it sounds muddy.",
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"text": "11s are the way to go bro.",
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"text": "I'd like to notice that all dropped tunings require the last string to be thick enough.",
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"text": "This is important because string manufacturers usually don't consider the last string to be dropped, so its tension is likely to be insufficient.",
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"text": "Personally, I'd prefer 11-56 or 58 for Drop C. Also, you can use string tension applet to get some solid numbers and to find out how string gauges and tuning affect the tension.",
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"text": "Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky are the way for C,perfect.",
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"text": "A geezer recomended em to me and there the best strings Ive ever had,wish they did acoustic version.",
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] | {
"question": "What are the optimal gauges of strings for Drop C tuning (C G C F A D) for electric guitar? Since this involves lowering the pitch of all the strings, heavier string gauges would be helpful; I need to to know how to select the proper ones.",
"title": "What are the optimal string gauges for drop C tuning on electric guitar?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<electric-guitar><strings>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/5315",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1853/Mayhem"
} | 33_9 | [
[
"The optimal string gauges recommended for drop C tuning on an electric guitar are 11-56 and 58. Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky are recommended too. Moreover, string manufacturers publish tables showing gauge/tension/pitch.",
"The answer to this question will depend on what gauge strings you use for normal tuning. However, for the low C string, you may want to consider between a .053 and .058 string, and Ernie Ball Not-Even Slinky or Beefy Slinky might be suitable. Additionally, there are tools available to help you work out the most appropriate gauge for different tunings."
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"The answer to this question will depend on what gauge strings you use in normal tuning.",
"There are tables and tools available to help you work out the most appropriate gauges for different tunings.",
"For the low C string, you might want to consider between .053 and .058.",
"Ernie Ball Not-even Slinky or Beefy Slinky might be appropriate sets."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "The notes",
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"text": "C, E and G played together are always a C major chord.",
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"text": "A C major chord is always the notes C, E and G. Fret that shape on a guitar, and it's always C Major.",
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"text": "When you play in a different key, C major's role changes.",
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"text": "If you're playing in the key of C major, then C major is the root chord - the I .",
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"text": "F is the fourth chord ( IV ) and G is the fifth chord ( V ).",
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"text": "Lots of simple songs are based on I,IV and V, so you may recognise that set of chords.",
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"text": "If you play in the key of G major, then I is G major, IV is C major, V is D major.",
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"text": "So, in the key of G when you see \"C\" on the song sheet, you fret the same shape, and play the same notes as you did when you saw \"C\" in a song in the key of C.",
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"text": "But this time the C is playing a different role.",
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"text": "It \"feels\" different; the listener is waiting for you to return to root chord, G. Look through your songbooks and see if you can spot I,IV and V in other keys.",
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"text": "Beginner guitar books tend to use the keys C, G, E, D, A. Edit to add: Here's an analogy.",
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"text": "Think of your C major chord as a circle.",
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"text": "It doesn't matter where you draw a circle; you always draw it the same way.",
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"text": "Seen on its own, it just looks like a circle.",
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"text": "A C major chord just sounds like a C major chord.",
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"text": "The rest of the piece you're playing defines what that C major chord \"does\".",
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"text": "The key of the piece is a fundamental part of that.",
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"text": "Because of the other lines drawn around the circle, it becomes the sun, or a football, or a planet, or a head, or a compact disk, or whatever the artist chooses.",
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"text": "In the same way, the other notes you play around your C chord, make it take on different purposes in the music.",
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"text": "A C Major chord always contains the same notes (C, E, G), as a major chord is a triad including a root (C), a major third over the root (E), and a perfect fifth over the root(G).",
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"text": "These notes can be rearranged in any order or voicing, but they will still be C, E, and G. If you were playing in a different key, such as D major, there is no diatonic C chord.",
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"text": "There is, however, a C#-dim.",
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"text": "Regardless of which key you are playing, in general if someone says to play a C chord, they will mean C major.",
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"text": "Nothing changes.",
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"text": "C-major is always C-major (do-mi-sol) without regard to key.",
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"text": "The only thing that could change is position where chord would be more comfortable to play in certain key.",
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"text": "In well-tempered tuning, a c is a c and an e is an e and a g is a g , regardless of what key you're playing in.",
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"text": "So, guitar (normally) being restricted to well-tempered tuning, there is no way a C major chord could be intrinsically any different in different keys.",
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"text": "Of course there are different voicings in which you can play the chord, the most common being (in tabulature)",
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{
"text": "e│────0───3───3───8───8───12── b",
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"text": "│────1───1───5───5───8───13── g",
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"text": "│────0───0───5───5───9───12── d",
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"text": "│────2───2───5───5───10──10──",
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"text": "A",
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"text": "│────3───3───3───7───10──x───",
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"text": "E│───",
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"text": "─x──",
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"text": "─x──",
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"text": "─x─── but the choice among these mostly has to do with sound and playing comfort, not with a song's key.",
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"text": "This doesn't hold for all tunings, but as far as guitar and common western music is concerned you shouldn't ever need to worry about that.",
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"text": "The Major chord is based on the 1-3-5 of the major scale.",
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"text": "D Major scale has D as 1, F# as 3, and A as 5, so D Major chord will always be (D,F#,A) played in combination anywhere on the fret board regardless of key!",
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"text": "I just figured this out myself, so yay!!!",
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"text": "Same applies to any Major chord.",
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"text": "C Major is (C,E,G) always etc...",
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"text": "To make a chord minor, just flat the third, so Dm is (D,F,A) and Cm is (C,Eb,G).",
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"text": "The key only shows which chords fit and where they fit, but doesn't change the chord itself.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The only thing I'd add to these answers would be that while no, the key of a song doesn't change the chords, the key you're playing in might force one to play with a capo or a nonstandard tuning.",
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"text": "In those cases, the notes to make a C major are the same, but the shapes of the chords may be forced to change.",
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] | {
"question": "Typically, the \"C\" is played like this in the key of C: But when I play another song, in the key of D, is the C chord still played like this? If not, how do I play it on the guitar? Likewise, if the song is in the key of G, how does it change, and is there a pattern to follow? Thanks.",
"title": "Does the C chord change based on what key it's in?",
"forum": "music.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<guitar><chords><chord-theory><key>",
"link": "music.stackexchange.com/questions/5456",
"author": "music.stackexchange.com/users/1664/Ted Wong"
} | 33_10 | [
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"The C chord does not change according to the key. The only thing that could change is position where chord would be more comfortable to play in certain key.",
"Chords will stay the same regardless of which key they are played in."
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